Wow! So this was an exclusive at Harrods yet it’s taken two years to get a wider release? My opinion is that it was worth the wait. Seriously this is awesome stuff! Smells very classic and very masculine but you are paying a premium for it. I’d feared, with a name like Sandalo that it would be a very slight, sandalwood but it’s more of a classic, I detect oak moss and patchouli, and a dirty lavender with a kind of eathiness reminding me of Tom Ford for men maybe or RL Safari, VC&A Tsar or classic eighties fragrances with sandalwood. It’s an aromatic Fougere type scent, citrus top notes, herbal and woody, the soft, clean woods left at the end are like a oud and sandalwood combo. I think it’s fantastic and another classic masculine idea in the same way Quercia from this line was too. I hope it’s not wildly expensive because I want it.
I’ve been desperately trying to figure out what this reminded me of and it’s Mandate, albeit this is smoother, stronger and all around more appealing version than the current one. I love Sandalo. It’s masculine, complex and I think I stated in my last review that my favourite was Quercia which is still great but it’s been overtaken by this.
Now I make no secret of the fact I love Andrier’s work but this whole Homme line has been a really slow burner for me. The original left me a bit cold, sure it was good but didn’t feel it making a lasting impression, the intense version was nice too but still didn’t captivate me. The one that did it for me was Femme, delicate and lovely but in keeping with the whole theme of this line, and even though I liked L’eau...I think I like it more because I just get them all now! Not that there was much to get, soft milky iris and warm woods and amber. L’eau is a touch fresher though, and does have white florals in here but again handled expertly by the perfumer. This is another one that will gradually give up its powdery secrets over time and no doubt charm me even more. I really liked it.
A pretty standard opening for an oud/rose fragrance but boy is it luminous and upbeat eventually settling to something of a clean, bright musk and sweet roses. One of the major notes in this composition is geranium, powdery and floral but with green fresh, airy aldehydes. Fascinating progression and an absolutely winning formula from something I thought might’ve been a stuffy and not particularly inspiring oud. I actually love this fragrance it was a decent blind buy.
This was a blind buy and a 'like' that I suspect may turn into a 'love'. However, it's not all fun and games, this fragrance is a challenge and has that kinda stale smoke smell you get with something like Rasasi Tobacco blaze (not near as bad) It's a very very dry woody smell. The opening does have some spicy notes and hint of cinnamon but that is soon overwhelmed by the main accord or dirty woods. This gets warmer and softer and more appealing throughout. This is undoubtedly an oud fragrance, it's pretty glaring and soft but no slouch on projection or longevity sitting low but humming away. I was slightly thrown out of the 'Niche' vibe after opening the 'fancy' looking but ultimately cheap and tacky box when confronted with a bottle that when I removed the top half of it broke off and remained in situ. Ruining the 'Niche' illusion for me. Thankfully the fragrance itself stacked up and I'm not so bothered about such things. I can't wait to wear it properly as it keep me sniffing. Oh also I have really wanted to find an alternative to the discontinued Rive Gauche intense and for long periods I was wondering why this was even compared, but sure enough this does resemble it in the drydown somehow, but this is still a dirtier, stranger cousin. I liked it.
I'm only just coming to write my review as I've had this on my list for sometime without doing anything about it, saw it cheap and just had to buy it. Well, it's just as I remember, an excellent kind of freshie that evokes aquatic vibes but with a super simple composition which opens sharp, kinda bitter grapefruit, pink pepper and I could swear a kinda cumin/caraway sort of thing which is a direct nod to the original on a cedar base. Oh yeah I get a touch of ginger in L'eau too, although it might just be the extra sharpness of the citrus & pink pepper giving that effect. It's classic and does resemble Dior Homme Cologne to some extent but with loads of the original Declaration as well making it a unique prospect. I was a little disappointed with performance, considering I sprayed it in store when it was released a few years back and thought the longevity was superb for this kind of fragrance. Anyway I'm glad to have it in my collection for another option on hotter days. Oh and Cartier have some classy looking bottles, this is no exception. Update: After owning this one for a while now, I'm gonna say that my initial regard for it was scuppered after I purchased it thinking....this isn't quite how I recall it being. However, wearing it more it's brought to light the spicier facets and even the light, curry leaf, cumin notes of the original, politely and distantly being nodded at and evoked by what is a brilliant, throwaway version of the original Declaration. This having more brightness and gingery pep to it. I love it again.
I remember this fragrance being released, but I always like the smell of Jungle Homme but felt it was a bit lightweight. I don't know if it's nostalgia but when I smell it now I get the subtle nuance, Oliver Cresp is wanting to convey. Relaxed, lime opening which is gently spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom, melting into a soft sandalwood musk. It smells exotic and is quietly projecting and lasting well too. Truly stunning. Kinda reminds me of lots of things but is unique at the same time. Maybe Gucci Envy a fragrance from a similar time period, maybe a touch of Lalique Homme and Equis? Something about this is just so 90's. I effectively blind bought as I genuinely couldn't remember what Jungle Homme smelled like and I'm over the moon with it. I really like Kenzo as a brand, even the clothes are cool (despite the hefty pricetag) and the playful and let's face it slightly ridiculous design of the flacon needs a place in my wardrobe. I haven't had a Kenzo fragrance since Homme and that was going way back.
This fragrance is absolute filth! In a really good way though. The opening is chaotic, headbangingly strong and conflicted, floral, animalic, musky, a bit metallic, sickly sweet with heavy spicing. When it’s settles it’s a brutal musk, surrounded by indistinct florals and a fruity note, tinged with bubblegum. As it dries down though it becomes really interesting and a cuddly warm, spiced amber scent develops, deeply, deeply resinous. To be honest I was really in two minds about that opening but when settled, even though it still smells of musky and sweet even skanky notes I love it. The complexity is something to behold, becoming exceptionally woody, balmy even a touch smokey. This is not a typical powerhouse in the way the other one man shows are, this has eastern almost oud like vibes about it. The projection in the first 20 mins of applying is nothing short of nuclear, but does die down respectably, performance is good and im a big fan of how ridiculous this is already. Blind bought it as well so it’s extra impressive, a stonking good romp of a fragrance, probably not for everyone though.
A soft, woody fragrance in terms of impact it's not much to write home about from a brand I'd not come across. Having said this, you just don't smell many (newish) fragrances like this, it's classy and understated. The opening is watery and fig like with a very subtle anise like to my nose, developing into a kind of buttery floral but with something inherently woody and masculine about it. The drydown and wearing of this was slightly inconclusive because it was a hot day and even the best fragrance wouldn't of lasted on me but the card I additionally sprayed it on, still has a soft and rounded vanilla/heliotrope/violet smell about it. The main thing that makes me like this is the price. The price is really reasonable and if I see it (I won't go out of my way) I might add uomo to the collection for a bit of obscure (in a brand sense, not smell wise) fun.
As this stuff wore on, I really started to warm to it. Vince Camuto is not a brand I'm familiar with and having tried a few of the mens line I'd say they don't have anything particularly original or standout. I liked the warm, slightly powdered, musky, woods in the base underneath a happy, light hearted citrus and mandarin orange note. Clean and warm creating a lovely soft skin scent but it is just that a not very good performer. I liked the drydown the best though and if I saw this cheap I might buy as an inoffensive clean and functional scent.
For me this is Amouage in a return to form, not that there was much of a slump to be fair because I liked Braken, Beach hut was hugely interesting, I think it's just Sunshine and that purple one that was a rare miss step in my opinion. The name of this is a little weird and I can only deduce it would have negative connotations when applied to perfume. Why would you want to be an Imitation? There's probably deeper meaning and a positive spin to be found in the marketing bumf...I've no doubt. Also I respect the reviews of Nick Zee but I don't agree with him on this one. I can say categorically that Imitation doesn't even smell remotely similar to Dior Homme parfum. Okay so the opening is very floral and fresh but clearly has masses of depth and an obvious orris root base right out of the gate. This milky, creamy, leathery powdered nature defies the adjectives I just used to describe it because I might say that about a designer fragrance with an orris/iris base but this is clearly a higher calibre and that's evident straight away. I love how soft and floral this scent is with violet and just the suggestion of roses. It has a classy base and I'm no doubt there's some myrrh in here to keep in with the Amouage, incense aesthetic. The point is, individual notes are blurred by a wonderful chypre type concept and masterful perfumery. I really didn't get patchouli from it but I have only sampled once and sprayed on a card which I kept for a week or so and it still smells fantastic if very faded now. This might be an Amouage I just can't be without, I thought the smell was majestic, and for the man who has no regard for M/F fragrance paradigms. The performance is good and perfectly acceptable at a high price (not sure what the price is but I'm sure it's not cheap!) I love it.
Exquisite! That one word could easily be the sum total of my review, but it wouldn’t be like me not to waffle on. The Santal royal in this collection has a very prominent, sharp and skanky, resinous oud note which is completely in contrast with this stuff, a pure tonepoem of luxury and perfumery excelllence. This is a purely indulgent smell with no one one note dominant, but a smoother resin, saffron and leathery oud smell of giant proportions but delicate and modest execution. I was told by the SA that sprayed me(with perfume;) at the Guerlain counter that it was made with access to ingredients other houses don’t (which I’m inclined to believe as it’s guerlain) and also he was big on the fact that I could keep it for years and years and it won’t spoil (again which is my experience of most perfumes ...kept correctly of course) Oh and also he was encouraging me to layer other scents on top of this, which I don’t do but I see how this emorphous, classy bed of woods and resin would enhance even the worst fragrance you sprayed on it. I love it. I think it’s incredible and an oud to get excited about, it’s not groundbreaking and I’ve smelled similar before but I think it’s a perfect storm this one, a perfect oud for ANYONE to wear and enjoy. It’s soft and retreats to a skin scent after hours of solid projection but then easy lasts 10+ hours and probably weeks on clothes. I want this.
It’s not often these days I’m conpletely bowled over by a fragrance, especially one I definitely should’ve already tried. However, Camille Intrapide is utter magic from start to finish. It has a similar subtlety to something like Santal Carmine from this house, soft buttery, with classic perfume touches that elevate it to something beyond the average. Citrus opening then turning to a delicate floral smell, with a iris/orris smoothness. This is where the drydown becomes one of the nicest, softest, most realistic and well realised leather notes I’ve had the pleasure of sampling. It reminded me of cuir sacre from Ann Gerard but much more unisex and generally more appealing, certainly lasting longer too. I’m surprised not to see sandalwood listed in the notes, not that it’s prominent but it has a creamy woods to it. The leather smell is so good, I sprayed a card as well as myself and I can still smell the gorgeous, soft, buttery leather on there....this fragrance is quite something I definitely want a bottle for sure.
Nothing from this line has blown me away, but again it’s a nicely constructed fragrance of real quality and substance but no wow factor at all. Rêve de cashmere starts out in a very minimalist way, the opening notes, milky, creamy and washed out with vanilla. However the accord starts to build and you get the warm cahmerean the vanilla and sandalwood creeping up on you in a slight but in the end very good performing fragrance. The over all feel is one of a delicate leather with some resinous, balmy qualities too. Very nice indeed but lacking that one note, or little spark and pop of spice or something unexpected to bring it all together and inject some life into the perfume. Otherwise solid and some of my favourites from the line.
I get the comparisons to TF FF I really do but this stuff is a much more straight forward gourmand fragrance, lacking the edge or interest that the Tom Ford had for me. Don’t get me wrong this is a sensual vanilla/tonka with lashings of almond milk in a sweet, luxurious mixture. It’s of great quality and lasts well, but not a fragrance of interest for me personally.
Tried this today after being accosted by a sales assistant who picked the wrong guy to talk fragrances with! I tested her kung fu and it was pretty poor, she was very nice though and didn't pretend to be knowledgeable after she realised she was dealing with a fragrant OG!!! ;) I found it slightly underwhelming in truth. I'm a big fan of this brand for some reason I say that because not one fragrance wows me but there's some good solid stuff in there. Burlington Arcade was the highlight of recent releases from this house, Mint & tonic does open with a refreshing lime citrus, settling to a cleaner, aquatic type fragrance with a sharp hint of ginger. I was expecting something of the G&T or mojito from the name but instead a modern, clean affair which only has a hint of mint and no juniper which the tonic suggests. It's a clean, cool citrus musk of good quality, with some vetiver and cedar in the base but that's about it! Performance was average to poor on me.
A very interesting twist here. This is a fragrance for those who love a dense leathery, herbal but stinging opening, with an absolutely well realised tobacco note up front. I genuinely think that tea is a big player in this fragrance as it simultaneously reminded me of three different L'artisan perfumer fragrances namely... tea for two, Dzing! and dhronkha (probably not spelled right but you know the one I mean) Maybe the fresh, green tobacco leaf and tea share common traits which I suppose they kinda do. It's got that dry vetiver note but also a bit synthetic and something Bertrand Dauchafour would definitely have come up with. The clary sage and moss give it that effect too I suppose and the top notes are peculiarly original. I liked it but Tobacco reserve is not going to be for everyone, I like that it's not an easy going or creamy, gourmand tobacco. Instead this has roots in the masculine original formula. Worth a sniff for real.
Being the snob I am and unfortunately can’t help being, coupled with the fact I loathed the messy original Wanted, yesterday when a sales assistant said we’ve got a new Wanted from Azzaro, I feel I might’ve rolled my eyes a little bit. However, upon trying it I said ‘well it’s better than the original.’ That was just the opening a sharp orange note, spiced warm bubblegum and tobacco actually sounds a bit hellish but in practice was pretty cohesive and well executed for a throwaway flanker if ever I saw one. This fragrance has about as much subtle nuance as a sledgehammer entirely comprised of bottles of Joop, but still having worn a sample now I can’t hate it. It doesn’t even go quite full oriental and still managed to maintain some of that generic accord you get nowadays in order to keep the punters spending, but hey Wanted by night is passable. In fact I quite liked it...but don’t tell anyone.
Quite simply...fantastic! I had hugely high, even unrealistic expectations about this one to the point I was preparing to be disappointed and it’s not! Purple Oud is a really impactful scent with a bold, provocative and highly original opening. Purple Oud is a Purple as Prince! It’s fruity, but not sweet and definitely not playing around, it means some serious business and although completely changes when settled, some scents you can feel the basenotes lurking from the very first slightest, waft, like gazing at a distant storm you know a short time from now will be right upon you. I’d say it’s berry like, blackcurrant and hints of dark licorice melt away into a leathery, woody, Oud smell, which is rubbery and with hints of skankiness and minimal touches of smoke. The very deep drydown after about 6 hours is a very low lying, clean woody smell. It’s intoxicating, interesting, even a little strange and challenging at times but Demachy has created something I think deserves a great amount of merit.
Crude and a little clunky but not without merit and in fairness this combination of notes has not been overly done. The opening is a very unusual, synthetic fruity, sweet candies vibe but with a herbal, slightly cerebral lavender. The drydown to me is a transformation into more of a woody, powdered smell without knowing the notes I said, sandalwood, ginger, iris and an unmistakable note of violet. Well I was pretty spot on, I also get a kind of crayon and pencil shavings base which could even be described as a touch leathery or some Tonka or something? Sounds confused and like the sort of stuff I’d usually critique hard, but hey I’m going easy on this because it was pleasantly surprising. The opening was pretty unique smelling but I’m not sure whether I could say I enjoyed it or not? It was a bit loud and slightly tacky. The settled scent actually showed me a little nuance and revealed other notes, it’s okay but I probably wouldn’t wear it again.
I love Detaille as a brand, they are such classy little Eau de cologne type scents that I challenge anyone to be offended by. Instead you’ll be won over by Their quaint charm and masterfully French compositions. Yachting is no different giving essentially what is quite a dry and earthy backbone of vetiver and something resembling black tea to me, with clean and aromatic cardamom and geranium. It’s reminds me of a couple of L’artisan perfumer scents maybe numero 10, dZing! and tea for two? Maybe? Don’t quote me on that! Something I really liked was that Detaille fragrances were available for sale in the lobby of a hotel I last stayed in, in Paris...I’ve never seen that before. This one isn’t my favourite but it’s decent.
I probably wrote a review of this years back and never posted it because the sample I dug out is really old. I can’t believe I didn’t comment on the misty, suede opening slightly gourmand with Tonka, settling to immortelle, tinged with mint. The tobacco base is then evident in a mellow skin scent, this stuff has an uneasy (or unspeakeasy?) charm. Usually, I’d find the immortelle a bit too much but with the surrounding notes it’s bearable and quite weak in terms of longevity and projection so I can appreciate the artistry without having to become sick and tired of it several hours later. Many Frapin fragrances have a boozy touch to them, this doesn’t but somehow that boozy quality is implied by th name and perhaps the tobacco? I liked it upon trying it again, as it can't of made too much of an impression on me in 2013, it’s great to dig through and revisit old samples.
Pretty, bloody stunning if you ask me. Rosa absolute is a bright, upbeat rosy fragrance which although not highly original does have very good quality and an intoxicating smell. It reminds me of loads of rose scents with lighter, musky chypre type bases but what was most striking was the similarity to the liquides imaginaires line and their boozy take on this genre. This is a rosé champagne of a rose scent, with all the sharp characteristics, bubbles and all, but as it settles you get a lovely powder as the rose stops projecting so much and becomes a potent skin scent. I love it and it’s not a question of bravery because I’d wear this no problem, I’m just not sure it’s all that suitable for a man. Something about it says feminine to me.
I was a big fan of the shower gel, very invigorating but this one didn’t get a edt for ages. The opening is sharp, citrus ginger and spices, the pepper is evident but for a fragrance with pepper in the name some might consider it a bit tame and not as peppery as something like Marc Jacobs Bang! This wouldn’t be a valid criticism however because this has a much more fleshed out base of mellow, woods and earthiness, I love this fragrance it’s great.
I went through a few different sets of feelings about this but I’m going to start with the positive, I really like the flacon. Love the original Hugo bottle at the best of times with all its nintiesness and army issue, military flask appearance but this one has a rough, graphite texture and bluey silver colouring which both looks and feels great. The fragrance itself was something I was half expecting to be good due to the last flanker Ice which was actually pretty decent. Sadly the opening waft even before settling or putting my wrist to my nose was a disappointing, dull, generic, aquatic affair in no way spellbinding or new. There’s touches of the green, masculinity in there from the original but generally another Azzaro Chrome/ferragamoaqva/versacepourhomme...etc etc... sort of thing. However, when settled does change for that middle section with the tea coming through and an almost mint like coolness. Unfortunately the drydown then reverts to a monotonous scent we’ve all smelled before, but this does briefly glimpse something more interesting. I don’t know if it’s my nose, giving urban journey more credit than it deserves, but I really can’t hate on it.
