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Memoirs Of A Perfume Collector Beyond the Pashtun Summit

Beyond the Pashtun Summit

Memoirs Of A Perfume Collector

This brand revel in the immediate excitement and reminiscent fondness of travel, with fragrances that transport the wearer to beautiful, exotic places from around the globe. Here is another recent addition to the line, a leather perfume for those treasured souls caught up in the romance and magic of wanderlust. Beyond the Pashtun Summit begins with one of the best openings I’ve ever experienced. The blend of pomegranate, davana and hashish in the top is quite unique, the kind of opening that inspires your senses. Despite its extravagance, the oud plays a supporting role, rather than existing noticeably in the foreground. Its existence is woven into the patchwork of scenes, smells and experiences of the beautiful mountain pass, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. For me, this is a non linear boujie boho kind of joint that will appeal to fans of Byredo, yet without the divisive minimalist aesthetic. It’s a complex, smoky leather, with chewing tobacco and some hazy, intoxicating smoke that feels grassy, like some crazy zeut-laced immortelle. When perfumery ceaselessly chases art for arts sake, it can often result in a scent that is astonishing yet peculiar, rendering the work something to behold rather than wear. With Pashtun, the art and storytelling of global exploration is balanced by a stunning wearability. A new favourite in my collection.

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4 years ago

Amouage Opus XIV – Royal Tobacco

Opus XIV – Royal Tobacco

Hey! Look! I'm the first person to say I love Woody ambers. Well, maybe love is a bit hyperbolic, I certainly like much maligned materials like ambroxan, cashmeran and Norlimbanol, IBQ, etc... which get a hard time from either snobs (include myself in there), or people who don't really understand what they are and how they are being deliberately used to benefit the perfume, or simply people who don't like them, and all of those are okay...it's all subjective and we're all free to have our opinions on stuff. Generally though, I'm not a straight outright hater when it comes to big, tenacious BOMBS and modern materials, so long as they are deftly applied and this SORT OF IS? (kinda??) I couldn't wear this. For all it's hyper colour of chewy, gourmand, resins and vanillic tobacco opening and ashy, smoky drydown, I can't get over the fact that AmberXtreme is screeching in my face. I mean it's a complex and balanced perfume, a modern triumph of tenacity and power, with loads going on and it's somewhat of a return to Amouage going BIG!!! (did they ever stop?) but it's not particularly enjoyable for me, I'm sorry to say. After the initial top notes and interesting tobacco 'angle' it's just kinda relentless! I mean I like aspects of it, and for all my criticism, I do appreciate the style and the skill on display here, but part of me also thinks, it seems as though the likes of Zarokian and Rasquinet have been given carte blanche on the tenacious, super power molecules and for all their talent, can't quite Sheppard these sprawling, beastmode concepts, into subtly conveyed perfume. And believe me if anyone can do it, it's those two. These kinds of release tend to be hit and miss with me personally, I'd site two similar recent offerings, I thought Silver Oud was decent (actually very similar to this, which is strange) and Enclave which I also enjoyed, and is yet another woody amber SLAYER!!!! I guess this is more of a general point about Amouage as much as it is a comment on this particular fragrance, which I don't hate btw, and I'm not saying is bad, like I said you either connect or you don't. My broader point about Amouage is just the direction, stuff under Chong (and before) used to be impactful and stylish and still is, but in a whole new way, I'm just not used to it yet and nor do I feel that the releases have been as good, sorry Mr Salmon. Top marks for the bottle. It seems they have scrapped the Opus style flask now (although Silver Oud was in one of those? I'm confused.) and this is housed in a standard collection, 'Man' bottle, which is all Matt finished white with a black cap and looks sleek and stylish but functional, like a souped up Mercedes or BMW M3 or something? UPDATE 16/08/22 So I was confident my appraisal of this perfume (based on spraying on my arm a couple of times) was accurate and I have enough experience to pen a review when not exactly the most familiar with a perfume, figuring my thought wouldn't change too much. Well they have! haha. No, fundamentally I stand by any implied negativity above (I wasn't that negative was I? I liked it even with minor critique) but having worn this for a day I have to say the experience was FANTASTIC! Which just goes to prove you should always wear things properly and give them a chance because studying something intently on your arm, you are going to fixate over the heavy set, woody ambers, and the sheer complexity of the thing. However when you wear it and let that go, it's not a screechfest but an inherently rewarding experience of dry ashen smoke and chewy resins with that dark tobacco/licorice opening and trail, then the amberX carefully softened and buffed to a satin sheen. I actually love it, I have to say.

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4 years ago

Les Abstraits La Douleur Exquise

La Douleur Exquise

It basically smells like Rochas Femme and Portrait of a Lady having an amorous spider fight on Lesbos. Then Patchouli starts perving on them. But it's also not that AT ALL. So it's finally here, Eugen's fragrance brand and I was privileged to be one of the guinea pigs, testing the water with acerbic, hard to please, so called 'reviewers'. This fragrance is perculiarly rosier at a distance than it is close up, on skin. On skin it's a sensual, spicy thing, at least to begin with. So honestly the rose is very measured, has some sweetness in the form of a pear type top note, then the twinkle of iris or violet to it, powdery in a slightly oldskool manner, there's a faint note of cumin or something giving that effect and then balmy resinous warmth. It's not a typical amber (did someone mention myrrh?) because it's much darker than the usual sweet benzoin or biting labdanum amber, also, myrrh and patchouli play very nicely together, especially in a composition so gentle as this one. The woody patchouli which follows is not obtuse or chocolatey, it's quite angular (for a while) and often thought to be synthetic smelling but that is just the way some patchouli oils are. All hangs cohesively with a kind of softness on the skin. The wearing experience is much more dusty and dusky and with a sombre tone, than perhaps my description would have you believe. Exquisite really is the word and I'm not just soft soaping and bypassing my critical eye because I consider Eugen a pal and because I really like and respect the people behind this brand like Antoine Lie, and Atelier Francais des matieres those high expectations made it have to work harder if anything. But this perfume has delivered. I think due to the name and the inspiration, there's a feeling that it should be more bombastic and impactful, but just think for a second about the sorts of perfume Eugen enjoys. Chanel for starters, I mean they sort of exist in a whole chic, echelon all of their own, and this is perfume which glimpes that aesthetic, it's not trying to wow you with the latest 'niche' fad or starfish notes or cannabis or grab your money because it's a Youtuber fragrance. It's about painting with a familiar palate to convey emotion, and for me, it does just that. Do not mistake refinement for banality. My particular enjoyment of this could be down to the fact I'm in the market for a rose at the moment and one which is not sweet or trope laden, and has a patchouli with some bite but also has dreamy, pussycat drydown and classic perfumery nods, and frankly this perfume has all those things. So good on Eugen and everyone involved for creating something really great with a meaningful brief. I know something of what this perfume means to him and where it's come from artistically, emotionally and that makes it all the more meaningful to me personally, and that's the only valid reason I might agree with as to why I connect with the perfume and why I could be a little biased. Speaking objectively, Antoine Lie has been involved in two other brands I can think of in recent years, in Eris and Les Indemodables, both of which I raved and gushed about, with no vested interest, so it stands to reason that a similar brand will also tickle my fancy. What I do find remarkable, is that each of these brands are distinctly different, as good as Les Indemodables are La Douleur Exquise is not just Les Indemodables MKII, it's not more of the same. Okay quality and artistically sure, and that's a good thing, but it's still a unique prospect and that is credit to Lie and Eugen. I can't wait to see what else this brand has to offer because this is a strong first outing for me, without being all shiny shiny, look at me, I think this will slowly plod on and grow in stature. I genuinely love it anyway, great perfume, take my money!

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4 years ago

Tom Ford Noir Extreme Parfum

Noir Extreme Parfum

Nope nope nope. This is not the one. Smells like an ashtray with some noir extreme edp sprinkled on top. Harsh, spicy, leathery, animalic, smokey, filthy, dirty with a TINY bit of sweetness. No way is anyone gonna say that this is better than the edp😡

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4 years ago

Dries Van Noten Soie Malaquais

Dries Van Noten

Finally we reach the end of the collection and to perfumer Marie Salamagne and this monstrosity! haha. Not really. Nutty, cotton textured, has this unpleasant, tide going out before a tsunami vibe to it. There's understated tonka musk and fuggy sandalwood bizzness sort of feel about it. I wasn't overly fond but it does have it' moments, and I could see how someone could love this, because there's potential to find something in it. I however couldn't connect with it.

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4 years ago

Dries Van Noten Fleur Du Mal

Dries Van Noten

At last!!!! An absolute triumph from this line. This is totally unique!!! (to me at least) What a great perfume, immediately grabbed my attention and frankly the bottle is my favourite out of this collection too, being purple and leopard print or whatever? I'm so glad it's good because this collection, although not shit, has not exactly overachieved so far. I just feel it's quite difficult to describe, doesn't smell like any osmanthus I know, but I suppose has a cool, airy, powdery thing to it. It's not really very leathery either and then BAM!!!! Very, very, sleek, suede leather base after a little time. I loved it, what a fantastic perfume. So I wrote that as an initial impression and as usual it's subject to making further notes when I've worn it more. It's no surprise, but also something of a stylistic shock to me that Fleur du Mal could be made by Quintin Bisch a highly prolific perfumer at the moment, modernising and sweeping through the industry, with his sparkly, cosmic, and complex style. This is not something I immediately attributed to him, like a Bois IMperial, or Teddy or a Barrois etc.... this a totally different kettle of fish and yet no less exciting. The way he's carrying on he's going to be one of my favourite perfumers working today. I can't wait to pop this sample on again and then I probably will buy a bottle. Even if this collection yields one thing I want to buy, I judge that as something of a success, being it's that PT Barnum thing that no doubt everyone will have one they really like from DVN.

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4 years ago

Dries Van Noten Rock the Myrrh

Dries Van Noten

Big, resinous, toffee amber, also edible but not tipping over into gourmand. Smells like when they throw the entire department at a perfume. Of course it appeals, but nothing really new. Gotta top making that a critique in a hugely saturated market and when people like certain familiar vibes. Truth is... it's nice. It's well made, it's a good perfume, I'd wear it and I'd say it's a crowd pleaser, and difficult not to enjoy and gives that excited feel of 'Luxury' from walking into a perfume department, and thinking oooooh that's nice. But nothing more and I don't feel like I can praise that, I have to be true to myself and think would I buy this if I had carefully considered it? perhaps not. Would I fall victim to smelling this is a shop and loving it and then regret it afterwards? Yes probably. uPDATE: 8/8/22: Yeah I'm wearing this today and it's quite different to my inital thoughts, yes it's a resinous brew with a raft of sweetness but it's way softer in the wearing than I'd perhaps imagined which makes it a bit less impactful to those looking for something really special from this collection but much more merit from those who just want something wearable and no challenge whatsoever. I've got to say I like it much more today having worn it, it's got a fruity sweet, almost date like quality with that smooth suede, not concocted from the usual tropes of iris materials or suederal or something? Not gonna lie it's making me swoon a little.

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4 years ago

Dries Van Noten Voodoo Chile

Dries Van Noten

Don't you dare to invoke the late, great, Jimi Hendrix and have this be a shitty, boring fragrance Dries!!! Just don't! Good news!!!! :) I really liked this one. Woohoo!!! Voodoo chile is a patchouli with attitude. Smells like blackcurrant or juniper and sloes (sloe gin basically then) or something like that? Then you get the sweetness of the herbal note (says rosemary) all atop a really banging hippie, but also refined, patchouli. I thought it was clever enough and did things. All the surrounding stuff gives great compliment to the focal point. I like it!

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4 years ago

Dries Van Noten Santal Greenery

Santal Greenery

Dries Van Noten

For a start you can fuck off with that name. How half arsed can you get? But holy mackerel it's quite an opening this perfume makes. The best way I can describe it is soapy, floral, aquatic opening, almost what men's blue fragrances should smell of. There' s a watery fig approximation and traces of that abominable Santal 33, transparent sandalwood which grows and grows as it settles. They had to do it didn't they. Evoke the Spector at the feast. I didn't like this one, but even in it's derivative, unit shifting, lack of imagination, it's still less hateful than it's forebear.

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4 years ago

Dries Van Noten Cannabis Patchouli

Cannabis Patchouli

Dries Van Noten

Oh god! Here we go...another cannabis fragrance. (I wish I could use the eye roll, yawn, or flip the bird emoji on here right now) However, it's not quite the tale of woe I figured it would be, that insipid, spicy, vegetal cannabis smell of a billion and one trendy and late to be trendy brands have incorporated into their repertoire in recent years. The reason it passes muster with me is the open admission of patchouli as the other dominant force in this fragrance and it's much better for it let me tell you, and that's why it doesn't get my wrath. The other reason is that the patchouli element, especially opening actually makes a pleasant and intriguing combo with the weed smell, and it's not the most annoying accord either. As it settles though the cannabis comes in and serves to sort of taint the patchouli a bit, but I suppose it kinda has to flip to give both aspects, given that it's called cannabis patchouli... duh! It continues to flip and flick between the two, which neither makes for a boring patchouli or irritating cannabis dominant perfume. All in all, I thought it was quite clever to pit perhaps the hippiest two notes/materials/accords whatever against or allied ith each other. I might just be going soft in my old age but I think the perfumer manages to soften it an create a much better perfume than I was anticipating. On a personal level I don't ant to smell like a kinda ok patchouli fragrance & definitely not like cannabis in the vegetative stage (or any other stage to be honest) so it's not for me, but I can still see a degree of merit in it. Might be for someone who likes the idea of earthy, green and cannabis as a perfume but doesn't like what the others offer, but also likes a bit of patchouli too. Worth a sniff.

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4 years ago

Les Fleurs du Golfe Gourmand Extrême

Gourmand Extrême

Les Fleurs du Golfe

Now i ain't a leather fan AT ALLLLLLL!!!. But this here, I f**k with👌🏿. At first sniff i was like nooo way, then within 2mins the sweetness stared shining through....eventually i was like yhhhh this is officially the only leather frag i like. Its basically laether with a lot of sweetness/florals in the blend. Takes away the animalic nature of leather. Performance on this is enormous, DO NOT OVERSPRAY!. loool. Also the gyaldem loveeeee this one. So mandem, you know what to do💷💷💷

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4 years ago

Dries Van Noten Raving Rose

Dries Van Noten

This is instantly different to the other rose in this collection and I mean, you'd hope so right? This is sweeter, perhaps a little more traditionally rosy, I get pink pepper for a moment but then it turns to that soapy, high end version of herbal essence shampoo. Actually has a nice 'dark' green, peppery note a it dries down. Not my taste or the best example of this genre but joins a host of competent and likable modern rose perfumes. I must say I do like it overall. It's certainly more suitable for raving than the other rose, but did it really do it for me in the way certain modern roses have? Not quite. Update 26/01/25 I’m trying this again today and have nothing to add to my above review. Honestly, I don’t mean to toot my own horn but I read it and was like… yeah… I said it then. Now sometimes I come back to these reviews and think… what the hell was I thinking writing that? But here…well… it’s spot on.

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4 years ago

Dries Van Noten Rosa Carnivora

Dries Van Noten

Errrrrrrm.... This is a bit lovely. It's earthy, slightly sweaty cumin and patchouli/vetiver with a metallic rose note. I've smelled similar perfumes to this but hey, I'm not unrealistic, nor am I looking for absolute innovation every time, I like it.

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4 years ago

Swiss Arabian Hawa

Date night approved!👌🏿. Even though this is listed as a womans frag. It can defo be pulled off by a guy.

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4 years ago

Chanel 1957 Eau de Parfum

1957 Eau de Parfum

This hers slapsssssssss! especially in the heat. Omg this is good!!. Longevity for me was wild!. Sprayed it at 6pm and still smelling it at 11.30am following morning. Projection is steong for firat hour and a half then becomes quite an intimate scent but Longevity is phenomenal.

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4 years ago

Lorga Parfums Santal Sugar

Not feeling this one. Not what i was expecting at all!. This on my skin skells like violets with sugar. Then drydown smells a bit better with a passionfruit kind of accord. Unique fir sure but not for me and i would steongly advise against blind buying this one especially for men.

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4 years ago

Lattafa Perfumes Ajwad

Lattafa Perfumes

Very nice sweet fragrance. Has strong resemblance to Arabian oud - Aseel special edition/Les fleurs du golfe - Baccara Vanille. All in the same ball park. However i would say Ajwad is a weaker/more wearable version as some may find the other 2 too overpowering

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4 years ago

Dries Van Noten Jardin de L'Orangerie

Jardin de L'Orangerie

Dries Van Noten

I think Andrier is a fantastic perfumer, let's just get that out of the way. I think her aesthetic is as strong as Roundnitkas or Cellier, Jean Claude Ellena....any perfume who's style really is their own. Sometimes I think she's underated as being too modern, minimal and basically just making a billion Iris perfumes, which is sort of true but also sort of missing the point. This is a new line and a venture into perfumery outside of the first which was famously with Frederic Malle, and a fragrance I own because I think it's a curious art piece, complex and challenging but also a bit too challenging as I never feel compelled to wear it. So anyway, yes this is the first I tried from the new line and although I'm not one of those folks who genders fragrance and makes a big fuss about defying the marketing to 'wear what you want' (I think that's kinda implicit) However, I still have personal boundaries as to what I consider, too feminine for me personally, and Jardin de L'Orangerie falls into that category. Very pleasant creamy, lactonic opening with a very pretty orange blossom which descends into a musky, vanilla blah. It's very nice and well made, but not for me, I prefer my orange blossoms much more on the indolic, waxy side and surrounded by something interesting to set them off, or just fresh, cologne aspects. Sandalwood and orange blossom is not a misleading description, it delivers them, but in a way that is not really my scene. (This review is based on a first impression and I was only confident enough to write this review as I've tried zillions of perfumes at this point and I'm 85% sure my opinion won't shift too much upon giving it a proper wear. Having said all that, perfume still surprises me so stay tuned for a possible update)

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4 years ago

Dries Van Noten Neon Garden

Dries Van Noten

So I'm wearing Dries Van Noten's Neon garden today and although it's actually a very competent, pleasant, cheat mode (I mean orris/iris who does like that?) fragrance from Fanny Bal, I'm just not quite feeling it. I think the expectation of 'Mint' as it's clearly listed in my little sample set, made me think 'hmmmm iris and mint? I don't think I've had that combo, could be something really special this!!!' I think that expectation coupled with the OTT packaging and the Bladerunner name, had me longing for something with a bit more oomph than I got. Like I said it's a nice 'niche' Orris perfume with the most subtle vegetal qualities, and greenery, and indeed mint top note but it's too fleeting to be considered something I'd really seek out and have the ability to stand out in the crowd. The Orris goes from fleshy and leathery/powdery to that dry, papery woody ionone/irone, as a modern, uncluttered Iris perfume, I like it, but unless you're some massive DVN fan then this is just another nice perfume. Up that mintiness, and give us some shock greenery of galbanum or geranium in a top/heart that was detectable for longer, then let it retreat to a very nice iris and I would've probably sang the praises of this perfume. Take more risks what I think.

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4 years ago

Franck Muller Conquistador

Conquistador is a really elegant fragrance from start to finish, a nicely pitched opulent dusty, Labdanic sandalwood amber accord accented with a leathery iris, right from the start. It feels more like a L'air du dessert esque appeal for me. Defintely a touch of vanilla or benzoin and a syrupy boozy, oudish smell later (sometimes patchouli can do this) so yeah, that's quite a lot of things I know, but I got some good progression out of this, which I think speaks to the inherent quality of the stuff. To it's credit, Conquistador didn't feel like just another iris/orris perfume which let's face it are fairly commonplace in 'niche' perfume and if I'm honest even the worst ones are pretty good, because everyone loves orris materials whether natural or bases or whatever, it's a pretty safe bet. This feels safe but also very nicely done and as I mentioned not tropey, for me it's not 'Dior Homme plus xyz' I think that's a little reductive. I have to give credit where credit is due and although I wasn't blown away, Franck Muller have produced some consistently good products here.

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4 years ago

Franck Muller Crazy Hours

I don't mean to slag off this collection because on the whole, they ain't too bad but this was very lack lustre to wear and yet again, forgettable, for me. I've nothing against a throwaway, fruity musk, mildly floral too, and that's what we have here, but it doesn't interest me or spark the fragrance enthusiast in me to want to find something I love about it. It didn't really make me feel much. However, and for those that don't know, The Crazy hours is an iconic watch from Franck Muller which has a sort of quirky but still seriously luxurious feel. This does for me represent the sort of rainbow colours of the disordered dial of a crazy hours timepiece so I think the brief has been met, and you can't ask for much more. The citrus and higher end qualities of this did remind me of a Creed or similar type fragrance, but again you'd have to really be a big fan of Franck Muller or a collector of branded niche perfume like this to be attracted to it, and I'm just not. That' not to say that I don't want one of the beautiful flacon from FM because they are very nice looking and not outrageously priced either compared to some brands. I think Muller have given some thought to the perfumes in this line, not just jizzed out a load of cynical, generics as a watch brand trying to move into another luxury market might do but as a result of this appeal to the masses, haven't taken any risks, and why would they? True blue, hardcore fragrance fans will probably have nothing to see/sniff here, but some might be snared by the luxury and association with quality, because I doubt anyone would say this perfume is innovative.

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4 years ago

Franck Muller Double Mystery

Double Mystery? It didn't even have a touch of single mystery for me. I actually didn't write any rough notes to later form a review of double mystery (as is normal practice), it's only been a few days since I wore it and I genuinely can't remember much about it. Other than it being a woody floral, ('white' flowers) perfume, competently made and quality enough to demand this Luxury aesthetic, price tag (just about) but my fundemental question (now having tried the whole line) why buy this as a perfume or smell, if not motivated by the luxury watch angle or the packaging? Because I don't think you necessarily would otherwise, and that's all fine. I thought the perfume was decent enough. But ultimately (and quite literally) forgettable.

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4 years ago

Les Fleurs du Golfe Rose Damascena

Les Fleurs du Golfe

This is most definitely my favourite rose fragrance this far!. More so that POAL, Toyboy, Atomic Rose etc...This fragrance is just pure and simply beautiful. So nice that i wear it as a man🤷🏾♂️.

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4 years ago

Swiss Arabian Walaa

Extremely close to PDM Percival👌🏿

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4 years ago