Latest User Reviews

Assistant Blog Fragletter About Us For Business Privacy Policy Terms Of Services Imprint API Access Connect AI Assistant

Search Fragrances Perfumers Brands Notes Accords Best Of Discussions Year Wrapped Compare Top Users

[email protected]Report Problem Propose Missing Perfume

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano Polski Português العربية हिन्दी 한국어 中文日本語

<
1
...
224
225
226
227
228
...
286
>

<
226 286
>

Histoires de Parfums This Is Not a Blue Bottle 1.3

This Is Not a Blue Bottle 1.3

Histoires de Parfums

I can't help myself with this one, I appreciate why it might be considered scratchy & screechy and send folks running for the hills, with it's plastoc vibes and 'in your face' volume. I kinda like that about 1.3. It smells like excitement and nervous anticipation to me, it's alive, sharp and no nonsense. It reminds me of the smell approaching selfridges perfume counter, a brutal mixture of all the various smells and molecules mixing in the air. It's a hardcore sweet, jammy, metallic rose opening then immediately a nose tingling saffron note which pairs perfectly. I mean lets face it 1.3 isn't breaking any new ground but it's retreading some likeable ground very proficiently. The saffron in this kind of fragrance does smell leathery (kind faux, patent leather too) but also more like real saffron fronds than a saffron tincture does. I'm assuming this is an accord made from synthetics? but doesn't smell like the signature saffraleine either. Then there's the oud like element which is definitely apparent both real and synthetic with a kind of harsh, resinous, plastic feel. I kinda love this because as familiar as it feels and as much like an oud/rose/saffron that it is.... I can't actually site any reference to what it smells similar to? I'm genuinely tempted as I've seen this for a cheap price but I know I'd get sick of it after a few hours, and I'd have to wear it as a show piece for going out or something...it's too loud for casual wear I feel.

0

7 years ago

Daniel Josier Ambre Tabac

I'd never tried anything from Daniel Josier (here's where I look back and discover a review from 5 years ago) and I was expecting some rich, quality bizzness and that's what I got. The initial spray for me is honey sweet, sticky, balsamic and laden with spicy goodness. It's a little like TF Tobacco Vanille but then becomes more cinnamon spiced and a complete dead-ringer for Oajan by PdM (or vice versa?) and that is a fragrance I love and own a bottle of. To separate the two I'd say this opens more full on and sweet than Oajan but also simultaneously more full bodied and tobacco like when dried down. Oajan is a bit less turbulent and gives fewer 'looks' or facets to me. Ambre Tabac seems to flip, smelling more spicy one minute then to more sweet, ambery then tobacco like. However, this is nickpicking (they are effectively Identical) and could be fantasy because I've not tried them side by side but I know Oajan pretty well having had a bottle the last several years and put a hefty dent in it from repeated winter wearing. Lasts well and smells of something I love deeply, so this is a winner for me.

1

7 years ago

Frederic Malle Rose & Cuir

This has had some fanfare...I mean Malle fans going crazy about Ellena releasing a new Editions de Parfum. The Ellena retrospective at Pitti this year, Malle himself doing a IG Live Q&A about this release, seems like it's been everywhere recently. So unusual how different people perceive fragrances, I get much less geranium or a geraniol rose than the votes here suggest other people do. It's not quite jammy sweet either, but combined with Ellena's signature fruity vibes gives a strawberry/red berry smell which is light and playful. Now couple that (or Juxtapose it?) with the Isobutyl Quinoline which BTW you can smell right from the opening, giving this a dry, leather like accord. It's actually well handled as you'd expect from Malle with a master perfumer at the helm but what is this obsession with fruity/fresh tops and leather bases? FM Promise is exactly the same concept and maybe it's just me but I'm not feeling it. I mean it's okay, I'm not trashing it and the concept of leather and roses is a good one, but I just had a feeling Ellena wouldn't do a Morillas Gucci Guilty Absoulte PH. By that I mean come with some uncharacteristically 'balls out' heavy rose & Intoxicating leather smasher like a Portrait of a Lady or Carnal Flower, instead opting to produce something much more inkeeping with his style. That's what he's done here, a cheerful rose perfume with a hint of leather that feels modern and evokes red, transparent cellophane in my mind. There could be those that think this is great and I can't argue taste, but I found it a little disappointing considering the hype.

0

7 years ago

Yves Saint Laurent Libre

Yves Saint Laurent

I hate commenting on new 'female' releases as I figure my opinion is less valid as they are clearly not aimed at me and I should just remain in my wheelhouse. However, it's not in my nature to do that, and I thought Libre sucked...HARD! No only kidding, but have YSL created a perfume so bland and (hate this cliche but...) crowd pleasing that I couldn't even focus on it for a second? Reminiscent of that episode of Father Ted with the Priest with the most boring voice in Ireland.:) I love Orange blossom (now) and I can't say that this has the waxy majesty, but there you go. The opening is a orange/fig sort of citrus, aldehyde, into a white flowery heart which I never felt had a great deal of intrigue. The drydown was light with a mild sweetness, not too sweet and inevitably butched up on my skin compared to that of ladies no doubt. I'd have to test Libre again to assess the sheerness and feminine vibes but NOTHING about this perfume grabbed me and I'm someone who has a history of enjoying YSL's femme roster, Rive Gauche and Cinema being case in point.

0

7 years ago

Penhaligon's Terrible Teddy

Here's the lowdown on Teddy. It's not very good. I'm sorry Penhaligon's I'm a fan of the brand but many of this line are poorly conceived, poorly executed and not up to the standard of the regular line. Taste wise this fragrance is well up my street though. I impressed the lady in the store when identifying pink pepper in the opening. I don't know why she was impressed it's so blatant it's unbelievable, and as a schinus molle enthusiast I should be jumping for joy, especially in a broadly modern, unapologetically unnatural type of composition...but something about this isn't that great. Teddy lacks depth, it's that simple. The opening is a spicy, incense accord and for all the pink pepper and actually a cumin/caraway character creeping in, it feels a little flat and lifeless. Teddy didn't last very well on my skin either. I'm sorry because the Rhino stopper is one of the coolest so far. I have a sample so I guess I'll wear it again properly but I doubt my opinion will change. UPDATE: Let this serve as a reminder not to judge to hastily based on a spritz on your hand in store. To be fair I did state that I loved pink pepper and incense and that Teddy smelled great in the opening, but like some 'bro' Youtuber I got all fixated on 'performance' and value for money. I stick to what I said about the line and Penhaligon's pushing out the releases as if they are on some treadmill, but Birsch's efforts here are decent and Teddy is a fascinating, sparkly pink pepper and incense accord which smells remarkably sweet airy, with a hint of leather tinged smoke, smooth but with some jagged angularity to it. It's fresh and uplifting to me, not quite as much as some (cruely) Olibanum based incense because it has slightly more heft, Labdanum and frankincense being prominent. Truth is I'd rather have this than the one I own Lord George and I'm reasonably fond of George so that's praise indeed.

0

7 years ago

Penhaligon's Kensington Amber

Kensington Amber

I remember when these came out not so long ago and I tried them in store. They clearly didn't burn into my permanent memory banks because I'm revisiting them now but I recall this was a favourite. Also a friend of mine sent me a picture message out of the blue of a bottle of this saying how much she adored it and that I must try it. Well she was right! Kensington amber is as far up my street as you can get, beautiful sharpness in the opening of honied sweet resins and oriental goodness. Then a piercing cinnamon note giving more warmth but definition, highlighting the edges of the amber. A lightly hay like dryness and vanilla of tonka bean plumps out an already heavy smell. Like all good ambers it dries down to vanilla, either from the vanilla nature of Styrax benzoin itself or even more quality vanilla underneath? Obviously I love fragrances like this, they're my bread n butter but does this really have that je ne sais quoi? ALMOST it does but not quite. I will have to wear it more extensively.

0

7 years ago

Penhaligon's Marylebone Wood

Marylebone Wood

Okay so this fragrance is nice, but it's in the vein of lots of the fragrances mentioned in the 'smells like bit...' in fact it reads like a who's who of what I was thinking. Say what you like about Penhaligon's performance or fragrance that aren't particularly noteworthy, but they are almost always complex and original. Marlybone wood simply isn't and there's nothing wrong with that, it's more gourmand and not quite as dark as a blcak afgano but that is the yardstick really isn't it. This is more inline with Carner Cuirs, again a fantastic fragrance which comprises than playdoh element, resins and oud with a hint of hashish to create a remarkably sticky, icky fragrance. This has the Labdanum upfront that Green Bubble by Jusbox also possesses, so good spot whoever else voted that but really is this anything of note? I'll pass it by thanks. I'm never one to say that a fragrance is completely redundant and this 'style' isn't oversubscribed yet...but it's heading that way. However, with my positive hat on I'd say it's because it's a popular theme.

0

7 years ago

Starck Peau de Pierre

Tricked my nose a little to begin with I got a smooth vanilla, synth orris maybe even ambrette/musk mallow sort of vibe? Then a wool, warm cashmere woods, and the second time I applied it Pierre was much sharper and more straight forward in the opening...it's a tricky fragrance. Definitely a kind of synth woody amber and that milky sweetened fougere vibe of a Le Male/Reflection man starts to creep in as it dries down. It's okay, not great though.

0

7 years ago

Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme Wood & Wood

L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme Wood & Wood

This fragrance had me excited after the Incense and Amber ones...I'm not actually sure this is part of that slightly elevated line being instead just a 'normal' flanker. That's the smell too, quite normal for a Miyake. The opening transported me to the nineties,(in a good way) the top notes of grapefruit are vivid, bitter, long lasting and a signature citrus spikiness of L'eau d'Issey. Wasn't surprised to see that among the notes here. Then there's the woods which come on in the drydown to a very dry, driftwood type of effect for me. It works with the citrus in the same way a lemon and tonic water works with gin. I do get a vaguely juniper like nuance from this giving it an edge of the GnT. However, I found it disappointing, the opening is nice but generic, the drydown has the character I mentioned, but it's not enough for me, something saps all the pleasure out of this fragrance until only a dry husk remains. It's okay but not all that good.

0

7 years ago

Emanuel Ungaro Emanuel Ungaro for Him

Emanuel Ungaro for Him

This fragrance is simply an abomination. Why? Why does it exist? I know how fragrance pricing works and the cost of manufacture but they're not even trying to hide the fact it's a dud because it's brand new and hit the shelves at bargain basement prices. The awful look of the bottle should've repelled me but I'm so curious and such a glutton for punishment I never dismiss anything....Imagine if it had have been amazing? I think to myself... Wishful thinking I'm afraid, Ungaro 'Art' is a monumental stinker. Now I'm not completely apposed to this kind of chintzy vibe, the playful hubba bubba undertone and hot pink hue and screech, but COME ON!!! Speaking of Screech the bottle 'artwork' if I dare to call it that looks like someone ate a 'Saved by the bell' & 'Fresh Prince...' back2back VHS tape and projectile vomited upon it's vulgar canister. I have to assume the name is ironic and the people who produced this god awful, noxious, fugg had their tongues firmly planted in cheek at the time. 'Art' ??? I mean it's an age old and thankless philosophical concept to unravel and I often come down on the liberal interpretation...everything is art. It's a problematic label though and while I might struggle to tell you what art is, I can much more easily tell you what it isn't. This fragrance is NOT ART. It takes this kind of stink to snap me out of my hippy fence sitting on the subject. I'd rather toke a bong of sarin gas or eat landfill to be honest. Everyone involved with this fragrance should be truly ashamed of themselves. Okay breaking character for a moment it's big, over sweet, bubblegum, tonka, thing which opens offensively but dries down...well... pretty offensively. It's not got the fairground charm or vaguely interesting theme's of Ultra Male. It's a low rent, cheap version of heavy 'night' scents with tonka or turbo coumarin, also Joop fragrances like the new Wow! and others but again makes them look accomplished. Is it really that bad?....no...but like come on? Are people really out there liking this? I mean there must be but why? I'm more annoyed with the lazy, cynical, anti artistry of this fragrance. I know, I know, it's not some artisan fragrance, (it's 'exclusive' in Superdrug FFS!) it's cheap and cheerful and not aimed at me...all that stuff but I'd like something in this category not to pander to trends and make something that's not just a big, sickening, soup for a change....is that too much to ask for?

0

7 years ago

Amouroud Wet Stone

This fragrance is superb and troubling. Ozonic in the opening it's complex metallic structure is certainly reminiscent of a wet stone for sure. Mineral rich, watery but earthy, and distinct maybe a touch of vetiver creating that smoky, flint effect representing the stone? If it was just all weird like this I'd dismiss it as an unwearable art piece but there's clearly a long lasting an pleasant citrus accord right from the get go. There's additionally the 'wet' part with a fixative, pleasant sweetness and unsettled synthetic ambergris note in this fragrance, adding to the warmth & naturalism but somehow conversely contributing to it's stark mininalism. It lasted FOREVER on my skin but isn't invasive by any means. It offered a bit of a challange for me as did all three of the White bottles in this line. Less so that the Vetiver and Hinoki ones though this is much more tame, hence why I elected to wear it. I mean...this is ok, it grew on me more in the drydown. If it was about half the price I might consider it?

0

7 years ago

WIDIAN V

Oh me....oh my, this fragrance is lovely. Incredibly warm, with a fruity, floral and even feminine aspect, with a light caramel/fudge accord in which the florals seem suspended. It's not a cloying, Mugleresque, big, heavy floral/gourmand Widian V is judged to perfection in a similar way to Widian II (I recall that's quite sweet?) This isn't the whole story though because it's dries down to a light musky accord and even a little woody and leathery on my skin (perhaps sandalwood?) with suggestions of that powdered apricot and vanilla sweetness but not dominated by them. I thought it was pretty impressed by it, lasted very well too.

0

7 years ago

Hermès Galop d'Hermes

I'm revisiting a ton of fragrances from the classic designer houses at the moment namely Hermes and Chanel to reassess things that I really should own by now. Gallop was one I came across that I never got to upon it's release but the bottle definitely intrigued me and I've only just realised that it's shape is supposed to be that of a stirrup. duh! haha Anyway, I'm someone who gives the accord of leather such a broad ranging spectrum I'm inclined to incorporate even the least leathery, 'leather' into it. However, I'm not sure Gallop can be included? but if it was... maybe it has a vague undercurrent of floral/leather? If I said Knize Ten that would be misleading but I'm burying my nose into it to get what the kind of leather could be? It's more that than anything but if you have to stretch that hard to find it, the accord is clearly not prominent enough. So the main body is the opening notes of what I was going to describe as a watery fig like note, but not fig and apparently what I'm smelling there is quince, so there you have it. There's a light whisp of rose and a hint of powdered florals. I wasn't hugely taken with it, but Gallop is fresh, clean and doesn't seem to resemble much I've been exposed to so it's worthy of another try I think.

0

7 years ago

Lush Himalaya

I'm sure I remember this one from back when my sister used to work for Lush? Anyway Himalaya has been released in the exclusive line once more and to me it's an absolute triumph. Himalaya smells like a Lush fragrance, heavy, Indy-like, challenging and super high impact in the opening. I'm not sure if the notes listed on Fragrantica quite reflect what's happening in this perfume but it's certainly a woody, sweet oriental with a hefty floral opening. That waxy floral is apparently Ylang....it's like no YY I've ever tried but I can go along with that because it's in the category of unusual/exotic/heady floral. Heavy woody notes are enmeshed with a sweet vanilla/tonka quality, drying down sweet but a little hippy like. It's not a soft vanilla or a creamy one, it's pretty dirty, I like it though, a bold fragrance full of interest.

0

7 years ago

Lush Lord of Goathorn

Lord of Goathorn

Now I'm not one who is apposed to a bit of wackiness in perfume, testing your olfactory limitations and what IS or ISN'T perfume but by the same rule I'm not on a quest to find the anti-perfume vibes and preach about their virtues, just to be contrarian for the sake of some hipster, cool brownie points. My tastes are very 'pretty' at the moment, Chanel Chic and light musky business so this was a bit of dig back into the indy dirt and I must say I don't get the vitriol? Now I did try the 'new' exclusive version, re-released and stocked at Lush's giant and beautiful new Liverpool store, so it could be different from the original. I was treated to a dark fragrance well and truly deserving of the name, earthy but not too soiled or dirty with sprigs of tarragon anise/metal and that deep licorice in the dry down, I think this fragrance is INSPIRED! I don't get any sourness or mildew? There's more than a hint of the salinated seaweed vibes going on, but they just add to the outdoor effect of this fragrance. It's a mystical outdoors though, perhaps a found footage, Blair witch forrest? Or I picture a Damp, foggy, evening in early winter, hoards of 'local folk' in white robes, burning torches led by a Baphomet figure. This is that fragrance. Now I didn't wear it properly before conducting this review and that's not the usual practice for me but I felt it needed a bit of a positive spin, because to my nose it's a really naturalistic, really decent and innovative scent. I loved it.

0

7 years ago

L.T. Piver Cedre

Sublime, soft, musky sandalwood that imparts a gentile spice found in epices and musc from this line. In fact this has the same degree of care, attention, and good breeding that those two have. Cedre was snapped up for a steal of a price along side them too and represents real value for money because the blends are great, comes highly recommended from me. I never really got pencil shaving from any cedar material but I can see how blended with sandalwood how that effect is achieved and I would describe this a 'balsa wood' soft, smooth and supple, but with a agitated surface of fine, splintery, rough hairs on the surface. The sweet spice chimes in throughout giving a discreet edge to what is primary a laid back woody musk. I love it, can't decide which is my favourite of the three I own??

0

7 years ago

Dior Sauvage Parfum

They've done it! Dior have done it. They've made a parfum version of the divisive Sauvage and it's going to split opinion in the way the original and EDP did...but perhaps for different reasons? For a start, what is this modern obsession with having different concentrations of popular fragrances? Well trading off of the name and well.... MONEY... but what other reason? I know what you'll say...look at Guerlain or the women's arena in general, they've been doing this for years and I get that. However there seems to be a modern 'arms race' by two giant French brands to mimic each others production and a meticulous and cynically planned agenda to suck money out of punters without a great deal of concern for making something of value. However a friend pointed out to me that he owned all the Parfum versions Dior have created in recent years, Eau Savage, Fahrenheit, Homme and now this Sauvage Parfum. When I thought about each one for a moment you realise that they do have merit. Eau Sauvage Parfum, best one in my opinion. Fahrenheit Parfum, a tough following act like 30 years after the orignal but is very enjoyable and was largely a success if not commercially but generally with enthusiasts and even gnarled, cynical, purists like me who adore the original thought the Parfum was decent. Then there's Dior Homme Parfum which comprised elements of DHI and the Original to create something (again IMHO) better than both of them! Which brings me to Dior Sauvage Parfum. This opens for me, much brighter and with more citrus zing and feels less scratchy than the original or EDP. It then drops a subtle sandalwood effect, being closer to the skin and more sensual not projecting an permeating, aroma chemical cloud the same way as the EDP and way less harsh than the EDT. Simply put, they've dialled down the Ambroxan. I hate to just mention that one AC because there's a misconception that Sauvage's crimes are purely down to ambroxan when it's a mix of tenacious, choking base chemistry. The parfumm is still very long lasting and even a day later I can smell it on my hand and it does indeed smell of Ambroxan but it's a nice non scrathy one, no where near as cloying or projecting as the other two. The key with Sauvage is don't overspray and you'll have an enjoyable experience. I never got the hate for it, it's got lovey fresh tops, a powdery, slightly harsh but masculine, modern and minimal base. So they've made another parfum that is excellent join the ranks of the others. Few caveats to that....This version is £40 more expensive for what some will perceive(and in reality IS) a lighter version of the original. Seriously Dior that's quite a price hike! Then I started to question my appraisal, sure they (Dior/Demachy) perhaps listened to feedback about the choking effect of the other two and decided to reign it in to bring in customers on the fence about Sauvage? However, in doing so have they removed it's USP? Of being the big dominant unashamed, unabashed, chemical brute? A beast mode, bro down, staple of the modern designers, with it's aggressive Abroxan calling card? I don't know??? Blander version is maybe a little harsh because like I said, this is the best version. I bought the EDP because it was less harsh than the EDT but now this one is here I kinda wish I'd waited but on the flip...I wouldn't pay the retail price...so yeah it's a conflicted positive review.

0

7 years ago

Dolce&Gabbana K by Dolce & Gabbana

K by Dolce & Gabbana

So I had a huge rant about this on Instagram today and a lot of my creative juices flowed into thinking of innovative ways to insult and besmirch D&G for making this perfume...so basically I haven’t got much left. Needless to say you’ll get an abridged version here. Campaign/concept/falcon stopper design ALL hideous and not D&G at all. Not that they’ve ever been the Kings (pun intended) of understatement (think By D&G Zebra & Leopard print) but this is just out of sorts & the wrong tone when you look at The One campaigns for example, adopting a more kitcsh/chintzy almost to the point of slapstick parody or Jeremy Scott type approach. It’s rubbish and the opening had me sighing....about what another boring genetic fragrance it is but despite this indistinct nature, and crowd pleasing, lack of ambition, I ended up liking it quite a lot. It’s not in your face, it’s not a chemical mess and feels subtle and reasonably well judged. It’s sort of a citrus opening with that gingery kick, and spice from the pimento and a clean, woody musk, and not the positive patchouli others are describing. Perhaps a sanitised and more well behaved, synthetic type patchouli, but wouldn’t have immediately called it that. I like it though and perhaps it’s a blessing that it’s so ill judged and hideous so it might just be in the bargain bucket before long, because if it was very, very cheap and I could immediately remove the crown cap and skim it in a lake or something then I might (in a moment of madness) just buy this?

0

7 years ago

Miguel Matos Sailor Stories

Sailor stories somehow managed to make a concept or genre that I can't abide into a really quite a pleasant thing, It doesn't make me as hard as a sailor's wang on shore leave, but I actually got some enjoyment from it. I'm not sure how Miguel has achieved that? Now I have made something reasonably similar to this called 'Seaside skanque' which was incredibly well received by others who tried it, even if I wasn't crazy about it myself. This clearly has more deftness of touch than mine and a natural feel of aquatic saltiness as you'd expect. The composition is eerily similar to mine too, Citrus top with white florals (I used jasmine-like Aroma chemicals, Hedione and neroli) he has used a jasmine like tone, which is creamy and lightens up the swashing, seashore accord of seaweed. Now he likely used seaweed absolute and mine was a combo of Ambergris tincture and traces of calone but I think the effect is kinda similar. Maybe there's calone in this too? or some other marine molecule? Basically it's creamy and warm with a salty kick, and the review below mentioning Antoine Lie is spot on that is the kind of vibe, perfectly encapsulated here. My least favourite from Miguel's four but I wouldn't wear it for taste reasons really but as a one off, I still like it. Sailor stories shows restraint and the ability to make something which is somewhat treading familiar territory and still narrowly avoids going horrible like a Secretions or a Sel Marin, Laboritivo Olfattino Salina.

0

7 years ago

Frederic Malle Promise

So the kindness of a Instagram acquaintance allowed me to try this fragrance as he very graciously sent me a bucket load of samples. The notes he described had me interested but the actual execution left me a bit cold. I don't hate Promise nor do I find it a wild or raw experience as some have decribed. The combination of jammy rose and apple, I thought would be magic but it turns out makes a strawberry/raspberry leaf smell to me. This on top of a dry, cade like, crude leather accord which for me has some depth, because sniffing for long enough you can pick out stuff you like, but the whole thing seems to be distinctly lacking character or likeability. It reminded me of the effect of La Yuqawam Tobacco blaze, like the unpleasantly dry and pale wrapper of a bad, or imitation Cuban cigar, coupled with an ashy, staleness, stagnant and lacking vigour. It's clearly better and more rounded than the rasasi fragrance and it does have the fruity element, against the woody dryness, which usually works. It's unique anyway. I'll pass on this. Oh at this point I'll just say that my partner...she went wild for this absolutely loved it, so what do I know huh?

0

7 years ago

Parfums Dusita Erawan

I try to block out all the noise I hear about certain fragrances and perfumers but it's hard to consume your favourite blogs and reviewers without Pissara coming up somewhere. I was curious about the Oud and Splendiris which were both good and very different but not until I dig into the proper florals she is famed for, do I get a true impression of what Dusita perfume is about. A friend very kindly sent me a comprehensive set of the samples I hadn't tried and this one was the first I sampled and I have to say it's pretty special. I get three main elements, but this is a fragrance that twists and shimmers with different looks, moist then dry, light then dark, fragrant then almost dulled down. This is my kind of experience...a trio of vibes, spring from this one. Orange blossom/neroli, going from herbal and bitter green edged neroli material, to perfumed, waxy, citrus orange and fleshy, orange blossom type of white florals. Then bam!!! where did all this dryness come from? It smells like summer as child, straw fields and the substance of hay absolute. I also get a milky tea, it's not hugely metallic or quintessential green or black tea, at least the way it's conventionally used in fresher fair. None of which is listed in the notes here!!! haha (Apart from the hay) Okay so... Lilly of the valley is likely giving all the white floral effect, there's gotta be some citrus even if it's not that pronounced? The hay is very strong and obvious in the heart. The clary sage/petrigrain and moss, account for the bitter herbal edge, and perhaps the tea effect too? Vanilla could be the milk in the tea and sweetness lend more sweetness with the hay? Very interesting stuff and superb quality and clarity of concept. As much of a contrarian as I like to think I am I have to admit that Pissara's sorcery is very really and I think it's working on me?

1

7 years ago

Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme or Encens

L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme or Encens

From Monday's Scent of the day which was something I initial liked but has fallen out of favour to something which perhaps has done the complete reverse of that, in Issey Miyake's L'eau d'Issey pour homme Or Encens. This is a cracking little perfume which I wasn't sure about at first due to the connotations with that Bleu Issey one, which I initially hated then years later when I saw it was no longer on shelves, panic bought thinking it was something I might be into now...it wasn't... but I have to say I didn't hate it as much. This has much more of the authentic incense about it than Bleu but it's still a bit of a throwaway designer fragrance by the same token. There's a leathery, incense accord which is not without roughness, but generally smoothed out by a sweet but not overpowering rose and creamy woods of synthy santal, but never milky and with some rough n tumble texture. It's like someone re-imagined Kilian's Incense Oud for the designer market or took the oomph out of Dsquared2's Potion Royal Black...but also, it's like neither of those. I think Raynaud's efforts for Miyake of late are both really worthwhile perfumes and inject a much needed classy edge into what is quite frankly a tired line. The nuit ones aren't too bad but some of the recent sideways-flashing, flankers have been appalling to my nose, all the chemical nastiness and none of the appealing melon, yuzu or kiwi aspects that kept L'eau even slightly wearable.

0

7 years ago

Chris Rusak Timbre

So Chris Rusak's Timbre (a fragrance I mistakenly keep referring to as 'Timber' to the man himself and he was likely too sweet to correct me) is a strange fragrance of two halves. The first, the opening and main body of the fragrance which is a stunningly well rendered and natural smelling woody scent that propelled me back to childhood, climbing tree's and very specifically getting incredibly viscous sap on my hands. This is a lightly smokey, pine, cade, vetiver tinged incense with the impression of silver birch in my head. It truly is a feat to cram that much vivid woodiness into a fragrance and for that he must be applauded. This is where my amateur perfumery experience (or lack of?) can come back to bite as I'm constantly thinking about and trying to deconstruct a composition, especially from Indy perfumers. A little bot of knowledge being a dangerous thing because this is when we enter into the second phase of the fragrance which for me smelled a great deal more synthetic. I rattled off a list of aroma chemicals and natural isolates I use in 'woody/amber' bases to Chris and only one of the materials he said was in Timbre (Cedramber) but only in a trace amount and as a supporting role to the cedar in the base. Now I think I perhaps neglected to mention that I also use cedar (Virginian and Atlas) in pretty much everything too and perhaps Timbre is teaching me a valuable lesson about just how tenacious natural cedar is, in the base, remaining as they do with all the tenacity of Timbersilk, ISO E SUPER, or ambroxan. I also got a blackcurrant nuanced, peppery, licorice, wood smell that I often get from synthetic oud (especially the Firmanich one) and often when paired with pink pepper, but Chris uses real oud in here and I have smelled this in real oud materials too so for those who say that synth ouds don't really smell like real oud...they do....(a bit) I get the oud purists point but they sort of do in some senses. The base is a smokey, rough brown paper of a thing, with elements of vetiver, resinous warmth but more seems more sterile to me, than the lucid opening. For all this waffling, and struggling with a rubix cube, navel gazing nonsense this is a superb woody fragrance and one that I would implore anybody who loves that sort of thing to check out. It promotes images of fresh air, great big skies, mountains, huge sequoia tree's and all that good stuff. I liked it a lot.

0

7 years ago

Rasasi La Yuqawam Ambergris Showers

La Yuqawam Ambergris Showers

Well I thought I'd reviewed this one when it came out as a keen (or foolish?) blind buy netted me this catch. My opinion has changed somewhat, I still like this perfume but not as much as I did when it first landed on my doorstep and for much the same reasons as tobacco blaze, although that was immediately apparent. This is a kind of citrus opening, but it's not especially bright, just sort of weird, sharp, bitterness from grapefruit. The synthetic (and I do mean unnatural) smell of this perfume kinda alludes to the ethereal, fixative nature of ambergris but it doesn't smell anything like any ambergris I've ever come across. The main body is a ultra dry leather accord which is heavy on the mate, I can also see some of the greenness, the dry, papery smell of violet leaf and perhaps even the clary sage listed here? Ambergris showers does smell modern and masculine and Immediately quite a lot like Irish leather from Memo but maybe a touch smokier and more arid? It also reminds me of Molton Brown's Russian leather but without the smoothness and 'real' leather aspect. Instead this has a less vibrant and sweet leather accord which is stale and ashy, a bit like tobacco blaze but decidedly easier to tolerate. I kinda bought this to complete the set really, not always the greatest motivation and with a view to scaling down my collection, this might be getting cut? Wearing it today is enjoyable but at a crucial time in evaluating what I really need in my collection, I don't think any La Yuqawam's are going to make the grade.

0

7 years ago