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Guerlain L’Homme Ideal Eau de Parfum

L’Homme Ideal Eau de Parfum

It smells like expensive pâtisserie. That's not to say it's bad, but it isn't the exciting journey most other Guerlain fragrances send me on. I don't regret the buy, but this will be a one off. The intense and extreme flankers are both streets ahead of this, with the dazzling openings and deep, rich dry-downs I've come to expect from the house. I think maybe a touch more spice or some more florals would perk this up, but then you can get that from the intense, and the extreme has doubled down on the rich fruit leather.

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Guerlain Heritage Eau de Parfum

Heritage Eau de Parfum

I find the dirty musk tone quite sensual, and the bouquet of rich floral tones goes superbly with the woods. Bizarrely it performs badly for something so pungent (in a good way) on the opening. I struggle to find anything that performs well these days, although L'IDG EDP does, as do Habit Rouge EDP and Vetiver (those are the only ones). If they're going to water everything down, they should include mini atomisers with the bottle, as this needs several reapplications during the day.

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Memoirs Of A Perfume Collector Origins of the Collector

Origins of the Collector

Memoirs Of A Perfume Collector

1st thing, BE WARNED! ⚠️, this is not for the faint hearted. Super potent black espresso note. This is toooooooooo much coffee, to the point where it's extremely difficult to pick out anything else from it. Imagine pouring freshly brewed black coffee over yourself, that's what this smells like. I feel this needs a lot more sweetness to be wearable. Performance ofcourse is astronomical. Lasted over 17 hours on skin and well past 3 days on clothes. But for me this is a very headache inducing smell cause its so dark and strong. Oh and this is com8ng from someone who loves dark, gourmandy, winter frags. Imo the beat from this house with absolute no competition is Lost in the desert!😍, now that there i NEED 100ml of😅.

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Guerlain Vetiver Eau de Toilette

Vetiver Eau de Toilette

Addictive, juicy and unique. I can't put my finger on what I love so much about this. It should be harsh (my first spray in the store took me by surprise and I thought I'd hate it), but it quickly relaxes into a delicious, rich, fresh green breeze. I'm currently wearing it on a rainy autumn day and it's perfect. Any perfume that gives me several moments of joy through the day, as I catch it and remember I'm wearing it, is a win for me. I think it's quite polarising. I've had positive and negative (albeit politely negative) feedback, but the ones who questioned it prefer subtle skin scents, which this is not. The dirty civet note is perhaps where the magic lies, I'm not sure, but in any case every time I spray it I notice something different and wonderful, without it being too busy. Summer update: In hot weather this blossoms into a neroli fantasy, and I can smell all of the notes way more than in winter. It almost makes me wonder whether I ever smelled strong vetiver, or if it was in fact a combination of the many different things in the blend. In any case this remains a classic, and I'm glad I finally got to smell it thriving in the heat. Update: having tested countless other vetivers, most expensive, this is one of the only ones that doesn't turn sour after an hour.

For me, nothing beats vetiver perfume for rainy weather, and this and Encre Noir are the be all and end all for me. So many others have tried to better it, but not even Guerlain has succeeded with the new parfum version, which is a just pffff meh (yawn). This is an astonishing perfume, and even the newest formulation is an absolute masterpiece.

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Sarah Baker Perfumes Atlante

Sarah Baker Perfumes

Oh my, this takes me straight to Southwold, a gorgeous little seaside town on the Suffolk coast (UK) filled with cute little boutique clothing stores, yummy fish and chip places and cozy pubs. Atlante is a gorgeous marine scent. I can smell the pebbled beaches, the salt of the North Sea, that ozonic sea air you get as you walk around town and the smell of posh bougie stores. It’s absolutely gorgeous. I’m in love with this one. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest

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Sarah Baker Perfumes Greek Keys

Sarah Baker Perfumes

I adore Greek Keys, and own the special edition Parfum miniature. Here in extrait, I think it works even better. You can feel the golden sun flickering off the blue azure Mediterranean Sea, all fresh and ozonic. I particularly like the oakmoss as it gives off more of a myrtle like seaweediness. A sparkling, aquatic fougere. Makes me long for the Greeks islands I hold so dear.

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Sarah Baker Perfumes Leopard

Sarah Baker Perfumes

Easily my favourite from Sarah Baker’s extrait collection. Props to Ashley Eden Kessler. To me the opening smells like a heady night out in the richest, trendiest areas of London. Resins and cardamom meld in the top, lifted by a spicy black pepper. The mid is all about the cassis and patch. Love this one.

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Sarah Baker Perfumes Rules of Attraction

Rules of Attraction

Sarah Baker Perfumes

Rules of Attraction is a musky, iris-based leather fragrance with bright, light florals. It’s a flirty, playful leather, with a sexy animalic side thanks to the addition of civet. Dries down more woody iris and the brand’s notes mention an antique rosewood accord which adds a more restrained aspect to the kink of the rest of the notes. I would say this is a wonderful spring fragrance and for fans of iris, civet and leather, you are gonna get a real kick out of this.

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Mallo Jiz

Anyone else expecting to see ambergris in the notes or just me?

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Guerlain Shalimar Eau de Parfum

Shalimar Eau de Parfum

The Grand High Priestess of the guerlinade legacy. Gobsmackingly well put-together. Just make sure you dress and behave appropriately for someone wearing something so exquisite.

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Calvin Klein CK One Red Edition for Her

CK One Red Edition for Her

This is an absolutely disgusting ozone bomb. Extremely harsh and artificial. I tried it in an attempt to find a dupe for Liz Claiborne Liz, but it did not meet expectation. Liz is more aquatic than ozonic, and certainly not to this level of stank.

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Sarah Baker Perfumes Tartan

Sarah Baker Perfumes

If “make it smell like tartan” was the brief, this perfumes creators have well and truly knocked it out of the park. It smells like musty highland garments - in the best possible way - stored in the upstairs bedroom of a Scottish castle. Downstairs in the library there’s a roaring fire where the landowner is defrosting following a round of wet, cold, coastal golf with a glass of single malt in hand. Put simply, this is art made wearable. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest

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Etat Libre d'Orange Putain Des Palaces

Putain Des Palaces

Etat Libre d'Orange

This has a mad opening to me. I smell a discrete rose accord which is either tacky or the most accurate and refined rose I've ever smelled, I genuinely don't know which? lol. However, that's all irrelevant because the accord is oddly very fleeting and Putain is not about roses it's a powdery, musky fragrance with a sort of artistic bite, preventing it from being a completely friendly, cute affair. I wouldn't say it's animalic or anything overt but there's an undercurrent of something heading in that direction. It possesses that creative punky spark Etat used to have, but has been lost somewhat in recent years. I get an overarching femininity to it and that was set to be the final decider for me (not that I don't own any femme perfumes, of course I do) until the deep drydown of purely endulgent, beautiful musks, close to the skin a heavenly blend of ambrette softness and pink powdery tones. I mean, sure there's loads of fragrances which have great base notes where you might not necessarily get on with the rest, and I can't go around buying perfumes to enjoy after 8 hours, not that I didn't enjoy the start of this mind you. I actually loved the muskiness SO much that I would consider getting this one.

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Penhaligon's Savoy Steam

This one passed me by completely this release, Now that I've caught up frankly, I'm not enamored. I find it's a bit too balanced, as in the elements like eucalyptus, geranium and tea, could've been real players in the composition and are blended, almost beyond recognition. I mean, what a thing to moan about hey? feel like a right whinger, but this is a disappointing, albeit unique smelling perfume. So you do get this herbal, puff of spa retreat steam at first, complete with warmth and the sense of humidity in the opening gambit, somewhere between white musk and 'clean' associations, alive with 'products' and then a buttery undercurrent starts to develop. It's kinda bland, unpopular biscuit left at the bottom of the barrel kind of energy. I don't quite mean that as it sounds. I actually think that it gives some contrast and I'm glad it's there, because otherwise this fragrance would have little to talk about. It's just not my scene. I simply don't like it. Make it sharper even, the fact I'm advocating for more Eucalyptus or camphor (not a big fan) should tell you how bored I was with this fragrance, I just wanted to grab it by the lapels and shake some fucking life into it!

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Trudon Revolution

I was sent a sample of this by a friend as a much more palatable take on Tonnare by Beaufort. Other than the smoke, and the naval, military battle references, I don't get the connection particularly. Tonnare is a brutal mess of hairspray, seaspray, oppressive smoke and antique violence, This is for sure much more palatable, yet it's not particularly great, and not my cup o tea. The smoked ham/flint sort of note, swelling and pervading then retreating and revealing a much friendlier aspect. It's labdanum and sweeter toned perfume department stuff, accented with greens and a kind of incense accord. I get why my friend likes it. It's not heavy smoke, this is predominantly a resinous perfume with birch/guaiac phenolics over the top, a way more accessible, entery level, use of the smoky stuff, but if you like that you might find it a bit wanting, craving some more balls. Frankly I like my smokey perfumes to be even more subtley suggestive than this even, I think you can conjure smoke without having to go reaching for the birch tar or cade. In anycase revolution dries down much less smoky to me, far more perfumey and familiar It's a like. I can see what Lynn Harris has done here, not an avid though.

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Sarah Baker Perfumes Flame & Fortune

Flame & Fortune

Sarah Baker Perfumes

Warming, spicy, a little bit boozy, Flame & Fortune dances in the air like a crackling flame. The white florals are beautifully balanced and there’s a soft powdery quality, but not too much, just enough for it to smell clean. I love the apricot mixed with tuberose and pink pepper; the sillage is laced with these notes and it smells divine.

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Frederic Malle Uncut Gem

Yes so I own this now. Frederic Malle would rather have me buy a 10ml and return if I don't like it, than simply supply a sample, but hey ho, jokes on me because when Celine did that with a full bottle, I ended up keeping it, looks like this will be the same. Is that because I love it? No. Uncut gem is not the most fascinating or creative olfactory artwork in the world, but artwork it is nonetheless. If this was released by a 'lesser brand' you might dismiss it as weak, high street, rubbish, hell some Malle detractors might feel this is par for the course. I don't. I feel he's (they've) very deliberately made a fragrance here which almost cocks a snook at those designer realm 'freshies' I mean perhaps I give FM too much credit but I always feel everything is deliberate and so close to the hackneyed stuff I'd usually moan about from some new indy brand, but somehow, low key parody, while also elevated. Malle has almost established a kind of immunity from criticism, and not because I blindly love everything he does but because the perfumes really are clear visions. I mean, anyone who moans about this was quite clearly told in the blurb that it was ambroxan heavy and kinda citrus, with a masculine twist, (Basically they prepared you for it not being all that exciting) and that's what it is. There's a strange effect when it's applied a kind of olfactory swell, where the sea has gone out and the waves are about to come back in all at once. It's a kind of anosmic void, you know stuff is there and there's a topnote of sorts but it's the effect of modern, aroma chemical affairs like this. I smell a kind of mandarin orange and grapefruit citrus which is extremely pleasant and then the relentless, woody powder of ambroxan and hedione, all diffusive and pushing a little twinkle of gingery spice on a breeze. I do get a kind of roughness and perhaps that's the 'uncut' element to what seems like a pretty clean, and precisely cut stone in the main. It is ever so slightly leathery, you might think I'm mad for saying that but it has those, kinda masculine, fumes that tenacious, fuel effect of woody ambers just finishing off this composition. I don't like looking at notes and the description so far is only by my nose and the initial marketing I read and swiftly forgot, but I glanced at the notes here and angelica is interesting because it's included in two other predominantly masculine Malle's Geranium pour monsieur and French Lover. I do get some of it's bright, slightly translucent green, charm in this. I could just be imagining that because I saw it listed though? Point is, (and striving to be as objective as possible here), if this was released by Davidoff or Burberry as some transitory outlier line to the flagship, destined to end up in bargain buckets before the years out, I'd give credit where it's due and say it's still a good perfume. Not hugely exciting but I'd give it credit for having a classiness and great use of common materials to make something more effective and appealing by doing LESS. However that's not what those kind of companies want in the main, they are committee'd into popping that bubblegum or 'EVERYTHING' note from Eros, or Dylan Blue or whatever?? Had it been made by Memo, (which it could well have been) I'd still accept it's appeal but I'd roll my eyes at paying some daft sum of money for the pretense of the 'world's finest raw materials', but at least you get a fancy bottle right? Malle strips all of that away, as a welcome artist who strips all of that away. Yes you're paying for the name, (outragously so with The Night...etc....) but that's the case with everything and I hold Malle in high regard even when he (and Roucel) make quite an average perfume, which is kinda what Uncut gem is. Just to speak to it's masculinity again for a moment (clearly part of the brief) there's something about these understated, fresh perfumes which seem to be popular with the bro crowd and Uncut Gem might just be a hit in the same way Luis Vuitton L'immensite or Dior's Bois D'Argent, you just never can tell what is going to gain traction. I suspect this perfume is one I don't immediately connect with as such, but think is very nice but will likely grow in stature and my affections.

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Lattafa Perfumes Qaed Al Fursan

Lattafa Perfumes

Now this isn't my kind of fragrance but i wont lie, I've kept it only because of the sheer amount of compliments i get with it. Its ridiculous how much people love this smell and thats the sad reality that people just tend to like/know citrus fresh frags. A lot of the general public cant appreciate the darker, gourmandish frags😕😮💨🤷🏾♂️

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Guerlain Guerlain Homme Eau de Parfum (2016)

Guerlain Homme Eau de Parfum (2016)

Thankfully, I'm not getting much mojito from this. Yes it's minty and has a lime twist, but the sweetness isn't there. Instead it's a crisp, floral landscape, with an early morning frost. The opening minty blast is soon tempered by the depth and warmth of the vetiver and woody base, resulting in a delicious, complex fresh scent that I suspect will work in any weather. It's currently mild autumn and I'm finding it perfect. I must say I can't detect any rum at all, but then it's been years since I've drunk alcohol so maybe I've forgotten what it smells like. I'd probably rather not smell like rum anyway. The first time I sprayed this, I was a bit taken aback, as its very different to any other perfume I've come across, but as with most Guerlain perfumes, I quickly u-turned into being fully in love with it. Bravo!

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Fred Hayman 273 Indigo

This opens up with a bright, dish soapy orange. Not horrific, but not optimal. If you give it a little time (and not much time, really), the drydown is a lovely warm spicy floral that I would have sworn was tagetes and not carnation. I also get a lingering essence of orange in the form of maybe petitgrain or something. I think temperature affects this one very much. The opening comes off more juicy than soapy on warmer skin. This does not have great projection, but would work nicely as a personal scent. I can see using this as a bed scent, if only for the drydown.

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Sarah Baker Perfumes Gold Spot

Sarah Baker Perfumes

The latest release from Sarah Baker and the third in the oud trilogy - Gold Spot drips with the glamour of the Golden Age of Cinema. The trilogy has been created by Chris Maurice, using three constant materials, natural oud, cypriol and orange blossom. Crucially, the perfumer has used these materials each time with a different set of adjuncts taking each composition in a new, different direction. With Gold Spot, Chris has added notes of sweet myrrh, butterscotch and dark chocolate to two natural oud tinctures, resulting in the most gorgeous chocolatey opening. If Loudo was a Milky Bar, Gold Spot is more of a Terry’s Chocolate Orange. Now imagine a whole stack of them, each one individually wrapped in the fine, glamorous golden wrapping of a Fererro Rocher and piled high on a silver tray at some schmoozy Oscars afterparty, Marlon Brando and Marilyn Monroe sat in the corner trying to surreptitiously conceal the chocolate stains around their mouth that betray their gluttony. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest This is a perfume you’ll want to crack open and devour, whether dressed in a tux, or ball gown. The oud here is a little more animal than in previous releases, but I absolutely love it.

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Sarah Baker Perfumes Loudo

Sarah Baker Perfumes

The second in Sarah Baker’s trilogy of oud fragrances composed by Chris Maurice and containing three particular notes, cypriol, orange blossom, and natural oud. In naming the fragrance Loudo, a clever wordplay conjoining the Latin word for play (Ludo) with the word oud, we can largely decipher the premise for this release to be that of a cheeky wink from the brand and perfumer. It’s all about having fun; that includes the childish fun of one’s formative years as well as the sensual kind of fun we enjoy as adults. This is certainly a playful concoction, dreamt up by the Willy Wonka of Oud, and containing notes of white chocolate and cherry as well as the aforementioned materials. The result is a dreamy, semi-gourmand creation where oud plays dress up, imbuing into the creation all its chocolatey goodness, while the vanilla ensures it smells just like a milky bar with a fruity cherry ripple running through it. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest Cheeky, fun, yummy and grown up - it’s not too sweet - it’s just really very lovely.

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Sarah Baker Perfumes Symmetry

Sarah Baker Perfumes

Something is symmetrical when it has two matching halves, so it makes sense that Symmetry has two sides which certainly do complement each other harmoniously. It is the first release in a trilogy of oud-based perfumes created for the brand by the master of oud, Chris Maurice, using orange blossom, cypriol, and natural laos ouds. Bearing in mind each three contain natural ouds tinctured by CM, the $ per ml is an absolute steal. Huge props to Sarah on this. Symmetry’s first half has the composition of a neroli cologne, all fresh citrus and green notes. Oud plays a significant role in the other half and between the two, they bring together a fantastic perfume that is never too much of one side or the other. Having sampled all three of the trilogy, I find this one the least challenging. For fans of oud, all three are worth seeking out and for those put off by it, these are all accessible enough to get you started enjoying oud. With most oud fragrances containing only a synthetic oud note, be it from Givaudan or one of the other big companies, it is fantastic to have these three great value options as an entry into the world of natural oud perfumery.

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Guerlain L'Homme Idéal L'Intense

L'Homme Idéal L'Intense

A beautiful series of moments when I find myself catching this in the air around me. It manages to have powerful (and ultra-realistic) cardamom, but in a gentle way that ends up giving me a sort of spiced orange feel, without being Christmassy. I have just discovered Guerlain, and I'm blown away again and again by the artistry of their perfumes (and the affordable prices). This is an autumn sprig of golden-brown in an ornate park in the crisp sunshine. Gorgeous! I feel gorgeous wearing it. This is what Gentleman by Givenchy is trying to do.

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