Smells to me as if the bubblegum note wasn't present this would be a half decent fragrance. Sadly it's the dominance of this synthetic, sickly element & lack of finesse in the other notes which makes EaB a disappointment. I do smell a kind of faint frankincense vibe and something which smells like a couple of the CdG incense series in the opening then it goes downhill rapidly. I've toyed with the idea of a bubblegum smell and frankly I just don't want to smell like that. Lots of other fragrances achieve this effect by mistake (I imagine?) rather than actually embracing it the way this does. This is even more annoying than James Heeley Bubblegum chic which is at least powerful, a blessing in disguise that EaB doesn't last all that long. You have to take your hat off to Etat Libre d'Orange for thinking outside the box. It's just sometimes what's IN the box will do just fine. They've out quirked their own quirkiness threshold for me this time.
This was my first review (written ages ago but not posted for some reason??) of Roja Dove and Aoud was good but having tried the range I'm somewhat a fan of these fragrances. Well, well, well Roja Dove fragrances! Hyped and bashed in equal measure. I'm going to try to get to the bottom of this and hopefully bring some clarity to proceedings. I've only tried two from this exclusive line and Aoud was the first one. The reason I didn't hurriedly put pen to paper (or finger to iPhone) to document the momentous occasion will become apparent. The sample vile looked extremely inviting, containing a thick, oily, dark, dark amber goop. As soon as I tried it on my skin I got a smoky ploom of woody Oud reminiscent of fragrances from countless houses but Zerjoff sprung to mind due to a distinct 'diesel' quality. This is backed with hints of resins and tiny florals peeking through. It's nice...very nice. I made the mistake of thinking that Aoud was a lovely thing which oozed quality but was linear and somehow lacking in depth other than the great Oud and labdanum. It's only now that I've tried it a couple of times that I can appreciate the subtle complexities, which almost makes me want to rethink and revisit several fragrances, to see if I change my mind on them. As I said I tried RD Aoud a few weeks ago now and haven't thought a great deal about it since, until I got it out for my girlfriend to try. She loves strong orientals, Ouds as well as quite feminine florals so she's pretty well rounded. I should maybe have given her no prior knowledge about the fragrance but I decided to give her a quick bio of Dove and the price of this juice. Her reaction was wild! She absolutely couldn't get enough of this scent. I bore/bombard her with allsorts of fragrances on a pretty much daily basis and normally reactions are fairly blasé but this provoked a BIG response. I then did something I never do, post trying a fragrance myself. I proceeded to look at other reviewers on YouTube etc...just to see what the buzz was. I came across one guy who seemed very balanced and knowledgable about perfume and the process of perfumery in general, who was offering up his opinions. Have to say his description 'Stale Newport cigarette's and the cheapest feminine drugstore perfume.' I just don't get? To say that this fragrance gives NO hints as to the quality of ingredients used, shows a fundamental lack of understanding about perfume. Whatever you think of the composition or what your tastes might be you have to give credit where it's due. I did appreciate his point about the use of 'finest ingredients' and what people mean by that and 'Can you smell it?' I thought he was missing a trick slightly assuming that people think 'fine quality ingredients' mean 'naturals' then going on to make the point that Amouage readily use synthetics. Well the truth is, majority of houses do regardless of price and I think it's a bit patronising to assume that other frag heads don't know this. when I say something smells 'synthetic' I don't mean it in the literal sense, same with 'cheap' or whatever? It's difficult to explain and for another time perhaps? The point is Roja Dove Aoud is a very opulent and strong scent which delivers what I expected. Anyone who is looking for the holy grail of fragrances will probably be a little disappointed because high price and exclusivity don't guarantee anything. Aoud is very, very good...even great for me. It's by no means that original or groundbreaking and if you think it's worth the money then good for you, there's a ton of fragrances to get before this one would figure on my list....but eventually I think it would. Great projection at first, great longevity as you would expect.
Love at first sniff!!! What a fragrance!!! I feel a bit vulgar trying to break it down but here goes. There's definitely patchouli in here and that might account for the chocolatey vibe. I also get a cocktail of sweet balmy incense elements of ladnaum, Myrrhe, opoponax just about everything I love. The Oud is present but not that prominent at first but comes on stronger and stronger in the drydown which is sublime. It's an interesting mixture of Carner cuirs, jubilation 25, black Afgano, Duro, Myrrhe imperial, bois noir but with the patchouli of Hindu grass. This fragrance might even surpass some of my alltime favourites, Pardon is quite simply a revelation, brilliant and something I would wear in a heartbeat. Despite vague similarities across the board, the more you discover about perfume the more you refine 'exactly' what it is that you're into. Pardon delivers it...what it can't do is recapture the enthusiasm or the sense of discovery the first time I smelled certain types of perfume but it has a damn good try. By some strange miracle Pardon is not that strong...yes you heard me right. Of course it's strong, it's a Nasomato perfume for gods sake but in my experience this is not as strong as Black Afgano or Duro. A top top fragrance no doubt and has that signature Nasomatto thing about it.
Immediately to my nose it's a bright start quite crowd pleasing, certainly I liked it! The odd mixture of elements which is a signature of this houses slightly wacky but innovative creations. That juxtaposition of slightly green, almost aldehydic opening which settled to a kind of vetiver but with a developing vanilla behind, shouldn't work but just does. The first thing I noticed as it settled was the resinous nature and real quality at that, myrrh and opoponax creating a hint of a medicinal vibe but then mixing well with a creamy and nutty gourmand element. I'd describe the top notes as 'foreground' because just as you've zoomed into the heart of the picture, the main theme of resinous vanilla, it forces you to step back slightly and reveals something sharper (nearly metallic) green and fresher from the beginning. Sure it's a bit weird (didn't you expect that?) but very interesting as it develops. This like many Etat Libre d'Orange fragrances just works! Fat electrician is to me yet more three dimensional perfume very well executed. Much like some of their others I've given a rave review but I'm still unsure whether I'd want to wear them on a regular basis...such an odd thing...the focus being a chaotic nature which is obviously a huge contradiction...that's Etat Libre d'Orange for me. I appreciate the artistry but could I live with it? Possibly not.
Being one who's late to the party when it comes to certain Hermes fragrances, I'm unaware of the joys of the original formulation for many of these creations. I'm having to settle for apparently pale modern approximations which sometimes don't even capture the essence of the original. Well...these originals must have been something very special indeed because I love Bel Ami, Equipage and Rocabar in their newer guises! Rocabar is a complex nutty, woody scent which is entirely manly but soft around the edges at the same time. The blending is supreme to the point where it becomes more of a singular experience rather than a journey through notes. I'd say you pretty much get a linear but rich scent from start to finish and for me that is the sign of a real classic fragrance. Cypress and cedar are noticeable floating on a resinous base with a classical spicy puff of carnation. I absolutely love this fragrance, superbly wearable and with a touch of class but nothing showy, performance was okay... Great stuff.
I echo many of the sentiments expressed below about this fragrance and Marly in general. They are all pretty excellent fragrances minus a couple just for taste reasons but like any house they do have a style and it seems to tend towards the warm and oriental. I found myself stuck between this, Oajan and Herod (eventually opting for Oajan) because they were all very good. I suspect like with Oajan secrets and extra nuances will be released on further inspection I've no doubt but even without that insight, I instantly fell for Kuhuyan. Helitrope and I don't really get on but this is a delightful blend of an almond/vanillin/suede and woods...probably the best way to describe it. The heart notes are pleasantly floral and slightly powdery violet and base is tonka and warm amber and again...probably oud? This is a true composition with nothing over stepping it's bounds and actually making for quite a tame fragrance. These elements don't spring to mind as being my favourite but undoubtedly work together. Quality is good, longevity is a bit lacking but I'd definitely like to try it again.
Apart from childishly giggling at the name, this fragrance has a lot to offer. I tried it in Fortnum & Mason and was impressed by this juice. A curious blend of woody notes which opens with a blast of lime citrus and pink pepper then a masculine body of cedar, guaic wood and vetiver. I've no doubt there's oud in there but I'd call this more of a blend of complex woods rather than a straight forward oud based scent. This is a lovely blend of notes to create a very wearable scent which without blowing me away was clearly of good quality and lasted well on my skin. I'd love to get hold of a sample and wear this again properly because I'm sure it would grow on me and go from a like to a love.
Well I've finally sampled John Varvartos fragrances and superficially I've been very satisfied with them. I say that because across the board they open fantastically then just disappoint massively as they drydown. Unfortunately It's the same story with Varvatos Artisan but maybe to a slightly lesser degree. The opening is a sweet juicy clementine which is very accurate and is obviously floating on a base of woody notes and a fizzy, green note of galbanum. This is all very nice but then starts to retreat from this fresh and natural scent into something slightly more white floral, orange blossom and a hint of ginger. That's all in the first 20 mins or so and I'm thinking Artisan is a bit of a winner. Then it seems to change into a bit of a sour car crash after the orange/tangerine note subsides. Tomato leaf is what I get on my skin...yep...a greeny, slightly metallic note and that mixed with a white floral that plainly, just isn't very nice and certainly a contrast from the lovely opening. Performance is pretty poor (lasting 2 hours if that?) but this fragrance is interesting and the opening is very nice so just for that I give JV Artisan a thumbs up.
I've done all these reviews in the wrong order now! I managed to write a really in depth one for Cuir de Russie and the proceeded to delete it never to be seen again. That was my first and very positive experience of Chanel Les Exclusifs, I don't know why but I was dreading trying this. I think I thought it may smell like Serge Lutens Cedre for some bizzare reason...kinda pissy after all it turns out to be a sheldrake creation. Thank heavens it wasn't the opening is very clean and sappy green aldehydes but with an instant spice to it. I'd say juniper and cypress in terms of notes listed here and you could be fooled by thinking this was a very lightweight fresh woody scent. Then the next few minutes of development, and a very focused smokey vetiver emerges. This dries everything out and combined with the gorgeous spicy edge of sandalwood makes for an extremely refined vetiver and up there with the best I've smelled. The comparisons with Encre Noire are obvious as a benchmark of ethereal, earthy quality. I think the main difference is that Sycomore doesn't reveal it's hand as quickly as EN and as such develops slightly differently. This is a good fragrance.
Not sure if I've already reviewed this one but in any case I've revisited Sycomore EDT in the last week or so, as I feel it's one of the more popular Les Exclusifs but one of the ones I'm least familiar with. It's a vetiver! That won't be a big shock to those of you reading a review on Chanel Sycomore and I hate to pick on the previous reviewer (below) coz it's a bit of dick move but I am a dick so it's fine and perfectly in character, So I would say that to compare this to Encre Noir is bizarre to put it lightly. This juniper fresh interpretation of vetiver is a million miles from the gloomy, melancholy... no, abject misery of the Lalique, that to say they are different 'vibes' is an understatement. Encre is brilliant for what it is, about the most dreary day imaginable, I'm talking like Manchester dank! But it's construction is so rudimental, so Iso E and vetiveryl acetate and not a lot else, and while Sycomore EDT is seemingly simple too, it's key difference is that it feels alive, it feels rounded like a good Chanel should, and even though this is one of the least quintessentially 'Chanel' Chanel's I could reference, and it's not even bringing anything new to the table in terms of vetiver composition ideas, nor do I really even particularly like this style of fragrance from a personal point of view, I have to say that it is a supremely well made and satisfying perfume.
Wow! This is an uncompromising fragrance. Rather than being warm this stuff is positively hot! An aggressive amber, softened and feminized with floral notes but lets get it right, this is a hearty, balmy resin fragrance. It's almost syrup-like intensity opening with a spiced oriental feel and a puff of powder. It's got a bit of the old style straight benzoin, Bain de Caron thing coupled with a dressier tuberose, which is prominent in the opening and fading into the dry down but for me providing a great compliment for the amber accord. Tuberose is one of those love/hate things for me but in this I just get the good stuff. The sweet sharpness is more like labdanum than olibanum but either way it's prominent throughout...another thing I like. There's a creaminess of sandalwood in here too, maybe coming out more on my skin and conspiring with the amber accord again to intoxicate. I see this as a floriental fragrance which I can understand some people considering to be unisex and frankly I could pull it off. Having said this it reminds me so fully of a confident, sexy, more mature woman sort of vibe? For this association in my mind I couldn't wear it but be damned sure I'd be attracted to a woman wearing it. It's a bit naughtier than the kind of scent your mum might wear, I like to think more of a liberated cougar type rocking Halston Amber Woman. It's no joke performance wise too...goes on nice and strong, doesn't last excessively long but projects really well for a good couple of hours before retreating to a low skin scent. Update: My girlfriend has been wearing samples of this the past few days and it comes across very tuberosy on her especially at first.
I'll be honest...I totally impulse bought this fragrance and now I'm not 100% sure about it? John Varvatos is a brand rarely seen in the UK until now, ironic that a week after I come back from the states (where I saw this stuff all over & didn't sample) I end up buying a JV fragrance at home. Anyway I knew nothing about the brand except for mixed reviews on here and have managed to aquire 5 (4 mini's) and this one due to the fact I quite liked the lot. Dark Rebel seemed at first to be a very interesting, dark, smokey scent with a slightly mysterious edge if not a bit of a silly name. The opening is of uber dark ebony woods, tobacco, leather and styrax to my nose made this very appealing. An raw animal quality shrouded in spiced rum and a strong cinnamon note which dies down quickly into a heart of familiar mainstream fodder. I have to admit this is a classic case of a really mediocre fragrance masquerading as something quite unique and special for the opening 10 minutes. Shame really because I genuinely sat up and noticed Dark Rebel. It's not doom and gloom though the skin scent this dies down to is a sugary, Captain Morgan which is there throughout but somehow smells slightly cheap as apposed to that chaotic opening. In summary 'Niche opening, designer dry down.' Performance is average bordering more on the poor side but you know what??? I'm not disheartened because this fragrance takes you on a journey, all be it a short and slightly disappointing one ...but a journey nonetheless.
Let ignore two things for a moment... One... that this is a Bond No.9 fragrance and as such fairly pricey. and two...That it smells like many fresh scents you've smelled before. I'm perhaps slightly biased as I sampled this scent in the Bond no.9 shop which is almost directly at the end of the High Line, shortly after enjoying a sunny stroll down it. The High Line is truly a great idea by the way and something more cities with similar elevated train lines should adopt, if they can. What I did notice was lots of hardy grasses rather than colourful, delicate flowering plants. (although there is some of course.) Anyway High line the fragrance opens with a burst of that freshness and citrus. I have to say... I wish I got rhubarb from this but I just don't sadly. The sales assistants assured me there was tulips in there and without being specific I'd say a non-sweet floral aroma is there. Hyacinth is absolutely present not something I'm over keen on when pungent but here it gives a nice 'WET' grassy quality. This has to have a woody base for it to sit on and adhere to, I'm sure it's there but I can't really detect it. Maybe it is getting lost in a clean floral musk, which is green and pleasant till the bitter end in the drydown. I like the fact that some thought has gone in to this fragrance about the high line and although when all is told it smells like a generic green/floral scent, the quality of ingredients is still apparent to me. Performance is good and subtly projects as long as you don't go mad with application. High Line is a lovely smelling scent just not one for me and not something I would be looking to add to my wardrobe.
I have to say that in store this was an instant hit with me and having worn one of the samples I got, my opinion hasn't changed much. This is a decent brew and I can see why it would have mass appeal (I seem to recall the SA telling me this was a best seller) very well blended fresh woody/citrus combo which can't really go all that wrong. What it can do is pale into insignificance against many designer scents which have the same brief, and again I think it doesn't do that. This is by virtue of the fact that there's a perceived quality here from a fresh juniper then vaguely tropical friut opening which is quickly manned up with a little dryness of cedar and even hint of birch some which I think is coming from a vetiver core. When I say 'vaguely' tropical fruit I actually mean quite an accurate pineapple note, which in no way reminds me of Aventus. While on the subject as it seems to be a issue of contention (certainly with the reviewer below) Scent of Peace oddly DOES remind me of Aventus but not because it smells even remotely similar, but simply because it seems squarely aimed at that preppy crowd who want a wearable, designer scent but are looking for something slightly more exclusive. This could just as easily remind me Bleu de Chanel smell wise but I think this is fresher and more up my street. Yep...Bond No.9 have a fragrance I would definitely wear here when this dries all the way down it's smells very masculine works well with my skin, the performance is good and for the price, perfectly acceptable. Update: Yeah I said this reminded me of Aventus but doesn't smell like it....errrr...yeah the reason it reminds me of Aventus? Because it does in fact smell quite a bit like Aventus. Only for the first hour or so and no where near as brash/smokey or pineapple like. I have to say this is a supreme wear, I've thoroughly enjoyed it's gentle smell throughout the day. Then a new aspect, a crayon/pencil shaving like, fruity/creamy sandalwood sort of thing which I never detected before in the base. It puts me in mind of Donna Karen Fuel for Men/Aventus and something else...rest assured scent of peace has more dimensions than first expected...and I kinda want it.
Wall street conjures up images of Gordon Gekko or Valentino suit clad, 80's twats sniffing cocaine and talking into brick mobile phones with a big rubber breadsticks coming out of the top, in true Patrick Bateman style. Bond No.9 's gimmick of naming the scents after parts of New York city is something I really love about the brand. I've got a real soft spot in my heart for NYC but I don't really associate a bright n breezy aquatic scent with the hustle and bustle world of the financial district. You could argue 'what does a street or neighborhood smell of anyway?' which is a fair point but other than being fairly close to the water I don't get the connection with Wall street here? I'd say wherever you are on Manhattan you're pretty close to water...even slap bang in the middle! Anyway... Words like "Aquatic?", notes like cucumber? This doesn't inspire confidence in me at all. Cucumber is a wonderful juicy, natural, smell but in perfume terms its usually strongly accentuated and curdled with creamy almond, vanilla, tonka or sandlewood etc...which for me make it nauseating. This is different...not accurate smelling but fresh and works really well in the aquatic setting. I do get hints of Sel Marine, similar salty seabreeze with none of the horrible elements or suncream. It's so vaguely salty, perfectly well handled seasoning and could be down to seaweed or less likely (more bizarrely) down to pistachio! More of a cooling, fruity, slightly metallic seaside exotic drink. There's a drier bitter orange note in there for sure and amorphous citrus and obvious vetiver. The base that it dries down too is warm with a puff of light white musk, yet still quite metallic which is fairly anomalous. This is a good one from Bond No.9 then...okay performance, unisex but totally at home on this man and even masculine leaning. To me this is better than the very pleasant Creed Millesime Imperial (Which seems like a worthy comparison)due to being more interesting. Performance is okay and I like the smell a lot...thumbs up for Wall street.
I've voted 'Like' on this one but frankly it's just because it's a pleasant smell not a truly great perfume. If you can get past the overbearing fruity opening and the incredibly shampoo-like quality which dominates the whole experience, there's some merit in there. The opening is a berry concoction which is super feminine and smells EXACTLY like more than one of my girlfriends shampoo's. Then that powdery minimal clean white peony/magnolia combo which is the heart of this fragrance. I'd say its a warm synthetic base of amber when dried down but still the dominant fruity/floral powder. The kicker for me is the Ivy. Yes you can detect it and that is the honestly Sag Harbor's saving grace (although it dies away after a hour or so) and keeps this scent from just being cheap or a total chickfest and actually reminds me of carthusia or another Italian house which use this herbal, green scent against the nagging powder of a modern base. Unfortunately it will always win over and there's no way I could were a scent like this. I'm glad after my missus washes her hair that the smell doesn't last too long, let alone her then applying a fragrance which is much the same. Some are going to love this and good luck to them, as I mentioned I think it has some merit as a high price fragrance...just not for me. Update: This is very long lasting stuff, dies right down to the skin but very good longevity.
Okay I've never tried Windsor and have been tempted to purchase a stupendously over priced sample before now just to be one of the privileged few who know what all the fuss is about? I'm suspecting like many, many folks who are smelling Royal Mayfair for the first time and having their hopes of a holy grail dashed, because it really isn't what they had anticipated Windsor to be like. Well I agree. Although I could be wrong...This might be a pale imitation in comparison but even the sales assistant was quick to say that it was a Windsor doppelganger, so what conclusion am I supposed to draw? Well, just going off the fragrance alone, instantly it smells like Creed. I'm not exactly sure I can put into words what I mean by that...but bare with me. I think its the juniper/citrus opening which is fresh and bracing in a really good way. Then there's a slightly herbal pine refrain which settled down on my skin to a very different Rose heart. I say 'different' because it's not dark or thickly perfumed or jammy or anything like that but more like a Penhaligon's opus 1870 refined rose note. This however is not the whole story and I've deliberated started talking about what I consider to be the 'garnish'. The main offender (depending how you see it?) here is the eucalyptus which rides through each layer of this perfume from top to bottom. I actually found it to be quite an interesting and subtle note not overbearing but I can absolutely understand the aversion and negative connotations associated with it. Menthol cough sweets, cheap minty smells and coupled with pine in here cheap bathroom cleaning products. Thankfully I think it's handled pretty tactfully in this composition and doesn't tip over into that territory but instead walks a thin line of questionable appeal but for sure those who love it, they will revere this quality as setting it apart from other fragrances and in truth...it does. My girlfriend hated this one. I however liked Royal Mayfair my minor criticism would be it's a bit weak and lack luster. I think a deep wood base and drydown wouldn't have gone a miss. Instead you get a scent which never really kicks but delivers some rarely (if ever?)seen olfactory ideas. After all I would say that is what I look for in a fragrance so I can't fault it there. Royal mayfair is certainly no rehashing of done to death and tired concepts, (well...maybe one of it's own?) which it must be commended and given some credit for. Lasted reasonably on my skin but I think for the price you might feel short changed for anything other than beastmode strength. I would like to trial this properly and give a better appraisal because my instant thoughts were that I wouldn't wear it but I have a feeling it might be a grower this one.
Very pleasant Rose/Oud combination with a creamy drydown. Oud Palao starts of with a suave nudge towards Oud Ispahan before showing its individual character. I'm not an Oud expert by any means, but I can tell the utterly synthetic (Montale) from a better crafted one, and Palao stands somewhere between MFK Oud Satin and Oud Ispahan. The opening is a deep red rose with a smoky leathery Oud. It's not medicinal, nor does it have that band aid smell so typical in other Oud combos. Instead the smokiness perfectly combines with the rose to produce a very nice opening that lasts around an hour on my skin. Slowly but linearly evolving towards the heart, the labdanum adds a piquant animalic warmth without overshadowing the main notes; instead it enhances them. The drydown arrives 3 hours in, and I mostly detect the earthiness of patchouli with a very creamy and slightly violet tinged vanilla. This lasts for the rest of the day on my skin, with sudden whiffs of Oud and rose. The sillage is above moderate, persistent without being excessive, giving of whiffs during the day, along with a very long lasting longevity. It doesn't feel new, but given the fact that it is well made, it's an excellent introduction to Oud for a beginner as well as pleasing someone more into this genre. Sillage and longevity above average for Diptyque with nods to other well crafted fragrances and with attention to detail and ingredients. If anything, it feels like a middle eastern perfume seen through a gauze, without falling to western cliches. Right now I'm wearing both Palao on one arm and Leather Oud on the other, and I'm smelling Palao. Unfortunately the clearly reformulated Dior is nowhere to be found. Thumbs up Diptyque; late to the party but attending with an ace up your sleeve!
Not a brand I'm that familiar with. I have tried several Sisley's but tend to leave them alone as I do with most 'Women only' brands. I know, I know I should be more open but I kinda like the restriction as the market is big enough without trying everything that comes out. Soir d'Orient is different though, I figured I'd pass comment on what is a fairly appealing fragrance. I say that as it is available in department stores but does have that niche slightly middle eastern edge. I say 'slightly' because this is firmly in the safe, modern, western camp but with a nod to oud and incense which instantly would make me take notice (If I was a woman) Yes I say that because this is still ultimately quite a feminine floral scent, not overbarely rosy and with a hint of pepper and resin and a base of woods. I just think it's a bit soul less and generic the bottle looks great if not a little deceptive, reminding me of Armani prive or those upper class gold/black combo oud/rose combinations. Sadly it doesn't deliver the goods. So really nothing to set this apart from a host of interesting orientals, still a nice perfume though. If it went a bit braver and smokey with the incense I might just wear it myself.
Quite simply this is as sweet as sweet gets in that approximated leather vibe which many many perfumes go for in the vein of Tom Fords Tuscan leather etc... Recently In response to a forum thread, I discussed at length the merits of these leather fragrances and the subtle differences between them. Although starting out quite leathery this one tends to go the way of AdP leather and sweetened up fairly quick. Don't get me wrong this is excellent perfume and at a jawdroppingly cheap price, a great alternative to TL and the likes. It's not quite got the richness or density of long lasting niche leathers and settles to a skin scent much more readily, only projecting gently. I can live with this though because the performance is still very good and it clings to clothes relentlessly. Monotheme have produced some great scents at prices which cannot be denied are bargain.
Hmmmm...there should be a lot to like here but sadly this misses the mark for me. Firstly I'm glad just to find Monotheme in stores, as these scents have alluded me for years now and finally I get to try them. Starts out with a peppery spice in the opening which for me was hugely promising but sadly doesn't last long and the promise fades along with my hopes about this fragrance. There's a definite labdanum and Amber vibe with a powdered floral feel and underpinned with woods. I have to say this just feels a little tired and slightly dated, almost granny like. I found the performance to be reasonably good and this brand are obviously of some quality for the comparitably low asking price. My verdict is that Black our is a perfectly good fragrance just not my bag and if you are looking for oud although it's present I'd look elsewhere.
It seems that I'm turning into a Narciso Rodriguez fan. After Narciso and For Her, L'Absolu is my next big like. Though I kind of expected it as it contains tuberose. L'Absolu is indeed very similar to both the aforementioned fragrances, and at the same time it feels different enough to justify owning it if you already own one or both of the above. The opening blast is tuberose and jasmine. Very creamy, the tuberose soon takes center stage as the queen usually does. The jasmine isn't very prominent, while the tuberose sings for a good 45 minutes on my skin. Heart and base is where the similarities start to show up; you get the signature musk that's highlighted in For Her, and the creamy amber of Narciso. This is where I feel that this couldn't be anything other than a member of the family. Narciso fragrances seem to have a certain elegance and understated sophistication that makes them so appealing to many, even if at first they seem kind of crude. They also bolster a very good longevity with a powerful sillage, which is something I wish would stand for most brands nowadays. They are similar to each other and at the same time different. I enjoy For Her for its osmanthous/orange blossom no fuss musk, Narciso for its creamy ambery gardenia, and now L'Absolu for its strong tuberose presence, that is followed by what I like from the others. It's worth a try even though I know many will find it redundant. But if you like tuberose this a very pleasant surprise from the mainstream department that will surely be everywhere come fall and Christmas season.
Narciso for her (EDT) is...was, my nemesis. I remember that back in 2003 when it was launched, apart from being completely different to what was in style, I fell in love with the black austere heavy bottle. I tried it repeatedly, on various occasions but I never really got it. I knew it smelt nice; everyone was wearing it and the sillage trail left behind was actually very pleasant. But on me all I could smell was a sharp alcoholic opening, that never seemed to really go away. And when it left, I couldn't smell that intriguing smell on me. Sure, my clothes did smell gorgeous, and it lasted until laundry time. But on my skin? Nada. It was a case of desperately wanting to love it. The thing is it didn't love me back. A couple of weeks ago I stumbled on a sample after purchasing something else. I thought why not. First wearing wasn't bad. The opening of my nightmares was there alright, but it didn't last. Wow, that was a first. Soon after I could smell it on ME, not just my clothes. And there it was, the sillage I remembered. Soft, musky, creamy. I left it at that. Two days later I wore it again. The sharp opening wasn't so sharp this time, and the good part arrived earlier! Again, a soft musk that does not feel particularly clean. It felt like skin. Bathed with a luxurious bar of artisanal soap. Covered in a layer of rich cream, with a hint of floral powder. I could finally get it. The heat of my skin revealed the orange blossom heart, and the osmanthous which turned to shampoo on me, became a gorgeous tea like smell with hints of apricot. I was swooning! I get no vanilla, although it does its work in the sweet creamy drydown. The amber and patchouli are not heavy, but instead add a certain dryness, which is what makes it excellent for guys and women all around. (I was told when I bought my bottle yesterday that many men prefer this version to the regular Narciso for him) For me Narciso is a versatile fragrance. It covers the void of an everyday fragrance that I feel doesn't offend anybody, while at the same time smelling interesting. There have been many launches in the last decade, that are considered 'modern classics'. I highly disagree. But I believe that Narciso has earned that title. In my humble opinion, it's the only perfume delivered to us by the mainstream department that truly offers something innovative, while maintaining a consistent quality, in the last 15 years. I just hope that it remains that way!
I hadn’t realized just how much For Her had changed until I got hold of a bottle from 2006/7. I still stand by my older review about a current bottle (I still love it), but smelling the original again has brought back so many memories and has made me love it even more. The OG has a more pronounced sweet floral character. The orange blossom and the osmanthous take center stage, while the musk, which is creamier and headier and far more easily discernible makes it incredibly smooth. It’s got a lovely huggable feeling, and a rich floral sweetness just like in L’Absolu (that one is the closest thing to the OG For Her). The patchouli and amber sweeten it up just a bit more; the musk still feels potent and there’s a genuine feel of a musk oil or unguent that makes it extremely sensual. Years later, and appreciating it far more than when it was released, I find it beautiful and engulfing. Sillage is high and if it sticks to clothes, it has to be washed of. The current, while still beautiful, is more fleeting, I find I become anosmic to it faster, and the musk feels sharper and ‘colder’, thus it makes everything smell different. It’s still creamy but that gorgeous floral sweetness is diminished. It’s rougher and woodier, less floral and more ambery. I love both but now I feel as if I have two different fragrances, a flanker of sorts. As info, first versions do have a transparent bottom, and the black glass, while still painted from the inside, looks like 4 different pieces instead of one. First bottles don’t have the inner pouch but I can guarantee they are original (got mine from a friend who worked Narciso Rodriguez and had stashed away sealed bottles). Of course, as always, fakes exist and can make someone doubt. For this review, a limited edition signed bottle, 100ml.
Black Orchid is a helluva ride. Looking at the notes, you see that the kitchen sink is missing, but once again the end result is greater than the sum. If you expect an olfactory shock, well there are other fragrances that are far more shocking. But if you expect a treat, something that shows the best of Tom, and a scent with balls, that's what you get. Black Orchid is a statement fragrance, no doubt about that. It takes a confident man, woman or cat to wear it. It's one of the most deliciously dirty gourmands that will have many running away and many screaming for more. I only wish I had the extrait as well. I was firstly acquainted with BO in 2007. I couldn't get enough of the intoxicating sillage that was left behind by one of the regulars at the cafe I used to work. When I finally tracked it down at Sephora, I just grabbed the biggest bottle and sprayed myself silly just because. As soon as the scent hits my skin there's a very brief citrus/floral opening that is already underscored with the patchouli and the cocoa. But this doesn't last long. Immediately the floral medley in the heart starts the show. But these ain't your innocent flowers. They are dark and yeasty with something strange. The truffle accord is quite well done, as it resembles the earthy/dirty/gasoline like smell of real truffle, which like this scent, is an acquired taste. The chocolate vibe is present all the way to the drydown helped by a not so clean and friendly patchouli, and dark cocoa. The gardenia feels milky and creamy to be a realistic rendition, and the blaccurant adds a weird but delicious slight ammonia (or pissy) undercurrent to the whole orgy that takes place. If there ever was a Black forest with hallucinogenic flowers, fairies that get high and dwarfs that trade rare truffles for other favors, that forest lives inside this gorgeous black flutted bottle. Is this a floral gourmand? Well in an awkward way, yes. This is a gourmand for night people. Dark, milky, smoky and intoxicating. But the fun comes with breaking the rules and wearing it in broad daylight! I find no sugary sweetness and the dreaded fruits and candy of other gourmands. Here, the flowers are narcotic and wilting, the fruit ripe and honeyed, about to rot. The patchouli is dark, and the cocoa powder is the drug of choice of the Black Forest. Wearing it, there are many associations and many nods to past big and loud perfumes. Tom however has managed to create something completely different that screams powerhouse and will one day live along the greats of the 70s and 80s. A personal favorite! Quick notes: My bottle was purchased in 2007. Recent tests with current testers show a diminished sillage/longevity. Not even the fairies inside this bottle can escape IFRA. Also, at least in Spain, Black Orchid is stocked in perfumeries both on the male and female side of fragrance walls. It's considered unisex, righteously and I smell it more on men than on women. But as with all perfumes, it's down to personal preferences, not gender. Wear what you like and forget about stupid distinctions. After all, Black Orchid takes balls to wear, and many women have more than a lot of men!
Balmain is a brand I respect. I'm not sure why as they don't really cater toward men and when they do there's not many to choose from. Regardless I still like them, a bit Lalique I'm won over by the niche appeal at designer prices. This however is generic rubbish. So sorry to say that because I've no doubt it's wearable and it didn't offend me or anything but possibly worse than that I thought I'd smelled it all before. This was not something I expected from Balmain and especially with a name like Homme, you'd think it was the captain of the flagship? (also because of the Nepoleonesque uniform.) Yeah the bottle is prehaps the most appealing thing about it. The top notes are a tired aquatic like, fresh bergamot then a whispy, synthetic violet accord which again is okay and you could be fooled for thinking quite nice in the first minutes, but I want more frankly! Then like many fragrances these days...burberry brit or Versace Eros to name a couple...it tries to do too much. Ie: fresh and crowd pleasing, ethereal and classically perfumed violet then a faux oriental base of warmer woods and tonka beans and a slightly powdery 'leather' thing??? I don't really get Saffron from Balmain Hommme either but perhaps if I try it again it my come through?? My point is, everything is mixed into oblivion, blended into mediocrity, you can't do everything with a fragrance or it just comes out having no identity at all...for this Balmain are guilty there's just something cheap smelling about it and that is quite the crime. Longevity was 'average' believe it or not? a bit like everything else about this one.
