On Essential parfums: Every now and again a brand comes along that really hits on every level. Essential parfums is one those brands. Superb perfumes, nothing superfluous or irrelevant in the lineup, a nice number of releases, Frederic Malle style focus on perfumers (all of which are fantastic master perfumers) with their name (and picture) pride of place on the bottle and marketing materials. A commitment to sustainability, in terms of perfume materials and packaging, transparency about natural naturals used and their source, and the really important thing to most consumers an pledge to keep prices affordably low without sacrificing quality. So a brand that truly adds value and brings a lot to the table. I have huge admiration and respect for them and they should be applauded for the whole concept of the brand. Mon Vetiver is really great. I can't fault it's themes, might put some on the back foot as there's a controlled jibe of woody amber in the opening (moreso on a strip) but when applied to skin the vetiver aspect comes alive!!! It's fresh top notes, effervesce with juniper and quinine vibes, so the G&T association is there as is the classic pairing of grapefruit and vetiver, sharing that bitter edge. I think it's great, it's a minimal piece but considering Bruno does a few for Malle, he's not phoning it in here. I'm picky about vetivers and this although really decent doesn't fully do the job for me, as in recent years I've started to prize (Vintage) Guerlain vetiver as my favourite vetiver as it has a little more grit than something like this. however if I was ever was in the market for a functional, synthy, vetiver I'd get this over many others as I love the brand and feel that the value on offer here is just too hard to pass on. This is a must for vetiver lovers to at least check it out, because you will be seriously impressed I'd say.
On Essential parfums: Every now and again a brand comes along that really hits on every level. Essential parfums is one those brands. Superb perfumes, nothing superfluous or irrelevant in the lineup, a nice number of releases, Frederic Malle style focus on perfumers (all of which are fantastic master perfumers) with their name (and picture) pride of place on the bottle and marketing materials. A commitment to sustainability, in terms of perfume materials and packaging, transparency about natural naturals used and their source, and the really important thing to most consumers an pledge to keep prices affordably low without sacrificing quality. So a brand that truly adds value and brings a lot to the table. I have huge admiration and respect for them and they should be applauded for the whole concept of the brand. The comparisons here on Fragrantica are literally crazy!!! Bigarade,? okay, the Candida I'm not familiar with, blood oranges I have and like but NO!!! & Clinique happy??? are you off your rocker??? I sort of love that fragrance but it's an insult to compare it to this quite frankly! Sure when I got the samples and heard the name I thought, I bet I know what that will smell like and it largely delivers it a orange top over creamy sandalwood, does exactly what it says on the tin!!!! and yet it's so much more. For sheer enjoyment factor it's much nicer than a Happy or a Blood oranges, I own both and I'm telling you now this is a totally different experience. For starters the orange accord in here is wonderful. Bitter pith and sweet orange oil conspire to give a realistic but not too real orange, it's still a perfume orange. All the while this is being propped up and exalted by a great sandalwood accord which is not nutty, or weird as they can somtimes be and it's not too heavily reliant on one synthetic sandalwood (like Javanol for example) contains sandalwood from Australia to give it that je ne sais quoi. Wear it though and you'll discover a lovely, lasting, orange on top of a soft skin scent of pleasant santal. The smell still hasn't surprised me but how much I like it certainly has. UPDATE 17/05/21: Okay so I think my nose was on the blink when I first sniffed this or I didn't wear it (in fact I know I didn't and perhaps that's why you should before reviewing) properly just tried on a strip and my arm. Because it's basically a spicy sandalwood, with a brushy, modern incense feel and doesn't smell dissimilar to santal 33 only with a markedly more mild papyrus note. However, it's there and despite the true loveliness of the orange note in the opening, it's still a trendy Le labo crossed with some 90's sandalwood designers like D&G or Gucci. The thing is I don't hate santal 33 but I really don't care for it either, it gets on my nerves for about 80% of the wear time (clearly too much) and this has similar tenacity and timbre. So it's a no. I don't think it's a deliberate attempt to make a copy or anything but there's a finite amount of sandalwood materials and ways to bring them together and there's inevitably going to be intersections. The orange is a nice touch though and actually really compliments the fragrance.
On Essential parfums: Every now and again a brand comes along that really hits on every level. Essential parfums is one those brands. Superb perfumes, nothing superfluous or irrelevant in the lineup, a nice number of releases, Frederic Malle style focus on perfumers (all of which are fantastic master perfumers) with their name (and picture) pride of place on the bottle and marketing materials. A commitment to sustainability, in terms of perfume materials and packaging, transparency about natural naturals used and their source, and the really important thing to most consumers an pledge to keep prices affordably low without sacrificing quality. So a brand that truly adds value and brings a lot to the table. I have huge admiration and respect for them and they should be applauded for the whole concept of the brand. Rose Magnetic Gorgeous!!! Lovely, mellow, not overly sweet rose. There's been some really lovely roses along the lines of this recently, beautifully supported, natural smelling roses. Velvet rose, propped up in all the right places by musks and warmth and lovely complementary top notes, like pink pepper or here there's Litchi listed in the notes. I'll buy it! Kinda fresh top, sure litchi okay. cool. I mean why would you bother with a screeching JAM, from Montale or a cheapo, crude PEA & rose crystal affair for a more money from a 'niche' brand? So good for the money and another example of a lovely rose accord which probably only uses a tiny amount of rose absolute but gets a hell of a lot out of it, with careful balance, Bravo Sophie Labbe. Comes highly recommended.
On Essential parfums: Every now and again a brand comes along that really hits on every level. Essential parfums is one those brands. Superb perfumes, nothing superfluous or irrelevant in the lineup, a nice number of releases, Frederic Malle style focus on perfumers (all of which are fantastic master perfumers) with their name (and picture) pride of place on the bottle and marketing materials. A commitment to sustainability, in terms of perfume materials and packaging, transparency about natural naturals used and their source, and the really important thing to most consumers an pledge to keep prices affordably low without sacrificing quality. So a brand that truly adds value and brings a lot to the table. I have huge admiration and respect for them and they should be applauded for the whole concept of the brand. So, I'd only tried the musc at first and for a good while nothing else from the brand, then I got the sample set and now I'm on Divine vanille which seems to be the most talked about from essential parfums. I can see why in a sense, it's an impactful, full blooded, vanilla fragrance. The comparisons to Herod are somewhat understandable but also a bit misleading too, the intent of this fragrance is quite different. The tobacco or cherry/almond facet is minimal, just an artefact from the kind of balsamic vanilla this is and I find quickly dissipates. I found the opening hour or two to be a mildly boozy, cocoa butter, caramelised vanilla, which while not unpleasant I don't necessarily associate with massively 'high quality' or a good mimick of vanilla absolute. This is a scent which unfolds over time and becomes more and more pleasant, releasing those woodier qualities. It's still sweet but I can enjoy it and I get why it's popular. Then BAM!!!! I'm confronted by a mild, dry, floral accord/note which for me marries beautifully and if it wasn't there my appraisal of this scent would be quite different I suspect, so it kinda makes the perfume. I've no idea what it is but they feel like dry, velvety, slightly decayed rose or geranium perhaps? I've no clue, and subtle to the point I could be imagining of perceiving it. It's still primarily vanilla and gets, softer and more supple still, but subdued, which is preferable to how it opened. This is a really good, long lasting deep vanilla, but on a personal level, they're just not my thing.
On Essential parfums: Every now and again a brand comes along that really hits on every level. Essential parfums is one those brands. Superb perfumes, nothing superfluous or irrelevant in the lineup, a nice number of releases, Frederic Malle style focus on perfumers (all of which are fantastic master perfumers) with their name (and picture) pride of place on the bottle and marketing materials. A commitment to sustainability, in terms of perfume materials and packaging, transparency about natural naturals used and their source, and the really important thing to most consumers an pledge to keep prices affordably low without sacrificing quality. So a brand that truly adds value and brings a lot to the table. I have huge admiration and respect for them and they should be applauded for the whole concept of the brand. So Bois imperial is instantly recognisable as that Bisch vibe of incense that he has so brilliantly crafted for Barrois, Penhaligons and ELDO to name a few. Superb, strong, otherworldly modern resin perfume, with a twinkly aura. There's green aspects, with rough barbed incense, labdanic, olibanic fruitiness in the top notes, with futurist leather and dense woods, it effervesces out of the bottle . This perfume is amazing and for £65 for 100ml (and potentially cheaper with a discount code) this is a must have and no brainer for those who love Barrois Ganymede and the likes. The problem is, while I accept this is a five star, out of this world perfume and I think Bisch has hit on a rich vein of creativity with these perfumes I really do...It gets on my nerves a bit. I hate to say it. My love of the opening is masked after a few hours, too much of a good thing perhaps? Maybe it's the long and complex change & my tastes are mutating? It's a bit like growing old or something, swapping the excitement of staying out all night clubbing (Bois Imperial) for more sedate, grown up activities and to bed yearly with cocoa and question time. (The Musc) My appreciation of great perfume goes beyond what I would wear myself (not saying I'm not going to buythis because I'd be foolish not to) but into things that I can appreciate because of the novelty of the formula or other more 'technical' rationale.
Please don't evoke the Velvet underground classic to try to sell me this perfume. I'll be the judge of what's wild thankyou very much indeed. I assume the 'wild' refers to a hefty glug of parched IBQ leather accord with sweet piercing cassis and musk. I quite like the fragrance (so why the negative tone??? I'm such a dick!) for the simple juxtaposition of sweet/fresh and smokey/oily/dirty/herbal. It's very 'synthetic' smelling and I rarely say that sentence because most people band it about as a derogatory term with overtones of 'natural is better' & not really understanding of what a synthetic material is....but anyway! You're in safe hands here, I mean Anti-nature, if that's something art is striving to replace the beauty of? not that everything should strive to emulate nature but you have to round out a fragrance so it doesn't smell like a collection of familiar, chemical beats. I'm not even saying this necessarily is that either, it's pleasant and wearable for me as I broadly dig the vibe or at least think it's okay, but I don't have a preference for it. So it did remind me of a Memo fragrance Irish/Italian/Swedish....what they on now? Mozambique leather? I have a fragrance I blind bought called Ambergris showers by Rasasi and it's like a clumsy, Montale version of this, but I still quite like it in a strange masochistic way. This is clearly more refined so, It's a like. I don't know if this review reads that way but I'm not saying this is bad. I think if you like Aventus (oddly enough) you will enjoy this fragrance.
I'd say this has the schmaltziest name out of them all & that's saying something. However, the opening to me was the most unique of the collection in my opinion. Shame the perfume as a whole is just not impactful enough to leave a lasting impression. Competent perfume again but I've just got very little to say about it. Sorry.
Okay so. Sun drop. I've no issue with the name, in fact I'm quite intrigued. The fragrance itself is a big, thick spicy opening and strange earthy saffron and leather, always familiar though, because resinous, labdanum and almost gourmand notes of cinnamon and ibq laced, oud accord are conspiring to make this smell like a few Carner Barcalona's and a touch of Black Afgano, Terenzi etc.... you know the vibes. The cinnamon actually reminds me of Molton and Brown mesmerising oudh accord and gold...except this clearly has more going on and for it. So I like it. It's very nice. It's like a kind of sexy biscuit. but a fashion that is at least 8-10 years old? But it's flaw is that it's nothing new. In the context of the collection that's totally in keeping.
"Let me stand next to your fire...." "Let me stand next to your fire....Let me stand baby... Oh hi! It's you. I was just singing some Jimi Hendrix, because I might as fucking well! Y'know keep myself entertained. The name says this to me. Fire!!! Passion. All that stuff... the perfume says... Nothing burning. Nothing particularly desirable. I'd like to be all melodramatic and leave it there but in truth this is a nice, fruity, floral perfume (sound familiar to the rest of the femmes in this line?) which smells a touch tropical for a moment, the accord even hints at the fleshy, juiciness of mango or something. Ultimately though it's nondescript. Warmed through with musks, it's pleasant but pointless to me. Take a fragrance which is very similar in terms of style, Parle moi de parfums, Chypre Mojo, that thing demands that you take note of it and it's kookiness. This next one is a slightly worse example because the combo with lavender is inspired but....Malle's Music for a while, the pineapple note in that is like syrup, it sticks in my mind and I can't help but be impacted by it. I doubt I'll remember what this smelled like tomorrow. See I'm not apposed to light fruity florals and if that's all this brand wanted to achieve with this release then fine, but I believe hardcore perfume fans will demand a little more. That's By Orlov's market isn't it? I can see these being heavily discounted at some point.
These names are killin' me. Hope. Okay I guess that's fair, it's not the worst name in this collection. (I do own a fragrance called hope come to think of it) Yeah, it's a pleasant floral fragrance which if you really pay attention to the top notes (I've applied it a few time now) you do get that piquant sweetness of pink pepper, but it's VERY fleeting, remarkably so actually, then develops a, peachy floral then more of a lightly woody musk with a touch of earth, just redeeming it from the brink of being completely redundant and boring. Only just though, it's still in keeping with the overall theme (certainly of the women's ones) of just being light and not especially memorable. Sometimes osmanthus can be a mildly peach scented afterthought but increasingly it's featuring in bolder compositions and while this isn't really one of them, it's nice. It's just nice. Feminine, soft, I'd never dream of wearing it, but it's nice.
Good vibes. Seriously? That was the best name you could come up with? I mean there's nothing wrong with it I suppose, but what's right with it? that's what I'd like to know. Almost entirely bored by this. It's a happy, fruity, floral. Nothing more. Nothing really to see here.
Loved Empower you! Yeah, I'm being nice about By Orlov! This is a sharp, fizzing citrus of grapefruit and lemon, over light cologne heart of delicate florals and dries down to a vague musk. Okay it's not setting the world alight but the opening really is something and the citrus is nicely extended throughout the composition. I can't knock it!!! Okay I'll try.... the name is silly. Empower who? Me? Minor criticism though.
Preamble: So allow me to not be very nice about these perfumes, hopefully in a very short and concise way. I had nothing against the brand previous to this, in fact I really enjoyed a couple of their previous back cat. I feel this 'By...' collection has somewhat missed the mark and the names rubbed me up the wrong way, the samples were 'free' from the website but actually postage from France was pretty pricey so....not really but that's just for starters . I gave a huge ranting explanation on IG so I'm not going to put too fine a point on it here, I was just disappointed by the lack of imagination of these. They're competent perfumes and I even liked a couple out the eight released, and I'm not saying every new perfume should be a groundbreaking, art piece, but some collections feel like they've just been cynically jizzed out for the sake of it. Sorry. It's a crowded market and unless you are bringing the ruckus, then kinda don't bother. This was the first one I tired and it's so saccharine sweet and reminiscent of every silly, screeching, jammy sweet, oud rose, evoking Montale or Mancera to me straight away. Rose perfumes, simply don't have to be this. I couldn't wear this, it's toooooooooo much. The vanillic qualities are brutal, the rose is brutal, the metallic musky qualities are brutal, the strength and tenacity are brutal. The nuance.... non existent. It's hard for me not to 'like' it because it's not an unpleasant smell per se and after about 10 hours when mellowed, sure it's kinda alright, but I don't think I could see it through those initial hours without feeling sick as a dog. If you're a fan of this kind of turbo oud rose that's been set fast in sugar syrup, then go ahead, but please don't wear it around me. Finally, There's a few ways the name could be interpretated. 1) Out of the box...The creative cliche. the dated, buzzword/sales speak to mean this is a rose perfume which gains it's inspiration from 'outside the box' , the metaphorical 'box' of conformity. 2) It's an entirely, on the nose, ironically knowing title, because it's clearly not thinking outside the box is it? 3) Totally post modern, hyper honest title about an off the shelf formula with not a bone of creativity or originality in it's body.... 'yeah guys, we just got it out of the box at the lab at IFF or Symerise.' You be the judge!
I get the connections to tabac blond ad Cuir canage but I'd say it's like a subtle, more elegant Knize ten. Also Creed's royal english leather gets a mention in the smells like, well I think the commonality here is the floral, leather base the wonderful waxy Cuir 17500. Now I'm not saying that it is definitely present, but it has the same creamy, orangeblossom/jasmine/ylang waxiness, and fleshy, smooth, iris, leather, quality which that base possesses. Any iteration and augmentation of this vibe, fascinates me. I find this to be floral but nowhere near as brutal ad full on as the Dior, neither is it Knize ten with it's masculine, soapier appeal. Cuir fetiche goes off in search of new ground and is largely successful at finding it in the shape of a more powdery feel than anything I've easily compared it to above. The fact that I don't find it redundant, and the change between opening and drydown is noticeable, (handy in this sort of fragrance) means that this is a winner for me. Another good outing from the house.
This fragrance reminds me in spirit of Batucada by L'Artisan while not smelling like it really, other than being a kind of fresh, fruity, cologne, scent. I get the subtlety and mild creaminess of lactones, which lends a slight coconut quality supporting essentially a mild green, citrus, musk. I really enjoyed it to be honest. Bahiana was all set to be a snorefest but it actually has some really endearing qualities and dries down to a beautiful base, which retains the fresh top notes.
So the ambers from this house are a interesting bunch, I doubt they'd have three or four if each didn't have something unique to say. I actually think that ambre mythique is my favourite upon a quick sniff. This is not a overly sweet amber, but the vibes of precieux are there, but the focus here is more on the incense aspect and that alive, zing but greasy medicinal feel of olibanum and the uncompromising heady myrrh, carefully woven in. I have to wear this properly to continue this review but the way resins are handled is really well considered.
I'm starting to appreciate patchouli perfumes in a whole new way from my dalliances into amateur perfumery. In a technical sense it's hard to extend and exalt patchouli and yet conversely it's also a very forgiving material, which blends very well with many other materials. It's either in a crucial support role, or it's the star of the show (like in this instance) and in order to get depth and do something interesting with it, you have to know what you're doing. I think this one is stunning, I really do. The quality here is astonishing. It's deep but it's not a heavy or hippy patchouli despite the kind of Hendrix-esque packaging of psychedelic, paisley. I get sandalwood, and discrete support, perhaps some resins, just helping to soften the hard bits and sharpen the duller aspects of patchouli. The result is a very fluid, smooth experience of smoky earth and mild, damp, camphor to sweeter truffle (I kinda mean mushroom and chocolate) the opening is actually quite bright, perhaps orange like? Then held down both warm and sweet with musks and resin. I think it's divine and my wardrobe is criminally under-subscribed with patchouli fragrances I can think of Zino and L'Instant homme and that's about it folks. This is really good for patch fans and just fans of nicely balanced perfume. I think if you are expecting a really, witchy, next level, power patchouli you would look elsewhere but still it can't be denied that this is one of if not the finest in this genre, certainly that I've ever sniffed. UPDATE:07/07/21 I think I forgot to say how much a lovely rose note is actually part of this composition, but it's quite veiled by all the Patchouli.
So I'm revisiting this brand after many years and they were actually among the first niche perfumes I tried with L'Artisan, Serge, Goutal, and Nicolai. I found this one fascinating, partly because it's transition from slightly bizarre, not so rouge, pineapple, fruity musk fragrance, into a kind of rose/geranium and probably my favourite floral, carnation fragrance is nothing short of miraculous. Genuinely not fond of the opening, has an 'off' sense to it but that's just the wonderful, clove tinged, creamy scent that emerges underneath possibly not jiving with the tropical top notes?? I'm not sure. I liked it when settled after an hour or so. I don't get the comparisons to Rochas femme, other than a carnation note there's no similarities to me but there you go.
The problem with this line is a bewildering array of flankers which, similar to Guerlain if you're not paying attention can be a little alienating. I do try them from time to time but can never remember which one is which. Minor, minor issue because I love the original Elixir and I'm completely smitten with this one!!! It's absolutely BRILLIANT!!! The opening is curious mixture of citrus and fizzy confectionery, like an orange, juicy and real meeting a sharp, pink grapefruit with some powdered refreshers thrown in for good measure, a perfect mix of reality and fantasy. The best thing about this fragrance is the use of an amber accord which is bolstered by gourmand effects, the chunk of patchouli but not as weighed down by it as some compositions, JCE manages to keep it light with top notes which seem to morph into the mid and remain for a while. Mention caramel to me in a fragrance and I can feel my teeth aching and my cloying, gag reflex started to engage at the prospect of smelling bisabolene or ethyl maltol all day, but this is soooooo well done it's smooth balanced perfectly in the way only a master the calibre of Ellena could. It's a bit like Angel but with huge amounts of restraint, and totally different. I find it gorgeous and always have said that Elixir smelled as though it's perfectly unisex but I think this one is a little more feminine. I'm fine with that, I'm wearing the shit out of it today and contemplating a full bottle (finally im going to get something from this line!) L'ambre is a very, very, good wear. I love it!
So when I unfurled my little sweetie wrapped sample and read the description of Shazam! I'd expected something a touch heavier on the amber/cacao side of things. Well no let's backtrack a little. Before I even spritzed it I gave it to my partner to try, she read the description knowing nothing about the brand, Then she said in a challenging tone "hmmmm well we'll see if it smells like Marrakesh shall we?" (She's been to Morocco a few times see) Instantly upon spritzing she was like 'OMG! It does!!!' Needless to say she adores it to the point she wants a bottle right away! but also added that it reminded her of being brutally massaged in a steam room by a 18 stone lady, with arms like an Olympic shot-putter. Which just made me really want to go to Morocco now. Anywho... this is a really lovely and well judged composition from Sarah. I reckon that the general creaminess of the amber accord in here sits right with the incense wood and mildly spiced nature of the top notes and the freshness of that kind of orange opening. Really liked it, update when I've worn it properly.
A little perplexed at where my review of this is? I'm sure I penned one way back when I first tried this but never mind. I can't really add much more than some of the brilliant reviews below, don't take my word for how good Io is, just read theirs. Io is my favourite creation from Chris and I will always associate him with resins and specifically the coulter pine resin that he gathers himself from his home in California. It's very weird smelling stuff, oddly sweet and almost myrrh like toffee and vanilla nuance, but highly medicinal and starkly modern smelling, like scotch tape or brown parcel tape. Not sure if it features heavily in Io but it's laden with resins regardless, translucent, and sepia stained and with a twang which replicates saffron in heat and impact, but not smell. As for the feel... This fragrance depicts an almost post apocalyptic, sci-fi landscape, the Dune novels, Tatooine, Mad Max, or ("get your ass to...") Mars. A barren, parched, place. I can hear sweeping, analogue synth pads and piercing, mock native riddims, or less cerebral and representing Io's rougher side, dusty, southern rock, like Kyuss or Clutch. The dry woodiness supplied by a smokey, lightly peppered, cedar and earthy tones but not bogged down or big smokey OD's. I like Chris's work and he's actually very eclectic despite having quite an uncluttered and minimal aesthetic. I said I feel he has an affinity with wood and earthy materials but that's perhaps because I haven't sampled his more floral offerings. He has control over his materials, unlike some indy perfumes that produce heavy soups & stews, he prefers to let the naturals have a little breathing space within a minimal, synthetic construction, and the mixed media approach is working for him. I think Io is a triumph, shame I didn't put my money where my mouth is now it's all gone. :(
Those who think this is like Salome or Tabu, what brand of crack are you smoking? Even when my fragrance collecting pal shared with me her vintage bottle of Bal a Versailles, as part of my intro to classic perfumery (this one is not even that old in the grand scheme but a classic nonetheless) all those years ago, I don't recall it as being as animal and edgey as the slabs of sex which are Dana Tabu or Liz Moores Salome. In any case I felt I needed to review this as it's one of the many classics I've neglected to pop a review on, because well...there's only so many hours in the day, but a sample of a modern bottle was long over due so here goes. The opening is the swirl of notes you'd expect from chypre citruses, to heady labdanum, peru/tolu cinnamon coke quality this is still a really beautiful, complex scent. It then dries to something resembling a sheer, nightie of an amber. It's basically a tarted up Bain de Caron, with a strange almost rubber, herbal, fougere accord. I bought Cologne Intense from Houbigant recently and that has a similar, furrow or nose dive in it. Almost on the edge of unpleasantness but with a creamy clove note to it also and amber being warmed by spices. I think I've touched on almost every perfume genre there, but that's kinda what Bal a Versailles is, even in it's current incarnation. I have to say that I'm not one to bemoan 'performance' this is a beautiful perfume I enjoy wearing but it's just not as bold as the my recollection of the old bottles, so I'm not in a huge hurry to get it, even though it has a great quality to value ratio. I've not really got a bad thing to say about it.
Finished my bottle of this long ago and was delighted that I took some time out from acquiring new stuff this Christmas and got an old classic. Couldn't be more classic than this. Guy Robert one of my favourite perfumers, my dad wore it yada yada... And not to delve too deep into the composition because to me it's an unassuming powdery, leather scent which in fairness being from 1968 actually predates many of the things you might be able to compare it to, no doubt it supersedes some too. I love the powdered nature of Robert's work with little gems and treats poking out. This has a the mild clove sensation of carnation and while thinking about it a bit longer, Equipage is not a bad comparison, but these are vastly different to those who study the masculine classics and can do a deep dive into what is the same seemingly rehashed accords of leather, wood, musk and herbal elements. The top notes have faded a touch on this vintage but only mildly I still get a citrus, bergamot/lemon but quite muted until it properly builds up and it only takes a minute for the glory to strike. There's a mild greeness too I think there's galbanum in there and a geranium effect created by the powder and also like a version of the peachy chypre notes of Robert's Caleche albeit a much more butch take. It all sits in this lovely leathery range. It's magnificent, starts out great and just gets better, it's not a huge impacting scent or a life changer, but it's a steady pair of hands.
So this one is 'Overtake 320' and at first (despite liking it's themes) I was like ahhhh this is the overly sweet, gourmand, BOMB of the group and it sort of is, but that's not the whole story. The opening is full of that Mugler, caramel sweetness and candy floss I associate with ethyl maltol but here it's not crude, it's actually very carefully done and much better than sickly stuff like Shay & Blue's Salted Caramel for instance. This is because it develops into dry woody accords not dissimilar to the first two of this collection but always gives warm (what is said to be a tonka bean) vibe in this. I suppose it does smell a bit coumarinic and coffee tinged but it doesn't go all vanillin or vanilla heavy or creamy, it maintains distance from it's sweeter potentially cloying elements. It's like one of those 'Sexy' or 'Night' perfumes of the Men's game a few years ago, but less sledgehammer. I say all this having only sprayed it on a test strip, so not the best way to review but I will update if required. Oh don't be fooled by their representation on here (Fragrantica), the bottle shown (gold one) is part of an exclusive special edition version made from a choice of Stainless steel, titanium, and a gold plated ( the one pictured here) three different designs all of which are AMAZING!!! However, they are 3D printed and the technology for metal 3D printing is absolutely cutting edge and as such these incredible flacons cost a whopping $10k each! so unless you have an F1 drivers salary, it's unlikely any mortal 'fraghead' can afford the bloody things. So just to note then that the 'normal' bottles (retail at £195) which are AMAZING too (just not like the pictured one is my point) are also 3D prinnted but from a much more affordable resin material, in a kind of biomech latticework which reminds me of a combination of muscle tissue, HR Geiger artwork or Cronenberg's New flesh, and the roof of that fancy art gallery/museum in Dubai. I want one quite badly they are seriously COOL!!!
