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Strangers Parfumerie So Fetch!

Strangers Parfumerie

Just to note that I've only tested this on my arm a couple of times and that was a few months ago. It could be a completely different story when I wear it properly...an I suspect it will be. I will be sure to update this review. So....So Fetch. Immediately smiled when I saw the name knowing Prin's penchant for referencing movies/characters etc. I surprisingly enjoyed Mean Girls when it came out, my friend used to make me a monthly torrent dump, a kind of movie zeitgeist, condensing all the good stuff and I was like 'Mean Girls? isn't than some girly teen movie?' but then watching it I was like, this is quite charming. A real guilty pleasure though and our little secret so as not to shatter the illusion of my butch persona. Anyway.... This perfume is exactly what you'd expect from Regina George and crew (although she hated 'Fetch') it's pink and girly and all that shit. I like the way he's listed a protein bar accord, that's a detailed nod to fans. but generally it's a huge cherry note and not even dark but reminiscent of glacier cherries, maraschino cherries, complete with the syrupy, almost boozy, almond amaretto kick. This has a biscuit like gourmand quality when dried down more like amaretti buscuits and cherry bakewells complete with icing and a growing vanilla silkiness which eventually envelops the whole thing in the drydown. I mean this fragrance is ridiculous from start to finish, listen to how sweet and awful that sounds... a tacky syrupy cherry note, creamy almonds and vanilla with booze? That sounds like a perfume that might appeal momentarily but would cloy after a few seconds rather than minutes or hours....but it doesn't. I've no idea what Prin does or how he does it but his approach renders nightmarish, olfactory combinations like this a success and somehow with a naturalism that speaks to his talent as a perfumer. You clearly have to like sweetness and cherries etc... and allow me to reiterate I'VE NOT WORN IT PROPER YET, but I thought this was a winner.

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Strangers Parfumerie Cigar Rum Intense

Cigar Rum Intense

Strangers Parfumerie

So I'm wearing Cigar rum intense today and I have to say that I'm not as impressed as I was when I first smelled it a few months back. My history with the original was that I liked it but I didn't see what the big fuss was about? people comparing it to Turkish leather and other triumphant Prin Lomros creations. It's aiiiight. I always felt it was a little thin and transparent for what was supposed to be a rich tobacco and rum fragrance. Cigar Rum intense sees to have rectified those concerns in the opening with a gorgeous cinnamon warmth and a hint of coffee, which completes the Havana effect. The dried fruit and raisin smell in this perfume is lovely, I'm not going to lie. It's like raisins seeped in rum and not in a rum n raisin Ice cream, tacky, essence sort of way, this smells authentic and natural. There's a smooth perfume element to it, naturally boozy and leathery but crucially I don't get the bitterness and girth of tobacco, that aspect is very tame and subdued for me. I really like this perfume, don't get me wrong, there's much to enjoy and it has a certain creative flair and uniqueness but I just feel it's not quite what I want, not lacking in anyway, but I'm not going to buy a bottle, despite being wowed by the opening. It's lasting really well so far and projecting a small cloud but it's not a big clout of a thing.

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Penhaligon's The Blazing Mr Sam

The Blazing Mr Sam

Well, I didn't write a review of Sam when it came out, but I was given a couple of samples which I wore one and then the other leaked. Probably because of Penhaligon's policy of having their staff fill the sample vials, which is both good and bad. Anyhow, my first memories of this are as a fruity, sweet but long lasting top note which merges into a synthetic woody amber heart, which again opens very nice, like a plum infused, spicebomb type of slightly kitsch oriental. Then it starts to get on my nerves, and that's not a good sign seeming to cling and project with irritatingly, clingy tenacity. However, if it was on par with the decisive projection and longevity of Halfeti, This would be a scrubber for me. However it peters out to a pootling, splutter of mildly pleasant woody aroma chemicals, without any of that purple plummy attitude of the first hour or two. I don't hate it and I actually did a direct comparison with Halfeti, smell wise they are chalk and cheese to me but approach and the fact they are variants on the same theme, I can absolutely see why many people would perceive similarities...architecturally speaking.

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Tom Ford Beau de Jour Eau de Parfum

Beau de Jour Eau de Parfum

A masterstroke by Tom Ford to release this into the signature line, and they waited what seems like no time at all (but was probably like two years or something?) to do it. Following in the footsteps of the brilliant Ombre Leather is a positive step, effectively giving back to the fans if you like so you'll hear no complaints from me. It does make you wonder why they didn't just release it in this format straight away? Anyway, glad they have. I liked Beau de Jour in the Private blend, but it got slightly lost being last in a trio of fougere's released in a row. Don't me wrong it was the best of those but still. I recall the PB being a stark, diffusive, powdery exchange between bergamot, lavender and geranium akin to a Rive Gauche (although I didn't think it smelled that much of it) or YSL Jazz or something but with warm fougere traits in the base. This iteration however seems (I might be remembering wrong) to have much more gusto and a heavy patchouli note from the start, immediately evoking Houbigant's Fougere Royale. It's a strange rubberiness, permeating the fresh, powdered barbershop vibes that give it a bit more oomph and a sort of dirtier quality to what is a soapy clean affair for the most part. Having said that I could instantly tell it apart from Fougere Royale because Beau de Jour has a much more modern leaning disposition generally. Sure it has the classic warmth and coumarin and as we've established the patchouli note so prominent in both these releases, but develops and behaves differently on my skin. The issue I have with this is that the opening is great and I can enjoy the beginings of many fragrances but sadly they start to take a nosedive...pun intended. :) This wains heavy on me, I'm still interested by it but even my missus said it was too strong and was irritating to her...and I have to agree, it was getting on my nerves for a period. It reaches a sweet spot though after about two hours when everything rounds out (not that it isn't fantastically well put together from the off) the warmth of that base starts to chime sweetly and all those manly, but sophisticated, shaving vibes come to the fore. I think Tom Ford and his perfumer/s have really put a lot into this fragrance, I just have a hunch from the name and the fact that masculine aromatic fougere's suddenly became a base they wanted to cover comprehensively all culminating in the king of Fougere's if you like? This is the result and I have to say it's a supreme effort and despite comparisions to loads of other stuff that inevitably comes with the territory...I would still buy Beau de Jour and I own Fougere Royale, Zino Davidoff, Rive Gauche...etc etc... If that's not enough of a sign that they've brought something fresh to the genre,I don't know what is?

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Penhaligon's Halfeti

Wow Shocking! Not the fragrance the fact that I haven't ever written a review of Halfeti. For those that don't know Halfeti outsells every other Penhaligon's release combined by some margin too, people go F'in mad for the stuff! There's something magnetic and addictive about the stuff. I agree with my pal Cortland in a sense too that this is quite a synthetic (well he said cheap) smelling fragrance and certainly not the authentic Oud experience. However it has the same feeling I get from another futuristic and hyper clean, airy neo-oud oriental in the shape of Geza Schoen's Niwab of Oud. I'm in no way suggesting they smell similar BTW I prefer the OJ to this but I actually love this as well. It has an opulent, musky lightness touches of rose and saffron but not in huge amounts, and although light, does have a heft in terms of lasting power and a powdery, leathery opulence and some sting in the tail too. It's a bomb of woody amber aroma chemicals, I can smell them and I don't care. There's a smooth transition in how they are presented. I revisited Mr Sam on the same day and sprayed on the other hand and they do indeed share this modern, synthetic woody, amber sharpness however I find the plummy top of Mr Sam to be irritating after the first few seconds of 'mmmm...that's nice.' Halfeti is much more beguiling and harder to reach, I'm not sure why I love it so? Many people have clearly been hooked by this scent too, returning to I, I feel a certain way about it. I have Levantium which to me is much more authentic and naturalistic smelling to me, clearly more rosey too but I get why I had this as a love and a 'want it' when returning to this page after not trying this since probably it's release...whenever that was now?

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Lacoste Fragrances Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Pour Elle French Panache

Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Pour Elle French Panache

Lacoste Fragrances

Not perfume this really. A mashup of fruit cocktail nonsense, floating in a cassis base syrup. It's insufferably fruity, I mean really. Then actually does become perfume, drying down much more like a hyper generic floral amalgam of gingham dress clad little girl complete with pigtails. This is not a grown up perfume for a sophisticated woman it's a throwaway piece of fruity musk fluff. I'm no connoisseur of women's designer fragrances so take what I said or leave it.

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Lacoste Fragrances Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Pour Lui French Panache

Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Pour Lui French Panache

Lacoste Fragrances

Strange that sniffing the sprayer of this I was instantly reminded of the fantastic (and ONLY good Lacoste fragrance) Eau de Lacoste Blanc which I thought this was merely a repackaged version of...but it isn't. This is generic and boring, lacklustre and all the mediocre, mundane labels you could slap on it. For all that I think it's okay, at best it's a slightly less inventive version of Davidoff Horizon or something? Has this ginger twang to the citrus which works very well over a plethora of dry modern woody amber. It's meh, but not unpleasant meh.

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Sultan Pasha Attars Pure Incense

Sultan Pasha Attars

Stunning opening, quickly becomes a little too much. Don't get me wrong I'm a BIG incense fan but context is everything and this fragrance smells of heavy olibanum (not much of the fresh, lemony uplift and fizz it can have.) Myrrh which smells divine but starts to cloy on me like caramel or toffee or something after a short time. Then drying down more to the fantastic labdanum, which is my favourite material but too much of a good thing is definitely the phenomena going on here. I love the smell of these resins, don't get it twisted I'd just rather see this incense accord in a perfume composition but I also know who difficult it is to balance. I'm conflicted about such a potent resinous attar and whether I'd wear it.

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Sultan Pasha Attars L'Éphémère

Sultan Pasha Attars

This mainly smells of a stunning rose absolute or otto, but working with these materials as I have I can say how difficult it is to make a rounded scent when you put such a prominent focus on a wonderful rose material. There's a hint of more powdery sweet florals, like gernaium with a dialled minty element and touches of violets. I get some sweetness there and I know there's a great base holding this rose down but I can't really smell what's in it, perhaps that speaks to the smoothness of the blend.

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Sultan Pasha Attars Oud Douce Amère

Oud Douce Amère

Sultan Pasha Attars

Darker, woody oud, with complexity, spices and an animalic subtlety in the drydown, it's lovely but lacks the brightness and clarity of florals and such in some of the others. I still adore the smell though.

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Sultan Pasha Attars L’Heure D’Or

L’Heure D’Or

Sultan Pasha Attars

Complete and total KO! Wow! Just Wow! Opens like a bright but herbal, white floral, all the while backed by a heavy woody, animalic breath of ambergris. It smells more like the herbal, cumin, sweaty bite of civet replacement rather than real civet which is more cheesy and oud like, but I could be wrong? Whatever the combination of animalic elements they are exquisitely judged because you can still smell the citrus and aromatic & lactonic creamy florals, perhaps some andalwood materials too long into the drydown. I get that this is totally masculine but not at all heavy handed. Love it!

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Sultan Pasha Attars Âme Sombre Grade 1

Âme Sombre Grade 1

Sultan Pasha Attars

This is back to what I consider more traditional attar business in the shape of a very acomplished fragrance with nice oud pungency right out of the gate, but it's immediately mellowed and clearly not supposed to dominate the composition. What does is the fizz of frankinsence, a syrupy amber and a beewax/honied, sweet rose and more than a twang of saffron. It's gorgeous let's face it, gets even nicer too as it dries down. I'm not taking nothing away from the composition but it's lots of opulent things, chiming in to give an experience that is satisfying but not highly original. Frankly who cares, all these materials are the finest in the world, coming together to make something special and Pasha's track record for making some of the most innovative and original oils out there, packing in tonnes of complexity, is well documented. This path is more trodden but he still does it with a huge dose of panache. I love it.

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Sultan Pasha Attars Jardin de Borneo Gardenia

Jardin de Borneo Gardenia

Sultan Pasha Attars

FFS Mr Eleven...are you ever happy?? Performance is not everything mate. How you can be soooo disappointed by these attars is a mystery... ??? It's rare that my jaw drops at a fragrance these days, being even more of a wizened, jaded, old curmudgeon than Mr Eleven here lol. But this is a fragrance on the highest rung of the elite. I didn't even know I loved gardenia this much? It's sublime. The earth moved for me smelling it right out of the gate, super complex mixture of divine fruits and leathery florals, giving a touch of the iris from iris soir but a way nicer for my nose. Textured, beautiful nearly edible, but not sweet as such, getting creamier but with a mild earthy, smoke to it, I think it's fantastic, despite opening strong I'd say it's not quite as potent as one might want for the big money and I like the opening more than the drydown but still this is nickpicking. Just revel in it though because it's absolutely stunning and had a profound effect on me.

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Essential Parfums The Musc

Essential Parfums

'Don't think! Feeeeeel.' Bruce Lee My oh my...I adore this perfume. It's magic. This was sent to me by a wonderfully fragrant pal on the other side of the world, and bless her soul because she was so right. I do love it! It fooled me to begin with though, the vial in the package had leaked slightly and when I got it I thought it smelled of, cheap, fresh laundry, the kind of white musk you get given free with a rollerball when I've bought Oud in the past. This...takes a minute to register and comprehend but when it does....sweet jesus, it's majestic. It opens with a very light hint of rose, and then proceeds to take you on a musky journey into one of the smoothest, yet most complex musk accords I can recall, moving through light and clean, cotton like into more javanol and synth sandalwood to the sweetness and warmth of ambrette seeds, it's just a lovely thing to behold and smells different close up to at a distance. Natural, yet like my favourite synthetic musks, so what if it smells of galaxolide? It’s lovely. I can get a very slightly, traditional perfume element of lavender but it's not even a 'note' as such more of an ethereal, spectre. Then there's the warmth and richly resinous feel of the beeswax listed in the notes and again, it doesn't even have a 'note' of beeswax just a faint orgainic honied warmth a delicate vignette so carefully sown into the fabric of the musk accord in this. This is truly a perfume that smells of all things and one and it's a gift that keeps on giving in the drydown. Less is more here, attention to detail is key in fragrances like this. Where I once may have dismissed stuff like this as 'pleasant' and 'pretty' perfumery not really innovating or moving things on creatively, cringing at myself in hindsight for completely missing the point. Like Bruce Lee once said (yes I'm evoking the great Mr Lee to describe a soft musky perfume, what of it?) 'It is like a finger pointing away to the moon, don't concentrate on the finger or you miss all the heavenly glory.' A good lesson for life in many ways. Big thanks to my Kiwi pal Elyse for the sample you're a dimond luv, and also an enabler because I want a bottle of this now!

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Sultan Pasha Attars Étude en Fougère

Étude en Fougère

Sultan Pasha Attars

This feels quite similar to the last fougere but with crucial differences being the warmth is instantly there, and there seems to be slightly less complexity to this. More of a detectable nutmeg note and the usual bergamot, lemon, and elemi, toned down pine and moss, but a little more, classicly men's fougere about this, drying down to a not so hypergreen fragrance but more of a leathery, aftershave full of eighties vibe and perhaps more moss chiming as it settles down. It's nice.

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Sultan Pasha Attars Fougère Noire

Sultan Pasha Attars

Wow! Again Sultan just keeps giving these looks and it's a treat for perfume fans because he clearly blends with such skill and Passion. I don't really feel as though I have to blow smoke up the guys arse but not one of these attars is dominant in a single note, no matter how individually complex that note might be? That is rare in the world of these oils, to be so prolific at mixing elements and not getting mud or unfocused fragrances. These all have a brightness and clarity. So this is a fougere opening with a green lemon and lime citrus sparkling with elemi and pine. The general feeling is as green as the attar itself and gives an instant transportation back to childhood. I'm not sure if it's mine or a past life or a fantasy? but it feels like something I experienced whether waking or in a dreamstate. Strangely clean and mountain air like, the technicolour of the hills and mountain tops in a sound of music, but with a soapy forest floor, and mossy bark with fresh fungus peeking out...giving an almost psychotropic effect. The oakmoss element is there but not as strong as I thought it might be, but again that speaks to the blend of many materials coming together. Is there coumarin or tonka warmth there? That's what you have to ask with a fougere, or does it replace that sweet warmth with something else and I'd say this likely does but it's not as perceivable, although drying down to a lovely warm scent on skin with the most delicate barely there coffee note. I think it's fantastic and one of a few fougere's Sultan has in his collection some of which use less expensive materials.

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Sultan Pasha Attars Moonlit Reverie

Moonlit Reverie

Sultan Pasha Attars

Wow! This is stunning, instantly arresting floral explosion, with that nightblooming vibe completely inkeeping with the name. Although it's clearly not orange blossom dominant, I can smell it in the opening clear as a bell. It's always surrounded by a rich gardenia/tuberose which builds and builds on my skin and is just the right side of the inside of banana peels and bubblegum. If this was bubblegum it would be the most exotic, all natural bubblegum from Fortnum & Mason or something? It's COMPLETELY not my scene and still I find it unbelievably beautiful... like it's stunning, it really is. When dried down I get the vibe as if it was the remnants of a honied, floral perfume on a well worn jacket complete with stale cigarette smoke...my kinda gal! and an almost aquatic Ozone, maybe a touch of chlorinated pool, but only a waft of the gases in the air surrounding the fragrant, white floral goddess. So to recap this goddess is a rebellious, rocky, lifeguard, in a leather jacket, smoking tabs, blowing bubbles with expensive gum, drinking a North African Orange Blossom cocktail and eating a banana, while wearing bandit or something? It's a KO. Simply must be tried.

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Versace Versace Pour Femme Dylan Blue

Versace Pour Femme Dylan Blue

A while back, I was strangely attracted to this from a distance among some more fancy niche perfumes and just assumed it was one of those by the striking bottle. However, I was instantly repelled by the fact that it was Dylan Blue for women, due to the utter apathy caused by the men's iteration of this line. It's not 'bad' as such just a crystallisation of everything that's unimaginatively dull about designer fragrances. Anyway, Fragrantica wardrobe stalking is a real phenomena, and something I budded 'socially acceptable fragrance stalking' on a recent forum discussion. Anyway I was looking at one profile in particular littered with vintage Guerlain's and a who's who of pivotal and great niche and indy stuff and nestled among that this gleaming flacon, so I thought I'd best actually try it. That flacon for a start, looks great and really stands out although it does also resemble an urn. I was half expecting to me reprimanded when trying to spritz, then some poor unfortunate sods ashes to come spilling out! Not so...just perfume and hyper feminised perfume at that. I'm open t florals to some extent and from a DIY perfumers perspective I have to try to see the merit or technique behind everything, regardless of whether I'd want to wear it or not. So that being said I actually felt at first bombared by fruity melons and cassis, white flowers, and hyperclean, powder. It's a modern aroma chemical powder, not a soft resin or alluring musk powder either, kinda fresh and bright. I often describe things like this as having a rose hip note, when they don't but it's actually listed in the notes here so I feel vindicated. As it settles to me its a jasmine/muguet tinged with a hint of greens and a slight moistness and nothing more exciting than that. Got better in the drydown but to be honest I showered and went to bed without taking much notice of development. However, I did note that there was a really waxy, slightly unpleasant, hand cream that combo of white florals and an aquatic calone sort of note remaining on my clothes the next day, but ONLY at a distance. When you put your nose in for a proper sniff the remnant completely changes (like 180) and is actually a very pleasant jasmine, which is much more rounded now and even has a mild idolic quality but still with that fresh and clean base/mid hum, but more lived in and a bit warmer. Now I've dedicated quite a lot of time to talking about a scent which really doesn't bring a great deal of anything new to the table but if you like this vibe and want something which I ultimately think is executed quite well and that lasts, then Dylan Blue is a viable option.

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Phaedon Bapteme Ambre

This is a superb fragrance with a bold spicy, tolu/cinnamon opening giving way to an almost light and translucent amber accord which feels a little underwhelming....at first that is. However Bapteme is a creeping, stealthy little amber, building all the while to a crescendo of near full on sticky, amber immersion. It doesn't quite go heavy gourmand (cacao of benzoin) too vanillic or incense heavy a la TF AA (Labdanum dominant) nor does it go full dusty old book/library on you either. This is a middling amber combining a balance of these and another type the more airy, natural breath of ambergirs complete with a light saltiness. This also has a very subtle (but ever present) touch of rose and geranium to complete the whole Ambre Nuit asociation I also get from this perfume. The overall quality reminds me also of Profumum roma Aurea and Fiori but this is just lacking slightly on the longevity and overall presence to push it into the realm of elite ambers. What is does have going for it is that it's very well priced at £110 for 100ml and I'm fixated on performance so I can over look that in any case, just figured it was worth mentioning for those that do. A strong outing then from Phaedon in my humble opinion well worth checking out. :)

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Fragonard Coeur de Soleil

Coeur de Soleil

Respectfully to the last post I have to disagree. It's not hard to dislike. After sampling the new and from memory, slightly butchered (certainly the bottle has been) version of Grain de Soleil this stuff immediately struck me as something with a bright, light opening. The blackcurrant, cassis note is sharp and smells pretty much like the cassis base used in many perfumes and often paired with rose. Here this smells like something that should be scenting a home in a reed diffuser or being sprayed from a budget aerosol can. I hate to be so reductive about a prestigious Grasse institution like Fragonard because I generally like everything I've ever tried but this didn't grab me. Does have a base and an interesting transition in the base, completely changing into a more recognisable and woody sort of perfume. (rather than air freshener) I don't want to hate on it because I found it weirdly impressive but not wearable for me.

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Sultan Pasha Attars Equilibre

Sultan Pasha Attars

Orange and oud. This is a strong opening of both and bergamot (which for me is essential in any citrus opening even if it's more orange centric) very interesting as I've been playing around with something similar myself, and did think that oud could really work. Whata ya know? Pasha has done it and it does. The animalic cheese of oud is shortlived in the opening but the orange/mandarin element sticks around while the resinous, woody nature comes out. Also there's an waxy orange blossom element, I'd be fascinated to know if he bolstered his Orange flower absolute with an orange blossom accord built from synthetics? It feels like that, again mirroring my own efforts. The drydown has a margainally chocolatey amber likley from the Benzoin which does have that vanilla/cacao nuance to it...again working with orange well. This is really nice and original, the elements not too complex but having their own level of inherent complexity keeping the whole thing intriguing throughout. God bless Oud.

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Sultan Pasha Attars Thebes Grade 1

Sultan Pasha Attars

Taking a step back from this one. I found the opening almost fougere green in a funny way. I'm not sure what is going on with this one? It's odd. More of the iris/orris dominance but it's very wet, and herbal. Strange as when you smell the headspace of this attar from the bottle (or sample vial in my case) it's incredibly sweet and amazingly lush, yet quickly on skin it's dry and unnerving to me. Not dissimilar to irisoir but enough for me to have a preference for that one.

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Sultan Pasha Attars Nuit Persane

Sultan Pasha Attars

Not usually a beewax fan (or honey really?) but I was converted by Slowdive last year. However I understand that honey and beeswax are changeable in the sense many materials are dependant on source, extraction...myriad factors! Anyway I'm always open to liking it and I've got to say that this is one of the finest examples of a honey/beeswax fragrance one could imagine. It's sublime! The honied opening is PERFECTLY judged and blended to absolute elite levels with rose saffron and the most complimentary partner for it...tobacco with it's inherent bitter and sweet undertones. Dries right down to a mellow not cloying, but sweet rich...woolly, comforting fragrance. Having said all this positive stuff about it...It's no Slowdive. This carries a middle eastern attar, sensibility with it (perhaps in the rose and saffron?) and just isn't modern enough for me to wear or justify purchasing. Really, really, really good though!

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Sultan Pasha Attars Al Hareem

Sultan Pasha Attars

This is a wow! from me. Animalic but smooth oud dominance but with traces of roses and opulent musk. The oud character itself carries the whole thing starting with a mild cambodian cheese or real civet smell opening instantly diffusing into dark woody resinous tones. Al Hareem is mainly oud to my nose but the rose does develop as it dries down, never quite going what you'd call 'sweet' though. As someone who has a few oud attars this is familiar, powerful but no where near the most animalic or potent oud you will smell. This is clearly of great quality (not sure if all Pasha's oud comes from Ensar?) and when you are in the mood for it, just perfection. Superb.

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