Charade took me by surprise, as I was testing my way through the Sarah Baker range for the first time in Jovoy. It captured my heart in an instant, and within that moment I knew I had to buy a sample at the very least, to fully explore and appreciate this masterful scent. Since then, it currently sits right at the top of my wishlist and is easily my favourite from the house. This is a powerful tuberose scent, but not as you might know. The sweet, fruity facets of this wonderful flower are heightened by the deliciousness of honey, resting on a buttery smooth base of warm amber, and a creamy marriage of ylang, sandalwood and oakmoss. However, leather is what makes this scent what it is. It gives it a somewhat rugged thickness preventing the tuberose from becoming too soapy or bubblegum-like. I can honestly say I think this is an utter masterpiece. Tuberose and leather is a pairing which can smell out of this world if done correctly, and here it is perfect. This scent made me realise tuberose is one of my favourite notes if done correctly.
This perfume if freaking FUN. After wearing it for a day at work I think I can say it smells best on skin. On my sweater while in a walk in cooler, the lavender came through and it sat down and folded its hands politely. On skin in the heat, it smells like a fun sunny day at a family picnic horsing around outside with your cousins, brothers, dad, and uncles. It smells like celebration. It’s confident and likable. On skin it’s like warm rich honey’d pipe tobacco, a little incense, pineapple, smoke, soft clean lavender and sun. I freaking love this. I got a (newer) vintage bottle with the actual grey glass (not the painted grey glass). I don’t get animalic or pissy notes. I also don’t consider this to be a nuclear room filler, or a beast mode whatever. It’s absolutely worth a blind buy, especially if you are exploring the world of fragrance, and can appreciate different scents from different eras. This is so distinct and unique. It changes a lot too throughout its life. It’s got character and is totally original. Nothing like this is being sold today, and that makes it all the more special. Absolute 10/10 Update: It’s probably in my top three or four faves of all time. I bought a backup bottle and I never want to be without it. It’s pretty addictive. My mother in law gave me a hug and turned to my wife and said “You let him wear this to work?!?” I think it’s a banger, but I 100% wear it for myself and I don’t get any compliments on it. Miles ahead of crap like YSL Y, JPG Le Beau, MYSLF, and Burberry Hero Parfum, and basically any vague safe boring mall frag with no personality that costs way too much. Two sprays under the shirt on the bare chest and I dab my wrist on the freshly sprayed area. Update: I did yard work while wearing it a couple times and kind of regretted it. It can get a little too powdery for me at times.
Unspoken Musk is inspired by the idea of natural animal musks which have had humans in a chokehold since the dawn of ancient perfumery, but does not aim to accurately replicate the scent of natural musk. Instead, it embodies the idea of what musk is and the imaginative suggestions it may bring to one’s mind. The overall scent is quite bright surprisingly, with a refreshing hesperidic facet coming from bergamot, complimented by aromatic clean florals such as Imortelle, magnolia and orris. The musk comes in the form of clean, synthetic musks primarily, backed up by a strong whisper of castoreum and civet to give it some edge. All of which rests on a soft, sweet and creamy base of sandalwood, tonka and vanilla - pairing with human skin perfectly. In the beginning, the combination of the clean freshness with the animal notes comes across as what can only be described as a urinal cake. Thankfully, this is short lived and soon the slightly urinous aspect of the civet leans into the sweetness of the base much better. This is definitely one you cannot judge fairly from a strip, it has to be given a chance to take you on it’s full journey.
Byzantine Amber remedies everything that is wrong with Amber fragrances these days. The scent is inspired by the gleaming gold and luminous splendour of the Byzantine civilisation, bringing to life the idea of theatrical luxury accompanied by a dark and mysterious personality hidden beneath. It opens with geranium, highlighting all of its beautiful pulpy, rosy and slightly spicy elements which are furthered by a hefty dose of alluring cinnamon. However, this fragrance is dry - very dry, through the inclusion of frankincense, styrax and ambergris giving it a slightly smoky, animal feel. Above all, sits what seems to be a classical Amber accord, but missing one of its key components: vanilla. The exclusion of vanilla prevents this scent from becoming overly sweet, instead leaning into its dark, dry and spicy facets. This is one of my absolute favourite amber fragrances on the market. If you’re tired of the overly sweet, almost gourmand vanillic ambers currently swarming the market then this is the answer. It reminds me of other beautiful dark ambers such as Amber Absolute and Parfum De La Nuit 1; this is obviously far more affordable but no less glorious. A truly masterful rendition of amber.
“A secret encounter of lovers, tightly bound by an impossible passion.” The Lover’s Tale is a romance of a by-gone era, a secret encounter between two lovers at a time when scandal could bring social ruin to your family. It walks the edge between refined and perverse, sophisticated and lustrous. A sweet, powdery marriage of countless florals makes up the bulk of this scent; jasmine, rose and heliotrope, with Bianchi’s signature use of leather and orris following closely behind giving the scent even more thickness. A touch of peach and a whisper of castoreum interpret the contrast between sweet innocence, and filthy desires. It smells like a close encounter between two esteemed members of society who are already betrothed to someone else. I absolutely love it, words cannot describe how much I love it. This scent fits my tastes perfectly - a dense, leathery Chypre with an overdose of vintage-style florals and woods. This is easily my favourite creation I’ve tried from Francesca Bianchi, I would even consider calling this a masterpiece.
Tyger Tyger imitates the powerful contraposition between a highly sophisticated and refined civilisation managing to survive in a dark and fearful post-apocalyptic world. The juxtaposition between light and dark in this scent is gorgeously thought provoking, and leaves you questioning which side of yourself you want to indulge today. A delectable sweetness dominates here, but not in a typical gourmand fashion. Indolic white flowers, namely tuberose, provide an essence of innocent sweet fruitiness which is then elevated by the indulgence of sticky honeyed peaches. To contrast, a dark and mysterious base of thick leather and patchouli pull you in deeper. Surprisingly, there is no orris listed here which is unusual for Bianchi, however the powdery and creamy facets of sandalwood, oakmoss and heliotrope more than make up for it. I can see why this is one of the more popular fragrances from this house, it is absolutely beautiful. Bianchi’s true talent is best demonstrated when it comes to combining such conflicting notes together and have it somehow come out smelling smooth and rounded. Definitely among my favourites.
After my initial disappointment I can make the better review of this scent. I forget all my expectations and I'm able to see the beauty of this scent. They have made a note list which looks absolutely stunning and tempting. You can find there may trending notes like Cherry, Raspberry, Almond and Nutmeg like of course Cognac and Oud as well. They are tempting here, that is not any problem but the whole blend is just absolutely nothing which people are thinking it would be. Sad to say but the initial opening is terrible and very dry and it made me scrub the scent of many times before writing a statement and now this one. How the opening should be, starts after 5-10 minutes after spraying the scent. Cherry and Raspberry are detectable like cognac as well but the latter one disappears very quickly which is a good thing here - that note is not "delicious", realistic boozy note. It's more like the dusty scent of the cognac barrel. Cherry and raspberry are beautifully made. The problem again are the expectations. I'm waiting the different stages of the scent. I'm waiting that the scent develops how the complex scent would do. Of course I'm waiting a lot of Cherry as well because of the name and my initial opinion was like "boring Cherry" because in the end, this is not a Cherry scent even if it's lurking in the background . I was waiting a lot from this scent after "Oud 31 | Kai Porten Parfums Privés" and therefore I was thinking this scent would be complex and challenging, in a good way. On the other hand I could think that all the notes are blended so well that it's not easy (or it's impossible) to smell them separately. But it's not the case here. I mean it is well blended but it seems that many notes are really missing totally. The scent itself smells to me like the mix of Raspberry, Bitter Almond, Nutmeg, Rose, Musk, Vanilla, Sandalwood and a very little hint of Oud which is definitely a sophisticated Western style Oud. And I think that many who have been trying Cherry X or who are interested in that are not the people who are familiar with Guerlain's L'Art et la Matiere Collection. So guess what? Those notes are the ones which you can find in "Oud Nude | Guerlain" . The huge surprise is that Cherry X share so much with Oud Nude which is utterly sophisticated, classy, subtle and everything which people don't expect from Cherry X. This scent is like a sibling of Oud Nude. Delicious soft, creamy blend which works best on a naked skin under a luxurious cashmere cardigan. In the dry down it start to go into a little bit different direction and that deliciousness start to fade away and Cherry is stepping back to the stage but it's darker now. The base start to be more resinous as well. So the scent is not a bad one but the target group is totally wrong. They are waiting Oud scent not this kind of linear, subtle and sensual scent which stays quite close to the skin. The scent gets bad ratings because totally wrong people are trying this scent. So if i would rate this based on my expectations I would give low scores but if I rate it without thinking the brand, the name and my expectations I would give higher scores. Which way would be best for people who are curious about Cherry X? I think there is not a right answer. I just hope that the right people find this scent, those ones for example who didn't like Oud 31 at all. As a conclusion I want to say that this scent is very well made and blended. It's just something totally different than you are searching. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
Mix grey vetiver with molecule and you have this. Like Another 13 with soapy vetiver.
Rose + toilet cleaner
This is beautiful. A fruity opening mellows down into toasty coconut, moss and tobacco, over a leathery amber base.
Второй день ношу и уже влюбился в него. Старт яркий, цитрусовый, ощущается как будто цукаты, очень отчетливо слышу именно кумкват. После цитрусовый аккорд немного стихает, появляется легкая цветочность и мягкость сандала. Согласен с предыдущими отзывами, что прослеживается почерк в сторону дорогого уходового средства. Как по мне это даже плюс, это и придает ему особенность звучания.
Midlife crisis in a bottle. “Hey mister, what cologne is that?” “Uhhh…it’s a Carolina Herrera fragrance.” “What’s it called?” looks around……………………………… “bad…….boy”.
Long lasting? Check. Get’s picked up on by those around you? Check. Smells nice? Check. Projection? check. For a man my age? Ehhh. Probably better suited for 16-25.
Not a bad perfume, but not at all indicative of my personality, or the vibe I want to put out in the world. To me it smells like an older man’s choice who is trying to get the club girls to notice him. It’s well made, but I don’t think it has a personality. Looking for compliments? I wouldn’t know, I washed it off when I got home. I will say this. Listening to the Jeremy Fragrances of the community, and searching for fragrances to be used as tools to seduce women, is not only cringey, it will leave you unhappy. Wearing something that is popular, but doesn’t reflect your unique personality, is a recipe for disappointment. You never want to wear something you don’t like all day. It may project, the sillage may be great, blah blah blah, but if you don’t feel comfortable or confident already, it won’t do for you what you think it will. If the person you’re trying to attract loves it, then it’s even worse. Then you’re stuck with it, and you are forced to keep wearing it. Like a guy wearing ripped jeggings who has a dad bod. Be yourself. PS. Don’t smell this on an empty stomach. It won’t make you hungry, it’ll make you feel sick.
Fake oud, overblown money grab, smells like synethic oud and cheesey aldehydes. For a better execution of the same idea see Oud Extravagant by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, which is also slightly less extortionate in price. This is a nasty, stinky perfume I had to scrub off.. There are better fake ouds out there for 200 times cheaper.
For me, it’s a little too modern and doesn’t blaze any new trails. Not to say it is bad in any way, just not for the adventurous enthusiast of perfumery. Sits pretty close to the skin, but it lasts a long time. Well blended and will probably garner compliments…for the person I sell it to. I’d suggest it for anyone between 16-35.
Sex and the Sea Neroli is currently the only ‘flanker’ from Francesca Bianchi, but it’s a glorious one at that. It’s very much got a similar scent profile to the original, with its sultry combination of tropical fruits, sweaty skin and a salty sea spray, but this time feels much brighter, sunnier and with a bit more innocence. In my mind, Sex on the Sea is very much what it describes in the name - a hot, sweaty sexual encounter on the beach. The Neroli rendition, to me, feels like the same encounter but in the moments leading up to it, when you’re still clothed, feeling fresh with the soft scent of clean linen and your white floral perfume filling the air around you - before things get dirty. It smells absolutely delightful, but I question whether it’s necessary to own both. Personally I much prefer the original as I love that sensual, dirty feel lingering in the background but this version is much easier to wear and far more palatable. I’ll probably end up buying both I imagine, this DNA is one of my favourites for the summer.
Etruscan Water takes inspiration partly from citric moss-heavy colognes from the golden age of men’s perfumery, but also Bianchi’s personal memories of an Italian summer growing up in the South of Tuscany. It’s a scent which whisks you away to a place free of worry and doubt, and as someone who has spent many summers in the Mediterranean, feels very special to me. Bianchi describes a brief walk through the woods to get to a small cove beach, with the overwhelming smell of dry Mediterranean vegetation reacting with the heat - this is not a smell you can describe, but only experience for yourself, however Bianchi has recreated it beautifully here. An array of invigorating citrus fruits and ambergris represent the subtle salty spray of the sea soothing your sun-kissed skin. All this rests on a beautiful base of leathery labdanum and a hefty dose of oakmoss. This scent is absolutely sublime, a significant step away from Bianchi’s usual dark, heavy and erotic fragrances and yet, it’s one of my absolute favourites. I would even go as far to say it’s an absolute masterpiece, perfectly recreating such a special memory which many of us in Europe can link to a specific time and place in our memories.
The Black Knight envisions a setting surrounding an Italian mercenary captain of the Medici family during the Renaissance, picturing his military camp in the low light of the evening, pondering about what the day ahead might bring - death or glory? At the centre of the composition is leather, complimented of course by a dense powdery orris and oakmoss which represents the dusty thick smells of of leather horse tacks. To contrast, patchouli, cedarwood and Vetiver take shape to give the impression of a gently burning campfire nearby, without being overtly smoky or off-putting. Finally, a subtle honeyed sweetness of nearby shrubs, emanating their aromatic glory in the humidity of an Italian night. All of this combined creates the most serene picture, yet the vulnerability of the night comes out with a hefty dose of cumin. It’s utterly glorious, one of the bolder leather scents Francesca has made. It took some time for me to form a proper relationship with this scent but the imagery was there right from the initial spray - this scent really takes you on a journey and it’s done to perfection.
Under My Skin is Francesca’s interpretation of the animalic theme, but surprisingly doesn’t seem to be her most animalic fragrance to my nose; however, the name gives reference to the idea that it it’s core, this scent is still something more subtly human than overtly animal. And what a beauty it is. To me this feels like an almost oriental leather scent - as is very common with Bianchi’s work, leather and orris are at the forefront of the composition, at a dosage of 15% irone which provides this overwhelmingly dry, buttery, powdery and slightly earthy effect to the leather which in turn is thickened heavily by a pairing of tolu and Peru balsams. Musk, castoreum and ambergris form a perfectly musky trio, but not to the point that it is impolite, as it is perfectly balanced by the spices and lavender. This is a bold scent, it exudes power and confidence, it doesn’t feel quite as intimate or sensual as some of her other work but in a way it’s refreshing in that sense. I absolutely love this fragrance, the combination of powdery leather and spices is done to perfection.
Фантастический аромат. Меня как будто окунули головой в сочные цветочные стебли. На старте такой свежий аккорд зеленых нот, который потом стихает и появляется нежная, тубероза со стеблями. Он такой интеллигентный, близко сидящий, очень доволен приобретением.
Let me start by saying my nose is so unsophisticated you should stop reading now. That said I am wearing Absolue De Mousse for the first time right now. The initial spray had me regretting my purchase and really my spraying it on my arm. To me the first thing I smell is the scent of orange blossom perfume sold in old Florida citrus stands and tourist stops. This is not the scent of real orange blossoms in the air (driving through a blooming orange grove at night is one of the most magical smells you can experience), it is the orange blossom and soap maybe with rose smell of these inexpensive perfumes. To me always kind of old lady. Thankfully this was gone in about five minutes and slowly so was the soapiness. Again I don't know what I am talking about but the slightly and I mean slightly floral and very green resinous with a hint of leather this settles into around the thirty minute mark is totally different than anything I have smelled in the last twenty five years. To me it almost has a pine sent to it or at least the same type of dry down that is in the family of the original Polo. Yes, I am old enough to have worn that back in the 80's and I almost exclusively did! It is not a copy of it but again the green, resinous and slight hint of leather speaks out to me in the same way. This stuff is powerful too. I sprayed a little on the inside of an elbow and then on the opposite wrist . . . when I realized how the dry down was going I sprayed once on my chest. I have no idea the sillage or projection but it is all I can smell over an hour maybe two hours later. Glorious! I can't wait to see how long this goes . . . and more importantly I hope my wife will enjoy it (or at least not object to it).
If you are used to very synthetic scents and it's not the problem for you, you may like this one. I don't think it's just one note which ruins the whole composition but it's the way how all the notes has been made. I just don't get anything natural here and heavy Ambroxan doesn't help at all. You don't find here edible and intoxicating marshmallow. I love that note when it's done well. Saffron is there and this is definitely not like "Baccarat Rouge 540" but I think it came to my mind especially during the first testing because of Saffron and how it's made here - I don't like that scent at all either. That feeling anyway disappears totally when testing again after one day. Vanilla Orchid, Vanilla and Jasmine together smell cloying to me. I can't say that this is creamy. The aroma is unpleasant, suffocating and headache inducing. There are so beautiful floral notes mentioned but none of them smell beautiful and not at all how they smell when natural ingredients are used. The longevity and sillage are very strong, too strong with this kind of scent but on the other hand it's like that because of synthetics. I feel somewhat quilty to write this kind of review but this is how I feel. I haven't tried so many from this house but I haven't found any which I like so if you like this house in overall, you may like this one. Some scent comes into my mind after around 1 hour from the opening. I'm smelling my wrist like crazy (even if I get a headache) because this is so familiar but I can't remember what it is. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
The most floral thing I’ve smelled yet in the Penguin line. Smells to me like Cerruti 1881 with the harsher woody/juniper qualities shaved off the corners. Inexpensive enough to buy a bottle if you like masculine florals. Doesn’t smell like a ton of stuff out there. Cool bottle, versatile, decent juice, good longevity, survived the shower. It can get a little cloying if oversprayed. Two does the trick.
