Harsh, synthetic, too much. Same elements as Aventus in principle, but I'm wearing one on each arm, and Aventus is infinitely better. Hacivat has good performance, but so does Aventus, and given the price of Hacivat, why bother 😒? It has none of the finesse or shimmer of Aventus, it's just thick, oily, screaming and suffocating.
Crab Apple Blossom doesn’t exactly smell how you’d expect, unfortunately not in the best way either. It opens with a sharp bergamot alongside a minty, alcoholic mojito accord which is aromatic and summery. There’s also a strong aquatic marine accord which transports you by the sea as you’re sipping said mojito. A tart fruitiness of rhubarb soon emerges, alongside a heavy dose of soft white florals which I can only assume is primarily the apple blossom. This all rests on smooth, masculine woods to create a unique but mass appealing scent profile. This is a pleasant fragrance, and a good use of apple blossom which you don’t see often. Unfortunately, it feels like it’s lacking something for me - it’s not as exciting as it should be and leaves you wanting more. A very pleasant fragrance but not for £400.
Town & Country is a fresh, invigorating and sophisticated fragrance for a modern gentleman. With a refreshing and vibrant opening of lemon and juniper, it begins almost as a citric cocktail of juicy aromatics. The clary sage comes through soon after which is slightly powdery and green, before making way for more complex notes. The lemon and juniper persist as white tea and sandalwood bring this comforting creaminess to the scent profile, alongside some warmth from cardamom. In the base, there’s a subtle hint of a salty ambergris, with an array of masculine woods and patchouli. The overall scent you’re left smells purely like spring. I can see why Winston Churchill wore this as his signature scent, it smells expensive, classy, gentlemanly and powerful all at the same time. A classic fragrance demonstrating true British perfumery for the upper class. I do think this is overpriced massively, but cost aside it does smell incredible.
Spice and Wood is another pleasant but hugely overpriced release from Creed. It opens with this juicy lemon and apple combination, with copious amounts of black pepper - almost enough to make you sneeze! To me, the opening is the most pleasant part of the fragrance, but unfortunately it only lasts for about a minute. From here, some clove emerges alongside dry woods of birch and cedar. There’s also a damp earthiness coming from the patchouli and oakmoss which elevates the woods. The green notes take this even further until it smells like you’re stood in a peppery forest. This fragrance definitely delivers on its name, the woods and the spices are the dominant features of the scent. For me, the pepper is simply too much and comes off quite abrasive, while the rest of the scent is pleasant but quite unimaginative and forgettable.
An exquisite rose-oud fragrance. I get absolutely none of the faecal skank, for me it's medicinal and oily, slightly petrol-like, but no barnyard element. The drydown is almost leather-like. Update: this really is a magical journey every time I wear it, possibly my favourite perfume.
Leaving this for a couple of months after the first spray did wonders. I was very underwhelmed at first sniff, but now it's developed and I get the chocolaty, spicy undercurrent, which makes it warm and special. So so cheap too!
Wild Incense isn’t really incense based at all to be honest. It opens with a sharp, resinous frankincense and a boozy cognac note which is both sweet and bitter. The sticky, syrupy dates soon emerge which adds a significant amount of sweetness, alongside tonka bean. A soft, smooth leather runs along the background which is quite pleasant, while the frankincense gives almost a hint of a smoky tobacco accord. This fragrance is quite interesting and enjoyable in the opening, but dries down to something much less exciting. Unfortunately after some time it settles into a basic sweet fragrance with average quality. I was expecting better given the retail price, and the note breakdown got me really excited initially. It’s a nice fragrance, but I think I got my hopes up a bit too much.
I feel like I judged Wild Incense too quickly, as I sold my bottle not long after receiving it to make space for a different fragrance. But now, almost a year later, it’s made its way back into my collection - and I welcome it with open arms. I’m unashamed to say I now love this fragrance. I stand by what I said about this not being incense based at all, it’s definitely a pure gourmand - as well as the fact that it doesn’t smell particularly high quality, but somehow that seems part of its charm. To my nose it smells like fat, sticky dates swirling round a glass of cognac with a brand new leather jacket resting on the table beside said glass. It’s utterly delicious, with a gorgeously creamy base of tonka to finish it off. In the background, a very subtle medley of frankincense, benzoin and guaiac wood seem to give off this dry, balsamic, slightly smoky quality which almost comes across as the faintest whiff of coffee in the distance. Either way, I smell delectable wearing this, and this time it’s here to stay.
A nauseating blend of rotting fruit and blackcurrant Airwaves chewing gum. Ghastly.
I felt that I needed something easy into my collection. Something classy yet comfortable and cozy, something delicate and not so unique. Sometimes I feel so exhausted that I don’t even have power to understand my own mood. If I wear some bold scent with a big character while feeling like that I just get confused. With NR’s scents I don’t have to think absolutely anything, no weather, neither clothes, not even how I really feel. I fell in love with so many scents from NR while trying to find something inconspicuous, almost imperceptible yet attractive and sensual. I love the powdery clean musky dna in them, they are like a tender hug, I feel like I’m wrapped in a enormous fluffy cashmere blanket escaping this cruel world. Musc Noir Rose has a sweet twist in it from Plum and Vanilla. Rose is more noticeable than in others but it’s not “noir” in any kind of way and it’s not so natural smelling Rose, it rather stays very abstract. All NRs smells very light on skin but irresistible on cloths. I will write the reviews of others later in the near future. Thank you for reading and I would appreciate a lot if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
I felt that I needed something easy into my collection. Something classy yet comfortable and cozy, something delicate and not so unique. Sometimes I feel so exhausted that I don’t even have power to understand my own mood. If I wear some bold scent with a big character while feeling like that I just get confused. With these two scents I don’t have to think absolutely anything, no weather, neither clothes, not even how I really feel. ❓Do you recognize that mood? NARCISO RODRIGUEZ Musk Noir Rose Sonia Constant 2022 I fell in love with so many scents from NR while trying to find something inconspicuous, almost imperceptible yet attractive and sensual. I love the powdery clean musky dna in them, they are like a tender hug, I feel like I’m wrapped in a enormous fluffy cashmere blanket escaping this cruel world. Musc Noir Rose has a sweet twist in it from Plum and Vanilla. All of them smells irresistible on cloths. CHANEL Coco Noir Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake 2012 Delightful very crowd pleasing mix of flowers in a warm woody base - I don’t find anything so “noir” in this one but there is a gentle breeze of warm spices. The scent is seductive and traditionally feminine. It’s delightful but it doesn’t force me to be in a good mood. I want an extrait of this one as well since it shoud have that “noir” confidence boost in it. Haven’t tried it though. The in-depth reviews will follow. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
Okay so ETRO is a brand of supreme quality and ideas. Let's get that out of the way. Sadly overlooked by me and it would appear many others, although plenty of collectors and pals I respect have them in their collections which always made me think they would be worth their salt. I'm saying this as if I never tried them, I did!!! Way back in the day too! When there was only really Serge and L'artisan and Mona and such...ETRO was a brand I tried and went....'yeah they're alright' What a shortsighted numpty I was because they have some things I've simply never smelled before and a sort of outlying, vintage, sensibility which says ETRO don't really give a shit about what's cool or dare I say what sells!?!? (I'm sure they do care about that to a degree) Shaal nur is an aromatic, herbal perfume which smells 'old' (my sample is somewhat vintage) open and translucent, almost modern in that sense but 'OLD' the aromatics giving way to a masculine leaning, woody musk. I hate to be so vague in my description of a perfume I really think is excellent but I genuinely can't pick out notes or accords as such. It all hangs together very well. Not spellbound, but I'm happy!
TRADITIONAL CHYPRES 🍁 Amouage Jubilation XXV 2007 There is missing some main elements of Chypre scent here but it performs very similarly like Chypre anyway. This is soft and Ambery, very refined. The warmest of these all. 🍁 Guerlain Mitsouko 1919 Mossy and earthy, new epd is a little bit sharp while my new extrait is soft and more round, polished. I used to layer them to get the best from both. This new epd is the most dry of these ones. An extrait version of Mitsouko, even if it’s the most recent one, is mesmerizing, rich and intoxicating blend. It’s very different than edp where the beautiful sweetness from Peach is very faint and a deep, mellow, mossy base is just earthy and very dry. Extrait is so amazing and evocative definitely one of the best Chypres. I highly recommend that one, there is a huge difference between those concentrations. 🍁 Rochas Femme 1944 A little bit more fruity than others, beautiful Plum, Peach and Apricot brings a gentle sweetness. Feels smoky/earthy after the opening but not for long time. Performs darker on my husband’s skin than on mine. 🍁 Roja Parfums Diaghilev 2010 Very strong and majestic dark blend, a challenging to wear for many. This one definitely needs the right kind of clothes, otherwise you look and smell totally ridiculous. Sharp and spicy, leathery and musky, the most masculine of these ones, actually there is nothing feminine in this. Very complex. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
I have some scents - like a pair- which are perfect to wear for couples. ❤️ This is the first pair. The best classical timeless Chypres inspired by vintage Mitsouko! ✨ If you want to buy a totally new bottle and the budget is not limited I highly recommend to try these ones before buying a new version of Mitsouko or Rochas Femme. Those are nice as well but these are so incredible amazing ones with extraordinary quality! The classy well blended complexity which is hard to find. ROJA PARFUMS 🖤 DIAGHILEV Very strong and majestic, deep and rich blend, a challenging to wear for many. This one definitely needs the right kind of clothes, otherwise you look and smell totally ridiculous. Yet, I see in my eyes a handsome man after a bath in Versace bathrobe. 🤩 Sharp and spicy, leathery and musky, mossy with a gentle touch of animalics - everything in this scent is heavy. So GORGEOUS! Main notes: - Lemon, Bergamot, Lime, Orange, Tarragon - Jasmin de Grasse, Tuberose, Heliotrope, Violet, Blackcurrant Buds, Peach - Patchouli, Oakmoss, Benzoin, Labdanum, Leather 💜 CHYPRÉ EXTRAORDINAIRE Soft and fruity, sophisticated and subtle, very refined yet addictive and complex beautiful scent. This is brighter and lighter (not weak) than Diaghilev and a little bit sweet. This is like a sun and Diaghilev is like a moon. This is like a queen and Diaghilev is like a king. There is amazing mossy base with Civet and Musk but animalic vibe is absence. Totally in love with this delicate yet well projecting scent. Definitely a year around scent for me. Main notes: - Bergamot - Tuberose, Ylang Ylang, Peach, Plum - Moss Base, Cedarwood, Sandalwood The in depth reviews coming later! Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
TRADITIONAL CHYPRES 🍁 Amouage Jubilation XXV 2007 There is missing some main elements of Chypre scent here but it performs very similarly like Chypre anyway. This is soft and Ambery, very refined. The warmest of these all. 🍁 Guerlain Mitsouko 1919 Mossy and earthy, new epd is a little bit sharp while my new extrait is soft and more round, polished. I used to layer them to get the best from both. This new epd is the most dry of these ones. An extrait version of Mitsouko, even if it’s the most recent one, is mesmerizing, rich and intoxicating blend. It’s very different than edp where the beautiful sweetness from Peach is very faint and a deep, mellow, mossy base is just earthy and very dry. Extrait is so amazing and evocative definitely one of the best Chypres. I highly recommend that one, there is a huge difference between those concentrations. 🍁 Rochas Femme 1944 A little bit more fruity than others, beautiful Plum, Peach and Apricot brings a gentle sweetness. Feels smoky/earthy after the opening but not for long time. Performs darker on my husband’s skin than on mine. 🍁 Roja Parfums Diaghilev 2010 Very strong and majestic dark blend, a challenging to wear for many. This one definitely needs the right kind of clothes, otherwise you look and smell totally ridiculous. Sharp and spicy, leathery@and musky, the most masculine of these ones, actually there is nothing feminine in this. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
TRADITIONAL CHYPRES 🍁 Amouage Jubilation XXV 2007 There is missing some main elements of Chypre scent here but it performs very similarly like Chypre anyway. This is soft and Ambery, very refined. The warmest of these all. 🍁 Guerlain Mitsouko 1919 Mossy and earthy, new epd is a little bit sharp while my new extrait is soft and more round, polished. I used to layer them to get the best from both. This new epd is the most dry of these ones. This extrait version of Mitsouko, even if it’s the most recent one, is mesmerizing, rich and intoxicating blend. It’s very different than edp where the beautiful sweetness from Peach is very faint and a deep, mellow, mossy base is just earthy and very dry. Extrait is so amazing and evocative definitely one of the best Chypres. I highly recommend that one, there is a huge difference between those concentrations. 🍁 Rochas Femme 1944 A little bit more fruity than others, beautiful Plum, Peach and Apricot brings a gentle sweetness. Feels smoky/earthy after the opening but not for long time. Performs darker on my husband’s skin than on mine. 🍁 Roja Parfums Diaghilev 2010 Very strong and majestic dark blend, a challenging to wear for many. This one definitely needs the right kind of clothes, otherwise you look and smell totally ridiculous. Sharp and spicy, leathery@and musky, the most masculine of these ones, actually there is nothing feminine in this. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
AZMAN (Creator Husen Khan from India) 🥀Two Minutes After The Kiss Extrait de Parfum CRISTIANO CANALI Unisex Two Minutes After The Kiss is Azman’s first perfume. It’s very beautiful Rose Oud but it’s much more than that. It’s a mysterious blend where roses are surrounded by Pepper, Cardamom and Frankincense before it develops into a lush, passionate and sensual heart which is very rich with Patchouli and Oud. Some day you will notice more Beeswax and some day more Myrrh and not only the depth of the leather is changing like a chameleon but also creamy Sandalwood and Vetiver are performing in many different ways. The translucent rose blushes and pushes itself under the balsamic smoke of the luxurious Oud and it’s captivating and inviting. An amazing blend is very desperately romantic, it’s like an endless love. It is dark and sentimental, a little bit wistful, like the long night witch arrives after the sunset. It’s strong yet safe to wear, I liked it a lot even during hot summertime. It never turned out too brash despite it’s dense and complex character. TOP: Turkish rose, Jamaican Pepper, Omani Frankincense, Guatemala Cardamom HEART: Turkish Rose absolute, Laos Oud, Indonesian Patchouly, Somalian Myrrh, French Beeswax , Selectone BASE: Indian Sandalwood, Haitian Vetiver, Dark Leather accord, Laos Oud, Spanish Labdanum, Musk, Ambrocenide Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
It's not oud, it's ambro-chemicals. Nice perfume though. Seriously, 0% oud.
A spectacular perfume that puts me in mind of Melt My Heart, although it replaces oud skank and wood with castoreum skank and leather, and I'm here for it. Real, buttery Orris envelops me, but with that "nasty" animalic edge, very sensual but not offensive. My only gripe would be the colour of the liquid, as you have to be careful where you spray it. Update: a lot of perfumes get labelled 'eternal' but this one really is. I sprayed it yesterday morning and I've had two showers since (climbing session too, very sweaty) and it's still going strong on my wrist! Sprayed on my inner elbow (my favourite spot for revealing the true faces of a perfume, perhaps because of the heat), I get Iris Silver Mist spilled into an exquisite Italian leather bag that's being used to carry mimosas at their most honking and pungent. To compare this to Cuir de Russie, its inspiration, the Chanel has that trademark ethereal sparkle and politesse, whereas Bianchi replaces sparkle with cream and restraint with salaciousness.
Strangely compelling, but I wouldn't buy it. I do think it's a unique balance of notes, and no element dominates, although the chamomile is quite pissy/rotting-fruity, and noticeable. It's kind of like a Xerjoff but with more restraint and less saccharine. I'm sure someone loves this perfume, but it's not for me. ... Now I've worn my decant a few more times, I really don't like it. It's nauseating and relentless. I get a sort of rotting peach/bin juice vibe from it. Really horrible.
Chypre Palatin is an ode to the classic Chypre - its traditional and vintage smelling, but also contemporary enough to wear day to day. It opens with a bitter-green galbanum and powdery aldehyde combination, with a very prominent bitter clementine powering through this. There’s also hints of lavender and sage in the opening which are short lived. As the clementine persists, a beautiful medley of soft florals approach - hyacinth, jasmine and a leathery labdanum are most prominent to me, alongside a fruity touch of plum. It’s the base that’s really exciting though, an animalic boost of tolu balsam and castoreum add a bitter, skanky contrast to the smooth, creamy oakmoss and leather. To finish off, there’s an ever so subtle whisper of an amber accord to bring an addictive sweetness which lasts and lasts. This is a beautiful rendition of a classical Chypre with its own spin on the traditional scent profile. Personally I think Diaghilev completes this type of composition better but Chypre Palatin is far more wearable, and of course far more affordable.
To begin with, the notes listed here on fragrantica aren’t even remotely accurate, a common pattern with Clive Christian fragrances on here - Parfumo has a more accurate note breakdown. Amber Oriental promises two things from the name, but only lives up to one of them: the oriental side. It opens with a sweet fruitiness of pineapple, dried fruits, apple, grapefruit, bergamot and juniper with a soft creaminess coming from leather and oakmoss. There’s touches of green floral notes coming from tagetes and davana, however this is brutally overpowered by this very bitter and scratchy musk/frankincense combination. In the base there are touches of patchouli, tonka and vanilla but these unfortunately cannot compete with the overpowering musk. This is a very strange smelling fragrance, I do enjoy some parts of it but I feel the blending could’ve been much better. The fruitiness is pleasant, and this definitely comes across as a musky oriental however, it hugely lacks any Amber component to the composition. This was a blind buy for me and I was really hoping the Amber would have been more prominent.
The thing with hyraceum, if I've understood correctly, is that unlike with other animalic skanky notes, they use the real deal, the dried droppings, giving the faecal, urine-tinged realness. And I can honestly smell that in this perfume. At first sniff I was like HELL no, but then as is often the case, I went back in, and have now purchased a decant. It's right on the precipice of being unacceptably toilety, and it does remind me of the urine-damp, poo-strewn straw I used to clear out of my hamster's cage when I was wee, but it goes to show what skillful perfumery is capable of. Update after a few more wears... Nope, the everlasting stale urine soaked hamster hay is gag inducing. Horrible.
Absolu Aventus is a deeper, darker and richer take on the Aventus DNA. I see it being great for cooler days and evenings, will have a full bottle on November 1st. 👍👍
Ghastly, obnoxious, screechy migraine hell. There's some nice notes but they're overwhelmed by overdosed aroma chemicals, one of which I'm sure is ambrocenide. If you're "blessed" with the ambro-sensitivity gene like me, this will be noxious chemical warfare for you. It's almost as bad as Sauvage.
Super loads of aldehydes here which are not listed. Same sort of aldehydes as in Chanel No 5 (harsh and soapy). Not a bad scent but by no means as good as other Amouage perfumes.
