I quite like the design of this simple, pastel oblong and it's rare that I say this but I was attracted to try it by the bottle. The good points and bad points about Bloom are the same...hear me out. This is not a power Tuberose/Jasmine fragrance and that is both a saving grace and a downfall depending on how you see it. I'd say I dislike Tuberose but I can appreciate some facets of it and when it's high quality I kinda marvel at it's pungent power but wonder how anyone could ever wear it? Then there's the cheap variety which smell awful...I'd say Bloom is somewhere in between. I know the name is pretty self explanatory but I expected some sort of base other than loads of flowers, to the point where it's quite indistinct and a little lacking in clarity and focus. I'm not a massive florals fan and I'm a man so this is not aimed at me anyway but I found nothing about the composition new or exciting.
I was very shocked by how good the men's version of this was, a herbal, leathery brew of real power and originality something which I would've never associated with the limp and frankly awful Guilty line before it's release. So I was expecting great things from the female version and to a greater extent I got them. Guilty absloute pour femme is arguably more tailored to my personal tastes than the men's one, a fruity, balasmic deeply woody fragrance with a heart of jammy rose. The opening reminds me slightly of a plum japonais and a bit like Cdg floriental as it becomes warm and resinous, then there's a patchouli and rose heart that is sweet but earthy, a little noir de noir ish, only sweeter and still with those berry notes chiming throughout. The drydown is more roses and wood, very subtle, low lying and calm, still tiny hints of the jammy fruit in there. It lasted very well but wasn't strong by any stretch of the imagination. I'd give it a huge thumbs up and might well have added to my collection right away, especially for the beautifully coloured flacon...but for one thing. The price. Now I'm someone who has splashed on overly expensive perfume before now but I found £95 for a 90ml a little rich even for my blood. Gucci and other designers must feel they can push the price tag if they are offering this kind of 'niche quality' eau de parfum. Maybe they have a point but it put me off. I can't remember what I paid for the men's version, maybe it was a comparable sum...I can't remember but that one compelled me instantly this will is obviously not as persuasive. Great to see Gucci with two awesome releases on the bounce though.
Olfactive studios Close up. Now! Let's just take into account that I had preconceived ideas and judgements on this fragrance before I'd even tried it and I'm not too proud to say when I'm wrong as equally as I like to gloat and highlight the fact when my predictions are accurate...this one falls more into the latter category. The main thing I notice about Olfactive Studios fragrances is that they try to be innovative and in this industry I have to give them credit for that. The briefs and concepts the perfumers/house come up with never fail to intrigue but unfortunately they never quite deliver a long lasting and enjoyable fragrance throughout. Superb and unique openings...disappointing performance/drydown/overall experience. One day I'm sure they will crack this and we will have a real winner on our hands. God loves a trier and they are always worth a sniff. The opening is intoxicating like a silky, coffee infused breeze of milky, musky woods. Then there's that hint of the honied Tobacco and a pinch of cherry, cough drop warmness and excitement. The mid section of this fragrance is basically warm and cozy, resinous benzoin and that slight coffee/vanilla vibe of tonka bean, tempered with the powdery chocolate cacao and earth of patchouli. Its strangely masculine leaning but also reminds me quite a deal of something a more mature lady might wear. The finish and dry down are nice, lots more honey and that spiced feel, which smells almost identical to Parfum de Marly Oajan a fragrance I'm extremely fond of. The main difference is there's less of that hot, cinnimal edge in this but the transformation from smelling a bit similar in the opening and first hour to almost exactly the same is pretty miraculous. Despite this, I think these fragrances are different enough to both have merit and it's still worth owning both, if you wanted to. So in the deep dry down and Close up changes again, becoming less like Oajan and much more resinous and oozing a kind of ancient dustiness. I wouldn't say this is strong but it projected quite well for the first couple of hours, then becoming a low lying skin scent but very persistent and I noticed it stained my skin very slightly. My conclusion is that Close up is one of the best releases from OS to date. A very enjoyable fragrance indeed and the order of how the notes come through is interesting. It's a thumbs up from me. Update: Okay so I penned this review nearly 12 months ago and it’s been sitting on my phone unposted so I feel the need to make some amendments. My general thoughts are the same but upon wearing again I get a very animal, pissy note in the opening which is extremely off putting. It’s unusual and I’m not just saying this for melodrama or comic effect but I thought for a moment....”has my cat had a piss in here? “ It’s very prominent and why the hell I didn’t notice it the first time I don’t know? Even if you just put the spray nozzle to your nose it’s obvious, however as the fragrance settles it becomes that cherry, Tobacco, honey thing I mentioned in the main body of the review. I still like it, when the urine subsides. That’s not really a sentence I ever imagined writing but there you go.
I'm keeping this brief because I can't believe the amount of times I've gone to write a review for this and the original and either half written it lost it or whatever I think someone somewhere doesn't want me to review this perfume. So much was subsequently said in forums and online that my thoughts on the original would've been insignificant by the time I'd actually managed to pen a review so I didn't bother. The main things were that I enjoyed the minimal ambroxan construction and actually like the mixture of a citrus note a kind of mossy masculine note and a clean, warm base. It's simple but I also kinda understand why people don't like it, not least the fact that I've been smelling it everywhere for the past couple of years. This parfum version is much the same as the other recent parfum releases from Dior like Fahrenheit and Homme, it's got a slightly different opening (unfortunately I don't get the star anise promised here) and an more heavy feel for a bit anyway. Then it effectively just dries down to the same scent as the original. If you are expecting a huge difference, prepare to be disappointed. I bought this because I quite fancied the original and took the opportunity to get this now it's been released. Even the silage and longevity are the same....MASSIVE. So no difference there. Not in a good quality way but rather a necessity to make the general guy choke out the club with it on a Friday night. I like it, I like ambroxan...sorry. I think this is masculine and I never got it at first but now I get there's a hint of Aventus about it but only at a distance...which is weird.
I'm not a big patchouli guy or at least I never used to be and especially when it's delivered in such a linear way. However, over the past few years I've started to really dig a soily patch and found the opening of this scent to be incredibly bracing. It's a mixture of a big, boozy, smoky incense and I even get a sort of bitter orange in the very beginning then the patchouli starts growing and growing to an earthy crescendo. There's a sharp, burning, herbal, minty, menthol quality to it as well. I can't help thinking about the name of this one and patchouli wasn't always something I necessarily associated with masculine perfumery but I suppose it really is... that dirty kind of oily quality reminds me of working on cars or something? (PC Police: I'm not saying women don't work on cars.) Anyway the huge let down with this fragrance is that it goes on MASSIVE and then is very poor on longevity thereafter...I got a few hours out of it. I'm intrigued by the geranium version though. UPDATE: Let me just readdress this and add a caveat to my review because upon wearing it for a second time today, I'm pretty taken with this fragrance. The base is actually much more sensual and deep than I expected, and rooted in a dry, sandpaper rough, amber accord but with facets of labdanum and moments of sharpness & brightness in there. I really like it and it appears to be lasting much better on me this time as I went in a bit hard on it for having poor longevity, I just think it dies to a skin scent quicker than expected but remains for hours....and what a skin scent....the drydown is lovely. I judged it a little quickly but I'm still hoping the geranium one will deliver more. UPDATE 2: 27/04/21 I'm on a big Malle kick at the minute, revisiting and renewing my opinions on this brilliant line. Monsieur is a big part of that because I know it's great, I know it is, and looking back on my review here I've little to add. It's a case of, do I find it's presence (or lack thereof) worth the money?, and I'm no Longevity queen, I'll wear a fleeting eau de cologne, I will but there's probably other Malle's I need first. Just to reiterate this is an amazing take on a modern, masculine patchouli, the intensity and darkness yet clarity of the opening is really something to behold, but while French Lover and Geranium pour monsieur hold your attention and evolve all the while from exciting opening to glorious base, this one kinda fizzles out a bit, which is a shame.
I'm revisiting these classic Guerlain fragrances because they are excellent and I feel I need to review them as they have more historic significance than many perfumes out there. It's hard not to love this, simplicity and complexity in a bottle, the bright, invigorating citrus and mint, a hint of white florals, green notes and lavender then the wholeness but gentile application of a musky oakmoss it's a class act. I don't know who compared it to Ninfeo mio a great scent and similar I suppose in the top notes but the base is very different. For an EDT in the cologne style and even in the latest formulation, I found it lasted better than Imperial and Coq for example. This is a brilliant and refreshing scent.
I'd say I get more guava and mango in the opening than pineapple and that is a massive positive...I love a tropical, fruity perfumes and I was waiting for Xerjoff to give me the best I'd ever had, transporting me to a paradise...but Cruz del sur II doesn't quite pull it off. I'm not sure what it is? The quality is undoubtedly there but no 'shade' could be the issue here, this beach needs a palm tree. To say it smells like a glade home fragrance is a little unfair, Cruz del sur II does have a great complex opening. The milky, vanilla base is interesting and does feel like a positive 'milk' note, but equally comes off as coconut against those tropical fruits. After they die it's a very feminine, soft and one dimensional, creamy powder of a fragrance with a lot of pastel, exotic floral notes coming through. It's not for me.
I was looking forward to trying Cruz del sur I & II but neither have really met my expectations. This one opens very strangely indeed and has a signature Xerjoff opulence about it, I don't find the mixture of an animalic, but modern IBQ driven, leather accord, boozy fruits and smoky resins appealing at first but as this thing progresses it gets much nicer. After about five hours it's now a boozy, rum and minced fruit cake of loveliness, with hints of the animal leather and sharp labdanum and myrrh but much tamer and easier to handle now. Rewind to the opening and it was knocking me sick with it's spiced diesel fumes and stinky animal musk but with all the nice things I've mentioned too, all at the same time.... Cruz del sur I is an insane, statement fragrance. It's no joke and reminds me of loads of different fragrances non of which I can recall right now due to the sensory overload I'm experiencing. Full of intrigue this one, great performance and if you can wait out the initial harshness, a blissful drydown. When I say it reminds me of other fragrances, it totally does, but has so many phases and notes that it is unique in a sense as well, and who doesn't like a fragrance that is multifaceted even if you probably wouldn't wear it and definitely couldn't afford it.
I'll just start by saying that I'm a massive fan of this house, I respect the refined range, the fact that a small outfit got an exclusive with Selfridges and has since branched out (I think?) and just generally love the perfumes Noble Incense and White Leather are brilliant. Even if they were all just tried and tested formulas and rehashings, I'd still like them because the quality is undeniable. Bella Bellisima's range isn't that though, they are memorable and different scents, I think Vetiver Spice is the best Vetiver I've ever smelled, and no one seems to be aware of it. Anyway....against that backdrop of my obvious bias I have to say that Precious Amber is equally brilliant as well. However, I would add there's nothing very new in here but it can be forgiven just for being so damn lovely. I did try it in store when this lie was first introduced and thought it was a hugely sweet resinous rose perfume and it turns out I still think that, but I had to get a recent sample to make sure. The opening isn't so lovely a very chemical, burning, harsh representation of resin and the jammiest, sweetest rose note which truly has a fruity, sugary nature to it. However, as it dies back becomes a very rich amber rose which constantly changes throughout, lightly spiced and definitely on the feminine side. My favourite part is when it has completely dried down to almost nothing, a subtle skin scent of the most lovely variety...I adore it at this stage. If you're a big rose fan this would worth checking out, It's full of amber but not conventional in that sense so amber fans might look elsewhere. Despite Precious Amber's initial potency it's not that much of beast and lasted very well but disappeared completely after 8 hours, still a respectable innings. Undeniable quality yet again from Bella Bellisima.
I haven't even looked at the price but if you have to be concerned about such things....you can't afford it, and I can't afford it. I usually wait until I've worn a fragrance a couple of times or at least until the latter stages before even contemplating a review but this one had me excited. I let out an audible, semi orgasmic sigh of absolute satisfaction when I first sprayed this. Roja Dove's London is supreme, the reason for this is clear right from the start...possibly my favourite ingredient...Labdanum. London screams labdanum, the opening is sharp, making your nose tingle and the intense resinous nature is immediately apparent. The opening is beautiful and combines a host of other notes clove, cardamom saffron but frankly they are short lived and the life of this fragrance is in the incense. It's a heady mixture which changes all the while from effervescent olibanum/galbanum to darker chunkier more spiced tones of tolu balsam and then the dry, dusty benzoin. I think that's just the wonderful nature of labdanum, it's kinda all those things at the same time. The base is soft deep deep woods I think there's even a hint of vanilla in there just to round out what is an excellent fragrance. The performance was good as expected and opening aside, the transitions even within an accord of resins just speak to how complex they are in their own right. I loved Roja Dove's London and if money was no object I'd buy it tomorrow.
Finally received this in the post after being intrigued for some time and yes at first sniff it does resemble NdN but that's not quite the whole story. Tom Ford's Noir de Noir was a scent that was never a big deal to me and I genuinely couldn't see what the fuss was all about at first...It was just a very nice rose based perfume. However, after several wears over the years and a mini I occasionally dip into, I grew to understand that it was a pretty special fragrance, not too rosey but enjoyable and uplifting even. So the prospect of a cheaper alternative became very appealing and Club de Nuit Intense smells a hell of a lot like it. Crucial difference being after it settles the patchouli is more prominent, more quickly. Some would argue that's not much of a difference but try them side by side and you will notice what I mean. Other than that the opening is pretty much Identical, I'd say NdN seems a little jammier and sweeter in general but it really is slitting hairs. Also the choclately element a little cacao puff in both is present but as I mentioned the CdNI seems to be a little earthier patch. They both evoke Turkish delight and velvety, purple evening wear. I'm really glad I got this, because although I have rose fragrances I've nothing quite like this. Now I've never found NdN to be a big performer and this seems to sit low in exactly the same way, which I'm happy with to be honest because there's nothing worse than being choked out by your own rose perfume. A brilliant blind buy thanks to the reliable folks in the fragrance community bigging this one up now for some time.
When I read the notes for this I was thinking what will an Arabic take on a fruity scent be? It's pretty much what I expected in some respects but I'm also glad there's not a hint of rose or oud or the usual stuff that despite not being listed, can loom large. The opening is a turbo charged explosion of fruits, mainly plum, dark berries and blackcurrant but some exotic smell too, perhaps coming from the ylang ylang and jasmine. Layali is a upbeat and uplifting scent which instantly reminded me of my childhood and specifically a leisure centre where I used to do martial arts. It wasn't the sweat, rubber mats and chlorine though but maybe some sweets I had in the foyer or the slush puppy machines and canteen area...I don't actually know? but it's always fascinating when fragrance can transport you back to a time you'd buried deep in your subconscious. Anyway...the thing which makes this fragrance is the olfactory nosedive it takes as it settles down, very clever and totally needed to counteract the heady nature of the oriental flowers and strong fruity notes. The element I'm talking about is cumin or a curry spice note which just pokes it's head out, deep into the composition and frankly without it this scent would be nice but nothing to get excited about. It's the same way a fecal or animal note adds to a perfume just giving some shade to all that brightness. Hugely strong to begin with but I actually found it not too strong in the end and performance was good. Layali put me slightly in mind of Enchanted forest and Byredo Pulp due to the blackcurrant and plum notes respectively. Very good stuff though and a excellent flacon, an interesting blind buy that I thankfully don't regret because to me it's not a perfume taking itself too seriously. Layali is a bit of fun.
So many reviews to do, so little time. It's tragic that I've only just gotten around to pen my thoughts about this stuff. I don't know whether I'm just having a Eau de cologne renaissance but I really am in love with this kind of fragrance at the moment and it's not even the weather for it. Maybe that's the beauty of this sort of classic perfume...it's versatile and timeless. In any case my respect for Guerlain couldn't be higher and this really is a gem, despite the obvious comparisons with a million other similar fragrances. The opening is like a cool breeze of luscious, bright citruses and lemon verbena which often gives a little fizz to proceedings and although in broad terms, not a long lived perfume, the citrus does last throughout. This might be due to how Cologne Imperiale, superbly transitions into white florals but they are very light and delicate. The drydown has a hint of creaminess like a woody vanilla but so subtle and barely registering as such. It's brilliant! I really like it. This type of perfume can be quite boring but this has something about it an air of class and robust heritage. I have tried it through the years and this latest formula doesn't seem to have lost anything. I didn't expect decent performance and as such was pleasantly surprised when the longevity was okay, low lying but perfectly acceptable.
I’m disappointed with myself for not posting my review of this scent when it came out because I really liked it then and nothing has changed really. The citrus opening is lovely and with the edition of a positive and superb lemongrass note, is kinda herbal and zingy. Then it does become this thing we imagine old shave products to be like when they possibly were much harsher and full on as other reviews have mentioned. I get a classic cologne type mix but also a manly, herb Fougere, I’ve no doubt lavender is playing a part but it’s not pronounced to me. What I do think is I’m there is a vetiver like, earthy clean note, sometimes causing Bayolea to lean toward a kinda lemongrass Terred’Hermes. This could also be due to a zest of the tangerine note in here, especially in the opening. The drydown is lovely, clean, clear, concise...(maybe another C word I can’t think of right now?) and absolutely satisfying. I don’t think it’s groundbreaking, but Bayolea gets a thumbs up because performance was agreeable at 6+ hours so one of these days I might just get a bottle.
Whenever I see the word Bourbon I automatically think whiskey rather than vanilla, strange really as I’m clearly a fragrance fan but I’m obviously more of a whiskey fan so there you go. Well, who knew I would’ve been eerily accurate in that assumption, the opening is boozy and not in a good way, the base alcohol in this seems to take an age to disperse, which can happen with some (even the best) vanillas because they are so subtle and take time to develop. Then you get the other type which are just poorly executed and sadly that’s what E&J Nirvana Bourbon is, a meek, woody perfume which is an oak note, again subtlety conveyed and a vague booziness which is quite nice and then barely a flicker of the main player vanilla. It’s a shame because I can tell there the basis of a good perfume in here but it’s so patheticly mild it comes over like an anosmic, single woody molecule that quite honestly....bearly registers. I like the bottle and the branding though...they look pretty cool.
I really wanted to love this fragrance, I was extremely excited at the prospect of another AdP Colonia and one based on Ebony wood sounded delightful, unfortunately Ebano misses the mark. It starts very well, the opening is really superb, the red pepper note hits upfront, both fresh and spicy and then the unmistakable ebony note is among the best I’ve smelled, owing to the fact that it is the true focus but with touches of vetiver and other cleaner woods. Totally masculine, on the darker side with a dusty, dry feel and a hint of patch earth too. The thing which lets this perfume down is the drydown, it dries down, to creamy woods quickly and Is just a bit flat. Ebano is something which could’ve been so good and even glimpses greatness briefly but I’ve come across this before with this kind of woody scent. The drydown is passable but very boring and like something bog standard from the designer realm, I feel a bit bad giving it a hard time because it’s okay but could’ve been so much better. I’m not too bothered about the performance but it is a low lying hum as can be expected from an ebony/woods fragrance with little silage but still unusual for this line as they are usually strong. In conclusion then, I loved the opening and thought I may have hit on a holy grail of old skool, peppery, masculinity but that excitement was too short lived. I’d recommend anyone to try it but Ebano didn’t meet my high expectations.
I tried this in Birmingham a few years ago and all the way home (stuck in traffic for hours!) I was totally intrigued and intoxicated. (I don't mean I was drunk) It was one of those where I knew EXACTLY what this reminded me of almost immediately. I say 'almost' because the opening is such a strong, chaotic, swirling of notes that it's really difficult to discern what's going on. Then when it's settled sufficiently it's basically Tom Ford's glorious Black Orchid. Again...I say 'glorious' but I gave my bottle of Black Orchid away to a friend of mine as I thought she'd appreciate it more than I did. That's the main problem, although dark, exotic and with gourmand facets which one could argue are the epitome of unisex, I still find it too feminine. Because of the glaring comparison this is the case for Oud 24 I'm afraid. It has a sweet but a little smokey oud opening, then chocolate, cacao, patchouli incense and exotic florals pour out from what is a BIG fragrance. I don't go in for this being an exact clone of BO, put it this way I think I could tell them apart from the opening in anycase. This has more of a middle eastern feel, it's woodier and more raw, becoming even more complex. Yes I know than Black Orchid a massively complex perfume in itself, a statement that shouldn't be possible, but Oud 24 Hours manages it somehow. I still found the floral aspect way too much for me and it grated in the same way as Black Orchid. So is this a cheap and viable alternative? I'd say so, the performance was very good but I also remember that being the case for the TF too. If you like BO it's worth knowing this stuff is out there.
I'm always fair to Beckhams fragrances but this one is not great. Not only is it behind the times stylistically (not always a bad thing) but Respect's tired and synthetic opening doesn't excite. It then settles a bit to a really sad, melon/ cheap aquatic, mildly derivative of loads of scents but exceeding non of them. Sorry Dave...I'm not a fan of this one.
I quite enjoyed the original and I'd even sniffed out CR7 (the release that came out after this one) before I got my nose on this and I gotta say, I'm a little disappointed. Private edition is a bit like I imagine the man himself to smell, brash, over the top and sickly sweet. I don't mind a sweet fragrance at all and the thought of maple notes gets me really excited but this don't do it for me I'm afraid. The opening is an intoxicating cloud, a kind of dirty vanilla blob, which put me in mind of that tonka bean craze of a few years back. There's an amber warmth but it's very cheap smelling and I've not idea what other notes are there because frankly it's a bit of a mess. One thing I will say for it, Private edition is in keeping with the line and does have a certain unique quality (maybe it's that maple? I'll have to wear it again) which will be striking to some and is what I liked about the original. However, It's not unique in a good way, it's more a 'who can make the ickiest, gourmand chemical bomb on the market?' kinda way and that's not big or clever. Sorry Cristiano, I don't hate this and I will try it again but my gut says thumbs down and I don't think that's gonna change.
Usually marketing blurbs annoy me but 'sophisticated' and 'easy to wear' are incredibly apt descriptors in the case of Essence Aromatique. I've worn it once and sampled it a couple of times since and I'm still arriving at the same conclusion...this is a very decent effort. I like the original, the Intense, and have only recently tried the parfum and don't feel equipped to comment on that one but generally I enjoy them all, so it wasn't a surprise that this one was good. What was a surprise however was the seemingly different vibe of this compared to the original and subsequent flankers, it really is a totally different animal. A modern and clean, citrus and almost fougere opening which gives way to a more earthy, spiced and moss and wood heart, finally finishing on a deep but mellow bed of patchouli and cedar. I'm so glad that Bottega Venetta didn't phone in a weak aquatic which I feared when looking at the name and packaging. Now apparently this is an EDC concentration and while it isn't stong, I think considering that, Essence Aromatique lasted okay. This is well executed and it's just really nice to see that there's still care being taken and respect to tradition observed, when making new releases. Although this isn't earth shattering stuff it ticks boxes for me, overall originality? tick. Great opening? Tick. Enjoyable wearing experience? tick. Nice drydown? Tick. Not one dimensional? tick....and Is performance acceptable? Tick. Despite never owning it, I have had about 25 (not exaggerating) carded samples of the Pour Homme and worn it loads because I find it highly original and this isn't bad either. Maybe I should get some Bottega Venetas because I like them.
Cards on the table, right off the bat for Quercia....This is a really, really good fragrance. Not only does it adhere to tried and tested ideas but it has some suprising extra depth and quality to elevate it that bit further. Opens with a signature AdP freshness, petitgrain/citrus/verbena but immediately let’s you know that this is a woody fragrance, with earthy tones and plenty of oakmoss, lending a wonderful masculinity. So far so straight forward but the quality of the woody base really does keep giving throughout, those lime top notes lasting well into the drydown and at the heart of this fragrance there’s cardamom and geranium, all giving a kind of Italian vibe. The most surprising thing for me is the very deep drydown after many hours...there’s the soft vanilla notes which I’m assuming is from Tonka Bean. Faceted, brilliant, strong and long lasting but not invasive...I’m pretty sold on this superb Chypre type fragrance, Bravo Acqua Di Parma.
I’m in two minds about this fragrance. On the one hand I love the opening, the depth, the sheer quality and middle eastern vibe of this fragrance in general. However that is one of things I don’t like...it’s intrusive...invasive even strong heavy projection and a unrelenting smell which I can only take for a short period without nasal fatigue. This is the problem with many UAE frags oils and attars I have, they bang too hard. I also have a slight problem with this being called santal...suggesting sandalwood which is clearly in the mix and might even save this scent somewhat, but it’s undoubtedly an oud. The oud is loud, proud and has that sharp, dankness which reminded me specifically of AdP oud calonia a fragrance I kinda like but actually gave to a friend for the same reasons I couldn’t wear this one. In fairness to the Guerlain composition here oud, musk, rose, citrus and resins are handled absolutely perfectly and combined much more lovingly to create a smoother, much less clumsy and more rounded scent. I like it, I think it’s brilliant in fact, and couldn’t help sniffing it throughout a long wearing experience but for me it becomes a little too much. This is just personal preference because I’m quite amazed by the opening and just how much oud potency and carefully finessed surrounding notes. Another stunning scent from Guerlain but definitely one for unapologetic oud lovers. Update: The deep, deep, deep drydown (approximately a week later on my coat sleeve and a sample card) and I'm absolutely amazed at the smell. Not least because it's still there but because it's warm, soft, complex and truly outstanding. It's not just a base trail either there's mainly oud a soft sandalwood left sure, but it even the subtle heart notes still remain. Crucially it's not harsh at all. Maybe this is the key to having this scent? Spray it on clothes you're going to wear in a weeks time.
I have to say I thought this was a reasonably good fragrance. The opening is nice, interesting, clean and fitting of the name modern leather...probably the modern bit more than the leather. It has a powdered leather which is much more subtle and something you might find in a more feminine and lighter fragrance. The main notes are basil and geranium to be honest, and that’s fine by me as it’s tempered with a edge of masculinity from a oakmossy type note. That’s it really. It has dried down very nicely and actually reminds me a touch of Tom Ford for Men, if it’s available heavily discounted in a few months time then I’d definitely consider adding it to the wardrobe because this is wearable stuff for me.
This is a decent scent and I’m not just saying that because of my usual enjoyment of all things Penhaligons, it really is. Starts out with a new approach which is typical of the house, complex yet understated and apart from fruity top notes and a tobacco/Tonka general nature, it’s something I hadn’t really come across before. However, after the first few minutes it settles and completely changes to a honied, more powdery but ultimately the same scent as TF Tobacco Vanille. I haven’t got a problem with this and even less so for two reasons, it’s not exactly the same and that it has a different opening and drydown, which we will get to in a moment. The problem is that on the whole is this a better fragrance than TV? I don’t really think so. It doesn’t quite have the same balls out strength although the longevity was excellent to be fair. The drydown was much more Tonka bean and a sweeter more playful vanilla than the Tom Ford. So in conclusion interesting opening which fools you into thinking it’s not a clone of TV, then the heart of it IS TV, then the drydown reminds you it isn’t with some softer, refined tones. A good effort, worth trying but I won’t be buying it.
