A very decent offering from Jo Malone and a great addition to the Cologne intense range. Speaking of the black bottles, I have to say that despite all being very good in their own right, they don't offer much in the way of unique composition with the exception of Oud & Bergamot which doesn't really smell like either but manages to be the stand out of this line. This kinda suffers with the same thing because it's a fairly straight forward spicy incense fragrance. The opening is a heady refreshing olibanum, bubbling and zesty like a cool gin & tonic. Elemi also has this similar effect so those two are very apparent off the bat. Then the spicing becomes more apparently woody, it's a peppery woods vibe, which is kinda like sandalwood without any of the creamy element to it, rather than cedar. This definitely has a more grimey element to it than avignon or cardinal which I think are more uplifting and frankincense/elemi dominated. I have to say when dried down I get the quality and warm of my favorite resins, balmy labdanum and benzoin remaining close to the skin after being initially quite strong. I think the quick fading down to a skin scent is not always a bad thing especially with scents like this and the fact I'm wearing it in the summer. Performance is okay generally. All in all it's good and props the Jo Malone company for moving into this territory because it suits and enhances the range. I wouldn't buy it but if they did a mini set with all of these in I would definitely get it. Update: Deep into the drydown now and it has vague qualities of Armani myrrhe imperiale or black afgano but not as deep or luxurious. Still nice though, as heavy spicy woods go this delivers. I love labdanum and I definitely feel the vibes in here.
Yet another 'Intense' fragrance. Flankers are unashamedly cashing in on their predecessors these days. Bottle looks really cool to be fair and I'm not judging, might be really good?
I'm a big, big, tea fan and anything with 'Tea' in the name definitely peaks my interest, especially 'Tea escape' I have to say I'm undecided and will definitely take another sample to work out just what's going on? I think it's the rice in here? There's definitely an unknown herbal type element to it? I think I know what rice smells like but I've not sure whether it belongs in a fragrance I want to wear. I will give tea escape this...it's a unique, almost odd proposition, even the tea is not a smoky, aromatic earl grey, neither is it classically dry or metallic? But it is definitely tea. Tea is typically coupled with citrus notes and it's refreshing that Maison Martin Margiela and Pellegrin have decided to go in a different direction with it. The osmanthus and floral element shouldn't be downplayed in this fragrance because it is a big part and as it settles offers up a unique flavour which reminds me of Lush products. That mixture of natural and synthetic it really is a very interesting smell. Must return to this one because I was tempted to buy it just for strangeness and had to refrain.
'At the barbers shop' is a perfectly named fragrance (unlike many these days) I was expecting clean, herbal, green soap and leathery aromatic goodness and that's exactly what I got. The opening is slightly sharp and fresh with a hint of citrus perhaps then lavender and basil. The heart and base is a milky, soapy talcum, musk and geranium type vibe. It Smells very familiar almost comforting and dries down to a masculine clean leathery scent on my skin. Can't go wrong really. No innovation here though perhaps this scent could do with a few more notes? Maybe I'm missing the point? I don't think this fragrance is intended to be special, it's functional and practical like the branding and feel of all the scents from this house. Simplicity is the key here and it works. Could of done with slightly better performance considering this is a niche brand, and although not expensive for 100ml, it's still slightly lacking. I can't fault this one overall though, it's just for men who know what they want... a nice shave, soap fragrance.
Total disappointment. The reasons why? Well mainly that I was hoping it would deliver a totally different experience but instead has been played a little straight, safe and close the original accord. This smells like the original, good right? Yep...that is good I like the original. Is the 'Extreme' in the title worthy? Well it is more extreme. (at least in the opening and first hour or two, sure it is!) however apart from the definite addition of more aggressive spicing (cumin is apparent) for me it has a disgusting hairspray/ammonia bitterness and this thing I can't put my finger on about modern concoctions, which makes them deeper, harder more long lasting but don't improve them and in some cases completely ruin the opening and take a long time to smooth out. This unfortunately is one of those cases. However, when dried down is very much like the original except for a deeper Amber/ tobacco, and a creamy vanilla base especially observable in the very late stages of the drydown. This I have to admit is kinda lovely. So it's not bad then, just sweet and cloying like the original but in a whole new way. Spicebomb extreme makes Spicebomb seem subtle and understated...yeah that's right. Projection and longevity are both very good I thought. Worth checking out but don't get your hopes up because like mine they will be dashed.
Although this says for women I would describe it as a unisex gourmand fragrance. However, once upon a time I did buy Visa for myself and ended up giving it to my girlfriend as I just felt I could pull it off but it was that bit too feminine for me. This has that feeling too and a slight fruity/floral quality of Visa, this is mainly in the top notes because the base of this thing is a vanillac, tonka and an eastern sandalwood feel of Cashbah too. So an oriental with a definite depth and quality you'd expect from Robert Piguet...It lasted well on my skin. That's all I can say about it really? The jury is out but I will definitely sample it again in a few months and update.
Wow! This is a superb vetiver, dark, harsh, slightly smokey, a hay like dryness and green grassy wetness it's brilliant...everything it should be. Very good (If not the best Vetiver) in terms of a natural, accurate perfume but not necessarily my favourite vetiver compositionally. The opening has a citrus twang, also tinged with menthol which is uplifting as well as slightly strange. Despite all this praise... I don't think I want to wear it especially. Vetiver veritas is of high quality and the Eau de Parfum concentration lasts fairly well and projects gently. If you're a vetiver fan this should definitely be on your radar.
Oh wow! This is a stunner. Very much in the vein of those heady, sweet leather fragrances like Tuscan leather, Clive Christian C, golden boy, AdP leather....etc etc... But crucially this has much more of a delicate touch. When I say that don't get me wrong it's just as deep as the counterparts I've mentioned but possibly has more dimensions in that I definitely smell more of an incense bias. It's sweet, warm, smoky and I can surely see why the name is becoming. Additionally it's more wearable (on a regular basis) than a Tuscan leather type scent. It has a touch of the noble incense about it, saffron smoothness and although not dominated by frankincense I definitely get that from L'incendiaire too. The only negative I can think of is that I didn't buy it in the spot. I do have Clive Christian C and have had the chance to get others (I view as pale in comparison) but for all it's likeness this new Serge Lutens still has merit and I suspect when trailed side by side the differences will be even more apparent. I loved it. Top marks from me. hmmmm...Update. Well I say above "...not dominated by frankincense..." ??? yeah...that's wrong. After a turbulent and opulent opening this fragrance dries down to a perfectly high quality and slightly darker Olibanum than usual...but it is just that....olibanum. I must've been nose blind first time out, I stick to what I said about L'incendiaire it gives a complex impression when first applied but doesn't take long to die down to a heady frankincense and I'm so sorry to SL and Sheldrake but I can get that (I except not quite this) elsewhere cheaper. It shouldn't be about money but in this case I have to pass on this fragrance.
I'm not a floral guy at all and this is not the sort of scent I would wear but I can certainly appreciate it. Very delicate and uplifting mixture in the opening of mandarin orange and a delicate bouquet of jasmine orange blossom and hyacinth. Hyacinth is by no means a favourite floral aroma of mine, my mum always has hyacinths in her house and smell is very pungent. The mixture of jasmine and maybe the iris in here give this scent a sweetness along with the honey and vanilliac base, which make it...well just very nice. The quality is undeniable and this scent lasts and lasts I can't fault it, if you're a fan of bright and breezy florals you could do a lot worse than checking this one out.
'Pleasantly surprised' is how I would describe myself after sampling this one. I figured the 'Intense' moniker and the fact I wasn't all that taken with the original Gentlemen only (which isn't bad TBF) not to mention the fact that it's yet another Tonka bean designer scent. If this combination of factors wasn't enough to put me off trying it I don't know what would? Anyway, I finally persevered and it's turns out not to be a bad scent. Givenchy Gentlemen only Intense opens with a hint of pepper which soon smooths out into a synthetic resin and chocolatey patchouli vibe. As it dries down some more it gets woodier and maybe a hint of that smokey birch but nothing particularly ballsy. For me this is a creamy type fragrance dominated by the warm vanilla smell of tonka bean, amber and patchouli. The patchouli is the saving grace here in what would otherwise be another 'blah' release in the vein of so many others of late. Lasting power was okay but not great.
Oh snap!!! The notes on this have me salivating, sounds absolutely amazing and from my experience of the Prive collection this won't disappoint.
Special for Gentlemen is what a classy man should wear. And a classy woman for that matter. Forget the gentleman, this is a special cologne/fragrance/perfume done in the old fougere style a la Jicky, and therefore reminiscent of Shalimar as well. As much as I love Jicky, and it's bracing lavender/vanilla combo, I'm lucky if I get 30 minutes out of it. So it's my go to instant pick me up before I wear something that I can actually smell when I finish getting dressed. Enter Special for Gentlemen. Unaware of the brand I blindly tested this, hoping to find a fresh fougere. The immediate opening was Jicky on steroids, what I hope mr. Wasser will do with Jicky soon. Lavender and vanilla galore, with a citrus touch to add freshness and sparkle. Creamy, aloof, put together. A perfect dandy scent. A perfect lady coiffed and dressed to the 9s scent! The opening goes for about an hour on my skin, I'm able to indulge in the goodness without feeling like I'm wearing a lavender ice cream. The heart notes are mostly lost on me, a very hazy floral gives of a 50s feeling that goes well with the picture in my mind; black and white movie, set in the Italian Riviera. Or Paris. Or my bedroom! The drydown is where Shalimar enters the picture. Whereas Jicky has a pronounced civet base, here I get the leather and castoreum of Shalimar, draped in oppoponax but very creamy courtesy of vanilla. And it lasts for a good 7 hours, with above moderate sillage, especially if applied freely. Smelling it next to the 2 Guerlain's, it feels of the family. But it also has its own character, only taking the best of the 2 and giving it a unique touch. If you love Jicky and lament it's poor staying power, or love Shalimar, give it a try. And bonus points for being able to smell it at the end of the day. Or at least the creamy leather that clings on skin forever. Excellent introduction to the brand. I hope the rest of the collection is as good!
I found the opening of this to be nothing but a chalky, dusty mess. I suspect this may be due to chemistry based on the vast difference between my wrist and the scent on the spray card in store. I get slight plum beneath the thick layer of dust, but that doesn't make up for the hideous vintage overtone. The drydown is tolerable, but certainly not worth wading through the above to get to it. I adore violet. It's a constant throughout my fragrance wardrobe. However, I can't imagine this working as a skin fragrance for anyone.
One of those fragrances I tried when it first came out and wasn't that impressed by despite being a huge sandalwood fan. I've revisited it and sacred wood is a minimal composition but a 'composition' non the less. You could be forgiven for thinking it's a linear effort... because it is. However, Sandalwood does posses it's own complexity and when done right can be just fine without anything else. Sacred wood does have both the creamy, milky sawdust, wood and the spicy edge but only subtle, this definitely more of a subdued affair. There's a general woodiness too nodding to hints of cypress and cedar, probably hence the Tam Dao and Wonderwood comparisons. There's vague top notes of something more refreshing but they are short lived. So what do we have then? A very nice delicate woody fragrance which is never going to set the world a light. This being said I don't doubt the quality of the sandalwood oil used here is probably very good. I noticed that the opening is more captivating than some, then dies down very quickly offering a shy skin scent, which I don't mind so much but that's not the way you wow me Killian. The point is...I can think of many other sandalwoods I'd rather have than this expensive offering. Smells really nice though so it's worth checking out.
@Hipchick40: it's complicated with the Aqua Alegorias; they come and go with little fanfare. I heard it's been discontinued, but then again it's widely available in some places. In Spain for instance it's easily found, along Jasminora and Nerolia Bianca which are also rumored discontinued. My advice is stock up all you can because sooner or later it'll be gone. If Terracotta is available near you give it a try, as a similar alternative. Also, if circumstances permit, Le Labo Lys 41 is a very good albeit more expensive choice.
I always give Lacoste fragrances a go but I don't really know why? I mean lets face it, most of them are either horrendous, just cheap or don't perform well...and the majority have all three of these characteristics. I think it's due to my unwavering love of Eau de Lacoste Blanc which I absolutely adore and think is a masterpiece among boring 'fresh' designer scents. So I've been awaiting this Yellow one (and the purple one which hasn't dropped yet)and it really didn't disappoint. I'm not sure whether I'm loosing my mind but this is actually really nice. It's got that average designer citrus opening but then no saltiness, no horrid calone note, no cloying sweetness or annoying bandwagon notes like tonka bean... Pretty much no 'fakery' (rather than synthetic...ness) at all! It's remarkable it just seems like a pleasant smelling summery fresh fragrance to me. Maybe a little base of woods and hint of pink pepper and ginger but nothing overt. I could've sworn I got a hint of floral maybe ylang or tuberose from my beloved blanc, it definitely shares a pinch of the soothing ice lolly quality. I only tried it once on the back of my hand so I will have to return to it but all in all I'd say not a bad job by Lacoste. Minor criticism still wasn't good in the longevity department.
Onda is a creature of the night. What Vero has achieved is outstanding. She has managed to ignite my passion for perfume like the very first time! When a new launch, when a new perfume was scarce and you were so excited to try it, to live with it, without worrying that in a couple of days a new one would come. Days when perfumery was based on creating an olfactory piece of art that would transcend, create emotions. Making someone get goosebumps. This being said, Onda has taught me that Vetiver and I can get along. As long as said Vetiver is dirty, animalic, and skanky. All qualities that Onda surpasses. The opening is immediately pronounced on spicy ginger with a very smoky feel, Vetiver with leather, nutmeg/coriander perhaps? Don't know, but it's amazing. Soon after, there's a very potent honey note stripped to its bare essence. It's not sweet, but quite sulphur like, which I guess translates to 'piss' for some, but to me this is what honey is all about; as an animalic note it highlights its carnality perfectly. Ylang ylang adds a sweet touch, that rounds the composition making it feel extremely warm, lived in, human. Civet, quite pronounced lingers on the skin, on the verge of extreme without going all the way, along with cured leather, steeped in spices. The end result is a very smoky, slightly salty and indolic (ylang/honey/jasmine) take on animalic perfumes via Vetiver. The blending is so masterful that with seemingly simple ingredients, she has created a very complex perfume that wouldn't feel out of place in the 20's or 30's, without feeling dated. And if someone can create such complex perfume today, that is Vero. She ain't mainstream, she doesn't want to be nice. She's tough, she's lived and she wants to express the fire within. And even though I'm not keen on the massive number of new launches today, I'm really really anxious to see what she comes up with next. Sillage quite big, longevity outstanding! Bravissimo Vero!
Well I'd seen that this was coming out a while back but remembered nothing about the notes when I finally came across it. I was happy when I checked here after sampling and everything I could smell (and more) was listed here. Sometimes fragrance notes can be difficult to discern beyond the obvious few so I'm glad Dunhill have been able to convey them clearly in this new release. That message is one of masculinity from the get go a strong peppery bang of spice in the opening which subsides fairly quickly to reveal a dry juniper and soapy cardamom. There's definitely iris in there and lavender too but less so. There's a herbal sage element and then a base of vetiver and woods also the classic spicy feel does point toward oakmoss without really smelling like it...if that makes sense? Although it doesn't smell like them at all really (except for a woody/lavender/cedar vibe perhaps?) I was reminded of something like a cool water or Green Irish tweed sort All together you get a pretty good men's fragrance, unremarkable to me but I'm glad to see something on the market that isn't the same old boring aroma chemical fakery and actually smells like a composition with some focus. Icon isn't really attempting to appeal to the masses and I suspect the Dunhill brand appeals to a slightly older crowd, and definitely so with this release. A customer next to me at the counter was dousing himself in it and proclaiming "oooh...this is real man's stuff...No messing about with this." Although I concurred to an extent, I couldn't help but notice the Sales assistant ladies looking a bit awkward as if this guy was being a little over familiar with them, calling them "sweetheart" etc... when he was about 30 and she was clearly in her 50's. He seemed like the sort who just wanted to make idle small talk for the sake of it...I don't think he bought anything either. Just interesting to get another male perspective by witnessing the first impressions of a stranger. Yeah so...anyway... longevity and projection is alright it's a fairly subtle scent after a turbulent, peppery opening. I liked the drydown and maybe after a few more tries it may grow on me. One this is for sure the bottle is superb and very satisfying to hold. That fact alone will attract the macho men's men who like the idea of something which resembles the gear stick of a luxury sports car.
I couldn't wait to get my hands on this fragrance unfortunately I didn't get it before release as I had missed the voice mail from my Mugler friend who was going to leak me some slightly early. (for the UK) Anyhow...It's landed in stores now, I knew exactly what to expect from this and it delivered. The top notes are juicy and sweet with blood orange and even pineapple (my sister got in my car and said "It smells of pineapple in here") then the base is classic patchouli and vanilla creamy sweetness but with a strength and undeniable Mugler DNA. Having said that it wouldn't surprise me in the slightest if AMen haters could be a fan of this. The base has distinctly more vanilla than most AMen flankers, well it certainly seems that way in any case. I ran the full gamete of emotions with this scent from liking the obvious top notes I'd expected, to absolutely loving Ultra zest and dreaming up gushing reviews to post here, then to the realization that I'd spoken (thought) too soon and that Ultra Zest is actually a mediocre affair, perhaps even a disappointing flanker. The truth is after several wears now that not only does this fit a much needed niche of fresh orientals, versatile enough to wear on a hot day but also still cozy and warming. Ultra Zest's citrus top notes are lasting, this is an important quality for me. I'm not someone who is obsessed with other peoples comments on my fragrance choice but having worn it 3 times over the Easter weekend I received an unprecedented amount of compliments. Seriously, even from strangers in the local shop, friends and family and perhaps the biggest praise imaginable from my mum. (who is very hard to please at the best of times...in EVERY regard.) The base dries down very soft and inoffensive but still with hints of zesty orange, it's great. I've toned down my review now to reflect what this fragrance is...a good wearable fragrance and welcome addition to the Mugler collection with good performance.
Cologne Indelebile is a cologne. Plain and simple, and if you expect something groundbreaking you are in for a disappointment. I know many people regard colognes as something plain. Something you briskly use after a shower to refresh yourself. But if you live in a Mediterranean country, somewhere where the scorching summer heat leaves you dried up, you know that a good cologne can liven you up. It's therapeutic and refreshing in the best possible way. But most of them barely last, so you need to spritz and spritz. And that's the pleasure of it; soaking up the citrus time after time until you feel alive again. Now, give that cologne some heft, without compromising the refreshing factor, and you have Cologne Indelebile. First thing I notice, sillage. Strong and powerful. Longevity around 8 hours. So far so good. What makes it unique is the salty skin effect. Ropion says he used an abundance of musks, white in particular, but the only white thing I smell, or better yet see, is the white light of the blazing sun. It starts like a fine and elegant citrus cologne, the orange blossom ads some light sweetness and floralcy, narcissus gives it a bite, and the musks give longevity and warmth. It's the equivalent of clean, slightly salty skin,at home, just back from the beach after a day soaking up the midday sun, with the skin covered in oils and creams, scented with an orange blossom perfume, topped up with a spray of a citrus cologne. In these sunny days we are having in Madrid it feels great, especially if I add a spritz of a more floral perfume, or a musky animalic one at night. But I feel that it will shine in July/August. The citrus will shine more, the musk will envelop more. It's not groundbreaking, but it gets top points for being a true cologne with a fresh start, that never bores you with just that, it evolves like skin in summer; fresh/warm/salty/sexy. Easy to wear, but not simple. My staple for this summer. Edited to add: 08/07/2015 After various samples and decants, Cologne Indelebile has been a letdown. The gorgeous orange blossom opening remains, but the salty musk I liked has been replaced by a very screechy white musk that refuses to let go and that reminds me of nothing less than A&F Fierce. Go figure! Skin chemistry is weird. Weather as well. As of now, not sure if I would purchase.
Here's what happens with Venti. Top notes (first minute or so) wonderful but also a little 'home' fragrance for me. Then it settles and the florals get dank and pretty awful on my skin becoming almost a scrubber. Venti just about retains enough interest and beauty to give the drydown a chance and when settled, although still with elements of both...basically...good - bad + okay = Okay. That opening does have a nice mandarin, peach and blossom feel but is then ruined with strongly concentrated jasmine and tuberose, which once past a mere whiff because musky and bitter on my skin. It's complex green but warm at the same time. There's a salty sweetness in the base which is kinda seaside like and could well be ambergris, and a hint of patchouli might account for some of the dirt. I actually get the non existant to begin with geranuim and vetiver with a hint of vanilla as it dries down. Just not a combination of notes I can get excited about really! For me it's a strong brew which doesn't appeal to me for wearing but is definitely not boring and the concentration is banging projection is pretty heavy and longevity was good.
This is an incredibly sexy fragrance. Very feminine to me but not beyond the realms of experimentation, after all I did wear it and thoroughly enjoy it too. The sweet opening lasts for ages and it's a warm floral musk with tons of powdery amber which at first is just too feminine, to ever consider for me regardless how nice I think it is. As it dries down though (after several hours)the benzoin and vanilla kicks a little more in the base and it becomes more appealing wearing and less loudly girly. It evokes pink to me...but a sexy hot pink perhaps? Seriously if my girlfriend took to wearing this I would be compelled to ravish her. It is literally amber and musk but amazing how different it is to other amber scents (I have tried)and that's a good achievement. It's strong too last ages and projects very heavily.
I'd seen this popping up all over the place and getting a good write up. Also I dig the kinda artisan look of the bottles and the cut n paste artwork on the label. Anyway the scents themselves have been a bit of a disappointment so far but loaded with imagination and creativity. What puts me off is the hippy, dirtyish base they seem to possess, that's three of them now with what I describe as the 'sugar paper' note, very woody and with a hint of patchouli dirt and deep resin, seems to be a theme in Cobra/Canary and City on fire. This is undoubtedly my favourite of the ones I've tried so far though. This should be a big favourite with me judging by the notes This juice has an uncompromising tar like guaiac wood dominance which is evident immediately. I kinda don't like the opening... I got a dark chocolate with jelly sweets vibe when first sprayed the kind of polar opposite juxtaposition which instantly reminds me of some 4160 Tuesdays creations. I think the vanilla is playing tricks in the opening sweetening up the resin in an other wise smokey and uber woody affair. A stonking resinous, medicinal, myrrh note is there throughout but works well with the gritty, wet clay feel and ambrette. Drydown is lovely, long and actually projects in a mellow way, I just can't help but love guaiac wood, benzoin, myrrh and vanilla in combination it's right up my street. I will say one minor criticism, I don't think Memoirs of a Trespasser is very refined composition wise and there's many more scents I would rather purchase before it...but it's pretty nice and at least it isn't boring, worth checking out for sure.
Unsurprisingly I've never smelled anything like this in my life! The opening is a pungent and overwhelming, sweet yet savory, gourmand smell of barbeque sauce, mollasus, chipotle chili and pork. It specifically has a pork BBQ vibe to it like this bacon infused hot sauce I have at home. It does on the one hand perfectly evoke a summer barbeque but then later a cold, misty, 5th of November night on the other. The foody bit doesn't last all that long which is kinda a shame but also quite welcome, I mean as much as I love BBQ sauce I'm not sure I want to smell like it. The main body of City on fire....well its smoky of course and what starts out as smokehouse hickory wood chips turns to a more resinous tar like smoke. There's labdanum in here which smooths it out a bit. Then city on fire becomes a bonefide perfume totally worthy of more note than the inital quirkiness would have you believe. I really like it and this is from somebody who tried Jeke for the first time in the same week, I've got to say I think I prefer this? Jeke is quite different and much more intensive but City on Fire is extremely pleasant and wearable when it's dried down. Not massive performance wise but still good and surprising considering how strong and smokey it goes on. The drydown is that long drawn out 'papery' wood pulp thing that I often describe and was the same with the Cobra and Canary one.
