Latest User Reviews

"Let me stand next to your fire...." "Let me stand next to your fire....Let me stand baby... Oh hi! It's you. I was just singing some Jimi Hendrix, because I might as fucking well! Y'know keep myself entertained. The name says this to me. Fire!!! Passion. All that stuff... the perfume says... Nothing burning. Nothing particularly desirable. I'd like to be all melodramatic and leave it there but in truth this is a nice, fruity, floral perfume (sound familiar to the rest of the femmes in this line?) which smells a touch tropical for a moment, the accord even hints at the fleshy, juiciness of mango or something. Ultimately though it's nondescript. Warmed through with musks, it's pleasant but pointless to me. Take a fragrance which is very similar in terms of style, Parle moi de parfums, Chypre Mojo, that thing demands that you take note of it and it's kookiness. This next one is a slightly worse example because the combo with lavender is inspired but....Malle's Music for a while, the pineapple note in that is like syrup, it sticks in my mind and I can't help but be impacted by it. I doubt I'll remember what this smelled like tomorrow. See I'm not apposed to light fruity florals and if that's all this brand wanted to achieve with this release then fine, but I believe hardcore perfume fans will demand a little more. That's By Orlov's market isn't it? I can see these being heavily discounted at some point.

6 years ago

These names are killin' me. Hope. Okay I guess that's fair, it's not the worst name in this collection. (I do own a fragrance called hope come to think of it) Yeah, it's a pleasant floral fragrance which if you really pay attention to the top notes (I've applied it a few time now) you do get that piquant sweetness of pink pepper, but it's VERY fleeting, remarkably so actually, then develops a, peachy floral then more of a lightly woody musk with a touch of earth, just redeeming it from the brink of being completely redundant and boring. Only just though, it's still in keeping with the overall theme (certainly of the women's ones) of just being light and not especially memorable. Sometimes osmanthus can be a mildly peach scented afterthought but increasingly it's featuring in bolder compositions and while this isn't really one of them, it's nice. It's just nice. Feminine, soft, I'd never dream of wearing it, but it's nice.

6 years ago

Good vibes. Seriously? That was the best name you could come up with? I mean there's nothing wrong with it I suppose, but what's right with it? that's what I'd like to know. Almost entirely bored by this. It's a happy, fruity, floral. Nothing more. Nothing really to see here.

6 years ago

Loved Empower you! Yeah, I'm being nice about By Orlov! This is a sharp, fizzing citrus of grapefruit and lemon, over light cologne heart of delicate florals and dries down to a vague musk. Okay it's not setting the world alight but the opening really is something and the citrus is nicely extended throughout the composition. I can't knock it!!! Okay I'll try.... the name is silly. Empower who? Me? Minor criticism though.

6 years ago

Preamble: So allow me to not be very nice about these perfumes, hopefully in a very short and concise way. I had nothing against the brand previous to this, in fact I really enjoyed a couple of their previous back cat. I feel this 'By...' collection has somewhat missed the mark and the names rubbed me up the wrong way, the samples were 'free' from the website but actually postage from France was pretty pricey so....not really but that's just for starters . I gave a huge ranting explanation on IG so I'm not going to put too fine a point on it here, I was just disappointed by the lack of imagination of these. They're competent perfumes and I even liked a couple out the eight released, and I'm not saying every new perfume should be a groundbreaking, art piece, but some collections feel like they've just been cynically jizzed out for the sake of it. Sorry. It's a crowded market and unless you are bringing the ruckus, then kinda don't bother. This was the first one I tired and it's so saccharine sweet and reminiscent of every silly, screeching, jammy sweet, oud rose, evoking Montale or Mancera to me straight away. Rose perfumes, simply don't have to be this. I couldn't wear this, it's toooooooooo much. The vanillic qualities are brutal, the rose is brutal, the metallic musky qualities are brutal, the strength and tenacity are brutal. The nuance.... non existent. It's hard for me not to 'like' it because it's not an unpleasant smell per se and after about 10 hours when mellowed, sure it's kinda alright, but I don't think I could see it through those initial hours without feeling sick as a dog. If you're a fan of this kind of turbo oud rose that's been set fast in sugar syrup, then go ahead, but please don't wear it around me. Finally, There's a few ways the name could be interpretated. 1) Out of the box...The creative cliche. the dated, buzzword/sales speak to mean this is a rose perfume which gains it's inspiration from 'outside the box' , the metaphorical 'box' of conformity. 2) It's an entirely, on the nose, ironically knowing title, because it's clearly not thinking outside the box is it? 3) Totally post modern, hyper honest title about an off the shelf formula with not a bone of creativity or originality in it's body.... 'yeah guys, we just got it out of the box at the lab at IFF or Symerise.' You be the judge!

6 years ago

Cuir Fetiche

I get the connections to tabac blond ad Cuir canage but I'd say it's like a subtle, more elegant Knize ten. Also Creed's royal english leather gets a mention in the smells like, well I think the commonality here is the floral, leather base the wonderful waxy Cuir 17500. Now I'm not saying that it is definitely present, but it has the same creamy, orangeblossom/jasmine/ylang waxiness, and fleshy, smooth, iris, leather, quality which that base possesses. Any iteration and augmentation of this vibe, fascinates me. I find this to be floral but nowhere near as brutal ad full on as the Dior, neither is it Knize ten with it's masculine, soapier appeal. Cuir fetiche goes off in search of new ground and is largely successful at finding it in the shape of a more powdery feel than anything I've easily compared it to above. The fact that I don't find it redundant, and the change between opening and drydown is noticeable, (handy in this sort of fragrance) means that this is a winner for me. Another good outing from the house.

6 years ago

Bahiana

This fragrance reminds me in spirit of Batucada by L'Artisan while not smelling like it really, other than being a kind of fresh, fruity, cologne, scent. I get the subtlety and mild creaminess of lactones, which lends a slight coconut quality supporting essentially a mild green, citrus, musk. I really enjoyed it to be honest. Bahiana was all set to be a snorefest but it actually has some really endearing qualities and dries down to a beautiful base, which retains the fresh top notes.

6 years ago

Ambre Mythique

So the ambers from this house are a interesting bunch, I doubt they'd have three or four if each didn't have something unique to say. I actually think that ambre mythique is my favourite upon a quick sniff. This is not a overly sweet amber, but the vibes of precieux are there, but the focus here is more on the incense aspect and that alive, zing but greasy medicinal feel of olibanum and the uncompromising heady myrrh, carefully woven in. I have to wear this properly to continue this review but the way resins are handled is really well considered.

6 years ago

Patchouli 1969

I'm starting to appreciate patchouli perfumes in a whole new way from my dalliances into amateur perfumery. In a technical sense it's hard to extend and exalt patchouli and yet conversely it's also a very forgiving material, which blends very well with many other materials. It's either in a crucial support role, or it's the star of the show (like in this instance) and in order to get depth and do something interesting with it, you have to know what you're doing. I think this one is stunning, I really do. The quality here is astonishing. It's deep but it's not a heavy or hippy patchouli despite the kind of Hendrix-esque packaging of psychedelic, paisley. I get sandalwood, and discrete support, perhaps some resins, just helping to soften the hard bits and sharpen the duller aspects of patchouli. The result is a very fluid, smooth experience of smoky earth and mild, damp, camphor to sweeter truffle (I kinda mean mushroom and chocolate) the opening is actually quite bright, perhaps orange like? Then held down both warm and sweet with musks and resin. I think it's divine and my wardrobe is criminally under-subscribed with patchouli fragrances I can think of Zino and L'Instant homme and that's about it folks. This is really good for patch fans and just fans of nicely balanced perfume. I think if you are expecting a really, witchy, next level, power patchouli you would look elsewhere but still it can't be denied that this is one of if not the finest in this genre, certainly that I've ever sniffed. UPDATE:07/07/21 I think I forgot to say how much a lovely rose note is actually part of this composition, but it's quite veiled by all the Patchouli.

6 years ago

Soie Rouge

So I'm revisiting this brand after many years and they were actually among the first niche perfumes I tried with L'Artisan, Serge, Goutal, and Nicolai. I found this one fascinating, partly because it's transition from slightly bizarre, not so rouge, pineapple, fruity musk fragrance, into a kind of rose/geranium and probably my favourite floral, carnation fragrance is nothing short of miraculous. Genuinely not fond of the opening, has an 'off' sense to it but that's just the wonderful, clove tinged, creamy scent that emerges underneath possibly not jiving with the tropical top notes?? I'm not sure. I liked it when settled after an hour or so. I don't get the comparisons to Rochas femme, other than a carnation note there's no similarities to me but there you go.

6 years ago

L’Ambre Des Merveilles

Hermès

The problem with this line is a bewildering array of flankers which, similar to Guerlain if you're not paying attention can be a little alienating. I do try them from time to time but can never remember which one is which. Minor, minor issue because I love the original Elixir and I'm completely smitten with this one!!! It's absolutely BRILLIANT!!! The opening is curious mixture of citrus and fizzy confectionery, like an orange, juicy and real meeting a sharp, pink grapefruit with some powdered refreshers thrown in for good measure, a perfect mix of reality and fantasy. The best thing about this fragrance is the use of an amber accord which is bolstered by gourmand effects, the chunk of patchouli but not as weighed down by it as some compositions, JCE manages to keep it light with top notes which seem to morph into the mid and remain for a while. Mention caramel to me in a fragrance and I can feel my teeth aching and my cloying, gag reflex started to engage at the prospect of smelling bisabolene or ethyl maltol all day, but this is soooooo well done it's smooth balanced perfectly in the way only a master the calibre of Ellena could. It's a bit like Angel but with huge amounts of restraint, and totally different. I find it gorgeous and always have said that Elixir smelled as though it's perfectly unisex but I think this one is a little more feminine. I'm fine with that, I'm wearing the shit out of it today and contemplating a full bottle (finally im going to get something from this line!) L'ambre is a very, very, good wear. I love it!

6 years ago

So when I unfurled my little sweetie wrapped sample and read the description of Shazam! I'd expected something a touch heavier on the amber/cacao side of things. Well no let's backtrack a little. Before I even spritzed it I gave it to my partner to try, she read the description knowing nothing about the brand, Then she said in a challenging tone "hmmmm well we'll see if it smells like Marrakesh shall we?" (She's been to Morocco a few times see) Instantly upon spritzing she was like 'OMG! It does!!!' Needless to say she adores it to the point she wants a bottle right away! but also added that it reminded her of being brutally massaged in a steam room by a 18 stone lady, with arms like an Olympic shot-putter. Which just made me really want to go to Morocco now. Anywho... this is a really lovely and well judged composition from Sarah. I reckon that the general creaminess of the amber accord in here sits right with the incense wood and mildly spiced nature of the top notes and the freshness of that kind of orange opening. Really liked it, update when I've worn it properly.

6 years ago

Chris Rusak

A little perplexed at where my review of this is? I'm sure I penned one way back when I first tried this but never mind. I can't really add much more than some of the brilliant reviews below, don't take my word for how good Io is, just read theirs. Io is my favourite creation from Chris and I will always associate him with resins and specifically the coulter pine resin that he gathers himself from his home in California. It's very weird smelling stuff, oddly sweet and almost myrrh like toffee and vanilla nuance, but highly medicinal and starkly modern smelling, like scotch tape or brown parcel tape. Not sure if it features heavily in Io but it's laden with resins regardless, translucent, and sepia stained and with a twang which replicates saffron in heat and impact, but not smell. As for the feel... This fragrance depicts an almost post apocalyptic, sci-fi landscape, the Dune novels, Tatooine, Mad Max, or ("get your ass to...") Mars. A barren, parched, place. I can hear sweeping, analogue synth pads and piercing, mock native riddims, or less cerebral and representing Io's rougher side, dusty, southern rock, like Kyuss or Clutch. The dry woodiness supplied by a smokey, lightly peppered, cedar and earthy tones but not bogged down or big smokey OD's. I like Chris's work and he's actually very eclectic despite having quite an uncluttered and minimal aesthetic. I said I feel he has an affinity with wood and earthy materials but that's perhaps because I haven't sampled his more floral offerings. He has control over his materials, unlike some indy perfumes that produce heavy soups & stews, he prefers to let the naturals have a little breathing space within a minimal, synthetic construction, and the mixed media approach is working for him. I think Io is a triumph, shame I didn't put my money where my mouth is now it's all gone. :(

6 years ago

Those who think this is like Salome or Tabu, what brand of crack are you smoking? Even when my fragrance collecting pal shared with me her vintage bottle of Bal a Versailles, as part of my intro to classic perfumery (this one is not even that old in the grand scheme but a classic nonetheless) all those years ago, I don't recall it as being as animal and edgey as the slabs of sex which are Dana Tabu or Liz Moores Salome. In any case I felt I needed to review this as it's one of the many classics I've neglected to pop a review on, because well...there's only so many hours in the day, but a sample of a modern bottle was long over due so here goes. The opening is the swirl of notes you'd expect from chypre citruses, to heady labdanum, peru/tolu cinnamon coke quality this is still a really beautiful, complex scent. It then dries to something resembling a sheer, nightie of an amber. It's basically a tarted up Bain de Caron, with a strange almost rubber, herbal, fougere accord. I bought Cologne Intense from Houbigant recently and that has a similar, furrow or nose dive in it. Almost on the edge of unpleasantness but with a creamy clove note to it also and amber being warmed by spices. I think I've touched on almost every perfume genre there, but that's kinda what Bal a Versailles is, even in it's current incarnation. I have to say that I'm not one to bemoan 'performance' this is a beautiful perfume I enjoy wearing but it's just not as bold as the my recollection of the old bottles, so I'm not in a huge hurry to get it, even though it has a great quality to value ratio. I've not really got a bad thing to say about it.

Monsieur Rochas Eau de Toilette Concentree

6 years ago

Rochas

Finished my bottle of this long ago and was delighted that I took some time out from acquiring new stuff this Christmas and got an old classic. Couldn't be more classic than this. Guy Robert one of my favourite perfumers, my dad wore it yada yada... And not to delve too deep into the composition because to me it's an unassuming powdery, leather scent which in fairness being from 1968 actually predates many of the things you might be able to compare it to, no doubt it supersedes some too. I love the powdered nature of Robert's work with little gems and treats poking out. This has a the mild clove sensation of carnation and while thinking about it a bit longer, Equipage is not a bad comparison, but these are vastly different to those who study the masculine classics and can do a deep dive into what is the same seemingly rehashed accords of leather, wood, musk and herbal elements. The top notes have faded a touch on this vintage but only mildly I still get a citrus, bergamot/lemon but quite muted until it properly builds up and it only takes a minute for the glory to strike. There's a mild greeness too I think there's galbanum in there and a geranium effect created by the powder and also like a version of the peachy chypre notes of Robert's Caleche albeit a much more butch take. It all sits in this lovely leathery range. It's magnificent, starts out great and just gets better, it's not a huge impacting scent or a life changer, but it's a steady pair of hands.

6 years ago

So this one is 'Overtake 320' and at first (despite liking it's themes) I was like ahhhh this is the overly sweet, gourmand, BOMB of the group and it sort of is, but that's not the whole story. The opening is full of that Mugler, caramel sweetness and candy floss I associate with ethyl maltol but here it's not crude, it's actually very carefully done and much better than sickly stuff like Shay & Blue's Salted Caramel for instance. This is because it develops into dry woody accords not dissimilar to the first two of this collection but always gives warm (what is said to be a tonka bean) vibe in this. I suppose it does smell a bit coumarinic and coffee tinged but it doesn't go all vanillin or vanilla heavy or creamy, it maintains distance from it's sweeter potentially cloying elements. It's like one of those 'Sexy' or 'Night' perfumes of the Men's game a few years ago, but less sledgehammer. I say all this having only sprayed it on a test strip, so not the best way to review but I will update if required. Oh don't be fooled by their representation on here (Fragrantica), the bottle shown (gold one) is part of an exclusive special edition version made from a choice of Stainless steel, titanium, and a gold plated ( the one pictured here) three different designs all of which are AMAZING!!! However, they are 3D printed and the technology for metal 3D printing is absolutely cutting edge and as such these incredible flacons cost a whopping $10k each! so unless you have an F1 drivers salary, it's unlikely any mortal 'fraghead' can afford the bloody things. So just to note then that the 'normal' bottles (retail at £195) which are AMAZING too (just not like the pictured one is my point) are also 3D prinnted but from a much more affordable resin material, in a kind of biomech latticework which reminds me of a combination of muscle tissue, HR Geiger artwork or Cronenberg's New flesh, and the roof of that fancy art gallery/museum in Dubai. I want one quite badly they are seriously COOL!!!

Les Absolus d'Orient Patchouli Ardent

6 years ago

Guerlain

Another huge success for this line in the sense that it's Wasser delivering an exquisite fragrance, truly. However, I'm not going to give it a glowing appraisal for a couple of reasons. The main one being that I was expecting patchouli ardent to show us some exciting and dominant take on patchouli, perhaps a little naive of me to think that Guerlain would all of a sudden stray from keeping things friendly and aesthetically, just so. I kinda did though. So I'd say I actually like this one better than one I own from this line, the oud, which to me is fairly uneventful (never bland), but plugs into the whole comforting aspect of why I like a nice, minimal musk fragrance for example, it's unobtrusive and I'm unlikely to get fatigued by it. Patchouli ardent does definitely have an earthy patchouli lean to it in the start of the fragrance but it seems like it's such an amalgam of some of the others in this line, a thread running from the musc and amber right through encens and bois. So really patchouli ardent is a musky, rose fragrance with a kind of heady, airy, incense trail, darkened by a shade of patchouli, mainly manifesting when you first spray it. Like I said it's glorious, lovely, lasts forever & all that stuff but there's just no pleasing some people (me sometimes) and I'd hoped for more patchouli, and something I could gush over and need in my collection. I wanted a hyped up, muscular, Givenchy Gentlemen or Zino Davidoff re-imagined and elevated to the level of this collection not just from a quality standpoint (because frankly it hits that high water mark) but from a creativity point of view too. If you call it patchouli I want to bludgeoned with patchouli in some sense, and this didn't do it. Is it good? Yes it might even be great! Would I buy it? probably not. I will investigate this further because I shouldn't keep writing reviews based on spraying it on my wrist once, and I will concede that you can only get to know a fragrance properly through wearing (multiple times if possible) but also sometimes you have to respect that when someone has tried a lot of perfumes their intuition is pretty good and they can extrapolate out the full experience (not always accurately) but most of the time a fragrances destiny is sealed from that first few hours of trying on skin.

Onder de Linde (Melkmeisje)

6 years ago

Baruti

I think this is quite possibly one of the most important fragrances I've tried in a while. Something about wet, realistic florals of the Narcissus, lilac and hyacinth variety which stir me and the combination with strong also quite natural smells of the animalic, indolic or in this case naturally sweet, honey. It's quite a sickly piece of work, I mean the honey is so well realised it starts to go to caramelised, wheaty, grainy, bran like, heaviness and a feeling of beeswax too. Against this you have this wafting, dark floral undercurrent sweeping through the fragrance like the pungency of linden blossom (which I can't say I've ever smelled although it does grow in the UK so perhaps I have?) and apparently it is carried on the breeze for long distances. I get some spice a sort of traditional, sweet, creamy musk and vanilla body, even a mild clove, this is like musc ravageur meets kilian back to black in florists. Yet still there's something edger than those comparisons. My experience of Baruti was the oud fragrance, with no oud in it. A curious hit of oud characteristics, painfully sharp and bitingly resinous, I actually made an oud frgarance myself by combining and balancing all the oud bases I had and stuff which I associate with oud or fake oud. The results were quite similar, a searing stew that I suspect would be popular if released as it has the same beastmode, bro-down qualities of an TF Oud wood or an oud for greatness or Montale So I think Onder de linde is bewildering. Experienced sniffer that I am, I didn't realise what this was and afterwards I sort of staggered out of my first sniffing as if I'd agreed to fight an ageing Mike Tyson, only to discover I didn't want that Iron Mike smoke. So all this complementary stuff I'm saying is about a fragrance I don't think I could ever fancy wearing, but I respect the hell out of the person who does.

Rue Rance Eau Duc de Berry

6 years ago

Rance 1795

Okay so in the opening I actually get quite a lot of sweet, cassis and citrus with a nice, green sort of accord, very fresh and uplifting, I thought it was very striking. Then it dries out in a massive way, with a huge dose of spices but still showing restraint and the Declaration comparisons here start to make a lot of sense, and while the spicing is similar, I'd say a mixture of corriander, caraway/cumin and cardamom, declaration is much pricklier, sweatier and frankly bolder than this fragrance. The drydown of Rance goes to papery iso e super and ionone rather than declaration which seems to hold it's original vibes, much more completely. A little slug of coumarin or something in here gives this a fougere feel for a moment. I liked it initially but it fell a bit flat and not to moan, but it's not very strong or long lasting and ultimately a bit forgettable.

6 years ago

Right so I love Ruth's work and none of it so far lacks depth and layers, Dagian included. However, I don't like it. The opening is fresh, woody but it smells quite a lot like. I get notes of lime, grapefruit and petitgrain/orange blossom but punctuated heavily with green notes and then aquatics. The base is that slimy, melon, spunk, of salty diffuse woods and Calone or such like, marine/aquatic molecule or base. I'm not completely against these sorts of materials and if anyone could get the best out of it, I'd say it would be Ruth but it's a taste thing, some people are really taken with these aromas, I find them nauseating. The fact that the opening of salty, floral citrus greenery is pleasant is enough of a success but an hour or so in and all I can smell is Aquatic AC's. A rare miss in what is an exemplary collection of fragrances.

6 years ago

So Neandertal have two new Perfumes Us & Them, a sample of which they very kindly sent to me prior to the release (Thanks Brooke and Kentaro) however I still hadn't tried anything at all from the brand at that point, and I didn't really know what to expect. If I'm honest I'd been a little put off by the usual suspects and the seeming saturation of Youtube reviews when something new arrives on the scene. No matter, These are truly artistic from composition to brand concept and marketing, I don't want to be suckered in but I am, Neandertal is just cool. None moreso than 'them'. It's perfect. I couldn't ask for more. A beautiful, resplendent, mildly sweet, smooth, fleshy, leather perfume. I've recently taken up leather craft and this reminds me the most of veg tan, natural tooling leather, thick, glorious smelling and a blank canvas of possibility. This is like the best musk perfumes, minimal but little jewels poking out from a silky, mist of loveliness. In this case it's a sort of Iris/orris feel I suppose but unlike any other you've smelled before. The closest for me is Aedes de venustas Iris Nazarena, but in truth they are as different as they are similar. Them has fresh, vibrant top notes, which keep putting in an appearance after you'd think they'd be long gone. Then a sweetness, that orris theme punctuated by complementary carrot seed which I'm not surprised to see in the notes, such a fine use in here. Then you have a mild sea spray, but not salty or aquatic just a breathy, animal suggestion of ambergris. It reminds me of a trendy Scandinavian furniture store where everything is posh, arty, minimal, low slung cubist, buttery leather sofas and the air smells of wood and leather. Guys this is a leather perfume, we can break down the individual aspects and call it orris and carrot and citrus and whatever but its a fiercely modern minimal pebble of a contruction that conveys leather much more realistically and effectively that a hit of IBQ, saffraliene, birch tar or castoreum. This is clever, clever, clever, by a brilliant perfumer that my pal from Edinburgh told me about ages ago....I should've paid more attention to her. So Euan McCall is something of a revelation to me at this point,his other efforts for the brand are great too but THEM just transcends perfume into a special territory of had to have, adoration for me. Beautiful perfume and comes in a frosted, icicle of a flacon, pure art!

6 years ago

So first of all this is not my first Swedoft but I'm posting reviews out of synch, sadly of the two I tried this just so happens to be the one I didn't like. Okay so I bought these on name alone and haven't consulted with the notes, and smelling the sprayer before application, just the remnants, emanating from it smell of cacao to me. I'm expecting a rich, dark amber woody vanilla perhaps? Then upon application the opening has dense, fruity, date and cherry tobacco notes, and somewhat chocolatey but nowhere near to the extent I'd thought from the pre-cum/nozzle sniff. I don't really like it, and as it develops becomes more like TF tobacco vanille, a fragrance I own but truly can't abide anymore. There's something rough about it's honied themes which turns almost sharp, pickled and with a kind of vinegary effect. It's tough. So I'm not a fan, and just judging by these two, Swedoft are throwing a lot at a composition.

6 years ago

Let's get something straight about RBalkris' review below. I strongly disagree that there's other rose perfumes on the market even at a fraction of the price. Respectfully my friend, that is bollocks! Sure you could get yourself a Montale or a Mancera or some Arabic brand for cheap but it wouldn't even come close to this. Now call me a Les Indemodables fanboy but I don't care, this is an earth shatteringly good, rose perfume!!! As much as I love musc des sables, Rose de Jamal is my favourite from the line. Simple. It's monumentally subtle and nuanced, seemingly quite cool and minimal too, not a full bodied rose plonk, or searing jammy sweet thing. The most peculiar thing about it is that I tried it before and didn't quite have this response. I don't know if my nose was fatigued or what but I enjoyed it, thought it was a very decent rose but didn't understand it properly, until sampling again a few months later. Not meaning to be reductive but if you like Lyric Man by Amouage I believe this will blow your mind. It will. The magnetic cap Lyric Man I have is not quite as good as the old original formula I remember but I think this is the ultimate example of that sort of vibe and despite the comparison, this is a highly original and cliche free rose perfume. It floats on the air with an effortless smoke trail to it, reminiscent of lightly spiced incense but at it's heart it's sweet, gorgeous rose, rounded and complex like a true otto, the body of this perfume is musky and milky pale, but also green, lush, fresh and energising. My favourite part is the discrete powdery feel throughout, giving nods to classic talcum powderish perfumes like a Caleche or Derby (perhaps bad examples but they came to mind) The best thing is that the Moroccan rose absolute is dosed at a perfect level to bring it's character to the table and Antoine Lie has expertly crafted a rose accord & perfume around it. I absolutely adore the stuff and a bottle is on the cards for me for Christmas.

6 years ago

Antoine Lie is renowned for a certain style to my nose at least, and I'd describe it as, creamy weirdness. However, this isn't creamy or weird it's yet more exemplary perfume from now undoubtedly, one of the best niche houses around at the moment, everything is a joy and Iris Perle is no exception. This is much more of the iris than it is orris, in that it captures the floral aspects primarily but has that fleshy, cosmetic orris, but arriving slightly later on. The opening reminded me of hyacinth or wet floral smell and greeness you get from jonquilles absolu or Narcissus but with that twist of mild violets, giving the iris flower illusion. It is simply stunning. Really good balance between powdery orris and bright floral, zing! Opens out to a subtly beautiful, lightly leathered orris. I love it.