They say that when a perfume suits you and you enjoy it, it simply works. The sillage is good, the longevity is good, it feels simply good wearing it. They say so, or am I saying so? I didn't have high hopes for Galop, and frankly I wasn't even interested in trying it, mostly for the price which is around 240€ for 50ml pure parfum. Plus, even though Hermès is quite elegant and distinctive, I'm not a fan of JCE, nor his transparent aquarelle signature. I feel that a house with such history could opt for a bolder trademark. But I'm afraid that belongs in the past with legends such as Doblis, Equipage, Bel Ami, Caleche... No matter how good or bad the reformulations, the quality is there but something is not; boldness. And surprisingly I found it in Galop. First standalone creation of Christine Nagel, it clearly follows the path created by Ellena in transparency and watercolor but it adds something more; a kick. While following the codes of Hermès, it adds a bit of sensuality, and shows that the nose behind follows the path but leads the way. And that's a good thing because Nagel isn't Ellena, and her creations have to show that. Galop opens on my skin with a rose water accord. Rose water that smells honeyed. I would have preferred a darker rose, but then again I'd also have preferred many things that aren't allowed in perfume today. Rose water, middle eastern style but without the cliche of oud, spicy saffron in small quantities and a leather accord that brings to mind older but not vintage Cuir de Russie, with a somewhat dirty soapiness, a facet of leather sometimes found in older creations that didn't rely on isobutyl quinolene. I don't get the quince and the osmanthous is barely there, just adding a slight juiciness in the same way Ellena's creations added a watery note. (The Nagel difference?) Although quite linear, I find it interesting. The interplay is between the rose dominance, the leather dominance, and a spicy ménage a trois that shows different facets during the day. I get the same notes along a nice not-so-clean musk that appears during mid development and stays throughout, finally showing a bolder leather at drydown. While modern and pleasing, it echoes the older Kelly Caleche and manages to smell elegant, slightly dirty, and appropriate for most occasions. It feels as a timid first attempt, but underneath it there are some interesting aspects that make me look forward to what mrs Nagel has to offer in subsequent creations. On my skin, there's excellent sillage and all day longevity, which I appreciate given the price asked. Don't approach it expecting a powerhouse because it is not, but there is something that shakes the image of the house a bit, and I'm sure it's just the beginning. Perfectly unisex (at least in Spain it's being promoted as such) and work friendly.
I'm revisiting a ton of fragrances from the classic designer houses at the moment namely Hermes and Chanel to reassess things that I really should own by now. Gallop was one I came across that I never got to upon it's release but the bottle definitely intrigued me and I've only just realised that it's shape is supposed to be that of a stirrup. duh! haha Anyway, I'm someone who gives the accord of leather such a broad ranging spectrum I'm inclined to incorporate even the least leathery, 'leather' into it. However, I'm not sure Gallop can be included? but if it was... maybe it has a vague undercurrent of floral/leather? If I said Knize Ten that would be misleading but I'm burying my nose into it to get what the kind of leather could be? It's more that than anything but if you have to stretch that hard to find it, the accord is clearly not prominent enough. So the main body is the opening notes of what I was going to describe as a watery fig like note, but not fig and apparently what I'm smelling there is quince, so there you have it. There's a light whisp of rose and a hint of powdered florals. I wasn't hugely taken with it, but Gallop is fresh, clean and doesn't seem to resemble much I've been exposed to so it's worthy of another try I think.