This one and Talent serve as the functional freshies but Wisdom is even more classic in the Eau de Cologne sense comprising as it does mainly citruses and then a strong white floral neroli. Very nice and I have a new appreaciarion for just how much neroli can differ in smell as a raw material, and how it’s actually pretty expensive. However my overriding perception is that I shouldn’t be paying £195 for a nice citrus/white floral, but money talk is vulgar and it’s not that much of a big deal if you love it.
Talent is decent. You definitely get the tea and pepper elements just accenting what is a very accomplished bergamot/citrus. Quality no doubt but considering some of the others in the line, not something I would fork out for.
I put a like for this a while back when I first tried this line. This was always one that I expected to be good and was but moved passed it without to much of an event or fanfare. However, upon trying today I think it deserves more praise. If you love a sweet, warm oriental which in truth is more tobacco heavy than leather despite the name. It is leathery in the opening, sweetly edged, opulent and with an almost gourmand cinnamon spice of a tolu balsam, it really appeals but I like something to surprise me and it feels a little bit stock. However, as it dries down the tobacco is more dominant giving a different dimension even hints of tea and dry smoke from the tobacco accord but somehow cleaning everything up at the same time. The feel is more Miller Harris feuilles de tabac, Bertrand for L’Artisan or other blonde tobacco fragrances you might care to mention. It’s really great. Lacking the unusual edginess of my favourite of this bunch, which is Vinyl.
I've become too much of an IG head in recent times and neglected my duties as a proud Fragrantica member, in not reviewing this perfume immediately. I was so jaded by the fragrance community, hype trains etc that this might well have been dismissed for the name alone. Tom Ford has become a bit too knowing with the innuendo of late and this offering tips over into parody. I hate to be this embittered and cynical but I really hoped I hated this just so I could rage back at the seemingly relentless noise it was getting online. Before people had even tried it and some jumping on it just to be first. The 'Influencer' set were biggin' it up, probably without even receiving free bottles such is the genius and momentum of the TF brand. All this misanthropy and negativity aside...I loved Lost Cherry. I only tried it once on my wrist so I perhaps haven't had the full experience and no one wanted it to be awful more than me...but it just plugged straight into some happy centre in my brain. I love Cherry and should've known it would be well handled by the private blend and not end up like some pound shop air freshener. The vibe is a deep, cherry and almonds but not cloying, not even too gourmand almost in the same sense as Plum Japonais but not as woody. It has the boozy, peru balm, cinnamon backing everything, it's basically a wet dream of stuff I like, but never thought would want in a perfume. Just goes to show you can't dismiss something on marketing, a silly name or the fact loads of people are hyping it because sometimes it's with good reason. I defy anyone to present a better cherry fragrance than this, I certainly can't think of any? I have a list of Olfactory priorities as long as a big willy (sorry some of Tom's crudeness is rubbing off on me....ooooh 'rubbing off'...I'll STOP now) so I probably won't be getting this anytime soon, but not because it doesn't smell good. This is coming from a person who bought Fucking Fabulous BTW. Yeah I know.
I can’t find my original review after a quick scroll but it went something like...this smells of cherries. (Or what our mind approximates the intensified, syrupy sweet, hyper cherry) It accesses the immature child in me and I go oooh lovely but is it perfume? Well to be fair it’s feels better more rounded and less cloying than a Demeter cherry or some cheap thing. However you’d expect richness for this price and even if it’s a one trick pony, you’d expect one hell of a trick and it largely pulls it off. A friend of mine mentioned how poor the longevity was, I hadn’t noticed to be honest but I put it to the test again today and by golly she’s right. The performance on this fragrance is so abysmal it’s not even funny. I’m not one to bang on about ‘performance’ I’ll leave that for moronic Youtubers and the like, but when you’re paying top dollar and after 3 hours this becomes NOTHING! Not a skin scent, not vanillin or aroma chemicals...NOTHING at all, (it’s pretty remarkable) then I have issues.
Opens well and on a day I tried Eros Flame and Spicebomb Nightvision this was like a creative lightening bolt in comparison. Only in comparison mind you, this is still a Joop fragrance and as such about as subtle as a sledgehammer. I found the opening to be a dry, spicy resinous feel with a nearly rubbery texture, getting sweeter hints and more saturated by a ‘sexy’ Tonka accord. I can’t say I liked it really and the drydown got a little worse but in creativity terms so much more imaginative than the current glut of similar smush.
I’ve never tried anything from this brand, I’m put off by the look of the bottles. I know it’s shallow but these have the appearance of something that wouldn’t seem unappropiate, quivering, glistening and plopping out of a satisfied orifice.
Miss Dior - 1950’s edt splash reviewed. Miss Dior was born shortly after WW2, in a moment of devastation, shortages and despair. While the world was slowly picking itself up, Christian Dior launched the famous New Look Collection in a move of joyous optimism, to allow women to feel beautiful, strong, desired and independent. Miss Dior was the perfect first fragrance, an accessory more easily obtained than the more expensive haute couture. A fragrance full of joy, freshness, joie de vivre. The original incarnation is a beautifully elegant floral chypre, redolent of galbanum, aldehydes, white flowers, oakmoss and hidden animalic notes that lend a gorgeous parfum fourrure feel. The opening absolutely sings. Overcast dove grey skies, but not melancholic. Early spring. Fizzy aldehydes, galbanum, styrallyl acetate for the Gardenia rendition. A young fresh feel for all women, all ages. The scent of optimism. The heart starts to get a little darker. Among the flowers, rose, good luck lily of The Valley, Iris, carnation...voluptuous and spicy, with the discreet powderiness of Iris, to cast a veil of sensual femininity. At once, it smells expensive, debutant but mature; while the flowers and green notes denote elegance and good taste, a perfect first perfume for a young lady, there are hidden secrets ahead, making it perfect for a woman that is fierce willed and strong. Leather, buttery sandalwood, civet, most likely ambergris, costus root, nitromusks...notes that don’t scream but instead envelop the fragrance in a bouquet of luxury and naughtiness; silk underwear under a perfectly tailored suit. The desire to be loved, longed for, without being vulgar. The warmth that emanates from the skin is glorious. Hard to pinpoint notes, it simply sings. A masterpiece. Under the guidance of Christian, Paul Vacher and Jean Carles created one of the most beautiful fragrances of the era, and one of the most memorable masterpieces of the last century. As if the green floralcy of Ma Griffe and the sexual potency of Tabu had a baby, Miss Dior had the pedigree of the house that saw her to life. Elegant, sensual, powerful. The original has a wonderful tenacity on skin, and a potent sillage that becomes more languid as the day progresses. Easily worn by men, Miss Dior is simply put, an ode to joy and love and life. Not to be confused with anything bearing the name today; Miss Dior remained integral up until the late 80’s/early 90’s. Ages well, if you find intact bottles on eBay, they are a good investment. What is currently sold by that name is nothing but a sad joke.
Not sure where my review is, perhaps it's just another one that was forgotten about because I tried this when it came out and remember it not living up to my high expectations. However upon wearing again, I'm much more understanding and sympathetic with it's themes. I love a good tea biased accord and it's pretty prominent in here backed up by a leathery woods. The birch tar smokiness and peppery notes are very subtle and chime well with the inherent smokiness of the tea but there's a brightness here too. The drydown is one of leather but there's a sweet fruity note, I'm not entirely convinced but I definitely enjoyed it more this time. Masque are yet to show me something I didn't think was of some creative interest.
Fidji - the scent of paradise. Vintage, 70’s edt splash. Created by the late Josephine Catapano (of Norell, Youth Dew etc), Fidji embodied a new style in perfumery, a green fresh spirit, inspired in part by L’Air du Temps, and later on inspiring the mythical Anaïs Anaïs. It was a dreamscape, faraway islands, exotic beaches and the magic of the orient. But not in a heavy oriental manner; Fidji was the daytime version, a more hip hippie fragrance giving its emphasis on patchouli and sandalwood, and bitter green notes. Back then, when tropical didn’t mean fruity pink drinks and coconut suntan lotion, Fidji was seen as a breath of fresh air. And righty so; galbanum in abundance, aldehydes, hyacinth, jasmine, ylang ylang, cloves, orris, ambergris, oakmoss, sandalwood... a fresh but sensual fragrance that read in its first ads ‘a woman is an island, Fidji is her fragrance’. Review of early 70’s edt splash. And indeed it was. Seen through the lens of a gauzy dreamscape, Fidji startles with its soapy aldehydes and bitter herbal opening. Fresh, savonneux, the cool touch of skin freshly showered. Lemon and bergamot add further sparkle without making the opening citrusy, instead enhancing the galbanum, and making way for the florals. Flowers that are caressed by the Pacific breeze. Rich but never demure, the flowers are enhanced by the spicy cloves, with a slight carnation feel, hence the association with the more serious and mature L’Air du Temps; Fidji was younger, carefree, emancipating. Exploring new lands, breaking new boundaries. But even though there’s an innate breath of fresh air running through, Fidji still manages to smell sensual at the same time. The ambery base with ambergris for its lick of salty skin, sandalwood from Mysore that conjures the exotic and faraway India, sensual musks, oakmoss... notes that anchor Fidji on skin for hours, developing and mesmerizing, enveloping the fragrance in sensuality and transitioning it to the night. Fidji was seen as a perfect scent for young ladies. The allure of the exotic was becoming a reality, Woodstock was about to take place, and the hippie movement was in auge. But while a young lady could perfectly wear it, a green fresh floral, so could a more rogue one. Deep basenotes, rich patchouli and sandalwood, animalic beauty running through. Fidji was the dream of a generation, a perfume that made a reality the new world and the breaking of boundaries. A still frame of a generation that was breaking free of restrictions and embracing opportunities. Fidji is and was for everyone, and today it feels more unisex than ever. In its early 70’s formula, which is the one I own, it positively sings on skin for hours on end. The version sold today, while thinner and flatter, still manages to convey the smell of exotic islands and faraway lands. A woman is an island, but Fidji can be worn by anybody. Green, fresh, sparkling; timeless and elegant. A true masterpiece and what exotic fragrances should smell like!
This smells, to me, like an incredibly expensive version of Valentino Uomo. It's not exactly similar, but it definitely feels in the same ballpark with the lemon opening that transitions into a smooth, buttery, pastry-like fragrance. The big difference between the two for me is the obvious huge leap in quality from MB, it just smells so deep, rich and frankly, like money. The opening of MB is really top-tier, it's a beautiful lemon, peppery vibe with a touch of the sweetness to come and it's really special. Once the opening lifts away, the orris comes through, thick and luxurious, giving the whole thing a very smooth velvety feeling. It's a very classic touch, but at the same time, MB remains completely modern. I think it would be a bit of a crowd pleaser, my only hesitation being that it is really very heavy. This is another of the main differences between this and Uomo; whereas Uomo is light and a fairly close scent that's easy to wear, MB is heavy and dense and you need to be careful not to overspray or wear in a closed environment in my opinion, it could get cloying and oppressive real quick. Overall I'd say the pyramid is fairly true to what you get, except the patchouli, I didn't notice any patchouli at all, even in the late dry down so it must be soft in there. speaking of the dry down, it lasts forever. On me I sprayed it at 10 am this morning, it's now 3:30 am and I'm about to jump in the shower and I can still smell it as strong as I could at lunchtime. Absolute monster. Classic and very beautiful with a heavy modern edge, it's a beautiful fragrance. The bottle and juice colour is just as fantastic. MB is really a great scent, suited to the colder months, possibly needs to be dressed up to do it justice. I'm not sure it's a love for me, purely based on the fact it feels a little bit showy, but that's just a personal preference and objectively speaking, I think it's a very beautiful scent. Worth the price over Uomo? Not for me personally, I actually prefer Uomo as it's lighter and easier to wear, but there's no mistaking that this is a far superior fragrance as far as pure quality goes. Very nice effort from Penhaligon's and difficult to truly fault honestly.
Took a couple of tries to see the magic but I have glimpsed it now, and this is quite some fragrance. Opens quite fresh almost green, a little transparent with touches of the sharp pine/eucalyptus about it. It's definitely resinous but has the bright fizzy lemon of olibanum and elemi with some of the greener character of galbanum. This is all the opening, fleeting top notes and as such shouldn't be obsessed about because there's so much more to this than that. The incense becomes, smokier, oilier and with a touch of the diesel fume about it. High quality Vetiver adds to this dry smokey touch but never dominates the cerebral, and actually quite light feel. the sweet pink pepper note chimes in too. It's a strange one which I kinda dismissed upon first try, then on the the second try remarked on how well it transitioned through different stages, lasting very well on my skin. I really liked it.
I found this to be a truly innovative piece of work, but it's lighthearted, wearable nature is probably doing a good job of masking that fact. I reckon the votes being mainly for 'like', back that theory up, because a violet/rose fragrance with animallic leather and cucumber freshness, sounds like a bit of a train-wreck or at least a polarising Love/Hate thing? London carries off the broadly floral hue of Gallivant perfumes into the opening of violets and roses, powdered and jammy but combined with fresh green notes. Nice enough so far then a subtle, buttery iris/orris accord starts to develop on a delicate woody base. Despite the rose bias, London smells like nothing I've worn before but I suppose it kinda fits into a cleaner, brighter category almost to the point of effervescence. Think Lumiere noire, lyric even. London is a really measured piece of work, I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Having worn this entire line a couple of times now I have to say that I've quite smitten with the easy going charm, exuded by each one of these fragrances. Berlin was the first I wore properly on skin and it didn't disappoint. Uplifting and fresh Berlin is a mixed bag of bitter citrus and tangerine qualities, with the longer lasting citrus of petitgrain. The heart of Berlin is a tea note which complements the bright opening and with vetiver backing it up adds a hint of dry smoke...but not much. It settles very smooth and considering tea and citrus can have sharp metallic qualities it's a mellow fragrance. Perhaps a little to mellow? No I can't fault it, Berlin lasted okay and really woke me up, energising my Monday morning. I like it.
Very low lying, ultra transparent fragrance which had a synthetic feel to it. The vanilla and orris/iris sits so close to the skin the fresh notes barely pop, it's another super minimal fragrance that repeats the EDC mantra of barely existent longevity and projection. That's not what fragrance is all about though and I have images of some lady in a silk nightgown, pampering herself, perhaps waiting for a lover to arrive? and if you are close enough to snuggle, barely gives off a perfumed smell, but just sort of enhances her own soft, skin smell. (there's a reason why I don't use this sort of narrative in my reviews or have a career as an author of erotic fiction!;) I need to wear properly because I forgot it already, maybe that speaks volumes?
Eau de cologne type vibes, citrus, mild neroli backdrop and not much of a base to speak of. Lovely smell and if you love it good look to you. I was left a little cold, maybe if I wore it properly I'd change my mind but I don't think so.
I've got to say that this was the most memorable of the three in my opinion. There's really not a great deal to say, such is the chic minimalism of this perfume. Polge lent some of this craft to a line I tried recently, Mugler Les Exceptions which seem bold and brash now in comparison to these. It's a green opening with fresh lime and mandarin notes as it dries you get a delicate powder soft floral heart and base of the sweetest patchouli. It's not reinventing anything and might be functional for some....but not at what I suspect the price might be. I was distinctly underwhelmed by the line.
Lignum Vitae is bizarre and exceptional in equal measure, but not the usual kind of signature strangeness I've come to expect from this brand. Lignum Vitae is 'Beaufort does gourmand' and the last thing I was expecting to smell was a lemon Madeira cake, but that's exactly what I got from it. Such an accurate accord but with a salty, ozonic blast at the start and some leafy herbal business too, but then a clever, syrupy, lemon drizzle of citrus and that cakey, caramelised vanilla accord growing. I was very impressed when I read the notes and saw 'Madeira cake accord' among the list...I mean how specific? and my missus and I had already remarked that this smelled like that. What I like is that this perfume isn't a one trick pony because once you've digested your cake, you get more of that salty aquatic thing reminiscent of the finish from Tonnare a fragrance which hints at it all the way through but until the smoke clears you don't appreciate the full effect of. I get some of that savoury, herbal stuff as well almost as if the cake were make with olive oil? Lignum Vitae is challenging in a good way and nice to see the brand diversify from the smokey/leathery territory to something equally as eccentric.
I’m shocked and stunned that I like this fragrance so much. To me it’s a big bold balsamic fragrance that goes on almost as if the resin was never diluted into liquid, such is the density. Very sweet and I mainly got the jasmine on top, giving it a more feminine lean as do the other two in the line. The shocking thing for me is just how prominent the honey note is and it’s not some meek honey either, it’s fully fledged but coupled with the cinnamon spiced tolu balm, hint of vanilla and florals it balances out very nicely indeed. The honey mellows and the whole thing just becomes a cuddly warm hug of a fragrance with undeniable quality. I love it. Reminded me of old style Thierry Mugler (rather than Mugler) but somewhat safer and also Parfums de Marly Oajan but only a fleeting glance of similarity. I thought this would be monsterous performance wise because it goes on heavy and projects a cloud around it, but it’s more modest. Don’t get me wrong it lasts quite well and I think will require another wear.
Oh dear.... Oh dear oh dear.... The boundary testing olfactory experiment that is Beaufort has just stepped into territory I don't like at all. Having tried Tonnare first and loving the wet stone/gunpowder into, very smokey notes and dryness then a lasting fresh citrus and ozonic, seabreeze accord that was simply stunning...to this, it's been a long journey. Some inbetween teetered with upsetting me this one just spilled out into proper weird. It reminds me a little of a friend of mine who's personal hygiene leaves somewhat to be desired. There's an animal, sweaty, dirty, unwashed hair/beard, denim jacket (complete with metal band patches) slightly alcohol, cannabis smoke and bong water sauteed feel to rake and ruin. Now... I placed the image in my partners mind when I said do you think this smells like....%$^$"%&^??? and she was was like OMG YES!!! but still impressive. Anyway, Is this unique...absolutely, I've never smelled anything like it...It's woody and has the element of pine or spruce, I get even a meditative quality of incense. The bbq rib sauce and bomfire smoke looms large and coupled with those animal qualities (which I'm adverse to btw) which in this setting and composition are pretty unbearable. The opening goes give that lovely gunpowder, slightly metallic smoke quality somewhat of a Beaufort signature, it's just a nuts fragrance. I don't even think the composition is messy, it's deliberate focused and has real purpose to me. I wish I liked it, loved it even...but I can't get over the fact that it's a bad smell. Infinitely complex and an incredible feat of olfactory innovation...but still it's a bad smell. An olfactory piece of art but unwearable. I could probably replicate the effect by going on a three month bender and never showering or changing my clothes, sleeping next to a burning tyre yard, maybe imbibing some of the ingredients said to be in here? Sorry Beaufort you are generally a brand I love...this is just a stretch too far for me personally, good luck to those who love it and wear it. UPDATE: Okay so my thoughts haven't changed on this one but I'm interested to note that Ambrome is now being quoted as a note on Fragrantica and it's a material included in Rake & Ruin. I have some Ambrome and it's the strangest material, smelling as it does, somewhat similar to labdanum absolute. Great right? Nope! It's actually soured my appreciation for labdanum and perhaps used in Minuit quantities might be really effective but the raw stuff or if you put too much in....Jesus it's awful! Maybe that's a contributing factor to why I hate this so much? In any case although I didn't smell it (I would've definitely mentioned it in my review) it doesn't surprise me to see it in here.
The opening of this fragrance is incredibly icky and sweet with a tuberose that has that bubblegum quality you can sometimes get. I didn't notice the rhubarb in truth but that could've been conspiring to create that pink hubba bubba opening? 611 becomes heavily exotic and heady with what I perceive as ylang ylang, but could just be the tuberose mellowing out. Also adding to this I got a almost boozy tonka/caramel base underneath but this is likely the sweet benzoin/vanilla and you do get a touch of licorice too. It's interesting reading the notes now and comparing to what I thought they might've been. Anyway...this fragrance does transition a long way staying quite floral but then drying down to basically a vanilla sweet benzoin which is probably my favourite part. At first I thought it was clumsy, flouncy, perfumery and overly ballsy in a Mugler kind of way. This perfume reminded me of the trend of this and the mini resurgence of late with everyone and their dog banging on about Byron Mula Mula with which this has some similarities. Opening hour or two was a bit rough going but then as it developed I really liked it, I'd say it's more feminine leaning for me.
Straight forward scent this one. A fragrance which is somewhat green, but with a lightly powdery, floral citrus opening. Then becoming more and more of a clean, soapy accord with and unmistakable chamomile note. I'll be honest I didn't think much of it, I'm not sure what this perfume costs (just looked it's £135 for 100ml) so actually not extortionate and I suppose if you like the freshness of it then fine, but it's not my bag at all.
This is a stunning fragrance! Just when you think you're a real connoisseur of rose and have had every conceivable supporting note in every composition that would be rose dominant but still have original elements and most importantly....work. You're hit with something else. I always avoid rose fragrances that are said to be aimed at females thinking I won't enjoy them...foolish. Anyway the fact there's two roses listed is very curious because that's how it comes off...a purple, red jammy rose and a lighter, brighter, cleaner fresher rose. Turkish and Bulgarian harmony for you. The background of patchouli giving heft and sweetness rather than raw earth, the sandalwood and vanilla/amber is not particularly creamy or distinct but something about the sum of these parts make a stunning perfume. Really this is an absolute knockout and I'm so glad, coming from left field because I'm not looking for a rose perfume but I think one might have found me.
Well I'm a little surprised not to see cloves in the notes, if not even as a cursory mention. I have a got of a problem with this fragrance though because vast swathes of it I don't enjoy. I don't hate cloves and actually I can Identify that this isn't quite a clove note it's a bit clovey but worse.... I don't know if that makes sense? The opening is a thumbs up, nice feel, fresh, musky, spicy and the notes don't give any clues as to what could be bothering me. It's just a concoction I'm not enjoying. This is the masculine counterpart to the Fem one, which let me just give you a spoiler...is FANTASTIC!!! I will try again and update, maybe it was my nose?
Is the name really so ironic? Herba London were gracious enough to send me the samples of the entire line so I can't be too harsh...haha...but they strike me as the kind of brand for Nathan Barley types. Even down to the branding which is a clever mixture of LeLabo, Byredo, Heeley and even newer still...Byron. I'm being careful not to sound too cynical because, whether they are aware of these brands or not.... clean, modern, sterility actually appeals to lots of people me included. So I hoped this perfume wouldn't be a disappointment and it isn't! Very competent and resembles something I would normally enjoy, smokey a little moody perhaps? Urban hipster opens with a biting pepper note and instant smokey vetiver. It's a dry, incense/woody perfume with all the dirtier side of sandalwood, a curiously modern tobacco which was only apparent when it had settled right down eventually drying down to a familiar warm resinous smell of old book amber and vetiver. Is this what imagine a hipster to smell of? Yes. Brief met as far as I'm concerned, but will real actual hipsters wear it? Either being so postmodern they can poke fun at their own social pigeonhole, which would actually be the kind of self aware, twatty thing that a hipster would do. Sorry...do you see how biased I am against them? I suppose it's just fashion and the way they groom themselves and should be judged on the content of their character. (To paraphrase Dr King ;) I'm sure there's loads of lovely ones :) ...but I wouldn't know because I'm too busy laughing at the beardy wankers to approach them and find out! Loads to enjoy here, especially if you like tobacco fragrances, things like Man 2 or GPH1 or dry spicy stuff in general, maybe Andy Tauer fans or amber lovers? Like I said loads to like. I've only tried on my wrist so I will update if anything changes after wearing but I think I got the measure of this one. Thumbs up from me!
