1969 reminds me hugely of coSTUME national Homme. The absurdly sweet opening which becomes intensely sugary which I love could put many off. The peach note is not playing around or girly it's concentrated, atomic fruit which is almost caramelized with a tiny touch of sweet rose. Then as it dries down the hints of chocolate and very delicate patchouli are evident driven by a gentle musk base. I for one think it's like a better version of coSTUME national even though 1969 doesn't quite have the same sharpness of cinnamon or clove although somehow the same effect is created. Also CN goes a bit sour after all that sweetness as an attempt to balance it. Sometimes I think if you go that far you should just stick to it and go 'all out sweet' and that's what this does. Longevity is average and it projects at first then dies down very quick. My sweet tooth and love of fruitiness makes me adore this.
This is a really odd outing from Tauer and something which I was eagerly anticipating but just straight forward don't like now I've tried it. The opening is a strange, stagnant one a little like acrylic paint but not even as nice somehow duller. It's oddly floral as it settles, lilly of the valley, loads of clary sage and pepper come to the forefront. The base of this fragrance is deeply rooted(no pun intended) in an earthy vetiver and ambergris but I get beeswax and a touch of honey even. It comes off like a very masculine hand cream to my nose, very weird and just unpleasant. Not something I would choose to smell like but an interesting composition from Andy Tauer who is impressive in his approach when tackling well known notes and accords, taking them in a different direction. Vetiver Dance is not for me.
The opening is stunning, full of petitgrain, citruses then when it settles a little the deep dry nature of vetiver and tea with maybe a hint of ginger. All the while at the back of this is a white floral note which is the unmistakably soapy texture of neroli. All these elements to me give this scent has a Mediterranean feel and the drydown becomes dominated by neroli and petitgrain. What I like about this fragrance is the strength and projection in the first couple of hours, if you like things like neroli portofino or Mugler Cologne this is a scent with some considerable power and pretty good longevity worth looking at. I for one am not so fond of neroli and it's dominant here, my summary of the first fragrance I've tried from this house is not bad at all.
Woah! This is a complete surprise as the the review below states...not what I'd been anticipating judging by the name. Not strong, fake, creamy or anything like a peppermint sweet. I've also grown various different types of mint and I can honestly say this does smell like them either. However Sherbet Peppermint has the most amazing green notes to it, fantastically fresh and invigourating but with peppermint running through it. Peppermint and spearmint are not the freshest to me but have a really lovely quality. Comme des Garcons have basically combined a very lovely grassy, green texture, a minty one with a hint of pepper and played god, creating a synthetic yet totally natural hybrid...it's intriguing and to my surprise, wearable. Don't get any amber really or any cardamom and the longevity is weak, you'd better just forget about projection this one isn't going to play ball. Can't wait to try the others in this series as peppermint was not what I'd expected.
This is a weird one for me...but a grower. It's instantly powdery but silky smooth and beyond the normal realms of perfume for me. They say the most instant and effective trigger for memories is an olfactory one...well they're not wrong! Certainly Pierre de Lune is to me reminiscent of a very specific memory and it's of playing at a friends house. These two lads called Mark & Matthew (it's so odd remembering them as I haven't thought about them in over 20 years) who lived down the street from my mum but never went to my school. I used to hang out with them in the holidays and their house smelled 'EXACTLY' the same as pierre de Lune. Was it a type of fabric softner their mum used or an air freshener...or even a perfume? Anyway...It's a combo of sweet jasmine & orris root, with powdery floral notes which creates a creamy smell which in my mind matches the name and the coloured stopper in the bottle. Not sure I like this, it's certainly unique but I wouldn't wear it.
This may seem like an overreaction to some but I think Eau de Jade is a masterpiece! It's citrus but it's a very, very rare thing to truly capture the pungent and waxy nature of the zest. This is like a concentration of that juicy sharpness, Pure lime zest!!!Many citrus juices neglect this crucial element, Armani and whoever the nose was on this seem to have nailed it. I made Coconut and Lime Ice cream recently and had to use alot of lime zest, infact a much of the cooking I do whether Chinese or Indian or even for putting in a corona or whatever... I use a hell of a lot of limes. This represents the true smell of zest and juice left on my hands afterwards but to just say it's that wouldn't be fair to the complexity of this composition. Eau de Jade is built to last it really did well on my skin and then the white floral element and pepper comes though more into the dry down without ever defining the nature of this scent. Again the musk base is in perfect harmony with the other elements in here...I love it! Top marks and fairly reasonably priced, I already held Armani's prive range in high regard now I've finally tried them all I'm absolutely in awe of them.
If a vetiver fragrance was ever worthy this sort of price tag it's Haitian Vetiver. I say that purely because of it's faith to the note, it gives you herbal, green, clean, earthy, fresh, dry, spicy, slighly smokey...everything that vetiver represents in one fragrance which doesn't hide behind other notes just gives it you straight. Usually I've find that boring in a composition but vetiver scents are all too often about the interplay between citrus & vetiver. I find Haitian Vetiver unashamedly masculine. I get a citrus in the opening and a hint of carrot seed but it doesn't define or detract from the vetiver at the heart. This is truly one of the unsung hero's of vetiver fragrances...great stuff and lasts a long time. I think this is bolder than Guerlain's vetiver (albeit a nice scent) or Tom Ford's Grey Vetiver (again a great frag) so check it out people.
I had to click 'Love' on this one a strong citrus bergamot & mandarin fragrance which smells truly amazing, juicy and uplifting. Petitgrain is a welcome partner in here but I don't get any oakmoss or anything that grounds the fragrance either in woods or greenness coming from something like vetiver? which it's sadly lacking. Hate to nay say such a quality citrus but it's too linear a composition and too expensive to excite me all that much.
As a huge fan of Zegna's more affordable designer fragrances I couldn't wait to try these having known of their existence for quite some time but not being able to track them down... until now. I thought I'd only sample 3 to begin with and the Oud seemed liked a logical place to start. The quality hits you instantly but it's not quite what I was expecting. I was maybe thinking it would be another in a long line of linear Oud/Rose combo's or it would be a princely shower of oud/saffron and resin but it's neither. I mean that in a good way, Indonesian Oud is a uniquely sharp take on Oud and the wood aroma itself has a different quality to lots of Oud fragrances you will smell and that's refreshing to me. It's not wholly unfamiliar just has a signature quality which makes it worth the mention of where it originates. I'm no expert but those Indonesians have got some good Oud! The opening is bergamot then the sharpness continues as the spicy wood develops, strong and medicinal. There's a slight hint of patchouli and even less rose in here which is great and adds to the scents individual character. I like it and it works to my taste but nothing blind blowing here, the quality and longevity etc is as good as any niche Oud and justifies the high price. The bottles are really great too and have the same style magnetic stoppers found on the Dior La collection Privee bottles. Solid first outing for me with Pricey Zegna's.
Just a quick update to my review below from a while back. I still think this is a very decent fragrance the opening is very sharp and almost to the point of AdP colonia Oud but much less extreme and far far more wearable. Also this completely morphs during the drydown into a gorgeously spiced, woody Oud which is almost a bit 'off' compared to that opening but I find it a welcome relief. These are a good collection of fragrances...this range covers nearly all bases with 5 very good quality juices.
So yeah! Fracas is the ultimate tuberose queen/bombshell/take no prisoners. I love her for that but at the same time it makes it a bit harder to pull her off. If you ain't got the balls, she's gonna drag you around like there's no tomorrow. But on the days you crave her, and the stars align, she's just right. She is also the ultimate femme fatale fragrance. This is the reason that I feel guys with the right attitude can pull her off as well. When I do wear her, all I get is compliments and filthy looks. Grrr!!!! On my skin it opens up with a powdery violet/iris combo that turns into the creamiest most bubblegumy tuberose gardenia combo. No fooling around, nothing artificial, Fracas goes straight to the point. She knows what she's got and she ain't afraid to show it. The tuberose gardenia combo steals the show for me, and the orange blossom just shows at times to sweeten things up a bit. Some spicy carnation stirs thing up a bit along with geranium, but again the white floral part takes over. And I just swoon in its lush erotic creaminess! I have the eau de parfum, I get monster sillage for the first couple of hours, that quiets down a bit after that and 24 hour longevity, with a musky animalic drydown with just a hint of oakmoss. The parfum stays closer to the skin and feels more animalic up front, less powdery and more sweet. Both versions are incredible, and while the eau de parfum lacks the animalicness of the parfum until the late drydown, it doesn't feel weaker or cheaper. Just a bit louder, which you gotta admit: it's Fracas, she's earned it! Bottom line, amazing perfume, amazing quality, amazing perfumer. The reference tuberose to end all, Cellier has some masterpieces that are hard to beat, unimaginable in today's industry; which brand has the balls to launch this mother f****r today? Amazing on the right woman, and even more so on the right guy at the right time. Just go light on the trigger, she's a powerful one!
Wowee!!! At long last a Le Labo fragrance that genuinely floored me! The opening is one of ylang and iris but as it settles the iris combines with a very powdery violet note making for a gorgeously deep, floral sweetness. There's quite a bit of patchouli in here too but it's not thick or dirty at all. The base of musk provides an animal quality which sets it off beautifully. To be perfectly honest my only issue with this and other Le Labo fragrances is the name. I know, I know the name just means it's built around an accord of Iris but really this should be called VIOLET 39...no problem if you're a fan of violets and luckily I am. I love it...smells stunning and I like to think I know my violets this is a treat a little reminiscent of Violetta from Penhaligon's but more complex and natural. Update: lasts for ages this one and the dry down turns to a sumptuous warm civet that's really nice.
Odd odd stuff yet again from Etat Libre d'Orange but quite lovely and very palatable indeed. The opening is a very sweet and complex explosion of notes, the iris and popcorn being prominent with a slightly metallic flint type gunpowder note...it really is there. Recent release Valentino uomo is quite similar but creamier and nuttier maybe not quite as complex. I love La fin du monde it's a tasty, sexy gourmand fragrance...sniff it out people it's good! Update 23/02/2022 Some years after the above comments and I've actually purchased a bottle of this based upon my memory of impressions back then. Looking at this review it's quite luke warm, and I'm a bit the same about it now. The comparison to Valentino Uomo is interesting to look back at and still valid. It's a kind of perfume that wants to be sweet but is ever being pulled back into the realms of savoury nuttiness by pyrazines or something? I still get that flinty, spark from it. Interesting perfume, but another tongue in cheek oddity from ELDO, the Charlie Hebdo of fragrance brands.
When I said I wasn't tempted to try any other summer 2014 versions of fragrances in my 212 Surf review, that wasn't strictly true... I was draw to this one as well. L'eau d'Issey flankers have always been a bit disappointing in my opinion but last years summer edition was nice, good job they've stuck it in a new bottle and put it out again for 2014. I never reviewed it last year (I don't think?) because I only tried once in store and in fairness I don't have the two to do a comparison but from memory this is exactly the same. I don't think there's anything wrong with doing that either, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I like the way this fragrance has that watery, aquatic nature without resorting to any salty sea accord fakery. It's straight up juicy kiwi and cucumber fresh with yuzu and a greenness of vetiver, hint of nutmeg maybe(?) not a great deal of spice but an accomplished summer juice nontheless. Summer is lighter and has the signature of the original which can only be a good and winning formula in my book. strength? Not gonna project much after the first hour or so and longevity is okay. Update: So my review above is based on what I thought on first impression well that has changed somewhat. No denying the top notes are beautiful and refreshing but then that salty seaweed accord starts nagging away at me. I mention above that this has the aquatic nature without the fakery, not strictly true as obviously the original L'eau D'Issey was built around that Calone aroma chemical and so are the flankers. The original doesn't bother me in fact I have worn and loved it for years but this summer version once it passes the juicy top note faze can become a tedious aquatic but no where near as bad as some.
Wow! Let me just start by saying I was not attracted to try any other summer 2014 fragrance except this one. Carolina Herrera generally has a good repertoire of masculine fragrances and this one looked good. The reason it looked so good and I was so drawn to it? The bottle! I mean just look at it...what a fantastic bottle it looks amazing, and even better in real Life. That's where the praise for this fragrance ends... abruptly! The juice inside is nothing short of disgusting...an absolute disgrace! Like they took that synthetic aquatic element found in many new releases such as Eros and more famously perhaps Paco's Invictus and brought that to the forefront. At least those two counterparts have some redeeming features in the shape of vaguely pleasant surrounding notes, 212 Surf sadly doesn't. I'm not exaggerating here it is really awful, sharp, cheap, so far from anything natural smelling it beggars belief! It's like the worst hairspray mixed with ammonia and bug spray! There's an ant and wasp killer product (in the UK and possibly elsewhere??) called 'Deathlac' this smells like that. Another question....Why do fragrances that have this bad smell to them also have such amazing longevity? 212 Surf has ridiculous strength and longevity while being totally devoid of quality. The same is true of Invictus which I honestly liked at first but this 'deathlac' thing just became unbearable as I wore it more. Folks if you trust my reviews by now...swerve this one!
I have to start by saying that Ubar is the most expensive fragrance I own. After draining a couple of large decants I knew I had to have it. The thing is I can barely detect the notes. It's so well blended and crafted that it just smells... amazing! I get a lemony feel which I'm guessing is the bergamot and Lilly of the valley, followed by rose. This I most definitely get! Big, bold, beefy and jammy like no other rose I've smelt before even though it's not listed! It just takes my breath away. The skankyness I get it's probably due to the indoles in jasmine, or maybe civet. It's not listed, but it's animalic growl is unmistakeable and I'm pretty sure it's in the basenotes. Ubar evokes places, far away exotic lands, where kings and queens live in the most extravagant luxury. It smells rich but not in the sense of money. It's the richness of using the best ingredients to create a piece of art. It smells vintage in the best possible way. Nothing sugary or fruity here thank god! Too bad they don't make 'em like this anymore. It could have been created in the 20s as far as I can tell and it wouldn't feel out of place. I don't find it particularly unisex, though skin chemistry is a weird little thing! I'm guessing that the rich floral and musky woody base would work amazingly on the right guy as long as he doesn't assign labels to perfume. I know I don't. Ubar is one of the richest floral fragrances I own but at the same time is not heavy. Sillage is massive but airy, like a fluffy cloud surrounding you without screaming. Real ladies don't shout! Longevity around forever on my skin. Bottom line, I love it. I get the deepest, richest rose, an animalic growl on a bed of sweet sandalwood, and the best sillage in town. What more can I ask?! One of the best fragrances from Amouage and one of the finest I own. Recommended to all!
Big white opulent oriental floral! Like they don’t make ‘em anymore. Like even Amouage doesn’t make ‘em anymore with their new direction. 2009 edp review. Non magnetic cap. Ubar, just like the lost city, it’s a lost jewel. I have no idea if they’re still making it and if they do, if someone is buying it. But Ubar is a wonderful big perfume in the opulent style of Boucheron, Ysatis, Gala… Dramatic white florals that merge in a spicy base rich in resins and incense, with just a whiff of yellow florals that add a naughtiness to the scent. There’s a slightly acidic touch of civet, that keeps getting bigger as the scent wears, and only adds more dimension to the rich jasmine, ylang, tuberose and orange blossom, making them even more narcotic. So rich and buttery that they become unctuous. The merging or spices, resins, incense tears and sandalwood brings it on par with vintage gems, and although not a chypre, it smells very similar to Patou’s magnificent 1000. This could be its Arabian sibling, dousing 1000’s chypre beauty with lashings of smoke and secrets. A tale of two cities, a tale of 1001 nights. Ubar is stunning! It smells rich in a way others don’t. It stands out from Amouage’s lineup, and feels absolutely cut from the same cloth that the original Jubilation 25 and Gold are. It has that same opulence, that same potency and sillage that never winds down, but adds a more discernible animalic base that brings it just a tad close to making the above 2 blush. It skips the fresh top notes, (other that brief lemony glimpses of the litsea cubeba) and brings it right on. You really should be into big and bold dramatic 80’s stunners to fully enjoy it. It’s got an old money feel to it, and it kicks the new nouveau riche lines out of the water without dropping a sweat. And I love it all the more for it!
Wow! This certainly shares a similarity with Elixir but is also quite different. Wonderful juicy opening but not quite as warm as Elixir and woodier which I have to say I think I prefer. Cedar and fir is apparent also something slightly floral in eau too and with a hint of peppery spice, its fresh and long lasting...I can't fault it. I gushed about Elixir but to be honest after wearing it, I'd prefer it on a woman, this however needs another try to be sure but I'm absolutely enjoyed the experience yet again!
I've been used to disappointment from the myriad 'L'eau...' flankers available and expected this to be much the same. To my surprise L'eau bleu d'Issey eau fraiche is a wonderfully fresh and strangely intriguing fragrance. Very, very prominent mint, usually not a note I care for especially when so dominant in the mix but this is truly an exception for me. The general vibe is watery but not aquatic more like sliced cucumber or something? It's a fresh citrus opening which compliments the minty and herbal element of rosemary which is definitely there too. The base is musk I can't say I got any patchouli. My girlfriend thought it smelled like tobacco...(I know bless her!!!) but I forgive her for not having the delicately nuanced sniffing abilities of a true frag head. Strangely I sort of got where she was coming from it does have a smell kinda similar to the inside of a fresh packet of menthol cigarettes, but that's more mint and paper than tobacco. This might be why people are getting a weird plastic smelling quality to it, L'eau bleu d'Issey eau fraiche is quite unusual but I like it.
Aromatic fougere is how this fragrance is described and that's perfect really. What I like about this is the use of magnolia in what is a masculine fragrance. Not a typical use of magnolia and not really like any magnolia note I've ever smelled to me this smells sweeter a bit more like jasmine. It's elegant and delicate a mix of nutmeg, sandalwood and musk, Eccelso is another no brainer for me...I love it! I think there's a hint of vanilla in here...definitely, it's sweetening things up. The dry down is long and just an absolute pleasure.
Something about cedar and vanilla together which seems not to work for me in the context of such a stripped back fragrance. It has a hint of tonka bean and amber too, its a sweet, warm fragrance...I like it but I'm not mad about it.
Linear is exactly what these Kiehl's fragrances are you get pretty much exactly what you're expecting but well blended and in proportion. If I'm honest I'm fairly picky about scents which contain rose or patchouli for that matter, they have to be just right. The balance here between the notes is really good opens with a hint of citrus but then the rose appears and is ultimately too feminine for me. The patchouli is quite subdued which I like but not enough to wear this one... I still rate Kiehls highly but this is not for me.
Wow!!! Amazing Kiehls really know what they're doing when it comes to stripped back simplicity and natural composition. This is a very appealing bitter sharp grapefruit note which smells wonderfully real...this is so refreshing for the summer great fragrance but might even be a little too sharp and certainly too linear for me...still great though and I may change my mind after a few wears. upadate: This is my favourite from Kiehls so fresh and really does smell like pink grapefruit this might be added to my summer arsenal!
Fig scents have become something of an inadvertent specialty of mine the past few years, I don't know what it is about the fresh greenness of fig I find so appealing...but it's become a real favourite. This kiehls scent is no exception brilliantly bright n breezy citrus and fresh green sweetness pretty good strength too for a cologne I very much enjoyed it.
Yeah I think they're just sticking to the unisex across the board approach but tipping the scales slightly toward the feminine. Depends how much a fella feels like being a princess I suppose? :)
ooooh need to try this! Rhubarb, iris and leather sounds lovely and that bottle is beyond amazing!!!! Enchanted forrest was a great complex first outing from this house but in hindsight a bit strange for me to wear, I hope Land of Warriors is better because I'd definitely want that bottle in my wardrobe.
