This juice is yet another keeper from Phaedon they're working magic just judging by the ones I've tried. The opening to Sable Marocain is madness and super super sweet, smells like jelly beans but not as sharp maybe more like jelly babies. Anyway as that settles after a few minutes the cophu balm and cacao come into play and comparisons with L'instant de Guerlain extreme as Chorando mentions below are totally understandable and I thought the same sfter a few minutes of sniffing. It's more of a glancing nod in lidge's direction than a copycat though. This fragrance is about an amber accord, dense wood, labdanum and vetiver and the drydown is almost unrecognisable from that fruity sweet opening. I doff my cap to Phaedon again for creating a nice fragrance but doesn't blow me away and I probably wouldn't wear it myself. Just a quick update deep into the drydown and I can really smell it still emanating from my skin it doesn't smell bad, I've just grown tired of it extremely quickly. It's become a murky blur no roughness or sharpness left and I'm not enjoying it.
Woweee what Strength! This takes no prisoners at all unrelenting dark, dark, green forrest magnificent. The black, Gothic juice finally in my possession it reminds me of a jar of black olives. I could speak about the naturalistic fir, rotten pine needle laden Forrest floor all day. Instead I'm going to speak to the burnt but not smokey, sawdust element which takes me back to school in woodwork class. Norne smells like singed MDF (couldn't be less natural!) or friction burned wood. It has a deep resinous quality and is totally unique smelling with the spiciness and perception of smoke giving a meditative incense vibe. This composition seems simple, and is really...Norne provokes, varying but definite responses which give a air of complexity. I love it and it can stain me all it wants, I'd wear it... not sure when though? The silage and longevity from this extrait are massive.
Love the smell of this it's a masterful blend of grapefruit citrus notes in the top, blending with a lovely calming lavender, thyme and vanilla accord. Invasion Barbare is top quality juice well executed, as it dries down I can smell the violet peeping through so all in all a nice sophisticated and safe composition. Just to get things in perspective though I think the price is utterly ridiculous and it's a rare thing for me to complain about price because I've been known to splash out silly money on fragrances I love. However non of the MDCI Parfum's I've tried with the exception of Cuir Garamante have been show stoppers and that's important when it comes to parting with so much cash. The resin busts are very cool and I have to admit I desperately want one for my collection but they're a total rip off £240 for 60ml Bust version flacon. My dilemma is between the similarly priced Cuir Garamante and By Killian Incense Oud which at least has a re-fillable and very nice flacon which comes in a beautiful lockable box. I'm usually not motivated by 'frills' but sometimes collecting is as much about style as it is about substance. Update: This fragrance is a very enjoyable experience I've had a lovely wear from it today and I've now exhausted my sample. I respect this juice for it's elegance and development over several hours it's just what I needed today a breath of fresh air. Really quiet on the sillage front but surrounded me in a gentle mist of complex sophistication. Lovely stuff but still not a show stopper, I can understand why people love it though.
Dzongkha is a delightful fragrance it's dry, spicy, slightly smokey and above all unique. The first thing I got from it was the earthy spice and vetiver combo which put me in mind of another Bertrand Duchaufour creation for L'Artisan, Timbuktu. Then the main note for me is tea and cardamom it's a strained english tea right in the heart of the fragrance quite rough though still refreshing. But wait! Yet another transition in the dry down...All the spice fades to the back and a soft iris with a touch of leather appears more prominent. I deliberately had no prior knowledge of the components of this fragrance and it was a welcome surprise to test my nose with something so easily decipherable. I really like this fragrance it's so manly and interesting and honestly was a relief after a few disappointments from this house.
Bergamot and Guava bursting forth from this juice what a tropical opening. I greatly anticipated this fragrance and it hasn't disappointed one bit. An exotic cocktail, Antigua feels like wearing bermuda shorts and the loudest hawaiian shirt complete with a lei around your neck! As such may not be to everyones taste but this just screams me all over and a recent addition to my collection was an oud perfume with a guava top note and that is incredible. Patchouli, vetiver and a musky base... simple really. As perfect for summer as something like Creed's Virgin Island Water but with better longevity & projection also crucially, much better value for money. I love Antigua and as I suspected Phaedon is turning out to be a real quality house offering awesome fragrances at competitive prices.
WOW!!! what an opening! This was the first Andy Tauer fragrance I ever tried and it will always leave a lasting impression on me. How leather can be so full on and strong yet elegant at the same time I don't know but Lonestar memories seems to manage it. This is a dirty, filthy, spiced leather. I picture a guy working on his motorbike, smoking a cigerette, leather jacket hanging in a garage surrounded by oily rags and grubby overalls. (Or the Cowboy imagery that it's based on fits fine too!) Smokiness galore, resinous too with the earthy, natural, root aroma. Again not one for beginners in the fragrance game a leather of the highest quality though and in perfumery terms a brave masterpiece. I'll have to try it again to make sure but I don't think it's something I'd wear. I love it & respect it but prefer L'air du desert Marocain because it speaks to me personally. Just knowing Lonestar memories exists fills me with joy!
Re-Review....Just adding some thoughts on this juice as I'm wearing my last sample today. I'm still 100% on board with it and although I noticed the likeness first time around I never realised how delicate and LDDM like the drydown is. It opens with smoke but Lonestar is not nearly as smokey as I first thought, that's no criticism in actual fact I like I like it more and more now. I think that might be me becoming more desensitized to smokey perfume after trying things like Profumum Roma Fumidus. Good sillage, projection and Longevity but I have L'air du desert Marocain and I don't think I need this one as well although I think it's just as good if not a little better.
Right...let's get into this infamous fragrance. Firstly just let me say that secretions magnifiques reputation proceeded it and I'd watched people sampling it for the first time in 'reaction' videos on YouTube. The whole Pervy concept and playful naughtiness of it appeals to me a great deal. The sweat, blood and semen thing is so apparent that this fragrance meets it's brief with absolute certainty. ALL THAT REALLY NEEDS TO BE SAID ABOUT THIS FRAGRANCE IS VERY CONCISELY STATED ABOVE...JUST READ THAT ENTIRE BLURB 'SUBVERSIVE & DISTURBING' IT MOST CERTAINLY IS!!!! Upon application the top notes are very pleasant, floral almost powdery sweet orris root and something natural and charged, like the smell after a thunderstorm. Then as it settles after a minute or two you get the metallic, blood like milky strange thing I'd been waiting for...and frankly it's not too bad. Strange...oh yeah it's strange alright, it also has a slightly unpleasant but again perfectly natural 'seaside' accord. Salty, seaweedy and yes even a little bit fishy but please don't be put off by that. There's also a slight milky sandalwood/coconut vibe, this fragrance delivers every note and vibe that reviewers speak about and if you haven't tried it you can't help but be very intrigued and perplexed (as was I) and feel an overwhelming desire to try it for yourself. My verdict then.??? Well I'm not sure I'd wear it but it's brave and that's what I want from a perfume, something different and this delivers. Not everyone's cup of tea but I'm firmly in the 'like' camp for Secretion magnifiques. It also has insane projection and can be smelled by others readily despite the nature of it feeling like a skin scent, it's strong and lasts a very long time on my skin. Update: Just to revert slightly on my original position. I can see where the hate comes from, I think you have to wear it for a while to get it but when it comes you just want to scrub it. It's all consuming I applied a tiny amount to my pulse points as an initial test and it started to get on my nerves. It still doesn't smell bad it just wears you down after a few hours and the fatigue just makes you want out. It's soooo enduring I would call it a scrubber...but that doesn't even work! Two showers, numerous washing of my hands and even application of other fragrances and the next day well over 30hrs later and I can still smell it...unless it's my imagination and it's haunting my nose? I've scrubbed and scrubbed and I can still smell it's cold, metallic nature on my skin. This fragrance is for crazy people truly.
Like the name suggests it's chocolate really. Bitter cacao throughout with a hint of sandalwood. The critical element in chocolate fragrances tends to be the vanilla. It sets the tone of what kind of chocolate vibe you're going to get and here the vanilla is minimal on first trial to my nose. This has a slight orange hint in the opening before becoming a moderately dark dusty coco powder. With nothing really to lift it this fragrance is okay and worth checking out for chocolate lovers. Not for me though I'm still trying to get my fix elsewhere but illusive 'perfect' chocolate is proving difficult to find.
The only feeling this one stirs in me is one of abject disappointment! I couldn't wait to try this I imagined it was fantastic from the notes. Also I desperately want to add one of these to my wardrobe...I mean the STOPPER IS A SCULPTED BUST for heavens sake!!! Don't get me wrong this smells good, fresh well balanced and blended notes that crate a masculine mix of musk and oakmoss with fruity top notes and lavender. Just to mention the opening, it's wonderfully fruity for a split second and that pineapple note is really nice. I just suspect its a victim of being too understated for something which should stand up and be counted considering the grandiose, borderline pomposity of the brand and packaging and above all price. I really hate to be a philistine but this to me smells like a long lost Lynx deodorant from the 90's, albeit a very nice classy version. Dry down is pleasant longevity is average. Certainly has something of the mundane about it, I was expecting to be swept away by Ambre Topkapi instead I just feel a bit empty. I really, really hope that Invasion Barbare is better because I want one of these preposterously opulent flacons!
Oh man this fragrance is so insanely good I'm going to struggle to articulate myself in this review. Reminiscent of Exactly the right balance of rose in rose/oud fragrances like a mixture between By Killian Rose Oud and Incense Oud. Rouge Avignon is special stuff that sweet delicate rose and the perception of raspberry in the top notes is addictive! So magical and smells so similar to a few fragrances I've sniffed before but possibly better. The base is amber, sandalwood and I do get the slightly earthy tuber note too. Wonderful, perfect mixture of woody and sweet smells very very expensive but thankfully is from Phaedon and the price is very reasonable considering the quality. Great projection and longevity...Rouge Avignon is definitely on my radar. Update second try and I totally get loads of cacao and hinoki wood this fragrance is an absolute gem. My only minor criticism is that it's not quite as pungent and long lasting as some roses but hey you can't have everything...still adore it, what a scent!!!!
This is only the second Tauer fragrance I've tried and I must say I'm impressed. I thought this would be a real powerhouse hit of spice and leather judging by the name but it turns out L'Air du desert Marocain has a light touch. Gorgeous bold opening of petitgrain before the spices settle and becomes a deep warm amber, it's never ever harsh and captures the 'air' vibe perfectly. The caraway and coriander float on the top as if carried on the breeze and has a strange quality of projecting without being strong at all. What I mean by that is you have to get close up to the skin to smell L'Air du desert Marocain but on occasion I caught a whiff of it during the day and it seemed to be in the air. It's a tricky one and I like that....'secret silage' I'm going to call it. :) Anyway it's needless to say I'm impressed with this juice it's been a long time coming and I've heard lots people sing it's praises, now I know why. Update: Few hours in and the dry down is spectacular close to the skin now but it smells so comforting and warm it's gorgeous! I'm getting this no doubt about it!
Can't say I like this and it's the first Montale I've tried that I don't. There's wood to be fair but it's not all that pleasant and as for the spices? I don't understand the spicing because it feels flat. very strong sickly accord with an awful muggy, bitterness which renders Wood & Spices unwearable for me. There's definitely a honey note which is usually a killer for me but in this instance it's more than just that. I do get a spicy sandalwood in the dry down but it's too little too late and ruined by that off, olfactory 'nosedive' as I've appropriately named it. The top and middle of a each individual sniff is okay then the last bit is awful. Like having a promising hand to begin with then being sold down the river in a game of texas hold 'um! Is there Oud in here? Montale is certainly adept at making a wide range of Oud fragrances so it could be that? If there is it's not resembling anything I'm familiar with? Amoungst all this negative stuff there's something redeeming about the fragrance almost if it was tweaked a little, I'd like it but as it stands I most certainly don't.
What an appropriate name... fits perfectly. Aldehyde's are the main note in this, the fresh grapefruit/yuzu is really beautiful of all the citruses out there this one stands out as it's not immediate what's going on. Reminds me of lemonade ice lollies and nothing is more refreshing than that. It has a strange watery quality, again with reference to the name which doesn't come off as deliberately aquatic. All in all this is a strange fish. This lab on fire lot love their Hinoki wood huh? Kinda equates to a clean cedar/fir/pine vibe to my nose but again the way it's incorporated into this scent is clever. Anyway... what lets it down is that it was 'almost transparent...' on my skin after a hell of an opening it dies a death remarkably quickly. I like the quirky fun branding and bottles from this house just wish this juice gave off more of an air of quality. I did only use a tiny amount so another wear is definitely necessary. If you like Aldehydic, fresh, light, citrus fragrances and thought you'd smelled everything this will give you something to think about. I reserve final judgement. Update: Upon my second wearing I was really taken with the bright opening of yuzu which has a real Mandarin quality I didn't get so much on the first wear. This is like a classier more subtle version of Clinique Happy which really energizes. It has a slight juniper feel to it as well but really it's straight up citrus/aldehydes and fresh cedar for me. I wore a lot this time and the longevity is okay but not great it's a clean fragrance for summer and if you're prepared to spend the money I'd go for it. Not for me though.
Oh lord thankyou for 1270!!! I'd read the note breakdown for this fragrance and thought how perfect it sounded but past experience has taught me to expect disappointment. Finally got my hands on a sample and I'm so glad it delivered! The pineapple note is the first thing that hits you and it's sweet and realistic then there's a coffee, patchouli, cacao, vanilla wonderfully Nutty gourmand thing. 1270 is a class act from start to finish it makes you smell edible...positively edible. I don't mean this in a ridiculous sense but in a deeply sensual way. The pineapple is persistent and you do get a jammy, plummy little bit figgy thing too it's an immense fragrance. If you couldn't tell I adore this scent my first impressions have been very good however it didn't last very long on my skin. Once again a second wear should yield answers regarding longevity. Update: Upon wearing a second time I'm just as captivated as when I first caught a whiff of this lovely juice. To me the prominent notes are pineapple, cacao and wood. It's almost like a pineapple upside-down cake covered in nutella, it has a kind of caramelized quality without being too sweet. I think that's because of the honey element and the fact that it doesn't feel 'blended' particularly, more like the pineapple sits right on the top and feels juicy and clear compared to the warm,sweet base. I adore this fragrance and really want it but the performance is a bit of a let down and it doesn't project. Despite this it smells really really good and before I got so heavily into niche fragrances I would be prepared to put up with some minor short comings. (Something like Tom Ford For Men springs to mind.) for this reason and the fact that the price is high but not extortionate I will still consider getting this.
Wow! This is the epitome of dense wood, 10 roam even opens with it and what a gorgeous opening it is! Rare for a fragrance to go on SO woody, revealing a peak at the base before the sweet coconut comes into play. Then a very classy, dark, warming cocoa butter scent is revealed in the heart with a touch of ginger and saffron. It's not hugely complex but does enough to impress me. It's like if you kept your lip balm inside an antique wooden chess set. Great fragrance for winter this, it's a heavy one though maybe a touch too heavy on the coconut for me now I'm deep into wearing it. Thankfully the dry down has become intensely woody again and as such very enjoyable. This is only my first time wearing 10 Roam, so my second wear will be when I form a proper solid opinion. My first impressions are very good though.
As soon as I opened the sample bottle the aroma hit me and I thought 'boy oh boy this is going to be a sweet one!' Straight away I got a citrus fruit and cherry liquor type note mixed with cinnamon almost like a mish-mash of smells in a sweetshop. That may seem derogatory but I mean it in a massively positive way this fragrance is magic smells like it's going to be very cloying but when it hits my skin it becomes less sweet and totally manageable. The catalyst in this fragrance for me is labdanum making everything bright also the sandalwood base just reigns in the sweetness nicely. This stuff is perfect for someone like me who has a sweet tooth but doesn't want to be bombarded and also has a nose for the unique... because I've not come across anything like this one. I say that however the smell reminds me of something I can't put my finger on...just not a fragrance.
This is a true chocolate a bitter cacao note in the top which fades back into a slightly paler Vanille Absolu which I adore BTW. I can't say I dislike this fragrance far from it, in fact it's yummy, sweet, woody, vanilla just a bit redundant for me, Simply because of the similarity to VA. This is chocolate/vanilla wafers and when you smell really deep it does have a slight fruitiness and something which is undoubtedly Montale about it. Just like choosing an Ice cream flavour sometimes you're in the mood for chocolate sometimes vanilla...sometimes both? So I love this too...absolutely love it but when the ice cream in question costs over £100 a scoop (flacon) you have to make your mind up as you can't have both.
No higher praise than a compliment from my mum! She is often horrified by some of my fragrance choices and is not shy when it comes to being vocal about it. On the rare occasion I get a positive comment, I treasure it. "Have you been eating chocolate?" "Nah...I just smell of chocolate...do you like it?" "Yeah it's nice...you really smell of Chocolate, just like drinking chocolate" That constitutes a compliment to me, and this stuff does project it has classic Montale strength to it, obviously not the strength of the powerful Oud fragrances but very good. I'm seriously stuck between chocolate greedy, vanilla absolu and intense cafe, to be my first Montale purchase.
Sweet but more spacious take on vanilla. Extasy is a wonderful composition, I got a peach(turned out to be apricot) and benzoin adding to what is a more floral vanilla with jasmine adding to that feel. It's very nice and is unisex, even something I'd wear but I can't help a slight association with the more feminine aspect of apricots and peach with a gentler less full on Vanilla. Just from a point of view...I'd like to smell this on a woman rather than dismissing it being worn by a man. Calming, lovely more faultless perfume from Montale...lasts well too and makes itself known...not quite as deep and long lasting as Montale Vanille Absolu but projects more and still has excellent longevity.
This stunned me! Amazing gourmand, so insanely sweet but I for one could never get sick of that smell. It's reigned in perfectly being a little dark, this is what vanilla should be about eg: A naughty, tasty gourmand experience. Nothing weird or spicy or like sniffing vanilla essence or anything of that sort. I can't tell what the contributing factors are in this scent apparently cloves and cinnamon? Well I don't know if I get that maybe a hint which changes the character and makes it smell exactly like vanilla wafers. This fragrance is so delicious, so delightful I want it... right away! I think it's the woodiness of it too... it's dense and incredibly long lasting on my skin but very soft at the same time. This is one to wear in bed with your lover and guaranteed they will adore this level of edibility! THIS SMELLS DIVINE!!! Sweet tooth well and truly satisfied! Update: I've been struggling to decide between This, Chocolate Greedy and Intense Cafe. I had a sample of this left over and after being thoroughly convinced of it's charms myself I had my girlfriend wear it the other day. Wow!!! We went shopping and I was floating around in her sillage trail on cloud nine and so were others in transpired. My girlfriend walked past a young couple with a baby and I stayed as I was looking at something on a shelf near them. The young lady with the baby then exclaimed to her husband..."MMMMMMMMM Can you smell that? ...I just got a really strong smell of vanilla cookies! Can you smell that? where's it coming from....it's amazing!" My girlfriend couldn't hear as she'd walked off but her trail still lingered and was causing a real stir for this woman. As she said it I looked up...and she smiled I think she thought it was me because I'd heard her and had a knowing grin on my face. This is just another occasion where one of these gourmand Montale's has had this exact effect. Brilliant!!!! I'll probably buy this for my girl and I'll have Chocolate greedy.
Really surprised by this one goes on with a mass of lemon, grapefruit and lime...in fact every kind of citrus! It's a face strunching opening and has a massive accord of ginger to me which is reminiscent of Dior Homme sport. I think it's the petitgrain and earthy opening of vetiver giving the ginger type smell but that settles right down after about 10 mins. All bets are off after that and this becomes a beautifully crystal clear fragrance with a huge juicy mandarin note and then its clean green vetiver and long lasting assimilation of citruses. A minor criticism perhaps is that it transitions a little quickly from opening to basically what you get for several hours after saying that some fragrances don't even have a transition so maybe a moot point? I love this so much it's zingy and bright as any citrus slightly peppery spice with the gorgeous cleanness of Tom Ford Grey Vetiver. A citrus worthy of the price tag!
That blend of citrus fruits with resins and labdanum is SO sharp its quite ridiculous. I can't tell you how much this scent reminds me of absinthe or wormwood it's almost like menthol vapours, reminiscent of some sort of smelling salts for reviving the unconscious. So 'Invigorating' is a totally appropriate name for this juice. I wouldn't call this fruity as such the resinous, balsamic quality is more apparent than anything. The drydown is thankfully mellower than the opening. This is NOT at all for beginners, I think you have to be pretty seasoned to appreciate it...it's not my thing but It's not outside my realm of understanding. So yet another great scent from this house. Boadicea keeps on performing, I've not encountered a fragrance yet that I've been underwhelmed by but they have plenty so there's still time. Would I wear Invigorating? No, not my cup of tea.
Opens with promise a lovely tobacco note very similar to Cuir Mandarine. As other reviews have mentioned this quickly turns more into a patchouli fragrance than anything else. There's a hint of lavender in there too but as this dries down it doesn't offend me necessarily just disappoints...massively. Cuir mandarine was a bit disappointing and it's far better than this! You'd think they had similar longevity and projection etc being essentially very similar but no....this doesn't last at all and quickly retreats to a soft skin scent. Has the strange slightly smokey leather thing I mentioned from CM. Again Cuir Tabac smells good just doesn't 'pop' for me...disappointing at this price. Another one that warrants a second wear but I suspect it will be the same story second time around.
I was looking forward to trying this one so much that now I finally have, it feels like somewhat of an anticlimax. It smells fantastic to be fair an awesome tobacco wrapped in fruity mandarin two fairly common(especially male) perfumery elements brought together and done well I'd say. The patchouli is also big player in this fragrance and the leather drydown is okay but not quite what I was expecting. By that I mean it smells a little bit strange not a deep tanning leather or a smooth subtle leather just an odd, slightly disappointing leather. I think it's confused between whether it's a leather fragrance or a tobacco one and something doesn't quite sit right for me. Also, the longevity is good but quite average for such a pricey juice. Still having said that, I'm being overly critical because of the anticipation I felt before trying. Cuir Mandarine is a luxurious and enjoyable fragrance but I don't think I'll be adding it to my collection just yet, I think this requires a second wear and I'll update if I change my mind. Update: Wearing this again today and it's patchouli all the way! Those mandarin notes are quite fleeting and the leather/tobacco feel is apparent but the basis is in earthy patchouli which in this context is actually quite nice. It must be stronger for others than it is for the wearer. Yet again my mum commented on my sillage trail and said "whatever you're wearing is too strong!" then added "It's smells alright though." I'd have to agree with my mums appraisal really Cuir Mandarine is okay.
Okay so the parfum version of Terre d'Hermes landed in my possession recently. I dismissed it at first as being a sample of the EDT which I own and thoroughly enjoy wearing and very nearly gave it straight to a friend. Upon closer inspection however, I realised it was the Parfum version and couldn't wait to try it and test it side by side with the EDT. Just to mention before I tried it, I looked at the comments on here and was astounded to see that a few people have that they like the EDP but will stick to the EDT...'hmmmm? that's curious I thought' But upon trialling this EDP I can understand why. Terre d'Hermes parfum starts out instantly recognisable as the original but also vastly different in it's delivery it seems more orangey, less bitter and more juicy. Also it has a deeper boozier feel to me but less dry spice and vetiver compared to the original which really appealed at first. As the EDP dries down it becomes more familiar and converges with the EDT, spice and resin coming through but it still just slightly different. The drydown again they move out of synch the EDP becoming sweeter and woodier but less apparent than the EDT. Yes that's right the EDT has far superior longevity by a good few hours which is not expected at all. Also the thing which to me makes Terre d'Hermes is the benzoin and pepper with the vetiver which gives a roughness and dryness against that orange note. I thought this EDP was more juicy and orangey at first which really appealed but strangely as the fragrance progresses it's the EDT that retains more character and more of that orange note. So all round the EDT is better although there's no way you could like one and not the other as they're so close in smell. Interesting how subtle nuances can make all the difference and they certainly do here, some people will prefer this to the EDT, I did at first too as I mentioned but really can't get over how poor the longevity is.
