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First, this is an extremely well made fragrance. It's just not for me. This is a very rich classic chypre with a linear path after the opening. It may have some additional changes after 4 hours but I did not make it that far. The florals and aldehydes in this dominate with a background vanilla note. I don't get any of the leather or oakmoss. I found this oppressively strong to the point that I regretted wearing this to the office. Even at 4 hours I was still smelling it like I did at first application. Edited to add: Even the scrub didn't stop it. I can still smell it strongly 9 hours in. Was only two sprays.
Chypre Palatin is an ode to the classic Chypre - its traditional and vintage smelling, but also contemporary enough to wear day to day. It opens with a bitter-green galbanum and powdery aldehyde combination, with a very prominent bitter clementine powering through this. There’s also hints of lavender and sage in the opening which are short lived. As the clementine persists, a beautiful medley of soft florals approach - hyacinth, jasmine and a leathery labdanum are most prominent to me, alongside a fruity touch of plum. It’s the base that’s really exciting though, an animalic boost of tolu balsam and castoreum add a bitter, skanky contrast to the smooth, creamy oakmoss and leather. To finish off, there’s an ever so subtle whisper of an amber accord to bring an addictive sweetness which lasts and lasts. This is a beautiful rendition of a classical Chypre with its own spin on the traditional scent profile. Personally I think Diaghilev completes this type of composition better but Chypre Palatin is far more wearable, and of course far more affordable.
I haven't done a gushing review for a while so it's long over due but this is a sublime fragrance. I haven't had the pleasure of seeing the MDCI bottles complete with their bust stoppers in the flesh before. I'd always got little sample vial of the ones I've tried so far so actually spraying one from the bottle was nice. I'd avoided this one for testing purposes due to the name 'Chypre' not that I have anything against that classification but I've far more olfactory priorities like 'orientals' 'balsamics' etc... Woah was I wrong? This is a masterpiece from Duchaufour opens with a wonderful warm but sharp floral, balsamic, slightly green aroma which then gets sweeter and is joined by a sweetness of vanilla and animal notes of musk. It's an absolute knockout! The drydown has a lovely quality of resin with my favourite labdanum in there and a complex woody floral base. I Can't really say much about the composition because it is so complex that it becomes simplistic and all I would say is try it for yourself. I had almost written of MDCI as a niche house which under delivered, although I like Invasion barbare and adored Cuir Garamande I couldn't justify the price. This one however is magic! I'm mystified as to why I didn't buy it? I think I was so stunned and over whelmed by it and it wasn't until I let it drydown and release more secrets hours later when I got home that I was fully convinced.
I've sampled a few times now and gushed out a review (see below) already so I'll keep this short. I got another sample to make sure that I'm definitely in love with this fragrance as its a big commitment (because you've got to get the bust one) from a financial point of view. Anyway, I neglected to mention how much of that clementine note comes through in the opening its splendid, then the Labdanum and an almost ginger beer sharpness and fullness of tolu balm/benzoin and styrax. This fragrance is a knockout...so so good.
Noooooo! Say it ain't so emjayen84??? I've delayed buying it for too long and it's been reformulated. I'll have to try it again and see if what it has lost.
