I enjoyed this very much and without moaning about price once again I think I couldn't get on board enough with this fragrance to justify the pricetag. I found this to be one of the bolder, more standout in the City collection, probably just due to the nature of Tobacco...really? Being all rich, dark and satisfying. Do they bear a resemblance to the city's they are based on? Is Miami Tobacco because of the strong Cuban links? or am I over thinking things? Anyway it has a lovely boozy, opening, lightly smokey feel into a deep tobacco accord, with patchouli, and gentle spices, which smells to me authentic and well judged.
I was excited for this. I'm a huge fan of blushed, chic, little, pretty musk fragrances like this. The warm, clean cotton-like effect of musk mallow is right up my street and I tried this on a day I purchased Mugler Over the musk. Not to mention a great perfumer at the helm this one was set to knock it out of the park. Frankly I feel like one of those Millionaire twats on Dragon's den looking at a potentially attractive business proposition but as the pitch from the nervy entrepreneur wears on the whole thing starts to fall apart! then when we get to the figures??? Wow! It really becomes un-investable. I couldn't smell it on the strip really...at all...like Iso E Super it was barely there but I got a light musky, fruity sweet smell....but I had to strain to get anything! On skin it opens up but isn't quite like the poofy, warmth I'd envisaged, more clinical and modern, synthetic feeling. Now it would be interesting to see if there's real musk mallow in this having made that statement? It's very nice, sits close to the skin and the fact that it doesn't resemble what I expect from an ambrette fragrance or an accord made from ambrettolide, just works in it's favour, making me more likely to add it to the collection. Aside from one fact... The city exclusives are in excess of £360 in the UK. I mean...seriously Le Labo? I know hipsters often have a few quid and will splash for the sake of fashion and trends but even they'd think you were taking the piss a bit with this one.
Have I entered a parallel universe? Is this fragrance going to dramatically transform on contact with my skin and become this gross abomination that pretty much every review here agrees that it is? Now this is hasty and premature of me to offer a proper review without doing so, spraying it on a card as I have done. Let me go massively against the grain here and say that this is reminiscent of Christian Dior Fahrenheit but with drier more overt IES tones and parched ionones which mutate into a modern leather and faint diesel fume accord. This is par for the Durga course for me, uncompromising yet trendy and modern. I get the tartness of rhubarb in the opening and I think that pairs well with violet. I will update this review when I’ve warn this one but I thought it was pretty good, not earth shattering, but not quite derivative either.
This fragrance is DREAMY. Everything from this house is of the highest quality and perfect concepts everytime, from the three I've tried I'm enamoured by all of them. Oriental Velours is probably the most accurately myrrh based fragrance you will find. If you love the raw material then this will excite you. If you love a warm, oriental cuddle of a scent...this will excite you. If you want a smooth musky scent, this one will engage you. I thought it was brilliant. It's not you're usual balsamic either but has nods towards classic oriental perfumes without feeling at all derivative, musk and vanilla/amber sweetness are evoked in the opening before drying down to a more medicinal, herbal myrrh note which is perfectly balanced so it doesn't become too dominant (quite hard when trying to make it stand out but not dominate.) I love this but I think I preferred Musc des Sables for my collection but I'd defintely consider this in future for sure.
I don't understand how I'm capable of loving such an austere piece of understatement, a modern, transparent, white flower 'thing'which could just as easily be dismissed as cheap and throwaway but it's actually fantastic. This is often what I imagine a lilly to smell like a watery, white floral, muguet when in reality they have more in common with musc ravageur than this. (to me anyway) La Lune is basically an uber light tuberose and that's what makes it so compelling...I don't need to be bludgeoned over the head with a waxy, bubblegum tuberose all the time. This tickles my white floral pickle just the right amount. Coupled with the fact I think this fragrance is woody and lightly powdered after that cool, green opening. La Lune evokes some of the 'night blooming' vibe of dewy, cool, wetness, but also a pale, translucent moon, visible during the day. When dried down the effect is anything but cheap for me a delicate violet/iris/synthetic orris sweetness emerges but doesn't dominate. It seems like a very weak, watery EDC (as do many of this line) but I've found it lasts really well. It's now a mildly soapy, shampoo like affair which would normally repel me, but I love this fragrance. It's a wearable not overly feminine, floral fragrance that I'm thoroughly enjoying. 'Dans la Lune' or 'Moonstruck' (which is a great word) is a french phrase for being absent minded or 'having your head in the clouds.' and I completely get why. It might be cheap and cheerful but I think it also has more substance to it than I perhaps might've given it credit for on first sniff. Compared to other 'white flower' fragrances like the new Chanel Gabrielle EDP for example, this is infinitely more appealing and wearable to me.
This stuff has all the tropical, exoticism of Ylang but with a Guerlain type restraint not being as carnal or OTT, or "YAS QWEEN" as some Ylan ylang perfumes. Don't think that this stuff is a slouch or doesn't hit you in the face in the opening with a candy, banana/pineapple, waxy, super femme flowery vibe... because totally does. However, as I mentioned it's tempered and just gets nicer and nicer as it dries down displaying more powdery, deep, Wasser genius. Now I tend to like Ylang when it's coupled with jasmine or it's with bigger more amber bases just because they tend to warm up and seem less flowery on me. This one has somewhat of that aspect but really it's quite light and cheerful but without lacking substance. I'm surprised how wearable I found it, however it's still not for me to wear but I still give it the highest praise and If you like Guerlain and exotic florals this might just be the holy grail for you? If I smelled this on a woman, I'd find it very classy and alluring...whatever that is worth? Update: 06/09/21 I can't get this perfume out of my head. It's stayed with me and that is pretty rare. I actually rate this as one of the best in this art and materials line, that's really saying something too because it's a really fine line of perfumes, with many classics. It's FANTASTIC! I might have to shell out the big bucks you know? For a YLANG perfume??? WTF??? Not my usual cup o tea, I need to try it again to make absolutely certain but I found it an exquisite, light, summery fragrance but with depth and a hint of warmth. Lovely stuff.
Wow! I hadn't revisited this line in some time and I don't even think this wasn't even released the last time I did? Neroli and I have a strange love/hate thing going on but I'm increasingly a lover of all things neroli and orange blossom. This is ultimately about three vital elements and I don't need any list of notes or ingredients to tell me that Tea, Neroli, and petitgrain feature in this beautiful perfume. A long lasting vaguely metallic, smoky tea note, is what the dry down leaves you with but the opening has that green element I love about authentic and well judged neroli perfumes (I adored Abel's Golden Neroli for this) coupled with the unmistakable, substantive citrus smell of petitgrain. Now I associate this line with having the same vanilla theme running through them and although not overt and perhaps imagined? I detect the rounding effect and smoothness associated with it rather than overt sweetness or anything. This is sublime perfume and really prominent with tea after several hours. I thought it was inspired and a welcome break from the Neroli portofino, soapy type Neroli's this is just in a whole other class of it's own.
This is an unusual fragrance in that the Powdery ionones are cold and green, almost geranium or rose like, the violet sweetness only just rears it's head as it settles right in. There's clearly a clean, musky oud at the back of that maleki variety, (AdP Calonia Oud or Guerlain Santal Royal) but dialled right back again. It's a interesting oud but I don't like it and I'd never choose to wear it. Update: I thought to myself what a bizarre old review this is, but it's only from last year. Can't believe I thought this was 'oud-like' in the vain of a Colonia or Santal or Oud Maleki because it really isn't upon wearing it today. It's more of a rough sawn, sandalwood joss stick with some pot pouri and a definite nutmeg note. I don't mean any of these things is a bad way, It's a very appealing fragrance and not as piercing or odd as the oud dominated comparisons I made first time around, in fact oud and synth oud purists would be annoyed that it's got oud in the title. Re:Update: I was thinking what does this remind me of? I'm really not sure? Then it hit me, and it's only a very mild association, Tom Ford's Noir for men which is a fantastic, dark complex fragrance and this is not that at all nor is it as round and smooth as Noir.
The general feeling here is that this is a pretty good release, I found it really hard to make my mind up. It's got nods back to the nineties with a feeling that there's been a modernisation or freshening up of the format, little twists which make this recognisably 'new' It reminds me of the original Eternity's lavender soap vibes (a little) but with Paco Rabanne XS and Tommy Boy (maybe the apple note?) but there's this nubuck suede accord in there too, it's a complex aromatic/fougere opening that's for sure. What I like about this is the 'aftershave' masculinity of it, it's not trying to be anything special and as such I have a tender spot for it...but is it 'good'?? Nah!Not really...I much prefer the sharper, fresher more consistent vibes of Paco's XS. Also the campaign posters feature Jake Gyllenhal who I think is a very talented actor and a comes over in interviews as a seemingly, likeable, humble sort of character...but conversely fashion conscious and doesn't half love to shift units for 'the man'! I'm not saying this shows a lack of integrity I mean good luck to him it's easy work I imagine?
I like this. A fragrance buddy sent a sample of this to me and he was raving about how great it is. I don't quite share that enthusiasm but do you know what? It's decent. Everything I've tried from Yves Rocher is really competent and reasonably priced. This doesn't make my heart sing but it delivers a cozy warming winter fragrance which has a coumarin heavy vibe without being soupy or overly cloying. There's a light vanillic hay after an opening which is pretty complex mixture of the resinous and what can only be described as a designer like citrus accord. Lasts well but doesn't have any shocking, next level "OMG I can't believe this is available at this price point???" moments.
This is a prime example of the kind of fragrance that wowed me off the bat, but I doubt I'd ever enjoy wearing it. Actually no...it didn't. (wow me that is) I tried it in store ages ago and it never really floated my boat. However upon revisiting I have to say that the opening is spectacular because you get that rum soaked wood effect, a kind of gourmand smokiness too. You can tell the cacao is there from the get go but it grows and grows as the rum dies away making for a very unique smelling fragrance. 'Unique' doesn't always equal good and I find this unwearable as the cacao and vanilla take hold, the bitter element with the sweetness is incredibly well judged I have to say, but it's cloying for a different reason. An unusual cloy. The vanilla facets with booze is just a classic combo and I can see why people who like this will adore it. I just don't myself. It settles to skin quickly but you do get wafts and it does last well but those wafts irritated me, I wish they didn't so much because I want to love this fragrance I really do.
I can't help myself with this one, I appreciate why it might be considered scratchy & screechy and send folks running for the hills, with it's plastoc vibes and 'in your face' volume. I kinda like that about 1.3. It smells like excitement and nervous anticipation to me, it's alive, sharp and no nonsense. It reminds me of the smell approaching selfridges perfume counter, a brutal mixture of all the various smells and molecules mixing in the air. It's a hardcore sweet, jammy, metallic rose opening then immediately a nose tingling saffron note which pairs perfectly. I mean lets face it 1.3 isn't breaking any new ground but it's retreading some likeable ground very proficiently. The saffron in this kind of fragrance does smell leathery (kind faux, patent leather too) but also more like real saffron fronds than a saffron tincture does. I'm assuming this is an accord made from synthetics? but doesn't smell like the signature saffraleine either. Then there's the oud like element which is definitely apparent both real and synthetic with a kind of harsh, resinous, plastic feel. I kinda love this because as familiar as it feels and as much like an oud/rose/saffron that it is.... I can't actually site any reference to what it smells similar to? I'm genuinely tempted as I've seen this for a cheap price but I know I'd get sick of it after a few hours, and I'd have to wear it as a show piece for going out or something...it's too loud for casual wear I feel.
I'd never tried anything from Daniel Josier (here's where I look back and discover a review from 5 years ago) and I was expecting some rich, quality bizzness and that's what I got. The initial spray for me is honey sweet, sticky, balsamic and laden with spicy goodness. It's a little like TF Tobacco Vanille but then becomes more cinnamon spiced and a complete dead-ringer for Oajan by PdM (or vice versa?) and that is a fragrance I love and own a bottle of. To separate the two I'd say this opens more full on and sweet than Oajan but also simultaneously more full bodied and tobacco like when dried down. Oajan is a bit less turbulent and gives fewer 'looks' or facets to me. Ambre Tabac seems to flip, smelling more spicy one minute then to more sweet, ambery then tobacco like. However, this is nickpicking (they are effectively Identical) and could be fantasy because I've not tried them side by side but I know Oajan pretty well having had a bottle the last several years and put a hefty dent in it from repeated winter wearing. Lasts well and smells of something I love deeply, so this is a winner for me.
This has had some fanfare...I mean Malle fans going crazy about Ellena releasing a new Editions de Parfum. The Ellena retrospective at Pitti this year, Malle himself doing a IG Live Q&A about this release, seems like it's been everywhere recently. So unusual how different people perceive fragrances, I get much less geranium or a geraniol rose than the votes here suggest other people do. It's not quite jammy sweet either, but combined with Ellena's signature fruity vibes gives a strawberry/red berry smell which is light and playful. Now couple that (or Juxtapose it?) with the Isobutyl Quinoline which BTW you can smell right from the opening, giving this a dry, leather like accord. It's actually well handled as you'd expect from Malle with a master perfumer at the helm but what is this obsession with fruity/fresh tops and leather bases? FM Promise is exactly the same concept and maybe it's just me but I'm not feeling it. I mean it's okay, I'm not trashing it and the concept of leather and roses is a good one, but I just had a feeling Ellena wouldn't do a Morillas Gucci Guilty Absoulte PH. By that I mean come with some uncharacteristically 'balls out' heavy rose & Intoxicating leather smasher like a Portrait of a Lady or Carnal Flower, instead opting to produce something much more inkeeping with his style. That's what he's done here, a cheerful rose perfume with a hint of leather that feels modern and evokes red, transparent cellophane in my mind. There could be those that think this is great and I can't argue taste, but I found it a little disappointing considering the hype.
I hate commenting on new 'female' releases as I figure my opinion is less valid as they are clearly not aimed at me and I should just remain in my wheelhouse. However, it's not in my nature to do that, and I thought Libre sucked...HARD! No only kidding, but have YSL created a perfume so bland and (hate this cliche but...) crowd pleasing that I couldn't even focus on it for a second? Reminiscent of that episode of Father Ted with the Priest with the most boring voice in Ireland.:) I love Orange blossom (now) and I can't say that this has the waxy majesty, but there you go. The opening is a orange/fig sort of citrus, aldehyde, into a white flowery heart which I never felt had a great deal of intrigue. The drydown was light with a mild sweetness, not too sweet and inevitably butched up on my skin compared to that of ladies no doubt. I'd have to test Libre again to assess the sheerness and feminine vibes but NOTHING about this perfume grabbed me and I'm someone who has a history of enjoying YSL's femme roster, Rive Gauche and Cinema being case in point.
Here's the lowdown on Teddy. It's not very good. I'm sorry Penhaligon's I'm a fan of the brand but many of this line are poorly conceived, poorly executed and not up to the standard of the regular line. Taste wise this fragrance is well up my street though. I impressed the lady in the store when identifying pink pepper in the opening. I don't know why she was impressed it's so blatant it's unbelievable, and as a schinus molle enthusiast I should be jumping for joy, especially in a broadly modern, unapologetically unnatural type of composition...but something about this isn't that great. Teddy lacks depth, it's that simple. The opening is a spicy, incense accord and for all the pink pepper and actually a cumin/caraway character creeping in, it feels a little flat and lifeless. Teddy didn't last very well on my skin either. I'm sorry because the Rhino stopper is one of the coolest so far. I have a sample so I guess I'll wear it again properly but I doubt my opinion will change. UPDATE: Let this serve as a reminder not to judge to hastily based on a spritz on your hand in store. To be fair I did state that I loved pink pepper and incense and that Teddy smelled great in the opening, but like some 'bro' Youtuber I got all fixated on 'performance' and value for money. I stick to what I said about the line and Penhaligon's pushing out the releases as if they are on some treadmill, but Birsch's efforts here are decent and Teddy is a fascinating, sparkly pink pepper and incense accord which smells remarkably sweet airy, with a hint of leather tinged smoke, smooth but with some jagged angularity to it. It's fresh and uplifting to me, not quite as much as some (cruely) Olibanum based incense because it has slightly more heft, Labdanum and frankincense being prominent. Truth is I'd rather have this than the one I own Lord George and I'm reasonably fond of George so that's praise indeed.
I remember when these came out not so long ago and I tried them in store. They clearly didn't burn into my permanent memory banks because I'm revisiting them now but I recall this was a favourite. Also a friend of mine sent me a picture message out of the blue of a bottle of this saying how much she adored it and that I must try it. Well she was right! Kensington amber is as far up my street as you can get, beautiful sharpness in the opening of honied sweet resins and oriental goodness. Then a piercing cinnamon note giving more warmth but definition, highlighting the edges of the amber. A lightly hay like dryness and vanilla of tonka bean plumps out an already heavy smell. Like all good ambers it dries down to vanilla, either from the vanilla nature of Styrax benzoin itself or even more quality vanilla underneath? Obviously I love fragrances like this, they're my bread n butter but does this really have that je ne sais quoi? ALMOST it does but not quite. I will have to wear it more extensively.
Okay so this fragrance is nice, but it's in the vein of lots of the fragrances mentioned in the 'smells like bit...' in fact it reads like a who's who of what I was thinking. Say what you like about Penhaligon's performance or fragrance that aren't particularly noteworthy, but they are almost always complex and original. Marlybone wood simply isn't and there's nothing wrong with that, it's more gourmand and not quite as dark as a blcak afgano but that is the yardstick really isn't it. This is more inline with Carner Cuirs, again a fantastic fragrance which comprises than playdoh element, resins and oud with a hint of hashish to create a remarkably sticky, icky fragrance. This has the Labdanum upfront that Green Bubble by Jusbox also possesses, so good spot whoever else voted that but really is this anything of note? I'll pass it by thanks. I'm never one to say that a fragrance is completely redundant and this 'style' isn't oversubscribed yet...but it's heading that way. However, with my positive hat on I'd say it's because it's a popular theme.
Tricked my nose a little to begin with I got a smooth vanilla, synth orris maybe even ambrette/musk mallow sort of vibe? Then a wool, warm cashmere woods, and the second time I applied it Pierre was much sharper and more straight forward in the opening...it's a tricky fragrance. Definitely a kind of synth woody amber and that milky sweetened fougere vibe of a Le Male/Reflection man starts to creep in as it dries down. It's okay, not great though.
This fragrance had me excited after the Incense and Amber ones...I'm not actually sure this is part of that slightly elevated line being instead just a 'normal' flanker. That's the smell too, quite normal for a Miyake. The opening transported me to the nineties,(in a good way) the top notes of grapefruit are vivid, bitter, long lasting and a signature citrus spikiness of L'eau d'Issey. Wasn't surprised to see that among the notes here. Then there's the woods which come on in the drydown to a very dry, driftwood type of effect for me. It works with the citrus in the same way a lemon and tonic water works with gin. I do get a vaguely juniper like nuance from this giving it an edge of the GnT. However, I found it disappointing, the opening is nice but generic, the drydown has the character I mentioned, but it's not enough for me, something saps all the pleasure out of this fragrance until only a dry husk remains. It's okay but not all that good.
This fragrance is simply an abomination. Why? Why does it exist? I know how fragrance pricing works and the cost of manufacture but they're not even trying to hide the fact it's a dud because it's brand new and hit the shelves at bargain basement prices. The awful look of the bottle should've repelled me but I'm so curious and such a glutton for punishment I never dismiss anything....Imagine if it had have been amazing? I think to myself... Wishful thinking I'm afraid, Ungaro 'Art' is a monumental stinker. Now I'm not completely apposed to this kind of chintzy vibe, the playful hubba bubba undertone and hot pink hue and screech, but COME ON!!! Speaking of Screech the bottle 'artwork' if I dare to call it that looks like someone ate a 'Saved by the bell' & 'Fresh Prince...' back2back VHS tape and projectile vomited upon it's vulgar canister. I have to assume the name is ironic and the people who produced this god awful, noxious, fugg had their tongues firmly planted in cheek at the time. 'Art' ??? I mean it's an age old and thankless philosophical concept to unravel and I often come down on the liberal interpretation...everything is art. It's a problematic label though and while I might struggle to tell you what art is, I can much more easily tell you what it isn't. This fragrance is NOT ART. It takes this kind of stink to snap me out of my hippy fence sitting on the subject. I'd rather toke a bong of sarin gas or eat landfill to be honest. Everyone involved with this fragrance should be truly ashamed of themselves. Okay breaking character for a moment it's big, over sweet, bubblegum, tonka, thing which opens offensively but dries down...well... pretty offensively. It's not got the fairground charm or vaguely interesting theme's of Ultra Male. It's a low rent, cheap version of heavy 'night' scents with tonka or turbo coumarin, also Joop fragrances like the new Wow! and others but again makes them look accomplished. Is it really that bad?....no...but like come on? Are people really out there liking this? I mean there must be but why? I'm more annoyed with the lazy, cynical, anti artistry of this fragrance. I know, I know, it's not some artisan fragrance, (it's 'exclusive' in Superdrug FFS!) it's cheap and cheerful and not aimed at me...all that stuff but I'd like something in this category not to pander to trends and make something that's not just a big, sickening, soup for a change....is that too much to ask for?
This fragrance is superb and troubling. Ozonic in the opening it's complex metallic structure is certainly reminiscent of a wet stone for sure. Mineral rich, watery but earthy, and distinct maybe a touch of vetiver creating that smoky, flint effect representing the stone? If it was just all weird like this I'd dismiss it as an unwearable art piece but there's clearly a long lasting an pleasant citrus accord right from the get go. There's additionally the 'wet' part with a fixative, pleasant sweetness and unsettled synthetic ambergris note in this fragrance, adding to the warmth & naturalism but somehow conversely contributing to it's stark mininalism. It lasted FOREVER on my skin but isn't invasive by any means. It offered a bit of a challange for me as did all three of the White bottles in this line. Less so that the Vetiver and Hinoki ones though this is much more tame, hence why I elected to wear it. I mean...this is ok, it grew on me more in the drydown. If it was about half the price I might consider it?
Oh me....oh my, this fragrance is lovely. Incredibly warm, with a fruity, floral and even feminine aspect, with a light caramel/fudge accord in which the florals seem suspended. It's not a cloying, Mugleresque, big, heavy floral/gourmand Widian V is judged to perfection in a similar way to Widian II (I recall that's quite sweet?) This isn't the whole story though because it's dries down to a light musky accord and even a little woody and leathery on my skin (perhaps sandalwood?) with suggestions of that powdered apricot and vanilla sweetness but not dominated by them. I thought it was pretty impressed by it, lasted very well too.
I'm revisiting a ton of fragrances from the classic designer houses at the moment namely Hermes and Chanel to reassess things that I really should own by now. Gallop was one I came across that I never got to upon it's release but the bottle definitely intrigued me and I've only just realised that it's shape is supposed to be that of a stirrup. duh! haha Anyway, I'm someone who gives the accord of leather such a broad ranging spectrum I'm inclined to incorporate even the least leathery, 'leather' into it. However, I'm not sure Gallop can be included? but if it was... maybe it has a vague undercurrent of floral/leather? If I said Knize Ten that would be misleading but I'm burying my nose into it to get what the kind of leather could be? It's more that than anything but if you have to stretch that hard to find it, the accord is clearly not prominent enough. So the main body is the opening notes of what I was going to describe as a watery fig like note, but not fig and apparently what I'm smelling there is quince, so there you have it. There's a light whisp of rose and a hint of powdered florals. I wasn't hugely taken with it, but Gallop is fresh, clean and doesn't seem to resemble much I've been exposed to so it's worthy of another try I think.
