Okay so Oud can play tricks on us all, mutating into lots of complex, sub-categorized notes. Oud'ish I've no doubt contains oud but I can't say in manifests itself in a way I've smelled before. I found this to be more of the minimal, sterility I've encountered across much of the Zarko range but with a crucial difference...I actually like the way this smells. It's a curious woody musk with an odd quality (Which is perhaps the tea, the fact that I love a good tea note makes me no authority on it because again, Oud'ish doesn't make it easy to recognize. The one thing I do get when it dries down on my skin is a very creamy woods, almost sweet and vanilla like. It's very smooth and actually gives a warm dimension to what are largely cold, indifferent fragrances. I actually like this one but the performance was pathetic on me barely lasting an hour or two, this one might be worthy of further investigation.
This is not my idea of a nice perfume. As a house Zarko is as conceptually confused as the plot of this offerings Hollywood namesake. The citrus opening is fresh but then gives way to a aldehydic, and coldly metallic, calone laden aquatic. Inception is not so much salty and sea like but less natural and authentic than that. Even the green or woody element to this fragrance doesn't evoke nature. I just don't dig it, smelled it before and I'm over this sort of arty, minimalism unless it really speaks to me and this has nothing interesting to say. It does have some lasting power, a plus I suppose for those who do like it but it's a very mild skin scent when dried down.
I can't be too hard on this fragrance because it actually delivers quite a pleasant experience. I don't think it's as good or accessible to men for example as something like Liquides Imaginaires Dom Rosa. Pink Molecule is certainly a well rendered champagne fragrance, the notes are instantly recognizable and airing on the side of feminine with fizzy bubbles and freshness in the opening, a lovely apricot note and hints of blossom and florals and the sweetness of dessert wine. It evokes pinkness in the same way as Dom Rosa and to me that is a good thing, however The hint of roses adds a dimension this stuff just doesn't quite achieve. I won't dwell on that though, this is a nice smelling fragrance with average performance and a brisk, effervescent quality a big bruiser of a man like me doesn't possess and doesn't really want to either.
This is funny one and not least because of the instant reminders of Escentric molecules and the minimal/Lazy perfume design of the ultra modern era. I'm not a lover of the vague woodiness of some of these fragrances but not apposed to the use of these techniques or molecules either, I'm just yet to find one that really speaks to me. This has an air of Iso E super about it just in approach perhaps? I mean it's distinctly different , a hard to pigeonhole opening of citrus, then some indiscriminate woods one could describe as cedar but there's a warmth and a bit of muskiness too. It did get a little woodier as it dried down becoming more worthy of the 'Wooden Chips' name and increasingly like a subtle sandlewood but decidedly less spicy. I can't say I get an earthy, patch or oud vibe from this just a weakly disappointing and suspicious skin scent. I'm often worried about being very strong to others and I can barely detect. Don't get me wrong I like my perfumery arty, avant garde and interesting but without tipping over into pretentiousness and Zarkoperfume Molecule No.8 is something that maybe does do that. I don't want nondescript, committee made scents from trendy Scandinavian houses just for the sake of it. I want pieces of art, compositions that are slaved over by perfumers who treat their 'baby' with all the due care and attention they deserve. I'm just not that taken by No.8 and having tried the whole line, this isn't the worst or the best. Blandness seems to be a theme of Zarko...shame really.
Well you better believe it...an 'Intense' fragrance that is worthy of the moniker and some praise. I was dubious about this one, unsure of what direction it could go in but very simply it is a heightened version of the original, perfectly capturing the spirit but deepening it significantly. I feel that the original despite being compared with DH and DHI is as different, as it is similar and Intense is same story. I'd say it's more bracing than the original especially in the opening and notably sweeter. It has a not quite bubblegum but kinda fruity, sweets (candy) gourmand feel which is palpably amped up. The nutty, creamy, vanilla/iris backbone is as lovely and grounding as it was the first time out and the performance was better too. Just to note, I did absolutely drown myself in the stuff for a first wear but I got 8 hours plus and even longer as a faint skin scent. Just while I'm on the 'bubblegum' comparison I'd compare it to two recent releases (in style alone)...see if you can follow my thinking because this immediately sprang to mind. The new Popeye Le Male and the Ultra Male share that highly synthetic, sweet note which is faintly around in Popeye and on steroids in Ultra Male which is slightly vulgar at first but as it dries down to become sublime. I think this is the tale of Valentino Uomo & Uomo Intense, with the crucial difference that it's candy notes are great from the start, never overstepping it's bounds. Yeah this is nice, I'm glad they haven't ruined the good rep of the first one and if I run out of Uomo anytime soon I definitely get this one.
I knew nothing about this release and it turned out to be something I hadn't expected from Aramis...but perhaps should've done. No brand is too precious to jump on a trendy bandwagon and this is what Aramis have done here and maybe with flankers like adventurer and black so as I say...it was half expected. The opening is straight away identifiable as tonka bean, so I guess that's something and it's that synthetic, dirty, heavy vanilla chemistry that runs right through the experience. Lavender actually compliments Tonka well and there's a hint of that combo in Voyager. Look...this is normally something I'd say I don't like, I'm not into designer, gourmand, tonka fragrances as a rule but after the harshness and clunkiness of the opening and first hour or two it becomes a subdued, skin scent which to me is quite inoffensive. I'm more tolerant than I used to be but this isn't good...I'll pass.
I remember trying the pour homme and I could've sworn this one too? Maybe I didn't so I've revisited it to see what I think and I'm pleasantly surprised. The opening is a very uplifting citrus not all sharp, bitter grapefruit, some sweeter fruity tones. A clean light, peppery musk greets you as it settles and in the drydown with a body of woods, cedar and vetiver at the back. It's not rocket science and it will never astound anyone but this is a very nicely put together and wearable fragrance. Givenchy Pour Homme seems to be a throwback somehow, because it doesn't have any obvious, modern trickery or faddiness...but I suppose it did come out in 2004! I want to see this heavily reduced and I would consider adding it to my collection, because it's a worthwhile fragrance, without being remarkable in anyway.
Very interesting bottle and so is the scent within. Finally someone has done a good, sweet smelling, rich, gourmand oriental in the designer realm and I never in a million years thought it would come from Ferragamo. Perhaps I'm being slightly hasty and rushing into reviewing this (something I rarely do without at least a couple of wears under my belt.) because I only briefly tried it on my arm today. It shapes up to be something sweet but not cloying and genuinely deep, without being harsh in any way. Uomo opens with a fruits, a tart sweetness, which actually when settled smells more like a slightly boozy fig scent. The base is a kind of powdery cacao and tonka bean vibe which I must admit I didn't immediately associate with tiramisu but I suppose a kind of vanilla/chocolate/coffee is exactly what tonka and cacao are so...yeah Tiramisu. (a dessert I love BTW) The bottle has a striking look to it and is reminiscent of Lubin, guerlain and Lalique flacons with the similar embossed black bits. I will have to update this review because I'm intrigued to try Uomo again and that fact alone means its a good release. Be warned though this fragrance is for those of us with a sweet tooth and I'm predicting it will not be to everyone's taste.
This perfume does have an unusual feel, not just in the opening notes but throughout and I think that is due to something which conceptually at least, was a good idea. Wasabi root is an interesting note and considering most people have never actually had 'Real' wasabi (myself included) I will have to go off the horseradish and green food colouring we get in sushi restaurants, regardless it's an rarely used note. To me I get the same effect as a very calming lavender smell from the opening but it's mainly comprised of sweeter green notes, violet & fig leaf, citruses and galbanum. I do also get quite a nice undertone of coffee, it's very subtle and is likely coming from the tonka beans but it's there and very pleasing. It's not an earthy smell but there's definitely a touch of patch and grassy, herbaceous vibes keeping everything in check. The body of this fragrance is resinous myrrh and labdanum but still modern like something from Comme des Garcon. Despite all of this interest and promise to begin with, something is sadly lacking from this creation and suffers from the usual misgivings of Olfactive studio fragrances. There seems to be something not fully fleshed out about their ideas, I have made the mistake of rushing into buying the latest offering 'Selfie' which again is the same story. The illusion of innovation is quickly replaced by a slightly baggy, shapeless scent in the drydown, with none of those defined and discernible notes from the beginning. We could say this about many fragrances but all too often I've found myself saying it about Olfactive studios fragrances and that has to mean something. I actually loved this when I first sampled it in store but now having bought the mini set and worn it I'm less convinced it would be worth adding to my collection. Don't be discouraged from trying Panorama because it has some interesting ideas, just be wary the wow factor of the novel opening is temporal and smell becomes less likable throughout the wear...did for me anyway.
This is not what I was expecting judging by the name and that can be a good thing sometimes, especially when you're sampling a new private blend. Although the opening is pleasant and bright I wouldn't say it's a typical bergamot smell or even a typical citrus, it may take me a few tries to figure this one out. As for the rest of the fragrance it has a marginally more feminine focus when it comes to the florals rather than the typical neroli I had perhaps expected, maybe something like the blue bottle ones. There's gardenia and ylang ylang not really favourites of mine but when complimented by a hevier more oriental base of sandalwood and tonka, it certainly makes for a interesting fragrance. I will definitely have to try this again to make up my mind and update this review accordingly but Venetian Bergamot is not a total flop I know that.
Yeah...yet another summer version which is more than mildly derivative of the others. In fact, as quite rightly pointed out the kiwi note in here reminds me of the 2013 summer one...let's face it, this is the same.
Really captures the juicy, natural fig much like Diptyque Philosykos. Sensual, soft woods and musk in the base really set it apart from the aforementioned comparison and give it overall a more feminine leaning scent but... Would I wear it? I have to say Yes I definitely would so it can't be that feminine. Lasting power is not that great but I suspect if you teamed it up with the shower gel or body lotion, you might get a performance boost. Regardless you will smell nice and feel refreshed wearing this...I like it.
I wholeheartedly agree with the below review, Un amore eterno is easily the standout from this trio of fragrances. The rest are nice too but this one has the magic you expect from Roja. I was recommended this by a SA friend of mine who went to the Roja Dove boutique and was presented with them by the man himself. Both her and her fragrance mad husband choose this one and I can see why. It's a complex, rich, elegant gourmand fragrance with wonderful tones of coffee, cacao, orris root and vanilla with hints of many other glorious notes. I loved it.
As far as the DUA fragrances I've tried, this one is head 'n' shoulders above the others. Ironic that an original composition was better received than a bevvy of clones and unapologetic copies of popular fragrances. I must say the Mobster is complex, the opening is a very impressive (I did say "wow!" before I even sniffed it as the cloud found me first.) and special combination of dense tobacco, heavy woods and a non sickly honey note, oh and with boozy spices too. It does venture into the cherry tobacco territory of Pure Havane, with the obvious Tom Ford Tobacco vanille/Tobacco Oud comparisons as well. The main thing I get as it settles is a very natural, green, grassy, patchouli which reminded me of slightly damp and beginning to compost grass. It took me back to summer evenings as a teenager, laying on the grass at the park, with hints of tobacco and booze. There's oud in here too, but not middle eastern, never resinous I think the sweetness of dried fruits and honey perfectly accent this stuff and even point to of Parfums de Marly Herod and even a bit of Oajan. Despite all these glaringly obvious comparisons The Mobster stands out to me as a really unique and interesting composition which progresses nicely smelling different throughout the wear. The drydown is a glorious close warm, woody, sweet tobacco and I found it a pleasure to wear. The kind of performance you'd expect, without being too strong or cloying I can't fault this fragrance at all.
Okay! So here's the thing with this perfume...it smells like VIW sure and I can't deny the high oil content and good value. I can honestly say I was slightly disappointed, not that Caribbean waters has done anything wrong particularly, just that it differs from the Creed in the way it comes across to me. Just to note for the record (yet again!) I'm not a fan of Creed just for the sake of it, many of the scents are too pricey and have batch consistency or performance issues and clones which are there or there abouts are readily available. It's just that though...'there or there abouts' because as for the actual smell of many of them, I must confess...I prefer Creed to the clone. I don't know what it is? could be the ambergris base allegedly used in all of them? I really don't know? This is a prime case of this, I have never owned VIW but have worn samples of it extensively and although it's not a very strong fragrance I have to say I never had those grave performance issues with it. The prospect of a stronger, oil heavy version did appeal to me but DUA CW doesn't quite deliver it, despite your skin shimmering with oil after application. Sure the opening is stark, strong limes and the drydown is a heavily boozy coconut and from that point of view it's great but I think is just destined to be a subtle scent. I think If you don't like this sort of fragrance CW will not make you warm to the experience as it is decidedly heavier (especially for the first hour) and clumsier than VIW. I just think that the Creed has an unknown quality and lighter approach which simple makes it smell better to my nose. There's not a lot in it and I'm glad I got CW, the performance was pretty good but not a marked improvement on VIW if I'm honest. It definitely projects more at first before settling down and did last all day so I can't fault it there. It's passable enough of an approximation not to have to buy VIW if you're that way inclined. I still have a huge problem with clones and feel ashamed for owning the ones I do, even though they were bought as exploratory experiments, because I wouldn't slag something off that I'd never tried.
Woah! This is one of the most unique things I've smelled in a while, I can honestly say I haven't come across something quite like The Noir. I was encouraged to try it in store at first on a card and couldn't really get to grips with it? Having worn it now I can't say I'm any the wiser? Contrary to some of the thoughts expressed below, I get loads of tea from this fragrance especially in the opening but undoubtedly continuing throughout. Bvlgari do have a bit of a love affair with tea and I have to say I really love the original Men's fragrance, without actually owning a bottle. (I must put that right one day) The tea in this is not typical, black tea but much more oriental, dark fragrant but still with a metallic edge. Tobacco and oud (apparently) give this strange concoction a smokey depth which further adds to the tea, and with a hint of rose in there this fragrance is full to the brim with interest. I get a patchouli base which comes on more in the drydown but is yet again adding to the contradictory, clean meets dirty, natural vibes of this whole perfume. I could talk and talk about this fragrance and despite my seemingly glowing appraisal, at the end of the day I came to the conclusion...I don't completely like The Noir. It has some properties I just can't abide and I'd even go as far to say the dry down gets even worse but as a perfume composition, I think it's truly excellent and something I'd love to grow on me. So Bravo Jacques Cavallier! I'm even that much of an adventurer now that I kinda want to add this to my collection, rather than sticking to safe stuff which ticks wear-ability boxes for me. I want to be challenged and this juice did that. Performance was pretty good too and the silage was a silent creeper, that keeps letting you know it's there. Fascinating stuff, I'd encourage anyone to try this.
Oh Cartier...I can't help but feel slightly let down by this. It's not bad as such, a clearly modern aquatic, with a citrus opening and evident staying power but I can't say I liked it. There's far better offerings out there for those of us who want this sort of fragrance. I never really liked the Noire version either after finally seeking it out due to how good the original Pasha de Cartier is. This is basically a sport flanker of an inferior flanker in the first place and I hate to be a nay saying, fanboy type but I kinda expect more from Cartier. I'm the first to berate people who say that about Dior or YSL but in Cartier's case they have a smaller more focused line and audience and subsequently less need to release 'filler' I thought? They are at the classier end of the designer spectrum, at least that's my perception. As such they don't feel the need to kowtow to the mooing masses and bang out flankers and fragrances for the sake of it, to compete with 1 Million or Eros. I don't feel that's what Edition Noire Sport is but it doesn't have the unique nature of Declaration or the mainstream, accessible, dignity of Roadster, or any of their flankers to be fair. I just see this as a 'meh' release and maybe I'm over thinking things and should just take it at face value but I was genuinely excited when I saw this cool looking bottle in store, only to be left feeling slightly empty. My advice is to get the original Pasha de Cartier and avoid the flankers because even the current formulation is far better and more interesting than this.
I'm not really sure what to make of this one and haven't been for some time..hence only just getting around to reviewing My Land. It's interesting and not without merit but to me smells like wet wood, vetiver and a hint of violets, a combination which can sometimes conjure up images of wallpapering in a damp house on a wet and miserable Saturday afternoon...in the 1970's. I don't know why? I wasn't even born in the 70's but hey ho. I think My Land (especially the opening) reminds me of the He Wood range, crossed with the 90's aquatic calone and a musky hint of Narciso Rodriguez for Him but also with a leathery element to the dry down. Not bad credentials and for this reason I have to say, no wonder it's become a bit of a modern classic. The bottle is certainly a unique design not sure if it's in a 'laughing with' or 'At' sort of a way but I suppose wrapping a piece of leather around the flacon is something I've never seen before. I think I'm going to have to try it yet again because I can't seem to reach a satisfactory conclusion concerning My Land, it was a distinctly average performer too. I'm sure this will review will get an update in the future.
I really like this fragrance and I've agonized over buying it in the past but end up passing on it because of performance and relatively high price for what it is. I absolutely get the association with 4711 but I think this has some subtle differences. The opening is green and zinging with lemon, lime & petigrain, just hints of herbs, then crucially the cloves making for a perfect eau de cologne in the classic style. The fragrance smells amazing I'd just love to find something like this but paired with incredible performance and I'd be a very happy man.
If you want the true scoop on this fragrance and a correct assessment of the whole OS line in general read Deadidol's review below. I totally agree that they are top loaded, with the exception of maybe Chambre Noire? So much promise in the opening notes only to lead to disappointment. Indeed there's clever notes in here and at first this was an instant hit with me, not expected either being slightly fooled by the colour of the juice. Plummy, tart strong opening with loads of resinous beauty, I'd say more benzoin warmth the olibanum but let's just call it...resins. I can definitely smell a sandalwood, papyrus note as it begins to settle, further beefing out this heavy weight oriental vibe, but adding something doey almost wheat like. (Think Jeux des peu) I don't usually like papyrus but when used sparingly in the right composition I can enjoy it. Ombre Indigo just about gets away with it and the fragrance settles to a leathery, earthy vetiver. It's actually quite the mixture of elements and as such a unique smelling perfume so it needs to be applauded for that. However, I keep coming back to the fact the drydown doesn't live up to the glory of the opening. I can't comment on the performance really as this is only the second wear (and I don't recall the performance first time) but I can tell it's fading already and I only applied it an hour and a half ago. Promising start but destined to go the way of other Olfactive Studios releases, shame really. I'm a romantic though and as such this fragrance still gets a love from me despite obviously having problems, If you discard them and judge the smell especially the opening then this perfume deserves praise.
Okay, I hate Eight & Bob and it's difficult not to let their bullshit stories cloud my judgement of their fragrances, maybe I should just lighten up though? So that aside...Egypt was a bottle I looked at and instantly figured would be a spice laden, warm affair and that's pretty much what you get in the opening. It's a great masculine opening too, some lighter tones but then nutmeg, sandalwood maybe even a slight tobacco Tom Ford for Men sort of feeling. This actually quickly dissipates and it becomes a more milky, lavender, cardamom fougere, in the mould of the original Eight & Bob or something like Amouage Reflection. I'm actually not so keen on this middle part of the experience and crave that more spice market beginning but in truth Egypt never really delivers that anyway. The dry down does return to something of a warmer and vaguely leathery, boozy and spiced sandalwood resembling Chamber noire or Bentley Intense but it's too little too late. I can still very faintly smell it 9 hours later so I can't really say it doesn't perform but it's no beast that's for sure. I have to say I instantly liked this fragrance and then over analysed it slightly, the truth is Egypt is right up my street in a lot of ways and see it as a good everyday scent but certainly no L'air du desert marocain or even a Bentley Intense. It's still worth a sniff though as it has some interesting themes that will appeal to people who enjoy the fragrances I've mentioned. The new Eight & Bob Bottles are classic but cool looking as well. Check it out, I have a couple more samples I will definitely be wearing again.
I will spare you the Eight & Bob brand rant (I'll save that for Eqypt) and just stick to the facts of what Cap d'Antibes is. The opening is a very green and pleasant actually with a really authentic feel of fresh vetiver, grasses and some sweetness. This sweetness is being provided by the main element which becomes very apparent very quickly and that's violets. I actually think this is a good combination with the greeness because it blends well with a superb, juicy cucumber note which never once goes that awful way it can. There's a woody hint of birch/cedar and maybe the oakmoss? but it doesn't really serve to make this less powdered or relentlessly about violets. I quite like it but for the price I wouldn't bother. Update: Upon wearing this today I'm actually quite impressed with the remarks I've had already and although I have only just applied it really my sillage trail was commented upon some 15 mins after I had exited the room. Two things to note it was my mum who commented on it and she has a very good sense of smell and it really is freshly applied but hey still pretty good. I have to say I liked it the first time but I really like it now, shame I know it fades but I can't fault the way it starts out and if you are a fan of violet scents this brings some nice attributes to the table.
I actually really love this fragrance. I blind bought it from a discount bargain bin because I can pretty much always trust that a Dunhill is going to be at least passable. Sure on a casual sampling basis you could think this is fairly nondescript and not exactly trailblazing but 51.3N is a fragrance you need to wear and live with to truly appreciate. For example it took about three tries for the Rhubarb note in the opening to become fully apparent and now I smell it every time. The drydown is really lovely though it's a slightly honeyed, warm vanilla and sandalwood. The quality is respectable for a cheaper designer scent, the bottle is heavy and classy looking and the performance is not great but okay when heavily applied. I can't say any fairer than that, Dunhill have created a fine oriental fragrance here and a proud addition to my wardrobe.
Wow! I absolutely loved this fragrance. Some could be mislead by the Oud in the title and although not being all about oud it's definitely in here. This is not least due to the fact that Oud Saphir reminded me of Bella Bellissima White Leather, a kind of sweet vanilla/leather with raspberry and exotic guava notes. This is not so in your face and doesn't have an abundance of vanilla or anything else for that matter. Oud Saphir is incredibly luxurious but somehow calming and balanced and no where near the gaseous, coke driven, bender that Tuscan Leather is. In fact the only similarity I can get is a raspberry note and leather but they are about as different as something containing those two notes can be. To call this a TL clone would be doing it a disservice because I have smelled many clones or similar TL fragrances recently and the association immediately springs to mind. I guess I can smell in the birch in here too adding to the leather feel and also a slightly milky sandal/vanilla thing not dissimilar to santal carmin. Basically this scent is amazing, smelling like a few really decent fragrances I enjoy. good performance too...so top marks again to Atelier Cologne.
