Lots of perfumes with coconut notes get it entirely wrong, and you have to be careful the notes you pair it with, white florals neroli and jasmine and it can resemble cheap sunscreen, too gourmand a line up of accompaniments and it gets too sweet and cloying. Put lime or fruity notes with it and it becomes a pina collada or summer Exotic cocktail now I’m not saying all of these don’t work rather that it has to be a balanced use of these elements which can be said for perfume compositions in much broader terms. Anyway....Nejma 7 gets this coconut centric blend absolutely and entirely correct. Opulent, sweet and gourmand yet tempered with bitter cacao and a hint of patchouli with good quality woods and oud in the base, this is a really decent and relatively long lasting gourmand. Not quite interesting enough to love but a definite like and something gourmand and certainly coconut lovers should try because you’d be hard pressed to find anything with more quality. This is perfectly wearable for a man but I still have a instinct that it’s more feminine. Reminds me a little of Odin Roam 10 I even get a bit of the smooth, opulent and spicy ebony wood from this too.
I have to say that I always anticipate CdG releases with a fanboy level of enthusiasm and this was no different but I'm a bit late to the table on it. So disappointed that it doesn't deliver, I wanted something really cold and unnerving along the lines of a Narciso Roderiguez and this is echoed in a recent(ish) video by E Simplyputscents guy. I expected Wet, cement but less musky and with comme des garcon signature incense weirdness but alas this fragrance is not that at all! What concrete delivers is a modern, synthetic, woody scent which is a bit too sweet frankly considering the name and expected brief. Is this sandalwood? really? This is not what I consider, just sandalwood and CdG actually make one of the most potent and spicy sandalwoods you could hope for in blue santal. It's not a overly sweet smell, nor would I strictly call it cloying, but I did find it a little grating after a while. I thought it was okay on the whole but linear and not what I was expecting from a house with a reputation for pushing boundaries, in a good way. Strange but not the good strange I wanted.
I have to give this fragrance some props for the fact that it has three distinct phases which could easily be three different fragrances. This quality must be applauded. It starts out like the most chaotic and shambled mixture of warm and spicy vibes which made me think I was in for some sort of incense and amber affair. This then changes over a period of 20 mins to an hour into a fragrance I have DEFINITELY smelled before I just cannot place exactly what it is. It goes gourmand almost in this mid phase, becoming a sickly spiced, nutmeg, hints of cakey, spicebomb and warm vibes, I don't dislike it but the fact that there's yet another change in the drydown is welcome. Then there's the finale...a deep, creamy, heavenly, woody, resin which is gorgeous and sits low on the skin smelling nothing like the opening or heart. I can honestly say this is an enigma of a fragrance, the way it progresses gradually giving up it's secrets and although unremarkable by themselves add up to the kind of olfactory experience I look for when trying a new fragrance and Resin Sacre delivered a similar trifecta. So I like it for this reason but it didn't grab me enough to add it to the collection, reason being the middle bit is the longest lasting and my least favourite and the best bit at the end is too much of a skin scent. Oh the opening is interesting but aren't they all. Try though and see if you feel the same way about it?
This was the first I tried from this line and looking at the name I expected it to be in this style. Cologne Absolute has a citrus, green opening which is clean and soapy with the white florals coming on a bit as it develops. I love tarragon as a herb and the thought of a fragrance which features it at the forefront is great but something doesn't work as this settles. It became more herbal certainly, but not something I would enjoy wearing as something seems slightly off about this combination. Good on Tom Daxon (we will come to what I thought of the other three I sampled in later reviews) for not just making a classic cologne but maybe he should've done? I think for those that like it, this will be a real gem.
Hard to dislike but I found it quite uninspiring. The thought of an oud like this was very appealing and the geranium and cardamom give it a very clear and clean focus with a potent base of oud. Without doubt this is high quality and lasts very well, drying down to a very nice hum but nothing jumps out at all.
I tried this in Harvey Nicks on a recent trip to Edinburgh and it is an extremely decent fragrance. The opening is pure booze with all the delicacy of a fine single malt whisky and like a smother version of Atelier cologne Gold leather, I found this quality to be extremely appealing. As it settles it becomes a warm benzoin amber and suede leather and made me go “huh, I was sort of expecting that from the name but these phases are all great.” Then there’s the main kicker an accord of my favourite note labdanum which is slightly darker more spiced version of frankincense. Then there’s the lighter more uplifting olibanum note itself which basically what this dries down to. I’m really happy with it and describing it as another one trick pony like Avignon or full incense simply doesn’t do resin scare justice, because it’s a more interesting composition than that. Performance is no beast but very exceptable for an expensive but not extortionate fragrance.
If you are craving something unusual and herbal this will tick those boxes for you and that’s exactly the place I was in recently when I sampled this again. The composition of dirty is very interesting a sharp herbal minty opening, with a grassy quality and oakmoss and thyme which evokes dirt or at least a dirty quality, it’s hippy stuff which caught me in a good mood. This however is not regular wear for me and not even something I want in my arsenal but I’m apprecaiting the way it’s put together and the complementary notes.
This stuff slots effortlessly and perfectly into the Aqua line sharing all the class and clean uplifting vibes of Universalis etc... the citrus in the opening is a positive lime note which I like but becomes less distinct as it settles to a more mandarin/bergamot, this freshness is added to by the mint which is welcome and a marriage made in heaven. Doesn’t come off like a mojito though and it would be so easy to make the connection. It’s musky but with a clean floral combination to back it up and give it the signature of the aqua line. Again this isn’t doing anything new but rather tried and tested combinations and methods very well indeed. The drydown becomes slightly more feminine but that’s just a personal association because it’s neroli which is not only lovely but boosts citrus and gives an amazing base platform to display the top notes. I really like this scent it’s very refreshing, thirst quenching and classy, perfect for a hot summers day would instantly cool you down and soothe you. Although it becomes a quiet skin scent the performance is extremely good.
I agreed with the TdH comparison because it is apparent but please don’t make the mistake of thinking it’s a clone or in any way completely identical because it isn’t. The citrus is sharper opening with a positive grapefruit rather than orange, the earthy woods is supplied by a powerful, balsamic, oud note which is quite clean and somehow similar to the vetiver of the Hermes. This fragrance is clean, of decent quality and has superb performance with the citrus lasting a long time. I blind bought it a few years back and I’m still impressed by it.
This is a stunning fragrance. Right from the outset it delivers a hearty punch of jammy fruit notes like a kinda plum vibe. Then there's the heady whack of a balsamic, amber like accord which then gives way into the heart of iris and sandalwood. L'insomnuit does have a gourmand type appeal to it which I would say might come from the tonka bean, but it's not typical in anyway and is nothing like a deliberate gourmand. I get a sense from this perfume that it's not trying too hard to be anything in any category and is a light-hearted exercise in how to make something fun and smell exciting with a mix of notes I think are great together. I was hooked from the first whiff.
Wowza!!! This stuff is pretty special right here. Atkinsons are brand which I've admired from afar for some time but never committed to purchasing...until now that is and 41 Burlington arcade is the fragrance to tip me over the edge. I've very nearly bought Old bond street triple in the past and then haven't for whatever reason but that's a decent, masculine freshie. I'd say this shares the same kind of fresh, citrus/musk attitude and is incredibly invigorating with one key kicker which is present right from the outset and that's pepper. This stuff is a pepper bomb, in a good way the notes are so complimentary from the sharp bitter grapefruit opening, to the wet flint spark, earthy vetiver and peppery liquorice accord of the main body of this fragrance. It is straight up impressive and does put me in mind of Clive Christian V (I think it's V...the pepper one anyway) and of course in the designer realm the now discontinued and sort after Marc Jacobs BANG! such is the peppery dominance of this creation. Somehow 41 Burlington manages to be simultaneously more classy and more down to earth and masculine than either of those. A perfect combination of things coming together, I like the brand, I like the notes and execution of the fragrance and I like the fact that it is masculine, without being inaccessible to the female crowd but in my opinion, it's not exactly unisex. I like the unique nature of it too and a prime example of how to make a fragrance subtly smoky but show restraint. It's really good basically. The performance was hard to asses from the first wear but it's no monster and maybe you'd expect that from the price etc...but even if it's poor I will let it have a pass because I really enjoyed it. My girlfriend complimented it and from distance too as the projection and silage was massive to begin with before dying down. Fresh but woody and extremely spicy, it's a dream this one, I love it and will probably buy it.
Okay so I've manage to try a few more Zara fragrances and I have to say these two leather ones aren't really leathery. I can give this one a pass because the vanilla/tonka tones in here do evoke a leathery base but the Aventus clone one? I suppose birch smoke could be conceived as leathery...but not really. Okay that aside and this scent is not instantly recognisable until it settles and the Ultra Male comparisons are clear and accurate. Opens with that gourmand, ultra sticky sweet notes a bit fruity, nondescript, unnatural fruit... bubblegum. Then it dries down to a clonker of a tonka, sickly, dense, dirty vanilla and although I'd say extremely similar to ultra male, this is somehow cheaper and more cloying. I still to this day do not understand why I like Ultra male, I should hate it but it's a total pussy cat on my skin and smells quite good. Gourmand Leather however just smells like the plethora of awful Tonka based scents of a few years back. It's okay I suppose and I don't hate it, the opening is not only different to Ultra Male but I thought it wasn't bad, if you want something heavy and clunkily warm and sweet.
When will I ever learn eh? I blind bought this because I'm a bit obsessed with Jaguar fragrances at the moment. I never realised just how many there were out there, I know there's not that many compared to some brands but they seem to keep popping up in TK Maxx. Following a quick check on here I think to myself I'll have a punt on a little 40ml of this or that. I own one of the Loewe Solo line and Jag Red is compared to Absoluto (probably my favourite of those) add that to the comparisons with BMen and I figured it was a no brainer, but more about that in a minute. Generally speaking Jaguar Red is a fruity, oriental fragrance which is in keeping with the last one I got Jaguar Gold but they both suffer from what I've dubbed the 'Dunhill effect'. Nice ideas which come from diferent places to the mainstream but just kinda cheaply executed. In fairness to Dunhill though they have some real unique releases like Edition. Anyway...Red opens up very strangely indeed with a clean, kind of bandage smell, and not something particularly pleasant, which had me thinking 'This is nothing like BMen!!!' as I had read in the comment below. Then after 30 seconds or so is transformed with a tart fruitiness, the raspberry, blueberry and bergamot must conspire to make a kind of sweet/sour rhubarb aroma and there it is....sure enough...BMen. This is quite miraculous really but not the end of the story because that 'bandage' weirdness does come back to haunt in the drydown. For the main part though it's a very interesting vibe, worthy of Mugler himself, a dirty vanilla, patchouli, extremely complex in nature with a little tar and wood in there. Unfortunately this doesn't last that long before it enters another phase which effectly and gradually strips those fascinating qualities down to a cheap, much cleaner but unnerving skin scent. I think the bandage thing I described fits in with the comparisons to the Loewe Solo line, all of which have this quality but in them it seems more deliberate, this just seems a bit hap hazard and messy. It's not bad though and it certainly created some interest. Red is a worthy BMen substitute at least for a while, with comparative performance but don't go thinking you've found a replacement for the increasingly scarce Mugler because it ain't.
This fragrance immediately reminded me of an extremely specific time and place. The scenario was...Drinking wine at my firends house. When I asked my partner to try this perfume and then I described what I thought, and she said..."Yeah it's totally that....It's incense and cheap candles." The bitchy comment about these particular friends aside, she's kinda right. The opening is a syrupy resin and orange blossom a sweet, messy construction but with a hippy joss stick backbone I'm assuming from myrrh. It's quite linear and not really what I would describe as leathery in the dry down but I recognise this 'leather' accord from other fragrances so I know it's considered acceptable to describe it in those terms. The wine element is interesting, not that it smells of wine but evoked memories of drinking the stuff, thought provoking I guess. I don't like this and I don't want to smell of it, although the drydown is a little bit nicer. I'd give it a miss. Update: It's funny what 12 months and a revisit can yield, I actually really like this fragrance now. The opening is a transparent floral musk, with some sweet element, progressing into a leathery drydown which is absolutely fantastic. It's not a full on leather accord, just a gently leathery spine with some fresher resin notes and a tiny hint of smoke. The floral/leathery nature and hint of honied sweetness reminds me somewhat of immortelle but it's clearly not immortelle if that makes even the tiniest bit of sense? I'm really enjoying this today.
Worn this twice now and it's not made a massive impression on me to be honest. I like it, and it's interesting to see these 'Intense' versions released within the Tom Ford Private blend line. I never really understood the masses of praise heaped on the original Oud Wood, it's okay but weirdly aloof and medicinal for such, across the board praise, I would've thought. Guess I'm wrong again. This Intense version is not a heightened version of the original and I for one am glad, to say it's not even remotely similar isn't strictly true because a hint of the accord pokes it's head out when it settles. This is probably due to the oud component being similar. Oud Wood Intense however is a much more rubbery and authentic mixed woody affair, with an opening of cypress and animal notes. It's a moody scent but never dark, more cuddly and drying down to a kind of leather smell perhaps with hints of tobacco? Is this going to be as popular as the original...I doubt it and suspect some might not even enjoy it at all, but there can be no doubt what we have here is another high quality edition to the Tom Ford line. I mentioned I've worn it twice and would definitely wear it again, perhaps I will fall for it then who knows. Worth a sniff though for sure.
I must be seriously missing something here because I didn't like this. No scratch that....It's very difficult for me to dislike something, I could tolerate it, even enjoy aspects of it but put together Baraonda doesn't work for me. The opening to me smells like raspberry/strawberry, unctuously sweet and feminine with a jammy rose note. I didn't actually read the notes beforehand and sometimes alcohol notes can be hard to define but there's an undoubtedly malty, boozy note of positive whisky, which started to emerge. This leads into a chunkier and more Nasomatto base of musk mallow and modern amber. It's alright, I can see why fans of the slightly unusual would enjoy this. It comes from a more indy perfume place and is truly trying to innovate reminscent of slumberhouse or 4160 Tuesdays, something like that. I equate Baraonda to when contestants on Masterchef insist that wacky flavour combinations like, Halibut and stawberry compote go together, despite the experts warning them prior that "...They absolutely won't!" but they persevere anyway and their resulting dish is a disaster. Actually that might be a bad example because at least some balance is displayed here and the tart sweetness of the opening is counteracted by the robust whisky...I just don't like it is all. I will give it another chance to convince me but I'm always intrigued when there's love for something I don't understand. Generally speaking there's some degree of consensus among fragrance heads and the relatively easily pleased like myself, but I feel on the outside looking in with this one.
I checked the notes before blind buying this and I was maybe expecting something a little like Boss Bottled, probably because I saw apple and vanilla among the notes. You do get that, sort of. I've never tried Dunhill Desire Red but if this is similar then I'm not missing all that much. I don't hate it, in fact the very deep drydown is amazing but we will get to that in a moment. The opening is a potently tart, sweetness with citrus but an over all feel of sensual warmth of woody vanilla. My problem is that it smells a little cheap and something I don't dislike but I'm not crazy about either. There's depth there but it's confused and crowd pleasing for the same reason I'm not mad about 1 Million or Eros. I believe there's an incense/resin/amber smell in Jaguar Classic Gold which really reveals itself in the drydown. It kinda became similar to CdG Florential, a kinda berry like resinous smell that's quite lovely. All that was lurking underneath a slightly harsh, cheesy fragrance...I'm definitely going to wear it. Performance was pretty good too.
My review is more of a straight up appraisal than a poetic ode to Slow Explosions...but it's deserving of them. The review below mine hits it pretty much spot on, the opening is a hell of a saffron note and nothing slow about that explosion, to my nose. It's rough, raw and rubbery, stinging the nose but imparting a beautiful earthy, expensive and unique smell that only saffron can. I don't understand why I love saffron so much? It's not really what I would describe as a 'nice' smell, it's complex and hard to get along with but narcotically enchanting and addictive. What is clever about Slow explosions is it's kinda cool and transparent yet with some hot, oriental bite. Then as it settles the acidic cider/apple note pokes out it's head and we start to get a gentle, wafting rose, which is reminiscent of something like a Dior Ambre nuit type rose note. The mid section becomes pot pouri, not in a bad sense but took me back to a shop I used to go in as a child, dry rose petals and sandalwood. It's then a smooth landing in the drydown, cashmerian and soft leather and still hints of the saffron. Performance is okay but nothing phenomenal, I can still smell it after 6 hours but very faintly. So..... Great composition, nice journey and an interesting scent but after all that...I still don't reckon I'd wear it. Josh Meyer never fails to create interest. Update: 14/02/23 Look this is a phenomenal piece of work, wearing it again the other week I realised just how great this is. The bravery of the saffron and honey working in tandem to create a totally unique and almost offputtingly arty opening to this perfume, it seems crude, unrefined in some way. Then it opens out and rounds off but never loses it's core theme of excitement. This is such a high concept, pure idea conveyed with such clarity to me, it's chinese new year, it's Cai Guo-Qiang's artwork, it's fireworks, explosions but they ain't slow, at least not to begin with. I adore this perfume and must have it in my collection.
This is a soft, effeminate, cream puff of a fragrance but I couldn't be more excited about it. It's not the bold, brash chameleon we tend to want unknown niche fragrance like this to be, and although delicate, is full of interesting facets. Immediately reminded me of a more complicated version of Donna Karan Fuel for Men and for that reason I can't understand why sandalwood is so low on the note votes, but there you go. The opening is sweet and powerful but fleeting mixture of fruits and orange blossom, then gives way to a prominent and biting labdanum which acts as the middle ground to what Wild eventually becomes, and that's a powdery, woody scent. This is mainly a milky santal and clean, soapy spice of cardamom but with hints artemisia and exotic resin. The drydown is what I'd call 'white leather' it's soft and almost make up like which is probably what gives this such a feminine lean. As I mentioned I think it's got that crayons and epitome of 'powdery notes' smell, reminding me of not just Fuel but a couple of others like Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena and Atelier cologne Santal Carmin. I think with leather and heavier notes this perfume is elevated to one of the best in this style I've tried. Thoroughly enjoyed this one.
I loved Tonnare and was equally interested what else BeauFort had to offer and this one didn't disappoint. The opening is absolutely heavenly improving on a Nasomatto type theme by just making things a little more grown up and evoking a time and place gone by. I'd say it's smoky but not in the usual and obvious way, and resinous in an almost gourmand sense but savory...if that makes any sense? The rum is adding it's booziness, the gunpowder works right through to the dry down giving an amazing quality and freshening proceedings with hints of earth, metal and greenness. Then the tobacco resides in the heart of Iron Duke. Notes which are all plainly displayed in a quite brilliant composition that dries down to a real and sumptuous leather but with that resinous woody quality there too. This is a triumph of a fragrance, brilliantly realised, well balanced and oozing with quality. The fragrance starts out fantastically and dries down to a mature and earthy smell, which I can't fault in any way. The name of this fragrance is fitting right from the first sniff....Iron Duke is not the sledgehammer you might expect and definitely shows more restraint that Tonnare. Both share the bold, refined and considered qualities which seem to be the calling card of this house.
I sampled this because I liked the name but when I read the notes was preparing myself for an experience outside of my tastes. However, I actually really enjoyed Every storm a serenade, it opens up with a pine freshness from spruce and a hint of ucalyptus, with a minty, salty sea breeze and vetiver. Ambergris with that calone accord just grows until drying down to something less appealing in the form or the milky, seaside thing I’d been expecting from the off, but by that point it had charmed me. This is a artisan aquatic perfume who’s MO I understand and quite enjoyed because it’s mellow and not too invasive but lasted well and changed all the while.
This is one of the most stunning and well realised and unadulterated labdanum fragrances I’ve ever smelled. I wouldn’t of minded it being sharper, harsher and less balanced but Marquis de Sade gives up every facet of incense and resin from bright, frankinscense type freshness to dry benzoin warmth and the spicy density of tolu balm, yet with its own quality too. Labdanum is my favourite ingredient in perfumery with good reason and easily complex enough to star solo in a perfume. The only thing that prevents me from buying this straight away, outright and with no hesitation, is the performance or lack thereof. Labdanum is a notorious catalyst, designed for use within a composition and despite smelling heavenly is like most resins, they go on heavy and luxurious but it’s a bit of an illusion as they fade rapidly. I’m also not sure this is raw or daring enough to bear the name Marquis de Sade. I’m not one to moan about performance but gone after two hours ain’t good enough or worth the money, although I love the smell so much I might reassess that in the future.
Just to add to my already gushing review below, I tried this again the other day as I'd had a discussion with another Labdanum lover online. I actually played down my love of it, perhaps because the memory of trying it wasn't that fresh, and I'd hoped performance would've been better. However, all these fears have been allayed as this is a fantastic fragrance which lasted very well this time around and was my only minor gripe previously because the smell is my idea of heaven. Shame it's sold out at the retailer who had it for the best price because I'm over the moon with it and need it in my life.
A very enjoyable and interesting fragrance, to be honest it opened differently to how I expected. I figured there would be a bright citrus blast from the elemi, which would die a relatively quick death but to my surprise the vanilla was the first hit and it's a very clean, custard like vanilla which proceeds to get a bit dirtier as it settles. By this point the elemi is chiming giving an incense and grapefruit like sharpness but Long courrier is a gourmand experience in the main and caramel like without being overly sugary or sweet, maybe it's some bitterness from the cacao? The balance of the fragrance as it dries down is excellent and the orange note is absolutely clear to me, reminiscent of an orange liquor or something, I'm surprised it's not been voted up more. I'll tell you what this fragrance reminds me of and it's the L’Art et la Matière line from Guerlain, that custard-esque vanilla heart but with warm resinous, woody qualities and clear, well executed, long lasting fruity hints. Long courrier's dry down speaks of much warmer resins of benzoin....so Benzoin and vanilla is basically 'amber' right? ... well not really because the elemi lightens the vibe somewhat. It's a clever scent, likeable and quite a classy smell. The fact it has me arguing with myself is proof positive of that, but I'm not sure I'd wear it. The jury is still out for me on the combination of bright/green/fizzy resins and vanilla bases, It's like making a white russian then topping it up with lemonade or making a ruby grapefruit cheese cake....is acidity and creaminess a good mix? I know we have established that this is warmer and woodier than that and that the balance is classy and puts me in mind of Guerlain, I'm just not sure why something with so many elements I enjoy, isn't launching me into olfactory heaven? A good fragrance then which is clearly thought provoking, with a mellow dry down and acceptable performance, it's a thumbs up but many not one I want to add to the wardrobe.....yet.
Oh Lord! I can't wait to try this. The original EDP is one of the most interesting oud fragrances ever made. The silk/satin etc... moods were kinda the first extension of this but more rosey or amber like or whatever. With a bit of luck this will stick to the original and be like the harshest (in a good way) saffron opening to divine and precious Laotian oud. To be honest the original is potent enough but in the form of a extrait, I'm thinking it could potentially be mind blowing. For one reason or another I never bought MFK Oud despite my love and praise but this version might tip me over the edge despite it being more expensive more than likely.
Finally got my nose and this and I have to say Mr Kurkdjian this is a sublime creation, absolutely what I was anticipating, the amped up Oud Extrait I’d hoped for. Essentially there’s nothing new in here except for more being even more luxurious than the EDP. The opening plays around even less but still gives you an almost bright, stinging sharp resinous quality of Elemy, a ton of long lasting and dominant saffron on that loasian oud which keeps coming and coming. Hate to lower the tone here but ( I’m going to anyway), I would equate MFK Oud to an acid trip, just when you’re beginning to get your head around the turbulent first hour or so...the effects just keep coming on stronger and stronger in waves, until the drydown which is mellow and relaxed with any perceived hard edges smoothed away into a blissful landing. I love this fragrance and I’m going to purchase it, although I’ve been saying that about the original since about 2013 but hey.
