Dunno why I haven't posted my review of this yet? I could've sworn I saw bile spitting diatribe of a review from a certain active forum member on this the otherday, doesn't appear to be here anymore? Oh well. I was going to say that his repeated remarks about this being '...nothing like Fahrenheit and anyone who says it is has a crap nose or is deliberately misleading you!' (I'm paraphrasing but that was the general gist.) Well, not meaning to pull rank or anything because all our opinions are valid and I love a good, harsh review every now and again...but I'm somewhat of a Fahrenheit devotee and have owned and still do the original and subsequent reformulations. So please when I tell you this has shades of Fahrenheit or bears a resemblance then please believe it does. It might be easy or lazy to compare this to Fahrenheit because of leather and Violet, because Portrayal is a different perfume, but to say that the comparison is ridiculous or reductive (to either perfume) is simply wrong. My review from July 2019.... Right...Amouage Portrayal Man, is the last release under the creative direction of Christopher Chong (It's actually not but it's the first to be released after the announcement he was leaving his position.) and it's a real coup de grace. Going in a floral direction again, I really liked Imitation and this treads a conspicuously similar path in terms of 'feel'. My nose detects a leather accord, some subtle caraway or cumin, a clean green note (maybe galbanum?) beautiful violet accord which isn't overly sweet, or powdery and merges effortlessly into the buttery orris/leather of this fragrances beating heart. Then there's a soft, woody note developing, that is litterally pencil shavings, some people associate with cedar and vetiver (can't say I do) but more predominantly with a sandalwood for me. If it doesn't contain these I will eat my hat. So Portrayal Man reminds me of an outfit I used to wear to sixth form (before I got kicked out :) So indulge me for a moment. So it's mainly based around a full length, sheepskin jacket, which coupled with the rest of the outfit made me feel like John Shaft, when in reality I probably looked more like John Motson. Super thick, corduroy tousers with deep piping. A shirt in a kind of peanut brown, made from an unusual fabric that I used to describe as a mixture between suede and neoprene, wetsuit material, with a kind of rubbery sheen. Then an Authentic 1970's tie of my dad's that starts off about the width of a postage stamp and flares out to that of a Manila envelope, in a kind of silky, satin material (which is likely polyester! haha) in a pecan brown with Fanta orange stripes across it in a diagonal pattern. Completing the 'look' with some supple and well tenderised, suede moccasins. Yeah you can say it...I was one fly cat! haha. This fragrance oozes suede, with a lush greeness in the opening, alluding to the freshness of floral, violet leaf, peaking out their powdery little, purple, heads. It has a vague nod to Amouages history of more heady and robust incense fragrances peppered thoughout the men's and women's lines. That slight, dirt and even petrol like effect but very minimal and barely there, adding to the Fahrenheit associations and for all it's similar theme's, Portrayal is nothing like Fahrenheit in truth. So there you have it Houdini...you actually agree with him...look at the last line!!!! Well in context when you wear the fragrance you realise just how different it is, but initial associations and mentions of Fahrenheit are crucial in understanding and processing this Fragrance. I really liked it BTW but was it a standout or even as good as the last release Imitation...not really but it's not bad either.
I'm shocked that I never put pen to paper about this fragrance at the time I tried it (whenever that was?) Shocked because I actually thought this was a daft, bit of 'meh' that smelled vaguely of a apple, vanillic, musky haze and therefore pretty likable. I've subsequently worn it many times of the last few years (as I keep getting samples of the stuff!) desperately trying to understand the obvious 'bro' appeal and I have to say that Layton ...is the devil. What a load of rubbish, I don't think I've ever had a scent do this, I mean grow worse and worse in my affections. It's initially okay I guess but soon becomes cloying and unfair to compare to Boss Bottled in reality. Actually I have had another do this... Mancera Cedrat Boise another popular but terrible fragrance.
At last!!!! This is finally in the database! I thought I was going mad...I tried it ages ago and even had a sample I think? and I couldn't find it on the CC website or online anywhere...as if I'd imagined it. Well it does exist, and although Clive takes a monumental amount of flack from purists, perfumistas, even fans of this kind of ridiculously opulent, luxury, bullshit are sometimes disparaging but let me tell you this stuff is AWE INSPIRING!!! What a fragrance!!! You get some of the heat and bite in the opening but I can't say this smells all that much of sichuan, perhaps when it settles similarly to pink pepper because this definitely has that character along with that sharpness you get from labdanum or something? It's positivity sweet, yet spicy nuance completely charmed me to the point where I was transfixed by the scent. It dries down to a more floral smell, I just thought it was fantastic. I remember it vividly and this was just a chance encounter in Selfridges probably 2 or 3 years ago now? but I sniffed my arm all night and wore a sample later which confirmed how much of a winner this is. It's a totally unique fragrance for me, and despite my own hangups and ingrained disdain for this brand, I have to say that some of these 'Twist' ones and the 'Noble' collection were very original. I feel the same about the Gourmand, the fougere, the rockrose and papyrus ones, all Fantastic. So why haven't I bought it? Well considering that this is £250 for 50ml it's at the higher end of what is acceptable for me to pay for perfume. However, it's not astronomical compared with other niche brands or the rest of the CC line most seem to be £375 and up. So in some crazy moment I might be tempted to get this but that is a reflection of how good I think it smells because the 'prestige' of owning CC has the reverse effect on me, I'm actually embarrassed to own such decadent stuff, like if I suddenly came into money, I couldn't drive around in a Ferrari, I'd feel like a twat.
Finally it's Rosamonda a perfume which is personally not of interest to me, because I wouldn't wear it. However, it is of interest in a 'clinically fascinating' sense. Philip Kraft described this fragrance recently as smelling like, dew covered roses complete with stem an thorns everything. That's what this is, a visceral, green, herbal take on the rose, not all pretty petals and jam this has some detritus to it. It's not quite dead rose but I detect more of a lean towards a geraniol (which the formula confirms) type of rose a more earthy affair. It's actually got somewhat of the Bulgarian absolute but with an all around more transparent feeling.
Well, well, well. You look at the notes or a basic description or even the formula provided, and you cringe hard and think...okay so Raspberry and leather....hmmmm... what raspberry and leather combo's are out there? Then your mind recoils after whizzing through a universe teeming with them, until you fix upon the largest and arguably brightest star in that crowded galaxy...Tuscan leather. But it's not. As bizarre as that sounds, it's truly not. Yes of course the association is there, but this is much more light and playful and as someone who's not really a fan of raspberry and fruity crap being juxtaposed with leather accords (hmmm...FM recently anyone? errrrr...The MOON, PROMISE, ROSE & CUIR) I've got to say this stuff is pretty nice. The jammy, sweet raspberry note is quite fresh and not cloying, the violet note is subtle and a little powdery and works insanely well with the fruitiness. Then there's the leather accord which is nothing hugely accurate but doesn't have any jarring, edgey bite or recognisable tropes of too much IBQ. This is a lighter, floral cuir base, a leather which is iris feeling and lightly cosmetic in approach. It smells more considered to me like the new Tuscan leather extreme or the Ombre leather if you had to compare it to a TF leather. It's pretty good then, but still not hugely in my taste wheelhouse. I'd just say don't dismiss it before wearing it.
In a line chock full of unabashed synthetic brews, Coffeeze actually looks like it contains lots of naturals but if you thought that makes for a realistic or even nice smelling fragrance...think again. Coffeeze is a hideous, olfactory assault and insult. The opening is like wow...this is interesting but then becomes and sweating, fettered, oud and patchouli abomination. It basically takes all the worst facets, awful rubbery patchouli, the mild skank of Laotian oud doesn't help proceedings, and then creamy tonka in the mix is just the catalyst needed to make something truly horrific. What grinds my gears the most?? NO COFFEE to speak of!!! Maybe there is? and that just adds to the problematic chords stuck by this bizarre perfume. Best forgotten. Who knows though? Some folks might love it?
Elemi and atlas cedar in the opening give a kind of piney, lemony, balmy resin effect. This subsides into a kind of plasticy, saffron leather accord which isn't very pleasurable. Then after hours when it's almost completely gone it smells sweetly of vanilla. (worth noting I was surprised as there's no vanilla noticeable for the first several hours) I don't like this fragrance and I hadn't seen the formula for it, nor had I read any notes. Very intriguing that everything you smell is in here (according to Fragrantica) ...that's rare. So perhaps this is a masterful work showing all those materials and properties off? I didn't particularly enjoy it though.
This perfume plugs directly into my current tastes, reminding me of loads of soft, gentile, musky things. I love the construction, great simplicity on the formula from Celine Ellena and nothing hidden in accords, speaking to the nature of this. I was surprised how little Ambrettolide is in here but I'm not suggesting this smells like any one thing because it doesn't. Superfusion is such an appropriate name for it but if you do like Galaxolide or musk mallow, soft, clean musks basically you will enjoy this but still be shown some originality with this perfume. One minor criticism is that it tends to fatigue and gets a bit, bready and wheaty on my skin when dried down to the IES baseafter the sweetness of the musks has died a touch. Still awesome though.
I'll have to try this again because my notes say 'green' chlorophyll but not basil crucially. A herbal green bergamot I described it as when it's compared here to Tacid a fragrance I felt had a basil note quite prominently. Anywho...no prizes for guessing that there's Cis-3-Hexanol in here giving it a bright, breezy, grassy vibe but balanced perfectly so as not to be intrusive. I enjoyed it but not something to be raved about.
oooh...This is rough. 70% ISO E SUPER (Not that it's a bad thing) in here with PEA in the opening, flitting between anosmic anonymity, and astringent sharpness akin to hairspray or a particularly potent bug killer. Truly not pleasant and I'm not apposed to this stuff at all, but in this particular combo, it's fairly god awful. Then when dried down it becomes better but it's essentially that 'barely there', skin minimalism which does have the dry, kinda appealing IES facets, perhaps cashmeran making it woodier and silkier? it also has a vague, paper and hint of curry note. reasonably enjoyable after the initial phase.
As cynical as the review below is... He has a point. As cynical as the review below that is... They have a point too. A marginal defence of this brand, they are overtly, telling and selling us a concept. A strong one I think, which shines a spotlight on perfumery practices in a very knowing and post modern way. The pop art, primary colours and slick packaging, Flacons etc...reflects this. And they're not extortionately expensive (are they?) However, I get the scepticism and I imagine they will end up in TK MAXX soon. Especially where the oud content of this particular one is concerned. Saving graces are that it doesn't have 'Oud' in the name and it's using a legit Indian Oud material (if a tiny amount) also, this fragrance really isn't intentionally an oud but obviously the perfumer felt it brought something to the formula? (I'm grasping here, because I don't know?) Anyway the other thing that's good about Sexcrush is that it's a nice perfume, giving a very balmy, resinous effect of amber, entombed in a vaguely medicinal 'bandage' note a bit like myrrh I suppose? and the obligatory rose accord. (Could be the oud?) feels a bit powdery, drying down the rose stays bright but feels much more about bass tones than top fluff or heart dominance. A modern amber I'd say. I liked it.
Intriguing formula, Carlin hiding all the juicy stuff within the accords but it's pretty straight up I thought. The leather base prominent and iris poking through, I love the smell of it but not wildly original. I need to sniff it again to be honest but I liked it very much. Anything of note about the formula? 1% Fleur d'oranger which I know from using the expensive absolute, is quite easily masked. I don't recall smelling it in this, so yeah...I'll have to revisit? 1/3 of the formula is hedione which is not uncommon but is probably what's supporting those iris (and barely detectable Orange blossom) notes from popping through.
I was expecting to like this one as much as I did not because of the ginger element but the fact that it's not that easy to pull off. Gingerlise doesn't manage it either really. I think I was imagining a kind of crystallised ginger in this, not sure I was actually smelling it though? However it gives that impression. I will give it a 'light' transparent ginger note at best however that's not where the fun lies. Gingerlise has a glorious citrus opening which has all the freshness of lemongrass with none of the horrible part, so easy to overdose in a citrus accord but so beneficial to it's lasting power and overall roundness, when you get it right. To me it had lime dominance, not the green bergamot or typical citrus this packs the punch and originality I look for in a fresh fragrance. However, it's very short lived sitting on a light musky base and only lasted a couple of hours. Shame because this was a surprising like for me.
A piece of Amber repeated dunked into the dead sea and dried, covering it in crystalline salt. This is a modern, ambergris recreation, IES dominant in the opening drying to a leathery, amber accord which then turns a Little soured and resembles Amberome base, which isn't in here but is actually real labdanum according to the formula. Strange though because it has a distinctly rubbery, mineral odour that I associate with it, bit odd for me. Reminded me of 'Slate' a perfume from Bath House in the drydown. The saltiness with the largely modern, woody, amber is kinda interesting I suppose? Would I wear it? No.But it's not offensive. Anything interesting to note about the formula supplied for this one? Not really other than it's considered as an 'Oriental Vanilla' by it's creator(???) bit odd. 30% Iso E Super which is not surprising or haute compared to some.
Nope! This is hideous too. An overly strong waxy neroli temporally masks the awful almond, salty, coconut, creamy, murky childhood medicine smell of the original..but dies after the first 20 mins. Not a fan.
One of the strangest olfactory experiences I can recall from recent times fantastical and awful in equal measure. With my sensible hat on this is a loud, brash overly harsh, fruity oud mess. The opening flits between exotic but entirely unnatural fruits I thought kinda resembled red berries, mango and even pineapple at times. Not surprised to see all the fruits listed and perhaps lychee is exactly it? This is juxtaposed against a strongly animalic, cheese smell of oud in the top notes but it's quite fleeting only lasting 20 minutes or so before a relentless, smoky, dirty leather and synthetic musky, amber accords develop which smells like every cuir base ever conceived of, all mixed together with a dry, tenacious flith of Isobutyl Quinoline and saffron. However, despite this seemingly negative slant to my review so far, I actually think Moon is a pretty original and interesting piece. It's not the meek, uninspiring effort that I thought Rose & Cuir turned out to be and I think you will get some bang for your buck or Dirham? as this is undoubtedly being pushed towards the middle eastern market. The Moon is so bonkers, I couldn't wear it. This is a taste thing purely and I'm in a phase of gentle, Chanel refinement at present and stuff like this just seems like it has neon signs on it and huge thug life sirens going off! The Moon is the precocious drama school kid dancing around and furiously trying to steal the limelight.
This is fantastic. My favourite from Francesca's line I think? Even though it smells incredibly familiar, perhaps I'm just a creature of habit? It's pretty classical chypre/fougere bizness and has the opening of eau de cologne, sharp bits but with great materials. Namely citus in the opening, green, herbal bergamot into oakmoss and that orris and more prominent vetiver woods. Francesca is a master of leather feeling accords and pretty much each fragrance has an entirely different look of leather. Estruscan water is more classically in the aromatic VC&A, aramis, safari...sort of territory. It's light on it's feet though and perhaps a touch more rugged and real or just less refined than classic designer fair of a similar ilk. I think the freshness in this really elevates it and gives a welcome breath of fresh air from some of the more claustrophobic creations in her repertoire.
Francesca unveiled two new releases at Pitti this year and although I couldn't make it, very kindly sent me a sample of this, so Bless your heart. I love Black Knight. It's fantastic! I can't place the fragrance that it actually does smell like, but here's a few that if you're familiar with might give a flavour of what to expect. Elements of Iris Nazarena, Dior Homme, Lonestar memories Coal or Coven (Andrea Maack) and maybe Carven vetiver. Opens not nearly as vetiver based as the description had me thinking, buttery orris, flecks of vegetal and greens with a chunky, soiled earth and off kilter sweetness of patchouli. It's a soft leathery accord built around a iris/orris and then the oily, grubby rag of vetiver just thrown in to give some roughage to the otherwise silky smoothness of Orris root. There's a lightly cosmetic effect, mineral, stone qualities of a quarry or mine. It's very lightly smokey but not thin or brittle. Broadly masculine leaning for what that's worth, and the balance of elements is perfect.
I think Francesca is very adept at creating that 'skin' smell but with varying degrees of success as to whether it agrees with my tastes. In this case I think it works fairly well, although It's still difficult to say whether I like Angel dust or not. This is crudely a honey sweetened balsamic with a dirty musk undercurrent and it's a classic combo really viewed through the lens of an indy perfumer who likes to turn things upto 11 especially the animal element. Here it's reasonably subdued the amber is light, floral powdery, and probably the most retrained that she gets in her repertoire.
This is the problem when you get to know perfumers (in an internet/social media sense) that it becomes increasingly hard to punch their 'baby' square in the face! In fact, forget punching try taking a flying run up an drop kicking their baby square in the thorax! Sex and the sea is HORRENDOUS. (So sorry Francesca I love you xxxx) But truth be told this is a nightmare of a perfume and I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say technically (if you respect my opinion in that regard?) and taste wise this makes me say... why??? Why on earth would this get past the stringent checks and workings a perfumer does when creating a formula? The opening is just crazy in it's sweetness, like I felt my teeth getting cavities but I persevere because all Bianchi's have this concentrated opening, only to blossom into beauties...not this time. That sweet phase lasts for a minute or so then you're hit with a milky, murky, fatty, lactonic, fruity/coconut which believe it or not I actually don't mind as a note in many perfumes but here it's portrayed with a certain wickedness...and not wickedness in a good way! Perhaps it's the context but I smell a heavy and crude dose of civet replacer which coupled with the general vibes in sex and the sea, smells pissy and dirty and not in a thoughtful, indolic way or a sweet animal furry way. It's somewhat salty and ambergris is undoubtedly here perhaps giving that impression and contributing to the problematic animal tones? There's a sweetness of vanilla to it at the same time and through some perverse interest, I'm struggling to find positives in S&tS. It has the texture of some tepid medicine administered as a child... just odd. This is a real stinker and true to form it's monstrous in performance. I hated it. Can Sex & the sea Neroli be good? I'm apprehensive to find out.
This is a gently refined perfume but essentially a kind of sweet, floral, gourmand and doppelganger of Lancome La Vie est Belle. Which is a sort of linear vanilla warmth and gentle rose, perhaps touches of light musk. I'd never wear it personally but I completely see the feminine appeal and it's very nicely put together. I just like Loewe as a brand.
I only had a brief spritz and I do have some samples of this so a further update is on the cards. However, first impressions are very good. This is a solid citrus accord as you'd expect from AdP which conveys the slightly more exotic, lemon/grapefruit aspect you get from Yuzu. It's not spiky though, very smooth. Musk base. First impressions are very good...wasn't a huge performer but I'm going to wear it properly to determine that in more detail. It somehow has that cloudy rather than clear juice sense to it.
Okay let's break this down. Bianchi's fragrances are so loaded and potent that the base notes have top notes if you know what I mean and the clarity in the opening can sometimes be lost. Youmust be patient though because these fragrances shift in tonality as they mature on your skin. The opening of this is sweetly a mixture of sweetly resinous and oriental and huge amounts of animalic notes. Primarily it has that 'cheese' smell you get from real civet (not the non animal replacement) and some oud oils. It's a barnyard connundrum/carcrash...and interesting to me...somewhat of an olfactory psychonaut but is it pleasant perfume...not particularly. However all is revealed and forgiven in the drydown when The lover's tale mutates into the most beautiful, castoreum leather and buttery floral scent (like Cuir de Russie) and just oozes masses of quality. Absolutely sublime. reminscent of a much nicer and smoother experience than Cuir d'Arabie by Montale but somewhat analogous with the harsh opening. It's brilliant though. I want a bottle but I don't want anyone to smell me for the first hour or so?
So this has been a long time coming, I'd heard massively positive things about Francesca's work and was slow to get samples, for some strange reason? Anyway I started with Under my skin as this appeared to be the one with the most reviews and one that people seemed to be feeling earth-moving, epoch shattering connections with. Well I have to say I didn't feel all that connected to Under my skin at first. The quality materials and swathes of heavy, animal tinged spices explode out of the bottle at you. I love cumin and this has that sweaty, animalic, civet replacement dose but frankly it felt a little clumsy and kinda all over the place in the opening. I had the same thoughts as Bengale Rouge recently... Was this really the scent that was compared to vintage Guerlain's and the like? Because at the moment it feels distinctly Indy like. However, similar to Bengale Rouge it's an ugly ducking that becomes the proverbial swan and the drydown soars majestically. It gets progressively, sweeter, muskier and everything tightens up or loosens off? (one of them?) a bit like the skin or epidermal layer this is apparently under? Well, not apparently, it is under, and after two hours all the chaotic 'offness' had gone and it was under mine for sure. The soft, spicy, animalic undertones are just like warm, slightly dirty fur. The spicy cinnamon facets, lending a kind of tolu balm sense of subtly and a sweet musky nature throughout, balances perfectly now, and all is calm and right with the world. I learned the lesson a long time ago that some (especially indy and largely natural) fragrances have to go through some exceptionally potent (to the point of unpleasantness) phases to reach the place they really want to be...which is dried down and working with our skin, which is exactly where this perfume is at home....On skin....or under in? whatever?!?!? I will wear it properly to determine my thoughts further but it's a real heavy hitter and projected strongly as well as being super tenacious.
