One of those fragrances I tried when it first came out and wasn't that impressed by despite being a huge sandalwood fan. I've revisited it and sacred wood is a minimal composition but a 'composition' non the less. You could be forgiven for thinking it's a linear effort... because it is. However, Sandalwood does posses it's own complexity and when done right can be just fine without anything else. Sacred wood does have both the creamy, milky sawdust, wood and the spicy edge but only subtle, this definitely more of a subdued affair. There's a general woodiness too nodding to hints of cypress and cedar, probably hence the Tam Dao and Wonderwood comparisons. There's vague top notes of something more refreshing but they are short lived. So what do we have then? A very nice delicate woody fragrance which is never going to set the world a light. This being said I don't doubt the quality of the sandalwood oil used here is probably very good. I noticed that the opening is more captivating than some, then dies down very quickly offering a shy skin scent, which I don't mind so much but that's not the way you wow me Killian. The point is...I can think of many other sandalwoods I'd rather have than this expensive offering. Smells really nice though so it's worth checking out.
I always give Lacoste fragrances a go but I don't really know why? I mean lets face it, most of them are either horrendous, just cheap or don't perform well...and the majority have all three of these characteristics. I think it's due to my unwavering love of Eau de Lacoste Blanc which I absolutely adore and think is a masterpiece among boring 'fresh' designer scents. So I've been awaiting this Yellow one (and the purple one which hasn't dropped yet)and it really didn't disappoint. I'm not sure whether I'm loosing my mind but this is actually really nice. It's got that average designer citrus opening but then no saltiness, no horrid calone note, no cloying sweetness or annoying bandwagon notes like tonka bean... Pretty much no 'fakery' (rather than synthetic...ness) at all! It's remarkable it just seems like a pleasant smelling summery fresh fragrance to me. Maybe a little base of woods and hint of pink pepper and ginger but nothing overt. I could've sworn I got a hint of floral maybe ylang or tuberose from my beloved blanc, it definitely shares a pinch of the soothing ice lolly quality. I only tried it once on the back of my hand so I will have to return to it but all in all I'd say not a bad job by Lacoste. Minor criticism still wasn't good in the longevity department.
Well I'd seen that this was coming out a while back but remembered nothing about the notes when I finally came across it. I was happy when I checked here after sampling and everything I could smell (and more) was listed here. Sometimes fragrance notes can be difficult to discern beyond the obvious few so I'm glad Dunhill have been able to convey them clearly in this new release. That message is one of masculinity from the get go a strong peppery bang of spice in the opening which subsides fairly quickly to reveal a dry juniper and soapy cardamom. There's definitely iris in there and lavender too but less so. There's a herbal sage element and then a base of vetiver and woods also the classic spicy feel does point toward oakmoss without really smelling like it...if that makes sense? Although it doesn't smell like them at all really (except for a woody/lavender/cedar vibe perhaps?) I was reminded of something like a cool water or Green Irish tweed sort All together you get a pretty good men's fragrance, unremarkable to me but I'm glad to see something on the market that isn't the same old boring aroma chemical fakery and actually smells like a composition with some focus. Icon isn't really attempting to appeal to the masses and I suspect the Dunhill brand appeals to a slightly older crowd, and definitely so with this release. A customer next to me at the counter was dousing himself in it and proclaiming "oooh...this is real man's stuff...No messing about with this." Although I concurred to an extent, I couldn't help but notice the Sales assistant ladies looking a bit awkward as if this guy was being a little over familiar with them, calling them "sweetheart" etc... when he was about 30 and she was clearly in her 50's. He seemed like the sort who just wanted to make idle small talk for the sake of it...I don't think he bought anything either. Just interesting to get another male perspective by witnessing the first impressions of a stranger. Yeah so...anyway... longevity and projection is alright it's a fairly subtle scent after a turbulent, peppery opening. I liked the drydown and maybe after a few more tries it may grow on me. One this is for sure the bottle is superb and very satisfying to hold. That fact alone will attract the macho men's men who like the idea of something which resembles the gear stick of a luxury sports car.
I couldn't wait to get my hands on this fragrance unfortunately I didn't get it before release as I had missed the voice mail from my Mugler friend who was going to leak me some slightly early. (for the UK) Anyhow...It's landed in stores now, I knew exactly what to expect from this and it delivered. The top notes are juicy and sweet with blood orange and even pineapple (my sister got in my car and said "It smells of pineapple in here") then the base is classic patchouli and vanilla creamy sweetness but with a strength and undeniable Mugler DNA. Having said that it wouldn't surprise me in the slightest if AMen haters could be a fan of this. The base has distinctly more vanilla than most AMen flankers, well it certainly seems that way in any case. I ran the full gamete of emotions with this scent from liking the obvious top notes I'd expected, to absolutely loving Ultra zest and dreaming up gushing reviews to post here, then to the realization that I'd spoken (thought) too soon and that Ultra Zest is actually a mediocre affair, perhaps even a disappointing flanker. The truth is after several wears now that not only does this fit a much needed niche of fresh orientals, versatile enough to wear on a hot day but also still cozy and warming. Ultra Zest's citrus top notes are lasting, this is an important quality for me. I'm not someone who is obsessed with other peoples comments on my fragrance choice but having worn it 3 times over the Easter weekend I received an unprecedented amount of compliments. Seriously, even from strangers in the local shop, friends and family and perhaps the biggest praise imaginable from my mum. (who is very hard to please at the best of times...in EVERY regard.) The base dries down very soft and inoffensive but still with hints of zesty orange, it's great. I've toned down my review now to reflect what this fragrance is...a good wearable fragrance and welcome addition to the Mugler collection with good performance.
Here's what happens with Venti. Top notes (first minute or so) wonderful but also a little 'home' fragrance for me. Then it settles and the florals get dank and pretty awful on my skin becoming almost a scrubber. Venti just about retains enough interest and beauty to give the drydown a chance and when settled, although still with elements of both...basically...good - bad + okay = Okay. That opening does have a nice mandarin, peach and blossom feel but is then ruined with strongly concentrated jasmine and tuberose, which once past a mere whiff because musky and bitter on my skin. It's complex green but warm at the same time. There's a salty sweetness in the base which is kinda seaside like and could well be ambergris, and a hint of patchouli might account for some of the dirt. I actually get the non existant to begin with geranuim and vetiver with a hint of vanilla as it dries down. Just not a combination of notes I can get excited about really! For me it's a strong brew which doesn't appeal to me for wearing but is definitely not boring and the concentration is banging projection is pretty heavy and longevity was good.
This is an incredibly sexy fragrance. Very feminine to me but not beyond the realms of experimentation, after all I did wear it and thoroughly enjoy it too. The sweet opening lasts for ages and it's a warm floral musk with tons of powdery amber which at first is just too feminine, to ever consider for me regardless how nice I think it is. As it dries down though (after several hours)the benzoin and vanilla kicks a little more in the base and it becomes more appealing wearing and less loudly girly. It evokes pink to me...but a sexy hot pink perhaps? Seriously if my girlfriend took to wearing this I would be compelled to ravish her. It is literally amber and musk but amazing how different it is to other amber scents (I have tried)and that's a good achievement. It's strong too last ages and projects very heavily.
I'd seen this popping up all over the place and getting a good write up. Also I dig the kinda artisan look of the bottles and the cut n paste artwork on the label. Anyway the scents themselves have been a bit of a disappointment so far but loaded with imagination and creativity. What puts me off is the hippy, dirtyish base they seem to possess, that's three of them now with what I describe as the 'sugar paper' note, very woody and with a hint of patchouli dirt and deep resin, seems to be a theme in Cobra/Canary and City on fire. This is undoubtedly my favourite of the ones I've tried so far though. This should be a big favourite with me judging by the notes This juice has an uncompromising tar like guaiac wood dominance which is evident immediately. I kinda don't like the opening... I got a dark chocolate with jelly sweets vibe when first sprayed the kind of polar opposite juxtaposition which instantly reminds me of some 4160 Tuesdays creations. I think the vanilla is playing tricks in the opening sweetening up the resin in an other wise smokey and uber woody affair. A stonking resinous, medicinal, myrrh note is there throughout but works well with the gritty, wet clay feel and ambrette. Drydown is lovely, long and actually projects in a mellow way, I just can't help but love guaiac wood, benzoin, myrrh and vanilla in combination it's right up my street. I will say one minor criticism, I don't think Memoirs of a Trespasser is very refined composition wise and there's many more scents I would rather purchase before it...but it's pretty nice and at least it isn't boring, worth checking out for sure.
Unsurprisingly I've never smelled anything like this in my life! The opening is a pungent and overwhelming, sweet yet savory, gourmand smell of barbeque sauce, mollasus, chipotle chili and pork. It specifically has a pork BBQ vibe to it like this bacon infused hot sauce I have at home. It does on the one hand perfectly evoke a summer barbeque but then later a cold, misty, 5th of November night on the other. The foody bit doesn't last all that long which is kinda a shame but also quite welcome, I mean as much as I love BBQ sauce I'm not sure I want to smell like it. The main body of City on fire....well its smoky of course and what starts out as smokehouse hickory wood chips turns to a more resinous tar like smoke. There's labdanum in here which smooths it out a bit. Then city on fire becomes a bonefide perfume totally worthy of more note than the inital quirkiness would have you believe. I really like it and this is from somebody who tried Jeke for the first time in the same week, I've got to say I think I prefer this? Jeke is quite different and much more intensive but City on Fire is extremely pleasant and wearable when it's dried down. Not massive performance wise but still good and surprising considering how strong and smokey it goes on. The drydown is that long drawn out 'papery' wood pulp thing that I often describe and was the same with the Cobra and Canary one.
Wow! I got this fragrance instantly and that's saying something because it goes on a distinctive journey. Opens with lavender and lemon with a soapy spice of cardamom which remains but settles back after a minute or so. Then waves of boozy coconut, nutmeg and black pepper. Then the kick of the spicy woods in the base with some olibanum in there...it's awesome! 'Sandalwood done right.'... is my opinion on this, it's just a masterful composition which clicks with me. I have to say it's instantly similar to Gucci Envy, a scent I sorely miss but Floris Santal might just be even better. It's not strong and performance is pretty average but I can live with that. It seems a little classier and more refined to my nose but I'm going off memory as I haven't smelled Envy in years now. I certainly wouldn't pay Ebay prices for a bottle these days, just get this. I'm getting this, no doubt about it.
My very first Olfattivo and I thought I'd go for the more masculine sounding of the samples I received. Cozumel opens well enough with a tiny hint of citrus and clary sage but is quickly populated by a dominant sandalwood. It comes over a bit like a milky, herbal brew which sweetens with tonka bean...It's wearable and everything but doesn't excite me strange really because I like sandalwood a lot. I think it's too subtle and not spicy enough nor does it have good enough notes surrounding it to bring out the creaminess. The drydown is very descrete and hints at getting a little bit dirtier but is still just quite pleasant. Not all that sure what to make of this? It definitely smells like some other scents I've tried so doesn't score well on originality either. Don't get me wrong though, it's a like not a love and performance was okay although it sits very close very quick.
A brilliantly blended citrus aromatic from a true pedigree perfume maker. The blend is perfect for me, Special 127 is a realistic, juicy, citrus which isn't too sharp, petitgrain and a hint of lavender. There's a white/yellow floral hint in there from ylang and neroli which adds a bit of body without being dominant and a hint of musk. This is a perfectly balanced classic cologne (well EDT) fragrance which is light and effervesant. I can't really speak to performance because I hardly applied any and it lasted about as well as I'd expected...by that I mean...not very. I'd say it's average juice but the citrus lasts quite well not just as top notes and changes on my skin. Floris make some good fragrances and the price is very reasonable, I'd recommend 127...it's nice.
I usually concur with Originaldeftom's reviews (from memory) but I have to say I had quite a nice experience with this. Now I've tried nearly all of this range in store at some time or another over the past few years and only the amber one stuck in my head. Now I have samples of the main ones I wanted to revisit and although this fragrance is named 'cuir' I take that with a soupcon of sodium chloride these days. The opening to me was sweet and flowery, a kind of raspberry amber and immediately crying niche and feminine. Then a light suede develops and that sweet jammy smell like a mixture of jasmine and rose (although not listed and probably not in here!)or something? The floral I can definitely smell is iris giving a woody powder. Although not prominent I've no doubt saffron is in here too because Cuir blanc has a soft, earthy cream to it. If you take nothing else away from reading this review the main thing I want to say is... CUIR BLANC DOES HAVE A BASE IN LEATHER. IT'S A SOFTER SWEETER AND MORE FEMININE VERSION OF TUSCAN LEATHER. However it doesn't have the lasting power or depth of the Tom Ford, only baring a passing resemblance and does have some lighter top notes. The performance was okay and I actually really liked it, despite being what I perceive as more feminine leaning.
A fragrance without balance is no fragrance in my book and Bull's blood does a very good balancing act. I deliberately try not to read too many reviews before I try a fragrance for the first time. This one kept it's allure (except for a few mentions in the Cobra/canary reviews.)until I eventually did wear it, I honestly didn't know what to expect. I think the 'skankiness' is overstated but definitely present in the first couple of hours anyway. Opening is bright and metallic at first but dirty at the same time and quickly Rose and costus are dominant. The rose becomes full bodied, deep and darkly sweet but offset with something slightly unpleasant. It is a barnyard type fecal note but nothing too bad. Reminds me of the slightly manure like smell you get with a nice cuban cigar...so tobacco although not obvious might just be in here? Perhaps a rose that's been fertilized with Bull's shit (not lies) rather than Bull's blood? You know what though? I'm actually not complaining because it offers up a very interesting nasal conundrum...do I like this or not? Well I think it's very clever and captures what I think Josh Meyers intended. So if you are a lover of impassioned, animal or rose fragrances this will be right up your street. I would draw a parallel with my love of red wine. I was always somebody who enjoyed the mid bodied, fruity wines and saw nothing wrong with a nice Merlot or cabernet sauvignon. As your tastes develop though you start to enjoy more full bodied affairs like Spanish Rioja. It's much the same with fragrance. Bloods blood is quite brave but not too carried away, it's refined enough to appeal to a wider range of people than you might first expect. The opening is okay but I'm not the biggest rose guy at the best of times and although I find it interesting I wouldn't wear it. However, I will say of the deep drydown (after 8 hours or so) that it is one of the most beautiful skin scents you could imagine. This is much like Montale aouds the strong rose and oud takes hours to become a lovely creamy remnant. I think it must be the patchouli/rose and musk which remains with none of that unpleasantness. Bulls blood is worth checking out.
Personally I can smell the quality divide between bois secret and Givenchy Pi...but for that it is very similar as it dries down. I like Pi and wear it often at night unfortunately it has a odd bitter edge to it which cheapens what is a lovely creamy sweet fragrance this fortunately doesn't have quite have that. The opening is different smelling more like a spicy sandalwood and nutmeg but then getting sweeter and sweeter which killed the initial interest in minutes. The Tonka beans in here, essentially smell like an almond/vanilla coming across too sweet and perhaps not to everyone's taste. I certainly don't find this to be a masculine flavour except for sitting on a woody base, and was surprised to see it classified as such. I wouldn't wear this fragrance but if you like this sort of thing and are prepared to pay for it this Evody is a more refined and slightly longer lasting Pi. Not for me.
This is the first fragrance I've tried from Imaginary authors and I have some preconceived ideas about what I'm going to get from them. Well TC&TC confirms them. Imediately I'm reminded of the strange but uniquely interesting fragrances from 4160 Tuesdays. I think it's the hippified 'hay' note in here but it makes me think of brown envelopes or that rough sugar paper you used to get as a kid in school. Coupled with that is top notes of sharp lemon and a smokey approximation of leather and woods. It seems like a balance is struck between them as it dries down but certainly not in the opening, that just serves to have gut punch impact. This gets better as it dries down to be fair, the lemon is less sharp the hay settles to a woody skin scent a bit like vetiver with hints of patchouli and tobacco (well more like ashtray) gently smoky and tar like. Personally I don't like it and can't really understand a desire to smell like this but... is it 'bad'? Well, not really. It's kinda okay and a odder composition just made for the sake of it. I look forward to trespasser and bulls blood.
Loved this fragrance. Right from the off it's a fruity floral musk of the highest quality. Hints of sweet jasmine and iris with the greener more floral quality of hyacinth but never dominant. However the main theme I get is more fruits, pineapple, musk and later woods. The base is warmer with hints of amber and the patchouli coming on stronger in the drydown. This is a perfect summer scent and I'm surprised it's 'for women' because very much appeals to me. Not bad performance too for this kind of scent. Accento is good stuff from Xerjoff and quite different to the others of theirs I've sampled. Also I'm a sucker for the ridiculously opulent purple velvet flacon and heavy gold Xerjoff stopper. A good effort.
I've been waiting to try Jeke for a long time now...too long! I honestly thought I was being conspired against, first of all it was difficult to find a sample (would be the only slumberhouse out of stock) and when I did eventually order a sample from Luckyscent they missed it off my order! (not that I'm dissing Luckyscent they provide an excellent service the majority of the time.) I thought I was destined to never try this one but I managed to get a sample over the weekend and wow! Wow...in a bad way (to begin with) the opening is atomic!!!! The juice stains your skin with a hefty, smokey onslaught of bangin' resins, the darkest patchouli and forest smoke. It's very nearly too much even for me and I was anticipating Jeke as being a holy grail of sorts. It kinda reminds me of both le labo Oud and Patchouli fragrances, (both of which I don't like) so oily smokey and dark. Then it settles down and becomes nicer. Then Jeke dries down properly and becomes a real "wow!" fragrance. This is what I was looking for from the notes. What I love is the benzoin and labdanum so sharp but smooth at the same time and this is a premium quality example of that. Really settled in now and the benzoin is like a dusty library book amber but without any softness of vanilla, just raw and unadulterated. The smokiness remains but subdues very nicely into a kind of pipe tobacco and patchouli, it's as thick and dense as you could possibly imagine but sits quite close to the skin, other than occasional wafting reminders. Conclusions are that I do in fact think Jeke is a superb fragrance and not totally unexpected but still not quite worth adding to my collection. I have to say I prefer the pine smoke of Norne and that's odd because I'm a total resin fanatic. If Slumberhouse's trick (or niche) is smokey, dark, unusual or uncompromising fragrances which it undoubtedly is, then I'm more than happy with that effect I get from Norne.
Woah! What to say of this? A new exclusive house from the UK and worth a sniff let me tell you because Electimuss have some tricks up their sleeve with this range. I'm due to get a sample of this in the post imminently but have tried in store and was compelled to write a review. If you like incense and freakishly strong industrial solvent type smells then the opening of this will knock your socks off! I was quite taken aback by it, I think this is due to the extrait concentration but even still Incitatus feels like its so concentrated it might eat into your skin, like strong acid. The opening is the sharpest imaginable citrus and frankincense bubbly and effervescent but you know has a serious base behind and even hints of smoke. The bay note is quite prominent too but then as it starts to settle becomes a lot more manageable, revealing a leather (type) accord and more synthetic, nostril burning resinous fun. For the first ten minutes it's a bit like like sniffing a permanent marker or something? You know it's probably not good for you and it's getting you slightly high but you do it anyway. Atomic longevity and just gets better as it dries down revealing more ambery qualities of oppononax but never soft. If you don't like your resin medicinal then this is perhaps not the scent for you but Incitatus also has unmistakable fresh qualities for the frankincense devotee too. Very special fragrance and unlike anything I've come across before on my travels...do give it a chance to charm you after that whirlwind opening.
Generally impressive, Micallef as a house have been on my radar for sometime now and I managed to get my hands on a comprehensive set of samples. This one had been recommended by a fellow fragrantican who afterwards proceeded to send me, foul and abusive messages direct to my email when I didn't respond quickly enough for his liking. This psycho behavior aside and although perhaps slightly tainting the scent before I'd even tried it. Thankfully, Emir's reputation proceeded it and I was actually really looking forward to trying it. This is a fairly dark, herbal, oud scent but I just wasn't inspired by the composition. The opening is a peppery orange, which retreats into a woody, dirt of patch and woods. It's not bad, not bad at all and certainly quality juice but left me very nonplussed. My reaction was muted when I was expecting to be blown away. Maybe I'm not getting it? but I desperately want to geranium, oud, pepper and patchouli sounds great but didn't translate for me on first inspection. Longevity was excellent and the more it dried down the better it got...one to revisit in a few months I think?
Undoubtably a spice lovers fragrance. This is briming with spices from the opening to its last breath. The opening to my nose is a bizarre combo of sharp citrus, petitgrain, incense resins Peru balsam, olibanum and thick green notes almost to the point of patchouli and a TONNE of mint. The settling transition is so interesting as it gets drier and more peppery then reveals unmistakable pepper, aniseed and the main player in my opinion cloves. It's a very traditional scent to me, quite bold and almost medicinal in its approach. It's something I'd imagine a rich Parisian putting on a handkerchief and using it to block out the stench of the streets. It mellows slightly and the base seems resinous and call me crazy but when it sits very close smells a bit like cola. All in all...spicy, incense like...very interesting opening that second by second I could pinpoint all the notes I mentioned but it's over to soon and then the fragrance is dominated by those strong cooking spices. Good longevity but surprisingly subdued after no time at all.
Oh Regarding the hanky comment I didn't feel it necessary to specify 'like a couple of hundred years ago' I thought that was obvious.
Great use of Wikipedia but I think you're being a little pedantic about this. I don't wish to perpetuate any myths about the French. The facts are that big cities smell bad even today and I wasn't aiming criticism specifically at Parisians.(or any criticism actually?) I used it as an example because the city of Paris is undoubtedly the apotheosis of Perfume. Now lets not clog up the reviews section with this kind of beef...save it for the forum.
For me this fragrance is a fairly late discovery and had my habit of lovely, warm, sweet orientals not been on a bit of a hiatus at the minute I would of no doubt purchased it. (That being said I did get Oajan) The reason being it opens like something vaguely familiar but in no way a doppelganger of anything. Spicebomb? nah not really...it's a sweet spicy fragrance with a heart of tobacco and vanilla. Ah ha so it's Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille then? Well no actually it isn't. It's more mellow and refined, and to my nose smells much better than the sledgehammer that is TV. I judge it on how quickly I perceive a similarity and if it takes several hours then it can't be that noteworthy. The opening is more like incense, labdanum and soft spices of cinnamon and cloves to he point it smells quite different to how it eventually ends up. I have to admit the dry down becomes more vanilla like and soft tobacco and vaguely reminiscent of TV, but I like the Tom Ford once it's dried right down but with this you get that effect and more for a lot longer. I'm not talking longevity terms because I found it very good but average for a strong niche brand. Herod is more edible and the vanilla is sweeter, custard like and all together more playful. The spicing is subdued but quality and lasts throughout the life of the scent...truth is I vastly prefer this to tobacco vanille and would happily swap it for a bottle of Herod any day.
I haven't done a gushing review for a while so it's long over due but this is a sublime fragrance. I haven't had the pleasure of seeing the MDCI bottles complete with their bust stoppers in the flesh before. I'd always got little sample vial of the ones I've tried so far so actually spraying one from the bottle was nice. I'd avoided this one for testing purposes due to the name 'Chypre' not that I have anything against that classification but I've far more olfactory priorities like 'orientals' 'balsamics' etc... Woah was I wrong? This is a masterpiece from Duchaufour opens with a wonderful warm but sharp floral, balsamic, slightly green aroma which then gets sweeter and is joined by a sweetness of vanilla and animal notes of musk. It's an absolute knockout! The drydown has a lovely quality of resin with my favourite labdanum in there and a complex woody floral base. I Can't really say much about the composition because it is so complex that it becomes simplistic and all I would say is try it for yourself. I had almost written of MDCI as a niche house which under delivered, although I like Invasion barbare and adored Cuir Garamande I couldn't justify the price. This one however is magic! I'm mystified as to why I didn't buy it? I think I was so stunned and over whelmed by it and it wasn't until I let it drydown and release more secrets hours later when I got home that I was fully convinced.
I've sampled a few times now and gushed out a review (see below) already so I'll keep this short. I got another sample to make sure that I'm definitely in love with this fragrance as its a big commitment (because you've got to get the bust one) from a financial point of view. Anyway, I neglected to mention how much of that clementine note comes through in the opening its splendid, then the Labdanum and an almost ginger beer sharpness and fullness of tolu balm/benzoin and styrax. This fragrance is a knockout...so so good.
Noooooo! Say it ain't so emjayen84??? I've delayed buying it for too long and it's been reformulated. I'll have to try it again and see if what it has lost.
I blind bought the modern version of this, I'm not familiar with the original and can't comment of the mossiness or lack thereof. I will say this though it's satisfied my recent desire to put some masculine powerhouses back in my wardrobe, as I realised this was an area I'm sadly lacking. Sure I've own polo/kouros/pacorabanne etc...in the past but I was hoping this might be a bit like VC&A Tsar or something but it isn't really. Neither is it like Azzuro pour homme or Quorum which was a relief. I find it softer and more manageable than any of the aforementioned fragrances but don't be fooled this is no slouch and I think can still quite easily be referred to as a powerhouse. I'd say it's a sharp and pungent opening of lemon and aldehydes which settles to fern and pine with a heart of spiced powdery geranium and carnation, not too musky but with facets of oakmoss and animal qualities. I like the way it dries down too, changing all the while and settling (after several hours) to a quiet skin scent. For me this is a good example of the aromatic fougere and more wearable and toned down than it's counterparts. Good longevity too even from this new formula, so all in all a pretty good blind buy.
I'm having a YSL reformulation appreciation week and Rive Gauche is a fragrance which I've always had love for. It is quite simply one of the greatest aromatic/fougere fragrances ever created, and I don't say that lightly. My only minor criticism of the original formula was the oakmoss coming on a little strong when first applied. However, there's no such problem here with the modern version as you'd expect but this does make it somehow a paler brew, longevity is definitely effected. Other than that, this is every bit as good in terms of the soft lavender, powdery geranium and woods with a hint of star anise it's pretty special stuff. Progressing well you get a few stages as it dries down revealing some hidden depth, problem is the few times I tried it I found the longevity okay but certainly and notably not as good as the original. Still brilliant and well worth getting if you want to glimpse the spirit of the original. I'm in the market for Rive Gauche (Intense/Extreme?) partly because I've never tried it and I think a spicier hit would be welcome.
