Magical fragrance! Yet again the Armani Prive collection has delivered a wonderful fragrance of the highest order. Sharp Labdanum opening into Frankincense, dry peppery spice and dense luscious woods, I get from this fragrance. It's a mystical incense scent of superb quality and has a unique feel with it too. Took me a couple of tries to write a review but that's no reflection on the impact Bois d'Encens made on me because it was immediate. If you love incense, and precious resins without an overly smokey vibe this is definitely for you. Longevity is a little bit of a let down and that is probably the only minor criticism I have of these Armani fragrances. The only one that has great lasting power for me is Myrrhe Imperiale, followed by Oud Royale.
Smells almost the same as eau de parfum intense. It's too musky then powdery and neither are as good as the original which is weird but my favourite of the lot for sure. Just not my cup of tea this.
Woah! I'm not the biggest fan of the original but it has a certain odd appeal due to the fact its different and conjures a brave, mysterious vibe. All too often flankers with this monicker don't cut the mustard but this is one lives up to the title 'intense' by name and by nature. The opening is a super harsh eye watering musk which is nearly choking and not something which appeals to me. I'd imagined this would be subtle in the drydown and may create some magic on my skin, akin to maybe musc ravageur(again a scent I didn't like at first) unfortunately it doesn't. Contrary to what I'd expected from an eau de parfum this doesn't last at all on my skin and the muskiness dies away almost immediately to be replaced by a vague floral powder. So what are you trying to say Houdini4? Huh? The musk was too much for you to begin with and now you're moaning it's gone? Make your mind up!!! What I'm getting at is... I complained about the musk initially sure but if it had mellowed and given a nice animal backdrop to the ghostly powdery notes of the original, I may well have loved it, instead it's a disappointment! Too musky, then nothing and no violets in this either...I don't like it.
Comparisons with Tom Ford for men are entirely justified the mandarin opening and earthy tobacco heart are very similar. However, being a huge fan and avid wearer of TF I can spot the differences just as evidently, Yuzu nutmeg and a fig like fresher opening with a creamier nature coming from sandalwood being the major ones. So all this makes it less woody than the Tom Ford in essence and an enjoyable mens fragrance. I really love it and wish I'd have picked it up when I saw it cheap last year but didn't want to blind buy in case it wasn't good. Just to speak to the 'wedding scent' thing of course Vera Wang is going to tread that line due to her association with wedding dresses. Quite an understated and classy thing to wear for a wedding in my opinion.
Sadly it is just not strong enough for me, it a beautiful sent, but just not enough ... Punch
Oh wow this is magnificent! The third fragrance I've tried from this house and it's a another absolute knockout. I bought White Leather on the spot I was so taken by it and if I had the money I may have bought this one too. My mind has been opened up to new possibilities and note combinations with these Oud fragrances and this one is a total surprise. Opens with an amazingly real and long lasting fruity, bergamot and an overwhelmingly rich amber, Oud and sweet vanilla. The saffron is and pink pepper combine to make an amazingly rich and complex scent which somehow evokes a green shimmering emerald. (Maybe that's my imagination going too far) Then amazingly the white floral neroli makes an appearance as a basenote in the long neroli/Oud/musky dry down. Odd I never noticed the neroli until after a few hours and smells totally amazing in the context of this fragrance. Brilliant fragrance! Couldn't stop smelling myself Emerald Is a powerful Oud which to me is totally unisex even though it's on here as a female fragrance. Not strictly a white floral fragrance but this is definitely the best neroli scent I've ever sniffed.
Just when you think you've experienced the entire range of violet combinations you're hit with this. I think it's safe to say I'm a big fan of violets and this is a new accord to me, understated, powdery yet wearable and utterly enjoyable. Armani have hit the spot yet again with this juice I'd say it gives me the feeling of a Violet centric juice that really doesn't have a 'usual' (whatever that is?) violet feel. What I mean is that it will intrigue violet fans like me but is different enough to appeal to people who don't traditionally like the smell of violets. It could be the combination with rose which maybe changes the character some...you definitely get the rose as it dries down. Smoothing this out is patchouli and vanilla with the darker touch of birch which does create a kind of leathery effect. I wouldn't agree that it is a smokey leather more of a smooth suede and birch has a woody undertone which makes this smell really good on me but would be equally at home on a woman and possibly better suited. A classy Violet then which I will recommend to my friend who would love this fragrance. I wouldn't wear it though, I get my violet hit from Hommage L'Homme and Fahrenheit stuff like that.
I kinda love the smell of Black XS it's sweet, fruity and densely woody with a hint of spice. The opening is sweet, sharp and quite unsettled frankly then when it does the fruitiness is really nice and a strange mixture of citrus sharpness and a strawberry note that is vaguely reminiscent of the fondant soft centres in roses/quality street chocolates. The dry spice coming from sage and a definite cardamom note. The overriding patchouli gives it a slight chocolately vibe and the rosewood base which to me makes this fruit/wood combo remind me a little of something like Thierry Mugler B*Men. I really like Black XS it's distinctive & different but I just don't think I could see myself wearing it. I've got about 5 sample vials so maybe a few more wears and I might want to add it to the collection if it grows on me sufficiently.
I don't know what it is about the winter but it also compels me to revert to these dated, manly fragrances. This one is awesome, it's a masterclass in Fougere. Paco Rabanne is herbal(rosemary,sage), fresh and a little green(lavender) and with overriding bass tones of musk and oakmoss. I really enjoy it and I can remember my dad and subsequently me, wearing it in years gone by. Long lasting and powerful this one is a real mans fragrance.
I get the Brit Rhythm comparisons but folks please this is so much more daring and deep...especially from Calvin Klein a designer who led an aquatic/unisex revolution in the 90's which many followed in terms of fragrance and campaign. Almost full circle now this is kinda en vogue because it's slightly more edgy an almost gourmand. Sweet strange ambery, tobacco Tonka thing that this is. Trialled it again today and reached the same conclusion as my original review...I like it and it's better than Brit rhythm.
I live in hope it's not too floral either and I can wear it. Hurry up and drop this one TOM!!!!!
For anyone in the UK who was looking forward to trying this soon prepare for disappointment, because you've got a bit longer to wait. I thought this would be dropping immanently but to my dismay it won't be available until September. On the bright side though apparently Tom Ford is making two new releases in a collection based around neroli Portofino as he did with the recent Oud releases.
Darker, denser, take on the original. This one and silver mountain were my initial favourites from this line and I don't think that's changed? Deep violets and a little hint of smoke set this apart but still very much set on the common clean, theme of cedar and vetiver which matures to what can only be described as 'woody notes' Average longevity all in all nice.
If I had glanced at the notes prior to testing Futur I might've thought I'd like it...boy would I have been wrong! Women can keep this one! It's like something from a bygone era and definitely not for this man. No violets, sweet jasmine or ylang ylang it's too harsh in opening to get past and had to be scrubbed. I thought I liked green scents? but this is going too far I don't get anything pleasant, sweet or fresh from it. I'll be honest breaking down the notes would be difficult as I was pretty repulsed by it. If you read my reviews generally I'm pretty upbeat even when not keen on a fragrance so I don't use the word 'repulsed' lightly. Having said that I have a habit of revisiting and changing my mind so I won't reserve judgement just yet. Still Like this house though, good quality and variety.
This is a classic and a product of it's environment namely the eighties! Shows a progression of distinct manly fragrances for me, thoroughly enjoyable and seldom seen in shops (in the UK at least) anymore. You just Know it's a classic as it has all the usual components ie: oakmoss, carnation, leather and musk. However, the opening is remarkably fresh with lemon and petitgrain followed by the spices and familiar man stuff but I think the sandalwood sets this apart from many other(lets face it)very similar fragrances from the 80's. Masculine, stylish and still relevant today.
Wow! perfect juice this one. Exactly in the style of a classic french cologne from years gone by, Cravache delivers for me. The only issue I have with this sort of fragrance is the price niche houses charge. For example I love Dior Cologne Royale but I couldn't justify the high price. That doesn't apply to this one fortunately as it's a EDT and as such reasonably affordable for sheer quality. Opens with juicy lemon and madarin orange then becomes herby but not overly mossy like Chanel pour monsieur to which it is similar. The clary sage, nutmeg and of course lavender are more prominent without over powering, Cravache is very well put together and blended. Vetiver and herbs in the drydown on my skin but not very good longevity I have to say, I was a bit stingey with the application so next time I'll use more. There's a definite hint of minty menthol in this fragrance just after applied as @LookOut mentioned...and I was surprised not to see it in the notes on my sample card or on here. All in all a great fragrance it's calming and cerebral and a good day to day scent.
Not a good effort this one from Robert Piguet. I have to say despite the vast majority of perfumes from this house not being to my taste, they at least have an inherent quality and imagination. The opening is a mixture of citrus and sage which is not prominent enough for my liking because it quickly transitions into a mixture of orange blossom and Tonka bean which is the main problem for me...they don't work together to my taste. Something in this fragrance just doesn't sit right with me either it could be (although I can't smell maybe can be percieved?) the geranium and costus??? It does have a dated feel with the oakmoss not really complementing the other notes. Maybe this should've been called... 'NOTES(that don't work!)' The drydown after about 7 hours became a musty, stale skin odour not great. As you can tell by now I really don't like this one but some might. Not a scrubber but I didn't enjoy the drydown and one of the few in the range that is perceived to be more masculine. Longevity was okay just not my bag.
This is a mellow classic, one of the softest, most understated orientals out there. I first tried it years ago and figured it was nice but too soft for me. Then I didn't really see it in many shops and forgot about it until recently that is. Opens with really nice citrus and cardamom notes then becomes a delicately sweet jasmine spiced, creamy, cinnamon. It also has something of the 'old skool' with the carnation note and drys down with woods and a slightly resiny tonka/vanilla base. I adore it and that's the EDT version I would love to try the EDP and I'm going to add it to my collection as soon as I can.
Great scent to finish off this series of reviews clean and very well done. Sharp lemony citrus opening with gin/juniper vibe and lovely fresh cedar, pretty linear and no surprises. Not the most complex even in this blue series but blue Cedrat delivers for me. I can't understand any negativity about the blue collection, they each have merit and cover a variety of bases, all of which are valid and should appeal to a mass audience.
HAD TO BUY THIS ON THE SPOT! WOW! WOW! WOW! I've had it a couple of weeks now and Bella Bellissima have created something very special and unique here. My first reaction was one of delight as this smells like the most expensive jelly beans you ever smelled in your life! If you don't like sweet fragrances this will not appeal at all but my sweet tooth was tickled pink by White leather. It's amazing, almost makes me giddy thinking about the smell the top notes are unique, wild and tropical Guava which is just unreal. Who'd have thought guava and Oud? Anyway, the opulence of Oud throughout this fragrance makes it classy and refined smelling with the creamy sweetness of vanilla making this scent almost edible. The drydown is a soft suede leather and oud but still has that tropical fruit punch in there it's a revelation. Longevity and projection are huge but I'd watch how many sprays you use and around others as it may become sickly. Stunning stuff and this one only the second scent I've tried from this house the other 'Noble Incense' (Not in the database) was fantastic too!
I've been fearful of trying Kinski for a couple of years now due to the fact that it has been touted as a heavy animal and ganja scent when in actual fact it is so much more. Sure the castoreum is strong but totally unexpectedly... I adore it! Just a quick word on Kinski himself... a very troubled and strange man indeed. While I'm a fan of his work (Mainly due to Werner Hertzog) I find alleged aspects of his personal life utterly reprehensible and although some would argue irrelevant it can't help but taint my view of this fragrance. 'Feral Sensuality' says it all really the woodiest, most complex, animal fragrance out there! First thing that hits me is a fizzy, sharp labdanum with earthy and green vetiver. It's very musky the musk is great as it never gets too overpowering in the heart of the fragrance. It does have a slight weed feel to it but speaking as somebody who smoked their fair share it doesn't resemble dank fragrant sensi buds more like a wet earthy bush. The overriding vibe in this fragrance is the smokiness and lord knows there's an abundance of it! Just smells EXACTLY like a damp bonfire it's a brave brave thing and beautifully avant garde. If you thought Encre noire was smokey and woody Kinski is next level and makes EN look reserved compared to the rawness it possesses. The drydown is resinous and pure woodsy strength...with the animal nature too but not strong or unpleasant. In conclusion Kinski is totally bonkers! I can guarantee you won't smell anything else like it and I don't think there's any danger you will in the future either. It's a complex masterpiece that I really didn't think I'd like but just goes to show you can't judge a book by it's cover and there's no accounting for taste etc... I want to have it just because it's so weird and different but I have no idea when I'd wear it?
Marc Jacobs Men is soft, sweet and taps into something in me which I can't help but love. I like to think I'm into manly, dark, woody, peppery, spicy, incense etc... fragrances but give me something soft and playful like this and I revert to being a small child craving the sweet and comforting. Opening with a lovely fruity citrus and cardamom I was happy enough but then it reveals a fig based fragrance which is sweet and creamy probably due to the combination with Tonka bean. Fig is one of my favourite notes it would seem and I'd go as far as to say this is one of the best fig scents for men. (although it's very unisex) I have Fico di amalfi (soft, citrus fig) and love Philosykos (stark, green fig) but I don't think this is all that similar aside from it having fig as the centre piece. It's soft Like Fico but has a creamy coconut accord and gentle woods which set it apart in my opinion. Longevity is okay but not great and it doesn't really project all that much but smells great and the bottle is cool!
Yes!!! This fragrance is great. At long last something new and brave in the designer realm. In a week where Burberry Brit Rhythm has been being pushed to death by sales assistants this new release is a welcome relief. When I received a sample of Valentino Uomo the other day I wasn't holding out much hope of it being any good and was pleasantly suprised. More than just a gourmand this fragrance has depth, opening with an amazing fresh bergamot that lasts quite a while which is then joined by a creamy dark vanilla/patchouli type vibe. Then one of the clearest coffee notes I've ever smelled although it doesn't last long until becoming like an sweet creamy almond in the drydown but still surrounded by other dark notes like even a slight liqourice. It reminds me of a few fragrances Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin, AdP Mandorlo di sicilia, and Dior Eau noire. Oh just to speak to the Dior Homme vibe...it's definitely there! I distinctly smelled 'Lipstick' at one point which in and of itself was not like DH but the 'make up' smell is an obvious association. What an achievement this is after all that sensational gourmand type stuff and fresh italian Adp style citrus comes a sumptuous leather drydown which is creamy and a bit buttery/nutty...amazing! Longevity is excellent, projection is moderate but I think that's a good thing as it could get too much for some after a while. The bottle is pretty ridiculous in my opinion but I'll say this ...it's flamboyant and unique especially for a mans wardrobe. Valentino Uomo is full of surprises and restores my faith in trying to sniff everything new that comes out in the hopes it will be a gem.
Mippymuppett's review below is spot on, although I thought it was curious that Sheldrake is not mentioned as the perfumer here even though I just assumed it was his creation. It's true though even my favourite musicians/bands have made bad albums from time to time, if you have a such strong body of work it's hard to live up to that. This is fruity, floral, and pleasantly feminine scent although I was expecting something that smelled like plastic which would've been super brave if not my cup of tea.
Yeah I echo the reviews below really, Un bois vanille is one sweet fragrance! It has a depth though which I find very interesting and keeps it from being just another quality, niche vanilla. Christopher Sheldrake is a genius at putting complementary notes together and what a list in here surrounding vanilla with coconut and almond. The licorice plays an important role of keeping the sweetness at bay. A well balanced vanilla and yet another great fragrance from Serge Lutens.
