This feels quite similar to the last fougere but with crucial differences being the warmth is instantly there, and there seems to be slightly less complexity to this. More of a detectable nutmeg note and the usual bergamot, lemon, and elemi, toned down pine and moss, but a little more, classicly men's fougere about this, drying down to a not so hypergreen fragrance but more of a leathery, aftershave full of eighties vibe and perhaps more moss chiming as it settles down. It's nice.
Wow! Again Sultan just keeps giving these looks and it's a treat for perfume fans because he clearly blends with such skill and Passion. I don't really feel as though I have to blow smoke up the guys arse but not one of these attars is dominant in a single note, no matter how individually complex that note might be? That is rare in the world of these oils, to be so prolific at mixing elements and not getting mud or unfocused fragrances. These all have a brightness and clarity. So this is a fougere opening with a green lemon and lime citrus sparkling with elemi and pine. The general feeling is as green as the attar itself and gives an instant transportation back to childhood. I'm not sure if it's mine or a past life or a fantasy? but it feels like something I experienced whether waking or in a dreamstate. Strangely clean and mountain air like, the technicolour of the hills and mountain tops in a sound of music, but with a soapy forest floor, and mossy bark with fresh fungus peeking out...giving an almost psychotropic effect. The oakmoss element is there but not as strong as I thought it might be, but again that speaks to the blend of many materials coming together. Is there coumarin or tonka warmth there? That's what you have to ask with a fougere, or does it replace that sweet warmth with something else and I'd say this likely does but it's not as perceivable, although drying down to a lovely warm scent on skin with the most delicate barely there coffee note. I think it's fantastic and one of a few fougere's Sultan has in his collection some of which use less expensive materials.
Wow! This is stunning, instantly arresting floral explosion, with that nightblooming vibe completely inkeeping with the name. Although it's clearly not orange blossom dominant, I can smell it in the opening clear as a bell. It's always surrounded by a rich gardenia/tuberose which builds and builds on my skin and is just the right side of the inside of banana peels and bubblegum. If this was bubblegum it would be the most exotic, all natural bubblegum from Fortnum & Mason or something? It's COMPLETELY not my scene and still I find it unbelievably beautiful... like it's stunning, it really is. When dried down I get the vibe as if it was the remnants of a honied, floral perfume on a well worn jacket complete with stale cigarette smoke...my kinda gal! and an almost aquatic Ozone, maybe a touch of chlorinated pool, but only a waft of the gases in the air surrounding the fragrant, white floral goddess. So to recap this goddess is a rebellious, rocky, lifeguard, in a leather jacket, smoking tabs, blowing bubbles with expensive gum, drinking a North African Orange Blossom cocktail and eating a banana, while wearing bandit or something? It's a KO. Simply must be tried.
A while back, I was strangely attracted to this from a distance among some more fancy niche perfumes and just assumed it was one of those by the striking bottle. However, I was instantly repelled by the fact that it was Dylan Blue for women, due to the utter apathy caused by the men's iteration of this line. It's not 'bad' as such just a crystallisation of everything that's unimaginatively dull about designer fragrances. Anyway, Fragrantica wardrobe stalking is a real phenomena, and something I budded 'socially acceptable fragrance stalking' on a recent forum discussion. Anyway I was looking at one profile in particular littered with vintage Guerlain's and a who's who of pivotal and great niche and indy stuff and nestled among that this gleaming flacon, so I thought I'd best actually try it. That flacon for a start, looks great and really stands out although it does also resemble an urn. I was half expecting to me reprimanded when trying to spritz, then some poor unfortunate sods ashes to come spilling out! Not so...just perfume and hyper feminised perfume at that. I'm open t florals to some extent and from a DIY perfumers perspective I have to try to see the merit or technique behind everything, regardless of whether I'd want to wear it or not. So that being said I actually felt at first bombared by fruity melons and cassis, white flowers, and hyperclean, powder. It's a modern aroma chemical powder, not a soft resin or alluring musk powder either, kinda fresh and bright. I often describe things like this as having a rose hip note, when they don't but it's actually listed in the notes here so I feel vindicated. As it settles to me its a jasmine/muguet tinged with a hint of greens and a slight moistness and nothing more exciting than that. Got better in the drydown but to be honest I showered and went to bed without taking much notice of development. However, I did note that there was a really waxy, slightly unpleasant, hand cream that combo of white florals and an aquatic calone sort of note remaining on my clothes the next day, but ONLY at a distance. When you put your nose in for a proper sniff the remnant completely changes (like 180) and is actually a very pleasant jasmine, which is much more rounded now and even has a mild idolic quality but still with that fresh and clean base/mid hum, but more lived in and a bit warmer. Now I've dedicated quite a lot of time to talking about a scent which really doesn't bring a great deal of anything new to the table but if you like this vibe and want something which I ultimately think is executed quite well and that lasts, then Dylan Blue is a viable option.
This is a superb fragrance with a bold spicy, tolu/cinnamon opening giving way to an almost light and translucent amber accord which feels a little underwhelming....at first that is. However Bapteme is a creeping, stealthy little amber, building all the while to a crescendo of near full on sticky, amber immersion. It doesn't quite go heavy gourmand (cacao of benzoin) too vanillic or incense heavy a la TF AA (Labdanum dominant) nor does it go full dusty old book/library on you either. This is a middling amber combining a balance of these and another type the more airy, natural breath of ambergirs complete with a light saltiness. This also has a very subtle (but ever present) touch of rose and geranium to complete the whole Ambre Nuit asociation I also get from this perfume. The overall quality reminds me also of Profumum roma Aurea and Fiori but this is just lacking slightly on the longevity and overall presence to push it into the realm of elite ambers. What is does have going for it is that it's very well priced at £110 for 100ml and I'm fixated on performance so I can over look that in any case, just figured it was worth mentioning for those that do. A strong outing then from Phaedon in my humble opinion well worth checking out. :)
Respectfully to the last post I have to disagree. It's not hard to dislike. After sampling the new and from memory, slightly butchered (certainly the bottle has been) version of Grain de Soleil this stuff immediately struck me as something with a bright, light opening. The blackcurrant, cassis note is sharp and smells pretty much like the cassis base used in many perfumes and often paired with rose. Here this smells like something that should be scenting a home in a reed diffuser or being sprayed from a budget aerosol can. I hate to be so reductive about a prestigious Grasse institution like Fragonard because I generally like everything I've ever tried but this didn't grab me. Does have a base and an interesting transition in the base, completely changing into a more recognisable and woody sort of perfume. (rather than air freshener) I don't want to hate on it because I found it weirdly impressive but not wearable for me.
Orange and oud. This is a strong opening of both and bergamot (which for me is essential in any citrus opening even if it's more orange centric) very interesting as I've been playing around with something similar myself, and did think that oud could really work. Whata ya know? Pasha has done it and it does. The animalic cheese of oud is shortlived in the opening but the orange/mandarin element sticks around while the resinous, woody nature comes out. Also there's an waxy orange blossom element, I'd be fascinated to know if he bolstered his Orange flower absolute with an orange blossom accord built from synthetics? It feels like that, again mirroring my own efforts. The drydown has a margainally chocolatey amber likley from the Benzoin which does have that vanilla/cacao nuance to it...again working with orange well. This is really nice and original, the elements not too complex but having their own level of inherent complexity keeping the whole thing intriguing throughout. God bless Oud.
Taking a step back from this one. I found the opening almost fougere green in a funny way. I'm not sure what is going on with this one? It's odd. More of the iris/orris dominance but it's very wet, and herbal. Strange as when you smell the headspace of this attar from the bottle (or sample vial in my case) it's incredibly sweet and amazingly lush, yet quickly on skin it's dry and unnerving to me. Not dissimilar to irisoir but enough for me to have a preference for that one.
Not usually a beewax fan (or honey really?) but I was converted by Slowdive last year. However I understand that honey and beeswax are changeable in the sense many materials are dependant on source, extraction...myriad factors! Anyway I'm always open to liking it and I've got to say that this is one of the finest examples of a honey/beeswax fragrance one could imagine. It's sublime! The honied opening is PERFECTLY judged and blended to absolute elite levels with rose saffron and the most complimentary partner for it...tobacco with it's inherent bitter and sweet undertones. Dries right down to a mellow not cloying, but sweet rich...woolly, comforting fragrance. Having said all this positive stuff about it...It's no Slowdive. This carries a middle eastern attar, sensibility with it (perhaps in the rose and saffron?) and just isn't modern enough for me to wear or justify purchasing. Really, really, really good though!
This is a wow! from me. Animalic but smooth oud dominance but with traces of roses and opulent musk. The oud character itself carries the whole thing starting with a mild cambodian cheese or real civet smell opening instantly diffusing into dark woody resinous tones. Al Hareem is mainly oud to my nose but the rose does develop as it dries down, never quite going what you'd call 'sweet' though. As someone who has a few oud attars this is familiar, powerful but no where near the most animalic or potent oud you will smell. This is clearly of great quality (not sure if all Pasha's oud comes from Ensar?) and when you are in the mood for it, just perfection. Superb.
Stunning! (at first) This is an unlikely favourite in the shape of a sort of gourmand attar, very sweet opening of citruses and jelly sweets with, boozy incense and then woods. It's a dizzying and rich composition, I have to say that I love the opening more than when it's settled, but it does become more rounded, grown up, less sweet. Harder to describe notes and categorise. I like it though.
This is an impressive attar no doubt, but the combination of massive tuberose and vetiver is complimentary but opens borderline unpleasant to me as it's SO waxy and thick and with the earth of vetiver it comes over a bit like a more floral vetiver dance Andy Tauer. There's a weird chamomile type note maybe coming from the vetiver?Interesting to note the quality and amount of ambergris in this composition. Tuberose materials are quite varied from the limited experience I have, for example a from Effleurage material has completely changed how I think about tuberose, and the same is true of vetiver it's not all about big smokey Java and Haitian stuff. The waxy, handcream effect is curbed as it develops though but it's still a bit relentless for me, white floral and vetiver lovers alike will likely be bowled over by this fragrance, it's superb, just not my bag.
Opens up bright and cheery with a jam like sweetness and they some more decayed, geraniol rose giving a nice combination of sweet and dry/herbal. In all honesty the composition is dominated by rose (to begin with) and the only support I perceive is the mild sweetness of honey as it opens and a gentle breath of ambergris and oud when dried down. Don't get me wrong all this conspires to create enough complexity in a rose absolute perfume which has plenty in an of itself, but it doesn't speak to me as much as some. I think the fact that ambergris is identifiable in the dry down is interesting. It's great but not life changing.
I get a kind of cacao, chocolatey note in the opening and the support of heliotrope adding to the sickly sweet sensation, perfectly juxtaposed with earthy touches. It does have the sensation of classical iris/orris very rich but mildly herbal not that I've tried Iris Gris but this smells antiquated (in a good way) Nice blend, one of the more subdued attars in the collection, opening bold then mellowing considerably and with so much else to love it doesn't stand out but that's not to say it isn't brilliant because it clearly is.
As far as authentic myrrh fragrances go, this is pretty good and it's rare to get something showcasing the more off kilter, dry, medicinal side of resins, fitting with the ancient theme of the brand very well I thought. The opening is a bold spice statement from cinnamon but it's nicely tempered into an 'accord' of sorts with a nutmeg note, smelling predominantly of neither, which is a good balance. It's a little chaotic though, disjointed and very 'Indy' like (I mean what else do I expect from an indy?) I didn't have expectations of Peter being Thierry Wasser on his first foray, but let's face it, the guy has talked a big game on his youtube channel and anything less than life changing brilliance is sure to be a disappointment. Dendera is good, don't get me wrong, the way it settles to this opoponax/myrrh orris smell is pleasurable wear, the spicy opening is nicely transient (about 30 mins of top notes) and flows into that main body of the fragrance. I don't really detect the oud overtly (which was another surprise) but I've no doubt it's holding all this other stuff together. The first time I applied it as well as the spicy top I found a sharp, sappy wood/resin(like atlas cedar or olibanum), almost camphorous note but upon the second application it was replaced by more of an outright myrrh from the get go. (that's why you should always sample multiple times if you can) There's lots to like here but something about it doesn't quite hang together and it didn't speak to me personally in the way that I had hoped. It behaves like a 'proper' perfume there's clearly top, middle and base notes and it lasts very well. Worth a sniff but didn't grab me.
It’s very difficult to convey my feelings about this perfume because they are so disparate but to use the cliché ‘love/hate’ is an understatement. The negatives are that I couldn’t wear Gaea, and not due to the honey notes which I actually think are very nice in this big, bold, authentic context against the atomic fruity note in here. It’s that syrupy, hyper pineapple smell of chewy, fruit salad bars (or something?) which eventually settles and subsides to a degree but still makes it a big no no for me. Now the positives are that I did say wow! When I first sprayed it because from a technical & originality aspect it’s instantly arresting, bold, and makes a big statement with a few olfactory ideas being conveyed simultaneously and feels like a layered composition instead of a thundering great Indy lump. As I mentioned Gaea does become cloying (to my tastes) shortly after but all the while I can feel the base, the green undergrowth slowly creeping into the fruity/honied vibes adding a naturalist layer. The best thing is the base, wait for it to settle right down and that’s where the rewards are waiting to be found it’s rare that you actually smell ambergris in perfume, it’s more of a fixative or exalting agent which improves ANY composition whether you overtly smell it or not. Here you do though, vague buttery, animalic saliva, breath on warm skin. It’s ultimately not for me but very, very interesting indeed, I’m curious to know what mixture of materials Peter used to create the fruity accord in here? It’s very potent to begin with but settles down quite mellow (thankfully) and long lasting Update: That vague animalic ambergris becomes marginally more skanky and shades of the civet replacer and dirtier element of ambergris that is for the most part completely shrouded in the fruity, honied opening and majority of the wearing experience.
Okay so Voyage from Hiram Green is striking in the same way that everything from Hiram is, the natural beauty immediately apparent. To me the florals are vivid in the opening but this is far from a floral fragrance. It smells faintly of a fruity, honey tinted tuberose/jasmine but lacking the power or character of either but somehow still evoking them, and that’s a positive for me don’t get me wrong. I don’t want to mislead tuberose lovers this is not that not is it even a floral centric fragrance because even in the opening I perceived what I felt was tonka be an absolute, clear as day. It’s not listed on here (not that it means anything Fragrantica is about as accurate as Nostradamus sometimes) but vanilla is and I have to say when everything else has gone after many ours it smells like the most gorgeous and simplistic vanilla note. Before that though it’s a dirty vanilla which I think is likely very high quality natural vanilla bolstered with isolated coumarin or indeed tonka absolute. It’s gorgeous and feels in its use here like the real warm base of a fougere allowing the greener notes or in this case a floral, amber oriental notes to shine through but act in a more transient nature. I love it, I don’t know what the original voyage was like but this one is pretty special I’d say.
Plague and pestilence is upon us! The sea will boil, swarms of locusts, and all that biblical shit, The ground opening up and releasing daemons into our mortal realm you know? All that. Why?? Because there's a Diesel fragrance that I actually like!!!! (Well think is passable) Well more accurately an 'OTB' line because they had those milk carton ones back in the day which were pretty good. In any case I've hated the rest with exception of this and maybe that camo one from a few years ago? This has a similar character actually, fruity opening, into a woody musk with touches of warmth. It's not great but It's alright, I was pretty shocked.
This one opens woody with a citrus blend, perhaps that grapefruit again? I actually think there's a peppery, light smoked hint of cedar at the back of this and if it was just cedar and citrus I'd probably accuse it of being boring or cliched, so I can't have it both ways. (Well actually you can just make a better fragrance!!) however, the vanilla makes the whole thing a bit smooshy...not offended as such, I just don't like it and I'm not a fan.
Almost lost the will to live in completing my reviews of this collection because the Vanilla ones just aren't that good. Vanori opens nice enough with a fresh, sharp and bitter grapefruit. There's an aroma chemical in here that I'm familiar with but can't place at the moment, in a woody context here it feels masculine, doesn't save this scent though. It feels misjudged in my humble opinion (which I'm sure people will disagree with) certainly after the initial freshness is gone. It can't tell whether it wants to go in a woody, aromatic direction or languish in a cloying, balmy vanilla hell? When settles there's a cozy woody smell in the base, familiar and slightly balsamic, rubbery nearly but despite that cozy warmth...it's not appealing. A couple of the Musc ones glimpse the spirit of vanilla heavy Guerlain offerings and I noticed someone comparing this to Angelique Noire below, sorry Angelique Noire this is not. Shame.
Look at the notes listed here and I'll show you a happy man, anticipating a lovely creamy, fruity fragrance...but no. How to they fuck up vanilla so badly? Especially when the entire line has nods to popular Guerlain, vanilla laden formulas? I don't get it? So Valkyrie opens fantastically and I actually thought this was the equivalent of the Oranzo & Helicriss in that it's herbal, aromatic, slightly green and masculine leaning, all of which I enjoy, especially with a vanilla backdrop to combine with, it could've been interesting. However, it's very short lived and soon settles to a cloying groove of hideous, cheap, yellow custard, sweetness with maltol caramel. I'd love to actually use maltol/ethyl maltol or bisabolene effectively in a formula because trace effects probably do wonders in fragrances you don'r even detect them in. That's the key but blending though I guess? When you perceive but can't overtly smell them. In this instance there's not enough to mask the vape pen effect. I will concede that now after 6 1/2 hours the soft musk/vanilla on my clothes is a little better or my nose is fatigued and has just waved a little white flag and accepted defeat and resigned itself to the ineviatbility of smelling this way today whether I like it or not. Buy the ticket take the ride.
I've smelled something similar to Vangelis before and it's spicy opening leads out into a balmy amber testure but again there's something wrong with this scene. It has a medicinal rubbery effect on top of the gag inducing, tepid, wobble of a poorly made vanilla pannacotta. I'm kinda drawn to it by the resinous, dryness of the spices for a moment but I need to be strong and stick to what I'd wear and this ain't it.
I'm starting with my favourite of this collection so the reviews are only going to get worse folks. I've got to say that this Vanille collection are pretty terrible on the whole, something I was very surprised by considering some of the similarities with Guerlain's L'art Matiere line, glimpses of which are found in the musc and orange blossom lines...but oddly not the one where you'd expect to find it, The vanilla collection. Vahina (careful to avoid a typo the 'G' conspicuously close to the 'H' as it is) literally smells like Dramduie or a particularly heavy handed bartenders, Screwdriver in the opening a mixture of orange and breath of booze. There's a neroli/herbal green, petitgrain note freshening things up but generally when it settles has that effervescing, swizzles sweets vibe from Ozkan in the orange blossom collection. This one probably is the best from the Vanille ones, the vanilla being ever present and freshened up by synthetic, throwaway top but it's more fun than the rest, and mildly bearable to wear.
ozkan opens like fizzy, ‘Refresher’ or ‘Love Hearts’ sweets, chalky, effervescent and saccharine sweet. Somehow still bearable and wearable especially when you start to smell what’s at the core. Experience told me I could smell it in the opening and this would be a chameleon but it’s so funny how much of a 180 this does. I get Tonka and very reminiscent general ‘accords’ from Guerlain’s L’Art et la Matiere line, Cuir Beluga creamy and almost almond like and with the delicate touch of Iris ganache...loads of the good ones basically. This is very indulgent and well put together the orange blossom is there but somewhat second fiddle to a stunning base. I love it, and the sweetie opening is fun and interesting. The best one from this Orange blossom collection for me.
