I'm making a point of trying 212 flankers because I'm sure some will be okay and I still like the original despite it getting little to know rotation these days. This fragrance goes through a odd transition starting out at a generic, salty aquatic vibe which reminded me quite a lot of Aqva Toniq but not quite as seaweedy. I just plain don't like this Calone business despite enjoying L'eau D'Issey and AdG. However as this settles after a few minutes it becomes less about that and more of a powdered musky vibe which isn't all that bad. I can kinda see after a couple of hours how this chocolate note appears, for me it's still just powdery musk but slightly resembling a hint of cocoa powder maybe for a moment. I thought this was the case without ever knowing the notes.) The drydown is much the same and maybe one for the masses but fragrance heads will see this for what it is, a cheap smelling long lasting scent with no stand out qualities for me.
Shay & Blue are such a surprise package with some really, really good fragrances expected to be linear but then have unexpected notes. This is a fragrance I would describe as being a citrus that could've been done by Amouage...well not quite but almost. You think mmmmm...Sicilian Limes nice... If the blood orange was anything to go by this is going to be zesty and accurate, and it is. The opening is sharp and does have a realistic lime feel but it's not quite in the league of something like Jade from Armani prive. The citrus is joined by a herbal note which works well with it and then a kind of cedary backdrop, no surprises there then. However that isn't the whole story because the main theme of this perfume is the early onset and progressive development of a curried cumin type note. This actually turns a bright zingy scent which appears all fun and games at first, into a pretty spicy affair. This works perfectly with the lime too, like lime pickle you serve with poppadoms or something? I can get why people wouldn't like this the drydown is very masculine and spicy in my opinion and also a bit sweaty like L'Artisan parfumeur Timbuktu. I liked it a long lasting citrus that dishes up more than I had bargained for.
Right! Well I was excited to try this flanker as the original was excellent despite not being my thing so maybe an intense version won't be either? The top notes are a little deceiving, quite smokey but not in a heavy way at all, high end spicy sandalwood, some bite, pink pepper and loads of Rose. To me at least the rose feels a bit different to the original, it's still light but no where near as bright. This rose is slightly powdered and even comes across as violet/iris like at times. Great trail off this and very long lasting, so all in all this truly is an amped up version of the original and worthy of the 'Intense' moniker. Despite this overall positive review, I'm not that taken by it, Cartier have played it quite safe with this flanker probably figuring that they want to remain in keeping with the original. Worth checking out...you could do a lot worse.
This one is undoubtedly the best of the three in my opinion. The top notes are interestingly fresh I find that tomato leaf note is more the greeness of galbanum but I can see how it comes over that way...after all what's more Itailian than a tomato? There's sweetness and sharpness from orris root and labdanum. The leather is a little spicy, resinous, peppery and even medicinal I can smell myrrh in here quite heavily as it settles. That opening is very good, a touch green but warm and resinous too, never strong or overbearing. The drydown is different again with a soft ambery vanilla developing at the back of all this. Italian leather is interesting from the point of view of a progressive scent which delivers what I consider a more masculine leaning fragrance. The perfomance is pretty good...it's worth checking out this one.
I mean these are big bottles (probably 200ml) but I was a bit shocked by the price...£335!!! I previously tried Irish leather and although I found it did deliver a kind of leather note, it was a bit too niche for my liking. This shares similarities but again is quite different, the smell immediately reminded me of something but I can't place it just at this minute. This is a delicate floral scent which is the least 'leathery of the lot and listing suede on here is probably more accurate as it's a lighter more powdered effect. The juniper and citrus in the top notes are characteristic it would appear and the pink pepper, rose musk and vetiver are all present as it dries down. This has quality ingredients no doubt but the lasting power and silage are average and even disappointing at this price. I like the smell don't get me wrong and Memo perfumes certainly have a signature going on but this one isn't for me.
The combination of violets/rose and absinthe, especially in the top notes make for an intriguing brew. Levantium is pretty triumphant and I'm someone who loved Lothair from this collection as well. A perfect mixture of sweet and sour has a slight earthiness mixed with very luxurious and full bodied florals. The opening for me is quite musky but like everything from Penhaligon's totally under control allowing the wormwood and rose to shine but with a hint of clove and spices. The body of this fragrance is those woods oud and sandalwood to be precise and in the dry down are more prominent turning this juice very woody and almost animalic with musk after the first two hours. That floral combo in the top and heart notes reminds me for a moment of Tom Ford Noir de Noir but this is less deep and sensual but far more complex and less crowd pleasing. That floral woody base does have a slight 'off' note to it perhaps the oud but I find it a welcome and balancing dimension to Levantium. If yours expecting a strong oud fragrance this isn't it Penhaligon's (in the main) are all about combining lots of notes to create something which seems simple and effortless this fragrance is no different. I bought it on the spot because I was really taken with it but by the same rule it will never be my favourite fragrance. It has okay performance too.
Having tried the vast majority of Roja Dove fragrances I can honestly say that them being triumphantly brilliant, I still have this odd stigma that they're going to be disappointing. I thought to myself 'what's he gonna do with amber?' Many of his fragrances whether chypre's or Fougere's however he chooses to categorize them still contain a rich, warm body of labdanum/benzoin. I'd describe this as a musky, gourmand amber like the kind of wonderfully light accord you'd find in a designer fragrance but very natural and of much higher quality. IF you're expecting the typical, hot, sticky orange elixir or the dry, dusty old library then prepare to be shocked and amazed by this. I absolutely love this fragrance and if I could afford it, even at half the price... I would consider getting it for sure. The opening is fresh with orange and citrus notes then the powdery gourmand wave of chocolatey cacao, soft vanilla and spices then a very good base of amber. Just because it's called Amber do not make the mistake of thinking its linear or like something you have in your collection...it more than likely isn't.
I wrote a positive mini review of this on the forum already but I think I spoke too soon? The opening is fantastically fresh truly a wonderful mixture of two things which shouldn't work but just do...a very juicy, refreshing and watery Cucumber note with a creamy richer almond. The two are often used in those exfoliating products that tend to be used by or aimed primarily at women. That's not say I think this is feminine because it's a fresh scent which is quite inert and just can't help but just evoke an air of cleaniness. The almond is not sweet and the balance with the cucumber is just right however after the opening it's a different story. Mimosa will never be a favourite perfume ingredient for me and as this dries down the mimosa becomes extremely intrusive and in this context giving an awful moisturizing cream vibe, which I do not care for in the slightest! It works, it's a complementary ingredient to the almond and cucumber but similarly with heliotrope I find it quite floral and not in a sweet way but a good partnership for the almond nevertheless. Some will love this one and I can see why it's a good perfume and surprisingly lasts a long time but not for me I'm afraid after the first ten minutes it turns into a sour white/yellow floral, hand cream mess. Shame, I will give the 10ml bottle I got to my missus she'll wear it!
This is a really, really good oud fragrance and not because it stands out but rather that it doesn't. I let out the obligatory oud sigh of appreciation so it scores on that front. Oud Alif is so smooth and well done, it does have a leather quality to it and a creamy patchouli, I found it very impressive. A gourmand oud is how I'd describe it and understandable considering the rest of Shay & Blue's fragrances have that Food or at least fruit twist. Performance was good but never in your face and the price won't break the bank either. The theme of this house is wearable scents and this one is certainly that. Brilliant stuff!
Usually I will apply a fragrance and put it up to my partners nose and she will say the totally wrong description, like a dense creamy, oriental she'll say "mmmm...that's really fresh and fruity." Or something to that effect...basically the total opposite of what it is. (Who knows how her nose works she could be right and it's everyone else who's wrong.) Anyhow...memo Irish leather was a big exception...as soon as she got a whiff "that's LEATHER!" She proclaimed and I proceeded to patronise her with an unexpected "wow it is...well done!" I mean I can smell the leather (and I had prior knowledge of what the scent was called don't forget) but I was a bit surprised because for me it didn't smell completely typical or even that Tuscan Leather type approximation used in perfumery would have been more obvious for a noob to detect as 'leather' , I would imagine? Anyway... She went on to say that memo Irish leather smelled like a new car and I have to say I agree with her. It's a very accurate description because I would include the plastic and wood too. She never got the opening but it is indeed a sharp juniper which frankly I find jars with the leather. It takes a while to develop fully but when it does my my its an interesting one. Mate!!! Mate has shown up for a second time in a couple of days trying new fragrances and I'm still non the wiser what it smells like? Whatever is effecting the leather in here is not unpleasant but not to my liking. My first from this house and I'll be honest I've smelled better fragrances than this one, performance was good but I desperately want to try it again before writing anything off. Very very interesting...Gets marks for originally and that's half the battle these days.
Okay, so I very much like this perfume I have to say and I don't know why but it's a guilty pleasure for me, something about it's construction says it's kinda cheap thrills perfumery or lacking in a deeper level of sophistication. Yet a part of me craves this perfume. Another problem is that I own a clone of this, yeah me buying a clone! What a hypocrite!!! Let's add some context. I wasn't aware it was a clone, in as much as anyone can buy a Rasasi fragrance and expect to get something original and I certainly didn't know it was a clone of this and in fairness I've never smelled anything like Irish Leather/Ambergris showers so in fairness to Memo and Massenet gives them a huge amount of credit for making something truly memorable. It smells like hefty juniper, fizzy, green citrus in the opening, metallic, angular, it's incredible brightness only dimmed with the balance of dry, smoky, powdered aerated woody, leather accord. It's magnificently simple and direct, the kind of approach I imagine would go down well with the Aventus bro crowd, and I'm not saying that to seem all superior more that I think Memo really hit on something here. Irish leather is butch in terms of it's woody and leather themes but generally bright and easy going, pure high street fodder in that other sense but definitely feels decadent and luxurious in some sense too. I personally really enjoy wearing it and for me it doesn't raise a conundrum about the clone because having now worn this I perceive this as marginally better but truthfully there's not a great deal in it, I would advocate for this over the clone.
I'll start by saying this is not my cup of tea at all a mixture of dense complex heavy floral chypre and aromatic powerhouse...make no mistake people, Diaghliev is real perfume. I respect this composition for it's complexity and moments of beauty but the main elements are too dry and potent for me. The opening is a classic device the interplay of sharp lemon/lime citrus and heavy musk. The oakmoss and civet are very heavy indeed but don't choke you out and that means one thing...superb quality. The balance is right here and if you like this sort of classic approach to perfume then this composition would rival the very best. The dry down is very nice and there's too many notes to mention popping out of the mossy earthy base. There's elements I don't like, you can smell cloves and ylang quite strongly in the opening especially this is too musky, never feminine (in fact almost butch at times) but quite dated and too formally perfume like but not the way I want to smell. I can understand how some would consider this to be Roja's stand out work as the others are quite accessible and almost modern in comparison to Diaghliev. Great longevity and projection but not for me.
At last one of these 'Addictive state of mind' collection that doesn't heavily resemble another fragrance. Intoxicated - Nuanced upmarket A*Men/Pure Coffee. Smoke for the soul - subtly modified KINSKI. To me with Light my fire I can see the back to black, Chergui and Lanvin Avant garde but this is different enough to all of them to be it's own thing. I really like the fact the honey isn't over done the opening is slightly sweet with it but the hay note and tobacco are full bodied enough to offset that. The cumin in here is not everyone's cup of tea but luckily I love it and again, when balanced against vanilla the spicing is perfect. I did wear it on my skin and it smelled good lasting fairly well but I also sprayed it on a card to remind me of the scent several days later and it has a very faint woody/tobacco/cumin smell now. All in all this is a good perfume and perhaps by default my favourite. Still the performance leaves a bit to be desired considering the premium price.
Unfortunately as the Kilian range expands it really exposes them for not being all that exclusive or original. Creations like Back to Black and Straight to heaven really impressed with their flare and spark of creativity. Sure you're going to get similar perfume from different brands and I accept that fact but this should perhaps be reflected in the price point here? Perhaps putting it in a less expensive bottle or not having ornate boxes which require a key to get into! I do appreciate that the atomizer travel spray is beautiful and I do in fact own one, the refills are a great idea and a cheaper option. Right enough of that what about this juice? Smoke for the soul is excellent! Truly a wonderful scent heady, earthy, green and smoky. All true but one thing instantly came to mind... KINSKI. Yep I interrupted the girl at the By Kilian counter as she was about to tell me how original it was... "This is very reminiscent of KINSKI." and it is but again there's subtle differences. The smoke smells slightly different here as if a different wood is burning. I actually tried them against each other when I got home and the likeness is significant but not absolute. The opening is one of bright eucalyptus and a citrus note but not as fresh or prominent as it is in Kinski. As for the 'Cannabis' note I was a habitual, massive pothead for years and although I can see how this might be construed as a ganja note, I've smelled more convincing ones. Very woody base of birch tar, I don't know what mate is to be honest but there's a vetiver type smell in here. For all intents and purposes this base is covered in my collection, without saying this is a copycat because the subtle differences (lack of animalic quality for example) are enough to make it worth a sniff and perhaps some will prefer it? The longevity is okay and it has moderate projection to begin with.
I'm not surprised that I arrive at this page and there's already a flurry of comparisons to AMen. The young lady at the Kilian counter didn't know what to make of me as I reeled off notes and comparisons to AMen Pure Coffee. She was Like 'Ahhhh yes this does contain Bolivian coffee beans...' or something like that? Well I have to say when it settles the coffee is more realistic and well rendered even than that of Pure Coffee and you'd expect that. To me though the whole accord just rings with that complex patchouli/caramel vibe with very little difference. The differences that are slight to me were a dry woody scent and some pepper which sets it enough apart from Thierry Mugler not to be a straight up copy. Couple that with the very nice coffee dominant opening and no out of place notes like in the original AMen you've got effectively an up scale version. The drydown is apologetically, exactly the same as AMen or Pure Malt or something and pretty long lasting too. Hey I love A*Men and I can't knock the smell of this but you'd have to be very rich and very ignorant of Mugler's creation to even give this the time of day.
Hmmmm...a compelling tale but far too many implausible elements and red flags for me. It could be the case that the truth is stranger than fiction even if it's just a kernal. However the skeptic in me refutes this story as marketing bibble, worthy of those kings of bullshit... Creed! This has been described in terms of perfumes like Amouage Reflection Man (one I like) and Fahrenheit 32 (one I don't) and I'd have to say it leans more in the direction of the Dior...Boring and totally lackluster! Wow! I can't believe I'm agreeing with Wes Clark another turn up for the books but his review nails it! This is a weakly transparent, generic, woody scent which to me has a hint of clean white blossom, cedar violets and a hint of vanilla. I don't see them listed but the violets are a certainty for me although everything else is so vague it makes me wonder how so many of Kennedy's friends were taken by this bland perfume? Another factor which doesn't help add to the veracity of the back story. Yeah quite disappointing and for that reason it gets a dislike vote from me, despite not being awful.
Okay so... 'Horrendous but interesting' is my appraisal. Despite wanting to try these C&S fragrances for ages now and without prior knowledge of this ones notes or reading anything about it, I'd assumed with a name like 'Cuba' it would be all about Tobacco...perhaps coffee too? but definitely some warm juice. I was correct in my assumption and like the true perfume lover I am, I except that certain unpleasant notes may be intrinsic in making a masterful composition. I scanned over the reviews here and only had to venture a couple down to see the dreaded 'F' word! Yes I too get the fecal in this and it taints my appreciation of what starts out pretty bad but in a different way. The opening is sickening boozy almost like the breath of drunk but a drunk who's trying to cover it up with mints! A twist of lime in there kinda works with the rum and mint but also makes this even louder and more odd. Really the minty accord is menthol like and adds such a strange dimension because you can tell there's going to be a strong tobacco about to develop. There's a spicy blend of bay leaf and clove in here which is not helping Cuba's cause either. When it does develop things get more intriguing still and there it is the pleasing, slightly dirty but accurate tobacco...that is for a second then...Feces! It's almost to the point you move your head away in disgust but if applied to your neck or chest not a lot you can do! Then minty tobacco comes back (which isn't even nice)...and you give it another chance then...fecal mote again. I smoke cigars on rare occasions and when choosing a particularly full bodied Cubanos they do indeed have a slightly unpleasant note to them, like an earthy manure type smell...maybe this is what C&S have tried to capture? Instead of fresh dried, countryside cowpat I get synthetic stink bomb, a smell which exceeds rather than emulates nature. I'm not a fan of C&S Cuba...whoever likes this or wants to acquire the taste good luck to you! Or if you're among the people who don't know what others are talking about when then describe this awful note...It must be great for you having a fragrance you enjoy and frustrating that people berate it to the point of smelling like shit...it must seem harsh. I'm truly sorry to be one of the detractors because these are affordable and very different, quality niche fragrances from a Uk based company but I can't abide Cuba. The drydown is much better in fairness but it's only after several hours the nastiness goes and then it's a barely recognizable warm skin scent. Lasts pretty well and as I mentioned isn't bad in the end but not for me at all, it was certainly an experience.
So this opens as expected a deep rose smell which runs the full spectrum of plummy jammy, then slightly darker and floral to musky then powdered in the matter of a few minutes as it settles down. That opening is not the most pleasant and does seem a little off to me. The rose is spiced pretty heavily too with saffron and resin but really starts to come into it's own as the drydown progresses with the patchouli coming into play. I have to say the progression of this fragrance is excellent, like many Montale's I simply don't like the rosy synthetic first hour or two then some sublime woody notes of oud/sandalwood and in this case patchouli come out to play and make this fragrance appeal to me. I loved the drydown of this and liked the progressive differences I got from it and the longevity was superb. Rose lovers, check it out you might just fall for it.
Okay for those who actually want a review from somebody who has tried the fragrance then you're in luck. In a very condensed nutshell this fragrance is a fresh woody, citrus very clean and uplifting the opening is a mixture of zesty bergamot and juicy mandarin, it's lovely, extra freshness and a hint of dryness is supplied by juniper and cedar however that's about it. This is a perfect aromatic scent, very familiar but not cheap or boring. Toy is in fact quite classy and natural, kinda reminds me of milisime imperial or Ed Hardy Love and Luck. Very wearable and charming but by far the most interesting thing about Moschino Toy is not the smell it's ALL about the packaging. If this had just been a normal release in a bottle I doubt it would get the fanfare. I know it's rediculous and stating the obvious but this gimmick is great and worked on me I love the little bear, it's super cute. Moschino fragrances are good across the board and this one fits in and keeps up that reputation, the longevity is quite impressive too for what is essentially a fruity lightweight scent. I had to get it just from a collectors point of view but in all honesty had the fragrance been awful I truly may have thought twice. You get a cool teddy and a nice fresh fragrance...Simple.
Fleur Oriental is a very fitting name for this perfume. Warm oriental base of resinous amber and vanilla...check...then some beautifully natural florals...check and musky qualities...check! I think the main thing that sets this apart is just how much natural spice has been accentuated from the carnation for example, it really does smell like a healthy dose of cloves. I do pick up on the white floral orange blossom a lot and jasmine to a lesser extent, this puts me right in mind of Creed royal English leather and Tauer Eau D'epices. The thing that sets this apart is the rose, a very well done fragrance which has enough elements of creaminess, florals, musk but with a bite of spice. I like it! Lasted pretty well, not my favourite from the line but a good scent all the same.
At last!!!! I can be massively complimentary about a 4160 Tuesdays fragrance...I knew I'd get there in the end. The lion cupboard is a superbly crafted scent and has that token bizarreness I've come to expect. The opening is a sharp hit of juniper and citrus then BAM! like a puff of coco powder in your face. The heart of this scent is the cacao but with a rich tobacco vibe and maybe some patchouli too, then a blackberry and anise type of smell...I love it. Reminds me very vividly of something (not perfume) which I can't quite place ? The drydown is very nice warm a hint of earthiness but not too much. It's a bit subdued and lasting power a little lacking considering it opens strong but I will let The Lion cupboard off because it's seriously interesting piece of work. Great stuff, gourmand lovers should try this one even though it's not just a straight up foodie scent.
Another enigmatic scent from Sarah. I'm not sure whether she is a genius, undeniably conveying complex themes and juxtaposing notes or she's just a clumsy perfumer throwing the kitchen sink at each creation and hoping for the best. A rhetorical pondering because either way, art is art and it's not my place to speculate. I hate gender labeling I really do but this is leading towards the 'too' feminine for me at least in the opening. I love tea and judging by the notes here you'd have thought this was a big fresh, interesting tea scent. The only thing I can speak to which may account for a unisex quality is the woodiness. It has a very sweet fruity, floral berry opening with geranium then green grassy note, then dry woody notes poke through as they do with many perfumes from this house even smelling a tad musty, like old paper. This has to be the combo of cedar and vetiver but perhaps with some tea too? It's settled right down now and I even get some sandalwood coming through...Who knew? has a bit more sanity about it than some creations. I was perhaps a little hasty saying it was feminine, just the opening maybe and I'll be honest, feminine or not I really love this right out of the bottle. The drydown is nice too and it lasted quite well. I'm positive about this one.
Very unsurprising that this fragrance has a Lush cosmetics quality to it. The opening is a toxic brew of fruits, sharp and highly concentrated like crushing up and bath bomb and snorting it. (Not that I would ever do that!) The sharpness of pink grapefruit and lemony notes mixed with raspberry is quirky but a little bit of a mess. As it settles though the violet lends some clarity, makes it a bit powdery and adds some relief from the hyped up jelly baby opening. To be fair the drydown is quite classy with these three R's Rose and Raspberry and Resins! The Tolu and Oppoponax base are really nice and balance out the fragrance well...giving a slightly earthy creamy warm base which isn't sweet. Kinda reminds me a touch of Royal bain de Caron in spirit. I actually like this scent, it's good stuff. Lasts well and transitions nicely. Like all 4160 Tuesdays its a complete oddball but does perfectly translate all the notes sharp and fruity to begin with, leading into powdery rose and violet then a hint of warm in the base. Not my cup o tea for wearing but I appreciate this one at least.
Woah! How could I dislike Mango? Love the fruit, smells great and this to be fair to Demeter, does smell like Mango. Unfortunately, I don't find it natural really it's pretty horrible, syrupy and just not something I want to smell like. Something goes very wrong when it touches my skin. When it dries down it just disappears which is a good thing...Mango is inexplicably poor. I love tropical flavours but this one deserves to be marooned.
I'm only just trying Demeter now! Yes unbelievably I've never tried them before and I figured (while starring at a bewildering WALL of testers) Thunderstorm would be a good place to start. The opening has a real wow factor, there's some seriously accurate, sensory, trickery going on here. It smells very much like the damp vegetation aftermath, carried though the still statically charged air of a thunderstorm. This is a brilliant realization of an olfactory concept. I can't see myself praising many of these because they're not really 'fragrances' as much as one note ponies. Thunderstorm however actually feels like a composition, some lightly metallic and mineral elements, water, a breezy hint of aldehyde, grasses, the earthy wet soil of smell patchouli maybe some vetiver. The balance and the dimensions are perfect to create a 'carried on the air' sort of feel. As it settled on my skin it did become more of a dirty patchouli and I feared that the opening was too short but then keep reverting back to the wonder of the beginning. This is an interesting scent and not my usual cup of tea but I found it to be a wonderful experience. Lasting power was better than most of these but that ain't saying much.
