Really interesting set of releases from Penhaligon's this one having a similar nature to the feminine focused rose one but in truth I think all four are unisex. This is due to the careful blending of notes in each composition and it's no mistake that Penhaligon's fragrances have this quality across the board, regardless of perfumer. Another thing I've noticed is that all of these four have an explosive opening the Duke being no exception. I really like the smell, it's kinda got a vibe of Dior's sublime Amber nuit about it, a kind of fresh, clean but still warm balsamic rose. The key difference is rather than amber you get pepper, woods, leather coming across but with that quenching vibe of a G&T. This also gives it nods to the Liquides Imaginaires line in that there's a boozy champagne/wine sort of quality to these four creations too. It reminds me of Bloody wood a touch also. The drydown of this is a sensual woody rose which is top quality and although not massive in silage and I thought at first longevity either ...this quietly lasted. I never actually asked how much this was but without hesitation or the usual rigmarole of begging, I was furnished with some samples, Thanks to my local Penhaligon's shop for that. I believe further wears are necessary but I doubt I will be buying for this price. Despite all the positives I see in this fragrance as a novelty stopper or bottle at best but despite the comparisons to great fragrances I own, I think Duke would still have a place because it's refined and different enough in it's own way. The only restriction for me is price and the fact that if I had to own one of these it would be Lord George because of the amazing stag head stopper...The fragrances are both very enjoyable.
I've wanted to review Angel for some time, but the thing is it never was a real love, or even like. I've had samples through the years, some I still have, and I've witnessed the launch. I remember smelling it and thinking "this is weird" or "this smells like chocolate" as a kid, and I've also witnessed Angel change, just as much as I did. It is definitely not the Angel of 1992. As extreme and avant garde it was when it came out, so was the love or hate for it. I feel is the most polarizing fragrance ever created in its ability to convey utter love or repulse. I've never been on one side, just slightly uncomfortable wearing it, but never repulsed when the mood for it came. Wearing my 2 year old bottle, and a decade old sample, the first thing I notice is the absence of the hard hitting medicinal patchouli in my recent formulation. Angel of yore was as much patchouli as cotton candy, melon and chocolate. Patchouli so dark it could pass of as chocolate, drizzled with honey, a fruit salad, and cotton candy from the town fair. Extremely strong, most times pungent, and definitely mood driven; just the slightest hint of it on the wrong moment and your day could be ruined. Wearing Angel was a day long compromise. And wearing samples along the years, samples which were easily and freely given, I saw different facets, slight changes, and how that town fair went from night to day. Buying the current Angel, was mainly because 1) it's a piece of perfumery art, 2) the large rising star bottle is gorgeous and 3) I feel it has lost its extreme personality disorder. While I never enjoy reforms and try to find everything in its most vintage formula, Angel is one I couldn't do back then, nor could I now if it hadn't changed, to me for the better. Angel is Angel. There's no mistaking it, for better or for worse. It hasn't lost its identity, but it isn't so extreme. The patchouli still feels medicinal and rough, but not in so much volume. The fruits are no longer rotting, they feel like a preserve, and the honey along the candy floss have increased as to cover any unwanted smells. The chocolate facet is still pronounced, but it's now sweeter as well, as opposed to the dark chocolate of the past, and the whole thing feels smoother and less air sucking. I find that Angel has retained its power and sillage quite well. Where you needed a single spritz or less 20 years ago, now 2 have you covered for the day or night. The lack of extreme opposites that was in the original star bottle makes it far more wearable in all its weirdness and glory. It seems that the 'Carnaval Diabolique' mr. Mugler wanted to convey has finished; it is now morning in that same fair and you smell the remains of last nights performance. There's is also some coffee brewing somewhere in the premises, which you catch glimpses of, along the popcorn smell that was served last night. So yes, polarizing as it may be, Angel is a landmark of imagination and faith. Mugler along Clarins and Vera Strubi went all the way, believing in, and supporting Angel until it became the hit it is. Or was. And that deserves credit. It started the whole craze for gourmands and sweet edible notes, but Angel was never simple, boring or predictable. It was and still is unique, and the father and mother of the fruitchoulis that flood the market today. I might never be ready to experience the 1992 Angel again, but what's out there today it is still Angel, and when the mood strikes there's nothing like it. Edit: Finding a bottle from the first years of release, now I appreciate it more than ever. Vintage Angel is smoother, rounder, better and next to the current, it’s the best of the two. The newer ones now seem shrill, cheap, following trends instead of setting them. Only vintage for me!
Aramis still packs a punch, and it's better than current Azuree. And Cabochard, which I own in semi modern edt (2009) and enjoy for its smoky leather. Aramis on my skin feels like a richer Cabochard. There's still some oakmoss and along with the leather and the slight herbal touch, it feels like a proper Chypre, or at least what can be done with what's available today. I don't understand though why some Lauder's fare better than others; They share the same chypre base (Knowing, Aromatics...) but some are simply off. Aramis on the other hand, just like the 2 mentioned above is still in excellent shape, dashing on a man and dead sexy on a woman, with a leathery drydown that's wonderful. No excess florals, no frills. Just a serious mossy woody fragrance, powdery and aldehydic in the opening, green and leathery in the heart and drydown. Along the way, some powdery orris, and a bit of jasmine to round things off. If you lament how different is today's Cabochard, Aramis feels midway between the leathers of the past and Bandit (still excellent btw) minus the animalics. Good longevity and sillage, and perfect for autumn. Next time you're at the Lauder counter, give it a try!
Aramis, for me, is one of the best classic leather fragrances. Up there with Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, one of the best male fragrances, and if I add Kouros, Antaeus and Guerlain Vetiver, the top 5 that I would never be without. Vintage late 70’s EdC review, 240ml splash. The similarities to Cabochard are obvious from the start, as to Azurée, both Bernard Chant creations. But Aramis, in all its macho glory, infuses the leather, the castoreum, the ashy tobacco and the overall testosterone with vivid floral notes; a beautiful jasmine, a languid gardenia, and creates a stunner. The artemisia, with its bitter and astringent scent, opens the fragrance, with the jolt of aldehydes. Some herbal notes, and the sparkling green and already leather tinged opening sings. What brings it so close to Cabochard is the smooth powdery feel. The heart of both showcases the leather in a raw rendition; dark green, brown, isobutyl quinolene heavy, with facets of raw meat and tanneries. And in this melange, there’s a subtle powdery smoothness, which I’m guessing is iris with orris butter, some rose, and maybe some narcissus with its animalic tonality. It’s powdery and sweet leather, like the finest soap lather. But Aramis shifts a bit more towards the drydown. The oakmoss and patchouli start getting more noticeable, it becomes woodier, and the resins and animalic notes become stronger and more sensual. At this point, smelling it on the right person, it’s sex in a bottle. Most people have smelled Aramis at least once. Or something very similar, a genre that had its heyday in the 50’s and 60’s. It’s not a “new” smell, so it’s easy to become familiar with it. You wore it, your dad wore it, a friend, a teacher…we all know someone that is Aramis and someone who pretends to be Aramis. Catch my drift? Aramis doesn’t pretend to be someone. Aramis it’s a stunning leather, that while all macho in its campaigns and visuals, it also has room for the gentle and romantic man. Given the similarities to Cabochard, marketed towards women, as Azurée, it’s clear that for perfumers, perfume has no gender. A formula, twisted and modified, revealing different sides to fit the gender that marketing executives deem right. Bullshit! Bernard Chant flipped them the middle finger (Aramis/Azurée, Cinnabar/J.H.L, Aromatics Elixir/Aramis 900…) and gave us basically the same perfume in a different bottle. I’m sure he and Estée had a blast! Anyone who enjoys vintage leathers and chypres ought to try Aramis. And smell the magic themselves! Or Cabochard! Or Azurée! Just pick the formula that reveals ‘that’ side of you! Wonderful undulating sillage with above average longevity!!
Tea for Two is one of the more scarce L'Artisan perfumes it seems. Even the most comprehensive stockists seem to be out of this stuff in recent years. I had tried this a long time ago and then got hold of some samples a few months back, which reminded me that T4T was on my radar. I was very surprised to see it in TK Maxx where I picked it up for a very reasonable £25 for 50ml. It's clearly not a fragrance for everybody but as a tea enthusiast I'm always keen to expand my tea fragrances and this one represents a distinct difference from the norm of cutting metallic, freshness coupled with citrus or fruit. This is more like a proper cup of tea with milk in(not too suggest it's creamy in anyway) blended with tobacco it's got a freshness but it has the signature 'challenging', offset, darkness of other releases like Timbuktu or Dzing! It's got the spicing of a chai tea, plenty of cinnamon which is spicy hot but not sweet, and clove representing an old cologne vibe. I'd say that there's vetiver in here and a leathery vibe but sort of clean in a traditional manly way like a knize Ten. To me the drydown is like a very old type of soap that you just don't get anymore and somehow is indicative of the 1960's (not like I was around then!) It's like the kind of toiletries a really, manly man can admit to using. You know...not Dior or Chanel it's the sort of purely functional moisturizer made famous by Icelandic fishermen or something? (So it's totally okay to use and not gay!) Tea for Two is never going to appeal to everyone and I'm almost one of those people, despite buying this fragrance. It does challenge me though and sometimes I enjoy that in a fragrance.
I'm a bit shocked to discover that this is intended for men. I actually wasn't sure if it was a unisex but I'd figured L'Envol more like a feminine fragrance from the EDP concentration, the overall look of the packaging and the initial smell. I say initial smell, because I began to think it might be a unisex or aimed at men and if it is... wow is this brave and pretty classic, the Shalimar comparisons being very well founded. I think it opens up with a figgy sort of smell (although that could be the wet, earthiness of patchouli), coupled with honey and a floral musk and a civet type element. For the record I'm not a fan of this combination of animal, floral, honied notes most of the time but as a perfume fan I can't help feeling it screams a certain amount of quality. Cartier have made something classical from the last 100 years of (largely feminine) perfumery and squarely aimed it at modern man and they have to kinda be admired for that considering this goes against recent trends but I suppose everything comes in cycles and this sort of thing was perhaps due a renaissance. I mean puritans might say that this IS indeed, modern rubbish and not comparable to the likes of Shalimar but in essence that is what I took from it. The great thing about it too was L'Envol's ability to mellow and grow on me in the dry down, becoming a much warmer and more resinous iris and patchouli skin scent. Just a brief comment on the bottle, I thought it was a little gimmicky at first especially for Cartier but after being initially striking is really quite a thing to behold when you look at it for a minute or so. That design is not really something I've seen although mildly reiniscent of the recent CK release this is a much classier affair. Sadly I don't like enough of this fragrance to wear it but I take my hat off for Cartier reimagining men's fragrance with an interesting release which does eventually enter territory I enjoyed but only after several hours, which I suppose just speaks to the good longevity. I have a feeling this one will have folks divided but please do try because you never know L'Envol might just surprise you.
I dunno what happened here? I must not have given the EDT a fair crack of the whip because I dismissed it as a vaguely honey covered fig, a sort of non event of a fragrance really. Except for the bottle which is truly a unique thing to behold...in a picture. I'm afraid the execution leaves something to be desired, I think it's the plastic outer which I accept has to be made of plastic but just makes it seem a bit cheap and I'm no snob. Anyway this EDP was actually really nice opens kind fresh, floral and not immediately knowable. Then the violet and iris accord grows and it's classy, doesn't quite have the satin, cosmetic feel orris or iris can but hints at it. Couple that with a overt violet note and even a slight petrol tinge...can you see where I'm going with this? There's a classy powdered leather and yes It resembles Fahrenheit. However the sweetness and greek, honied fig and perhaps some vanilla? takes it more into Fahrenheit parfum territory but L'Envol EDP is less heavy and more aerated. I liked it, developed too just becoming a nice warm skin scent. This is better than many designer releases which is kind what Cartier do isn't it? Longevity was acceptable wouldn't call it good.
I believe this is a layering perfume oil, as it is a very faint and skin close scent. Musky and clean. I have not tested it in combination with other perfumes, but I believe it's more interesting layering it, than wearing it on its own.
I adore this fragrance because it plugs into a primal need I have for baby sweet, soft fragrances which serve to calm as much as serve any other purpose. This doesn't mean that Rogart is devoid of sophistication because it's very grown up in it's approach. It's the softness and comfort I like about it and perhaps even bordering on the more feminine. The opening is really sweet, I don't know about Juniper berries (which I find quite bitter) Rogart is more like a synthetic blend of fruity berries just for that initial minute or so. Then it becomes clear what this fragrance is all about and it's creamy, woods. The unmistakable signature sweetness of maple is a welcome addition to this fragrance and works perfectly with guaiac wood, it really is a marriage made in heaven. Along with angelica and what I perceive as vanilla, these are the major players throughout the heart of Rogart and long into the drydown. Elemi is listed as the resin in here but I honestly think this comes off warmer and more of a benzoin/amber type smell as it settles out too. This is very interesting and rewarding fragrance, who's creamy woods is reminiscent of very high quality Guaiac and sandalwood fragrances. The main ones Rogart reminds me of is Donna Karen Fuel and Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin. I've worn this a few times since I purchased it earlier this year and I have to say the performance and silage seemed average. However, today I've been complimented on it, told 'your dog smells of your perfume...it's very nice' (obviously rubbed off when cuddling him) and I can noticibly smell it quite strongly on myself. This is due to a heavy application and is often (not always) the answer to a weaker performing fragrance...spray more! Another great from Molton Brown.
This fragrance was a blind buy (will I ever learn?)and it instantly reminded me of something. It's a complete dead ringer of another designer fragrance but I can't for the life of me place what it is? It's really frustrating actually. It has the weight and sensuality of a real heavy hitting oriental but with a cheap and synthetic nature, all at the same time. I kinda want to reel off a load of fragrances it resembles, none of them being THE one it actually smells exactly like... but first, the notes. The opening is a hint of bergamot but you can forget that within a nano second, Chambre Rouge is about a ton of powdered spice and a massive dose of sweet amber, loads of benzoin, loads of vanilla, musk and woods. I'd say the guiac and sandalwood are most prominent, just adding to the powdery nature of the santal/vanilla drydown. I have to admit I like it and my girlfriend absolutely loved it. It's almost sickly a slightly odd a beguiling mixture of The One, Le Male, Mont Blanc Individuel, and elements of the unnatural kinda plastic from Henae Mori or Versace Dreamer. I will update this review when I finally remember what this is essentially a clone of, after kicking myself. The facts are though, despite this fragrance having it's flaws it actually lasts well and for those who like Chambre Rouge, it would be quite easy to end up loving it especially at this price. I mean the bottle isn't bad, kinda reminds me of YSL Jazz but the tacky, slightly askew printed label with a font borrowed from a 1991 Terminator 2 poster just serves as a reminder this is a bargain bucket fragrance. I couldn't wear this fragrance often because I find it a bit too cloying but for occasional Autumn/Winter wear it's worth having in my wardrobe. It's a pleasant surprise which makes me want to delve into what else Pascal Morabito has to offer, some of which are not on the Fragrantica database.
The most difficult perfume I've come across so far, is Cuir. It took me almost two years to finally fall in love, and at least 2 dozen tries. But once you get it, it is one of the most beautifully brutal leathers. Cuir has a few notes and a lot of twists and turns. It's, in a nutshell, the most animalic smoky leather around in contemporary form*. If you've ever smelled Gauloises this is the opening; disgusting to many, the smell of cigarette smoke dominates the first half hour. It's a smoke curtain that doesn't allow you to see through, you have to walk past it in order to get through the development of the heart notes. There, you get punched by castoreum and leather done in the old fashioned way. This ain't your average soft leather bag, or smooth suede. This is worn leather, left in the sun to cure, steeped in spices and animal fat. Isobutyl quinolene to the max. This is what Germaine Cellier would have liked, had she been around today in this sanitized environment with IFRA restricting everything. This is what Marlene would be wearing, maybe layered with a heady floral. As unpleasant it may sound, or not depending on your mileage, Cuir is a true interpretation of a badass leather. It could have been called Bandit and it wouldn't feel wrong. If and when you get past the opening smoke screen, the rest of the path is full of animalics, leather, and some opoponax to cut through the brutalism. There's an underlying sweetness after the first couple of hours that softens the scent and makes it much more inviting. It lasts linearly in this stage until the drydown after a good 10 hours, still projecting quite well. Mona had a lot of talent, unfortunately many were late to the party. A real stunner! *Having tested old and new 75 ml bottles, Cuir has been toned down quite a bit. While the perfume smells identical, all of them actually not just Cuir, the boldness of the original release is missing. Still amazing, but just like Mona, there's something missing. Review based on original formulation/bottle.
It's taken me a while to come around to reviewing this fragrance and it's largely due to the fact I'm not that keen on Jay Z himself. This era and ethos of hiphop largely passed me by and despite respecting the fact he is a global star, and artists I do like, seem to respect him but I simply don't like his music. If I had to list greatest rappers of all time he definitely wouldn't figure, in fact he wouldn't even figure in top rappers from Brooklyn. Anyway...That aside I did try this fragrance not long after it's release and I initially liked it. I wore it properly the otherday and I'm not surprised to say I still really like it. The opening reminds of some kind of sweets from my youth and it changes from a sweetened orange/mandarin vibe, sharp grapefruit and that unmistakable blueberry note which without doubt makes this stuff memorable. It's kinda like when you get six different flavours of skittles in your mouth at the same time. The base is powdery so I can accept there's violet leaf present (although I don't smell it directly) it's more of a white musk, vanilla and maybe a bit of cardamom? It's pretty elegant but has a sports vibe to it and comes off like a summery, antiperspirant. That is in no way belittling Gold because I think it's one of the better sweet, fruity fragrances on the market. The performance however is not good, it doesn't project at all and is gone within a matter of an hour or two, even so I still think it's worthy of merit and would even go as far as to say I'd add it to my wardrobe if I saw it for a dramatically reduced price.
This is a fine, fresh aquatic fragrance very much in the mould of the Nautica Voyage and Versace Man Eau fraiche etc... Blue goes on with a heavenly opening which being someone who's perfume awakening (so to speak) was during the 90's I can't help but love and reminisce about. The aquatic, violet, citrus and white musk is nothing short of lovely in the opening, with hints of the patch and clary sage grounding it ever so slightly especially as it settles on my skin. The main issue I had was the emergence of a cucumber type note after the first 10 mins or so. Perefectly inkeeping with the fresh feel but also threatening to spoil this juice slightly. Luckily that goes away and this fresh scent plows on regardless into a very long lasting drydown. This is effectively a much better option for many people looking to buy similar scents, for the simple reason, it's better. Great stuff from old golden balls yet again!
I first tried this and marked it as a love earlier in the year and thought I had reviewed it already (obviously not) but don't let that fool you, it wasn't because Oud shamash didn't make an impression on me...this stuff is magic. The different company has always intrigued me and despite dipping my toe into them, in store I haven't really extensively sampled them. Oud shamash is totally tailored to my tastes as I get mainly incense and balsamic tones of tolu balsam, Labdanum and exotic fruits and pink pepper in the top. Then a boozy sailor Jerry spiced rum, on a bed of Oud which is unsurprisingly sourced from Laos, seemingly the Mecca of rotting trees. A curiously warm, rich, Amber Oud which is manages to be uplifting and light on its feet in that olibanum type way, fizzy and nearly green and mashing up these disparate concepts is no mean feat to achieve. It really reminds me of a high end and much deeper more complex version of Paul smiths Portrait. This comparison just speaks to how good Portrait actually is, because I absolutely love Oud shamash. The deep drydown mutates into a different fragrance it's a very deep, woody creamy, Amber Oud with only hints at what came before. You can tell the quality and the care that went into making this heavenly juice. Lasting power is great and I wore a very small amount and silage and projection was good. I'm getting a bottle, it's as simple as that.
oooh waves of hate here by the looks of the votes at least. I thought this was inoffensive, designer piffle at worst with glimmers of hope at best. Yes, it has that modern, chuck everything at it and it still comes out bland sort of effect. A mildly ambery base but I wouldn't say ambroxan is prominent and despite what some say it's definitely not like Dior Sauvage. The body of the fragrance is a bleu de chanel type affair of fresh notes with minor hint of some spice but very boring in truth. The main feature of this scent for me is the minty, menthol top note and the earth of patchouli, which in my opinion is the saving grace of what could be a very poor effort from Versace. I believe it's unfair to label this one as bad or a dislike but I won't be buying it that's for sure.
Magnificent dreamy Iris! It's hard to describe L'Attesa's beauty. From the yeasty opening, that is kinda weird in a magnetic way, to the gorgeous buttery Iris that starts appearing after just a couple of minutes, to the leather/sandalwood/oakmoss that darkens the fragile delicacy of the flower, the whole of the perfume manages to conjure the dimly lit room awaiting it's lovers. 1940's, maybe 50's, and the longing for something more. A lover awaits his/her loved one. A leather chesterfield; an aged wooden bookcase; a vase with tuberoses in the corner that is staring to wilt; powder puffs and a cigarette hanging from the lips. The wait (L'Attesa) is over. And the most beautiful Iris unfolds in 3D, in black and white resplendence like you've never smelled before. There's no need for props; the Iris here doesn't need it. Delicate, fragile, utterly mesmerizing. One of the best releases of the year, and an Iris that is to become mythical! Excellent sillage and longevity, still noticeable (easily) after 15 hours.
I can't say I think Zara have any stand out fragrances, at least not the ones I've tried in any case. However they appear to have jumped on the oud train, arguably too late but they are on it, so I will reserve judgement. Something they have done with this one is entice me to sample it with a great looking bottle...I mean look it at it!!!
I remember the old version of this with that walnut gear knob stopper, I'm sure my dad wore it at a point in time, being the Jaguar fan he was. Nostalgia aside, I had never owned this one myself but had a pretty good memory of the smell, something which wasn't my scene in the 90's. However, due to the lack of masculinity in modern releases, one does tend to come full circle steadily becoming our fathers and this is the sort of thing I can't help but dig. The opening is a little strange, borderline unpleasant but makes for something more interesting than Quorum, RL Polo or Krizia Uomo. It does have elements of all of these fragrances and after a turbulent start settles down to be much more subdued and classy...A fine, clean, gentlemenly soap. I'm utterly, loving wearing this something I can't always say about Krizia for example which can become grating as the drydown relentlessly churns on, rather than Jaguar which smooths out, getting nicer and nicer. I mean it's pine, oakmoss, leather, fir, sandalwood, methol, citruses, carnation...the list goes on but crucially the blending here is of the highest order and even the modern formula bottle I have is excellent. The longevity is good, not a patch on older formulations I suspect but good enough for this not to be a shadow of it's former self. Yes, it's like many, many other scents of the 80's but stands out due to a crazy opening which smells like nothing else and worth trying even just for the shock of the first few minutes. I love this fragrance so glad I got it cheap because I will be wearing it.
Does Z&V have a signature sandalwood accord? If they do, most companies should learn from them. The same milky feeling, with the emphasis on milky, that is in La Purete for Her, is here. In La Purete it was accompanied by a soft orange blossom that twirled around the other notes. Here the sandalwood accord has the milky facet amplified, accenting the nuttiness of the chestnut. First of, nothing to do with LVEB, which is a praline bomb. This is Her is mostly sandalwood and cream. With chestnuts. And a floral core made of jasmine. Deceptively simple but it works. If I had to convey a feeling, it is similar to the feel of creamed and powdered skin. Jasmine, with a very small amount of indol makes the whole scent less sweet and more spicy. The cashmeran, or whatever wood is used in the base, is combined with the vanilla and the sandalwood making it feel like a milky pudding. It's not Mysore, nor simply synthetics. Something more but I can't put my finger on it. I don't know what silkwood blossom smells like, but according to descriptions it's a drier mimosa. There's definitely a dryness to the scent, which prevents it from being cloying but I couldn't tell if it's silkwood or something else. Soon after the opening the jasmine takes lead, showing a very nice facet, spicy and heady, swirling in a nutty creaminess; slightly powdery, comforting, but adult. It never becomes cloying, and this is what drew me in. The base notes keep the creamy/milky theme going and at times the jasmine keeps popping to spice things up a bit, along with a powdery musk; not clean but not dirty, just like skin. If I had a sweater/cashmere scent, it'd be this. It's easy to wear, feels appropriate in most occasions, and has an understated edge just like Narciso Rodriguez. Less formal but equally enhancing. I see it as a fall scent, but I'm sure it'll work in winter, when one just needs a blanket and a book to curl with. Sillage is moderate to heavy, according to how much one sprays, and longevity is good at 5 hours and counting. Chic and casual indeed, doesn't feel cheap, and doesn't make one think that a comfort scent has to be a sugar bomb.
My local store which stocks all things Scent Story, usually at great prices never seemed to get this when it came out, yet the oud editions they were all over. However now they are well and truly old hat, I find this one in a bargain bin marked down so I thought why not have a punt? 24 Live another night is very similar to 1 Million, brimful of youthful energy. An opening of tangerine then the familar modern cocktail of the sweet and slightly cloying, with a warm, chemical edge of amber. Cinnamon spiced amber with the soapy element of Cardamom and creamy woods. What I like about this is that although a brazen & unashamed copy, it's not quite as brash as 1 Million but on the flipside doesn't last as long or develop as well as a result so it's a trade off really. For those who like the smell of the Paco scent without wanting something as in your face, this might be a viable option considering also that it's significantly cheaper. I have it in my collection now and although I'm not crazy about it, I'm wearing this today and it's okay. One small comment about the bottle, I figured these scents looked a little tacky presentation wise but the bottle is actually quite nice (exception being the cheap nasty stuck on label) the stopper is uber heavy and a nice touch.
First of all I'm not the biggest fan of Diesel fragrance but I don't hold any grudges and I'm always welcome to being surprised but this I'm afraid is more boring nonsense. Bad? Nah I wouldn't say it smells bad as such but when combined with the fact that from the notes at least, it had the promise of bucking a trend of mediocrity in designer releases lately, sadly Bad doesn't do that. Instead it is a mildly noxious cocktail of the good the BAD and the en vogue. I have to say it has that modern feel of an Invictus, single handedly trying to be everything to everyone a bit of freshness here, some aquatic masculinity there and shades of thick clunky oriental all around. The only two things that stand out are a kind of amber scent, with lavender and sage vibe with some darker tones of tobacco. There's critically no caviar but there is that bit of calone or aquaticness which could nod towards it I suppose? However, in my view has no business being mixed with tobacco. It all just messy and I can see why there's comparisons to Just Cavalli which is similar but perhaps a bit better? I'm not a fan of this and although it's perfectly okay fragrance It's not for me and is just too mainstream for my tastes. I will wear the samples I have and I have any further thoughts I will add them, can't see my mind changing though.
This was very nice in many ways, a spicy yet clean scent with the right amount of depth but still incredibly accessible and crowd pleasing. I think due to the relative boldness of Icon Absolute I was expecting this to be even more luxurious and some how even louder but it isn't. Reserve is the key to this and it plays it's hand well. The opening is mysterious, clean masculine woods very subtle, vetiver and some peppery spice with a smooth cardamom vibe. It's very much a raw stripped back L'Nuit de Homme and definitely more in the vein of the original Icon. It dries down to a heart of deep and satisfying woods (which is apparently ebony) and it's really lovely there's also a creamy sandalwood at the base. So all in all a decent fragrance, well it's not without it's issues. The facts are this scent is very subtle, the quietest so far in the Icon line and longevity was not great. However, I have only worn once and I really didn't spray much at all, so I could be being unfair to Icon Elite. I really need to try this fragrance again because I definitely liked it, wouldn't go as far as to say I enjoyed it but I'd definitely give it another go. Update: Having given this another go I have to say it really resembles Paco Rabanne XS or Creed Himalaya but crucially with a more amped and soapier focus on cardamom. This is the heart of the fragrance but there's hints throughout at a softer drydown, which last time revealed that exotic wood and santal vibe I liked let's hope it does the same now I'm wearing a proper application. I have to say this is a pleasant masculine scent which I have a soft spot for because of the assoiation with Paco XS, a scent from the 90's I'm coming to realize, I really miss. Good but not great, more palatable to my nose than the other versions, although I'm okay with them too.
What. A. Beast. Furyo is an animalic powerhouse in the league of vintage Kouros, and to some extent Balenciaga. Extremely powerful, decidedly wild, with an animalic sweetness that is to die for! I'm happy that the top notes haven't faded, as the herbal opening is invigorating in a way I have experienced very few times. Laurel, extremely aromatic leads the way. No fig to my nose, and a slight zing from the juniper. I wasn't sure about the laurel but it brought to mind the slight green feel of vintage Opium, the only other fragrance I've noticed this note. The vetiver feels smoky and the tobacco note compliments the feel. The heat is bringing out a patchouli that is extremely nice! Dark brown, sweet, dirty. It is the whole plant, not fractions or sanitized distillations; this is a die hard absolute that makes me love it even more. It doesn't list floral notes but there must be something in there. Jasmine perhaps, with a smidgen of indole. Carnation? The spiciness says yes! But the star from the second hour onwards is the civet. A powdery dirtiness that high quality civet is known for. And there's heaps of it. Talk about a clean/dirty dichotomy! If castoreum adds the leather feel, there's also quite a bit of it in there, along with a slight urine note (honey?) that I love! Dirty and animalic but in the style of older perfumes; simply irresistible. And to top it off, if the above aren't enough, a good dose of oakmoss to make it a truly animalic chypre. It smells like a million bucks, without the price tag. If you enjoy Kouros, Antaeus, Balenciaga or Lapidus pour homme, even vintage Paloma Picasso, Furyo is a hidden jewel. Just as animalic as the first two, but with a more pronounced raw patchouli, it is far more affordable than the rest, and bottles still show up on eBay. Just get an atomizer first to decant, as most of the bottles of the first release come as splash. Very powerful, long lasting and extremely sexy. A perfect example of 80's chypres!
One thing I feel is that Orchid Soleil shouldn't be promoted as a Black Orchid flanker. Yes, it shows an edgy (for mainstream) character that hails to the boldness of the original, but it can perfectly stand as a new creation. What makes it stand apart is the opening foremost. Green, cool, slightly bitter and mentholated. For a niche brand, it's something we've seen before, but for a mainstream scent, even if from Tom Ford, it's edgy. When i first sprayed it on, the image I had was of a very subdued Tubereuse Criminelle. They're not alike, but the sense of cool/warm feels the same; a harsh opening followed by a slightly green tuberose. And that to me it's the main idea of Orchid Soleil, a tuberose dominant fragrance, that shows various aspects of the flower from beginning to end. After the opening, which I like a lot, the flower starts to show. The heart reminds me of Tuberose Gardenia by Lauder, but less formal, more demure. The flower has not fully bloomed but you can sense that the air around it is heavy. And soon enough, the petals start unfolding to show their narcotic side. It will bring to mind many similar based scents, but there's a small difference in this very nice looking gold bottle: an edge that is sorely missing from current perfumery (the opening; how many will be scared of it and leave the counter empty handed?) and the heart, which feels more similar to deep floral scents from the 80's than florals of 2016. What starts as an interpretation of tuberose in the blooming stage ends as a flower looking at the sky in the night. There's a slightly sweet feel to the drydown, but I don't perceive it as the chestnut whipped cream promised. It's creamy and dense but more like sandalwood/amber than vanilla. And I'm happy that it's subdued in sweetness because it doesn't distract from the flower; it enhances it. I haven't tried Soleil Blanc to see if it's similar, but Orchid Soleil feels like a complete perfume. It manages to add elements that serve to enhance the beauty of tuberose (the opening bitterness, a slight mentholated greenness) without giving in to a cheap drydown. Enjoyable from beginning to end, with good longevity and above moderate sillage. If it was just a bit stronger it would be perfect, but other than that I'm glad that it turned out different from what I had in mind, a standard white floral. Tropical and dreamy? Yes Standard? No
@beelike: the perfume spray is an edp. Lauder brands used to use this appellation for edp. Aromatics also exists as an edt, in a clear glass bottle, not frosted like the regular, which is IMO less stellar than the classic perfume spray. A glorious power chypre! Enjoy it cause they don't make em like this anymore!
I’ll start by saying that the bottle I own was purchased in 2009. Not vintage by any means as I haven’t been able to find one (yet), but still powerful with both treemoss and oakmoss listed, and a deep amber brown color. I believe it is still very much Aromatics Elixir. And it is one heck of an elixir. Seductive, powerful, serene. Confident, just like the person who wears it. Statement making, not only because it is strong and room filling but because it represents perfectly a concept, an era, the perfume itself. Wearing Aromatics today, just like other vintage fragrances with highly marked personalities feels like time traveling; it is so specific, that the image just flows right in your mind. It is so personal, that it becomes part of you. While to many it’s dated and old, I can’t help but get weak in the knees when I smell it on someone. And thankfully I still do! Aromatics on me is mostly about the green. Herbs, patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver...and less about the flowers, which bloom magnificently on certain chemistries. On my skin, the initial bracing bitterness dissipates just too soon to reveal a forest tapestry, where the floral notes simply enhance the overall feel. In all these years I haven’t been able to find the tuberose that’s in the formula. Sometimes I can sense the rose or the jasmine, but they leave so soon that only a flicker of their presence is left, enough to magnify even more so the beauty of the other notes. And the chamomile is simply stunning; not often used, here it acts as the link that ties the layers of the fragrance together. There is an overall honeyed smell, much like in Knowing or Paloma Picasso, but where these fragrances rely heavily on the rich florals, the sweetness here doesn’t feel floral in particular. It enhances even more the green/leathery/animalic facets; it relies on the beauty of its basenotes to showcase its true nature. And Aromatics is so powerful that the honey-ness simply serves to counteract its force. It might be a tough one, but it is also elegant, smart, beautiful and joyous. A sweet woody chypre. Powerful and perfumey enough to ensure a grandiose chypre structure that feels as exhilarating as Angostura on an upset stomach, Aromatics does the same for the soul. Originally conceived as a treatment fragrance, it advertised the properties of jasmine, oakmoss, chamomile and civet. But it’s so much more than that. Hippy chic in the 70’s for those who could afford it. Powerful enough to cut through the smoke in 80’s ‘Club Opium’ or ‘Poison Discotheque’. I don’t recall it in the 90’s, was it out of style? Couldn’t be, Aromatics defies the laws of style and vogue. It simply is. While it’s still very popular, many are intimidated by it, including shop assistants. And rightfully so; you have to go near it with determination, spray and let it engulf you. Only then can you truly appreciate its beauty, whether you enjoy it or not. Aromatics has, and also demands, a big personality. Someone that doesn’t follow trends, who works hard but knows how to unwind. Aromatics feels like a wonderful signature fragrance and one that no doubt leaves an imprint. I’m lucky that I can smell it so often and more often than not, it suits its wearer beautifully. Magnificent!
Like I said in my previous review (I’m actually reviewing a perfume twice???), I adore -and use sparingly- my 2009 bottle. I have it, along with my 1987 Genny, on a pedestal. But after dissing the associations, and considering the latest reformulation as a flanker, I went ahead and purchased a new bottle. Mostly because Clinique has still not given up completely on Aromatics. And while it’s different, it’s still my good ol’ friend. Oakmoss, civet, chamomile...these notes have diminished, falling out of style unfortunately. But some others, like vetiver, incense, dark roses, geranium, have come forth. More or less making it Aromatics Elixir Dry. Comparing both bottles side by side, I notice the change, and I cringe. But wearing the newer one and judging it by its own merits, this is Aromatics. Just a different facet of it; drier, woodier, less mossy, less herbal. It’s not a witches brew anymore, but it inhabits the same forest. I feel like I’m meeting an old friend I haven’t seen in ages. The face looks different; older, more mature, with lines of sadness and happiness. Of life. The hair is different; new haircut, different color. The edp has changed to edt along the way. But after catching up, it’s the same person I used to know. I’m just getting to know a different side. For now, Aromatics has not been butchered nor gone the route of Opium, Poison, N°5, N°19, Miss Dior, Magie Noire and so many more. I have a special weakness for it, far greater than I thought, and maybe I’m imparcial, but it’s still on its pedestal, despite diminished sillage, longevity and projection. I just spray far more, and catch it during the day, bringing a smile to my face. As a comparison, it’s in the same ballpark as Opium was circa 1995/98 under Sanofi, or Miss Dior circa late 90’s; different but still very much itself. For now, my old friend is alive and kicking.
99093; this is the formula number for current Aromatics Elixir perfume spray. It’s also the formula number for the limited edition Morher’s Day bottle that came out earlier this year. So it’s been reformulated again early 2023. Up until a few months before, the reformulation to remove Lilial had formula number 49170. So why they reformulated again in the span of less than 2 years beats me. But I’m glad they did because they restored some of the lost beauty! This current formulation brings it closer to the 80’s formula and remarkably close to Genny, the original Diana de Silva production. Almost a dupe, far far closer than previous AE editions. There’s a perceivable chamomile smell that was kinda missing, aldehydes, neroli and more civet than before. The oakmoss is still there but now it’s more potent; the inky saltiness is back and it smells more like proper oakmoss. I also smell less patch and the floral notes are more blended. It’s more herbal, greener compared to the more woody and dry previous iteration. I also notice more sillage and I don’t become nose blind to it. We know that the big face lift came around 2014, when it became distinctly slimmer but still maintaining its character. Now, it’s got part of its personality back, so they must have listened (I wish!!) to consumers. Either way, it’s a very beautiful adaptation, it lingers for hours, and bringing it closer to its 80’s version shows how multifaceted Aromatics can be without losing its traits. Now it’s a good time to stock up if it’s a fragrance you enjoy; who knows how next reformulations will be like.
Other than a distant memory (or perhaps a dream, not sure) of my kindergarten teacher wearing Samsara, I was never really into it. I tried it once about 8 years ago from a pretty old tester, thought it was ok and never looked back. More recent testings made me think that it was way overrated but there was this thing bugging me; it's a classic Guerlain, how come I don't see the appeal? When Santal Majuscule was launched, I loved it from the start. I could see the appeal of sandalwood, even though synthetic, and the pairing with rose and cocoa was delightful. I would have gotten a bottle, or 2, if it was stronger and more lasting on my skin. So, I live on decants of it to satisfy my craving. But since Samsara is touted as the reference sandalwood, real Mysore no less, I sought after the vintage version, until a brand new bottle of the edp landed on my hands. The date? 1989! I paid the price, less than current version of the same 100ml size and waited patiently for my parcel to arrive, which it did last Friday. And now I can finally see the appeal and what all the fuss is about! Samsara feels perfumey. Not a word I use often, but it feels like a real perfume, distant and at the same time very familiar. Maybe my teacher did wear it after all, and it stayed in my memory like a childhood dream. I'm not sure, and I won't be able to ever ask her, but it feels like a comforting embrace. Of the bat, there's a medley of notes on my skin. Spicy, creamy, floral, powdery; everything wants my attention but I'm giving it to the shadow that's lurking at the back, a big fat creamy coconutty vanillic sandalwood. Could it be the phantom of real Mysore? It should be, I mean I have the first version released. Is it 20%? 30%? 5%? I don't care, it feels so rich and thick that it seems as if it's about to jump and eat me. It feels familiar, because...sandalwood (even if most perfumes use a synthetic rendition of it nowadays, no matter how perfected the accord is), without a hint of screech. It is just gloriously smooth, sweet, engulfing. Samsara is touted as sandalwood + jasmine nirvana but I get more ylang ylang and a healthy serving of iris/orris root. That's fine, as I love ylang more than jasmine. And I think it contributes to that creamy feel. Apart from the opening medley, I mostly distinguish these 3/4 notes, but the backstage help from the other ingredients contributes to the overall sensation; it is calming and blissful, just like the add conjures. A state of serenity! I'm not sure whether the current version does justice to the juice. My testings were never very thorough and I never gave in to the scent, but the absolute perfection of vintage Samsara as I feel it on my skin, with a perfectly defined sandalwood that smells like nothing I've smelt before, made me love it deeply. I understand why so many love it. It is a genderless nirvana, that speaks of inner calmness at a time when other hits spoke of decadence and excess. I love both ends of the spectrum, and Samsara is definitely jumping to the top of the blissful side! As a side note; someone mentioned below that it feels like a child of Allure and Hypnotic Poison, or something like it. Yes, Allure reminds me at times of Samsara (a very avant garde/deconstructed version of it for the new millennium) but not so much of Hypnotic Poison. They both share that nutty powdery creaminess but Samsara defines it via Mysore sandalwood, having a depth that the other two don't. I love all 3 perfumes, but having to choose only one, I'd go for Samsara! Lonjevity: 12 hours and counting! Sillage: erm, massive!
