Angel’s Dust is a rather pleasant and joyful vintage-style scent, inspired by the imagery of a dusty boudoir of bygone times. To me, a description of that sort connotes an element of filth, sex and lust, which certainly seems to be lacking here unfortunately which is unusual for Bianchi. You definitely pick up the vintage feel of face powder and rose, which I must admit is lovely. Bianchi’s signature use of orris is of course stunning, but I feel like something is missing here. The musk and tolu balsam listed seem to be all but absent, stripping away any lustrous aspect you might hope for; it smells lovely, but lacks a certain depth and allure. Of course it smells lovely, and I very much enjoy wearing my sample, but Bianchi has a number of other orris-centric fragrances which provide far more depth and character. This is definitely one of the more wearable and palatable perfumes from the house.
Terrible fragrance, literally last 2 minutes, very disappointing
Centaurus is the latest money-grab from Creed, hopping upon the recent sweet ambery bandwagon. Admittedly, it does smell nice, but it’s nothing particularly special, creative or interesting. Vanilla, benzoin and tonka take centre stage, dominating with their sweet, creamy facets among a spicy cinnamon and dry tobacco. The warmth of cardamom lingers in the air which gives the scent a sort of airy, buttery smoothness to it. A creamy pair of sandalwood and almond-like heliotrope amplify this dramatically, all whilst maintaining a soft, gentle sweetness throughout. As I said, it does smell good - I don’t think anyone can deny that. Unfortunately it just isn’t exciting enough to warrant such an expensive price tag, it feels very much like something I’ve smelled before; it’s very familiar. Overall, less than impressed.
The Dark Side is a scent which evokes a distant memory of covered spice markets and a bustling nightlife, as it is inspired by the city of Marrakesh. It’s an oriental, but not as you know it - the scent is an intensely rich and complex display of rare and exotic smells, enough to transport you completely to another world. The base of this perfume is made up of a traditional Amber accord, with its sweet resinous facets amplified by the inclusion of chewy styrax, as well as soft woods. Overlaying this, is a rich darkness of dry incense and earthy patchouli, casting a shadow over the sweetness to pull you further into the night. Above all, you’re blasted by an intense concoction of honeyed spices - the warmth of this deliciously aromatic sweetness is incredibly captivating, I could spend hours trying to describe it. I’ll be honest, I wasn’t a fan of this fragrance initially. I didn’t think it smelled bad, I just dismissed it early on, assuming I knew the depth of its allure and composition. The more I test it the more I realise I was wrong, and at this point realise I actually rather love it. To me, this is a scent you have to spend time with and really form a relationship with.
The Mariner’s Rhyme is perhaps the fragrance which detaches most from Francesca’s usual signature style, yet still retains her enigmatic charm deep within. This is an intensely marine and aquatic scent, with so much depth it feels like staring into the bottomless abyss of the ocean. Ambergris dominates, this provides the bulk of its characteristic salty and marine feel, elevated by the ozonic notes listed. Grapefruit lifts this into the sky with its bright and juicy facets, reminiscent of how the sun sparkles against the rushing waves of the sea. As it develops, the scent is then grounded and pulled back in by the dense thickness of orris, oakmoss and incense which perpetuates the idea of the dark ocean depths. It’s a fantastic creation. If you’re a lover of marine and aquatic fragrances this is a must try in my opinion. I’m conflicted whether or not I want a bottle as it’s not my usual style at all, and yet something keeps pulling me in. I imagine I’ll cave at some point and buy a 30ml.
Luxe Calme Volupte is inspired by a painting by Henri Matisse of the same name, conveying the idea of longing for a place of sensuous calmness and offering a suspension from human angst. It’s a beautifully balanced rendition of a green, aromatic floral, with the warmth of resins at its core. Galbanum is the primary note to my nose, which creates this intensely green and vegetal feel, whilst also remaining dry and slightly earthy. The bitterness of this gorgeous note is elevated by a bitter orange, alongside vetiver and soft woods. The balance comes from an array of gentle, powdered florals as is always Francesca’s style, backed up by an array of vaguely tropical fruits which gives the scent a much needed boost of sweetness. It’s hard to say how this scent makes me feel, as it does not remind me of a specific place or emotion. Instead it feels like purgatory, as though you are suspended between both your dreams and your fears; ethereal calm surrounds you and offers an escape from the mundane. Utterly beautiful.
Sex and the Sea epitomises exactly what it describes; it aims to implant in your mind the idea of not only the soft, salty warmth of your skin after a dip in the sea, but the sweaty, sticky nature of a sexual encounter on the beach. It’s absolutely stunning, and brings this idea to life perfectly. Most prominent to my nose, is a cocktail of various tropical fruits giving the scent an almost gourmand quality - pineapple and coconut combine with gentle florals of mimosa and Imortelle here. Obviously, there is a hefty dose of ambergris which provides that intensely salty facet, amplified by a whisper of filth from civet. All of this rests on a soft, sweet skin-like feel which can only be resonating from a subtle sandalwood and Amber accord. It’s absolutely brilliant. I couldn’t think of a better name to encapsulate a scent which smells like a hot sweaty sexual adventure by the sea - the salty spray of the water combined with the filth of our primal desires is daring, but ensnaring. I love it.
Screaming, LOUD calone with the usual blue notes. If you like calone, this is OK, but I find it nauseating. I'll stick to my vintage Cool Water.
When I wear a very modern take on men's classic fragrances like this, I just wish I'd put on a vintage instead. This could never even come close, as it has all the elements required except the most important, namely real oakmoss.
I have recently come to discover that I adore tuberose, if it’s done well. Usually the tuberose fragrances I love are eye-wateringly expensive with a strong presence of filth and sex - but Giorgio doesn’t fit into that category at all, and I still love it. It pushes the boundaries of what’s tolerable in society, and I relish the challenge. The tuberose is front and centre, and whilst intensely soapy and slightly bubblegummy, I don’t find it to be sickening as others might. Joined by an array of white florals, namely jasmine, alongside hints of fruits and soft woods, you’re left with what can only be described as a tuberose bomb. It’s intensely powerful. I imagine it’s not quite as strong as it was upon first release, as legend goes this was the only fragrance to be banned from restaurants worldwide due to is obnoxious strength. It’s easily tolerable these days. It doesn’t fit into my usual style at all and yet I do love it, I just can’t explain why.
I never got to smell the original Je Reviens, but the current Couture version is absolutely beautiful nonetheless - it contains everything you’d want from an old school floral, whilst making it easily wearable today. There’s a contrast of flowers here; on the one hand you’ve got the beautifully delicate harmony of jasmine and orange blossom, with their bright, soapy facets amplified by a generous dose of aldehydes. To contrast this, a trio of jonquil, narcissus and ylang combine to create the most addictive buttery smooth base you can imagine, allowing the brighter white florals to glide through the air with unspeakable grace. I love this scent, I only discovered it in recent months but already it’s a firm favourite and it makes me even more keen to smell the original. If you love vintage-style florals then you simply cannot go wrong with this, especially for the price.
Absolue de Mousse is the latest release from Rogue, and it’s yet another banger. To me this scent combines an intensely sharp, aromatic fougere character with a darker, warmer fresh spicy feel. There’s a lot going on which makes it hard to pick out what you’re actually smelling. Most obvious to my nose, is the fresh spicy facet - artemisia and sage bring out this almost sour bitterness which is thankfully tempered and softened by creamy mosses. The then spicy side of this development is brought on by a hefty dose of nutmeg which typically should be warming but definitely feels as though it’s been freshened up by everything else. In the base, myrrh, frankincense and labdanum make for a thick chewiness which gives it that punch. Overall, I think it’s fantastic. It’s got all the character of Rogue Perfumery and simply oozes contemporary creativity. It’s not the usual sort of scent profile I’d wear, but despite that I want a bottle - it’s a truly unique and wonderful release.
Jardin Nocturne was my first encounter with the house of Shalini and I was seriously impressed, in fact ‘blown away’ does not even do it justice. This is truly one of the most magical and intoxicating perfumes I’ve ever smelled; it goes far beyond just a want at this point, I need this scent. The composition shows Maurice Roucel at his absolute best, demonstrating how simplicity does not have to smell simple, and that quality rules above complexity. Jasmine is the main player here, one of the best Jasmine absolutes I’ve ever encountered, contrasted by the thick, slightly fecal and dense nature of pure Assam oud. A sweet whisper of saffron helps to balance this out, as it all rests on an ethereal, creamy base of sandalwood and musks, but overall it’s all about the jasmine and the oud. I adore this perfume. It is class and elegance of the highest level, transporting you to a place where all your worries simply evaporate. The confidence that comes with wearing Jardin Nocturne is second to none, I truly believe this is one of the greatest fragrances of the last decade.
To me it smells of Parma Violets or violets flavoured hard candy. Lovely and powdery if you like this sort of scent. Very light and airy in the beginning then become more grassy and vegetation/herby like midway through.
I had a bottle of this when Ineke first released it. I wanted something niche I was wearing a suit everyday and wanted something that fit that vibe. It was the mid 2000's and aquatic scents were everywhere. I found Derring-Do to be perfect for spring and summer in Florida's humid heat. I did not get the cool water feeling of it as it was much lighter and more sophisticated to my nose not to mention it just did not smell like cool water. It was a fresh water aquatic (no salt at all) and the floral from I guess the cyclamen and magnolia floated over some very light woods. Fresh, nice in the humid heat and unobtrusive in the office. I never replaced my bottle as I just wasn't that into aquatic scents but if I was wanting something light and fresh for spring this would not be a bad choice.
A little spice, a little smoke, a HECK OF A LOT OF CEDAR! My wife brought this home for me from a closeout at a grocery store or something saying she smelled it in the store an liked it (maybe $30 USD at the time). I sprayed it on a was instantly in love and we went back to see if they had anymore. Unfortunately they did not. Well I used the bottle up until it was bone dry thinking I would find another somewhere and by the time I did it was already going for over $100. Now it is astronomical if you can find it. Was it a great cedar? Yes, one of the best I have smelt. Is it worth hundreds of dollars? Nope, not to me. Enjoyed, loved, remembered, but there are to many great scents to try and replace it with another bottle.
My bottle is an older version of the aftershave for men. Right away you know as an aftershave it will not have even the strength of the EDT/EDP, however, what it did have is one of the best citrus moments of my life. Lemon, citron, even a little orange, simply stunning realistic citrus. Was it gone in less than thirty minutes, yes, but who cares it was beautiful. Sometime after I got this bottle I quit shaving and grew a beard . . . that was well over a decade ago. I kept this bottle in a dark cabinet (air conditioned all the time). I recently went back to just sample the citrus (having rediscovered my love for fragrances) and to my disappointment they were gone. A citrus that magical probably just doesn't age well regardless the way it was stored but wow, when it was fresh, what a stunner.
Dunhill Indian Sandalwood is quite the beautiful fragrance even if it is not made with real sandalwood. Just so creamy and warm with a what I consider a masculine and professional scent. I love the smell of this and the feel in the morning when I put it on prior to dressing for work. That said, I do not love how weak the longevity is. I wear it to the office, I don't need to project much more than the few feet around me and really don't want great sillage either. No worries as the projection is minimum for the time I spray it on for maybe the first hour and the their isn't any sillage to worry about. But my biggest gripe is that this is gone in three to maybe three and a half hours after spraying it. I am being generous with that time period too. Additionally, that is with around ten good sprays. So in short, lovely scent with horrible longevity. Can't be that upset with this blind buy as it was only $53. I will search on for a sandalwood with staying power.
Smells like my dad in the 80s, instant nostalgia. I got a free vintage mini of this with an order, I'm blown away!
Smoked, burnt rubber. Possibly the most traditionally masculine smelling perfume I've ever smelled. This is what Tom of Finland by ELDO should have smelled like.
CK One is the icon of the 90s, one of the most recognisable and well-known fragrances of recent decades; a scent doesn’t gain that sort of reputation for no reason. This is a fragrance I had always avoided, assuming it would be disappointing as all modern CK fragrances are - damn was I wrong. A bright, zingy symphony of juicy lemons and other citrus fruits dominate the senses, tempered by a powerful green presence. It’s one of those smells that’s so difficult to describe what you’re smelling, as it can only be described as the scent of CK One - that is where Alberto Morillas’ genius shines. I hate to say it, but I love this fragrance. I never thought I would say that about a Calvin Klein perfume, but I’ve found myself reaching for this more often than I care to admit. It’s such an easy wear and satisfies the senses every time I smell it; there’s something about it that just pulls you back in every single time. A true icon in modern perfumery.
Giorgio for Men is one of those fragrances you buy because it seems impossibly cheap, only to astound you with how incredible it is when it does arrive. After the success of the original Giorgio, there was a lot of pressure when it came to releasing a masculine counterpart - but I think they passed with flying colours. This fragrance crosses the bridge between a traditional mossy Chypre, and a typical barbershop-style fougere which were gaining popularity quickly. On one side you’ve got the rich, earthy presence of patchouli, oakmoss and soft woods, which rests on a gentle Amber base supporting a grand central theme of honeyed carnation and rose. The end result is phenomenal. Considering I picked up this 118ml bottle for just £10, I can’t believe how good it is. The value for money is unbelievable and I truly think this is a must have for any man - it’s got endless class, sophistication and traditionalism for such a low price.
Zombie for Him - does perfume marketed to smell like a zombie necessarily need to be gendered? Nevertheless, I think this fragrance fills its brief to the letter, whether that’s a good or a bad thing I don’t really know. Obviously it doesn’t smell like a zombie would, because who really knows what that would smell like. Instead, it smells like you are the zombie - it imagines what scents you might encounter as you first arise from your grave. A strong presence of wet, dank mosses and soil are reminiscent of someone unearthing the ground with a shovel in the pouring rain; whilst the more obscure notes of mushrooms and mildew create this horrible earthy flesh-like accord. Overall, it smells disgusting to put it frankly. But despite that, I can’t exactly hate on it because it’s achieving exactly what it says it should, so in that sense it’s a complete success of a fragrance. I absolutely would never wear it though and I fear anyone who does.
Naomi Goodsir describes Corpus Equus as a tribute to a fiery and impetuous horse, but I imagine a horse which has become impetuous as a result of being overworked tirelessly day in and day out by his masters. It has the very essence of man brooding over natural facets which are so desperately trying to push through. The leather here reminds me of the thick, brown, hard leather used to make saddles - this particular saddle has been worn down and used for years on end. The overwhelming smoky notes of birch, frankincense and smoked woods draw imagery of said saddle sat beside a campfire, resting on an oaken branch as horse and its master rest beside it. I think it’s physically impossibly not to imagine an entire story and environment around you when smelling this scent. There’s so much depth and rich connections hiding beneath the surface. This is my first encounter with Naomi Goodsir and I’m definitely intrigued to try more, but despite how thought provoking this fragrance is I can’t see myself wearing something like this.
