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Nejma Nejma 1

Okay so I agree with the comparisons to the obvious it's like one of those sweet, raspberry leather concoctions in the shape of the usual suspects. However, Nejma just about has it's own thing going on and especially in the opening. I can believe there's oud, rose even saffron in here because it comes across slightly smokier with an all together darker tone and less of a blatant clone of...you know what. I can tell you now that side by side they develop ever so differently but ultimately to the same end. Well I'd actually say it shares more with Clive Christian C than anything else, the leather seems a it more genuine and it's not quite as intrusive but also means that it's not quite as strong either. Apparently according to some this is reasonably priced and could be a viable option if you love this kind of scent. I think because I've smelled so many of these, I can detect subtle nuances in the way they come over but frankly once you've tested these and decided which one works for you budget wise and longvity/silage it's really not something you need to own a load of and for that reason, although lovely smelling Nejma 1 is a bit redundant. I've avoided mentioning it so far but on balance you might as well get Tuscan leather. It's not the best value but in truth it's slightly louder and longer lasting.

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10 years ago

Aedes de Venustas Aedes de Venustas Eau de Parfum

Aedes de Venustas Eau de Parfum

Aedes de Venustas

Rhubarb is quite possibly one of my favourite things and I've been suckered in my rhubarb scents before from the likes of CdG and the last one I purchased from Hermes. However, I was never really convinced by the accuracy of these and frankly I didn't care all that much because an augmented apple/grapefruit note or a rhubarb and custard sweet is just as enjoyable as something authentic, orgainc and accurate. Aedes de Venustas makes the above mentioned seem like Clinique Happy compared to the smell of a ripely cut orange. It's probably very much down to the vegetal, tomato leaf surround and the green vetiver an slight hint of effervescent, zing from a touch of frankincense which gives the rhubarb more credibility and it's quite a long lasting top note too. Although not massively complex there's enough going on in this scent to keep me very interested throughout and it dries down to a calming vetiver and perceivable floral notes. (must be the honeysuckle) My favourite aspect though is ginger. Not listed in the notes I hear you cry?!?! Well I get the classic culinary combination of Rhubarb and ginger in here. It could be the other elements like vetiver creating that effect but it's definitely there, and wonderful it is too. The quality is evident in this scent and although it's not massive in lasting power or silage it was okay, mellow but passable. I liked it. Not quite enough to buy but I admire it.

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10 years ago

Comme des Garcons Blackpepper

Comme des Garcons

Anyone who reads my reviews will be aware that I'm a massive fan of Comme des Garcons but I have been a little out of the loop fragrance wise recently, so this release had passed me by somewhat. I've acquired some samples now and I've got to say on measure I don't think it's very good. The opening is fantastic and has all the excitement I'd expect, not only from CdG but from a pepper focused scent. I love the idea of black pepper being the central attraction of a scent and really like Marc Jacobs Bang and Clive Christian V for example. Unfortunately my main gripe with this fragrance is that it suffers from the same lack luster performance and intensity issues as Bang does. Blackpepper opens well enough with an unmistakable and aromatic pepper note which is both sweet, hot, dry and then into a steaky, gourmand peppercorn sauce sort of vibe. What interests me is 'where does this scent go from here?' that is the question, knowing that pepper notes are fleeting in most other outings. This one actually goes into nice CdG territory and becomes oddly sweet, reminding me of something I can't quite place. It's complex and more like a pink pepper after 20 mins or so but with some elements and style from Amazingreen or Man 2 and that incense modernity which is always a theme CdG nod to in most of their creations. The tonka is hinted at and patchouli works well with the pepper promoting an earthy but almost creamy vibe. All this complexity does please and intrigue and I'm never one to be unfair to a fragrance about lack of performance but this one on my skin was a joke. I wish I could tell you what it was like after the first hour but the fact is Blackpepper had all but disappeared. I wanted to love it so much and it does have some merit, all comme des Garcon scents please you right out of the gate but then after a few wears in hindsight, become one trick ponies. This ran the whole series of emotions in double quick time and now I'm at the last stage 'acceptance' of the fact this just isn't that great. I will wear the rest of my samples and maybe even do a revision of this review, perhaps it was my high expectations but there you go.

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10 years ago

Jeroboam Origino

So I started with what I figured was the signature scent from Jeroboam and what I got was pretty standard and in my opinion, more masculine focused stuff. Opens with juniper and lemon, before settling into a potent cedar groove, both sharp with synthetic muskiness and citrus with a hint of that nutmeg but generally a woody fresh scent. I liked it, Origino is modern and more suited to a man, but I didn't love it. I thought it lasted quite well too but quiet in terms of projection. I've no idea what Jeroboam scents cost but they look expensive and judging by this they are off to a lukewarm start with me.

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10 years ago

Joop! Joop! Homme Red King

Joop! Homme Red King

I fail to see how this is much of new direction for Joop Homme? It smells pretty similar to the original to me, and could be more accurately described as a tweaked, substandard version of a fragrance which is many folk don't like anyway. I'm not totally against Joop, I used to like it years ago and I don't find the new formulations to be anywhere near as potent. (dunno whether that's a good or bad thing?) Perhaps my tastes have become more refined but I find Joop Homme a messy construction. Red King is too. Really powdered feel to this with the cinnamon and perhaps pimento to liven it up in the opening. Strangely I find it cold and bit flat, probably not what they were going for. Make no mistake I'm not apposed to a chemical soup of this nature, the likes of Davidoff Hot Water for example which has a time and place for me. However this doesn't make me think, 'oh Wow! (no pun intended regarding Joop's other new release) this fragrance has rebooted and revitalized the Homme line.' Again I think this was the intention more than likely. It's definitely different from the original when it dries down there is more of a lighter feel which probably comes from the floral, orange blossom. I'm not sure this works? I've only tried it once mind so another wear and an update to this review is on the cards but I can't see how it's going to suddenly become an inspired scent.

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10 years ago

Joop! Wow!

Joop wow! Despite the ridiculous name which I can live with, and the orange box and uninspiring design, which again I actually think is striking in its own way. I can even live with the 'have to have' gimmick of the cap being like a polo mint, something I admit is a first on me...what I couldn't live with is if this scent is awful. To tell you the truth Wow! Is not awful. It's kinda got shades of a rubbery spicebomb or a less classy Gucci PHII you know that kind of sweet spicing and direction. It opens much more sweet and pungent with a bubblegum and synthetic berry accord though before it settles to that more familiar Spicebomb territory. The point is here that Wow! is not Spicebomb and I can get how it might be heavier in cardamom but the individual notes are a bit lost in this messy composition. Basically wow has all the crass DNA you'd expect from a Joop fragrance and (although I don't currently own any) I really do say that from a place of love....just. I desperately want to like some of the pour homme flankers that have graced our shelves in recent years but they all have the same balls out disregard for subtlety and nuance. Hey some people want that and Joop certainly provide it, in spades. As you enter into this really settling down, I thought it was a bit of a weakling but it's gently projecting and do you know what? I don't hate it. It's clumsy and troublesome but by no means awful if you don't mind a sweet, slightly icky, spiced fragrance then it's worth a sniff. The silage was quite good at first as I kept getting unexpected wafts but the general strength and longevity is nothing notable. I'm not wowed by wow!

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10 years ago

Parfums de Marly Galloway

Parfums de Marly

My take on this fragrance having tried it a few years back and firmly put it on the back burner as an uninspiring citrus are well...Lalique White wishes it was this! No... in fairness that's a decent parallel to draw it is a musky, metallic citrus with more than a hint of pepper but it's no where near as spicy as the Lalique, has far more enduring citrus and an interesting warm base that goes on and on long after Lalique White is a distant memory. I get the stripped back modernness that could evoke an Aventus or Sauvage and personally I think it has the metallic and musky edge of something like Silver mountain water, (other citrus Creeds)or to a lesser extent Caron L'anarchiste. It's definitely got a wearable down to earth feel and is much better quality than most designer fare following a similar blueprint. It lasts really well and actually projects better than you might imagine. If it was heavily reduced in price I'd pick up a bottle for a go to sunmmer time scent. Galloway is a nice scent.

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10 years ago

Parfums de Marly Oajan

Parfums de Marly

I can't believe I bought this fragrance from Fortnum & Mason about three years ago and I still haven't posted a review...I'm getting so lax these days. Anyway...I think that amount of time and several winters (coz it's a winter thing really) of wear makes me more than qualified to give my opinion and it's that Oajan is a strong outing from this house. Although I'm relatively easy to please, there's few fragrances which I'd say I'm pretty much always in love with. Oajan very nearly has that honour but because of it's inherent, festive seasonality it needs to be rested from time to time but when revisited the love affair begins anew. Yeah it's a big, warm cinnamon, booze and honey fragrance with a deep woody resinous base...adorable. Apparently it's a copycat of some Hermes fragrance and You might think this genre is over subscribed but the balance and quality of Oajan make it stand out and shine to me. It's great, the bottle looks great too it's very heavy and the cap makes a satisfying chunky "click"...(relish the little things.) Oh and the performance and silage are good too.

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10 years ago

Gucci Gucci Guilty Absolute

Gucci Guilty Absolute

Gucci guilty absolute I nearly didn't bother trying this by default such is the apathy and cynicism I feel for the Gucci Guilty line and by extension Gucci perfumes of the last few years in general. I'm so glad I didn't give in to my gut because... how wrong it was. Gucci guilty Absolute is a triumph and a sign that Gucci are back on form with something truly pushing the boundaries of designer fragrance and not just some generic crap. The opening is pure bandages and antiseptic becoming an ultra dry benzoin type accord, a very dusty, ancient, precious amber type thing. It's more than that though, it's leathery in a truly authentic way but with all the oddity of resins and a smokey earthy patchouli and vetiver. (I do get EN comparisons here) It would more than likely be too strange if not for a lightly fruity note and a touch of sweetness which develops but quickly recedes, drying down to pure leather and an almost soil like patchouli in the drydown. Im shocked at how brilliant this perfume is, because it's all the weirdness of an Indy scent but is somehow wearable enough to appeal to my girlfriend, and that really is praise indeed. The woods in this are exotic and some of the driest I've encountered in designer perfumery. Scratchy vetiver and spiced hard sandalwood minus the creaminess you often get. Although Alberto Morillias is a brilliant guy responsible for some legendary fragrances but I try to never have expectations of a perfumer, especially when they have such a diverse portfolio. In this case though he has created a true gem. Many people enjoyed Gucci pour homme I and its unflinching, spicy, masculinity I think this might signal a return to that sort of thinking in a small way. I could be wrong and it's just a fluke but super enjoyable fluke with pretty decent performance and one I will definitely be adding to my wardrobe. Update: So yeah I bought it on m way home from work last night. I'm not going to be too lavish in it's praise but I stick to what I said above, this is a very strong outing from Gucci. I know what the opening reminds me of and it's the smell of the green liquid my friend uses on customers in his tattoo shop (he calls it "green soap") it's quite astringent and although the Gucci fragrance turns to earthier textures of patchouli and eventually leather, it definitely shares similarities in the beginning. I don't know what it is about me and patchouli? I always used to hate (mainly womens) perfumes that were heavy in patchouli thinking to myself 'why on earth would she want to smell like soil?' but I go through fazes of craving the stuff. Not just the chunky, velvety, chocolate type but the full on hippy variety too and I think this is where Guilty Absolute strikes up a really great happy medium.

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10 years ago

Clive Christian Rock Rose

Clive Christian

I'll likely get slated for giving another CC fragrance, yet another glowing review but it deserves it. Well....'glowing' might be taking it a bit far because taste wise, this is not really my thing. However, in terms of complexity, creativity and sheer quality, I have to doff my cap to Rock rose. If I'm not very much mistaken the resin Labdanum comes from a plant called the rock rose? Well it would appear that there's a type of rose call the rock rose, because the labdanum one doesn't resemble a conventional rose? Anyway I digress, if you're expecting a resin bomb then you'll be out of luck because this is a fresh uplifting scent on the surface but with something slightly more sinister lurking beneath. The opening is very bright with airy citruses and musk but with a very clean and cold feel added to by the breathy, minty vibe. It immediately strikes me as more in the Lyric Man genre of rose fragrance and as it dries down you get a little more dirt from the clary sage and a more floral feel of neroli. It's strange because although very long lasting on my skin it evolved very differently to how it did on the card and sprayed and put in a bag while shopping. Smelling it now I do get much more of a luxurious base from it and yet more confusion of something resembling a deep leathery and resinous feel, but still with all the top notes there, even the mint. I have to say this revelation was far more remarkable than if I'd just worn the fragrance because I didn't notice just what a complex creature Clive Christian Rock rose was. My girlfriend absolutely adored it from the first whiff and she wore it on the same day as me. Frankly if it was hint to get it for valentines day, she can keep wanting for this price. CC fragrances seem to be constantly rising in price, the one I bought a few years ago seems pretty reasonable compared to the hike I've seen since. Anyway...creatively this is a winner for me and something which has to explored and worn several times or you might mistake for something more linear. Great but not exceptional.

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10 years ago

Jo Malone London Myrrh & Tonka

Jo Malone London

I can't help thinking this is Jo Malone's answer to Fevé deliciouese but when I actually got my nose it I realised it isn't a Tonka bean classic. It opens with promise of depth and that almondy, vanilla goodness with sharp, dense, sweet gourmand harmony. I say that but it's a slightly underwhelming opening all the same. I like tonka when it's darker and more bitter, almost coffee like hints but this leans more toward a slightly headache inducing vanilla/resinous powdery accord. Also, this is not very unisex to me an leans toward the feminine, even for a seasoned fragrance lover who will pretty much wear anything. There's not a sign of the myrrh promised as this settles, when I first sniffed the opening I commented to the SA, "huh? This is another Jo Malone, 2 note fragrance that doesn't smell especially of either note." That is pretty much the story here. The opening has something balsamic in there no doubt and it has an amber feel but as it dries down becomes more like a sandalwood and just a tonne of vanilla with some femspicing. This ceases to be a gourmand fragrance very quickly and lacks the foody, natural tones of the Dior. It's maybe the aroma chemicals used to taint this vanilla/tonka accord with something resembling 'Myrrh' but it kinda smells cheap when it's dried down. I don't hate it exactly but I'm not really enjoying it. I kinda think with more elements added and something to make it 'pop' is just sadly lacking here. The very deep dry down after 5 or 6 hours there's a transformation to a more tonka like to tonka bean and a really nice creamy amber skin scent which won me around a bit. This is cause I could smell a little more of the background which is somehow masked by a cleaner vanilla/almond accord throughout but it really wasn't enough to save this one, too little too late. Performance isn't bad and when applied heavily (like I did) it projects quite impressively for the first couple of hours, unfortunately I didn't enjoy it but undoubtedly it was there in a pungent cloud. Not a patch on resent Tonka releases but worth a sniff but completely not to my tastes. Oh and to the person who thinks this smells like Z&V This is Him I can almost get where you are coming from something about myrrh & Tonka, it does give off a sandalwood vibe. However that is where the brief similarities end and Z&V is by far superior to this in terms of smell there's no competition.

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10 years ago

L'Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 10

L'Artisan Parfumeur

Wearing this one today and to my dismay I've not posted a review for it so here goes. To say read the top two notes and say that Mon Numero 10 is a cinnamon and incense affair would be a quick and fair summary I suppose but in no way does it justice. Simple on the surface but wear it for a few hours and the hidden depths become more apparent. There's a leathery, animalic qualities, florals with juxtapositions of clean & dirty, sweet and sour. At first I thought this was quite a modern smelling interpretation of a woody spicy scent but now I'm thinking it's much more classic in it's approach, especially in the drydown. Bertrand Duchaufour has created a balanced unisex piece in Mon Numero 10 I can't fault it. Performance and silage are not massive but perfectly acceptable and if found cheaply is an affordable gem for anyone's collection.

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10 years ago

Ferrari Scuderia Ferrari Racing Red

Scuderia Ferrari Racing Red

I feel I shouldn't be so critical of this because to most people, it's probably perfectly wearable, however I find something about Scuderia to be jarring. I get a positive lemon more than lime and I can see why it might me described at metallic because it's oddly futuristic but I've definitely come across more shiny metallics in my time. I think it's the clary sage and lavender coupled with a vaguely aquatic nature making for a confused if not unique smelling perfume which I didn't find remotely pleasant to wear. I hate to be so reductive as to compare it to cleaning products or what have you but this definitely has shades of a scented baby wipe or something? I also mentioned it was unique, so it's not your average bit of citrus and lavender... so it's an enigma but an enigma I have no interest in unravelling. Lasting power was okay and I have to say the remnant left on my clothes actually smells better the following day but still not enough to win me over. I have tried some other Ferrari fragrances and I must say I was pleasantly surprised but this Racing Red ain't for me.

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10 years ago

Bella Bellissima Noble Incense

Bella Bellissima

I'll keep this brief because Noble Incense needs little introduction or explanation and my constant gushing will have people thinking I'm some kind of shill for Bella Bellissima...well I'm not just a vocal cheerleader. Noble Incense starts out with that oriental, balsamic spice vibe in which you get lightheaded, as if walking into an opium den complete with the punctuating twang of exotic, harp like instruments...well I did anyway. It's got the labdanum and other resins I love a solid woodiness infinitely complex and although a domiinatant note, so much better than the straight forward olibanum other houses seem to churn out. I can get that there's great sandalwood in here and even papyrus than I'm not so keen on usually but frankly this fragrance can't and doesn't put a foot wrong. It lasts ages, projects and is simply briliiant. There you go!

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10 years ago

Bella Bellissima Vetiver Spice

Bella Bellissima

FINALLY!!!! Fragrantica have added the odd few Bella Bellissima fragrances they had missed from the database. Quite simply Vetiver Spice IS the greatest vetiver fragrance I've ever tried. It's a triumph, a complete knockout comprising all the best things about vetiver fragrances and packaging them in a high quality and incredibly long lasting package. The balance of this composition is perfect, opening with citruses, retreating into peppery spices, with clean aromatic cardamom at the back. Even more interest is injected into this one by the hint of absinthe and even a bit of a creamy texture (maybe the vanilla?) The main thing is that the vetiver is truly enhanced, taking centre stage and not being overpowered by interesting surrounding notes. Right into the drydown you get a smooth, slightly smokey woods it's absolutely brilliant! I'm no huge vetiver fan, I like it very much in various guises but wouldn't list it as one of my favourite notes/accords/materials. Please, please believe me if you are a vetiver fan this has to be sampled because I'm sure it will be appreciated by everyone from the grey vetiver lovers to the Encre noire fanatics this has something for everyone and above all quality Vetiver that will last 10-12 hours easy. Sublime, yet more reasons why Bella Bellissima is one of my favourite houses.

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10 years ago

Zara Tobacco Collection Intense Dark Exclusive

Tobacco Collection Intense Dark Exclusive

Okay... so... I went into Zara today to try the new oud perfumes. Unfortunately they didn't have them in my local store, not sure why but I decided to try another one that has been released recently. Seeing that it had tobacco in the title I thought I might discover a deep and relatively cheap fragrance of good quality judging by some of the other Zara scents I've tried. However, this fragrance is not dark or masculine in the slightest! Not necessarily a bad thing though, in fact I quite enjoy the smell...momentarily. It starts out with a very sweet, fruity, thick, syrup type texture, which is more of a gourmand thing than tobacco to me. Although playful does have an air of quality to it and I'm usually a sucker for childish, overly saccahrine scents like this but I need to put my sensible reviewers head on in this case. As it dries down it becomes the most candy, cupcake, vanilla fragrance imaginable and where it starts smelling very much like the strawberry shortcake doll of the 70's 80's. I don't know if anyone remembers those? Yeah so kinda, dolls head plastic and a vanilla... strawberry. This does mellow further becoming less sweet and has some subtle woods creeping in but if you're expecting tobacco prepare to be disappointed. It could be there in the very broadest and vaguest terms perhaps more so in the opening? but I'm totally reaching there because I certainly didn't detect it for sure. I like the smell but is this really a great men's fragrance? Not really. I have to say it projects a lot to begin with and is generally a good performer, worth checking out but something which actually began to become cloying and a bit annoying in the end.

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10 years ago

Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige

Lorenzo Villoresi

Warning: this is technically not a review, but rather a very long love letter/tale/diary page where I reminisce on my ongoing experience with this scent, as well as a high praise to competent, patient, insightful, and knowledgeable sales assistants. Proceed at your own risk. ;)  I happened upon it some years ago, by accident. Picture this: one cool sunny winter late morning in Rome, the air is crisp but the sun has a touch of warmth, we're close to Christmas so decorations and lights are on and the atmosphere is festive. I was walking on a street full of shops when I suddenly marched into an old, slightly upscale, and very well-known perfume shop, went to one of the sales assistant with a request: I told him that I recently tried Prada Infusion d’Iris, liked the cleanliness and soapiness of the scent, but was very let down by the appallingly poor staying power (especially when compared to the price). Would he be able to recommend a similar perfume that wouldn’t be gone after an hour? He asked me a few questions, I mentioned, incidentally, that I tried and liked a lot Bas de Soie by Lutens in the recent past but that was not quite what I had in mind. If by this time you’re thinking how on earth can you go from Infusion d’Iris to Teint de Neige that have almost nothing in common but the iris note I would agree, but bear with me. I cannot praise enough how the sales assistant read me and listened to me, because he not only took in my appearance - brunette, mid-20s, red lipstick, cat eye, minimalist dark clothes, red wool coat - but also saw deeper than that. I have some friends that jokingly call me Diva, which I am anything but by the way, it’s just I am a little aloof when you first meet me but then I warm up. Anyway, he anticipated my needs and introduced me to something I didn’t know I liked myself: powder. I mean, I knew and I even loved the smell of talc powder, ten years before as a teenager I had briefly been obsessed with Bvlgari Petits and Mamans, what I mean is that I was not aware of my love for powdery scents on a conscious level. He said after a while that since I said no to Bas de Soie, which was one of his first choices for me (he definitely picked on the aloofness there), he was going to go on another route. We talked a little and eventually reduced the samples to three: Lutens Daim Blond, Teint de Neige and a third scent that for the life of me I can’t remember. After smelling them on the strips I discarded the forgotten third and spritzed the other two on the skin. At first I liked them both but almost immediately got the apricot in Lutens and I’m not really a fan of fruity perfumes, so that was more and more a no every minute that went by. On the other hand, with Teint de Neige, in addition to being love at first sniff, the infatuation grew with the passing of time. I didn’t buy it that day, the very competent shop assistant advised that I spend the day with it and see how it evolved on my skin. Not only it evolved beautifully, I could still smell it the next day after a shower. I went back a week later and got a bottle. Now it’s become my signature, I wear it almost every day, in winter and also in summer because I don’t believe in the seasonality of scents (sorry not sorry for the people around me), and although I refrain to perfume during daytime in summer it’s not really out of concern for the others, just for fear of the perfume reacting with the light. I am vain and selfish like that! ;)  Sillage and staying power, for me, are huge to the point that the more aware people recognise me by it, like I went to a party at a friend’s house and the hostess, that knows me quite well but didn’t know I had arrived, asked from another room if I was there only because she recognised the trail of perfume in the house. Christmas time a couple of years ago I went back to see my parents and at night, when my mother hugged me at the airport said she missed my perfume (as well as me lol) which I applied in the morning, and then she said she smelled it again the next morning when I walked in the kitchen for breakfast. A lot of people commented on it when I enter a shop or on a train carriage. In conclusion, this perfume now it’s become me, I inhabit it, it’s a million things to me, like lace lingerie under a comfy cashmere jumper, it’s old and new, a silk vintage dress worn with a leather biker jacket. I’m not saying it’s a complex perfume, or a revolutionary concept, I think I feel this way because I identify with it so much by now. And even if I know it’s ridiculous I feel like it’s mine and mine only, also because I’ve never walked past anyone else who wore it. I think I also like it so much because it compensates my aloofness, as if with its powdery sweetness told other people that I’m not the Ice Queen that I might seem at first. Ultimately I think that was my unconscious reason for writing off Bas de Soie from the start, that’s one perfume I like a lot but probably fear it would play too much into my perceived standoffishness. One last thing: yes it’s true, Iris by L’erbolario, which I would have loved to love since Villoresi is not really in my price range, is almost the exact copy, albeit much flatter, but compared side by side with Teint de Neige smells so cheap and chemical and plasticky it literally hurts. Back when I still lived in Italy it was not unusual to walk past women doused in the knockoff, it was very popular for a while but, dear oh dear, the headaches that I got smelling that!

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10 years ago

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de L'Homme Eau Électrique

La Nuit de L'Homme Eau Électrique

Yves Saint Laurent

I agree with BurtReynolds (not a sentence I thought I'd ever say :)) in that I don't understand folk who vote to dislike without having sampled the fragrance. As some point out, the fragrance is made available pre-release to people in the industry but lets face it I doubt they are the ones voting.

Oh I also just wanted to say that although there has undoubtedly been a decline in originality on YSL's main designer lines since the likes of M7 and Rive Gauche, Being part of L'Oreal doesn't make them incapable of making a decent fragrance. Those High end leather & rose ones they've made in recent years (despite being stupidly expensive) were pretty good I thought. People shouldn't cling to the glory days forever and at least try to show a little optimism maybe? It might be good, can't be any worse than that Ultime one. Oh and another thing...folks moaning about 'Yet another L'nuit flanker' I don't get it? L'Nuit doesn't have that many flankers does it? Unless we are counting the L'Homme line as well...then they might have a point. This will be the 4th one... 3rd If you don't count the Parfum which was not great but okay, The Frozen one which I quite liked and the L'Intense which was pretty poor... I'll give you that. L'electrique might just be good...you never know and that's the beauty of being into fragrance...the surprise of having your expectations exceeded.

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10 years ago

Bentley Infinite Eau de Toilette

Infinite Eau de Toilette

The juicy citruses come off in the opening notes as a sharp grapefruit to my nose. Then it's a combination of cedar, and vetiver, pepper which makes for a glorious combination under that citrus. The opening is actually a little reminiscent of a fragrance I acquired a few weeks back, which unfortunately isn't in the Database, Lange Orient Treasure. The thing that sets this apart from Terre d'Hermes although it's very, very similar (especially when dried down) is the hint of florals in the middle of this fragrance. It's a very slight effect and could be due to the violet but is definitely identifiable as geranium, which is actually very in keeping with the overall tone of the Infinite and keeps things masculine. Overall my opinion is that Bentley Infinite a very good citrus vetiver fragrance and when you enter that realm it is hard not to smell like Terre d'Hermes. Even the grapefruit, distinctly different in the opening becomes more like a bitter orange, the florals are not pronounced enough to make a significant difference to this fragrance, especially after the first hour or two. I was encouraged by the SA in the shop to buy the EDP which was not available to sample although she assured me it was 'Stronger and longer lasting' well if my experience with TdH EDP & EDT is anything to go by I'm pretty sure the opposite would be the case. In summary, There's not quite enough here to make me want it due to having TdH but that's not to say everyone will agree. There's flashes of something there...a new kind of masculine twist on the Hermes formula maybe with some tweaks, amp up the pepper, geranium and violet and perhaps we'd have a really good alternative version of TdH but sadly this is just slightly lacking. Still a good fragrance though and pretty decent performance but nothing outstanding.

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10 years ago

Penhaligon's The Tragedy of Lord George

The Tragedy of Lord George

To say I want this perfume more for the bottle than the fragrance itself, might make me appear fickle and diminish the status of what is a very lovely smelling thing. However, we must face facts...the stopper on this bottle is awesome and seeing the bottle in real life is no disappointment, it really is that cool. The fragrance itself displays the typical restraint you get in most Penhaligon's, trading off truly deep opulence with genuinely wearable appeal. They might not always (in fact rarely) reach dizzying heights but they consistently release fragrances I believe to have been steadily crafted and considered, Lord George is no different. It opens with a boozy amber, instantly warm and likable which settles to a exotic wood/vanilla vibe. It's undeniably sweet but offset by it's grown up booziness and some of that bitter, coffee type element from tonka bean. Lord George isn't a full on gourmand such as other recent Tonka releases like Feve delicieuse. Instead it's focused on the woods and amber to give it that more male emphasis. I enjoyed it tremendously, opens great and just gets better in the drydown due to some great notes which complement each other well. Lord George is the definition of more than the sum of it's parts and like the other one's in this range, has some notes or qualities that are hard to place. It is quite long lasting, especially on clothes but nothing monumental and showing the usual lack luster performance of the brand. (although I found it completely acceptable) This is where most people take issue with the brand and if you're forking out this much then you are entitled to moan. However, If you do decide to buy you will be treated to a nice smelling winter fragrance and a wonderful bottle to adorn your perfume shelf. I will probably get this one at some point.

Quick review update here, while backtracking slightly on my initial appraisal, I will both agree and take issue with some of the things said by Nick Zee. I don't know if it's just the fact that I actually like ambroxan but I kinda expect modern compositions to contain it and this didn't immediately scream it to me. However upon wearing it on Christmas day I will concede that the shaving cream element is that soapy, clean, ambery, musk that some people might consider cheap or doesn't belong in a high end fragrance like this one... I don't agree but I notice it more now I've had a few proper wears I think it's unfair to slate the perfumer for this as I still think it's a very interesting composition and worthy of the Penhaligon's name. I also agree that this stuff is overpriced and the performance is a bit lacking. It's strange because I did sample it extensively before I got the full bottle, maybe this one is a little style over substance but I made it clear I was getting it for the bottle mainly, something I never do but this one was too good to miss.

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10 years ago

Zadig & Voltaire This Is Her

Zadig & Voltaire

A perfect compliment to the Men's fragrance but not because it's contrasting but rather, very similar. The approach and base are exactly the same sort of thing...a milky, vanilla/sandalwood which is really very nice, the key differences being this no balsamic or incense notes which are so prevalent in This is Him and has more playful, feminine top notes. Something in here reminds me of a Tokyo Milk scent, slightly floral but generally creamy, I really like the subtlety of this one. It's very understated and lasts longer than you might expect but don't think it's going to project hard, these stay close. I really like it to the point I was trying to encourage my girlfriend to get it to wear in solidarity with mine. Please don't think I'm tight, I would buy it for her but frankly I spoil her as it is and she doesn't appreciate fragrant gifts as much as I would. Oh and they have those gimmicky Armani style bottles (whatever that fragrance was called?) that fit together and look like they are embracing each other. Z&V have two kinda jagged, climbing walls that interlock which is much cooler. I forgot to say that crucially, I would wear this one myself.

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10 years ago

Penhaligon's Much Ado About the Duke

Much Ado About the Duke

Really interesting set of releases from Penhaligon's this one having a similar nature to the feminine focused rose one but in truth I think all four are unisex. This is due to the careful blending of notes in each composition and it's no mistake that Penhaligon's fragrances have this quality across the board, regardless of perfumer. Another thing I've noticed is that all of these four have an explosive opening the Duke being no exception. I really like the smell, it's kinda got a vibe of Dior's sublime Amber nuit about it, a kind of fresh, clean but still warm balsamic rose. The key difference is rather than amber you get pepper, woods, leather coming across but with that quenching vibe of a G&T. This also gives it nods to the Liquides Imaginaires line in that there's a boozy champagne/wine sort of quality to these four creations too. It reminds me of Bloody wood a touch also. The drydown of this is a sensual woody rose which is top quality and although not massive in silage and I thought at first longevity either ...this quietly lasted. I never actually asked how much this was but without hesitation or the usual rigmarole of begging, I was furnished with some samples, Thanks to my local Penhaligon's shop for that. I believe further wears are necessary but I doubt I will be buying for this price. Despite all the positives I see in this fragrance as a novelty stopper or bottle at best but despite the comparisons to great fragrances I own, I think Duke would still have a place because it's refined and different enough in it's own way. The only restriction for me is price and the fact that if I had to own one of these it would be Lord George because of the amazing stag head stopper...The fragrances are both very enjoyable.

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10 years ago

L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

L'Artisan Parfumeur

Tea for Two is one of the more scarce L'Artisan perfumes it seems. Even the most comprehensive stockists seem to be out of this stuff in recent years. I had tried this a long time ago and then got hold of some samples a few months back, which reminded me that T4T was on my radar. I was very surprised to see it in TK Maxx where I picked it up for a very reasonable £25 for 50ml. It's clearly not a fragrance for everybody but as a tea enthusiast I'm always keen to expand my tea fragrances and this one represents a distinct difference from the norm of cutting metallic, freshness coupled with citrus or fruit. This is more like a proper cup of tea with milk in(not too suggest it's creamy in anyway) blended with tobacco it's got a freshness but it has the signature 'challenging', offset, darkness of other releases like Timbuktu or Dzing! It's got the spicing of a chai tea, plenty of cinnamon which is spicy hot but not sweet, and clove representing an old cologne vibe. I'd say that there's vetiver in here and a leathery vibe but sort of clean in a traditional manly way like a knize Ten. To me the drydown is like a very old type of soap that you just don't get anymore and somehow is indicative of the 1960's (not like I was around then!) It's like the kind of toiletries a really, manly man can admit to using. You know...not Dior or Chanel it's the sort of purely functional moisturizer made famous by Icelandic fishermen or something? (So it's totally okay to use and not gay!) Tea for Two is never going to appeal to everyone and I'm almost one of those people, despite buying this fragrance. It does challenge me though and sometimes I enjoy that in a fragrance.

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10 years ago

Cartier L'Envol de Cartier Eau de Parfum

L'Envol de Cartier Eau de Parfum

I'm a bit shocked to discover that this is intended for men. I actually wasn't sure if it was a unisex but I'd figured L'Envol more like a feminine fragrance from the EDP concentration, the overall look of the packaging and the initial smell. I say initial smell, because I began to think it might be a unisex or aimed at men and if it is... wow is this brave and pretty classic, the Shalimar comparisons being very well founded. I think it opens up with a figgy sort of smell (although that could be the wet, earthiness of patchouli), coupled with honey and a floral musk and a civet type element. For the record I'm not a fan of this combination of animal, floral, honied notes most of the time but as a perfume fan I can't help feeling it screams a certain amount of quality. Cartier have made something classical from the last 100 years of (largely feminine) perfumery and squarely aimed it at modern man and they have to kinda be admired for that considering this goes against recent trends but I suppose everything comes in cycles and this sort of thing was perhaps due a renaissance. I mean puritans might say that this IS indeed, modern rubbish and not comparable to the likes of Shalimar but in essence that is what I took from it. The great thing about it too was L'Envol's ability to mellow and grow on me in the dry down, becoming a much warmer and more resinous iris and patchouli skin scent. Just a brief comment on the bottle, I thought it was a little gimmicky at first especially for Cartier but after being initially striking is really quite a thing to behold when you look at it for a minute or so. That design is not really something I've seen although mildly reiniscent of the recent CK release this is a much classier affair. Sadly I don't like enough of this fragrance to wear it but I take my hat off for Cartier reimagining men's fragrance with an interesting release which does eventually enter territory I enjoyed but only after several hours, which I suppose just speaks to the good longevity. I have a feeling this one will have folks divided but please do try because you never know L'Envol might just surprise you.

I dunno what happened here? I must not have given the EDT a fair crack of the whip because I dismissed it as a vaguely honey covered fig, a sort of non event of a fragrance really. Except for the bottle which is truly a unique thing to behold...in a picture. I'm afraid the execution leaves something to be desired, I think it's the plastic outer which I accept has to be made of plastic but just makes it seem a bit cheap and I'm no snob. Anyway this EDP was actually really nice opens kind fresh, floral and not immediately knowable. Then the violet and iris accord grows and it's classy, doesn't quite have the satin, cosmetic feel orris or iris can but hints at it. Couple that with a overt violet note and even a slight petrol tinge...can you see where I'm going with this? There's a classy powdered leather and yes It resembles Fahrenheit. However the sweetness and greek, honied fig and perhaps some vanilla? takes it more into Fahrenheit parfum territory but L'Envol EDP is less heavy and more aerated. I liked it, developed too just becoming a nice warm skin scent. This is better than many designer releases which is kind what Cartier do isn't it? Longevity was acceptable wouldn't call it good.

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10 years ago