This is the problem when you get to know perfumers (in an internet/social media sense) that it becomes increasingly hard to punch their 'baby' square in the face! In fact, forget punching try taking a flying run up an drop kicking their baby square in the thorax! Sex and the sea is HORRENDOUS. (So sorry Francesca I love you xxxx) But truth be told this is a nightmare of a perfume and I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say technically (if you respect my opinion in that regard?) and taste wise this makes me say... why??? Why on earth would this get past the stringent checks and workings a perfumer does when creating a formula? The opening is just crazy in it's sweetness, like I felt my teeth getting cavities but I persevere because all Bianchi's have this concentrated opening, only to blossom into beauties...not this time. That sweet phase lasts for a minute or so then you're hit with a milky, murky, fatty, lactonic, fruity/coconut which believe it or not I actually don't mind as a note in many perfumes but here it's portrayed with a certain wickedness...and not wickedness in a good way! Perhaps it's the context but I smell a heavy and crude dose of civet replacer which coupled with the general vibes in sex and the sea, smells pissy and dirty and not in a thoughtful, indolic way or a sweet animal furry way. It's somewhat salty and ambergris is undoubtedly here perhaps giving that impression and contributing to the problematic animal tones? There's a sweetness of vanilla to it at the same time and through some perverse interest, I'm struggling to find positives in S&tS. It has the texture of some tepid medicine administered as a child... just odd. This is a real stinker and true to form it's monstrous in performance. I hated it. Can Sex & the sea Neroli be good? I'm apprehensive to find out.
This is a gently refined perfume but essentially a kind of sweet, floral, gourmand and doppelganger of Lancome La Vie est Belle. Which is a sort of linear vanilla warmth and gentle rose, perhaps touches of light musk. I'd never wear it personally but I completely see the feminine appeal and it's very nicely put together. I just like Loewe as a brand.
I only had a brief spritz and I do have some samples of this so a further update is on the cards. However, first impressions are very good. This is a solid citrus accord as you'd expect from AdP which conveys the slightly more exotic, lemon/grapefruit aspect you get from Yuzu. It's not spiky though, very smooth. Musk base. First impressions are very good...wasn't a huge performer but I'm going to wear it properly to determine that in more detail. It somehow has that cloudy rather than clear juice sense to it.
Okay let's break this down. Bianchi's fragrances are so loaded and potent that the base notes have top notes if you know what I mean and the clarity in the opening can sometimes be lost. Youmust be patient though because these fragrances shift in tonality as they mature on your skin. The opening of this is sweetly a mixture of sweetly resinous and oriental and huge amounts of animalic notes. Primarily it has that 'cheese' smell you get from real civet (not the non animal replacement) and some oud oils. It's a barnyard connundrum/carcrash...and interesting to me...somewhat of an olfactory psychonaut but is it pleasant perfume...not particularly. However all is revealed and forgiven in the drydown when The lover's tale mutates into the most beautiful, castoreum leather and buttery floral scent (like Cuir de Russie) and just oozes masses of quality. Absolutely sublime. reminscent of a much nicer and smoother experience than Cuir d'Arabie by Montale but somewhat analogous with the harsh opening. It's brilliant though. I want a bottle but I don't want anyone to smell me for the first hour or so?
So this has been a long time coming, I'd heard massively positive things about Francesca's work and was slow to get samples, for some strange reason? Anyway I started with Under my skin as this appeared to be the one with the most reviews and one that people seemed to be feeling earth-moving, epoch shattering connections with. Well I have to say I didn't feel all that connected to Under my skin at first. The quality materials and swathes of heavy, animal tinged spices explode out of the bottle at you. I love cumin and this has that sweaty, animalic, civet replacement dose but frankly it felt a little clumsy and kinda all over the place in the opening. I had the same thoughts as Bengale Rouge recently... Was this really the scent that was compared to vintage Guerlain's and the like? Because at the moment it feels distinctly Indy like. However, similar to Bengale Rouge it's an ugly ducking that becomes the proverbial swan and the drydown soars majestically. It gets progressively, sweeter, muskier and everything tightens up or loosens off? (one of them?) a bit like the skin or epidermal layer this is apparently under? Well, not apparently, it is under, and after two hours all the chaotic 'offness' had gone and it was under mine for sure. The soft, spicy, animalic undertones are just like warm, slightly dirty fur. The spicy cinnamon facets, lending a kind of tolu balm sense of subtly and a sweet musky nature throughout, balances perfectly now, and all is calm and right with the world. I learned the lesson a long time ago that some (especially indy and largely natural) fragrances have to go through some exceptionally potent (to the point of unpleasantness) phases to reach the place they really want to be...which is dried down and working with our skin, which is exactly where this perfume is at home....On skin....or under in? whatever?!?!? I will wear it properly to determine my thoughts further but it's a real heavy hitter and projected strongly as well as being super tenacious.
I enjoyed this very much and without moaning about price once again I think I couldn't get on board enough with this fragrance to justify the pricetag. I found this to be one of the bolder, more standout in the City collection, probably just due to the nature of Tobacco...really? Being all rich, dark and satisfying. Do they bear a resemblance to the city's they are based on? Is Miami Tobacco because of the strong Cuban links? or am I over thinking things? Anyway it has a lovely boozy, opening, lightly smokey feel into a deep tobacco accord, with patchouli, and gentle spices, which smells to me authentic and well judged.
I was excited for this. I'm a huge fan of blushed, chic, little, pretty musk fragrances like this. The warm, clean cotton-like effect of musk mallow is right up my street and I tried this on a day I purchased Mugler Over the musk. Not to mention a great perfumer at the helm this one was set to knock it out of the park. Frankly I feel like one of those Millionaire twats on Dragon's den looking at a potentially attractive business proposition but as the pitch from the nervy entrepreneur wears on the whole thing starts to fall apart! then when we get to the figures??? Wow! It really becomes un-investable. I couldn't smell it on the strip really...at all...like Iso E Super it was barely there but I got a light musky, fruity sweet smell....but I had to strain to get anything! On skin it opens up but isn't quite like the poofy, warmth I'd envisaged, more clinical and modern, synthetic feeling. Now it would be interesting to see if there's real musk mallow in this having made that statement? It's very nice, sits close to the skin and the fact that it doesn't resemble what I expect from an ambrette fragrance or an accord made from ambrettolide, just works in it's favour, making me more likely to add it to the collection. Aside from one fact... The city exclusives are in excess of £360 in the UK. I mean...seriously Le Labo? I know hipsters often have a few quid and will splash for the sake of fashion and trends but even they'd think you were taking the piss a bit with this one.
Have I entered a parallel universe? Is this fragrance going to dramatically transform on contact with my skin and become this gross abomination that pretty much every review here agrees that it is? Now this is hasty and premature of me to offer a proper review without doing so, spraying it on a card as I have done. Let me go massively against the grain here and say that this is reminiscent of Christian Dior Fahrenheit but with drier more overt IES tones and parched ionones which mutate into a modern leather and faint diesel fume accord. This is par for the Durga course for me, uncompromising yet trendy and modern. I get the tartness of rhubarb in the opening and I think that pairs well with violet. I will update this review when I’ve warn this one but I thought it was pretty good, not earth shattering, but not quite derivative either.
This fragrance is DREAMY. Everything from this house is of the highest quality and perfect concepts everytime, from the three I've tried I'm enamoured by all of them. Oriental Velours is probably the most accurately myrrh based fragrance you will find. If you love the raw material then this will excite you. If you love a warm, oriental cuddle of a scent...this will excite you. If you want a smooth musky scent, this one will engage you. I thought it was brilliant. It's not you're usual balsamic either but has nods towards classic oriental perfumes without feeling at all derivative, musk and vanilla/amber sweetness are evoked in the opening before drying down to a more medicinal, herbal myrrh note which is perfectly balanced so it doesn't become too dominant (quite hard when trying to make it stand out but not dominate.) I love this but I think I preferred Musc des Sables for my collection but I'd defintely consider this in future for sure.
I don't understand how I'm capable of loving such an austere piece of understatement, a modern, transparent, white flower 'thing'which could just as easily be dismissed as cheap and throwaway but it's actually fantastic. This is often what I imagine a lilly to smell like a watery, white floral, muguet when in reality they have more in common with musc ravageur than this. (to me anyway) La Lune is basically an uber light tuberose and that's what makes it so compelling...I don't need to be bludgeoned over the head with a waxy, bubblegum tuberose all the time. This tickles my white floral pickle just the right amount. Coupled with the fact I think this fragrance is woody and lightly powdered after that cool, green opening. La Lune evokes some of the 'night blooming' vibe of dewy, cool, wetness, but also a pale, translucent moon, visible during the day. When dried down the effect is anything but cheap for me a delicate violet/iris/synthetic orris sweetness emerges but doesn't dominate. It seems like a very weak, watery EDC (as do many of this line) but I've found it lasts really well. It's now a mildly soapy, shampoo like affair which would normally repel me, but I love this fragrance. It's a wearable not overly feminine, floral fragrance that I'm thoroughly enjoying. 'Dans la Lune' or 'Moonstruck' (which is a great word) is a french phrase for being absent minded or 'having your head in the clouds.' and I completely get why. It might be cheap and cheerful but I think it also has more substance to it than I perhaps might've given it credit for on first sniff. Compared to other 'white flower' fragrances like the new Chanel Gabrielle EDP for example, this is infinitely more appealing and wearable to me.
This stuff has all the tropical, exoticism of Ylang but with a Guerlain type restraint not being as carnal or OTT, or "YAS QWEEN" as some Ylan ylang perfumes. Don't think that this stuff is a slouch or doesn't hit you in the face in the opening with a candy, banana/pineapple, waxy, super femme flowery vibe... because totally does. However, as I mentioned it's tempered and just gets nicer and nicer as it dries down displaying more powdery, deep, Wasser genius. Now I tend to like Ylang when it's coupled with jasmine or it's with bigger more amber bases just because they tend to warm up and seem less flowery on me. This one has somewhat of that aspect but really it's quite light and cheerful but without lacking substance. I'm surprised how wearable I found it, however it's still not for me to wear but I still give it the highest praise and If you like Guerlain and exotic florals this might just be the holy grail for you? If I smelled this on a woman, I'd find it very classy and alluring...whatever that is worth? Update: 06/09/21 I can't get this perfume out of my head. It's stayed with me and that is pretty rare. I actually rate this as one of the best in this art and materials line, that's really saying something too because it's a really fine line of perfumes, with many classics. It's FANTASTIC! I might have to shell out the big bucks you know? For a YLANG perfume??? WTF??? Not my usual cup o tea, I need to try it again to make absolutely certain but I found it an exquisite, light, summery fragrance but with depth and a hint of warmth. Lovely stuff.
Wow! I hadn't revisited this line in some time and I don't even think this wasn't even released the last time I did? Neroli and I have a strange love/hate thing going on but I'm increasingly a lover of all things neroli and orange blossom. This is ultimately about three vital elements and I don't need any list of notes or ingredients to tell me that Tea, Neroli, and petitgrain feature in this beautiful perfume. A long lasting vaguely metallic, smoky tea note, is what the dry down leaves you with but the opening has that green element I love about authentic and well judged neroli perfumes (I adored Abel's Golden Neroli for this) coupled with the unmistakable, substantive citrus smell of petitgrain. Now I associate this line with having the same vanilla theme running through them and although not overt and perhaps imagined? I detect the rounding effect and smoothness associated with it rather than overt sweetness or anything. This is sublime perfume and really prominent with tea after several hours. I thought it was inspired and a welcome break from the Neroli portofino, soapy type Neroli's this is just in a whole other class of it's own.
This is an unusual fragrance in that the Powdery ionones are cold and green, almost geranium or rose like, the violet sweetness only just rears it's head as it settles right in. There's clearly a clean, musky oud at the back of that maleki variety, (AdP Calonia Oud or Guerlain Santal Royal) but dialled right back again. It's a interesting oud but I don't like it and I'd never choose to wear it. Update: I thought to myself what a bizarre old review this is, but it's only from last year. Can't believe I thought this was 'oud-like' in the vain of a Colonia or Santal or Oud Maleki because it really isn't upon wearing it today. It's more of a rough sawn, sandalwood joss stick with some pot pouri and a definite nutmeg note. I don't mean any of these things is a bad way, It's a very appealing fragrance and not as piercing or odd as the oud dominated comparisons I made first time around, in fact oud and synth oud purists would be annoyed that it's got oud in the title. Re:Update: I was thinking what does this remind me of? I'm really not sure? Then it hit me, and it's only a very mild association, Tom Ford's Noir for men which is a fantastic, dark complex fragrance and this is not that at all nor is it as round and smooth as Noir.
The general feeling here is that this is a pretty good release, I found it really hard to make my mind up. It's got nods back to the nineties with a feeling that there's been a modernisation or freshening up of the format, little twists which make this recognisably 'new' It reminds me of the original Eternity's lavender soap vibes (a little) but with Paco Rabanne XS and Tommy Boy (maybe the apple note?) but there's this nubuck suede accord in there too, it's a complex aromatic/fougere opening that's for sure. What I like about this is the 'aftershave' masculinity of it, it's not trying to be anything special and as such I have a tender spot for it...but is it 'good'?? Nah!Not really...I much prefer the sharper, fresher more consistent vibes of Paco's XS. Also the campaign posters feature Jake Gyllenhal who I think is a very talented actor and a comes over in interviews as a seemingly, likeable, humble sort of character...but conversely fashion conscious and doesn't half love to shift units for 'the man'! I'm not saying this shows a lack of integrity I mean good luck to him it's easy work I imagine?
I like this. A fragrance buddy sent a sample of this to me and he was raving about how great it is. I don't quite share that enthusiasm but do you know what? It's decent. Everything I've tried from Yves Rocher is really competent and reasonably priced. This doesn't make my heart sing but it delivers a cozy warming winter fragrance which has a coumarin heavy vibe without being soupy or overly cloying. There's a light vanillic hay after an opening which is pretty complex mixture of the resinous and what can only be described as a designer like citrus accord. Lasts well but doesn't have any shocking, next level "OMG I can't believe this is available at this price point???" moments.
This is a prime example of the kind of fragrance that wowed me off the bat, but I doubt I'd ever enjoy wearing it. Actually no...it didn't. (wow me that is) I tried it in store ages ago and it never really floated my boat. However upon revisiting I have to say that the opening is spectacular because you get that rum soaked wood effect, a kind of gourmand smokiness too. You can tell the cacao is there from the get go but it grows and grows as the rum dies away making for a very unique smelling fragrance. 'Unique' doesn't always equal good and I find this unwearable as the cacao and vanilla take hold, the bitter element with the sweetness is incredibly well judged I have to say, but it's cloying for a different reason. An unusual cloy. The vanilla facets with booze is just a classic combo and I can see why people who like this will adore it. I just don't myself. It settles to skin quickly but you do get wafts and it does last well but those wafts irritated me, I wish they didn't so much because I want to love this fragrance I really do.
I can't help myself with this one, I appreciate why it might be considered scratchy & screechy and send folks running for the hills, with it's plastoc vibes and 'in your face' volume. I kinda like that about 1.3. It smells like excitement and nervous anticipation to me, it's alive, sharp and no nonsense. It reminds me of the smell approaching selfridges perfume counter, a brutal mixture of all the various smells and molecules mixing in the air. It's a hardcore sweet, jammy, metallic rose opening then immediately a nose tingling saffron note which pairs perfectly. I mean lets face it 1.3 isn't breaking any new ground but it's retreading some likeable ground very proficiently. The saffron in this kind of fragrance does smell leathery (kind faux, patent leather too) but also more like real saffron fronds than a saffron tincture does. I'm assuming this is an accord made from synthetics? but doesn't smell like the signature saffraleine either. Then there's the oud like element which is definitely apparent both real and synthetic with a kind of harsh, resinous, plastic feel. I kinda love this because as familiar as it feels and as much like an oud/rose/saffron that it is.... I can't actually site any reference to what it smells similar to? I'm genuinely tempted as I've seen this for a cheap price but I know I'd get sick of it after a few hours, and I'd have to wear it as a show piece for going out or something...it's too loud for casual wear I feel.
I'd never tried anything from Daniel Josier (here's where I look back and discover a review from 5 years ago) and I was expecting some rich, quality bizzness and that's what I got. The initial spray for me is honey sweet, sticky, balsamic and laden with spicy goodness. It's a little like TF Tobacco Vanille but then becomes more cinnamon spiced and a complete dead-ringer for Oajan by PdM (or vice versa?) and that is a fragrance I love and own a bottle of. To separate the two I'd say this opens more full on and sweet than Oajan but also simultaneously more full bodied and tobacco like when dried down. Oajan is a bit less turbulent and gives fewer 'looks' or facets to me. Ambre Tabac seems to flip, smelling more spicy one minute then to more sweet, ambery then tobacco like. However, this is nickpicking (they are effectively Identical) and could be fantasy because I've not tried them side by side but I know Oajan pretty well having had a bottle the last several years and put a hefty dent in it from repeated winter wearing. Lasts well and smells of something I love deeply, so this is a winner for me.
This has had some fanfare...I mean Malle fans going crazy about Ellena releasing a new Editions de Parfum. The Ellena retrospective at Pitti this year, Malle himself doing a IG Live Q&A about this release, seems like it's been everywhere recently. So unusual how different people perceive fragrances, I get much less geranium or a geraniol rose than the votes here suggest other people do. It's not quite jammy sweet either, but combined with Ellena's signature fruity vibes gives a strawberry/red berry smell which is light and playful. Now couple that (or Juxtapose it?) with the Isobutyl Quinoline which BTW you can smell right from the opening, giving this a dry, leather like accord. It's actually well handled as you'd expect from Malle with a master perfumer at the helm but what is this obsession with fruity/fresh tops and leather bases? FM Promise is exactly the same concept and maybe it's just me but I'm not feeling it. I mean it's okay, I'm not trashing it and the concept of leather and roses is a good one, but I just had a feeling Ellena wouldn't do a Morillas Gucci Guilty Absoulte PH. By that I mean come with some uncharacteristically 'balls out' heavy rose & Intoxicating leather smasher like a Portrait of a Lady or Carnal Flower, instead opting to produce something much more inkeeping with his style. That's what he's done here, a cheerful rose perfume with a hint of leather that feels modern and evokes red, transparent cellophane in my mind. There could be those that think this is great and I can't argue taste, but I found it a little disappointing considering the hype.
I hate commenting on new 'female' releases as I figure my opinion is less valid as they are clearly not aimed at me and I should just remain in my wheelhouse. However, it's not in my nature to do that, and I thought Libre sucked...HARD! No only kidding, but have YSL created a perfume so bland and (hate this cliche but...) crowd pleasing that I couldn't even focus on it for a second? Reminiscent of that episode of Father Ted with the Priest with the most boring voice in Ireland.:) I love Orange blossom (now) and I can't say that this has the waxy majesty, but there you go. The opening is a orange/fig sort of citrus, aldehyde, into a white flowery heart which I never felt had a great deal of intrigue. The drydown was light with a mild sweetness, not too sweet and inevitably butched up on my skin compared to that of ladies no doubt. I'd have to test Libre again to assess the sheerness and feminine vibes but NOTHING about this perfume grabbed me and I'm someone who has a history of enjoying YSL's femme roster, Rive Gauche and Cinema being case in point.
Here's the lowdown on Teddy. It's not very good. I'm sorry Penhaligon's I'm a fan of the brand but many of this line are poorly conceived, poorly executed and not up to the standard of the regular line. Taste wise this fragrance is well up my street though. I impressed the lady in the store when identifying pink pepper in the opening. I don't know why she was impressed it's so blatant it's unbelievable, and as a schinus molle enthusiast I should be jumping for joy, especially in a broadly modern, unapologetically unnatural type of composition...but something about this isn't that great. Teddy lacks depth, it's that simple. The opening is a spicy, incense accord and for all the pink pepper and actually a cumin/caraway character creeping in, it feels a little flat and lifeless. Teddy didn't last very well on my skin either. I'm sorry because the Rhino stopper is one of the coolest so far. I have a sample so I guess I'll wear it again properly but I doubt my opinion will change. UPDATE: Let this serve as a reminder not to judge to hastily based on a spritz on your hand in store. To be fair I did state that I loved pink pepper and incense and that Teddy smelled great in the opening, but like some 'bro' Youtuber I got all fixated on 'performance' and value for money. I stick to what I said about the line and Penhaligon's pushing out the releases as if they are on some treadmill, but Birsch's efforts here are decent and Teddy is a fascinating, sparkly pink pepper and incense accord which smells remarkably sweet airy, with a hint of leather tinged smoke, smooth but with some jagged angularity to it. It's fresh and uplifting to me, not quite as much as some (cruely) Olibanum based incense because it has slightly more heft, Labdanum and frankincense being prominent. Truth is I'd rather have this than the one I own Lord George and I'm reasonably fond of George so that's praise indeed.
I remember when these came out not so long ago and I tried them in store. They clearly didn't burn into my permanent memory banks because I'm revisiting them now but I recall this was a favourite. Also a friend of mine sent me a picture message out of the blue of a bottle of this saying how much she adored it and that I must try it. Well she was right! Kensington amber is as far up my street as you can get, beautiful sharpness in the opening of honied sweet resins and oriental goodness. Then a piercing cinnamon note giving more warmth but definition, highlighting the edges of the amber. A lightly hay like dryness and vanilla of tonka bean plumps out an already heavy smell. Like all good ambers it dries down to vanilla, either from the vanilla nature of Styrax benzoin itself or even more quality vanilla underneath? Obviously I love fragrances like this, they're my bread n butter but does this really have that je ne sais quoi? ALMOST it does but not quite. I will have to wear it more extensively.
Okay so this fragrance is nice, but it's in the vein of lots of the fragrances mentioned in the 'smells like bit...' in fact it reads like a who's who of what I was thinking. Say what you like about Penhaligon's performance or fragrance that aren't particularly noteworthy, but they are almost always complex and original. Marlybone wood simply isn't and there's nothing wrong with that, it's more gourmand and not quite as dark as a blcak afgano but that is the yardstick really isn't it. This is more inline with Carner Cuirs, again a fantastic fragrance which comprises than playdoh element, resins and oud with a hint of hashish to create a remarkably sticky, icky fragrance. This has the Labdanum upfront that Green Bubble by Jusbox also possesses, so good spot whoever else voted that but really is this anything of note? I'll pass it by thanks. I'm never one to say that a fragrance is completely redundant and this 'style' isn't oversubscribed yet...but it's heading that way. However, with my positive hat on I'd say it's because it's a popular theme.
Tricked my nose a little to begin with I got a smooth vanilla, synth orris maybe even ambrette/musk mallow sort of vibe? Then a wool, warm cashmere woods, and the second time I applied it Pierre was much sharper and more straight forward in the opening...it's a tricky fragrance. Definitely a kind of synth woody amber and that milky sweetened fougere vibe of a Le Male/Reflection man starts to creep in as it dries down. It's okay, not great though.
