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Fragrance One Black Tie

This doesn't resonate with me, the name I mean. Black tie. Office? Sure, spent a fair amount of time in offices. Date? I've been on a few dates in my time. I don't think I've ever been to a black tie engagement? No...in fact, I haven't. Then again I am a scruffy bastard and not like Jezza, rubbing shoulders with the elite and beautiful people, I'm just a pleb at a keyboard, slagging off his latest creation because it doesn't 'relate' to me... boo hoo. Well too bad!!! Why would you aspirational, Fragrance army types, want to be a loser like me anyway huh? You wouldn't. You want the Tom Ford suit, the massive watch, the Ferrari, the abs and to so knee deep in dropped panties you can barely move an inch! That's the life. That's what you want. That's BLACK TIE.

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Amouage Enclave

I'm glad there's a down vote thingy on the smells like, I mean it's not new but it used to cancel the up votes rather than just tally both. anyway! It's nothing remotely like Enigma, I'm surprised anyone could think that. So when I heard that Rasquinet had been tasked with making a perfume for Amouage I pretty much thought it was a match made in heaven, thinking back to Moon, that gold one he did for HdP, Black Powder, and a couple of others, I reckon I get his style now. It's big, bold, bombastic, complex perfumery and fits with the Middle Eastern feel of Amouage. He's also a perfumer who isn't afraid of creating ballsy effects using vast swathes of synthetic materials. This one is relentless, especially at first and I tell you that after only minutes of development but I think the way it calms down significantly is testament to the perfumers balance. I actually shouldn't review a perfume so prematurely but this has a roguish, creamy spiced, piquant,spiked pink pepper which I completely adore. Enclave will likely be criticised for the driving force of woody amber which is brutally volatile at first gassing off all over the place. Natural & real connoisseur/Snobs probably won't dig it but the correct use of AmberXtreme or similar is very hard to get right and Rasquinet seems to manage it every time. The snob in me finds it a touch invasive (and snobs likely won't get Enclave) like somme other Rasquinet fragrances mentioned, but just as it begins to grate a little, it seems to retreat and just at the perfect time too. This is hefty, boozy, spiced, amber with incense leanings and to be honest the fragrance it reminded me the most of was another Amouage, that I haven't even smelled in years, (but this perhaps tells you how much of an impression it left?) it's Journey Man. I personally like it. I know how difficult amberXtreme is to use, it's brutally strong and used to bolster ambers and such in tiny amounts, I think there's a tendency to blame the presence of these molecules when it's a cumulative effect and after all the perfumer decided to use it as it brought something to the composition, I don't believe they just think, let's make this BEASTMODE!!! (Perhaps the brands request that though??? I don't know.) Overall I personally like it but I completely get why others would not. I think it represents the brand well, it's more in line with the complex, severity of an Interlude Man or something.

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Amouage Meander

So to start out... Meander is a perfect name for this perfume, the vibe is a meandering one. I've followed perfumer Mackenzie Reilly on social media for a few years now (I think?) and it's good to finally see/smell her work coming through and certainly for such a high profile brand as Amouage, to be honest she's really made two fantastic perfumes for the Renaissance collection, Meander being my favourite. I saw a couple of reviews but they were from the usual brand sycophants who may have been sent free product so their positive view is met with scepticism. I shouldn't have been so cynical though, but it didn't sound like my bag, or like quintessential Amouage. I blame the reviewers. I think Meander falls more inline with Imitation or Portrayal than it does with Interlude or Epic (all the Man ones of these BTW) which is that it's a floral scent at heart, but surrounding by a swirling, changeling sort of vibe. The opening to me smells very airy, slight and mineral, misty olibanum, and that watery papyrus note you get, by immediate thoughts were... BE GONE THE SPECTRE OF SANTAL 33! YOU'RE NOT WELCOME HERE! Glad to tell you that effect only lasts for a few seconds before everything starts to build, but in a super gentile, civilized manner, Meander is the whimsical antidote to Enclave's full on woody, amber and Amouage Incense thickness. This only lightly nods in the direction with a lemon and pine tinged olibanum, but it's so veiled, vignette in the fabric of this scent, it's barely there at all. A transient, plastic, saffron twang at about the 5-10 minute mark is then gone just as quick. Orris or carrot are listed here in the notes and I'm not sure I get them from this a vague first impression but there's definitely a powdery, sweet element to this perfume. Then the knotty, earthy but fresh tentrils of a rooty vetiver perhaps? start to ground this fragrance. As it progresses it gets nicer and, nicer, a mixture of cool and aloof and warm and cuddly. I guess all this contrarian talk means that Meander performs a successful balancing act which is really what perfumery is all about, balanced harmonics. I hastily wrote this review without properly wearing this perfume at least once. I judged it on a single spray on my wrist but I think I can make something of an evaluation based on that and say that this is very good. To the point I'm tempted to get it. The colour of the bottle is Celadon or Baby Yoda green which is really lovely too.

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Amouage Crimson Rocks

This is an exemplary fragrance and restores faith in creative perfumery. I'm not overstating that, I think this is one of the most unique prospects of the renaissance collection which to be fair are all very interesting and faceted in their own way. So just to make it clear I wrote a separate review to this on Instagram before I'd read any notes but naturally I've been informed by the Fragrantica ones that there's So this has a spicy opening but it's somehow blunted (in a good way) and I'm someone who loves pink pepper in top notes, I go mad for it and it's certainly complimentary with rose. However, I can't say it's instant piquant nature comes across to me, this almost feels a little like licquorice but not licorice, It's very difficult to describe the opening of this fragrance, I struggle and I like that. This is a dry, volcanic, ashy, but not parched feel, it's kinda like an aerated volcanic rock, of a thing but becoming much sweeter with rose. I received compliments ranging from 'that's sweet I like that!' to 'you smell a bit like cola cubes' both of which I'll take. I think the rose starts to have a purplish hue as the day wears on and a definitive smack of damascones!!! Its a rounded rose accord complete with the velvety, lightly decayed feel of Bulgarian absolute. It's not a jammy or boring cliched rose, this has a subtle character. Musks chime in beautifully after several hours, giving a really warm, cosy, gorgeousness to this fragrance. That ambretteolde/Romandolide/musk ketone humming warmth. That's two modern roses in the space of a year or so that I think have completely flipped the script on modern roses, just when you think you'd seen all the perfumers trickery. Lovely stuff from Amouage and Bertier! Bravo!!!

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Les Indemodables Chypre Azural

Les Indemodables

So I get an opening of bergamot and green shoots which morphs into orange, first bitter (pith) then sweet orange which lasts into a very mild EDC type neroli orange blossom note, just peaking through what is a very mossy, pretty relentless chypre moss. It has a bit of an indy sensibility but the truth of the matter is that indy perfumes can't make a citrus as bright and enlongated as this. It's kinda a very fresh, eau de cologne, chypre hybrid. Very, very good. Solid and just what I expect from this brand. The sample was gifted by Les Indemodables but this has no bearing on my review whatsoever. I'd say it's a touch expensive but they all are really, and the naturals present are in quite small quantities, (although a few are overdosed) the perfumers get the most out of them.

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Goutal Vetiver

I don't think I ever reviewed this before because I figured it was a pretty standard vetiver, and it is, but a very pleasant one. Refreshing that it has vetiver in the name and actually smells of vetiver, but it's a mild, non smoky, Haitian vetiver, with that sharp, citrus, nootkatone element enhanced rather than the dry, smoky, rooty, tendrills of a darker vetiver. It's no less authentic though and feels creamy in that sense that vetiver can be, and that saltiness is there, certainly in the top notes. It's lovely actually. If I consider getting another vetiver fragrances at some point, this might be on the shortlist.

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Ormonde Jayne Royal Elixir

I received a sample of Ambre Royal by Ormonde Jayne and fell in love with the scent. Finding out there is an extrait version available, I simply had to have a full bottle. For me, this is the definition of what perfume should be. RE smells so glamorous and luxurious. The notes combine into an almost leathery vibe, reminiscent of an expensive couture designer handbag. It’s masterfully blended yet searching deeper I get the jasmine and orchid that lend a bitterness, and this is given texture by a powdery orris note. Lots of naturals here, it oozes quality. Performance is strong. Two squirts and I’m bubbled in an arm-length cloud of beauty which lasts for hours. It’s an addictive, sexy and intoxicating scent. It smells monied and leans slightly feminine to my nose, although my girlfriend wore it and found it too masculine for her taste. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest I would wear this in the evening on dinner dates or dressed up for an event. But it would certainly work just as well for the office.

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Les Indemodables Cuir de Chine

Les Indemodables

As previous reviews will display I love Les Indemodables and their small but steady output is a perfect little collection of fragrances, restoring my faith in the industry and new, niche or boutique brands, not just existing for the sake of it. This opens with a sweet, fruity, floral accord laden with a beautiful osmanthus and resplendent peach fuzz and blackcurrant, lactonic, vanilla curds and a slightly funky, musk of the mildly pissy variety. Very, very restrained and low in the mix though and it does go. This is required as per the naturally occurring funk indole/skatole etc... and the juxtaposition of adding civet to florals in the classical sense. For me all this creates a pedestal to elevate the beautiful, natural floral materials even higher. I like the opening and what's been done here in a perfumery sense but I'm not really my cup of tea, taste wise, I think my mood today is a big factor in that though, because there's elements I love about this. I think it could be a grower, I might end up, updating this and saying I adore it and must have a bottle, it's one of those perfumes.

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Caron Aimez Moi Comme Je Suis

Aimez Moi Comme Je Suis

Caron have managed to make an iconic formula here but one which is mildly derivative of lots of common tropes and aroma chemicals etc... but combined in such a way as to make something that feels new to me. That's all I can ask of a perfume, we all know the common building blocks and 'tricks' or commonality of technique used by perfumers and I don't expect a completely original, ground breaking work of genius everytime I sniff out a new perfume, but just try and that effort will be reflected in the end result and that's what we have here. So vetiver being the prominent listed note is misleading for me, because it's not the smoky, earthy, dry notes I get from it. (wait for the contradiction in 5,4,3...) Despite having a creamy, woody, earthy, slightly nutty drydown (all descriptors I would also use for a complex vetiver oil) I DON'T think that Aimez moi comme je suis is in anyway a typical vetiver, nor do I smell vetiver in it really. Apparently the formula contains 10% vetiver oil which despite being quite potent can blend down into a composition or be easily subdued depending what else you put in. I think the way it manifests in this perfume is intriguing, the earthy notes are even slightly more reminiscent of patchouli than vetiver. So the way this opens is very...(I hate this word but it's appropriate) generic. What I mean is that I get that herbal, faux bergamot (bergamal, DHM), lavender, clary sage it's classically soapy but then there's this smoky element. Hold on Houdini!!! Woah woah woah, YOU SAID and I quote... "...This is not the smoky, earthy dry notes..." so what do you mean??? Well if you'd let me finish...(god I need to see a shrink! :) I was about to say that this has the lingering smokey after touch of cigarette smoke on clothing, not always a nice thing but in this context it puts the normality (if very well constructed) main body, of clean, men's shower gels and soap and such, into a whole new context. So you smell the opening and go...Caron? what's happening here this is a bit... Lynx/Axe deodorant like...then as it settles it starts to chime with lots of other notes and before you know it this thing is charming you. The name is also imploring you to love it, perhaps they know that this is the mental process people go through with it? Underwhelmed, mildly charmed, to fallen for...A true grower not a shower. The drydown really is beautiful, it has a certain modernity too with that kind of creamy, ambrox/woods and that nutty, depth. I think it's really, really accomplished, and harder than you think to create something more than the sum of it's parts & which doesn't smell old hat. I'd compare it to GIT or Cool water but also Terre d'Hermes or Fierce or CKOne, just in terms of it's place in the pantheon of great men's perfume formulas comprised primarily of very commonly used materials but brought together harmoniously.

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Zara Red Temptation for Her

Red Temptation for Her

Not BR540 - This is Mancera Instant Crush and it is just as strong!

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Les Indemodables Fougere Emeraude

Fougere Emeraude

Les Indemodables

Les Indemodables can do no wrong in my eyes. They are spectacularly good fragrances, creative, transparent on the amount of naturals used and fascinating from a technical point of view on just how the perfumers bring them out. The compositions are original, they don't release too much or spunk free bottles away on tiresome, social media, gurus and reviewers etc... I love them. The seem French, arrogantly puffing on a Galosises and not giving a merd what you think! They are here to be artisits and create beauty. All that good stuff. But I don't really like this one as such. haha However it's still BRILLIANT!!! The opening is orange blossom, a spectacular orange blossom accord full of petitgrain, mutating into a more creamy/waxy floral but light on it's feet an with the 'fougere' bit threatening to rumble just beneath the surface. If this was just a nice Orange blossom, I'd be like okay, it's a safe pass fragrance but never with this brand, they don't allow mediocre to slip through, even their tropes are fresh and new, Musk, I mean how exciting can a musk be? Musc des sables? Just try it! Anyway then develops a smell of minty, resinousness, I described as white camphor/elemi/frankinsense/cypress/eucalyptus/atlas cedar...Those vibes. Mix this with the white floral effect and petetgrain and there you have something highly original and then there's warmth of fougere vibes setting it perfectly as this herbal, floral melting pot! So looking at the notes here I can see that clary sage also has these properties of sharp and mild camphor as does some lavender sometimes. Even Tuberose has a minty quality and the heft of the midrif combined with petitgrain (Which I feel is definitely here as well as orange or tangerine) will promote an orange blossom smell, I reported in the opening. This is a strange fragrance and not a typical fougere but still fits the character of one in some strange sense. I need more time with it because I really started to fall for it as it dried down.

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Tauer Perfumes Au Coeur Du Désert

Au Coeur Du Désert

So I'm not sure what I thought I'd tried before but this being released in 2016 seems like some Mandela effect shit! (google it!) I could've sworn this existed well previous, but anyway, I like it, smells like a modded version of L'air du desert Marocain. I couldn't tell you how it's different? But it is if you are super familiar with previous work you can feel the micro adjusted accords, maybe this is a slightly cleaner leather and creamier sandalwood even? Either... The people love it, give them more of it. fine. Stale & creatively bereft and churning our the same old shit/playing about with formula variations on the customers time? Maybe? How I feel is that L'air and Tauer's style is so unique I feel can dine out on that, pretty much for the rest of his career as far as I'm concerned. It's unfair to say that because he is innovating and trying stuff outside of this, his obvious, both commercial and artistic comfort zone. I have L'air du desert Marocain and as such this is obsolete to me personally as I prefer that to this. Objectively, this is monumentally superb, strong and all the other great things about these fragrances. Bit of an odd review but hopefully a truthful and helpful one.

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Guerlain Vetiver Eau de Toilette

Vetiver Eau de Toilette

I used to own this. I quaffed a bottle years ago and never replaced it until recently when I acquired an 80's/90's mini. Wearing it today and I'm blown away, the top notes are still bright nothing short of superb. I can picture the segments of lemon, bergamot and grapefruit. This is mainly a citrus, oakmoss chypre in that classic mold with a kind of smooth, white floral heart, descending into a clean, dry vetiver note like the Nootkatone of grapefruit, more of a mild, Thai vetiver oil as apposed to a full bodied Haiti or Java, and one which doesn't have the typical smokiness or earth of vetiver, until the darker tones of the drydown that is and even then it's not really vetiver, more murky, vintage tones. I think it's amazing! A great fragrance. So it feels funny reviewing something I'm so familiar with and kinda took for granted in a way a fresh, functional, masculine fragrance. I think the journey opens your eyes, you come back around again to appreciating the little things, like Guerlain Vetiver.

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Timothy Han Edition Perfumes Against Nature

Timothy Han Edition Perfumes

So I was completely bamboozled by this fragrance today, to the point I had to wear something else so as not to experience sensory overload. I’m not in any mood at the moment to be over stimulated, challenged, or conscious of what I’m wearing, taking it apart and ultimately being put off from pursuing it further, in spite of what is a fantastic concept, well executed. I don’t know where to start with this? When I’d wear it? Or even if I would wear it? I’m assuming the brief (by the name) is to create something which is not trying to recreate the natural, but actively be anti-nature. It’s certainly that. It’s quite alien, existing one it’s own bizarre space, not typical in any sense really. There’s lots of obvious metallic, green and blue/green, azure notes opening up to what is a juniper, melon, cucumber type of smell, honestly that sounds hideous to many but please give this a chance. Very modern and out there in terms of artisan ‘kook’, but somehow remaining quite stern and serious and with real merit as far as I’m concerned. Personally, I think it’s very floral (certainly opening wise) in a exciting way, it kinda dances between snorting iron filings & licking a battery, while some exotic bouquet of flowers passing by on a oceanic breeze. The weirdest thing of all is the development of a chocolatey, cacao, amber, benzoin which even as I describe it seems completely at odds with the heart of this fragrance, but like so many of these additions, if it wasn’t there, I’d likely be far less enamoured with Against nature. It’s fucking brilliant! Just like yesterday I couldn’t face actually wearing this as my #sotd but on a day when I want something different I’ll sack it on for a proper wear. Holy moly is this tenacious! It remains on skin a LONG time.

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Bon Parfumeur 302 Amber, Iris, Sandalwood

302 Amber, Iris, Sandalwood

First impression was that it was too strong and heady for my liking. But as it calms down it turns into this creamy santal with vanilla which is calming and absolutely gorgeous. I would wear this while out walking on a cold winters day and it would feel perfect. Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest

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Orto Parisi Bergamask

My co worker walked into our large open plan office this morning and immediately exclaimed ‘it stinks in here’. These molecules like to travel. I like the frag. It’s a bit sweaty, like giving your brother a hug and realising he hasn’t showered yet. But yeah, he’s your bro and you love him, so it’s ok. Max two squirts for the office. Definitely not four, ok? Bye Follow me on Instagram: @TheScentiest

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Pierre Balmain Jolie Madame

I love the image of a surly Cellier with a gauloises hanging out of her mouth muttering French swears at an industry dominated by men. It’s through the interaction with Cellierphiles that I have this impression of her, could be inaccurate though. I mean I’m not the biggest fan of Bandit but I can appreciate it, I love another she did for Balmain Vent Vert and have a reasonably old 60’s vintage which is still fantastic and twangs with greenery. So I was told I should try this and was very kindly supplied with another pretty ancient vintage to try and boy oh boy this a brilliant perfume. It smells like the wafted beauty of violet, kindly powdery but definitely has colder qualities of violet leaf, which is a really strange smell in truth. A complex green, dry mixture of irone and ionone. This is all against a completely not pretty, not buttery and totally not elegant leather. It’s almost modern in a weird way and yet this perfume proabably smelled as dated today as it does when it came out. I mean dated in a good way, aged but not lacking a certain vibrancy. Yeah it’s a kind of powdery, enigmatic statement, warm, and just the right amount of everything going on for me, musks and all of a sudden all that dryness is some how epically punctuated by lush, floral Narcissus or more a purple feel, maybe bluebells or nearly to the point of hyacinth. I’m completely smitten with it. The topnotes which I could tell were citrus had lost a little of their lustre but when you’re in your twilight years you don’t expect everything to work perfectly right? Another thing that really prompted me to try this classic perfume was Miguel Matos and his tribute to Cellier, Germaine. Which I have to say smells very different to this. I still enjoyed Germaine and you could say Citrus, violet, violet leaf, leather how different could it be? Well quite different is the answer but a jolly good nod in the direction of this perfume. I completely adore Jolie Madame and it’s about as suitable for a man you could hope for, especially as a perfume with Madame in the title.

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Rook Perfumes Undergrowth 2020 Edition

Undergrowth 2020 Edition

Undergrowth is by far my favourite of the three I tried. I’ll get the critique out of the way to start off, I feel the same about this as Forrest it’s not a perfume in the sense that I want a perfume to be...well...perfumey! It’s a scent Aurora, a smell, indeed evocative of undergrowth without being too witchy or madly Indy. But that might just be where it misses a trick? If I was ever to represent ‘undergrowth’ the almost literal definition to me would be a mushroom accord or note. There’s loads of materials that possess these qualities such as geosmin or Ethyl fenchol. However, the stuff I like is the cliche free delivery of common and recognisable materials but rendered in such a lovely way. The patchouli is prominent but it doesn’t have that soil trope, it’s been manipulated and softened, rounded. The opening is minty but not to the point of some toothpaste, or peppermint which would seem out of place. This is very delicately placed atop the woody, greenery of the body of undergrowth. Slightly menthol, a hint of eucalyptus, a sparingly use white camphor on that body of patchouli. So apparently there’s a lot of naturals in this and it shows, the vetiver is not overt or smokey but is probably thickening and supporting that patchouli. I say thick but it’s remarkably light this one. I’ve extracted as much perfume stuff as I can out of what is another collection of woody and green materials. Perhaps I’m being unfair and expecting too much? Not every fragrance should have a diverse spread of notes and accords, and to Rooks credit, nothing jars and everything goes together in its right place. I’m being over Critical of a fragrance I fundamentally like and enjoyed. I still wouldn’t buy it though.

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Rook Perfumes Forest 2020 Edition

Forest 2020 Edition

Forrest is nice. Pine, cypress and spruce, heavier Virginian cedar perhaps create a kind of floaty Forrest air. Which is as much about olibanum as anything else to me. It’s fresh, woody, it’s lovely. However, is it perfume? I say that with the greatest respect, but I’m not sure of the answer? I think it’s more of a smell than anything else. An aurora I want perfume to have interest, distinct phases and notes. The name would suggest that it has met its Brief and it’s supposed to be a collection of woody, resin materials conspiring to conjure a Forrest and it does that. You can’t overtly smell modern fixative trickery or Iso e super or anything, although I don’t doubt it’s probably there. The sharpness of citrus and pine gives way to a cerebral Lemony Elemi and Frankincense lasting fairly well on my skin. I can’t knock it really, doesn’t excite me though.

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Rook Perfumes Rook by Rook 2020 Edition

Rook by Rook 2020 Edition

Whoever thought for a moment that this smelled anything remotely like Fall into Stars, clearly has a vastly different sense of smell to mine. No offence but Nadeem’s skills are in no way comparable to Christophe’s and even if they were these two perfumes are at completely different ends of a spectrum. That’s not to say that I don’t like it, Rook’s signature has notable complexity, opening with a strong but well managed birch tar note, effectively acting as a kind of smokey top note, which gradually fades as a kind of deep, soapy, gentlemen’s leather emerges. It evolves throughout the wearing, and lasts forever on skin but I wouldn’t say Rook is intrusive. It feels accomplished but suitably dense, Indy and rustic, quite strange in actuality. It’s hard to describe because it’s muddled, and that’s not a good adjective to use about a perfumers work. I wouldn’t wear it and therefore it’s not a success in my book. Clearly there’s some quality here and reasonably good value along with strong branding, interesting packaging. I think there’s good things to come from Rook, but the three I tried didn’t excite me particularly.

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Cra-yon Passport Amour

Completing the set is this... a fruity rose perfume. Not a concept I don’t like, a tried and tested combination, which means it has to very very good to standout. There’s enough flair and talent in the industry to create rose perfumes which are doing something different, this from Cra-yon is not one of them. If I compare to recent examples of roses that did something else I’d have to site Chronotope’s Spite or Meditorossa’s Talento. I just don’t like this, jammy jammy sweet rose, plastic thin, reminiscent of red cellophane, no real depth, but powerfully in your face! I mean to the point of screaming at you. The fruitiness goes hand in hand with a musky, rose, red berry, raspberry/strawberry tone. It’s fine I suppose if this is what you want and plenty of people maybe do, but I question it’s existence even moreso than the tiresome catalog of Montale fragrances which seem to have an audience whereas this new brand is trying to establish one based on absolutely nothing of value or originality. I’m being particularly and unusually harsh for me, but I just don’t see the point in this brands existence? I’m not someone who is ‘all about the juice.’ (...Man!) I see that there’s more to perfume than that and perhaps have not come dow so hard on other new fangled brands that seem to place more importance on social media presence, marketing and brand image. I don’t doubt the importance of these things but if the fragrances are very cookie cutter, then perfumistas worth their salt will see through it and demand more. Like I said in a previous review if even one of these hand been slightly ‘brave’ even if it was awful I might not have been so critical.

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Cra-yon Vanilla CEO

CEO is a curious choice of title don’t you think? This from a brand that seems to promote a kind of trendy, sustainable, socially conscious vibe with the Vegan and genderless proclamations plastered on the packaging. I suppose you can be a good CEO not a elite bastard shitting on the little guy, but there you go. Anyway... this is a boring vanilla to me. Opens fairly nicely, clearly sweet with vanillin and a light floral accord developing, but hey come on, it’s crushingly uninspired. I think in its defence it reminded me of something from the Vanille collection from Sylvanne Delacourte which is actually not much of a defence as I found them pretty uninspiring despite the Guerlain connection. Cloying after a short time and I really didn’t enjoy wearing it. Sorry. It’s not just because I’m some woody, natural vanilla absolute snob or something, I like plenty of more modest vanillas just not this one.

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Cra-yon Sand Service

Okay so I’m going to try not to slag this brand off with as much vitriolic, distain as I did on Instagram but the three fragrances from Cra-yon seem fairly pointless to me, in terms of creativity or breaking new ground and beg the question, why bother? Why bother creating a brand that doesn’t excite or innovate or even show a glimmer of anything new? I’m not being nasty it’s just a genuine question and observation. In a crowded marketplace how does this brand stand out? To me it doesn’t. It’s all Marketing and slick logos and packaging with zero substance behind it, the fragrances seem to have been plucked off the shelf at a fragrance laboratory, we’ll have a Sandalwood one (this one) a rose and a vanilla. All simple concepts and good starting points, and even if one of them was good, that would completely change my view of the brand, so it really doesn’t take much for me to give the benefit of the doubt but all three are complete cookie cutter A to B to C. It’s limp. Lifeless. There just Feels like there’s no passion in this product and when you’ve seen lots of brands come and go you kinda get a feel for what is and what isn’t a labour of love. This isn’t bad as such, it smells like a subpar Santal 33 by Le Labo, which is definitely intentional given what I assume is Cra-yon’s woke, urban, hipsterite, target demographic. So not only lack lustre but likely a deliberate clone. See the problem is I don’t like Santal 33 anyway, the watery strangeness of a papyrus opening, the top note on sandalwood is very unsettling to me and smells plain odd. It’s intriguing though, despite not enjoying or wanting to wear, and this doesn’t even have the rewarding, nutty Santal drydown of its inspiration. Sorry Cra-yon I’m not buying it, but clearly someone is and you’re making it work in a crowded marketplace. Contrary to my usual complaint of new brands launching with 12-14 fragrances in a line and then feeling they have to release a new one every three months to stay fresh, relevant, being promoted by influencers, staying visible as a brand and keeping up with other houses output etc... I like brands that don’t play that game and Cra yon’s focus on 3 to start is a good idea. However, had they released more odds are better for getting one that I liked and maybe that would’ve changed the whole complexion of this review slightly...I dunno?

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Roja Dove Burlington 1819

Burlington 1819

fragrance_weirdo

I think it’s suffered from some weird expectations. People are likely to enthuse over a new Roja. Especially an affordable one like this. First batch was limited to 100 bottles and so it sold out quickly. It all adds to the hype. And then a load of people sold their bottles and the hype bubble was burst. So what’s going on? Well nothing really. I think this is a very nice fragrance. Citrus and mint with a woody sweet mossy base. Decent longevity. It wears a little close but that’s fine. It smells nice. It’s a bit out of type for Roja. We are used to the big Chypres and animalics, the ouds, leathers and other more challenging scents. So it’s a little unexpected but that doesn’t change the fact it smells great. For me - I’ve got lots in this space already so not certain I need it in my life but if you’ve got a gap for a nice citrus and mint fragrance this will do just lovely.

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