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Pekji Odoon

Don't be fooled by the prominence of the smoke icon looming large at the top of the note votes. Odoon is surely a smoky perfume but it's not one of those where everything is dominated and bonfire sizzled by the smokiness. What impressed me about Odoon was the sheer commitment to the woody vibes in here, no jarring top notes for the sake of Indy originality, no quirk or gimmick just a perfumer taking a concept through to it's logical conclusion and ending up with a stunning perfume. For all that, it's not massively original, I think I've smelled stuff similar but can't place it, although I could be wrong because had I smelled this before I'd likely have procured a full bottle. I'm even going to go as far as saying that Odoon was the highlight of my perfume sampling from 2018. It's sublime. Heavy resinous woods, thick turpentine edged, with a brutal opening (as per everything Pekji) to the smoothest and most beautiful of landings. It's seeped in cedar wood, naturally smoky oak, sandalwood and perhaps vetiver too? This is a masterclass in how to do, smoky, dry woods that have impact but aren't too intrusive, this is a touch more wearable than some of the the others from the line which have a touch of the artistic, extrovert, savagery about them. I love Odoon and I want a bottle, it's as simple as that. Update: Wore this fragrance again today and I have to say I neglected to mentioned the curried, slightly sweaty note in here which I put down to coriander seed or caraway or something in my IG review. My mum said I smelled of celery and that's when it hit me that Odoon smells quite a bit like celery salt, that kind of concentrated celery aroma. Omer Pekji actually set me straight confirming that the spice that's so prominant in Odoon is actually fenugreek, a spice I don't think I've ever used in cooking? He also mentioned that newer formulations of Odoon with have the fenugreek content reduced by two thirds.

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Parfums de Marly Carlisle

Parfums de Marly

So I wrote the bulk of this review a few years back and haven't posted but I'm really glad that folks are generally so happy with Carlisle, because it's a very accessible fragrance. Having used quite a lot of cardamom in perfumes of my own recently I have to say that the spicy, soaped element you get when cooking with it is exactly what the raw material smells like. Now it's either that in the hands of a master perfumer, it becomes less spice and more of a smoothed out 'feeling' a feeling I get from many fragrances purported to have cardamom in. Or they simply don't have that much cardamom in. I've ranted in defence of PdM before so I'm not going to do that again but there's a perception that they are making clones and 'designery niche' fragrances to deliberately target an emerging market, of preppy type Creed Aventus wearers. I'm sure there's an element of that and frankly seeing that Yanni guy everywhere gets on my tits, but I think this house has merit and this fragrance epitomises the style I think they're going for. They almost have a basis in a kind of warm, slightly spicy, oriental centre that's soft and caressing. I only have oajan but a handful of them carry a similar vibe and Carlisle is somewhat a mixture of the big hitters. Aspects of Oajan, Byerly, Herod etc... (and actually the blueprint for Layton which wasn't released when I first penned this review.) but with an unassumingly smooth nature (could be the cardamom?) of almonds or something? A little sweet, woody but well balanced. I really liked it and thought it was highly wearable, but just a little safety first and if you're spending big cash then you want to be wowed.

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MDCI Parfums Le Barbier de Tanger

Le Barbier de Tanger

I hate reviews which go completely against the trend and off on a tangent comparing the subject fragrance to others, of which it bares no resemblance. So I apologise in advance but hear me out. I think barbier has one of the most exciting openings I’ve smelled for sometime. It opens with juicy punch of citrus and tangerine peel, then starts out on this rive gauche like, barbershop affair and you think okay, I’m feeling this. Then comes a Dior (or should I say Christian Dior?) Fahrenheit type accord lurking through this powdery Fougere. I thought there has to be Violet listed in the notes and combined with a dirty, oily, diesel smell which wouldn’t be out of place in a Xerjoff fragrance and somewhat of a signature of theirs I think. These two elements conspire for a brief moment to conjure up an old formula Fahrenheit, with non of the vanilla sweetness and dumbing down that has crept in to recent batches. Call me crazy but Thats what I get . I consider myself somewhat of an authority on the older Fahrenheit and I can honestly say a smidgen of it’s spirit graces this fragrance. Can someone please tell me they smell it too and I’m not just imagining things? However, As it settles after the first 20 mins or so this fades completely and the majority is a dazzlingly well rendered mix of green notes, lavender, oakmoss, cardamom, all of which was there to start with but caught up in that opening it gets a bit lost and jumbled. Le Barbier de Tanger is lovely, really lovely and a preference for me over Invasion Barbare. (Which is also very nice) It becomes more and more powdered and less distinct very quickly indeed, retreating down to the skin with a warmth of resins in the base. This composition has been given some thought and although the resulting fragrance might be a touch disappointing when all is said and done, I like the brief but thrilling ride it gave when first applied. This sadly applies to the performance and silage as well, becoming a skin scent after less than an hour and not projecting very much at all. When it’s really settled I get the modern aroma chemistry, and something salty and of the sea. I know what Calone smells like but I wouldn’t of necessarily thought that was it. I need to wear this again properly to give a better appraisal, because it is one them but I’d say on the whole shows promise but doesn’t quite deliver. It might have gotten away with it too but when you’re paying top wack, expectations are sky high for a reason. UPDATE 14/05/21: When I look back at reviews like this I'm staggered by how similar my thoughts are (rather than how much different) because I largely stick to what I said above, there's nothing 'wrong' with what I'm saying here as such. However, I hadn't tried Invasion Barbare in a while here and it shows because that is WAAAYY superior to this, it's the best of that style of fougere, end of conversation about that! Barbier de Tanger starddles the wonderfully natural feel and the incredibly hollow, sensation of woody and ambrox base materials. The brilliance shining through on occasion but I'm not that taken with this fragrance, it's good, complex all the stuff I said above and I like it but I'll never love it.

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Iceberg Iceberg Homme

This is one of those fragrances that smells dated and not resembling anything natural, it feels somehow like it's representative of a not so long bygone era, when we wore things like this. Do you know what though? I really enjoyed it. Blind bought very cheaply and although I may have a clean out of my collection, and this would get the boot, I was reminded that I can still derive pleasure from something like Iceberg Homme. It's got a feel of the typically clean, mens, powdery, musky body with a head of synthetic smelling lavender. Something about it is inviting and reminiscent of shaving products, it's a poor man's barbershop (being that's there's a fair few high end ones) fragrance. If I had to compare it to something it would be difficult, yet it feels so familiar at the same time. Maybe versace dreamer but without warmth or depth of tobacco, or Versace Blue Jeans but without the creamy sweetness...so like neither of those haha. Two people have said Fendi Uomo which as much as I've not trashed this fragrance, I still find an insult. I mean how could you even think they were remotely similar? Lasts pretty good and will likely get another wear before it gets tossed aside like so many others.

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Byron Parfums Mula Mula

The amount of hype for this fragrance was nuts! Glad to see it's hardly got any reviews from the more discerning crowd here on Fragrantica and the like. Instagram 'Influencers' (pffft!) have been going mental, likely because the brand has been handing out bottles like there's no tomorrow. They became SO ubiquitous last year but I guess it's worked because despite not wanting to conform, inevitably my curiosity gets the better of me and to be fair to Byron they sent me samples of Pirates and 0.9 too. Mula Mula was the big one though and I wanted to hate it pretty badly because it was getting disingenuous, well at best hyperbolas reviews almost universally so from every bedroom reviewer out there. Hats off to Byron because it's likely worked and made them money but I suspect long term there will be a backlash against the support from Youtube and IG sef proclaimed 'influencers'. So what's it smell like? A big dense, boarderline sickly gourmand but it does have some interesting elements and despite a slightly muddled composition, I have to reluctantly say...I quite liked it. Syrupy , liqueur booze and caramel, with a definite berry and peach notes. The base is heavy woody and long lasting and although not clearly defined I wouldn't doubt there's oud as listed, there's definitely vanilla anyway. It's long lasting but as I said a bit cloying and cumbersome to wear for me. I like a gourmand like Frapin 1270, which style wise isn't a million miles away but in terms of pure finesse it makes Mula Mula look crude in comparison. Not bad then and if you love it, fine.

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Ermenegildo Zegna Integrity

Ermenegildo Zegna

There's some nice, luxurious smelling fragrances in this men's line from Zegna and I wouldn't even say this is really one of them either but I was completely charmed by it. This smells strong and assertive to me, very much a power suited city boy off to his hedge fund (I don't even know what that is? but I heard it somewhere once and it sounds good) management job in some glistening, high-rise, building. I fact the overall tonality and feel of this line is one of manly success and dare I say a touch of the Trump about it. Don't worry I'm not getting political here, I'm talking about the pre-presidential, plain old, Multi millionaire, Apprentice, golfing, pussy grabbing, Trump... Just that guy. The opening is very familiar to me, seeming like a big, high quality fragrance but with a certain accessibility, and probably the reason some might think it lack lustre. It's a potent, clean, modern, herbal, leather opening, mutating into a hefty geranuim, slightly powdered but with none of it's usual slight mintiness. The drydown keeps giving with resinous warmth and some green aspects and flecks of the metallic. I found it strong and long lasting. I actually want a bottle, really.... but the price is is prohibitive. Again just let me state that I've spent more on a fragrance than this in the past and I don't usually moan about price, if you like something enough then you'll justify it to yourself. However, I just think that seeing as though this is going to replace the Essenze line (according to Zegna insider) they could have given them a comparable price point. Lot's of designer brands seem to be trying to get away with making these high end/exclusive lines in order to cash in on the niche boom and thoughts probably along the lines of...."Creed can fleece consumers...why can't we? We've been doing it with our clothing for decades and been missing a trick releasing comparatively 'cheap' perfume." Well people you've had it good for long enough now they are all out to charge you £200 plus for a bottle. So these are actually £195 for 50ml's which is more than the standard Tom Ford Private blends. The Essenze line were about £130 (I saw them for as little as £90) for 100mls which is much more reasonable and was this the case with Integrity and believe me I would've perhaps bought it then n there.

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Mugler Over the Musk

This is the best one from this line in my opinion and it's slow burner. That's not to say that I didn't immediately find it gorgeous because I did, a super minimal, sensual, warm ambrette note, soft cashmere texture, this kind of perfumery is so up my street, especially when the sledgehammer approach starts to get tired. All you need is a beautiful, sweet, musky, simplistic fragrance like this. Ambrette seed is VERY expensive and if this uses the real stuff (which I suspect it might) then the inflated price of this Mugler line is justified. Now.... not that I'm one to usually gripe about price or that these are even that expensive compared to some brands nowadays, but I feel slightly more comfortable paying top dollar for this than I would Hot Cologne for example. I am going to buy this fragrance at some point because it's so wonderful it grows fonder and fonder in my memory. Over the Musk is a triumph...just try it for yourself.

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Mugler Hot Cologne

A very nice piece of work, lovely fresh edc type fragrance with a little complementary twist of ginger in the opening. Decent, functional but didn't wow me and there's many at a cheaper price point that I'd pick before this one. For reference You could say hot cologne is a bit like a mixture of Dior Homme Sport and 4711. Performance was okay, especially for a largely citrus fragrance with minimal white floral elements.

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Mugler Alien Man Fusion

Alien Man Fusion

Do you know what? I'm not going to slate this. I thought it was quite nice and that's shocking considering the state of Mugler releases of late. Many people have said that it's because of Manfred himself no longer having ANY creative input whatsoever. I know he'd had a foot out of the door for a long time but this is well and truly a Clarins brand now. Not that this fact and the single word rebrand, should make all that much difference but in actual fact they've made this Alien Man flanker have more of the unique, heavy texture that the old Thierry Mugler stuff was known for. I mean it's not groundbreaking, the notes are barely discernible but not necessarily in a bad, chemical soup sort of way. I got a slightly warm cashmere/powdered/suede feel from the drydown and an opening that had me pleasantly surprised, because I feel I have to mention how appalling the first Alien was. I mean what a load of shit! That fragrance actually angered me! How could they release a whole new fragrance, especially trading off of the legacy of the Alien name, and make it so lack lustre and phoned in!?? They've redeemed themselves with fusion but only very, very, slightly because this doesn't have the showstopping impact, nor does it reach the dizzying heights that I hope Mugler can achieve again someday. Point is I liked it and it requires further investigation for sure. I will update this as appropriate.

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Frederic Malle Music for a While

Music for a While

Boy oh boy I loved this perfume. Now anyone who says 'just get some lavender essential oil' clearly doesn't get this perfume. It's Lavender dominant sure enough (at least at first) but comparing it to the raw material lavender (which depending on origin/extraction etc...can be very changeable) is just not fair. Neither is it fair to say it's remotely like a Caron Homme or Dior Eau Noire or any other lavender based fragrance. Now how can something with such lavender bias be so different...well for the reasons I mentioned above but more pertinently a great perfumer at the helm and complimentary surrounding notes. The opening is fresh, sweet and strange but anchored by a growing herbal lavender note which blooms quickly and does give a musician like feel (whatever that means?) I suppose a kind of creative, calmness. The main thing Music for a while does is transport me back to youth reminding me very vividly of some kind of gummy, jelly sweets, tropical fruits and the listed pineapple here makes absolute sense although I didn't immediately get that myself. I can understand why some folks would hate this, cloyingly sweet and pungent lavender and even I will admit it became a touch that way with the candied, fruit juice sweetness and generally artiness, but it accessed something within me and lovingly tickled it. Carlos Benaim is an interesting perfumer but this was a touch unexpected but then in hindsight, absolutely his style. I want it, but not at FM retail price.

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Ermenegildo Zegna Wisdom

Ermenegildo Zegna

This one and Talent serve as the functional freshies but Wisdom is even more classic in the Eau de Cologne sense comprising as it does mainly citruses and then a strong white floral neroli. Very nice and I have a new appreaciarion for just how much neroli can differ in smell as a raw material, and how it’s actually pretty expensive. However my overriding perception is that I shouldn’t be paying £195 for a nice citrus/white floral, but money talk is vulgar and it’s not that much of a big deal if you love it.

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Ermenegildo Zegna Talent

Ermenegildo Zegna

Talent is decent. You definitely get the tea and pepper elements just accenting what is a very accomplished bergamot/citrus. Quality no doubt but considering some of the others in the line, not something I would fork out for.

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Bvlgari Goldea the Roman Night

Goldea the Roman Night

È incredibile quanto possano differire le impressioni sullo stesso prodotto. Anche io sono tra coloro che si sono innamorate di questo Goldea al primo spruzzo, trovandolo spiazzante, affascinante, elegante, glam, da tacchi alti ed abito serale alla moda... per poi sostare in un limbo scettico per capire in che direzione la fragranza stesse andando (o se stesse addirittura svanendo). Ma proprio per questa violenta delusione ho voluto approfondire ed ho portato a casa la mouillette, assieme ad altre di altri chypre floreali, ed un po' per gioco le ho proposte ad amici e familiari. E sorpresa delle sorprese: 7 persone su 7 hanno preferito Goldea, in un tempo quasi sempre istantaneo (donne e uomini di età diverse). Non solo, sembra che il mio colpo di fulmine di quel primo minuto abbia fatto la comparsa anche su tutti loro, sebbene a molte ore di distanza dalle note di testa. È stato definito di classe, deciso, sexy ed elegante. Due ragazze mi hanno detto che lo compreranno. In conclusione, è un profumo di cui l'assuefazione giunge veramente abbastanza presto specialmente per chi lo indossa, ma se si riesce a preservarne la durata (proverò a spruzzarlo sulla crema corpo) manterrà un impatto notevolissimo di successo indiscusso. Testato e garantito!

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Miu Miu Miu Miu L’Eau Rosée

Miu Miu L’Eau Rosée

Questo profumo l'ho annusato per caso da Sephora, colpita dall'eleganza della nuova boccetta. Mi ha davvero sorpreso sin dall'apertura e poi è stato un amore graduale. Completamente diverso da tutti i rosati finora sentiti, lievemente dolce ma lontanissimo dai fruttati mainstream, più muschiato, reso particolarmente moderno dalla peonia. L'impressione globale è quello di una skin scent fiorita molto originale, cremosa, delicata, fresca. È un profumo che immagino indossato di giorno, dalla ragazza francese contemporanea, dal look classico e un po' androgino, in giacca e jeans maschili. Trovo che abbia davvero un che di sofisticato e al contempo sia di una naturale raffinatezza. Personalmente lo consiglio fortemente a chi ama le fragranze delicate, soapy ma non banali, da indossare tutti i giorni sul lavoro e per una passeggiata con le amiche all'aria aperta. Io lo adoro ogni giorno di più e per quanto è portabile lo adotterò come signature per le mezze stagioni!

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Yves Saint Laurent Cuir

Yves Saint Laurent

I put a like for this a while back when I first tried this line. This was always one that I expected to be good and was but moved passed it without to much of an event or fanfare. However, upon trying today I think it deserves more praise. If you love a sweet, warm oriental which in truth is more tobacco heavy than leather despite the name. It is leathery in the opening, sweetly edged, opulent and with an almost gourmand cinnamon spice of a tolu balsam, it really appeals but I like something to surprise me and it feels a little bit stock. However, as it dries down the tobacco is more dominant giving a different dimension even hints of tea and dry smoke from the tobacco accord but somehow cleaning everything up at the same time. The feel is more Miller Harris feuilles de tabac, Bertrand for L’Artisan or other blonde tobacco fragrances you might care to mention. It’s really great. Lacking the unusual edginess of my favourite of this bunch, which is Vinyl.

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Tom Ford Lost Cherry

I've become too much of an IG head in recent times and neglected my duties as a proud Fragrantica member, in not reviewing this perfume immediately. I was so jaded by the fragrance community, hype trains etc that this might well have been dismissed for the name alone. Tom Ford has become a bit too knowing with the innuendo of late and this offering tips over into parody. I hate to be this embittered and cynical but I really hoped I hated this just so I could rage back at the seemingly relentless noise it was getting online. Before people had even tried it and some jumping on it just to be first. The 'Influencer' set were biggin' it up, probably without even receiving free bottles such is the genius and momentum of the TF brand. All this misanthropy and negativity aside...I loved Lost Cherry. I only tried it once on my wrist so I perhaps haven't had the full experience and no one wanted it to be awful more than me...but it just plugged straight into some happy centre in my brain. I love Cherry and should've known it would be well handled by the private blend and not end up like some pound shop air freshener. The vibe is a deep, cherry and almonds but not cloying, not even too gourmand almost in the same sense as Plum Japonais but not as woody. It has the boozy, peru balm, cinnamon backing everything, it's basically a wet dream of stuff I like, but never thought would want in a perfume. Just goes to show you can't dismiss something on marketing, a silly name or the fact loads of people are hyping it because sometimes it's with good reason. I defy anyone to present a better cherry fragrance than this, I certainly can't think of any? I have a list of Olfactory priorities as long as a big willy (sorry some of Tom's crudeness is rubbing off on me....ooooh 'rubbing off'...I'll STOP now) so I probably won't be getting this anytime soon, but not because it doesn't smell good. This is coming from a person who bought Fucking Fabulous BTW. Yeah I know.

I can’t find my original review after a quick scroll but it went something like...this smells of cherries. (Or what our mind approximates the intensified, syrupy sweet, hyper cherry) It accesses the immature child in me and I go oooh lovely but is it perfume? Well to be fair it’s feels better more rounded and less cloying than a Demeter cherry or some cheap thing. However you’d expect richness for this price and even if it’s a one trick pony, you’d expect one hell of a trick and it largely pulls it off. A friend of mine mentioned how poor the longevity was, I hadn’t noticed to be honest but I put it to the test again today and by golly she’s right. The performance on this fragrance is so abysmal it’s not even funny. I’m not one to bang on about ‘performance’ I’ll leave that for moronic Youtubers and the like, but when you’re paying top dollar and after 3 hours this becomes NOTHING! Not a skin scent, not vanillin or aroma chemicals...NOTHING at all, (it’s pretty remarkable) then I have issues.

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Joop! JOOP! Homme Absolute

JOOP! Homme Absolute

Opens well and on a day I tried Eros Flame and Spicebomb Nightvision this was like a creative lightening bolt in comparison. Only in comparison mind you, this is still a Joop fragrance and as such about as subtle as a sledgehammer. I found the opening to be a dry, spicy resinous feel with a nearly rubbery texture, getting sweeter hints and more saturated by a ‘sexy’ Tonka accord. I can’t say I liked it really and the drydown got a little worse but in creativity terms so much more imaginative than the current glut of similar smush.

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Perfumer's Workshop Samba for Men

Perfumer's Workshop

I’ve never tried anything from this brand, I’m put off by the look of the bottles. I know it’s shallow but these have the appearance of something that wouldn’t seem unappropiate, quivering, glistening and plopping out of a satisfied orifice.

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Masque Milano Russian Tea

Not sure where my review is, perhaps it's just another one that was forgotten about because I tried this when it came out and remember it not living up to my high expectations. However upon wearing again, I'm much more understanding and sympathetic with it's themes. I love a good tea biased accord and it's pretty prominent in here backed up by a leathery woods. The birch tar smokiness and peppery notes are very subtle and chime well with the inherent smokiness of the tea but there's a brightness here too. The drydown is one of leather but there's a sweet fruity note, I'm not entirely convinced but I definitely enjoyed it more this time. Masque are yet to show me something I didn't think was of some creative interest.

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Penhaligon's Monsieur Beauregard

Monsieur Beauregard

This smells, to me, like an incredibly expensive version of Valentino Uomo. It's not exactly similar, but it definitely feels in the same ballpark with the lemon opening that transitions into a smooth, buttery, pastry-like fragrance. The big difference between the two for me is the obvious huge leap in quality from MB, it just smells so deep, rich and frankly, like money. The opening of MB is really top-tier, it's a beautiful lemon, peppery vibe with a touch of the sweetness to come and it's really special. Once the opening lifts away, the orris comes through, thick and luxurious, giving the whole thing a very smooth velvety feeling. It's a very classic touch, but at the same time, MB remains completely modern. I think it would be a bit of a crowd pleaser, my only hesitation being that it is really very heavy. This is another of the main differences between this and Uomo; whereas Uomo is light and a fairly close scent that's easy to wear, MB is heavy and dense and you need to be careful not to overspray or wear in a closed environment in my opinion, it could get cloying and oppressive real quick. Overall I'd say the pyramid is fairly true to what you get, except the patchouli, I didn't notice any patchouli at all, even in the late dry down so it must be soft in there. speaking of the dry down, it lasts forever. On me I sprayed it at 10 am this morning, it's now 3:30 am and I'm about to jump in the shower and I can still smell it as strong as I could at lunchtime. Absolute monster. Classic and very beautiful with a heavy modern edge, it's a beautiful fragrance. The bottle and juice colour is just as fantastic. MB is really a great scent, suited to the colder months, possibly needs to be dressed up to do it justice. I'm not sure it's a love for me, purely based on the fact it feels a little bit showy, but that's just a personal preference and objectively speaking, I think it's a very beautiful scent. Worth the price over Uomo? Not for me personally, I actually prefer Uomo as it's lighter and easier to wear, but there's no mistaking that this is a far superior fragrance as far as pure quality goes. Very nice effort from Penhaligon's and difficult to truly fault honestly.

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Mendittorosa Archetipo

Took a couple of tries to see the magic but I have glimpsed it now, and this is quite some fragrance. Opens quite fresh almost green, a little transparent with touches of the sharp pine/eucalyptus about it. It's definitely resinous but has the bright fizzy lemon of olibanum and elemi with some of the greener character of galbanum. This is all the opening, fleeting top notes and as such shouldn't be obsessed about because there's so much more to this than that. The incense becomes, smokier, oilier and with a touch of the diesel fume about it. High quality Vetiver adds to this dry smokey touch but never dominates the cerebral, and actually quite light feel. the sweet pink pepper note chimes in too. It's a strange one which I kinda dismissed upon first try, then on the the second try remarked on how well it transitioned through different stages, lasting very well on my skin. I really liked it.

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Gallivant London

I found this to be a truly innovative piece of work, but it's lighthearted, wearable nature is probably doing a good job of masking that fact. I reckon the votes being mainly for 'like', back that theory up, because a violet/rose fragrance with animallic leather and cucumber freshness, sounds like a bit of a train-wreck or at least a polarising Love/Hate thing? London carries off the broadly floral hue of Gallivant perfumes into the opening of violets and roses, powdered and jammy but combined with fresh green notes. Nice enough so far then a subtle, buttery iris/orris accord starts to develop on a delicate woody base. Despite the rose bias, London smells like nothing I've worn before but I suppose it kinda fits into a cleaner, brighter category almost to the point of effervescence. Think Lumiere noire, lyric even. London is a really measured piece of work, I thoroughly enjoyed it.

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Gallivant Berlin

Having worn this entire line a couple of times now I have to say that I've quite smitten with the easy going charm, exuded by each one of these fragrances. Berlin was the first I wore properly on skin and it didn't disappoint. Uplifting and fresh Berlin is a mixed bag of bitter citrus and tangerine qualities, with the longer lasting citrus of petitgrain. The heart of Berlin is a tea note which complements the bright opening and with vetiver backing it up adds a hint of dry smoke...but not much. It settles very smooth and considering tea and citrus can have sharp metallic qualities it's a mellow fragrance. Perhaps a little to mellow? No I can't fault it, Berlin lasted okay and really woke me up, energising my Monday morning. I like it.

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Chanel Paris – Venise

Paris – Venise

Very low lying, ultra transparent fragrance which had a synthetic feel to it. The vanilla and orris/iris sits so close to the skin the fresh notes barely pop, it's another super minimal fragrance that repeats the EDC mantra of barely existent longevity and projection. That's not what fragrance is all about though and I have images of some lady in a silk nightgown, pampering herself, perhaps waiting for a lover to arrive? and if you are close enough to snuggle, barely gives off a perfumed smell, but just sort of enhances her own soft, skin smell. (there's a reason why I don't use this sort of narrative in my reviews or have a career as an author of erotic fiction!;) I need to wear properly because I forgot it already, maybe that speaks volumes?

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