Chypré Extraordinaire is a revolutionary perfume. Due to constantly changing IFRA regulations and limitations on oakmoss, Roja set out to create the world’s first chypré without the use of its iconic and definitive note. He has stated before that this was the hardest fragrance he’s ever had to make and at many times was close to giving up, but eventually he cracked it. Chypré Extraordinaire initially opens with refreshing bergamot and aldehydes before developing an addictively sweet and fruity combination of peach and plum, which goes on to live throughout the duration of the scent. From here a soft and delicate heart of powdery florals emerges, namely ylang, tuberose, orris and rose. As it settles on the skin, Roja’s revolutionary moss accord presents itself - it’s incredible to think this doesn’t contain any oakmoss when your nose is certain that it does. There’s a gentle and slightly animalic hint of civet and cassis but this is very subtle, alongside the other two classic chypré notes - patchouli and labdanum. Roja Dove created a spectacle with this release and it truly does live up to its name of being extraordinary. He revolutionised the way chyprés can be made and paved the way preparing for the likely demise of oakmoss usage in perfumery. This is such an addicting fragrance and smells beautiful in the warm spring and summer air.
Sergei Diaghilev founded the Ballet Russes and often implemented scent into his shows - dousing the theatre curtains with luxurious fragrance to waft the audience with splendour as they lifted. He was a pioneer of the arts and so deserved a scent as classic yet revolutionary as he was. This is what Roja Dove set out to create, a tremendously regal take on something classic - oozing with class and power. Diaghilev opens initially with a fleeting array of citrus, most prominently a bitter orange, alongside an intensely sharp and spicy note of cumin. From here, the dominant note of civet takes over - it’s sour and animalic, challenging and dirty, and yet it works beautifully. The warm spiciness deepens as clove and nutmeg join the cumin, alongside earthy patchouli and a robust leather. After some time, the soft touch of powdery florals and subtle peach gently balance the rest of the notes beautifully, making way for the star of the show - oakmoss. The oakmoss here is creamy, earthy, buttery and utterly delightful. It blends gorgeously with the rest of the notes and develops into a truly classic chypre base. I don’t agree with the comparisons to Mitsouko - they are both classic chypres but that is where the similarity ends. Diaghilev takes the classic scent profile and elevates it with the addition of animalic leather and civet. This scent is opulent and lavish, it smells incredibly expensive and old school, and it will definitely not be to everyone’s taste. This is one of Roja’s most challenging fragrances and while it has limited wearability and versatility, it is truly a work of art and a modern masterpiece.
Les Clochettes du Bonheur is the cream of the crop when it comes to lily-of-the-valley perfumes. It opens straight away with an overdose of naturally beautiful lily-of-the-valley, in all its green and soapy glory. Ylang and jasmine provide back up to intensify the sweet floral goodness while a powdery note of lilac sets into the background. There’s a certain freshness likely from the bergamot, resting on a soft base of creamy sandalwood. But it must be noted all these supporting notes only rest in the background, as lily-of-the-valley is the star of the show - some might say it’s the only discernible note in here. This is easily the highest quality lily-of-the-valley fragrance I’ve ever smelled and really wowed me when I first tried it on skin. Despite seeming to be a relatively simple perfume, it demonstrates just how much depth and character such an overlooked note can have. This won’t be for everyone and I don’t think it’s a fragrance I would buy but I appreciate it for what it is and think it demonstrates incredible perfumery.
Pierre de Velay Amour is brilliant sweet and powdery chypre, blended to perfection. It opens with a thick and creamy combination of ylang and violet which is almost candy-like, with rose, heliotrope and white florals in the background. There’s also a very faint fizz from the bergamot and lime. As it settles on the skin, the iconic note of creamy oakmoss presents itself in typical chypre fashion, alongside a spicy ginger and sweet saffron. These are the primary notes which make up the scent profile, as with all of Roja’s creations there’s a lot going on in the background. Amour takes the classic French chypre and sweetens it significantly, becoming slightly reminiscent of Parma Violets. It’s soft, creamy, powdery and delicious - creating an addicting and alluring sillage. It reminds me of RDHP15 which follows the same violet-dominated chypre accord, but here there is no peach and instead is much sweeter with vanilla. Overall a fantastic creation.
While I find PG to be an interesting house with a vast range of bold and esoteric fragrances, I also find that 9 times out of 10 there's a snag with the scent. There's usually some sort of off, synthetic note that puts me off, and/or very poor performance (for example Arabian Horse is wonderful but I can't justify 260 euros for something that becomes a skin scent after 10 minutes). París Fidji does what Pierre Guillaume does better than the rest, at least for me. It has the classic gourmand but not a gourmand, one or two note overdose style of the house, and makes for an addictive, sumptuous, creamy sandlewood glow. Others here have called it tropical or summery, I'd say it transcends season or temperature. There's an aspect of the orange burst opening that recalls Frédéric Malle's Bigarade Concentré, but this has more legs and more depth. It's everything I wanted BC to be.
Maybe it's my nose, I think it is, but when a perfume contains ambroxide, I can't usually get past it, with one or two exceptions. Sadly this falls into the broader category of aggressive ambroxide nightmares. I can see why it might appeal, and it's certainly less obnoxious than Sauvage, but it has the heacachey, chemical mire I've come to detest in designer and niche fragrances alike.
Similar to Chanel No 5 EDT, but cheaper and easier to wear. No 5 has a sharp, acerbic edge which belongs in an era when it was acceptable for a feminine fragrance to choke everyone out and make their eyes water. This is a softer, more modern approach to the same idea, albeit with almost as heroic and challenging a blast of aldehydes in the opening. The difference is the abundance of florals and citrus which accompany the abrasive chemical side. Everything is discernable here, and unilike no 5 I don't wince at the OTT scratchiness. Needless to say I prefer this, and so does my wallet. Update: Now my bottle has had a few days to macerate, the perfume has blossomed. Instead of BAM ALDEHYDES IN YO FACE, it's a less histrionic, smoother mix of sparkle, citrus and florals, with a very dainty bed of patchouli carrying it. FYI I have the new formulation and it's great. I'm not familiar with the old, and I don't see the point of bleating on about the differences and/or the fact it's lost...this phenomena is part and parcel of perfumery, suck it up.
Kemi’s Kemi and ‘ilm layered OLD VERSIONS and comparing the notes between old and new (In depth reviews later): 🔥 ‘Ilm’s exceptional bold and edgy character is balancing Kemi’s sweet and a bit gooey Caramel. This combination is brash! It’s all about oud with sickly sweet synthetic Caramel but it works. 🔥 Notes of ‘ILM mentioned earlier (and now from Xerjoff’s web page) TOP: Aged Indian Assam Oud (Gurjum Balsam From Thailand , Australian Sandalwood , Oud Buaya From Laos) MIDDLE: Bangladesh Oud (Cedar From Atlas , Ambergris , Oakmoss , Oud Buaya From Laos) BASE: Laos Oud (Amber , Oud Buaya From Laos) This mine is really Oud, Oud and Oud and it’s hard to believe that the scent would be totally same. I’m so curious to get the samples of new ones and compare them. (Edit: I have seen people comparing them and it seems they are not the same anymore) 🔥 And KEMI TOP: Cedar from Atlas, Laotian agarwood (Oud) MIDDLE: Gurjum Balsam, Caramel, Castoreum, Civet BASE: Australian Sandalwood, Vanilla from Madagascar, wood notes Mentioned notes differs now surprisingly: There is not anymore mentioned Caramel at all which is so strange and there is Cedar From Atlas in the middle notes as well.
Kemi’s Kemi and ‘ilm layered (In depth reviews later): 🔥 ‘Ilm’s exceptional bold and edgy character is balancing Kemi’s sweet and a bit gooey Caramel. This combination is brash! It’s all about oud with sickly sweet synthetic Caramel but it works. 🔥 Notes of ‘ILM mentioned earlier (and now from Xerjoff’s web page) TOP: Aged Indian Assam Oud (Gurjum Balsam From Thailand , Australian Sandalwood , Oud Buaya From Laos) MIDDLE: Bangladesh Oud (Cedar From Atlas , Ambergris , Oakmoss , Oud Buaya From Laos) BASE: Laos Oud (Amber , Oud Buaya From Laos) This mine is really Oud, Oud and Oud and it’s hard to believe that the scent would be totally same. I’m so curious to get the samples of new ones and compare them. 🔥 And KEMI TOP: Cedar from Atlas, Laotian agarwood (Oud) MIDDLE: Gurjum Balsam, Caramel, Castoreum, Civet BASE: Australian Sandalwood, Vanilla from Madagascar, wood notes Mentioned notes differs now surprisingly: There is not anymore mentioned Caramel at all which is so strange and there is Cedar From Atlas in the middle notes as well.
KEMI BLENDING MAGIC Owner Sergio Momo Nose: Chris Maurice Discontinued Relaunched under Xerjoff’s K Collection, they differ (at least these ones) from the original ones. There seems to be even less the real Oud if any and for example one of the main notes - Caramel - is not even mentioned in the notes of Kemi in K collection. Some perfumes which I love in summertime. I know, the most of the people don’t wear these kind of heavy ones in hot but on my skin these are best on warm weather. 🔥 KEMI(released originally 2014) Top: Cedar, Laotian agarwood (Oud) Middle: Gurjum Balsam, Caramel, Castoreum, Civet Base: Sandalwood, Vanilla, wood notes I have some obsession with caramel notes in summertime and in this concoction, I just can’t resist it. It’s so amazing now when it melts on my skin. This smells exactly how you can imagine because of the notes: woody, oudy, sensual, animalic, soft, sweet and addictive. It’s well blended and enjoyable. 🔥 ‘ilm (2014) Arabic word for “knowledge” Very challenging and barnyardy Indian Assam oud Oud from Bangladesh Oud from Laos “It is an unfathomable combination of different types of oud wood with their heavy, brown, earthy, and slumbering smell, evoking a sense of age and wisdom. ‘ilm opens with the fruity dimension imparted by the loudness of oud wood. The fruity dimension also imparts tobacco-like features to the solid and mystical oud and makes it enchantingly mysterious. Dark, yet bright and promising, heavy, yet full of passion, like knowledge that is unattainable, which once possessed bestows to its bearer all the secrets of the universe.“ ❗️And no, I don’t believe or think that this is real Oud. There is a little hint of those and the rest is something else but I enjoy it regardless. Real Ouds and synthetic blends are totally different categories for sure. My thoughts on “Ouds” is well said in Ensar Oud website: “The perfume industry has flooded the market with synthetic oud aroma chemicals, watering down and convoluting the legacy of oud with their shallow and linear plantation ouds. To be blunt, most brands starting to use the term are just milking the cash cow that is the growing trend and vast market of wealthy Arab and Middle-eastern nations given their affinity towards everything oud, and nothing to do with appreciation of the fine aromatic. The use of oud as a term has never been more widespread, nor has the quality ever been so low. For commercial purposes, oud is any ratio of the lowest grade ‘agarwood oil’ in combination with any other oil, be it of natural or synthetic origin.” Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
KEMI BLENDING MAGIC Owner Sergio Momo Nose: Chris Maurice Discontinued Relaunched under Xerjoff’s K Collection, they (at least these ones) differ from the original ones. There seems to be even less real Oud if any and for example one of the main notes - Caramel - is not even mentioned in the notes of Kemi in K collection. Some perfumes which I love in summertime. I know, the most of the people don’t wear these kind of heavy ones in hot but on my skin these are best on warm weather. KEMI (released originally 2014) Top: Cedar, Laotian agarwood (Oud) Middle: Gurjum Balsam, Caramel, Castoreum, Civet Base: Sandalwood, Vanilla, wood notes I have some obsession with caramel notes in summertime and in this concoction, I just can’t resist it. It’s so amazing now when it melts on my skin. This smells exactly how you can imagine because of the notes: woody, oudy, sensual, animalic, soft, sweet and addictive. It’s well blended and enjoyable. ‘ilm (2014) Arabic word for “knowledge” Very challenging and barnyardy Indian Assam oud Oud from Bangladesh Oud from Laos “It is an unfathomable combination of different types of oud wood with their heavy, brown, earthy, and slumbering smell, evoking a sense of age and wisdom. ‘ilm opens with the fruity dimension imparted by the loudness of oud wood. The fruity dimension also imparts tobacco-like features to the solid and mystical oud and makes it enchantingly mysterious. Dark, yet bright and promising, heavy, yet full of passion, like knowledge that is unattainable, which once possessed bestows to its bearer all the secrets of the universe.“ ️And no, I don’t believe or think that this is real Oud. There is a little hint of those and the rest is something else but I enjoy it regardless. Real Ouds and synthetic blends are totally different categories for sure. My thoughts on “Ouds” is well said in Ensar Oud website: “The perfume industry has flooded the market with synthetic oud aroma chemicals, watering down and convoluting the legacy of oud with their shallow and linear plantation ouds. To be blunt, most brands starting to use the term are just milking the cash cow that is the growing trend and vast market of wealthy Arab and Middle-eastern nations given their affinity towards everything oud, and nothing to do with appreciation of the fine aromatic. The use of oud as a term has never been more widespread, nor has the quality ever been so low. For commercial purposes, oud is any ratio of the lowest grade ‘agarwood oil’ in combination with any other oil, be it of natural or synthetic origin.” Thank you for reading and I would appreciate if you follow me IG @ninamariah_perfumes
KEMI BLENDING MAGIC Owner Sergio Momo Nose: Chris Maurice Discontinued Relaunched under Xerjoff’s K Collection, they (at least these ones) differ from the original ones. There seems to be even less real Oud if any and for example one of the main notes - Caramel - is not even mentioned in the notes of Kemi in K collection. Some perfumes which I love in summertime. I know, the most of the people don’t wear these kind of heavy ones in hot but on my skin these are best on warm weather. 🔥 KEMI (released originally 2014) Top: Cedar, Laotian agarwood (Oud) Middle: Gurjum Balsam, Caramel, Castoreum, Civet Base: Sandalwood, Vanilla, wood notes I have some obsession with caramel notes in summertime and in this concoction, I just can’t resist it. It’s so amazing now when it melts on my skin. This smells exactly how you can imagine because of the notes: woody, oudy, sensual, animalic, soft, sweet and addictive. It’s well blended and enjoyable. 🔥 ‘ilm (2014) Arabic word for “knowledge” Very challenging and barnyardy Indian Assam oud Oud from Bangladesh Oud from Laos “It is an unfathomable combination of different types of oud wood with their heavy, brown, earthy, and slumbering smell, evoking a sense of age and wisdom. ‘ilm opens with the fruity dimension imparted by the loudness of oud wood. The fruity dimension also imparts tobacco-like features to the solid and mystical oud and makes it enchantingly mysterious. Dark, yet bright and promising, heavy, yet full of passion, like knowledge that is unattainable, which once possessed bestows to its bearer all the secrets of the universe.“ ❗️And no, I don’t believe or think that this is real Oud. There is a little hint of those and the rest is something else but I enjoy it regardless. Real Ouds and synthetic blends are totally different categories for sure. My thoughts on “Ouds” is well said in Ensar Oud website: “The perfume industry has flooded the market with synthetic oud aroma chemicals, watering down and convoluting the legacy of oud with their shallow and linear plantation ouds. To be blunt, most brands starting to use the term are just milking the cash cow that is the growing trend and vast market of wealthy Arab and Middle-eastern nations given their affinity towards everything oud, and nothing to do with appreciation of the fine aromatic. The use of oud as a term has never been more widespread, nor has the quality ever been so low. For commercial purposes, oud is any ratio of the lowest grade ‘agarwood oil’ in combination with any other oil, be it of natural or synthetic origin.” Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
I love roses. I love them bright and I love them dark, airy and heavy, red and green, sweet and sour, powdery and crystal clear, fresh and dried ones. I love all of them! Zemfira is a beautiful somehow light and bright (but with good performance) Rose Oud which you can wear easily year around. Fresh natural smelling roses are stars with mild oud in the background. Unlike the first collections, this 4th collection is floriental and has no animal ingredients except ambergris in it. Other parfums in this collection are Sir Winston and Symphonie de Néroli. This is a well-made rose perfume with citrus and honey shades in the base. It’s not sweet anyway or in any kind of way “jammy” like some people like to say which I think is an expression for very sweet and mellow rose mostly with Vanilla. I can’t describe well enough that intoxicating feeling which I get from this from the evocative opening until the dry down but it’s unique. I think it’s somewhat tart undertone which is one of the charasteristics of Vietnamese Oud. I have many rose perfumes and have tried a lot of them, this is one of a kind. If you like powerful and extremely persistent rose perfumes with a very light honey-oriental sillage, I think you will love this one. This is very easy level entry to Ouds but it’s noticeable though. 🌹Top notes: Bergamot and Pink pepper 🌹Middle notes: Rose de Mai, Hybrid Tea rose and Atlas cedar 🌹Base notes: Bengal sandalwood and Vietnamese Oud Thank you for reading and I would appreciate if you follow me IG @ninamariah_perfumes
Pierre de Velay No. 47 is pure prestige and animalic power in a bottle. Initially it opens with a slightly fecal and bitter castoreum with a beautifully smooth violet leaf to contrast this. The musk note in here reminds me a lot of Musk Aoud - it’s that same sweet and floral ambrette, however here it’s much more animalic due to the castoreum. Powerful tolu balsam soon emerges which is slightly dirty in the most brilliant way, alongside a sharp note of civet. This fragrance isn’t all about the animalics however, as it’s perfectly balanced with sweet birch, saffron and vanilla in the base - alongside the iconic Chypré trio: oakmoss, patchouli and labdanum. You may not realise while smelling it, but this scent is structured as a very classic Chypré would be - just elevated by Roja’s additions of animalic notes, balsam and violet leaf. This is one of the more challenging releases from the Pierre de Velay line, however is an absolute masterpiece if you enjoy high quality animalic fragrances.
Pierre de Velay No. 6 is a beautifully unique and mature creation which combines fougere characteristics with balsamic ambery accords. It opens with sharp citrus of lemon and bergamot, accompanied by herbal aromatics of bay leaf and sage before a pungent green note of davana takes charge. Subdued florals of rose, jasmine and ylang provide that signature Roja sparkle as the scent settles. A realistic juniper note emerges which is very reminiscent of fir trees here, which combines gorgeously with ambery balsamic notes of benzoin, olibanum, elemi and styrax. There’s a hint of warm, spicy clove and nutmeg alongside an animalic leathery castoreum, smoothed out perfectly by an earthy orris. This is such a complex and unique scent, a creation that probably wouldn’t sell too well outside of an exclusive range such as Pierre de Velay. However if you’ve got a taste for aromatics and balsamic notes then this is fantastic, it definitely stands out and demonstrates just how talented Roja Dove is.
Pierre de Velay No. 4 is a boozy, aromatic amber with a lot of depth and character. Right from the initial spray you’re greeted by a punchy rum accord which is somehow smooth yet bitter at the same time. This is accompanied by ultra-realistic aromatics of bay leaf and sage which add a contrasting herbaceous quality to the rum. As it settles on the skin, warm cardamom and creamy sandalwood emerge as the rum powers on. A soft rose is present in the heart, which is only very subtle but adds that gentle softness to round everything out. The rum, bay leaf, cardamom and sage are the most prominent notes in the scent which all rest on the base of a classic amber accord - made up of benzoin, vanilla and labdanum. Combining a boozy accord with herbaceous notes is a brave and unconventional creative choice, however Roja has executed it perfectly here. This is such a unique and addicting scent profile with one of the best rum accords I’ve smelled - it also goes without saying that the quality of ingredients is impeccable as you’d expect. A true masterpiece.
Levant is an attractive and delicate citrus-floral which is both feminine and subdued. It opens with a sweet and airy rose, alongside bergamot and mandarin to give it that juicy sharpness before developing a heart of heady florals - namely lily of the valley, peony and orange blossom. This is the primary structure of the scent which is fresh and revitalising but gentle at the same time. It all rests on a soft base of subtle musk and ethereal cedar, which isn’t very prominent. This is not a very strong fragrance, it sits quite close to the skin and would only really be smelled by those who come into close contact with you. It leans more feminine as all the florals are very delicate and almost soapy - this fragrance is pretty and enjoyable to smell, but I find it easily forgettable and generic.
Absolutely disgusting!
I really don’t know if there is even one perfume which I don’t like from Parfums Dusita. I haven’t tried all of them but almost and I have 8 beautiful Pissara’s creations for now. Many of Dusitas open up in a little bit pungent way which doesn’t last long before changing into something amazing. That you have to know if just testing quickly and it’s good to bear in mind as well that these perfumes need a warm skin to perform perfectly so don’t judge based on test strip. Issara opens up with a hazy and soft, sweet aromatic and a little bit greenish scent. It’s very pleasant, fluffy and surprisingly subtle considering that it’s a parfum concentration. This is so calming and indulgent that I like to wear this if I feel stressed or I have had somehow uncomfortable day. Sometimes I wish that it would be stronger but if that would be the case I think the desirable smooth “zen feeling” would be ruined. It’s really hard to think that this scent would bother someone near you: this is definitely office safe but not energising, this is rather something you could wear if having a speech for a big audience. Issara is in the same kind of unisex than all other Dusitas: on my skin it performs brighter and sweeter and on my husband’s skin it’s darker and more woody. In the dry down this is really soft musky, not mossy, earthy and dry like Oakmoss mostly performs. Beautiful scent! I really don’t know from where those notes has came into fragrantica but correct notes are: - Pine needles, herbal notes - Tonka Bean absolute, Clary Sage, Vertiver Bourbon, Sylvester Pine Leaf - Musk, rich Ambergris, a woody Oakmoss It’s really sad that you can’t trust the notes here. Thank you for reading and I would appreciate if you follow me IG @ninamariah_perfumes
I really don’t know if there is even one perfume which I don’t like from Parfums Dusita. I haven’t tried all of them but almost and I have 8 beautiful Pissara’s creations for now. Many of Dusitas open up in a little bit pungent way which doesn’t last long before changing into something amazing. That you have to know if just testing quickly and it’s good to bear in mind as well that these perfumes need a warm skin to perform perfectly so don’t judge based on test strip. Issara opens up with a hazy and soft, sweet aromatic and a little bit greenish scent. It’s very pleasant, fluffy and surprisingly subtle considering that it’s a parfum concentration. This is so calming and indulgent that I like to wear this if I feel stressed or I have had somehow uncomfortable day. Sometimes I wish that it would be stronger but if that would be the case I think the desirable smooth “zen feeling” would be ruined. It’s really hard to think that this scent would bother someone near you: this is definitely office safe but not energising, this is rather something you could wear if having a speech for a big audience. Issara is in the same kind of unisex than all other Dusitas: on my skin it performs brighter and sweeter and on my husband’s skin it’s darker and more woody. In the dry down this is really soft musky, not mossy, earthy and dry like Oakmoss mostly performs. I really don’t know from where those notes has came into fragrantica but correct notes are: - Pine needles, herbal notes - Tonka Bean absolute, Clary Sage, Vertiver Bourbon, Sylvester Pine Leaf - Musk, rich Ambergris, a woody Oakmoss It’s really sad that you can’t trust the notes here. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
Evernia takes the idea of a classic Chypre fragrance and transforms it into something gorgeously fruity and spicy. It opens with a fabulous note of bergamot combined with an array of tantalising warm spices including cassis, cardamom, pink pepper and coriander. In the heart you’re greeted by an array of thick, heady florals such as orris, lily of the valley, freesia, violet and rose. This is a beautiful combination which pairs perfectly with the spicy notes of the opening. The base is then comprised of a musky oakmoss and cashmeran, with a heavy dose of Iso E Super which gives the scent its addictive quality. This is a fantastic fragrance from Ormonde Jayne which really took me by surprise. There’s so much going on here and it takes you on a wonderful journey from start to finish. A really underrated scent overall.
Qi is a pleasant fresh floral fragrance with an addicting tea note. It opens initially with lemon blossom which gives the impression of sharp citrus, but has that soft white floral touch. This is combined with gentle neroli and freesia which adds a clean airiness. The tea note is prominent right from the opening too, and is the dominant note throughout the scent. It’s a sweet and addicting tea note which combines very nicely with the osmanthus, hedione and rose. In the base, the tea is made ever so slightly earthy as the mate presents itself, which rests gently on a bed of musk and benzoin. This is one of the better summery freshies from Ormonde Jayne as I find it’s got a bit more character than the others I’ve tried, however it still doesn’t blow me away.
Banging mango scent with a base reminiscent of BR540
Champaca is a very light and delicate scent which is inoffensive and clean. It initially opens with a contrasting combination of soft neroli and sharp pink pepper, before the champaca itself becomes present which is sweet and a bit fruity. From here, freesia adds a powdery white floral touch in combination with the neroli, while green tea emerges very gently. However, I’m not sure how you can really vote for the notes of bamboo and rice, who even knows what they smell like? Overall, this fragrance is very pleasant on the nose - gentle, clean and inoffensive while still remaining fairly interesting. For me though it’s simply too weak, disappears very quickly and isn’t very memorable unfortunately.
Osmanthus from Ormonde Jayne is a tropical fruity and floral scent which is great for the summer. It utilises the unique note of pomelo at the forefront of the scent, which is reminiscent of grapefruit with a hint of mango, alongside the star of the show which is osmanthus - with its milky apricot accord. From here it has a gentle heart of white florals, namely water lily and jasmine, which are delicate and elegant. There’s a slight spiciness from the pimento as it settles into a musky base of cedar and labdanum. This is a very pleasant fruity floral scent and works really well in the warmer weather, however it’s very gentle and lacks some much needed depth and character. Overall a very pleasant fragrance but not worth the retail price.
Jasmin Kusamono is the epitome of a fresh and clean jasmine-forward scent. Initially it opens very fresh and fruity from the Nashi Pear, with a sharp kick from the pink pepper. However, within seconds you’re greeted by a powerful and dominant jasmine note which is thick and soapy. The heart is comprised of a trio of classic white florals - lily of the valley, orange blossom and most importantly jasmine which takes the forefront. These rest on a creamy, musky base of sandalwood to give it some lasting power. This isn’t necessarily a complex scent, however it’s a fantastic option for lovers of jasmine and has surprisingly good longevity for a fragrance as fresh as this. Jasmine has been my mother’s favourite smell for all of her life and so this scent will be a gift to her, so that she can smell it wherever she goes.
Jupiter is a very interesting fragrance which seems to change throughout its life. Initially it opens up green and earthy from the davana, patchouli and vetiver, before a powerful oud and dark incense take charge backed up by a leathery labdanum. There’s also a sweetness coming in from the saffron. From here you’d expect the fragrance to stay quite linear but the scent changes depending how close you are to it. Upon smelling my arm into the dry down, I’m still greeted by a slightly abrasive oud and incense combination with earthy patchouli. However when it comes to the sillage around me I pick up much more of the sweet, musky ambrette and salty ambergris. Initially I was going to sell this on however the musky sillage captured my attention and so it’s earned it’s place in my collection. At times I get whiffs of it in the air and am reminded ever so slightly of a lower quality, more affordable version of Roja’s Musk Aoud - but with a much more prominent use of oud.
