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Fragrance Du Bois Patchouli Argent

Patchouli Argent

Fragrance Du Bois

So. Clearly I did review this back when I received a host of samples from this brand to have a really deep dive and figure out just how much I resented their whole, Middle east meets French, Oud centric, fleece folks, 'borrow' Tom Ford Private blend aesthetic, Swarovski encrusted LUXURY shtick! But I kinda quickly discovered I couldn't. Or perhaps I resented them more because they were just so mellow, easy going and sort of quite faithful to a certain, Frenchness in the main. Most stuff I tried was quite lovely really, without ever standing out or compelling me to own a bottle, this one was so much in that category that I'd forgotten to review it until you lot were lucky enough for me to find a sample vial and pop some on, several years later. Patchouli Argent is a fairly straightforward oud/rose/patchouli affair, it's deeply faceted, well made, quite dark and evolving but it's something else too, it's a bit dull. Sorry but it's true. I like that the rose isn't chintzy or cheap smelling or too bright or fruity, I like that the darkness dominates without murkiness, I like that it's NOT a patchouli dominant fragrance in the true sense (some people have made the comparisons to the dior and TF 'true' patchouli's which I don't get at all but hey) but there's a presence and clever use as a leg in the rose oud tripod and I like the ratios at least. There's some little notes which emerge from nowhere, a sort of musky, sweet sumptuous thing, then a kind of mild floral skank, a little like ambergris, mild saliva on skin effect, either that or I have an infection in my wisdom teeth again? LOL Yeah I dunno, it's fine, it's nice, it's good. There's many many worse in this category and perhaps you can take something from the various dessert trolley of vibes which pop out.

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Tom Ford Noir Extreme

For nearly 200 euros, I'd expect some performance, even just moderate performance, but this is truly non-existant. Several sprays and no scent bubble, no projection, no sillage, nothing. What a con! It's a shame because the fleeting scent is exquisite, but it's gone within 10 minutes maximum.

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Tom Ford Beau de Jour Eau de Parfum

Beau de Jour Eau de Parfum

Strong mosquito repellant... the hardcore stuff that makes your skin sticky with pungent citronella, or is it...? Yes it is, but at the same time, I do find myself going back for more. I don't necessarily dislike the smell of mosquito repellent, but do I want a very expensive perfume that instantly conjures that up? I just can't decide how I feel. Perhaps summer will change my opinion, better still, perhaps this stuff will actually deter mosquitos from feasting on me, in which case I can get on board. The thing is, as it dries down, it becomes clear that there is no citronella, it's probably the combination of geranium and anise (the latter of which is way stronger than I expected, and it's not even listed here) giving me that vibe. It's a complex fragrance, and interesting, I'm just not sure if I can bear it if someone says I smell like bug spray, and it seems inevitable. Following that, the bottle will sit there unused reminding me I spent too much money on it, even though it was discounted. I realise I'm confused. It's a confusing fragrance. Update: After several wears, of course I love it, it's magic! I think this is a thing with Tom Ford perfumes. They're not mass appeal, so it takes consideration to appreciate them. I must say I've yet to find one I didn't love, even if I wouldn't wear them all.

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Tom Ford Ombré Leather (2018)

Ombré Leather (2018)

My experience is that perfumes with amazing performance smell overpowering and often quite rank. Not so with OL EDP. One spray on the neck gives me beautiful, radiant projection, even in terrible weather, without being overbearing. This will last forever. Everyone here is on about new car smell, I don't get that. New car smell is industrial, headache-inducing and plastic, this is floral, delicate and soft.

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Hugo Boss Boss Bottled Parfum

Boss Bottled Parfum

It's Boss The Scent Intense rebottled.

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Mauboussin Mauboussin Elixir Pour Elle

Mauboussin Elixir Pour Elle

To my nose, this is an exact dupe for LVEB L'Absolu! Not the regular LVEB but its flanker. I have tried them both side by side numerous times and we are certain there's absolutely no difference between the two other than sillage, which is massive on L'Absolu. The sillage and longevity are quite good.

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Sarah Baker Perfumes Far From the Madding Crowd

Far From the Madding Crowd

Sarah Baker Perfumes

I can pick out most of the notes here, but the ones I particularly like in no particular order are the cedar, eucalyptus, moss, and castoreum. Oddly, I’m getting a bit of a soapy, cream soda texture overall, which is really quite pleasant. And at points it reminds me of the specific, and somewhat comforting smell you often experience wandering around art gallery gift shops. Don’t ask me why, I couldn’t tell you.

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Diptyque Tam Dao Eau de Toilette

Tam Dao Eau de Toilette

Smells like food. I'm even getting garlic. Very bizarre

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Guerlain Les Absolus d'Orient Oud Essentiel

Les Absolus d'Orient Oud Essentiel

After getting card strips of all the Absolus d'Orient from the Guerlain boutique, I found myself obsessively sniffing the oud essentiel (but not exclusively). So I went back for a sample... I am torn between loving it and feeling like it's impossible to wear. I think I love it. Here's the thing... The opening is a horrible, agressive dusty old church lamp bashing you in the face, but then after about five minutes the rose starts to come through, then the whole thing softens and becomes a beautiful, warm envelope of charming oud and floral notes with a lovely leather spine. I'd say this is old school in terms of strength and performance, i.e. you barely want to spray it on your skin. Instead, spray in front of you and walk naked into the cloud. You don't want to gas everyone around you when in public.

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Zoologist Perfumes Moth

Zoologist Perfumes

So some people are bothered by Zoologists shtick. Apparently according to people who frequent online 'community' stuff they are fanboy/girl/personed about pretty hard as well and clearly they have commercial success because they keep knockin' animals out. I however, am indifferent. I don't really have much of an opinion either way, I see what it is they are trying to do and I've been largely complementary about them when they achieve what I see as the brief and I'm slightly perplexed when they do hit a brief but make an unwearable (in my opinion) perfume. So anyway Moth was sent to me as a kind of 'you probably won't like this but...' sort of a fragrance, but to his and my surprise, I thought it was not only wearable but pretty fantastic to boot! It's largely a big, oldskool feeling castoreum focused perfume, dark, animalic but also quite classical and in the image of a floral chypre but I feel that's a bit of a lazy description too. It has a nocturnal feel perfect for the moth, but the castoreum and all it's savory, meatiness is complimented with a honied floral accord which works a treat. I'm a big fan of Moth, I think it's one of the better ones from the brand and there's been some excellent examples of this kind of faithful, vintage recreation stuff from Beaver to Nightingale. Really good.

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Tabacora Parfums Salim

Tabacora Parfums

This is rose, saffron and oud executed with deft control. Do not expect any big, bombastic accords, this one is gentile and stylish, reserved and muted. Yet still, it’s got enough heft, particularly from the saffron to warrant a steady hand when applying the oil to the pulse points. It’s hugely wearable and totally universal. A big like from me.

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Clive Christian Timeless

Clive Christian

fragrance_weirdo

I’m obsessed with this. I’m not always a huge fan of cologne fragrances but this is incredible. A bright fresh clean top as you’d expect but it manages to smell and feel natural despite enduring forever - as it dries down it becomes a sweet vetiver that just smells great. Very expensive but if money not a concern then buy it. It’s beautiful.

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Guerlain Oud Khôl

Exquisite, expensive and extremely animalic with a kind of sour cheese twist; way too rich and animalic to wear. I can't imagine who would wear this, perhaps some sort of ancient, eminent game of thrones character would smell like this. In fact, the cheesey opening puts me right off, but it does calm down quickly, I just can't imagine purchasing a bottle for the near-on 300 euros it would cost, especially when Guerlain itself offers such an array of affordable, wonderful perfumes. This is for wealthy collectors, probably never to be worn, and hey, why not! Update: I now own this, and I love it. Shameful as it is to say, I've discovered (by accident) that layered with L'Interdit EDP it's a treat! (I know, I know).

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Roja Dove Parfum de La Nuit No 2

Parfum de La Nuit No 2

In all honesty I was a little annoyed by this perfume. The brand and I are very distant due to the prohibitive prices, general fanboyism, the questionable 'perfumer' status of Roge himself....yada yada.... but I put all of that to one side and wallow in the fantastic perfumes that I have enjoyed from the brand over the years, there really is something special about Diaghilev and Enigma, Danger and many others... If mildly derivative they are incredibly well crafted and just lovely things, Pafrum de la nuit 2 doesn't quite cut it for me. I don't dislike it, and I'm often one to say I don't care about the price of the materials going in, it's the art coming out and whether I deem it 'worth' the price, and there's something disjointed about the blend of this perfume. I personally don't like top loaded perfumes, all that wonder and complexity ultimately ebbed away to a lazy base of obvious aroma chemicals, again I'm not calling the use of them, it's essential but when I can perceive masses of fluff (timbersilk/iso e/cedar and amber chemicals etc...) I just get frustrated because someone is paying a retail price of nearly £1000 for something I perceive as crude. It's not their use that annoys me remember, it's the transition of the perfume from everything to nothing which troubles me. Specifically the opening is nice citrus, boozy, rum and a classy labdanum catalyst, which makes you think we might be in for a real treat from Roger here, but again this is not the rich smelling, rum CO2 or whatever (a very expensive material as it goes) of Enigma (the EDP original which is the only RD I own) it's more of a rum n raisin flavouring experience. The booze is deeply seeped into wood, this is a very woody perfume, brutally so. Parfum de la nuit No.2 does have a section of nutmeg and kinda, nutty leather/tobacco which almost evokes Bel ami or Equipage or something Hermes for a moment, and that's good. However, It smells ultimately smells of Iso E Super, Norlimbanol, perhaps some spicy accord of sandalwood materials, it's very dry and not very round or rich. Disappointing I felt, very tenacious but just one dimensional in the base. If this was a designer perfume, hell even if it was an expensive niche I'd say fill your boots for 200 quid. And I know....I know...I've said it before value is in the eye of the beholder and we all know the cost of the materials and the actual perfume are a tiny fraction of the cost, but something about this composition doesn't reassure me that I'm buying a luxurious perfume, and context is everything.

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Guerlain Guerlain Homme L'Eau Boisée

Guerlain Homme L'Eau Boisée

A delicious, zesty, juice-fest with minty geranium. I have the Homme EDP, which is also wonderful, and as others have said, this has the same elements but in a totally contrasting olfactive presentation. The lime is BAM in your face, and makes me want to drink fresh lime juice. The notes that follow develop wonderfully into the dry down. Guerlain always manage to create something unique yet classic and timeless seeming, that makes me go aha yes! This is no exception. Update: I've had this a couple of years now, and the woods have become dominant. There's a suggestion of many different wood notes without any one type standing out, which I love about it. It's like standing in a woodwork shop or a very posh soap shop where everything is nestled in wood shavings in baskets. It feels piney due to the minty geranium. Love it.

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Rabanne Sport de Paco Rabanne

Sport de Paco Rabanne

Wow! I bought some vintage perfume from etsy or ebay or something and the seller kindly included some unexpected, masculine gems at this was among them. The samples are 80's but clearly impeccably well kept because the top notes and everything smell intact. What a scent as well! I like to think I know all these and can recall them in great detail but truth is even the ones I wore (or my Dad did) are faded memories or rose tinted, pedestal stuff of legend, which they probably weren't. I don't recall this sport ever being something I'd tried, the original of course is a classic but this one not as well known, but it's a cracker! It's much fresher and more 'sport' accent the soapiness, without the piney aspect, it's spicy, earthy mossy drydown is of the era, Sport is great and that seller is a massive enabler (probably seeding people with samples because he has a glut of PR Sport bottles to shift) because I may seek out a bottle of this. There's me thinking I was done with vintage BS'ery.

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Navitus Parfums Sartorial Nuit

Navitus Parfums

Great Tonka Bean bomb with 0 performance

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Guerlain L'Homme Idéal Extrême

L'Homme Idéal Extrême

This is an exquisite fragrance, leather daddy in a bottle, and I don't mean that in a fetish way, I mean like your dad in a fine leather jacket back when you were young, or at least some way more stylish version thereof. This must be what Burt Reynolds smells of. It's not macho though, just classic suave moustachio'd charm. I feel too young to be wearing it (I'm 42).

This and Blossom Love by Amouage have a surprising amount I common. I think it's the heliotrope overdose, smell them together, it's crazy.

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Ganache Parfums One Legged Joe

Ganache Parfums

Mate of mine sent me this and I'm not going to lie I wasn't expecting to like it as much as I did. Okay, not that I'm the arbiter of good taste in perfumery or anything (I fuckin' am!) but I don't really class these overt, 'Hey wanna smell like cake?' gourmands as 'real perfume' yeah call me a snob if you like. All that aside I can assess One legged Joe on it's merits, it hits the brief, although too sweet for most if you're a glutton for this shit or have a great big, gurgling, inner child within you (in my case) which demands satisfaction, you'll take something from this. I know what this reminds me of, it's like trash coffee, specifically a Tim Horton's French vanilla latte, which is stupidly sweet and tastes as if Dominican vanilla gummed cigarillos and coca butter magic trees have been repeated dipped into your coffee. Trash and yet I still drink them. Then you get the butter materials/accord which is usually sent to ruin most Indy's compositions but here it's quite restrained and not too sickly, perhaps because it's surrounded by lots of other massively sweet and icky materials. The bitterness of the coffee note/accord is really well done, lasts, actually smells like coffee and serves to offer something mildly less saccharine than everything else in here. Still this is almost unwearable, simply because I don't care to smell like this, and it's not really what excites me about perfumery but hey that's just me. I accept that gourmand lovers, (the fanatical cat ladies of the fragrance community) will probably love this as it stands out in the field because clearly the perfumer has a affinity with these materials and can be super creative in the gourmand space.

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Grossmith Diamond Jubilee Bouquet

Diamond Jubilee Bouquet

Diamond jubilee bouquet is a gorgeous, a fresh floral accord atop a classy, naturalistic, creamy and rounded iris/orris powder, shocked with mild greens and purples. I say 'natural' because it doesn't seem to break up into sweet carrot slop or individual papery ionones, nor is it complete powdery, parma violets affair, it's strikes a lovely balance, as does everything Grossmith have put in a bottle to my recollection. It's a little timid in terms of lasting power and impact and perceived value, especially at these prices, but hey let's not crucify it for that, thank goodness Grossmith haven't resorted to keeping up with trends or making big noxious bombs, attempting to be the next big thing in luxury perfume, especially surprising as they strive to make it in the middle eastern market. A fine perfume then, the opening few minutes is nothing short of magic and is worth wearing for that alone, but compared with the other excellent offerings from this house it ranks somewhat lower.

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Hermès H24 Eau de Parfum

H24 Eau de Parfum

If it were possible for bananas to be both synthetic and slightly mouldy, and then those synthetic mouldy bananas were left in a mossy forest for a day or two, this is what it would smell like.

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Giorgio Armani Emporio Armani Stronger With You Oud

Emporio Armani Stronger With You Oud

Smells exactly like Issey Ambre.

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Giorgio Armani Emporio Armani Stronger With You Leather

Emporio Armani Stronger With You Leather

Had it. Sold it. Don't waste your money. Smells no different to the other flankers. The oud version is the only one that smells different.

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Guerlain Habit Rouge Eau de Toilette

Habit Rouge Eau de Toilette

Whereas the EDP is an exquisite perfume, whilst being very similar the EDT crosses the line into smelling like incense. This increases over the first hour resulting in pot pourri. Not a fan. Update: After wearing this a couple more days, I feel I was harsh, as it is a lovely fragrance, and expertly blended. However it does whisk me to a spooky knick-knack shop, try as I might to rid my mind of this idea. Strangley the EDP doesn't do this despite having the same list of notes. I think I will enjoy this on my bedding and dressing gown in the evenings, as it's a step too far for me to use out and about. Another update: OK I take it all back, I'm in love now. It's such a joyous fresh, sparkly burst, and the dry down becomes more and more delicious. My only gripe now is that it doesn't last very long... Another another update : Just wear Shalimar EDP for the best part of Habit Rouge.

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