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Serge Lutens L'orpheline

Tragically, I overlooked this years ago, when I went 'meh, that's a featureless 'clean' musk, especially for SL' but that is precisely why it's so good, revisiting it today. A bright uplifting incense, haunted very briefly in the top notes by a sweet violet like note, but don't get me wrong it's not a violet perfume, It's about a very clinical incense accord, slight but ever present and then warm at the end. Dries down to a truly lovely skin musk. Yeah very good.

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Ex Nihilo Brompton Immortals

Brompton Immortals

This is absolutely incredible. A creamy rose and saffron thing. Feels luxurious and is so so moreish. Perfectly unisex. I dream of perfumes this good. With a profile like this, you’d be forgiven for thinking winter frag. But wait, take it on holiday. Wear it in the evening when you’re all dressed up and heading out for a night in town. In the heat of the early evening sun the scent of Brompton will make you feel like a million bucks. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest

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Marc-Antoine Barrois B683 Extrait

Marc-Antoine Barrois

@bostonscentguy, that oil slick on your skin is the natural perfume oils. It’s not a bad thing by any means.

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Abdes Salaam Attars Perfumes Sharif

Abdes Salaam Attars Perfumes

This perfume is magic! Absolute magic. The ultimate sepia toned fragrance, translucent possessing both resinous heft and depth, but has a lightness, allowing it to be light and nuanced. It does remind me of coke. Not cocaine before you Tuscan leather sniffers start, but coca cola (other brands are available) infact it's more like the syrup of an own brand or soda stream cola, or holding up cola bottle (sweets) to the light. That's highly reductive though because it has a blend of spices with gingery bite, cinnamon warm, anise character and much more. Leathery amber is a broad approximation of this fragrance. It’s MAD because I looked at the notes and reviews here and people were talking about almond notes etc… which I TOTALLY didn’t get at all. However as this dries down after several hours it goes almost floral, and lightly powdery and that sweetness becomes that cherry/almond benzaldehyde smell but really, really natural, not something forced in fact it smells like real tonka absolute which has those qualities and indeed I get almond sure, but like nearly 12 hours later on my clothes. I like it very much indeed, a fun fragrance to wear if you like sweet, piquant spices, cherry coke/Dr Pepper stuff like that but conveyed in an unusual and high quality manner. I want it but I fear it’s not gonna be easy to get as the sample is old.

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Papillon Artisan Perfumes Anubis

Papillon Artisan Perfumes

Opens with a huge blast of mystical resins, turning into a benchmark saffron fragrance with a well-behaved immortelle underpinning everything. The florals ensure it remains chic throughout. Pure love from the very first moment. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest

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Pocket Scents Cherry, Almond & Marshmallow

Cherry, Almond & Marshmallow

This and purple gourmand are hands down the best ive tried from this house so far, and ive tried many haha!.This is soooo good, sweet, smooth and soft. Definitely feminine but i dont care, i rock this bad boy. Gives me a slight similarity to Kilian - Rolling in Love and we all know how that one is priced👀

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Penhaligon's Constantinople

Constantinople feels wierd to me. Like Rayaud and Salamagne had a blazing row during it's formulation and finished it in an angry, half arsed way. Call me a reductionist with an unsophisticated schnozz but I felt this was like a pale rose/oud with much of the rose bleached out of it and only the most translucent 'oud' accord left behind. However, I kind like the fact the rose is so muted, it sort of works in it's favour and reminiscent to me of Penhaligons (fuck I can't remember what it's called but I own it) Levantium that's it!!! A big, spectacle of a rose with earthen patchouli at it core and wierd twangs of saffron or something? but crucially the rose is ever present but feels, decayed and blunted with melancholy almost. This perfume has a similar feel, and actually probably from the listed geranium, but it's no where near as good. Could I get Iris or pine from it? (what else is listed?) Yeah I don't know, I don't care all that much.

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Penhaligon's Legacy of Petra

Legacy of Petra

Okay, Petra is a good perfume, let's get that out of the way. It's really not very trendy to make a populist myrrh perfume (well it's becoming a bit more trendy) many perfumes with myrrh in the title often don't overtly smell of myrrh, at least not mainstream Penhaligons types shit. Anyway this is a sticky myrrh biased amber with hefty woody tones and lots of discrete sweetness. Let's talk about the opening because that has the most overt, almost fruity and date like, caramelised, smell, I really love it and coupled with the most overt licorice which lasts throughout the entire perfume, I couldn't help but be wooed, in the initial phases at least. There's a bit of a downside here, clearly if you don't like licorice or anything verging on that, you're not going to dig this perfume or care about any other facets it might have, because it will plain put you off. Even me, someone who loves it, and thought licorice needed to be featured more in perfume at one time, could (and did) feel a bit fatigued by this because it is quite a heavy wear, and Licorice is somewhat of a recent trend in perfumery and I've definitely smelled it coupled with strong amber accords like this one before. (There's an Armani Prive one which is actually more subtle than Petra) However, I have to return to the fact that this is a really lovely, well made perfume, without any of the screechy, jarring BS of Halfeti or anything like that. Funny that tea is mentioned this does have some odd tea like quality, sandwiched somewhere between the resinous, tacky (texturally) myrrh and the dry, rooty, woody aromas, also the anisic quality of fennel (which I don't really get if I'm honest) IS actually a key component to creating that licorice feel. I'm onboard, I wouldn't buy it myself just because it didn't speak to me as loudly as I like, but I wouldn't blame anyone for being into it.

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Guerlain Derby (Vintage)

Derby (Vintage)

I mean for me, this is the greatest masculine Guerlain and probably one of the greatest fragrances for men ever created, so it's a little redundant to talk about notes and such but to me this is a vibrant powdery, carnation and quintessential mossy perfume. Elegant, aerated just perfect and can do no wrong in my eyes. One issue I have is the price and scarcity of the vintage bottle, (not helped by reviews like this one) is extremely prohibitive and I'm someone who has admired this perfume from afar for many years, just watching supplies dry up and prices skyrocket, so I've only got myself to blame. Another thing is that while the older bottles have all that vintage charm and aged, base body and depth, I feel as though the reissued Parisiens version has understandably brighter top notes, and more of the original intent that the old stuff probably had, when it was new, and just an overall appeal to me personally, so I guess that's why I'd seek that one out. And finally did.....but now that's been discontinued. eeek!!! Bottom line is this is an amazing, landmark piece of perfumery, and a friend of mine recently sent me a sample to reacquaint myself with the vintage version and it's just spectacular to wear and feel.

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Vera Wang Sheer Veil

I'm extremely annoyed that Stephanotis is mentioned in the description, but not shown in the pyramid. I own a Stephanotis plant and I can say with 100% certainty that Stephanotis is the main player here (not Lily as I once thought, ever-present as she may be). I can't think of another floral fragrance that has no real top or base notes to speak of. On paper, this could seem like an overwhelming choice with its cast of boss flowers, and at times it absolutely can be. But if you can find the application sweet spot, it's truly beautiful and intoxicating for anyone who, like me, wants to eat, breathe, and bathe in flowers. I think the Stephanotis is what makes this truly special and keeps it from being like every other white floral (no shade--I love white florals). I find myself hoarding this because every other backup bottle I've purchased has a lack of freshness that ruins its beauty. Perhaps it's time to break this one out of hiding. NB: EL Pleasures is an absolutely reliable dupe. Same vibe, though it's missing the beloved Stephanotis.

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Lattafa Perfumes Khamrah

Lattafa Perfumes

This is very different to Angel's Share but stil an amazing fragrance, especially when considering its price point!. To me it's like a blend of navitus xo brandy and something else🤔. I thought it would be redundant owning both this and Angel's Share but i can say i was happily wrong😊. The performance on this is serious!, better than Angel's Share even and the presentation is WILD!!. This frag could easily cost double its asking price. Definitely blind buy worthy!.

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Navitus Parfums Reve Nuit

Navitus Parfums

My fave freshie in my collection. Although projection might not be the best, longevity and smell are just😍. Hands down the best fresh type of frag ive come across PERSONALLY. This is creamy, sweet and seductive all while being fresh and versitile. Signature scent worthy for sure👌🏿.

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Theo Fennell Theo Fennell Scent

Theo Fennell Scent

This perfume is spectacularly good!!!! Not to overestimate my powers as an 'Influencer' (or influenza? Jesus I hate and reject that term and in no way feel I am that or whatever) but.... I kinda don't want me or anyone else to big this perfume up too much because there's a finite supply and it's such a bloody hidden gem of a thing. Chypre lovers with cream their respective undergarments over this turbo, powdery, peachy opening, and dirty urinal cake undercurrent, shimmering, lightly metallic, honied musk, body odour cumin (actually caraway apparently but very similar) of something like Rochas Femme, Akro Night, kingdom, or mostly the fantastic Salome by Papillon artisan perfumes. As fantastic as that particular perfume is, Theo Fennell is spectacularly better than that! It's smoother more refined, it's transitions are seamless and beautiful. After all the slightly naughty excitement of the opening couple of hours you're left with a really nice musky, powdery rose hip, with strong ambery apricot chypre. This perfume is fucking brilliant!!!!! It's not just a take on a classic theme, it's truly a ballsy innovative piece, timeless is what it is. Who is it by? you might ask, well Christophe Laudamiel and Domicile Bertier apparently and what a way to knock it straight out of the park for a brand which is apparently a Jeweler (Thanks Fliss) who makes some really innovative pieces and clearly had a precise vision for their one and only perfume which was a total flop, but will gain immortality with fragrance enthusiasts because this is a blinder of a perfume.

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By Kilian Back to Black

Smells like mentholated honey cough sweets. Heavy on the honey and pollen. Reminiscent of Bee Zoologist in that way. The tobacco is fleeting. Missable.

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Caron Le 3e Homme de Caron

Le 3e Homme de Caron

This is one of those fragrances that I've always been aware of without ever really coming into contact with. I think I sprayed it in a shop once perhaps? Anyway I have now and I've got to say it's superb! To me it still has the main two components which made the original Homme so iconic and popular, the interplay of vanilla and lavender, however, as minimal and playfully 'nothing' as that fragrance is, this has way more heft without overstepping into one of those cloying, annoying fougere types but also not too dainty and elegant as to undermine the masculinity. It's a mossier, spicier version of the lavender centered perfume, with a drydown and soft, vanillic and meditative as the original. Let’s talk about the opening though, it sparkles with a labdanic effect, which gives the whole thing a luxurious feel, it’s a kind of creamy middle ground between Chypre and Fougere. I love it. I've seen it in a million peoples collections who I know like all this sort of business that I do, so it shouldn't come as such a surprise that a Caron perfume is great. I need it in my life, get in my wardrobe!!!

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Pharrell Williams Girl

Pharrell Williams

Like a friendlier, more universal Fahrenheit with a touch of comforting baby powder. It’s really good and available at a snip. No brainer.

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By Kilian Fun Things Always Happen After Sunset

Fun Things Always Happen After Sunset

Almost every fibre of my being wants to dismiss this fragrance as some more fruity BS, which is supposed to be all playful and daring but is actually just not a very good perfume. I did say ‘almost’ because the great big, gurgling, sweet toothed, child inside me, can’t help but embrace this perfume and want to give it a great big hug and take it home with me. Also… ‘not a very good perfume’ isn’t true either, I don’t recall smelling anything like this, I’m no expert on these fruity, femme marketed florals but I’ve not smelled anything like this. It’s exotic and fruity in a way usually reserved for tropical tropes and beats you’ve smelled before. If this is the lychee accord then it’s really lovely. In fact I hadn’t had a lychee for years until the pandemic came and we were all at home and that, I got some super exotic fruit basket delivered, with a mix of shit I couldn’t even pronounce and the lychee (and similar) were AMAZING!!! So tasty and fragrant. Anyway, this is a really well constructed scent, dries down to a gorgeous rounded, soft musk too. Not my style, but from an amateur perfumery point of view fascinating fruity accord and minimal, modern structure I like. I enjoyed it overall.

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Soma Parfums Halcyon

Very nice cherry pipe tobacco with a bit of booze and a bit of sweetness underneath.

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Soma Parfums Halcyon

Opens really heavy on the toffee, a dash of rum. Then the gorgeous tobacco appears. It’s brilliant. Perfect autumn/winter fragrance. Top marks.

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Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Summer Ocean Wave

Tommy Summer Ocean Wave

People who are comparing this to Cool Water have a broken nose 😂 I would say this is what a summer version of Tommy Impact would smell like.

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Navitus Parfums XO Brandy

Navitus Parfums

This here was the best purchase of 2021 for me!. This managed to knockoff/tie with Kilian Black Phantom. This smells soooooooo sexy. It's like a sweeter, airy, slightly fresher Black Phantom with huge performance. Hinestly this is a expensive restuarant type of frag👌🏿. Juat buy it!. Another hit from Sidonie😎

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Louis Vuitton L’Immensité

Okay so to date I've tried no LV fragrances. This is my first one and I have to say, it's really quite nice. I mean 'quite' and 'nice' ??? I'm not exactly professing my undying love from a rooftop or anything but I'm wearing it today and it's hugely enjoyable. My initial notes said 'Dylan Blue except not for twats' but maybe this is? For twats I mean. I mean LV stuff is generally, sorry. Clearly I can’t afford it but I probably wouldn’t want it if I could. I only make that comparison because of the obvious masculine 'blue' smell to this perfume ( I actually don't think it smells like that as such, but interesting that some have listed Dylan blue here and BdC also listed here which I'd say it shares much more in common with) , but it has a certain elegance which means I'm reluctant to bash it as a mere shower gel, or deodorant smelling nicety. Also reminds me a bit of that grossly underrated Davidoff (I literally can’t remember the name of) I want to say Adventure? Adventurer? (If only there was a hugely popular and easy to access online database to check….yeah I’m writing a review right now and can’t be bothered opening another tab) It was good….that’ all you need to know. So what's clever and more refined about this then? Well the opening brightness is really lovely, then you have this nagging 90's aquatic floral smell at the back, which in 2022 is a telling olfactory metaphor for the fact...the 90's were fucking ages ago. Me using it as a perpetual frame of reference is the equivalent of a boomer banging on about how good the 60's were but anyway. The ginger and twist of effervescent citrus are welcome as the saltiness of this fragrance really starts to chime in, and I guess that's what makes this 'niche' or 'higher end', or more 'refined' or whatever I said to justify this massively mediocre crowd pleaser being an expensive Louis Vuitton. Which is fine. It’s tough to make something widely ubiquitous, fresh, and all that jazz, with a certain, transparency and subtlety of floral and musky notes, but manage to elevate it slightly. I think that’s what Cavalier has achieved here. Look I'm not one of these arseholes who says citrus fragrances 'SHOULD' be cheap. I mean why? They are literally one of the hardest things to do and excel at. Name me a good citrus by a self trained Indy perfumer, go on? No you can't do it can you? Because there aren’t any. I enjoyed this. It's a good wear but I'm never gona be in love with it. It is what it is.

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Memoirs Of A Perfume Collector A Night in Marrakesh

A Night in Marrakesh

Memoirs Of A Perfume Collector

This is the brand’s most refined, classy offering. It’s such a complex, yet laid-back fragrance. I actually think it’s their masterpiece. Blended so you find it difficult to pick out different notes, which I love, this is easily their most accessible and wearable scent. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest

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Memoirs Of A Perfume Collector Tales From Zanzibar

Tales From Zanzibar

Memoirs Of A Perfume Collector

This is a blockbuster of a fruit fragrance. Tropical fruit and sea air, like drinking fruit punch on a hot, sandy beach. It’s powerful, persistent, fairly linear and probably the best guava scent you’re ever going to smell outside of a fruit market. Go, seek this out, and enjoy!

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