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Noiressence

J.U.S Parfums

houdini

Intriguing formula, Carlin hiding all the juicy stuff within the accords but it's pretty straight up I thought. The leather base prominent and iris poking through, I love the smell of it but not wildly original. I need to sniff it again to be honest but I liked it very much. Anything of note about the formula? 1% Fleur d'oranger which I know from using the expensive absolute, is quite easily masked. I don't recall smelling it in this, so yeah...I'll have to revisit? 1/3 of the formula is hedione which is not uncommon but is probably what's supporting those iris (and barely detectable Orange blossom) notes from popping through.

7 years ago

I was expecting to like this one as much as I did not because of the ginger element but the fact that it's not that easy to pull off. Gingerlise doesn't manage it either really. I think I was imagining a kind of crystallised ginger in this, not sure I was actually smelling it though? However it gives that impression. I will give it a 'light' transparent ginger note at best however that's not where the fun lies. Gingerlise has a glorious citrus opening which has all the freshness of lemongrass with none of the horrible part, so easy to overdose in a citrus accord but so beneficial to it's lasting power and overall roundness, when you get it right. To me it had lime dominance, not the green bergamot or typical citrus this packs the punch and originality I look for in a fresh fragrance. However, it's very short lived sitting on a light musky base and only lasted a couple of hours. Shame because this was a surprising like for me.

7 years ago

A piece of Amber repeated dunked into the dead sea and dried, covering it in crystalline salt. This is a modern, ambergris recreation, IES dominant in the opening drying to a leathery, amber accord which then turns a Little soured and resembles Amberome base, which isn't in here but is actually real labdanum according to the formula. Strange though because it has a distinctly rubbery, mineral odour that I associate with it, bit odd for me. Reminded me of 'Slate' a perfume from Bath House in the drydown. The saltiness with the largely modern, woody, amber is kinda interesting I suppose? Would I wear it? No.But it's not offensive. Anything interesting to note about the formula supplied for this one? Not really other than it's considered as an 'Oriental Vanilla' by it's creator(???) bit odd. 30% Iso E Super which is not surprising or haute compared to some.

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7 years ago

Sex and the Sea Neroli

Francesca Bianchi

houdini

Nope! This is hideous too. An overly strong waxy neroli temporally masks the awful almond, salty, coconut, creamy, murky childhood medicine smell of the original..but dies after the first 20 mins. Not a fan.

7 years ago

One of the strangest olfactory experiences I can recall from recent times fantastical and awful in equal measure. With my sensible hat on this is a loud, brash overly harsh, fruity oud mess. The opening flits between exotic but entirely unnatural fruits I thought kinda resembled red berries, mango and even pineapple at times. Not surprised to see all the fruits listed and perhaps lychee is exactly it? This is juxtaposed against a strongly animalic, cheese smell of oud in the top notes but it's quite fleeting only lasting 20 minutes or so before a relentless, smoky, dirty leather and synthetic musky, amber accords develop which smells like every cuir base ever conceived of, all mixed together with a dry, tenacious flith of Isobutyl Quinoline and saffron. However, despite this seemingly negative slant to my review so far, I actually think Moon is a pretty original and interesting piece. It's not the meek, uninspiring effort that I thought Rose & Cuir turned out to be and I think you will get some bang for your buck or Dirham? as this is undoubtedly being pushed towards the middle eastern market. The Moon is so bonkers, I couldn't wear it. This is a taste thing purely and I'm in a phase of gentle, Chanel refinement at present and stuff like this just seems like it has neon signs on it and huge thug life sirens going off! The Moon is the precocious drama school kid dancing around and furiously trying to steal the limelight.

7 years ago

This is fantastic. My favourite from Francesca's line I think? Even though it smells incredibly familiar, perhaps I'm just a creature of habit? It's pretty classical chypre/fougere bizness and has the opening of eau de cologne, sharp bits but with great materials. Namely citus in the opening, green, herbal bergamot into oakmoss and that orris and more prominent vetiver woods. Francesca is a master of leather feeling accords and pretty much each fragrance has an entirely different look of leather. Estruscan water is more classically in the aromatic VC&A, aramis, safari...sort of territory. It's light on it's feet though and perhaps a touch more rugged and real or just less refined than classic designer fair of a similar ilk. I think the freshness in this really elevates it and gives a welcome breath of fresh air from some of the more claustrophobic creations in her repertoire.

7 years ago

Francesca unveiled two new releases at Pitti this year and although I couldn't make it, very kindly sent me a sample of this, so Bless your heart. I love Black Knight. It's fantastic! I can't place the fragrance that it actually does smell like, but here's a few that if you're familiar with might give a flavour of what to expect. Elements of Iris Nazarena, Dior Homme, Lonestar memories Coal or Coven (Andrea Maack) and maybe Carven vetiver. Opens not nearly as vetiver based as the description had me thinking, buttery orris, flecks of vegetal and greens with a chunky, soiled earth and off kilter sweetness of patchouli. It's a soft leathery accord built around a iris/orris and then the oily, grubby rag of vetiver just thrown in to give some roughage to the otherwise silky smoothness of Orris root. There's a lightly cosmetic effect, mineral, stone qualities of a quarry or mine. It's very lightly smokey but not thin or brittle. Broadly masculine leaning for what that's worth, and the balance of elements is perfect.

7 years ago

I think Francesca is very adept at creating that 'skin' smell but with varying degrees of success as to whether it agrees with my tastes. In this case I think it works fairly well, although It's still difficult to say whether I like Angel dust or not. This is crudely a honey sweetened balsamic with a dirty musk undercurrent and it's a classic combo really viewed through the lens of an indy perfumer who likes to turn things upto 11 especially the animal element. Here it's reasonably subdued the amber is light, floral powdery, and probably the most retrained that she gets in her repertoire.

7 years ago

This is the problem when you get to know perfumers (in an internet/social media sense) that it becomes increasingly hard to punch their 'baby' square in the face! In fact, forget punching try taking a flying run up an drop kicking their baby square in the thorax! Sex and the sea is HORRENDOUS. (So sorry Francesca I love you xxxx) But truth be told this is a nightmare of a perfume and I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say technically (if you respect my opinion in that regard?) and taste wise this makes me say... why??? Why on earth would this get past the stringent checks and workings a perfumer does when creating a formula? The opening is just crazy in it's sweetness, like I felt my teeth getting cavities but I persevere because all Bianchi's have this concentrated opening, only to blossom into beauties...not this time. That sweet phase lasts for a minute or so then you're hit with a milky, murky, fatty, lactonic, fruity/coconut which believe it or not I actually don't mind as a note in many perfumes but here it's portrayed with a certain wickedness...and not wickedness in a good way! Perhaps it's the context but I smell a heavy and crude dose of civet replacer which coupled with the general vibes in sex and the sea, smells pissy and dirty and not in a thoughtful, indolic way or a sweet animal furry way. It's somewhat salty and ambergris is undoubtedly here perhaps giving that impression and contributing to the problematic animal tones? There's a sweetness of vanilla to it at the same time and through some perverse interest, I'm struggling to find positives in S&tS. It has the texture of some tepid medicine administered as a child... just odd. This is a real stinker and true to form it's monstrous in performance. I hated it. Can Sex & the sea Neroli be good? I'm apprehensive to find out.

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7 years ago

Amanece La Bella Cibeles

Loewe

houdini

This is a gently refined perfume but essentially a kind of sweet, floral, gourmand and doppelganger of Lancome La Vie est Belle. Which is a sort of linear vanilla warmth and gentle rose, perhaps touches of light musk. I'd never wear it personally but I completely see the feminine appeal and it's very nicely put together. I just like Loewe as a brand.

7 years ago

I only had a brief spritz and I do have some samples of this so a further update is on the cards. However, first impressions are very good. This is a solid citrus accord as you'd expect from AdP which conveys the slightly more exotic, lemon/grapefruit aspect you get from Yuzu. It's not spiky though, very smooth. Musk base. First impressions are very good...wasn't a huge performer but I'm going to wear it properly to determine that in more detail. It somehow has that cloudy rather than clear juice sense to it.

7 years ago

Okay let's break this down. Bianchi's fragrances are so loaded and potent that the base notes have top notes if you know what I mean and the clarity in the opening can sometimes be lost. Youmust be patient though because these fragrances shift in tonality as they mature on your skin. The opening of this is sweetly a mixture of sweetly resinous and oriental and huge amounts of animalic notes. Primarily it has that 'cheese' smell you get from real civet (not the non animal replacement) and some oud oils. It's a barnyard connundrum/carcrash...and interesting to me...somewhat of an olfactory psychonaut but is it pleasant perfume...not particularly. However all is revealed and forgiven in the drydown when The lover's tale mutates into the most beautiful, castoreum leather and buttery floral scent (like Cuir de Russie) and just oozes masses of quality. Absolutely sublime. reminscent of a much nicer and smoother experience than Cuir d'Arabie by Montale but somewhat analogous with the harsh opening. It's brilliant though. I want a bottle but I don't want anyone to smell me for the first hour or so?

7 years ago

So this has been a long time coming, I'd heard massively positive things about Francesca's work and was slow to get samples, for some strange reason? Anyway I started with Under my skin as this appeared to be the one with the most reviews and one that people seemed to be feeling earth-moving, epoch shattering connections with. Well I have to say I didn't feel all that connected to Under my skin at first. The quality materials and swathes of heavy, animal tinged spices explode out of the bottle at you. I love cumin and this has that sweaty, animalic, civet replacement dose but frankly it felt a little clumsy and kinda all over the place in the opening. I had the same thoughts as Bengale Rouge recently... Was this really the scent that was compared to vintage Guerlain's and the like? Because at the moment it feels distinctly Indy like. However, similar to Bengale Rouge it's an ugly ducking that becomes the proverbial swan and the drydown soars majestically. It gets progressively, sweeter, muskier and everything tightens up or loosens off? (one of them?) a bit like the skin or epidermal layer this is apparently under? Well, not apparently, it is under, and after two hours all the chaotic 'offness' had gone and it was under mine for sure. The soft, spicy, animalic undertones are just like warm, slightly dirty fur. The spicy cinnamon facets, lending a kind of tolu balm sense of subtly and a sweet musky nature throughout, balances perfectly now, and all is calm and right with the world. I learned the lesson a long time ago that some (especially indy and largely natural) fragrances have to go through some exceptionally potent (to the point of unpleasantness) phases to reach the place they really want to be...which is dried down and working with our skin, which is exactly where this perfume is at home....On skin....or under in? whatever?!?!? I will wear it properly to determine my thoughts further but it's a real heavy hitter and projected strongly as well as being super tenacious.

7 years ago

I enjoyed this very much and without moaning about price once again I think I couldn't get on board enough with this fragrance to justify the pricetag. I found this to be one of the bolder, more standout in the City collection, probably just due to the nature of Tobacco...really? Being all rich, dark and satisfying. Do they bear a resemblance to the city's they are based on? Is Miami Tobacco because of the strong Cuban links? or am I over thinking things? Anyway it has a lovely boozy, opening, lightly smokey feel into a deep tobacco accord, with patchouli, and gentle spices, which smells to me authentic and well judged.

7 years ago

I was excited for this. I'm a huge fan of blushed, chic, little, pretty musk fragrances like this. The warm, clean cotton-like effect of musk mallow is right up my street and I tried this on a day I purchased Mugler Over the musk. Not to mention a great perfumer at the helm this one was set to knock it out of the park. Frankly I feel like one of those Millionaire twats on Dragon's den looking at a potentially attractive business proposition but as the pitch from the nervy entrepreneur wears on the whole thing starts to fall apart! then when we get to the figures??? Wow! It really becomes un-investable. I couldn't smell it on the strip really...at all...like Iso E Super it was barely there but I got a light musky, fruity sweet smell....but I had to strain to get anything! On skin it opens up but isn't quite like the poofy, warmth I'd envisaged, more clinical and modern, synthetic feeling. Now it would be interesting to see if there's real musk mallow in this having made that statement? It's very nice, sits close to the skin and the fact that it doesn't resemble what I expect from an ambrette fragrance or an accord made from ambrettolide, just works in it's favour, making me more likely to add it to the collection. Aside from one fact... The city exclusives are in excess of £360 in the UK. I mean...seriously Le Labo? I know hipsters often have a few quid and will splash for the sake of fashion and trends but even they'd think you were taking the piss a bit with this one.

7 years ago

Have I entered a parallel universe? Is this fragrance going to dramatically transform on contact with my skin and become this gross abomination that pretty much every review here agrees that it is? Now this is hasty and premature of me to offer a proper review without doing so, spraying it on a card as I have done. Let me go massively against the grain here and say that this is reminiscent of Christian Dior Fahrenheit but with drier more overt IES tones and parched ionones which mutate into a modern leather and faint diesel fume accord. This is par for the Durga course for me, uncompromising yet trendy and modern. I get the tartness of rhubarb in the opening and I think that pairs well with violet. I will update this review when I’ve warn this one but I thought it was pretty good, not earth shattering, but not quite derivative either.

7 years ago

This fragrance is DREAMY. Everything from this house is of the highest quality and perfect concepts everytime, from the three I've tried I'm enamoured by all of them. Oriental Velours is probably the most accurately myrrh based fragrance you will find. If you love the raw material then this will excite you. If you love a warm, oriental cuddle of a scent...this will excite you. If you want a smooth musky scent, this one will engage you. I thought it was brilliant. It's not you're usual balsamic either but has nods towards classic oriental perfumes without feeling at all derivative, musk and vanilla/amber sweetness are evoked in the opening before drying down to a more medicinal, herbal myrrh note which is perfectly balanced so it doesn't become too dominant (quite hard when trying to make it stand out but not dominate.) I love this but I think I preferred Musc des Sables for my collection but I'd defintely consider this in future for sure.

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7 years ago

D&G Anthology La Lune 18

Dolce&Gabbana

houdini

I don't understand how I'm capable of loving such an austere piece of understatement, a modern, transparent, white flower 'thing'which could just as easily be dismissed as cheap and throwaway but it's actually fantastic. This is often what I imagine a lilly to smell like a watery, white floral, muguet when in reality they have more in common with musc ravageur than this. (to me anyway) La Lune is basically an uber light tuberose and that's what makes it so compelling...I don't need to be bludgeoned over the head with a waxy, bubblegum tuberose all the time. This tickles my white floral pickle just the right amount. Coupled with the fact I think this fragrance is woody and lightly powdered after that cool, green opening. La Lune evokes some of the 'night blooming' vibe of dewy, cool, wetness, but also a pale, translucent moon, visible during the day. When dried down the effect is anything but cheap for me a delicate violet/iris/synthetic orris sweetness emerges but doesn't dominate. It seems like a very weak, watery EDC (as do many of this line) but I've found it lasts really well. It's now a mildly soapy, shampoo like affair which would normally repel me, but I love this fragrance. It's a wearable not overly feminine, floral fragrance that I'm thoroughly enjoying. 'Dans la Lune' or 'Moonstruck' (which is a great word) is a french phrase for being absent minded or 'having your head in the clouds.' and I completely get why. It might be cheap and cheerful but I think it also has more substance to it than I perhaps might've given it credit for on first sniff. Compared to other 'white flower' fragrances like the new Chanel Gabrielle EDP for example, this is infinitely more appealing and wearable to me.

7 years ago

This stuff has all the tropical, exoticism of Ylang but with a Guerlain type restraint not being as carnal or OTT, or "YAS QWEEN" as some Ylan ylang perfumes. Don't think that this stuff is a slouch or doesn't hit you in the face in the opening with a candy, banana/pineapple, waxy, super femme flowery vibe... because totally does. However, as I mentioned it's tempered and just gets nicer and nicer as it dries down displaying more powdery, deep, Wasser genius. Now I tend to like Ylang when it's coupled with jasmine or it's with bigger more amber bases just because they tend to warm up and seem less flowery on me. This one has somewhat of that aspect but really it's quite light and cheerful but without lacking substance. I'm surprised how wearable I found it, however it's still not for me to wear but I still give it the highest praise and If you like Guerlain and exotic florals this might just be the holy grail for you? If I smelled this on a woman, I'd find it very classy and alluring...whatever that is worth? Update: 06/09/21 I can't get this perfume out of my head. It's stayed with me and that is pretty rare. I actually rate this as one of the best in this art and materials line, that's really saying something too because it's a really fine line of perfumes, with many classics. It's FANTASTIC! I might have to shell out the big bucks you know? For a YLANG perfume??? WTF??? Not my usual cup o tea, I need to try it again to make absolutely certain but I found it an exquisite, light, summery fragrance but with depth and a hint of warmth. Lovely stuff.

7 years ago

Wow! I hadn't revisited this line in some time and I don't even think this wasn't even released the last time I did? Neroli and I have a strange love/hate thing going on but I'm increasingly a lover of all things neroli and orange blossom. This is ultimately about three vital elements and I don't need any list of notes or ingredients to tell me that Tea, Neroli, and petitgrain feature in this beautiful perfume. A long lasting vaguely metallic, smoky tea note, is what the dry down leaves you with but the opening has that green element I love about authentic and well judged neroli perfumes (I adored Abel's Golden Neroli for this) coupled with the unmistakable, substantive citrus smell of petitgrain. Now I associate this line with having the same vanilla theme running through them and although not overt and perhaps imagined? I detect the rounding effect and smoothness associated with it rather than overt sweetness or anything. This is sublime perfume and really prominent with tea after several hours. I thought it was inspired and a welcome break from the Neroli portofino, soapy type Neroli's this is just in a whole other class of it's own.

7 years ago

This is an unusual fragrance in that the Powdery ionones are cold and green, almost geranium or rose like, the violet sweetness only just rears it's head as it settles right in. There's clearly a clean, musky oud at the back of that maleki variety, (AdP Calonia Oud or Guerlain Santal Royal) but dialled right back again. It's a interesting oud but I don't like it and I'd never choose to wear it. Update: I thought to myself what a bizarre old review this is, but it's only from last year. Can't believe I thought this was 'oud-like' in the vain of a Colonia or Santal or Oud Maleki because it really isn't upon wearing it today. It's more of a rough sawn, sandalwood joss stick with some pot pouri and a definite nutmeg note. I don't mean any of these things is a bad way, It's a very appealing fragrance and not as piercing or odd as the oud dominated comparisons I made first time around, in fact oud and synth oud purists would be annoyed that it's got oud in the title. Re:Update: I was thinking what does this remind me of? I'm really not sure? Then it hit me, and it's only a very mild association, Tom Ford's Noir for men which is a fantastic, dark complex fragrance and this is not that at all nor is it as round and smooth as Noir.

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7 years ago

Eternity for Men Eau de Parfum

Calvin Klein

houdini

The general feeling here is that this is a pretty good release, I found it really hard to make my mind up. It's got nods back to the nineties with a feeling that there's been a modernisation or freshening up of the format, little twists which make this recognisably 'new' It reminds me of the original Eternity's lavender soap vibes (a little) but with Paco Rabanne XS and Tommy Boy (maybe the apple note?) but there's this nubuck suede accord in there too, it's a complex aromatic/fougere opening that's for sure. What I like about this is the 'aftershave' masculinity of it, it's not trying to be anything special and as such I have a tender spot for it...but is it 'good'?? Nah!Not really...I much prefer the sharper, fresher more consistent vibes of Paco's XS. Also the campaign posters feature Jake Gyllenhal who I think is a very talented actor and a comes over in interviews as a seemingly, likeable, humble sort of character...but conversely fashion conscious and doesn't half love to shift units for 'the man'! I'm not saying this shows a lack of integrity I mean good luck to him it's easy work I imagine?

7 years ago

I like this. A fragrance buddy sent a sample of this to me and he was raving about how great it is. I don't quite share that enthusiasm but do you know what? It's decent. Everything I've tried from Yves Rocher is really competent and reasonably priced. This doesn't make my heart sing but it delivers a cozy warming winter fragrance which has a coumarin heavy vibe without being soupy or overly cloying. There's a light vanillic hay after an opening which is pretty complex mixture of the resinous and what can only be described as a designer like citrus accord. Lasts well but doesn't have any shocking, next level "OMG I can't believe this is available at this price point???" moments.

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7 years ago

Pirates' Grand Reserve

Atkinsons

houdini

This is a prime example of the kind of fragrance that wowed me off the bat, but I doubt I'd ever enjoy wearing it. Actually no...it didn't. (wow me that is) I tried it in store ages ago and it never really floated my boat. However upon revisiting I have to say that the opening is spectacular because you get that rum soaked wood effect, a kind of gourmand smokiness too. You can tell the cacao is there from the get go but it grows and grows as the rum dies away making for a very unique smelling fragrance. 'Unique' doesn't always equal good and I find this unwearable as the cacao and vanilla take hold, the bitter element with the sweetness is incredibly well judged I have to say, but it's cloying for a different reason. An unusual cloy. The vanilla facets with booze is just a classic combo and I can see why people who like this will adore it. I just don't myself. It settles to skin quickly but you do get wafts and it does last well but those wafts irritated me, I wish they didn't so much because I want to love this fragrance I really do.

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7 years ago