Okay so I remember wearing this one years ago and being very impressed, much like the rest of this brand/perfumers output, Cuir is a triumph of bold perfumery and truly a pioneering blueprint for modern 'niche' whatever that means anymore. Wearing it again today and it's still good (perhaps even great) and I definitely don't want to sound like one of those vintage, size queens, saying 'The new formulations are a shadow of their former self!!!' or any of that guff! (which is obviously sometimes true) I actually think it's much more likely that my perception of it has changed, even in the short period of time I've had this modern sample. It's a brisk opener which definitely smells of a uniquely artisan combination of absinthe and mild fennel tops, but then an inky black almost tar like, smoky, body of leather. It's a real hearkening back to Russian/birch tar leather accords, animalic and woodsy, but with the rounding medicinal effect of resin. Says opoponax here and (only in hindsight after looking) I'm like oh yeah, it's definitely opoponax! I knew that! (such is the humble nose I am) no actually I thought it might be a touch of Myrrh, giving this tacky, concentrate effect. The top notes transitioning into the leathery base reminds me a bit of these Eastern european, Christmas cookies, that are kinda ginger bread ish, but soft, tacky to bite and often have more spices like cloves and such in them. I think there's quite a few artisan brands doing stuff like this now but minus the depth and polish of Mona, this is truly layered and has subtlety, as much as it was a big shake up for the industry in 2010. I'm not, NOT enjoying wearing it, but I always thought this was my favourite from the brand and it might actually not be? I'm still not sure? Just because I'm not quite as taken with it as I once was, It's still great, worth checking out, worth loving. Don't listen to me.
Cuir, from Mona di Orio was released in 2010. The perfumer behind this creation is Mona Di Orio. It has the top notes of Anise and Cardamom, middle notes of Juniper and Leather, and base notes of Castoreum and Opoponax.
Okay so I remember wearing this one years ago and being very impressed, much like the rest of this brand/perfumers output, Cuir is a triumph of bold perfumery and truly a pioneering blueprint for modern 'niche' whatever that means anymore. Wearing it again today and it's still good (perhaps even great) and I definitely don't want to sound like one of those vintage, size queens, saying 'The new formulations are a shadow of their former self!!!' or any of that guff! (which is obviously sometimes true) I actually think it's much more likely that my perception of it has changed, even in the short period of time I've had this modern sample. It's a brisk opener which definitely smells of a uniquely artisan combination of absinthe and mild fennel tops, but then an inky black almost tar like, smoky, body of leather. It's a real hearkening back to Russian/birch tar leather accords, animalic and woodsy, but with the rounding medicinal effect of resin. Says opoponax here and (only in hindsight after looking) I'm like oh yeah, it's definitely opoponax! I knew that! (such is the humble nose I am) no actually I thought it might be a touch of Myrrh, giving this tacky, concentrate effect. The top notes transitioning into the leathery base reminds me a bit of these Eastern european, Christmas cookies, that are kinda ginger bread ish, but soft, tacky to bite and often have more spices like cloves and such in them. I think there's quite a few artisan brands doing stuff like this now but minus the depth and polish of Mona, this is truly layered and has subtlety, as much as it was a big shake up for the industry in 2010. I'm not, NOT enjoying wearing it, but I always thought this was my favourite from the brand and it might actually not be? I'm still not sure? Just because I'm not quite as taken with it as I once was, It's still great, worth checking out, worth loving. Don't listen to me.