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Comme des Garcons Red

Comme des Garcons

This is what I love about Comme des Garcons they have a signature throughout their fragrances without ever being boring or a one trick pony. This to me has a blast of green, vegetable like top notes which then evolve into a fruity, sweet, spiced resiny beauty which has both facets of heat and icy coolness. The cherry note is hugely dominant and again I identified this straight away, without any prior knowledge of the note make up of this fragrance. However while being 'tested' by my girlfriend I was reluctant to say cherry, but did and felt vindicated knowing it was really in there. I often Identify that note in perfume and it's not listed examples like TM Pure Havanne, Burberry London and coSTUME National. Red actually shares the same transparent uplifting feel as coSTUME national but without the bitter souring of musk. Some hot, sharp notes from cinnamon and saffron works well with the cherry, the heart is incense like but subtly sweet with tolu and myrrh. It's nice but lacking a strong long lasting base maybe some stronger powder of geranium? or woods something just to give it more dimension. I really like Red though it's a lovely fruity smell which remains that way throughout only get down by longevity which isn't that bad but borderline acceptable. Worth checking out if you like anything coSTUME National and especially ladies who dig coSTUME National scent(Intense) this is along similar lines, without being the same at all.

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12 years ago

Olfactive Studio Flash Back

Olfactive Studio

Such a good opening to this fragrance...a wonderfully realized citrus in the shape of sharp grapefruit which is spot on...really natural. Then a perfect orange note and clearly defined from the grapefruit this is juicy and exudes the flavour of a ripe orange and that freshly peeled white stuff on the inside...gorgeous. Oh yeah...I love rhubarb but I don't get it here really...perhaps an unsweetened 'green' rhubarb that's still growing?...Flash back is tart and sharp but I wouldn't describe it as smelling of Rhubarb and I've sampled it a few times now. The drydown is almost a little warm and that could be the amber listed here although its more pink pepper (which is strong) vetiver and musk which work perfectly with the fruit. I have gotten excited about a few citruses recently (that's because I've tried some very good ones.) but as a rule I don't get to enthusiastic about them...Olfactive studios Flash back is worth it though. Great opening, nice dry down not complex but delivers simplicity very well, my only minor criticism is that it doesn't last very well...otherwise I'd buy this.

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12 years ago

Lubin Akkad

Oh Akkad!!! What a stunning resinous oriental juice this is from Lubin. I've got a strange, inexplicable, soft spot for this house even though I've only tried a couple of their fragrances, and they weren't world beaters if I'm honest. Sometimes you come across fragrances which put a smile on your face and redefine a genre for you. I mean I love lots of amber and Oud, incense accords but even if a scent is appealing or good quality it's a rare thing to find innovation anymore but when you do it's refreshing. It's like every so often in music when you think you've heard every mildly derivative guitar outfit, then suddenly something excites you. I wouldn't quite call Akkad a 'Game changer' (hate that cliche anyway) but it is an amber with balance, sweetness, warmth, creaminess, not cloying and has refreshing fresh incense top notes...what more could I ask for? It starts out with a fresh transparent blast of bergamot, frankincense, elemi and labnadum, transitioning into a kind of benzoin, styrax... ancient powdery amber drydown which is thickened and sweetened with vanilla throughout. Akkad seems to manage both elements of resin slightly cool and uplifting to warm, cosy and authentic in the base. This is great juice however, I can't help but think the top notes should last longer before it dries down to what is quite a standard amber accord. That's harsh criticism because if you love resins as I do you won't care and at least those top notes are there in the first place...however fleeting.

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12 years ago

Pierre Guillaume Paris Naiviris

Pierre Guillaume Paris

Anyone else think it smells a little more like a rose/iris combo in the opening? It might just be because it's SO powdery but this is not a straight Iris and not really an enjoyable scent for me. It smells quality sure and has the longevity you'd expect but for me it's another uninspiring super powdery scent. I like Iris but not in this fragrance I get an almost suncream vibe too which I associate with myrtle. I wouldn't wear this...no complexity and not woody in the way I like...I'll give it a miss. Update 06/01/23 How dumb is the above review? I can scarcely believe I'm talking about the same fragrance I experienced yesterday, but it is the same one, the very sample I got at the time, so no danger of reformulation or anything. For starters the Iris in this is powdery and vegetal but it has a unique character and the way it's been paired with the woody notes in here, (Zebra wood/sausage tree whatever) is a revelation!!! To be honest I DO get that twang of patchouli/saffron and something distinctly resembling an oud/rose perfume after the initial Iris calms, but never goes away and that's the element which softens and brings the whole composition together. I think it's a case of similar materials giving those effects, and coming together to resemble something familiar but still elevating it somewhat. A very good, progressive perfume, I loved it! 2014 me is a fucking moron!

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12 years ago

Andrea Maack Coal

Wow! Pretty blown away by this fragrance. I knew this Andrea Maack line had potential to give me something to smile about and Coal has been the one to do it. It's not like anything I've tried before it has true dimension, because the smokey/earthy coal effect is like a veil of smoke sitting in front of the 'real' composition behind. A clever perfumers illusion and the olfactory equivalent of Dolby 5:1 surround sound. The opening is quite fresh with juniper and papyrus and just to mention that many fragrances which contain papyrus(with sandalwood usually?) are a turn off for me. Coal however is really nice and interesting and somehow does evoke the smell of coal. The intense pepper grows out of the opening and you get a kinda smokey effect but the drydown to me is a kind of patchouli and very spicy gorgeous sandalwood and maybe some ambery resin too...it's slendid! Longevity is good and coal projects for a little bit before retreating. This fragrance is nothing short of show stoppingly good and you have to check it out. I want a bottle.

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12 years ago

Pierre Guillaume Paris Fareb

Pierre Guillaume Paris

Opens boozy and dense which a touch of spicy ginger and almost seems quite sweet. This subsides and as it settles you get the spice and an arabian culinary feel. One thing I can't stand is the strange buttery, honey like floral smell of Immortale. It's very distinctive indeed and if it's not really your cup of tea then you won't enjoy Fareb. The smell reminds me of something but I just can't place it? It connects to some deeply hidden olfactory memory from my childhood which has been repressed. It kinda smells a little grubby which maybe is what the 'leather' note is all about, because I wouldn't describe this as leathery, certainly not in anyway I find appealing...It's maybe slighty woody even? I want to hate this and I'd never dream of wearing it with so many excellent fragrances out there but something about it intrigues me. As it becomes a slight skin scent in the drydown it smells so natural and thought provoking that I can't help but have some 'carcrash' response which keeps me sniffing. It's the uniqueness I expected from Huitieme Art. Update: I know what it reminds me of now and it's a real childhood smell...WAX CRAYONS.

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12 years ago

Andrea Maack Craft

Yes Craft is instantly reminiscent of incense fragrances such as Cardinal, full incense, Avignon...etc...etc However the top notes of aldehydes make for a truly cold blast which I find to be even more minimal and metallic at first...but that could just be my imagination. When It dries down a little and this coldness subsides slightly it's pretty much exactly the same elemi/frankincense/cedar vibe of the aforementioned fragrances. I've said it once and I'll say it again....How many times does this fragrance have to be replicated??? The same could be said for many combinations of notes and similar fragrances but this just seems to be one I notice more. I'm not nay saying either because I love the smell of this fragrance and I'd definitely wear it...just spoiled for choice as to which one to get? I can't base it on longevity or projection because they're all very similar in that department too...It will have to be purely based on priced.

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12 years ago

Hotel Hassler Roma Amorvero Uomo

Hotel Hassler Roma

There is something of the Hotel about this, namely a soapy texture and clean towel vibe...it's very bathroom anyway. The opening is a mixture of a slightly powdery, talc like geranium and lavender with citrus. The fruit is sharp and jarring against this backdrop at first and almost fools you into thinking this might just be a fleeting citrus scent. Well the citrus is fleeting but Amorvero Uomo then develops into a tediously, clean well blended Fougere. Nothing stands up to be counted note wise and you're left with something nice but not even as classy as some similar niche classics. I don't doubt there's all these notes in there but they just seem to constitute a pleasant amalgam, not offensive just not that great unfortunately. This is something for the true gent who doesn't want to stand out or really let people know he's wearing fragrance, just smells uber clean. Update: Well I never the drydown was totally unexpected a deep musky scent which is a superb finish to what I had considered a bit of a lost cause. Just goes to show it's not all over until the drydown. Musky, warm and although totally inconceivable earlier, a pronounced and fairly robust tobacco note. A surprise finish then, maybe a touch of too little too late but it definitely makes this scent more than your average fougere and more meets the eye, worth checking out!

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12 years ago

Pierre Guillaume Paris Sucre d'Ebene

Pierre Guillaume Paris

Anyone else smell beer? It's like a malty, hoppy, fermenting real ale to me. I don't know if this 'sucre' or sugar has turned into alcohol, because that's what I get from this fragrance. As it dries down it becomes a heavy benzoin accented fragrance with a base of wood and some real sweetness now. It's a gourmand which masquerades as a foamy pint for a while then boy does it get yummy...? In fact...Sucre d'Ebene is pretty gorgeous when dried down. The opening is a bit strange though, it's like any fragrance with a wheaty note (Serge Lutens Jeux de peau) it takes time to get used to. Sits very close to the skin but smells very sexy.

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12 years ago

Pierre Guillaume Paris Myrrhiad

Pierre Guillaume Paris

Opens with an odd incense accord of spiced resin and something like firey ginger beer...seriously! That fades quickly mind you and hints of the tea and liquorice are there, I had to re apply to be sure as I didn't get anything to begin with. The main element which sweetens up the whole composition (too much so perhaps?) is Vanilla which takes any rough edge off that the myrrh might of possessed in the drydown. I think this effect leaves you with a vague, ambery, approximation of resin...I mean it smells like myrrh but more focused on the antiseptic quality with non of the sweet sharpness. I've tried several 'cold' myrrh fragrances recently which have real metallic and tea notes which are complementary this however is very warm and cosy for me. I'm not mad at it but it's not the best thing I've smelled from this house. To be fair this is a house I was expecting big things from and perhaps something more unusual. That vanilla sits close but lasts...and although pleasant enough, not one for real Myrrh lovers IMO. Update: Actually the drydown is pretty nice and longlasting, I found it much better when it settled down a soft amber/vanilla which is slightly dry and dusty.

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12 years ago

Andrea Maack Coven

This is some dark perfumery here. Just starting with the name it evokes a coven of witches in a damp Forrest stirring up witchcraft and of course...their cauldron. It's the fithiest of filthy soil tinctures and moss, which goes far beyond normal acceptability and actually into a realm I find interesting. It's a further place where fragrance goes and runs the full gamete from horrid all the way back to exquisite. Patchouli lovers with like this because it's dank and soily but green and grassy almost figgy in the top notes. As it dries down there's a slight wet wood and a little peppery spice in there too. Great longevity on me...doesn't project all that much which is probably a good thing as it's not exactly a crowd pleaser. Bizarre stuff but not all that unpleasant...still wouldn't wear it though...maybe on Halloween?

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12 years ago

Carthusia Mediterraneo

This fragrance is special. Somehow captures all that sicilian juicy, fruitiness a lemon which is not at all sharp but superbly realistic. It has the cooling effect of a summer breeze lightly spiced with cardamom and somehow a touch of those wild flowers. Green tea is a perfect companion for this light, perfect scent...reminds me of Iced tea and Lemon. I'm head over heels for Carthusia Mediteraneo just the remedy for hot weather. I've smelled a few citruses which have made me rethink this entire olfactive group recently but this one is a real achievement. The longevity is not great and it doesn't have any surprises underneath in terms of base notes and as such, is pretty linear affair. Not so good...but I still kinda wanna add it to my collection, it's that good.

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12 years ago

Comme des Garcons Green

Comme des Garcons

All these fresh wonderful and beautiful things in one fragrance. The opening IS a Mojito the greenest freshest leafy mint note and accurate lime citrus I've smelled. It also goes a little figgy for a second then the juniper freshness, settling to a straighter more herby vibe...which to me is tea. The heart of this fragrance smells like black tea, elemi with clean earthy vetiver and prehaps some cedar. I love it! I think sometimes they get the names of fragrances muddled because yet again Comme des Garsons have made a scent which truly is Amazingly green. Oh well I suppose this is called 'Green' to be fair. The drydown is different again it's oddly sweet the elemi possibly coming out again? It has this meditative incense kinda thing of CDG and a little of the Amazinggreen about it too. Major let down is the longevity...few hours at best and despite good initial projection it fades quickly. Can't fault the smell though it's excellent, sparkling and refreshing juice with a touch of earthy edge to it.

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12 years ago

Farmacia SS. Annunziata Takis

Farmacia SS. Annunziata

I'd describe Takis as a creamy/herby/floral scent which is dominated in the opening by one note...Vanilla. It's that combination with a strong white musk and herbs, thyme and sage which make that sickly and vaguely reminiscent combo of lavender/musk/vanilla from things like JPG Le Male or MDCI Invasion Barbare. The top notes are an unmistakable ylang ylang which can be divine or awful dependent on composition and luckily in this case its okay. For something so creamy and vanilla like it dies a quick death on my skin, which is not that disappointing because I'm not fully on board with this sort of scent anyway. It's a well blended piece which doesn't offend me but doesn't ignite a spark in me either. If I had the option I'd get Histoires 1725 or Invasion barbare instead.

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12 years ago

Detaille Aeroplane

Got my girlfriend to test my note knowledge with this one and I impressed her when she picked it out of a bag of samples I was yet to try. To be fair this was a really easy test as the scent was pretty clear to me. I really enjoy the yesty opening right away I identified the juicy sharp bergamot and then petitgrain. The base is a slightly herbal mixture of a very subtle patchouli and a more pronounced moss. At first I didn't get the mint but it's there as it settles down. Classic, elegant fragrance reminds me of something my dad would've worn. Mediocre longevity but all in all a good fragrance.

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12 years ago

Carthusia Gelsomini Di Capri

Gelsomini Di Capri

An attack of white florals which is so potent in the opening it comes across almost animal like a feral musk! Waxy, orange blossom, ylang ylang and sweeter jasmine are dominant in the beginning then becoming a more powdered geranium type vibe. There is the tiniest hint of clove in there too. The scent for women who enjoy this traditional floral fare and not for this man to wear at all. The saving grace here is the jasmine in the top notes otherwise I really wouldn't like Gelsomini di Capri.

Wow! Pretty amazing jasmine dominant perfume, but I found it came off incredibly masculine (whatever you make of me saying that?) on me and immediately reminded me of more 'men's' florals like geranium or carnation (just to note if definitely doesn't smell of either of those) but this is an unapologetically flouncy, Erol Flynn blouse of a floral. It's quite Italian too in that it has that fresh, amalfi coast citrus sort of thing and a general attitude to it. (Helpful I know!) I didn't find it very stinky or indolic but I've had 100% negative anti-compliments so yeah, not popular in the workplace, but fuck um! What's very curious is that it's lush, green banana and hefty and quite tamed and beautiful jasmine accord is then tinged after several hours with a fizzy orange powder, not all the way orange blossom but definitely complimenting the jasmine and ylang. I mean to say this is not my usual jam is an understatement but I happen to have really enjoyed it today. A solid perfume from a super old sample I found. Update (from yesterday) I mentioned that it wasn't indolic, clearly a good jasmine accord (which I consider this to be) will be somewhat indolic, but what I meant was that I only get the sweet, heady flowery effect with little skank. Well fast forward to today and the remnant on my clothes tells a slightly different story, there's a dirty, poopy, indole nestled among what is still a pretty nice exotic floral smell. Just to note that after about 18 hours or something, smelling that relentlessly of jasmine had started to take it's toll, and this perfume is not what I'd consider the most full blooded floral I've ever worn, but it's hefty enough, nevertheless.

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12 years ago

Ann Gerard Cuir de Nacre

I love leather fragrances and the smell you get in most is an approximation of 'real' leather. Things like clive christian C (which I adore BTW) and Tom Ford Tuscan leather have an aggressive accord which smells very sharp. Some which have a very animal or woody nature coupled with oud like Dior Leather Oud and Cuir d'arabie but Cuir de Nacre is entirely different. There's yet another type which seem to be heavy in patchouli and earthy tincture coupled with the leather to create a 'dirty' feel. This one is vaguely reminiscent of YSL's Noble leather in that it's lighter and more powdery but still the YSL leans more toward the Tuscan leather end of the spectrum. Cuir de Nacre is an absolute triumph, such an true leather exuding from the top notes of this fragrance. A wonderfully accurate, soft, buttery leather note which evokes shoe shops, handbags and wallets. The mention of handbags includes the contents BTW lipstick and powdery make up vibes which to my taste never once lean too far into the realms of an 'older' lady type vibe. It's not aggressive enough for that the balance of iris, styrax, musk and cassis is perfect and as it dries down becomes less leathery and more powdery. This has a classy finesse to it and just smells really nice...If that leather lasted, was a bit stonger and less powdered I would hail this as the best leather I'd ever smelled. Longevity is okay but soft and retreats nicely which adds to the less intrusive feel overall.

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12 years ago

James Heeley Agarwoud

Woah! This is heavy as hell and I should of expected it from Heeley. I often write witty concise reviews in my head which are full of interesting new words instead of the same old cliches I spout so frequently. Then when I come to write the review...Gone! Oh well The insanely sweet, Turkish delight rose in this creation provoked a completely different reaction the first time I tried it. I got an oud note in the very first sniff then detected a super sweet rose which just gets more and more pronounced, to which I thought this is going to be a Montale like effort and I'm going to hate it. Somehow it crossed over and got so intensely rosy and concentrated that it went all the way back around from awful to exquisite. It's very much like the Bubblegum chic in that it's so pungent it smells as far from natural or even floral as you can get and become a atomic chemical monstrosity, like some sort of food additive concentrate that's meant to be diluted at 1ppm. The result was weirdly enough I liked it for being so bonkers and FULL ON! My second trial came today and upon application I got a similar effect except this time I got the usual powder of expensive high end rose/oud's... a sickening urinal cake vibe, complete with urine! Maybe my skin was different today? I've really no idea? So I can't really decide what's going on? One thing is for sure Agarwoud is a nuts and has to be tried by rose lovers.

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12 years ago

Detaille Escrimeur

Opens like a musky masculine juice which is a perfect aromatic and quite potent in the opening. It settles to a juicy natural citrus and zesty orange/lavender top with vetiver, cedar and come herbal notes and cardamom. It's nice, a really clean, safe smell which is traditional and almost impossible to be offended by. However, it's not original or tasty enough to capture my attention. This house is good though that's two out of two for them so far. If you like a well blended classical stuff then it's worth checking I out. Longevity isn't bad and it projects really well at first, like for 1/2 hour or so.

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12 years ago

Detaille Par 4

Par 4 is a fresh fragrance which to me opens pretty aquatically and very similar to Agua de Loewe EL which is a gorgeous smelling fruity opening. Doesn't take long however for the development of a range of herbs, basil, clary sage and predominantly saffron. It smells almost exactly like Prada Amber, which is a great endorsement, a Superb, soapy, cleanness is the signature of this fragrance at it's heart is vetiver. 'Dominated by Labdanum and saffron' is not quite accurate to begin with but then the drydown progresses and becomes more and more true. The galbanum and woods in the base set this apart from either perfume I compared it to previously. Par 4 is a three act play, a triple threat which pocesses real quality. 1st act is a citrus and fruity note burst which is truly lovely. 2nd act is Prada Amber saffron/herby/soapy. 3rd act is resins and woods making a formidable base. Minor critism is the whole process is over a little quickly and longevity is poor but I can't wait to try this again I was really impressed.

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12 years ago

10 Corso Como 10 Corso Como

The opening little puff of rose didn't indicate whether I would like this fragrance or not but as it settles it's my kind of deal. Balsamic, spicy, woody all good so far and the sandalwood develops as it dries down. Reminds me a tiny bit of the new Tobacco oud from Tom Ford. However there's nothing outstanding here and the longevity is pathetic, I mean seriously poor! I never smelled the original formulation but if this was stronger and more ballsy with more oud, good quality sandalwood, a longer lasting rose note and perhaps some more spices? It would be a winning (and completely different)fragrance. Don't get me wrong I like the smell but there's many better perfumes out there.

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12 years ago

Farmacia SS. Annunziata Isos

Farmacia SS. Annunziata

A cold opening juniper and mint jumping out right off the bat. The guaic wood and vetiver is present in the opening too then Isos proceeds to get spicier and spicier. It starts with pepper which builds into a clove note then in the drydown a sweeter myrrh. Isos is not too dissimilar to a recent perfume I tried, Paul Smith portrait and while it's notable I'd still describe this as being very unique and different in distinct stages throughout the experience. This fragrance has a unbelievable progression of notes everything listed comes through clearly and while I'm not mad about this fragrance I can ignore that sort of thing when it delivers so many complimentary components. A good unique fresh, spicy, woody fragrance and I can't wait to wear it properly.

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12 years ago

Pierre Guillaume Paris Ambre Ceruleen

Pierre Guillaume Paris

I think Ceruleen means '...up the wahzoo!' This is an INTENSELY resinous warm, deep uber powdery amber... This is an attack of amber! The quality displayed here is great because it's all about balance. The opening is wierd the whole thing takes time to develop but when it does it's gorgeous! Rough, for just a moment a sweet, hot spice effect (a bit like cinnamon) coming from opoponax, then smooth tonka beans and sandalwood. This is an example of simple construction where the notes themselves have several facets which shine to create more than the some of it's parts. I like amber so naturally this scent appeals to me however I can definitely see how it would be too much for some. Update: So funny when I read a review then revisit a perfume years later, (April 2020) I think putting 'INTENSELY' in caps was a bit misleading but largely my thoughts are the same. This is one of those amber perfumes which smells barely there in the opening, no real top notes to speak off and sleek, sheer santal and coumarin merging all the resin into indistinct fuzz of warmth. Knowing perfume means you learn to detect little foibles and pick up on signs and a meek opening amber is usually a less full on experience than say a labdanum/incense heavy amber like TF's Amber absolute for instance. This is more laid back, powdery, balmy and lighter on it's feet but still just a massive chunk of a Base/Bass heavy perfume. I like it but compared to a million other amber's it doesn't announce itself nearly enough to warrant special attention, a pleasant wear though.

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12 years ago

Pierre Guillaume Paris Ciel d'Airain

Pierre Guillaume Paris

Massive Fig note in the opening which has all the juiciness and green qualities you'd expect, It's wild but not as much as diptyque's Philosykos. That lasts a few minutes then you're treated to a delicate woody amber. I'm not familiar with pear wood to be honest but the smell here is a fruity wood accord which I find very appealing. The drydown is delicate and blossom like... a kind of peachy powder. I'd prefer it on a woman, not that it's feminine but I don't think I'd wear it. Hasn't blown me away but is a very interesting start for a house which doesn't use conventional notes. I'm looking forward to some of the other samples I have.

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12 years ago