Furyo, from Jacques Bogart was released in 1988. The perfumer behind this creation is Ron Winnegrad and Thierry Wasser. It has the top notes of Amber, Bay Leaf, Bergamot, Castoreum, Coriander, Fig Leaf, Juniper Berries, Lavender, Musk, Tobacco, and Vetiver, middle notes of Castoreum, Civet, Patchouli, Tobacco, and Vetiver, and base notes of Amber and Musk.
What. A. Beast. Furyo is an animalic powerhouse in the league of vintage Kouros, and to some extent Balenciaga. Extremely powerful, decidedly wild, with an animalic sweetness that is to die for! I'm happy that the top notes haven't faded, as the herbal opening is invigorating in a way I have experienced very few times. Laurel, extremely aromatic leads the way. No fig to my nose, and a slight zing from the juniper. I wasn't sure about the laurel but it brought to mind the slight green feel of vintage Opium, the only other fragrance I've noticed this note. The vetiver feels smoky and the tobacco note compliments the feel. The heat is bringing out a patchouli that is extremely nice! Dark brown, sweet, dirty. It is the whole plant, not fractions or sanitized distillations; this is a die hard absolute that makes me love it even more. It doesn't list floral notes but there must be something in there. Jasmine perhaps, with a smidgen of indole. Carnation? The spiciness says yes! But the star from the second hour onwards is the civet. A powdery dirtiness that high quality civet is known for. And there's heaps of it. Talk about a clean/dirty dichotomy! If castoreum adds the leather feel, there's also quite a bit of it in there, along with a slight urine note (honey?) that I love! Dirty and animalic but in the style of older perfumes; simply irresistible. And to top it off, if the above aren't enough, a good dose of oakmoss to make it a truly animalic chypre. It smells like a million bucks, without the price tag. If you enjoy Kouros, Antaeus, Balenciaga or Lapidus pour homme, even vintage Paloma Picasso, Furyo is a hidden jewel. Just as animalic as the first two, but with a more pronounced raw patchouli, it is far more affordable than the rest, and bottles still show up on eBay. Just get an atomizer first to decant, as most of the bottles of the first release come as splash. Very powerful, long lasting and extremely sexy. A perfect example of 80's chypres!