Latest User Reviews

Well, it's not surprising to see so many negative reviews, I was a little shocked by this and the blue one (forget the name) and just how cookie cutter, men's designer, woody aquatic, synthetic these are. I don't just mean material wise because I suspect the cedar and patchouli etc... in some of the rest of this line are synthetic not too mention 'green' notes. However, they have some jardin feel to them, curious that Nagel is at the helm for both of these I think? I'm not offended or anything, stuff moves on, I just think this is a slightly uninspiring, floral, woody, aquatic, which opens like a drift wood, and 90's aquatic thing doesn't transition that much but the very last skin remnants smell like a salty, jasmine/hedione approximation and some woody synth base bizz. Some folks don't think this represents the heritage of the brand very well, and they may have a point.

7 years ago

Okay so this is nothing short of fantastic! I'm pretty sure this one didn't exist in the old style bottles, or I'd have tried it for sure. Anyway I have now and the opening is sumptuous as hell, a chocolate accord which feels rounded and deeper than a poof of cacao. It's warm, sort of musky, sweet and creamy but not too much so and has a bitterness delivered by the finest dark chocolate. What is apparent is a kind of coffee note too, in fact I'd say the sense of coffee liqueur is there from the get go. Could even be tonka in here too? I've no doubt that patchouli is adding to both the effect of chocolate and a natural smooth earthiness, with a peppery, smoke from what can only be described as an incense accord. Then the base is woody as anything and this 'Oud noir' that is mentioned on the little card I also sprayed and put in my pocket, is responsible for this opulent, leathery, spiced wood smell. I don't know the origin of the 'oud' and frankly I don't care, Sleek suede is a knockout regardless. The best part about this fragrance is that it's not a gourmand in the sense of it existing to emulate food or just be a 'smell' of the sake of it. Sleek suede feels like perfume, rather than an attempt to have a 'foodie' one in the line. I love Indy perfumers don't get me wrong, and much of the time have a bias towards them for the creativity and lack of regard for the so called 'rules'. However, some perfumes have that, 'I trained in Grasse' sort of feel, a kind of untouchable, jus ne sais que. The sort of subtlety that makes you marvel at it. Sleek suede is one of those, sadly it's quite pricey or I'd want a bottle and I'd prioritise it too. I wasn't looking for a gourmand but this one found me in the middle of summer, I love it!

7 years ago

Well funnily enough, I'm on the coattails of Christi, yet again and in fact her's was one of the few reviews I actually allowed myself to read before trying these. I felt it was informative and entertaining but somehow 'spoiler free' at the same time which is a great quality to have. I've got to say I concur completely with the consensus that Miracle of roses is a startlingly unique interpretation of a 'rose based' (or at least has it in the title) perfume and without over egging it too much, restoring faith in the creativity of Indy perfumers, not that it was in danger. What I mean is... this release is made more Poignant because rose is such a difficult material to put your own mark upon.I think Miguel Matos has managed that. I really can't pick out a Ta'if or a Moroccan or a damask rose in here, it's not one to be fathomed easily, just sit back and enjoy. In fact the top notes in this fragrance give it a warm, oriental feel with a gourmand sense that we will come to in a moment. The rose really is nestled between a milky, nutmeg and cinnamon spiced smell and a kind of incense like accord, maybe olibanum? but that's not even giving the foodie associations, more a sense of sexy, warmth. There's a bready note and I do mean bready, not brioche or baked goods sweet, I'm talking more savoury and wheaty, but it's never to the extent of Serge Luten's Jeux de peau a fragrance I've always wanted to like, but just could never wear because frankly...it's horrible. Another thing is that this doesn't feel too opulent or regal to me, or even perfumey with more of a muted feel. (in a really good way) This is fantastic and proabably my pick of the bunch. I haven't worn it properly but I suspect it will be a rewarding experience and Miguel should be proud and really be praised for a fine piece of work in Miracle of Roses. I think I want a bottle?

7 years ago

Sooooo... I was aware of Miguel because between us we've graced more fragrantica pages than a Luckyscent ad!! But never really properly put a face or character to the articles I'd read here, until I saw more of Miguel on Instagram. This coincided with the release of his modest selection of fragrances, so seeing behind the scenes somewhat, him sat at his perfume organ etc... I was highly anticipating what he could some up with. Germaine is the first one I tried and baring in mind that I only dabbed once then spritzed some on my arm a second time and don't tend to like to post a review until I can 'wear' something properly. Having said all that I think the conclusion with Germaine is that I really like it...but with caveats of course. The opening to me at least is a very peppery, smoky, dry vetiver and despite being a base note in my experience can oddly manifest in the opening in this way. I think it gives an unusual impression but not entirely misleading because this fragrance is very woody and grounded in dry, earthiness. Having said that the next phase comes on within a matter of seconds and it's an incredible, blossoming, violet note/accord which is almost visual in it's progression, by that I mean you can figuratively 'see' it coming. Its a little powder purple, button mushroom, popping it's way out of the earthy undergrowth, which by now is even tinged with a kind of leathery aspect. This opens out into a poof of powdery and sweet violet, I mean it's very much the penhaligon's violetta variety, transporting me to my youth and chomping on Parma violet sweets. Then as it reaches a crescendo in the first fifteen minutes or so, beginning to play peekaboo with a much more woody, dry and distinctly 'Indy' perfume flavour of parched, Ionone heavy, floral, woods. This 'Indy' smell I describe is at the heart of this fragrance and it's a mulched, paper sort of stale, woodiness (perhaps the herbal sage?). It reminds me of primary school and that rough, sugar/craft paper that you used to get, or a roughly pulped, jotter or exercise book cover. To be perfectly honest this is my least favourite aspect of this fragrance but are we due for another twist in the tale? Yes!! It comes in the form of the vetiver and leathery note/accord reemerging and giving more heft and making it much more enjoyable for me. I actually think that Germaine is a really good example of light and shade and balancing apposing aroma auras (if you like?) to make something cohesive and something I enjoy. A good start for me with Miguel's stuff but not something I'd rush to add to my collection.

7 years ago

Okay so I was mightily impressed by Golden Neroli, a really fantastic mixture of natural and futuristic, kinda minimal perfumery. Having said that many brands that rely heavily on their natural virtues are too minimalist and reliant on one amazing centrepiece whereas these feel a bit more like true compositions. The Labdanum in the name is a touch misleading but as I wear this I can't help but feeling without it this fragrance wouldn't be as good. I think it's working a catalyst in more of a supporting role, pulling everything together. It's not overt, you do get a bit when initially sprayed I'd say the opening is sweetly resinous but it soon reveals the true players in this scent. Patchouli clearly emerges, cloaked in a kind of metallic tinged, herbal aspect. This could be the clary sage listed? although it doesn't smell like the one I know from other fragrances or the EO material I have. However, after reapplying after several hours (not because it was a bad performer more to get the opening again) I have to say the opening has the herbal masculinity I hadn't picked up of first time, coupled with sweetness, it's actually extremely appealing almost heavenly to me. It actually smells a little reminiscent of golden neroli in that the citrus (which lasts throughout btw) has a bitter grapefruit and petitgrain herbal, green aspect to it. The orange note to me is undeniable too especially in the opening and blends fantastically with patchouli, a combo I have used in a creation of my own. Patchouli here is really lovely, light and lacking that overly chunky, chocolate or rubbery note you can get. This is a bright patch, with just the right amount of earth, I really like it a lot. This is an original composition but just because I like to do this, I'm going to give some examples of perfumes it evokes. Firstly Jo Malone Oud and Bergamot, the freshness the woodiness, the fact that it doesn't smell like oud or bergamot? Secondly, By Killian Straight to heaven, which is much darker and boozier etc... however the patchouli comes across with the same translucency. Thirdly, Lush Lord of Misrule a fragrance that is definitely heavier and spicier, more hippy and full bodied in it's patch dominance but has the citrus/herbal aspect of the Jo Malone O&B running throughout. Loved this. Only two from this line down and they are both superb.

7 years ago

Wow! I thought I loved Venenum kiss for one reason and it turns out I actually love it for another. When I tried it in store I was treated to what I perceived as quite a kitsch, pastiche of a fluffy, pink fragrance echoed by the colour of the perfume itself. It still is this hot pink Cadillac of a scent with an extremely fruity, Jammy rose accord in the opening clearly backed with vanilla, it’s crystal clear and almost too cloying and too much to bare after about 30 minutes. I’m not one for labelling a fragrance too feminine for being sweet and rosy but VK nearly had me beat. However it’s when the Base notes of creamy sweet sandalwood and vanilla and a heart of leathery and opulent saffron take over this fragrance transforms (and not even in smell because all this is there from the get go) with the rose dying back and everything else chiming in, exuding quality. There’s something modern about it that I love, it has an almost pop art attitude, technicolour and unabashed. I really like it, I must say.

7 years ago

Totally confused by this fragrance. It’s either a work of stirring, modern, genius or a unusual and synthetic take on the classical citrus fragrance. The base is just plain aroma chemical woody warmth, I’m not saying I don’t like it, in fact I’m very fond of it this sort of stuff, just seems like an odd and jarring sidestep for this line, (certainly the green and citrus ones anyway) and left me a little confused. I got Basenotes of synthetic Amberone cedar, and even synthetic Oud but definitely a heavy leathery slightly smoky accord. The citrus opening isn’t even that bright or dominant to mask this effect, and Citron Noir comes straight out of the bottle a touch on the harsh side for me. As I mentioned I do kinda like it but not enough to buy or wear again.

7 years ago

I'm a big fan of Ormonde Jayne and I've pretty much tried everything from the brand even the new Elixir's, so it was a bit odd that this didn't stand out first time, but it certainly has on this revisit. Schoen's output for this brand has to be marvelled at clearly a fusion of his modern architecture and more traditional luxury brand naturalism. They all have a neutrality and balance without being bland, sort of inscrutable but not lacking definition. Nawab of Oudh is no exception in fact it's pretty special stuff, The opening is airy, cool and aldehydic and the feel Geza manages to capture is OJ to a T and although doesn't smell like it has the same vibe as Montabaco. The rose note is so delicate just suspended and floating through the middle of the composition. Because this has the same synthetic feel as many Ormonde Jayne's I would say there's real oud, It's not overt though like the Cambodian oud added to Ta'if Elixir but this is more the slightly rubbery, woody variety. Some warm in this just a heavenly drydown caps off a stunning fragrance. This is not the most hardcore or 'Oud' fragrances so if you're after that look elsewhere.

7 years ago

These NOT Perfumes have an interesting concept and exploitation of a 'loophole' (as Joanna Venables calls it) is what drew me in really. The whole Nordic/pagan/celtic style appeals to me, they are almost a bit black metal or something? (NOT that I'm a fan of that) Right down to the constant double negatives and the Borat inflected marketing statements which I found as tedious as the fragrances...Nahhhht!!! (tee hee) Vaan is a murky, dirty vanilla fragrance which doesn't seem for a second like it's a NOT a deliberate stylistic choice, but perhaps I've giving too much credit? This is actually quite, animal quite intimate but chaotic...if it was a colour it would be dark brorange a deep shade of yurquoise. Vaan has the feeling of something that has been left to ferment or hung to age like some artisan meat or cheese? Or more aptly Oud or Ambergris. In fact I wouldn't be surprised if Ambergris featured in here, it does have animal facets and that grounded feeling you get from perfume anchored with treasured whale vomit/turd. So the opening is actually quite resinous, darker resins I'd say myrrh, labdanum, opoponax, tolu etc... but it's never all about those, the most prominent and growing note is one of cocao. This merges into the general warm naturalist feel of the purfume, and smells maybe a touch like patchouli but still warmly, vanillic, kinda furry but never over sweet. The drydown strips back the chocolate and becomes that little bit more resinous again. This was a nice experience, I don't if having prior knowledge of the origins of the brand gives this impression but something about Vaan is incredibly Scandinavian, almost viking like and this fragrance is a big pussycat really. It has spooky forest vibes all over it though. Now I'm not sure but there seems to be a large constituent of naturals in these, you can just tell. The statement about the NOT being perfume because they clearly aren't complying with any guidelines is slightly lost on me and I think it's because I just associate banned stuff oakmoss (wrongly coz there's loads of restricted materials) but because there's not even one that has super predominant oakmoss or animal notes I just feel a bit disappointed. That's with the line in general...Vaan is one of my favourites but they are all worth sniffing out. The initial strength and potency does die back very quickly but the drydowns are often long, evolutionary affairs. NOT has my vote.

7 years ago

Sorry not a fan. My history with the Ideal line was bewilderment at the first one, despite understanding the older Guerlain's it was nodding to. Then elation at the later ones the edp and Parfum (I think they are called?) As they really doubled down on the coumarin/tonka oriental gourmand elements making fragrances that weren't just a sort of modern mess, but rather a clearly recognised vision....in my humble opinion of course. However, there was another flanker in the line which took the acceptable face of Ideal and made it even more 'fresh' and mass appealing in the cologne version...cue alarm bells in my head. To my surprise this one really worked, the bitter, sharp grapefruit top combined with that milky almond base just worked incredibly well, finally I started to 'get' the line and enjoyed the others much more as a result. So after that brief history of my thoughts on Guerlain Ideal comes Ideal Cool and frankly it's a step too far for me. I must say the coolness is certainly evoked in the smell, giving a superbly airy, cool effect. I think people who like this will really like it because it's undoubtedly created with Guerlain's usual carefully consideration. I just don't like the combination of almond, tonka bean and smooth woodiness with aquatic and minty notes. I get the balance, mint kinda works with vetiver and in turn with the rest of the composition you can pick out aspects that chime well in both contexts, neroli for example. I just don't like it personally and I believe this is the replacement for Ideal Cologne which is little sad but I suppose things have to move on. I will have to try it again as nothing about my feeling on this line would surprise me, I might end up reverting my position, stranger things have happened. for now it's a No though.

7 years ago

Nobody? Not one person has reviewed this yet and that just about sums up this brand and this scent for me. Oh there's nothing wrong with the smell of it. I fell head over heels for this fragrance it's superb, The problem is that these are victims of absurd packaging and marketing. The perfumers they have on board are very competent and some of the ideas are really great, they all feel a little safe or not very artisan or indy, more like designer crowd pleasers (not true of ALL of course) and that's very much what Vibrant scent is. Let's start with the name...I mean come on? it's a bit lack lustre isn't it? But it's a scent and it's vibrant so no one could accuse them of false advertising and I guess I'm the asshole here? The opening is a pink pepper and smoothed out nutmeg/cardamom to my nose and it's heavenly I mean really special stuff, but wearable and accessible. There's generally a synthetic feel to Vibrant scent I'd say, but in a good way. If this was a designer fragrance even a higher priced but still 'designer' Tom Ford I'd march to the counter with it but it's not. Some odd brand that look like Montale bottles if they were cast in a Marvel franchise (Quoting myself from previous reviews again....I'm such a dick!) and this is partly what I think alienates me. Still maybe this will be marked down one day and I'll be able to pick it up cheap online, this brand has that feeling it won't be long before that happens. The base is a kind of cuddly cosy sandlewood creamy orris and casherean which I adore and I think that's what gives the nutmegish vibes in the opening. I'm actually in love with this fragrance but it's too exensive or I would've bough it, also performance isn't exactly brilliant but I can forgive it because wearing it was a very pleasurable experience. Reminds me of the style of 90's/2000's designer men's stuff like By D&G, Gucci Envy and Rush. All sadly discontinued. I want to like the brand and I'm really not one to complain all that much about money, I mean if you love it you can find the money but with so many other things vying for my affections this does get bumped down the list. Please try it though because if you like stuff I like this is a peach of a fragrance.

7 years ago

It's taken me a while to finally sample this one and surprising too because although I don't own the original Declaration I have great affection for it's themes and it's place in men's designer perfumery. So to say this mirrors the original is completely accurate, in that it's a spicy affair with a fresh opening but that's where the comparison's end for one simple reason...genre. They are essentially the same fragrance done in different genre's. The original is a fresh, citrus Eau de Cologne type fragrance with a juniper sharpness and quinine feeling of a freshly poured G'n' T. In fact this is some kind of sorcery whereby botanicals with cumin/cardamom are infused into the spirit, giving this thorough yet at the same time, airy effect. This parfum version is not just a cranked concentration but an oriental re imagining, abandoning the fresh feel of the original declaration for what I would consider a much more complimentary and expected resinous base. This is beautiful with the cumin spice, giving a sort of smooth, suede leather effect, some cleaner aspects because It can't go too avant garde after all. I need to test it again properly but I thought it was fantastic, faithful to the original Declaration but way more up my street in terms of it's resinous quality. I want a bottle simple.

7 years ago

Okay so this is my second Hiram Green review having sampled most of the line now and my thoughts are mixed. Not just because of taste or my preferences, but in as objective a sense as I can be. My opinion now that I've dabbled myself in blending perfume (in a cackhanded manner but still) is that there's somewhat of an over reliance on fantastic featured materials and not quite enough innovation for me. I'm also aware how naive this comment is, knowing just how hard it is to create a base that will hold or top notes that will pop through, also why not showcase amazing things??? Like tuberose/ jasmine concretes or honey or Bulgarian rose absolute?? They are wonderful things! So my critique is minimal in light of these facts because the quality is clearly there and plain for all to see, but I like a perfume to be slightly more layered whether in a classical sense or a more challenging one. The main note/accord having many facets is not quite the same. So that being said Hyde was one that I could smell in the bag of samples I got (as it had leaked slightly) and infected he others with a MASSIVE birch tar smoke that is almost visible from space. When applied, and though it is strong sure, it actually becomes a bit of a pussycat on me. The smokiness it's self is raw but has a hay like, cade quality with a massively malty undertone and a spicy aspect which doesn't quite go into that BBQ'd meat smell nor does it go thin & harsher like the direct smoke from a garden fire. This is hefty and rounded but mellows down into a cozy, warm skin smoke and hyper woody effect. The malt in this fragrance is the key underpinning birch tar and when it's appreciated from a distance(not literally), is actually really good and far more wearable to me than many other smoky concoctions. The key difference being many smoky Indy/niche fragrances kinda go for shock and awe and that's exactly what I I had this one pegged as. Like a macho bro off, who can eat the hottest chilli or whatever?? What brand can go the smokiest and most dark. Well instead of starting out massive and progressively just smouldering away (imagery intended) actually starting to grate on your nerves after a short time and persisting for hours. Hyde actually improves over the course of wearing, after arguably one of the more potent openings in this genre it becomes quite subdued and a very pleasant experience. Nothing can touch the colossal Slowdive though and I'm wearing it today just magic. Hyde is good for those who like a malty fragrance as well as a smoky one and that's just something to bear in mind.

7 years ago

I get why there’s notes of tropical fruits listed here but the execution just isn’t quite bold enough. Frankly I’d have embraced a more juicy guava note, or even an approximation of melon but really it’s just a slightly dull Lilly of the valley, which has now dried down to a really fluffy, fruit tinged frangipani with a bit of vanilla nuance to it. Pleasant but too feminine for me and with no real imagination. Although I could be wrong and Sweet, exotic white floral fans may find this a masterpiece, such is the distance from my frame of reference, I really don’t feel qualified to comment.

7 years ago

This fragrance came highly recommended by a fragrance pal on IG and she wasn’t wrong, it’s a lovely smelling thing and pretty unique from my perspective. The best thing about it is that there’s barely any neroli to be found in this and golden hardly represents the aroma for me is more of a pastel pink hue. This is largely down to a fruity top notes which almost turn slightly figgy and a creamy sweetness of vanilla and sandalwood. It has a childlike, confectionary aura but never cheap, this thing is classy as hell and never overly sweet. As I said it’s a revelation to me as I’d never heard of the brand and was subverted somewhat by the neroli in the name. I need to wear it again to make my mind up about performance but this was a standout and memorable experience, Golden Neroli is a hit with me.

7 years ago

Wowie!!!!!! I love the fact that my pal Christi (below) and I are penning a review at a similar time, and prepare for the echo because I absolute ADORED this fragrance. Truly blown away by an innovative and genuinely unique fragrance from Hiram Green, Slowdive is a monumental tone poem of beauty, and this coming from someone with a well documented dislike of beewax. It stems back to childhood for me and buying honey from a local family who kept bee's. Their entire house smelled of sickly sweet honey, super waxy florals, beeswax candles and royal jelly, I swear the air was a yellowy amber colour. I often used to think... how do you live in this? I'm sure it was more impactful to newcomers and you likely got used to living in that environment, coupled with the fact they obviously loved it, being beekeepers and all! Anyway....back to the matter in hand....Slowdive is nothing like that though. It has the sweetness of honey but very little of the raw, heaviness, and hay like quality. The balance struck up here is supreme and I don't find it overly sweet or cloying at all. Although this is a rare occasion where I'm writing a review without having worn it properly such was my keenness to comment on this sublime perfume. This is what I want in my heart of hearts for a beehive to smell like. Those satisfying hexagonal combs dripping with amber nectar. You can smell the faintly fruity essence and blossom at the back of this fragrance giving the effect of a honey derived from many sources. Syrupy resins and that tobacco ekement combine perfectly to cap off what is a fragrance of supreme beauty and something I welcomed like a summer breeze blowing away some of the dross I've sampled recently. Exemplary stuff and Hiram is going to have to do some sort of alchemy to produce one I like more than this. Firmly on my want list. LOVE!

7 years ago

Knew nothing of this brand or the notes of this fragrance. Sprayed it on this morning and what a treat. The masculine greenery hits with a peppery dark edge. This settles to a lightly smoked vetiver note and this is the only clearly defined note I could get and it is KO gorgeous to be fair. I said to myself.... Castana definitely has vetiver (this usually means I check the notes and it's not listed) and hoorah there it is. However, as it settles it almost completely mutates and the heart/base take over and curiously does really smell of vetiver anymore, but a men's designer fragrance....I'm gonna say from the 90's and I wracked my brains thinking of what ot was, driving along in my car and all of a sudden ah ha!!! It dries down to something in the ballpark of Versace Dreamer of all things! This is a hasty review and I will need to sample again but It smells like dreamer, shades of Le Male and maybe even reflection man? So I'd even say there's a lightly floral tobacco and even touches of vanilla scented barbershop, fougere. I always think dreamer has a hazy, chemical smell, a bit stale and unsettling but fantastic for it. This is similar. I enjoyed it. 01/03/22 Update: I can't help but read back this review and think it might, just might, be a touch unhelpful/misleading. I really stick to what I said but I can't believe I downplayed (straight up didn't mention!!!) the nutty aspect of this perfume, because it is very nutty, like a beautiful, warm, chestnut. Vetiver (and certainly sandalwood) can also have this nutty quality, folks will be familiar with Haitian and Java vetivers but I have a material from Brazil which is obviously not as popular or well known but is very characteristically nutty. I think what I was driving at was that the base of this perfume is musky and soft, the top notes are interesting, a kind of hybridized Gourmand/fougere of sorts and I think the perfumer has struck a perfect tone here of innovation and calming, reassuring, perfuminess and chic, style, making Cloon Keen the kind of Chanel or Celine of the Emerald Isle. I think it's superb in both it's subtley and creativity and no wonder Luca Turin bummed it into next week! (He does get things right occasionally, the senile old git) The creamy warm hay/coumarin character and vetiver earth to it, does make me think it's something people who enjoy Hermes Vetiver Tonka would really like. Castana is basically Vetiver Tonka but for people with more personality.

7 years ago

Insolence Eau de Parfum

I remember seeing this bottle but it's not an immediately accessible design for a man to pick up & try, well not this man anyway, but I have sampled the bee bottle now. I'm assuming this one has been discontinued in this format? Anyway, This is a violet dominant fragrance as the colour of the perfume would suggest and it's very vibrant, yet restrained and actually fresh. This clearly resembles violet fragrances I like but I was struck by how different it is too. The opening is very fresh but no sharpness of citrus just that, mellowing into 'realistic' Iris/violet and not one that I found particularly powdery if I'm honest, Insolence is certainly no Violetta by Penhaligon's. Funnily enough I've tried another modern violet/iris this week and yet again I've been surprised at just how changeable they can be. A lovely perfume but a bit reserved for my taste.

Gucci Guilty Cologne Pour Homme

7 years ago

Gucci

Allow me to start with the positives here this is not just a cookie cutter, eau de cologne freshie. Nor is it the ultimately bland aroma chemical mess of a eros or Invictus, some small merciful praise can be bestowed upon Gucci Guilty Cologne for this fact. Gucci had really turned a corner injecting life into this Guilty line with the divisive release Guilty Absolute (Men's one) which people either found to be a blissfully animalic leather or an inept, antiseptic, nightmare. Stranger still that it had come from the nose of Alberto Morillas, and this one does too, with the use of a note/accord seldom found in men's designer perfumes and that's Heliotrope. All this sets us up for an interesting fragrance and cologne is not without that merit let's just let it have this credit, before I rip it to shreds! So the opening is actually very fresh, truly aquatic, fresh a bit salty but with a steady decent into more floral territory. This is that violet leaf, dry ionones sort of tinge but if this was a violet fragrance I expect I would like it. I sampled this without prior knowledge of the notes and I KNEW there was heliotrope in here....I couldn't place the name and kept saying Angelica no...mimosa, no....artemisia no....what is it?? I knew what I meant and seeing it here just validates how prominent it is in this fragrance. Three stages are... unusual fresh, seaside floral opening, into a heart that is almost a scrubber, it's that bad. Let me just say that this could be a taste thing on my part but I found it really sour and unpleasant combination. Then when nearly dead and settled right the way down comes a woody, synthetic aroma chemical heaven of timbersilk, clearwood, synth ambers? and like that.....all is well. Too little, too late and overall I have to say I plain dislike this fragrance and would never wear it, categorising it as a stinker. Just let me highlight once again that this was not a failure for any of the reasons I thought it might be, and I respect that Gucci and Morillas have tried somewhat to follow suit from the barnstorming Absolute, with something different. It fails because perfume like this should be at the least pleasant for all it's challenges and this wasn't to me. Sorry it just wasn't.

Les Absolus d'Orient Musc Noble

7 years ago

Wow! This has a bright, aldehydic, musky opening as the name might suggests couple with the growing rose note it's even slightly metallic, certainly clean and with the tinniest hint of geranium. It's vaguely chypre-esque and does have a nod to the Encens one (either new or old) in style. It's very good just not my bag...but I would try it again and give a proper wear but I doubt my feelings would change all that much.

Les Absolus d'Orient Encens Mythique

7 years ago

This is another bit of magic. I could never afford Encens Mythique d'Orient and despite my flacon preference I have to say this reboot works out about £1 per ml, that is an absolute bargain for a masterpiece chypre like this. I don't have the capacity to portray the poetry of this fragrance. I'd say I prefer Bois Mysterieux if I had to pick simply because that is more oriental and ergo more my style but this is on an equal par creatively and affectionately recreating their forebears (if the formulas are indeed any different?) Ambergris is the stuff of magic in perfume and it rides underneath everything here unpinning and giving a slightly musky skank, which is as addictive to keep sniffing as the raw stuff. I'm amazed at the bright aldehydes in here and just how long they last in to heart and base of the fragrance. Lightly floral, brightly resinous a little touch of damp earth and moss and powder, all the trappings of a classic. Absolutely loved it, opened stong, lasted for ages just a supreme fragrance. Bravo Guerlain.

Les Absolus d'Orient Bois Mystérieux

7 years ago

One of my greatest perfumed regrets is not buying Songe d'un bois D'Ete, the glorious smelling Guerlain presented in a beautiful flacon. It's not a unicorn by any means and still widely available online but it's a bit pricey I thought. Price shouldn't be a factor when it smells this good...Fantastic then that Bois Mysterieux is very similar smelling, I think you get more volume and the price is more reasonable...Although I haven't checked my Oud Essencial was about £120 for 125ml I recall? So if it's around that point it's a bargain! The opening is a stunning oriental incense that instantly transports you to the far east, it's magical. Has nuance of cumin and caraway, anise and licorice, powerful but with a lightness of touch, elevating it to the very highest level. The myrrh is sweet, but has some bite, the body of the scent is creating a smooth leathery, woodsy effect and hint of warm animal musk. Describing notes in this fragrance is a little reductive because of the expert balance and transition of accords into one cohesive master work. This fragrance is an absolute delight. What a treat it is and has to be top priority on my purchases list.

7 years ago

So clearly I forgot to post a review of this one but not because I favoured Some of the others I have penned reviews for. Strength I’d say was my third favourite from the line, and don’t be mistaken for thinking it’s dead bang mediocre in the middle because the two above it really were excellent. So comparisons to Tobacco Vanille are obvious as the big glowing neon reference point for sweetly honied, dried fruit, tobacco fragrances...and that’s what this is. I have to state for the record that there’s no way you’d ever mistake them for one another and that is to Zegna’s credit. I actually favour this over TV smell wise it’s somehow more easy going, still warm yet lighter, but performance, ballsoutness (yes!) and even price are all in Tom Ford’s favourite rendering stuff like this and Phaedon’s Tabac Rouge a touch redundant. Certain Genres I can’t write off in this way, ‘fresh vetivers’ for example I don’t just think oh I’ve got XYZ and that’s the pinnacle, I don’t need anymore. However some genres I do and that’s just my bad. If this was cheaper then for sure I’d give it more thought. I actually find the honey in this to be sublime, the Tobacco adds just enough, bitter, Woodsy qualities, the smoothness of the who affair is just lovely.

7 years ago

Decent. Quite linear and not really possessing the exoticism I expect from Ylang Ylang but very nice all the same and the floral opening masks just how much vanilla there is in the base! Jeez the musky/vanilla drydown is long lived. I liked it and it’s not even my scene.