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Marlborough Cologne

Geo. F. Trumper

houdini

hmmmm... Odd notes here? I'd say this is a fresh, citrus, cologne type scent that morphs lower down into lavender and base leather hum. The citrus opening is misty, and coupled well with a powdery texture which could be the geranium but Marborough Cologne doesn't scream geranium in the way the notes here might suggest it should. I'm in awe of it though for some reason? It's just a soft and likeable version of your standard men's stuff from the 1960's to 90's (although this is from 1877!!!) I can't believe I've never tried it until now it's super. Actually that might be going a bit far but if I can get it really cheap, I'd consider it a bargain.

7 years ago

I remember this fragrance wafting around in the 90's and I'm pretty sure my mum and/or sisters owned a bottle at some point...but that really is only the top notes, the intimate drydown is less familiar but an absolute revelation to me. I'd neglected being interested in it myself but I've no idea why because Dune is FANTASTIC!!! This is much more the Frank Herbert Sci-fi novel inspired, towering sand dunes I'd often wondered why the men's version wasn't! The base of this is exquisite. Powerful but illusory and constantly shifting. The opening is almost like a more gourmand, less fresh and watery and more gourmand fig (like a fig biscuit) than the men's version. Flowing into a mature, floral smell of unsweetened, wild flowers, and even a slightly pissy, woods and aldehydes feel...but in a really good way! All this time though there's a really classy creamy woods backing the whole thing, like a blend of ho wood, rosewood, sandalwood and palo santo (minus the wierd rubber and mint) all conspiring to make the most lusciously opulent drydown but maintain the arid imagery. It's feminine for sure and has this sexy edge of straight out the bath, silk robes about it, mature but not old or stuffy. At this juncture I should perhaps point out that my mini is an early nineties example and I'm not sure what sort of reformulations it has endured since but I'm completely smitten. It's a little challenging in the mid section but hugely interesting to revisit and totally wearable for this nostalgic, 90's gentleman.

7 years ago

I've not tried the new reformulated Jules (why is it so expensive?) and my memories of the original have faded into obscurity so I got my hands on early 90's mini's of both the aftershave and EDT and I have to say they are SUPERB! I have a real penchant for this era, men's stuff and Jules is treating me to everything I love. Addictive, soapy, green leather and perfectly balanced aromats, a suggestion of powdery carnation, moss and twangy musk opening. These are all things you find elsewhere but with Dior there's a certain shine and sparkle to it. The drydown is smooth, clean and powerful, it's a delight and has it's own feel, separated from the Kouros's, Quorum's, Aramis's and Bijan's of the world by a not trying too hard to be too butch. I LOVE IT! Shame the vintage bottles are so pricey but this might have to be added to the list of wants. Lasts, forever and projects very well indeed without being intrusive.

7 years ago

What a treat! This fragrance is absolute magic. The opening is pure, fresh ginger, rough but juicy and coupled with citrus sweetness. Retreating to a smooth spicy bed of cardamom very quickly. The woods aren't particularly oud-like, more of low lying cedar to me. Cardamom looms large and it's something I like to use in my blends, but to get it to sit as comfortably as it does in this fragrance is no mean feat let me tell you. The 'vert' part does make you think it would be more green (I mean the caradmom is green) but that is somehow evoked in the bergamot and overall freshness, so even the name works well. I love it . It's discrete but somehow exudes quality and like it's been carefully considered. So the obvious gripes from folk with this are: 'where's the oud?' The character of this scent being so good could be attributed to that, But if you're after a big, blatant oud then this ain't it. It's like £300 or something? Well like I've said, FdB were not a brand that were made for me and I actually really have a problem with the whole 'Luxury' focus. However, if the perfumes were bad, I'd love nothing more than to slate them (I'm petty like that) for some emperor's new clothes shit...but they are sublime across the board and this is no different. Oh...saying something on the 'oud' element The fragrances from this brand (maybe with the exception of Santal Complet?) which don't have 'Oud' in the title are pretty nice but not at the level of the oud ones, regardless of whether they overtly smell of oud or not. My conclusion the oud must play a factor in the overall 'aura' of the scent, otherwise what would be the point?

7 years ago

What you expect from AdP is outstanding citrus opening and Sakura has that, with a watery, juicy, nearly green effect (I often associate with fig) but it's heavily perfumed with a dominant cherry blossom right from the get go, I actually didn't realise just how much so on first spritz, but then this is laden with fresh cherry blossom. Very nice just a bit femme and a little too 'norm' and reminscent of air fresheners for me. This speaks more to the skill and quality of air freshner formulation that it does about this being a poor fragrance because it isn't. There's Nothing wrong with a functional fragrance and the floral musk and jasmine sambac (which isn't particularly prominent) just add to what is a very pleasant and good quality, light, summer floral. I'm wearing it at the height of Autumn and it's bringing a little sunshine to an otherwise miserable day.

7 years ago

Finally...I hate being so broadly negative about a great brand which has captured the imagination of perfumistas and a perfumer that respect hugely for his commitment to quality and respect for materials. All incredibly admirable, so it's nice when I actually think the end product is excellently crafted and wearable perfume. I think I'm in a stage of liking soft 'pretty' things at present and Plumeria de Orris is the closest thing to pretty on the AlD agenda for this collection. I'm also a little ashamed that none of the heavier oud or leather fragrances were doing anything for me, because I seriously like that stuff, normally. I actually thought that premiering Orris as a material was a little 'French' or whatever for AlD and Adam but this is a delight! The opening has that exotic, fruity floral but it's tamed by a mildly vegetal odour for a brief time a Really powdery drydown giving a buttery, sweet leather facet of Orris root. It is floral throughout but doesn't have as characteristic frangipani as some of the Bortnikoff's for example, although I totally get how that material is in here. The clever part is that it's clearly driven by the same animal core that all of these have but it's not too apparent until it's well and truly dired down, like past 10-12 hours. This speaks to a deft touch by adam in using Castor and/or civet replacer in this because it does exactly what it should, mild background duties and twined with the orris and florals, gives a perfectly light but still animalic muskiness. I thought it was excellent.

7 years ago

Anyone who rode in a taxi pre mid 2000's could tell you that the drivers used to openly smoke cigarettes with you in the vehicle (SHOCKING NOW I KNOW!!!) I even shared a spliff with some of them sometimes. Anywho...reminiscing about those ashtrays on wheels, the ford Orion Ghia, furry dice and beaded seat covers, basically imagine the stale, musty odour in that vehicle, cigarettes and a million punters bums in various drunken states....well that is what War & Peace smells like. (I think Siberian Summer gave me that vibe too) Thank god for smoking bans, general standards and UBER because taxi's used to be fucking awful and if I hadn't of been a smoker myself at the time I likely would've been more bothered by them. This is an olfactively interesting endevour, the materials are clearly of great quality and contain interesting facets but overall, the perfume is a disappointment and I can't view it any other way. As thick, and long lived as the tome itself, War and Peace is an epic oud fragrance with a character like no other, but not really in a positive sense.Smells musty and old, not even barnyard or fecal just a bit stale. It's deeply faceted though and you can wallow in it's dark, dingy corridors finding odorous nuggets of interest if you're so inclined. W&P is very much of olfactory/historical interest, but has no place in my wardrobe. I don't really get much of the rose, it's muted and kinda dead, geraniol heavy rose (which I usually love) but perhaps in this instance a bit of jammy, sweetness would've been a welcome lift for what is a very dark, dusty affair. Atomically strong and long lasting but doesn't develop very much on me, although I'm somewhat charmed by it from a morbid fascination sense. Now... I only have a small quantity, purchasing the sample set and thankfully not blind buying Antiquity which I was considering doing. So I don't have a vast amount of wearing under my belt and perhaps this fragrance is one that needs to be worn several times to truly understand and if you want to dismiss my 'review' as a naive account from an unexperienced nose then that's cool, and I concede that you could indeed be right?

7 years ago

I perhaps hoped that this would take some of the floral approach found in Bortnikoff/Russian Adam's Amber Cologne...but no. Siberian Summer opens with a strangely fruity effect and brighter tones for sure giving a summery sense, but don't be fooled because soon enough you'll be hit pretty hard with the major themes. It's as if someone came along and poured, sharpness on to this fruity parade, almost that effect of balsamic vinegar on strawberries, it kinda works. I actually find the musk that develops slightly overbearing and pissy with the camphor and forest like accord at first, but does become more bearable and even somewhat likable. Then reverts back to being musty, with a metallic twang, I just can't stomach wearing it. Now I believe there's no deer musk in this and not to get too preachy because I can't talk (I've bought civet and such in the past) but I'm glad Adam is willing to explore other methods of producing animalic base effects, and to be fair the ones he's used it in this collection have been really well judged. Sometimes I will try a perfume that so obviously has a ton of civet replacer, not delicately woven into the tapestry of the scent but plonked in there, sinking right to the bottom and relentlessly bubbling away. Siberian summer is measured but is probably my least favourite. I honestly don't understand wanting to smell this way? It's a pass from me.

7 years ago

Without doubt this is a deep fragrance, but for all the aged materials and care and attention put into them, is the final result really all that great? I don't think so. Let me preface that comment by saying I was hugely anticipating this release, but maybe that expectation was unrealistic? I don't dislike the fragrance, the opening of Antiquity with those peachy aldehydes and a honied leather accord are really interesting and truly like nothing I've ever smelled before. In fact honey looms large and it smells that way for a good hour or two. There's no sparkle though, no energy in the blend, it feels flat and stale to me, not the arresting vintage perfume experience that was promised. The oud is prominent but actually very mild in terms of impact, and more woody than animal or resinous, perhaps the effects of being aged since the 70's? Don't get it twisted Antiquity is strong and lasts for days on skin. I don't get the carnation unfortunately, I was interested to see how that played a part. Now potentially, I don't know what I'm talking about and it's purely down to my tastes not being up to much & the fanfare and adoration of Areej le Dore will continue regardless, you're free to make up your own mind on that. Believe it or not, of the four this was my second favourite so it feels harsh to bash it, I don't want to do that either but I feel obliged to comment with my true feelings. I feel the care put into distilling and sourcing these materials is not necessarily being matched by the final product. I've tried several of the previous collections and they run the gamut from sublime to 'I don't get that AT ALL?' the main reason I don't get it is that 'quality' obsessed enthusiasts are willing to smell really quite muddled and funky for a piece of the exclusive luxury action.

7 years ago

I have an older mini of this (sort of?) which is apparently from the 60's but I'm not entirely sure? It's called Eau de Monseiur Balmain and it's absolutely stunning. The opening is a powdery lemon which could be considered confectionery like, sweet, perhaps a little sherbet lemon fizz and mine is undoubtedly old but the citruses are holding up fantastically well. There's green aspects of citrus, petitgrain and a warm underbelly, which still manages to be fresh and crucially not fougere, infact it's more EDC or Chypre territory. Then some of the most authentic oakmoss in the drydown, I mean an oakmoss lovers dream. Clearly this is a later release but the origins of this fragrance are in something truly lovely.

7 years ago

I remember trying the parfum years ago from a Chanel collector friend, but I don't recall ever having sprayed this EDT. It's fantastic though. Despite the peachy aldehyde, honied, musk fuzz this fragrance is inherently wearable for a man, well this man anyway, perhaps moreso than the parfum? (memory is vague) Base is clean but deep, meaningful, real, chic all that good Polge stuff. UPDATE: I bought it. Coco EDT is amazing. This is not a pretty perfume in the sense that it so easily could/should be. It’s quintessentially Chanel, and certainly feminine, but on me it gives so much from fruity apricot juice, to edible vanilla/tonka and powder, suede leather.

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7 years ago

Valentino Uomo Born in Roma

Valentino

houdini

Oh dear Valentino. Uomo and flankers were pretty good. This is not. It’s not terrible, just makes you breathe a humongous sigh of disappointment especially if you’re jaded with a fragrance industry and perfumers who seem to list different and vibrant note combinations, but curiously seem to mix them all together and they come out the same. This has a flavour, not even if now, but a few years ago. Not a fan.

7 years ago

Please, please, please be good. I love Comme des Garcons even at their low points they are innovative and seemingly creating stuff that has been beamed back in time from some dystopian future. A dark echo. A warning that people (or symbiotic cyborgs organisms?) are going to smell like plastic and wet cement.I can't wait frankly! Yeah I love CdG but the last couple have left me cold, Blackpepper and Concrete...I really hope Copper is something I'm compelled to acquire.

This is CdG well and truly back on track for me, Just with this line (in the pebble bottles) you understand. It wasn't that Concrete and Blackpepper weren't alright but they were just that...alright and didn't encapsulate the avant garde, futurism and funky, artistic nature of the brand and certainly other releases. This epitomises Comme des Garcons for me. Copper doesn't have the incense themes but the sharpness and smoky bite is still coming from resins but the transparent, green and metallic, galbanum, slashing through the composition, injecting that edginess. it has a combo of my favourite top notes in cassis, pink pepper and ginger which are prominent and all in all give the main focus and a vibrant, energy to this perfume. The drydown is actually intense, brooding, resinous and with a heavy twang of myrrh which has an inimitable quality to it. Outstanding! Completely and utterly, outstanding. I don't even love it, I'm just glad that it exists and that comme des garcons are still shaking the tree of perceptions.

7 years ago

Dunno why I haven't posted my review of this yet? I could've sworn I saw bile spitting diatribe of a review from a certain active forum member on this the otherday, doesn't appear to be here anymore? Oh well. I was going to say that his repeated remarks about this being '...nothing like Fahrenheit and anyone who says it is has a crap nose or is deliberately misleading you!' (I'm paraphrasing but that was the general gist.) Well, not meaning to pull rank or anything because all our opinions are valid and I love a good, harsh review every now and again...but I'm somewhat of a Fahrenheit devotee and have owned and still do the original and subsequent reformulations. So please when I tell you this has shades of Fahrenheit or bears a resemblance then please believe it does. It might be easy or lazy to compare this to Fahrenheit because of leather and Violet, because Portrayal is a different perfume, but to say that the comparison is ridiculous or reductive (to either perfume) is simply wrong. My review from July 2019.... Right...Amouage Portrayal Man, is the last release under the creative direction of Christopher Chong (It's actually not but it's the first to be released after the announcement he was leaving his position.) and it's a real coup de grace. Going in a floral direction again, I really liked Imitation and this treads a conspicuously similar path in terms of 'feel'. My nose detects a leather accord, some subtle caraway or cumin, a clean green note (maybe galbanum?) beautiful violet accord which isn't overly sweet, or powdery and merges effortlessly into the buttery orris/leather of this fragrances beating heart. Then there's a soft, woody note developing, that is litterally pencil shavings, some people associate with cedar and vetiver (can't say I do) but more predominantly with a sandalwood for me. If it doesn't contain these I will eat my hat. So Portrayal Man reminds me of an outfit I used to wear to sixth form (before I got kicked out :) So indulge me for a moment. So it's mainly based around a full length, sheepskin jacket, which coupled with the rest of the outfit made me feel like John Shaft, when in reality I probably looked more like John Motson. Super thick, corduroy tousers with deep piping. A shirt in a kind of peanut brown, made from an unusual fabric that I used to describe as a mixture between suede and neoprene, wetsuit material, with a kind of rubbery sheen. Then an Authentic 1970's tie of my dad's that starts off about the width of a postage stamp and flares out to that of a Manila envelope, in a kind of silky, satin material (which is likely polyester! haha) in a pecan brown with Fanta orange stripes across it in a diagonal pattern. Completing the 'look' with some supple and well tenderised, suede moccasins. Yeah you can say it...I was one fly cat! haha. This fragrance oozes suede, with a lush greeness in the opening, alluding to the freshness of floral, violet leaf, peaking out their powdery little, purple, heads. It has a vague nod to Amouages history of more heady and robust incense fragrances peppered thoughout the men's and women's lines. That slight, dirt and even petrol like effect but very minimal and barely there, adding to the Fahrenheit associations and for all it's similar theme's, Portrayal is nothing like Fahrenheit in truth. So there you have it Houdini...you actually agree with him...look at the last line!!!! Well in context when you wear the fragrance you realise just how different it is, but initial associations and mentions of Fahrenheit are crucial in understanding and processing this Fragrance. I really liked it BTW but was it a standout or even as good as the last release Imitation...not really but it's not bad either.

7 years ago

I'm shocked that I never put pen to paper about this fragrance at the time I tried it (whenever that was?) Shocked because I actually thought this was a daft, bit of 'meh' that smelled vaguely of a apple, vanillic, musky haze and therefore pretty likable. I've subsequently worn it many times of the last few years (as I keep getting samples of the stuff!) desperately trying to understand the obvious 'bro' appeal and I have to say that Layton ...is the devil. What a load of rubbish, I don't think I've ever had a scent do this, I mean grow worse and worse in my affections. It's initially okay I guess but soon becomes cloying and unfair to compare to Boss Bottled in reality. Actually I have had another do this... Mancera Cedrat Boise another popular but terrible fragrance.

...

7 years ago

X Twist Sichuan Pepper

Clive Christian

houdini

At last!!!! This is finally in the database! I thought I was going mad...I tried it ages ago and even had a sample I think? and I couldn't find it on the CC website or online anywhere...as if I'd imagined it. Well it does exist, and although Clive takes a monumental amount of flack from purists, perfumistas, even fans of this kind of ridiculously opulent, luxury, bullshit are sometimes disparaging but let me tell you this stuff is AWE INSPIRING!!! What a fragrance!!! You get some of the heat and bite in the opening but I can't say this smells all that much of sichuan, perhaps when it settles similarly to pink pepper because this definitely has that character along with that sharpness you get from labdanum or something? It's positivity sweet, yet spicy nuance completely charmed me to the point where I was transfixed by the scent. It dries down to a more floral smell, I just thought it was fantastic. I remember it vividly and this was just a chance encounter in Selfridges probably 2 or 3 years ago now? but I sniffed my arm all night and wore a sample later which confirmed how much of a winner this is. It's a totally unique fragrance for me, and despite my own hangups and ingrained disdain for this brand, I have to say that some of these 'Twist' ones and the 'Noble' collection were very original. I feel the same about the Gourmand, the fougere, the rockrose and papyrus ones, all Fantastic. So why haven't I bought it? Well considering that this is £250 for 50ml it's at the higher end of what is acceptable for me to pay for perfume. However, it's not astronomical compared with other niche brands or the rest of the CC line most seem to be £375 and up. So in some crazy moment I might be tempted to get this but that is a reflection of how good I think it smells because the 'prestige' of owning CC has the reverse effect on me, I'm actually embarrassed to own such decadent stuff, like if I suddenly came into money, I couldn't drive around in a Ferrari, I'd feel like a twat.

7 years ago

Finally it's Rosamonda a perfume which is personally not of interest to me, because I wouldn't wear it. However, it is of interest in a 'clinically fascinating' sense. Philip Kraft described this fragrance recently as smelling like, dew covered roses complete with stem an thorns everything. That's what this is, a visceral, green, herbal take on the rose, not all pretty petals and jam this has some detritus to it. It's not quite dead rose but I detect more of a lean towards a geraniol (which the formula confirms) type of rose a more earthy affair. It's actually got somewhat of the Bulgarian absolute but with an all around more transparent feeling.

7 years ago

Well, well, well. You look at the notes or a basic description or even the formula provided, and you cringe hard and think...okay so Raspberry and leather....hmmmm... what raspberry and leather combo's are out there? Then your mind recoils after whizzing through a universe teeming with them, until you fix upon the largest and arguably brightest star in that crowded galaxy...Tuscan leather. But it's not. As bizarre as that sounds, it's truly not. Yes of course the association is there, but this is much more light and playful and as someone who's not really a fan of raspberry and fruity crap being juxtaposed with leather accords (hmmm...FM recently anyone? errrrr...The MOON, PROMISE, ROSE & CUIR) I've got to say this stuff is pretty nice. The jammy, sweet raspberry note is quite fresh and not cloying, the violet note is subtle and a little powdery and works insanely well with the fruitiness. Then there's the leather accord which is nothing hugely accurate but doesn't have any jarring, edgey bite or recognisable tropes of too much IBQ. This is a lighter, floral cuir base, a leather which is iris feeling and lightly cosmetic in approach. It smells more considered to me like the new Tuscan leather extreme or the Ombre leather if you had to compare it to a TF leather. It's pretty good then, but still not hugely in my taste wheelhouse. I'd just say don't dismiss it before wearing it.

7 years ago

In a line chock full of unabashed synthetic brews, Coffeeze actually looks like it contains lots of naturals but if you thought that makes for a realistic or even nice smelling fragrance...think again. Coffeeze is a hideous, olfactory assault and insult. The opening is like wow...this is interesting but then becomes and sweating, fettered, oud and patchouli abomination. It basically takes all the worst facets, awful rubbery patchouli, the mild skank of Laotian oud doesn't help proceedings, and then creamy tonka in the mix is just the catalyst needed to make something truly horrific. What grinds my gears the most?? NO COFFEE to speak of!!! Maybe there is? and that just adds to the problematic chords stuck by this bizarre perfume. Best forgotten. Who knows though? Some folks might love it?

7 years ago

Elemi and atlas cedar in the opening give a kind of piney, lemony, balmy resin effect. This subsides into a kind of plasticy, saffron leather accord which isn't very pleasurable. Then after hours when it's almost completely gone it smells sweetly of vanilla. (worth noting I was surprised as there's no vanilla noticeable for the first several hours) I don't like this fragrance and I hadn't seen the formula for it, nor had I read any notes. Very intriguing that everything you smell is in here (according to Fragrantica) ...that's rare. So perhaps this is a masterful work showing all those materials and properties off? I didn't particularly enjoy it though.

7 years ago

This perfume plugs directly into my current tastes, reminding me of loads of soft, gentile, musky things. I love the construction, great simplicity on the formula from Celine Ellena and nothing hidden in accords, speaking to the nature of this. I was surprised how little Ambrettolide is in here but I'm not suggesting this smells like any one thing because it doesn't. Superfusion is such an appropriate name for it but if you do like Galaxolide or musk mallow, soft, clean musks basically you will enjoy this but still be shown some originality with this perfume. One minor criticism is that it tends to fatigue and gets a bit, bready and wheaty on my skin when dried down to the IES baseafter the sweetness of the musks has died a touch. Still awesome though.

7 years ago

I'll have to try this again because my notes say 'green' chlorophyll but not basil crucially. A herbal green bergamot I described it as when it's compared here to Tacid a fragrance I felt had a basil note quite prominently. Anywho...no prizes for guessing that there's Cis-3-Hexanol in here giving it a bright, breezy, grassy vibe but balanced perfectly so as not to be intrusive. I enjoyed it but not something to be raved about.

7 years ago

oooh...This is rough. 70% ISO E SUPER (Not that it's a bad thing) in here with PEA in the opening, flitting between anosmic anonymity, and astringent sharpness akin to hairspray or a particularly potent bug killer. Truly not pleasant and I'm not apposed to this stuff at all, but in this particular combo, it's fairly god awful. Then when dried down it becomes better but it's essentially that 'barely there', skin minimalism which does have the dry, kinda appealing IES facets, perhaps cashmeran making it woodier and silkier? it also has a vague, paper and hint of curry note. reasonably enjoyable after the initial phase.

7 years ago

As cynical as the review below is... He has a point. As cynical as the review below that is... They have a point too. A marginal defence of this brand, they are overtly, telling and selling us a concept. A strong one I think, which shines a spotlight on perfumery practices in a very knowing and post modern way. The pop art, primary colours and slick packaging, Flacons etc...reflects this. And they're not extortionately expensive (are they?) However, I get the scepticism and I imagine they will end up in TK MAXX soon. Especially where the oud content of this particular one is concerned. Saving graces are that it doesn't have 'Oud' in the name and it's using a legit Indian Oud material (if a tiny amount) also, this fragrance really isn't intentionally an oud but obviously the perfumer felt it brought something to the formula? (I'm grasping here, because I don't know?) Anyway the other thing that's good about Sexcrush is that it's a nice perfume, giving a very balmy, resinous effect of amber, entombed in a vaguely medicinal 'bandage' note a bit like myrrh I suppose? and the obligatory rose accord. (Could be the oud?) feels a bit powdery, drying down the rose stays bright but feels much more about bass tones than top fluff or heart dominance. A modern amber I'd say. I liked it.

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7 years ago