So I started with what I figured was the signature scent from Jeroboam and what I got was pretty standard and in my opinion, more masculine focused stuff. Opens with juniper and lemon, before settling into a potent cedar groove, both sharp with synthetic muskiness and citrus with a hint of that nutmeg but generally a woody fresh scent. I liked it, Origino is modern and more suited to a man, but I didn't love it. I thought it lasted quite well too but quiet in terms of projection. I've no idea what Jeroboam scents cost but they look expensive and judging by this they are off to a lukewarm start with me.
A raspberry that doesn't smell cheap. Iris in abundance. A floral spicy geranium. Oakmoss in abundance. Honey, civet, and an animalic musk that growls. Leathery. Dirty. This is Missoni in a nutshell. Fairly cheap to find, this first fragrance by the Italian house is vastly underrated and almost forgotten. No one seems to mention it, while it is in fact a glorious perfume like they don't make them anymore. The raspberry in the opening, helped by the geranium and honey gives off a slight tea smell; dark and black tea that is enhanced by the dryness of Iris. Iris here also shows a somewhat soapy aspect, but not your typical creamy and soft soapy aspect that luxuriates in many a vintage. The oakmoss helps make the soapy aspect green and slightly dirty. The combination somewhat recalls the medicinal aspect of Aromatics Elixir. This opening lasts for quite a while, and many will find it slightly bitter and rough. I love it. It gives it an air of distinctiveness that sets it apart from other chypres of the era. And Missoni is just that, a wonderful chypre that belongs with the best from the 70's even though launched in the 80's. Maybe that's why it never caught up; while bombastic floral orientals were hitting the shelves, Missoni showed some restraint, gave off Italian luxury, and showed there's nothing that denotes expensive perfume more than a chypre. The heart shows a more pronounced floral aspect, the geranium becomes rosier and the honey sweetens it leaving an impression of a crimson red rose. But the best part, and the part that perfume lovers dream of, is the base. Ample doses of real oakmoss, pungent and beautiful at once, what smells like real civet, and a warm animal musk that recalls ever so slightly vintage MKK from Lutens. And it lasts and lasts. It doesn't disappear; instead it lingers on skin showing at times bits and pieces of the opening. Green, aromatic, animalic, sweet. Sillage and longevity are outstanding, the edt I own from the first release packs more punch than the strongest edp's of today. Very unisex, even more masculine by today's standards, Missoni is a forgotten gem that will appeal to lovers of strong chypres, leather and oakmoss lovers with a penchant for animalic growl. Seek the edt splash in the square bottle with the half moon plastic cap. The box is like the one shown above with the typical Missoni stripes. Fairly affordable compared to other similar fragrances like Magie Noire and Mystere. (Similar in spirit)
Michelle! The mother and father of Carnal Flower and even Tubereuse Criminelle, it sways differently from the other tuberoses of the era, even though there are common elements with Chloe, launched a bit earlier. Michelle isn't in the same ballpark as Poison, Giorgio or Ysatis. There's an ethereal feel, just like in Chloe, that echoes the last days of the 70's, moving from greener floral chypres, to the 'Hey, I'm here' gorgeous 80's powerhouses, but it also has some guts. The main notes that hold Michelle together is coconut and a camphorous tuberose, with the other notes playing along. The coconut gives the creamy/buttery feel and the tuberose shows it's wintergreen aspect. Both enhance/balance each other, in a hot and cold interplay that recalls Chloe. But the difference is the lack of softness. Michelle has a bite from the carnation, the Iris isn't extremely powdery and the oakmoss is more prominent as it dries down. There's more creaminess from the ylang ylang at the heart and drydown and something more that has been described as cinnamon but that I can't pinpoint. The musk also feels warmer, more animalic, civet adds a primitive touch and the vetiver gives it a dryness that helps ground the sweetness. Is it a chypre? An oriental? Just beautiful! Michelle feels expensive, well made, and joyous. Like I said there's a certain feel that evokes the end of an era and the beginning of an other. I can picture it on someone early morning in spring walking in Manhattan in a suit and later going to dinner in a shoulder padded dress. It's not extremely powerful, but splash or spray generously and it can take you through an entire day. It's tuberose alright, but not so innocent anymore. And it needs spring and summer to be herself, when the warmth brings her to life. So if you enjoy tuberose and it's less delicate side, try Michelle. It's been discontinued but still available online and on eBay. Review based on original black box splash edt, with red stripes and gold semi circles.
I fail to see how this is much of new direction for Joop Homme? It smells pretty similar to the original to me, and could be more accurately described as a tweaked, substandard version of a fragrance which is many folk don't like anyway. I'm not totally against Joop, I used to like it years ago and I don't find the new formulations to be anywhere near as potent. (dunno whether that's a good or bad thing?) Perhaps my tastes have become more refined but I find Joop Homme a messy construction. Red King is too. Really powdered feel to this with the cinnamon and perhaps pimento to liven it up in the opening. Strangely I find it cold and bit flat, probably not what they were going for. Make no mistake I'm not apposed to a chemical soup of this nature, the likes of Davidoff Hot Water for example which has a time and place for me. However this doesn't make me think, 'oh Wow! (no pun intended regarding Joop's other new release) this fragrance has rebooted and revitalized the Homme line.' Again I think this was the intention more than likely. It's definitely different from the original when it dries down there is more of a lighter feel which probably comes from the floral, orange blossom. I'm not sure this works? I've only tried it once mind so another wear and an update to this review is on the cards but I can't see how it's going to suddenly become an inspired scent.
Joop wow! Despite the ridiculous name which I can live with, and the orange box and uninspiring design, which again I actually think is striking in its own way. I can even live with the 'have to have' gimmick of the cap being like a polo mint, something I admit is a first on me...what I couldn't live with is if this scent is awful. To tell you the truth Wow! Is not awful. It's kinda got shades of a rubbery spicebomb or a less classy Gucci PHII you know that kind of sweet spicing and direction. It opens much more sweet and pungent with a bubblegum and synthetic berry accord though before it settles to that more familiar Spicebomb territory. The point is here that Wow! is not Spicebomb and I can get how it might be heavier in cardamom but the individual notes are a bit lost in this messy composition. Basically wow has all the crass DNA you'd expect from a Joop fragrance and (although I don't currently own any) I really do say that from a place of love....just. I desperately want to like some of the pour homme flankers that have graced our shelves in recent years but they all have the same balls out disregard for subtlety and nuance. Hey some people want that and Joop certainly provide it, in spades. As you enter into this really settling down, I thought it was a bit of a weakling but it's gently projecting and do you know what? I don't hate it. It's clumsy and troublesome but by no means awful if you don't mind a sweet, slightly icky, spiced fragrance then it's worth a sniff. The silage was quite good at first as I kept getting unexpected wafts but the general strength and longevity is nothing notable. I'm not wowed by wow!
My take on this fragrance having tried it a few years back and firmly put it on the back burner as an uninspiring citrus are well...Lalique White wishes it was this! No... in fairness that's a decent parallel to draw it is a musky, metallic citrus with more than a hint of pepper but it's no where near as spicy as the Lalique, has far more enduring citrus and an interesting warm base that goes on and on long after Lalique White is a distant memory. I get the stripped back modernness that could evoke an Aventus or Sauvage and personally I think it has the metallic and musky edge of something like Silver mountain water, (other citrus Creeds)or to a lesser extent Caron L'anarchiste. It's definitely got a wearable down to earth feel and is much better quality than most designer fare following a similar blueprint. It lasts really well and actually projects better than you might imagine. If it was heavily reduced in price I'd pick up a bottle for a go to sunmmer time scent. Galloway is a nice scent.
I can't believe I bought this fragrance from Fortnum & Mason about three years ago and I still haven't posted a review...I'm getting so lax these days. Anyway...I think that amount of time and several winters (coz it's a winter thing really) of wear makes me more than qualified to give my opinion and it's that Oajan is a strong outing from this house. Although I'm relatively easy to please, there's few fragrances which I'd say I'm pretty much always in love with. Oajan very nearly has that honour but because of it's inherent, festive seasonality it needs to be rested from time to time but when revisited the love affair begins anew. Yeah it's a big, warm cinnamon, booze and honey fragrance with a deep woody resinous base...adorable. Apparently it's a copycat of some Hermes fragrance and You might think this genre is over subscribed but the balance and quality of Oajan make it stand out and shine to me. It's great, the bottle looks great too it's very heavy and the cap makes a satisfying chunky "click"...(relish the little things.) Oh and the performance and silage are good too.
Gucci guilty absolute I nearly didn't bother trying this by default such is the apathy and cynicism I feel for the Gucci Guilty line and by extension Gucci perfumes of the last few years in general. I'm so glad I didn't give in to my gut because... how wrong it was. Gucci guilty Absolute is a triumph and a sign that Gucci are back on form with something truly pushing the boundaries of designer fragrance and not just some generic crap. The opening is pure bandages and antiseptic becoming an ultra dry benzoin type accord, a very dusty, ancient, precious amber type thing. It's more than that though, it's leathery in a truly authentic way but with all the oddity of resins and a smokey earthy patchouli and vetiver. (I do get EN comparisons here) It would more than likely be too strange if not for a lightly fruity note and a touch of sweetness which develops but quickly recedes, drying down to pure leather and an almost soil like patchouli in the drydown. Im shocked at how brilliant this perfume is, because it's all the weirdness of an Indy scent but is somehow wearable enough to appeal to my girlfriend, and that really is praise indeed. The woods in this are exotic and some of the driest I've encountered in designer perfumery. Scratchy vetiver and spiced hard sandalwood minus the creaminess you often get. Although Alberto Morillias is a brilliant guy responsible for some legendary fragrances but I try to never have expectations of a perfumer, especially when they have such a diverse portfolio. In this case though he has created a true gem. Many people enjoyed Gucci pour homme I and its unflinching, spicy, masculinity I think this might signal a return to that sort of thinking in a small way. I could be wrong and it's just a fluke but super enjoyable fluke with pretty decent performance and one I will definitely be adding to my wardrobe. Update: So yeah I bought it on m way home from work last night. I'm not going to be too lavish in it's praise but I stick to what I said above, this is a very strong outing from Gucci. I know what the opening reminds me of and it's the smell of the green liquid my friend uses on customers in his tattoo shop (he calls it "green soap") it's quite astringent and although the Gucci fragrance turns to earthier textures of patchouli and eventually leather, it definitely shares similarities in the beginning. I don't know what it is about me and patchouli? I always used to hate (mainly womens) perfumes that were heavy in patchouli thinking to myself 'why on earth would she want to smell like soil?' but I go through fazes of craving the stuff. Not just the chunky, velvety, chocolate type but the full on hippy variety too and I think this is where Guilty Absolute strikes up a really great happy medium.
I'll likely get slated for giving another CC fragrance, yet another glowing review but it deserves it. Well....'glowing' might be taking it a bit far because taste wise, this is not really my thing. However, in terms of complexity, creativity and sheer quality, I have to doff my cap to Rock rose. If I'm not very much mistaken the resin Labdanum comes from a plant called the rock rose? Well it would appear that there's a type of rose call the rock rose, because the labdanum one doesn't resemble a conventional rose? Anyway I digress, if you're expecting a resin bomb then you'll be out of luck because this is a fresh uplifting scent on the surface but with something slightly more sinister lurking beneath. The opening is very bright with airy citruses and musk but with a very clean and cold feel added to by the breathy, minty vibe. It immediately strikes me as more in the Lyric Man genre of rose fragrance and as it dries down you get a little more dirt from the clary sage and a more floral feel of neroli. It's strange because although very long lasting on my skin it evolved very differently to how it did on the card and sprayed and put in a bag while shopping. Smelling it now I do get much more of a luxurious base from it and yet more confusion of something resembling a deep leathery and resinous feel, but still with all the top notes there, even the mint. I have to say this revelation was far more remarkable than if I'd just worn the fragrance because I didn't notice just what a complex creature Clive Christian Rock rose was. My girlfriend absolutely adored it from the first whiff and she wore it on the same day as me. Frankly if it was hint to get it for valentines day, she can keep wanting for this price. CC fragrances seem to be constantly rising in price, the one I bought a few years ago seems pretty reasonable compared to the hike I've seen since. Anyway...creatively this is a winner for me and something which has to explored and worn several times or you might mistake for something more linear. Great but not exceptional.
I can't help thinking this is Jo Malone's answer to Fevé deliciouese but when I actually got my nose it I realised it isn't a Tonka bean classic. It opens with promise of depth and that almondy, vanilla goodness with sharp, dense, sweet gourmand harmony. I say that but it's a slightly underwhelming opening all the same. I like tonka when it's darker and more bitter, almost coffee like hints but this leans more toward a slightly headache inducing vanilla/resinous powdery accord. Also, this is not very unisex to me an leans toward the feminine, even for a seasoned fragrance lover who will pretty much wear anything. There's not a sign of the myrrh promised as this settles, when I first sniffed the opening I commented to the SA, "huh? This is another Jo Malone, 2 note fragrance that doesn't smell especially of either note." That is pretty much the story here. The opening has something balsamic in there no doubt and it has an amber feel but as it dries down becomes more like a sandalwood and just a tonne of vanilla with some femspicing. This ceases to be a gourmand fragrance very quickly and lacks the foody, natural tones of the Dior. It's maybe the aroma chemicals used to taint this vanilla/tonka accord with something resembling 'Myrrh' but it kinda smells cheap when it's dried down. I don't hate it exactly but I'm not really enjoying it. I kinda think with more elements added and something to make it 'pop' is just sadly lacking here. The very deep dry down after 5 or 6 hours there's a transformation to a more tonka like to tonka bean and a really nice creamy amber skin scent which won me around a bit. This is cause I could smell a little more of the background which is somehow masked by a cleaner vanilla/almond accord throughout but it really wasn't enough to save this one, too little too late. Performance isn't bad and when applied heavily (like I did) it projects quite impressively for the first couple of hours, unfortunately I didn't enjoy it but undoubtedly it was there in a pungent cloud. Not a patch on resent Tonka releases but worth a sniff but completely not to my tastes. Oh and to the person who thinks this smells like Z&V This is Him I can almost get where you are coming from something about myrrh & Tonka, it does give off a sandalwood vibe. However that is where the brief similarities end and Z&V is by far superior to this in terms of smell there's no competition.
Wearing this one today and to my dismay I've not posted a review for it so here goes. To say read the top two notes and say that Mon Numero 10 is a cinnamon and incense affair would be a quick and fair summary I suppose but in no way does it justice. Simple on the surface but wear it for a few hours and the hidden depths become more apparent. There's a leathery, animalic qualities, florals with juxtapositions of clean & dirty, sweet and sour. At first I thought this was quite a modern smelling interpretation of a woody spicy scent but now I'm thinking it's much more classic in it's approach, especially in the drydown. Bertrand Duchaufour has created a balanced unisex piece in Mon Numero 10 I can't fault it. Performance and silage are not massive but perfectly acceptable and if found cheaply is an affordable gem for anyone's collection.
I feel I shouldn't be so critical of this because to most people, it's probably perfectly wearable, however I find something about Scuderia to be jarring. I get a positive lemon more than lime and I can see why it might me described at metallic because it's oddly futuristic but I've definitely come across more shiny metallics in my time. I think it's the clary sage and lavender coupled with a vaguely aquatic nature making for a confused if not unique smelling perfume which I didn't find remotely pleasant to wear. I hate to be so reductive as to compare it to cleaning products or what have you but this definitely has shades of a scented baby wipe or something? I also mentioned it was unique, so it's not your average bit of citrus and lavender... so it's an enigma but an enigma I have no interest in unravelling. Lasting power was okay and I have to say the remnant left on my clothes actually smells better the following day but still not enough to win me over. I have tried some other Ferrari fragrances and I must say I was pleasantly surprised but this Racing Red ain't for me.
I'll say it straight; it took me a while to understand Lou Lou, mostly because I was expecting something along the lines of Poison but instead I got a different animal. Yes, there are similarities, but also differences. Poison feels warm while Lou Lou feels cold. Both are complex, and it takes some time to fully gasp the story behind this 1987 gem. I'm still getting there! The main undercurrent I feel through the whole development of Lou Lou is incense. It's a kind of weird plummy tuberose (similarity) with an incensey heliotrope (difference). It starts mellow and soft, only until it warms up on skin. As soon as your body temperature melds with the scent, Lou Lou unfolds big and brash. And it's one reason I prefer Lou Lou in warmer whether, though I've only worn it twice this summer; otherwise I feel it doesn't fully develop. The first hit is incense; a strange kind of incense with tuberose, plum, and a violet tinge. I'm not particularly fond of violet notes, but here the violet is married to the heliotrope so the end result in more of an anisic powderiness. At the same time, your majesty the tuberose tries to take over. On my skin, and for the first time, she fails. The incense pushes her back, creating an atmosphere that truly feels a bit goth; it's cold, there's a blurry floral image, a fruitiness that feels adult, and a powder puf in your hand scented with violets. In a nutshell, this is Lou Lou. I'm not sure I have fully gasped her, even though I quite like what I smell; it feels as if your wearing Poison to church. I mean this in the best way possible, and I'm waiting for warmer temperatures to take her out and play and see if we can connect a bit more. But in the colder weather we're having, which is where I've worn it the most, the incense feels a bit austere and doesn't let its companions come out and play. It's still fun, heady and loud, but not quite there. Sillage is very good, as is longevity. But my bottle (vintage, 1992) will have to wait until spring and sunny days to be worn to the max. Very unisex in all the wears I've given it.
When I first tried Ysatis, it was the current formula. I thought it was nice but extremely weak and not worth the trouble. But I really enjoyed the scent so I decided to hunt down a vintage bottle, finally securing one from 1984. It was this or nothing else. And my, what a difference! Immediately recognizable as Ysatis, this first batch is also out of this world, i.e. It contains everything that is missing from today's formula; richness, power, oakmoss and civet, strangely a leathery facet, creaminess, indulgence. In a time when every powerhouse was focused mostly on tuberose (Poison), and oriental notes (Coco, Opium), Ysatis came to showcase the languid sensuality of Ylang Ylang, dressing it with exotic flowers, rich spices and mosses, and animalic notes to bring out the innate warmth of the flower. And it succeeds! The opening, highly recognizable to anyone familiar with the scent, is a creamy, banana like ylang ylang, that is accompanied by jasmine (the dirty kind) and orange blossom. Not aldehydic on me. Soon after, some carnation and bay leaf spice up the floralcy, making it grow wilder, more sensual, floriental. Becoming the definition of the word, Ysatis is spicy flowers dancing on warm skin. Sexy and sweaty, with just enough greenness to tone down the lushness. But this doesn't last long. Mid development and the animalic breath of civet appears, to stay until the drydown, making the florals once again light up with fire. There's a leathery feel that I don't know where it's coming from, which makes Ysatis even more dirty. Leather? Castoreum? The rum note is missing from my nose, it might be there, hidden under the drunken flowers, contributing to the creaminess. Smelling vintage Ysatis is a whirlwind of emotions. The current version feels diluted, flat and somehow 'cheap' in comparison, something more evident when you compare the two, and notice they share more differences than similarities. And because of this rich and layered complexity, the vintage works great on women and men alike. Lovers of strong perfumes, skanky florals, orientals and vintages in general, this one is for you. Decadent, luxurious and power built, it struts through the streets letting everyone know Ysatis is here. Amazing sillage and longevity.
Review of original mid seventies Chloe edt, Parfums Lagerfeld. Vintage original Chloe opens as an innocent white floral bouquet only to evolve in a darker way. Aldehydes, narcissus, honeysuckle, tuberose, slightly peachy, powdery, green... It is a testament to the green florals, with emphasis on florals, of the 70's. Reminiscent of Anaïs Anaïs like many have mentioned, Chloe is decidedly more rich, buttery and narcotic. Tuberose, which is the main player just can't hide, and even though there's a canopy of white flowers, the coconut lends an even more butter rich texture to the already heavy tuberose. The peach doesn't smell like peach; it feels like peach fuzz on alabaster skin. Puberty, hormones raging, sexual desires awakening. Chloe captures the moment of transition from girl to woman in the most innocent way, but at the same time it makes a woman feel more desirable thanks to its raging beauty. Despite its apparent innocence, a tender floral, the wildness of its rich flowers appealed to all women alike. Like tuberose, which starts pristine and virginal, and as the night approaches it becomes a vixen, deadly, narcotic. It is a lush rich floral, which allows you to see what you are ready to see. It captures the image I have of the 70's, and along the way, it seems to show a tender sexual awakening. No wonder it was embraced by many filling the air with its scent. I never experienced Chloe before, but as a lover of tuberose, I found an incredibly well executed rendition, that is rich, elegant, full of force and ready to take over. The emancipation of a flower. As always, no gender label for me. I wear it, I let it take over, and I dream of a time when everything felt possible. Ideal in spring/summer, where the heat makes it come completely alive on skin. Heavy sillage and very good longevity. Side note: from what I've found, the very original release came in pure parfum, the gorgeous bottle with its Cala Lilly stopper, a silver travel atomizer of Parfum, edt splash in clear bottle, edt spray in frosted glass bottle and accompanying body care. Many mention an edp which I believe was released somewhere in the 80's to rival with the powerhouses of the decade. By then it was already Parfums Chloe so I suspect there was already a tweak in the formula.
I'll keep this brief because Noble Incense needs little introduction or explanation and my constant gushing will have people thinking I'm some kind of shill for Bella Bellissima...well I'm not just a vocal cheerleader. Noble Incense starts out with that oriental, balsamic spice vibe in which you get lightheaded, as if walking into an opium den complete with the punctuating twang of exotic, harp like instruments...well I did anyway. It's got the labdanum and other resins I love a solid woodiness infinitely complex and although a domiinatant note, so much better than the straight forward olibanum other houses seem to churn out. I can get that there's great sandalwood in here and even papyrus than I'm not so keen on usually but frankly this fragrance can't and doesn't put a foot wrong. It lasts ages, projects and is simply briliiant. There you go!
FINALLY!!!! Fragrantica have added the odd few Bella Bellissima fragrances they had missed from the database. Quite simply Vetiver Spice IS the greatest vetiver fragrance I've ever tried. It's a triumph, a complete knockout comprising all the best things about vetiver fragrances and packaging them in a high quality and incredibly long lasting package. The balance of this composition is perfect, opening with citruses, retreating into peppery spices, with clean aromatic cardamom at the back. Even more interest is injected into this one by the hint of absinthe and even a bit of a creamy texture (maybe the vanilla?) The main thing is that the vetiver is truly enhanced, taking centre stage and not being overpowered by interesting surrounding notes. Right into the drydown you get a smooth, slightly smokey woods it's absolutely brilliant! I'm no huge vetiver fan, I like it very much in various guises but wouldn't list it as one of my favourite notes/accords/materials. Please, please believe me if you are a vetiver fan this has to be sampled because I'm sure it will be appreciated by everyone from the grey vetiver lovers to the Encre noire fanatics this has something for everyone and above all quality Vetiver that will last 10-12 hours easy. Sublime, yet more reasons why Bella Bellissima is one of my favourite houses.
Okay... so... I went into Zara today to try the new oud perfumes. Unfortunately they didn't have them in my local store, not sure why but I decided to try another one that has been released recently. Seeing that it had tobacco in the title I thought I might discover a deep and relatively cheap fragrance of good quality judging by some of the other Zara scents I've tried. However, this fragrance is not dark or masculine in the slightest! Not necessarily a bad thing though, in fact I quite enjoy the smell...momentarily. It starts out with a very sweet, fruity, thick, syrup type texture, which is more of a gourmand thing than tobacco to me. Although playful does have an air of quality to it and I'm usually a sucker for childish, overly saccahrine scents like this but I need to put my sensible reviewers head on in this case. As it dries down it becomes the most candy, cupcake, vanilla fragrance imaginable and where it starts smelling very much like the strawberry shortcake doll of the 70's 80's. I don't know if anyone remembers those? Yeah so kinda, dolls head plastic and a vanilla... strawberry. This does mellow further becoming less sweet and has some subtle woods creeping in but if you're expecting tobacco prepare to be disappointed. It could be there in the very broadest and vaguest terms perhaps more so in the opening? but I'm totally reaching there because I certainly didn't detect it for sure. I like the smell but is this really a great men's fragrance? Not really. I have to say it projects a lot to begin with and is generally a good performer, worth checking out but something which actually began to become cloying and a bit annoying in the end.
Warning: this is technically not a review, but rather a very long love letter/tale/diary page where I reminisce on my ongoing experience with this scent, as well as a high praise to competent, patient, insightful, and knowledgeable sales assistants. Proceed at your own risk. ;) I happened upon it some years ago, by accident. Picture this: one cool sunny winter late morning in Rome, the air is crisp but the sun has a touch of warmth, we're close to Christmas so decorations and lights are on and the atmosphere is festive. I was walking on a street full of shops when I suddenly marched into an old, slightly upscale, and very well-known perfume shop, went to one of the sales assistant with a request: I told him that I recently tried Prada Infusion d’Iris, liked the cleanliness and soapiness of the scent, but was very let down by the appallingly poor staying power (especially when compared to the price). Would he be able to recommend a similar perfume that wouldn’t be gone after an hour? He asked me a few questions, I mentioned, incidentally, that I tried and liked a lot Bas de Soie by Lutens in the recent past but that was not quite what I had in mind. If by this time you’re thinking how on earth can you go from Infusion d’Iris to Teint de Neige that have almost nothing in common but the iris note I would agree, but bear with me. I cannot praise enough how the sales assistant read me and listened to me, because he not only took in my appearance - brunette, mid-20s, red lipstick, cat eye, minimalist dark clothes, red wool coat - but also saw deeper than that. I have some friends that jokingly call me Diva, which I am anything but by the way, it’s just I am a little aloof when you first meet me but then I warm up. Anyway, he anticipated my needs and introduced me to something I didn’t know I liked myself: powder. I mean, I knew and I even loved the smell of talc powder, ten years before as a teenager I had briefly been obsessed with Bvlgari Petits and Mamans, what I mean is that I was not aware of my love for powdery scents on a conscious level. He said after a while that since I said no to Bas de Soie, which was one of his first choices for me (he definitely picked on the aloofness there), he was going to go on another route. We talked a little and eventually reduced the samples to three: Lutens Daim Blond, Teint de Neige and a third scent that for the life of me I can’t remember. After smelling them on the strips I discarded the forgotten third and spritzed the other two on the skin. At first I liked them both but almost immediately got the apricot in Lutens and I’m not really a fan of fruity perfumes, so that was more and more a no every minute that went by. On the other hand, with Teint de Neige, in addition to being love at first sniff, the infatuation grew with the passing of time. I didn’t buy it that day, the very competent shop assistant advised that I spend the day with it and see how it evolved on my skin. Not only it evolved beautifully, I could still smell it the next day after a shower. I went back a week later and got a bottle. Now it’s become my signature, I wear it almost every day, in winter and also in summer because I don’t believe in the seasonality of scents (sorry not sorry for the people around me), and although I refrain to perfume during daytime in summer it’s not really out of concern for the others, just for fear of the perfume reacting with the light. I am vain and selfish like that! ;) Sillage and staying power, for me, are huge to the point that the more aware people recognise me by it, like I went to a party at a friend’s house and the hostess, that knows me quite well but didn’t know I had arrived, asked from another room if I was there only because she recognised the trail of perfume in the house. Christmas time a couple of years ago I went back to see my parents and at night, when my mother hugged me at the airport said she missed my perfume (as well as me lol) which I applied in the morning, and then she said she smelled it again the next morning when I walked in the kitchen for breakfast. A lot of people commented on it when I enter a shop or on a train carriage. In conclusion, this perfume now it’s become me, I inhabit it, it’s a million things to me, like lace lingerie under a comfy cashmere jumper, it’s old and new, a silk vintage dress worn with a leather biker jacket. I’m not saying it’s a complex perfume, or a revolutionary concept, I think I feel this way because I identify with it so much by now. And even if I know it’s ridiculous I feel like it’s mine and mine only, also because I’ve never walked past anyone else who wore it. I think I also like it so much because it compensates my aloofness, as if with its powdery sweetness told other people that I’m not the Ice Queen that I might seem at first. Ultimately I think that was my unconscious reason for writing off Bas de Soie from the start, that’s one perfume I like a lot but probably fear it would play too much into my perceived standoffishness. One last thing: yes it’s true, Iris by L’erbolario, which I would have loved to love since Villoresi is not really in my price range, is almost the exact copy, albeit much flatter, but compared side by side with Teint de Neige smells so cheap and chemical and plasticky it literally hurts. Back when I still lived in Italy it was not unusual to walk past women doused in the knockoff, it was very popular for a while but, dear oh dear, the headaches that I got smelling that!
They say that when a perfume suits you and you enjoy it, it simply works. The sillage is good, the longevity is good, it feels simply good wearing it. They say so, or am I saying so? I didn't have high hopes for Galop, and frankly I wasn't even interested in trying it, mostly for the price which is around 240€ for 50ml pure parfum. Plus, even though Hermès is quite elegant and distinctive, I'm not a fan of JCE, nor his transparent aquarelle signature. I feel that a house with such history could opt for a bolder trademark. But I'm afraid that belongs in the past with legends such as Doblis, Equipage, Bel Ami, Caleche... No matter how good or bad the reformulations, the quality is there but something is not; boldness. And surprisingly I found it in Galop. First standalone creation of Christine Nagel, it clearly follows the path created by Ellena in transparency and watercolor but it adds something more; a kick. While following the codes of Hermès, it adds a bit of sensuality, and shows that the nose behind follows the path but leads the way. And that's a good thing because Nagel isn't Ellena, and her creations have to show that. Galop opens on my skin with a rose water accord. Rose water that smells honeyed. I would have preferred a darker rose, but then again I'd also have preferred many things that aren't allowed in perfume today. Rose water, middle eastern style but without the cliche of oud, spicy saffron in small quantities and a leather accord that brings to mind older but not vintage Cuir de Russie, with a somewhat dirty soapiness, a facet of leather sometimes found in older creations that didn't rely on isobutyl quinolene. I don't get the quince and the osmanthous is barely there, just adding a slight juiciness in the same way Ellena's creations added a watery note. (The Nagel difference?) Although quite linear, I find it interesting. The interplay is between the rose dominance, the leather dominance, and a spicy ménage a trois that shows different facets during the day. I get the same notes along a nice not-so-clean musk that appears during mid development and stays throughout, finally showing a bolder leather at drydown. While modern and pleasing, it echoes the older Kelly Caleche and manages to smell elegant, slightly dirty, and appropriate for most occasions. It feels as a timid first attempt, but underneath it there are some interesting aspects that make me look forward to what mrs Nagel has to offer in subsequent creations. On my skin, there's excellent sillage and all day longevity, which I appreciate given the price asked. Don't approach it expecting a powerhouse because it is not, but there is something that shakes the image of the house a bit, and I'm sure it's just the beginning. Perfectly unisex (at least in Spain it's being promoted as such) and work friendly.
I agree with BurtReynolds (not a sentence I thought I'd ever say :)) in that I don't understand folk who vote to dislike without having sampled the fragrance. As some point out, the fragrance is made available pre-release to people in the industry but lets face it I doubt they are the ones voting.
Oh I also just wanted to say that although there has undoubtedly been a decline in originality on YSL's main designer lines since the likes of M7 and Rive Gauche, Being part of L'Oreal doesn't make them incapable of making a decent fragrance. Those High end leather & rose ones they've made in recent years (despite being stupidly expensive) were pretty good I thought. People shouldn't cling to the glory days forever and at least try to show a little optimism maybe? It might be good, can't be any worse than that Ultime one. Oh and another thing...folks moaning about 'Yet another L'nuit flanker' I don't get it? L'Nuit doesn't have that many flankers does it? Unless we are counting the L'Homme line as well...then they might have a point. This will be the 4th one... 3rd If you don't count the Parfum which was not great but okay, The Frozen one which I quite liked and the L'Intense which was pretty poor... I'll give you that. L'electrique might just be good...you never know and that's the beauty of being into fragrance...the surprise of having your expectations exceeded.
The juicy citruses come off in the opening notes as a sharp grapefruit to my nose. Then it's a combination of cedar, and vetiver, pepper which makes for a glorious combination under that citrus. The opening is actually a little reminiscent of a fragrance I acquired a few weeks back, which unfortunately isn't in the Database, Lange Orient Treasure. The thing that sets this apart from Terre d'Hermes although it's very, very similar (especially when dried down) is the hint of florals in the middle of this fragrance. It's a very slight effect and could be due to the violet but is definitely identifiable as geranium, which is actually very in keeping with the overall tone of the Infinite and keeps things masculine. Overall my opinion is that Bentley Infinite a very good citrus vetiver fragrance and when you enter that realm it is hard not to smell like Terre d'Hermes. Even the grapefruit, distinctly different in the opening becomes more like a bitter orange, the florals are not pronounced enough to make a significant difference to this fragrance, especially after the first hour or two. I was encouraged by the SA in the shop to buy the EDP which was not available to sample although she assured me it was 'Stronger and longer lasting' well if my experience with TdH EDP & EDT is anything to go by I'm pretty sure the opposite would be the case. In summary, There's not quite enough here to make me want it due to having TdH but that's not to say everyone will agree. There's flashes of something there...a new kind of masculine twist on the Hermes formula maybe with some tweaks, amp up the pepper, geranium and violet and perhaps we'd have a really good alternative version of TdH but sadly this is just slightly lacking. Still a good fragrance though and pretty decent performance but nothing outstanding.
To say I want this perfume more for the bottle than the fragrance itself, might make me appear fickle and diminish the status of what is a very lovely smelling thing. However, we must face facts...the stopper on this bottle is awesome and seeing the bottle in real life is no disappointment, it really is that cool. The fragrance itself displays the typical restraint you get in most Penhaligon's, trading off truly deep opulence with genuinely wearable appeal. They might not always (in fact rarely) reach dizzying heights but they consistently release fragrances I believe to have been steadily crafted and considered, Lord George is no different. It opens with a boozy amber, instantly warm and likable which settles to a exotic wood/vanilla vibe. It's undeniably sweet but offset by it's grown up booziness and some of that bitter, coffee type element from tonka bean. Lord George isn't a full on gourmand such as other recent Tonka releases like Feve delicieuse. Instead it's focused on the woods and amber to give it that more male emphasis. I enjoyed it tremendously, opens great and just gets better in the drydown due to some great notes which complement each other well. Lord George is the definition of more than the sum of it's parts and like the other one's in this range, has some notes or qualities that are hard to place. It is quite long lasting, especially on clothes but nothing monumental and showing the usual lack luster performance of the brand. (although I found it completely acceptable) This is where most people take issue with the brand and if you're forking out this much then you are entitled to moan. However, If you do decide to buy you will be treated to a nice smelling winter fragrance and a wonderful bottle to adorn your perfume shelf. I will probably get this one at some point.
Quick review update here, while backtracking slightly on my initial appraisal, I will both agree and take issue with some of the things said by Nick Zee. I don't know if it's just the fact that I actually like ambroxan but I kinda expect modern compositions to contain it and this didn't immediately scream it to me. However upon wearing it on Christmas day I will concede that the shaving cream element is that soapy, clean, ambery, musk that some people might consider cheap or doesn't belong in a high end fragrance like this one... I don't agree but I notice it more now I've had a few proper wears I think it's unfair to slate the perfumer for this as I still think it's a very interesting composition and worthy of the Penhaligon's name. I also agree that this stuff is overpriced and the performance is a bit lacking. It's strange because I did sample it extensively before I got the full bottle, maybe this one is a little style over substance but I made it clear I was getting it for the bottle mainly, something I never do but this one was too good to miss.
A perfect compliment to the Men's fragrance but not because it's contrasting but rather, very similar. The approach and base are exactly the same sort of thing...a milky, vanilla/sandalwood which is really very nice, the key differences being this no balsamic or incense notes which are so prevalent in This is Him and has more playful, feminine top notes. Something in here reminds me of a Tokyo Milk scent, slightly floral but generally creamy, I really like the subtlety of this one. It's very understated and lasts longer than you might expect but don't think it's going to project hard, these stay close. I really like it to the point I was trying to encourage my girlfriend to get it to wear in solidarity with mine. Please don't think I'm tight, I would buy it for her but frankly I spoil her as it is and she doesn't appreciate fragrant gifts as much as I would. Oh and they have those gimmicky Armani style bottles (whatever that fragrance was called?) that fit together and look like they are embracing each other. Z&V have two kinda jagged, climbing walls that interlock which is much cooler. I forgot to say that crucially, I would wear this one myself.
