If you ever wondered what an 80’s fruity floral smell(ed)s like, here you have it! Main difference? Bigger sillage, long lasting and downright sexy. Clandestine, coming out a year after Poison, was a departure from Fidji and J’ai Osé. And it inevitably borrowed some of it. And from La Nuit. Starting out plummy and liquor like, Clandestine doesn’t take much time to show what it’s all about. Underneath a short lived metal ray of aldehydes, the top is about fruit. Big, decaying fruit. Plum, peach, a slightly pissy blackcurrant... it’s playful, carefree but yet, debaucherous. It also crams big bold flowers; tuberose, rose, jasmine...add some ylang with its custardy sweetness and a big dollop of honey, and what you get is a massively indolic heart. Sexy, decadent, narcotic. There’s a powdery veil that prevents it from going all the way...yet. But the drydown! Oh, the drydown, long and skanky filled with the last remains of honey, carnation, and joined by a big slice of civet and musk, dims the lights and lets the animal out. Clandestine starts fun and sexy, goes wild midway down the night, ending up in a dark alley making out with a stranger. There’s a ‘Poisonesque’ fruitiness, the same dirtiness of La Nuit but dialed down a bit, and lots of class. For all it’s notes and progression, Clandestine could just as easily go to a party, to a gala, or for dinner and drinks. 80’s volume, and yet, there’s a bit of elegance taken from earlier decades. The animalic aspect is far more amplified on warm skin, but never reaching the levels of other monsters. A fruity floral with a kick! Yeap! Just like they don’t make ‘em anymore. Review based on a splash from 1986 (Edt). Sillage and longevity? I’ll see you in the morning!
Hold on to your hats people, this fragrance is not for the faint of heart and this is not my declaration of surprise or disdain at this fact, I'm well and truly onboard the skankier side of things as a fan of artisan oud. You can't say that this doesn't deserve to proudly display oud in the title because it proudly displays it in the composition that's for certain! Pissara is a perfumer that I've heard a lot about without sampling much of her output, in fact I think this is only my second Dusita. She's become famed for being some sort of floral savant or flower whisperer, creating some of the most innovative and evocative floral accords in recent memory. I only have Splendiris to go on and I thought it was very acomplished, this is a completely different vibe to say the least. Opens with a blast of castoreum,(not the civet listed here) rough/sharp, floral/musky and of course leathery, personally I love it! It's like boozy malt whisky and fresh leather, but it quickly turns into the fine cheese that is the oud material in here. Now I know the country of origin doesn't necessarily define the smell of the oud but I have laos, Cambodia, India etc... split into categories in my mind, probably by the first material I smelled from there? This falls somewhere in the Cambodian-Indian variety of strong, very vivid barnyard/manure but with a complexity of an aged material, that has absorbed lots of life experience. Going from tobacco, spicy cigar wrapper and pepper, to full poop. It has a dancing rose type note, sandalwood and a powder which probably adds to that dirty/clean effect and the association with babies nappies. Well as someone who has recently had to deal with nappies, let me tell you this stuff has you sniffing and sniffing to try to better understand the unusual nature of a fecal edged but phantasmagorical, mind poem that is this fragrance. I think the blend perfectly captures an unforgiving attar, casually smeared on to skin and don't get me wrong it's not as brutal as some civet/castoreum perfumes or a potent Indian oud oil for example, this is quite reserved if you have an extremeists palate or are used to undiluted raw materials like ambergris and deer musk. This is classical stuff in the sense that it's rose/oud/sandalwood/musk etc... but presented in such a way by a brand with largely floral output that it raises eyebrows. Okay so I understand that civet replacement is something which has this sort of vibe, unpleasant, faecal etc... however my experience is that it stays on the skin the drydown when everything has gone in a kind of dirty protest. Oudh Infini, if you can last through the wave after wave of skank, you get treated to an almost darkly spiced woods and no cheesey oud at all. Bare in mind this is hours into the experience but still, it's about the most divine thing imaginable, cozy and like nothing else out there. I thought it was a knockout, bold, refreshing and a really well made perfume because despite the quality of oud being so paramount to the success of this perfume, the surrounds & setting make this stuff special, because it doesn't just smell of oud, and that's a difficult balancing act to perform. Wearability for me personally would only be on very special occasions when I felt in the mood for something racy and opulent. A real experience though and the price likely reflects the rare, raw natural ingredients inside. Bravo!
I think when TonyT says 'this kind of scent' that speaks volumes. Is Laudano nero a fair comparison because it's in the same genre? In my opinion...Fuck no! LN is a great perfume that has been available for a really decent price on discount websites for a long time now. However, this Carner is superior in every way and doesn't have as much of the play doe, kind of resinous drydown of LN.(Although I get that aspect of the comparison) This is sharp, sweet impactful labdanum at it's absolute finest, shining out of the opening like a beacon of loveliness. This has more of a suede/leathery effect and oriental spice of incense and papyrus. I get loads of vanilla, whether it's from vanilla or benzoin it gives a light creaminess but never tips over into being too smooth, maintaining the rough edges. There's a very fleeting moment just after the opening notes, and just before where you'd say it's officially 'settled' that it has a real, animalic smelling out note, Only for a very brief period and it's gone, dissipating into a spicy, wood smell, kinda like a microcosm of how artisan oud goes on a dries down but sped up into the space of a matter of seconds as opposed to hours or even days! I've discussed this fragrance with others who said it was dark and in another review I wrote I described it as the interplay of darkness and light....or some pretentious shit like that? This isn't anything particularly new to me, reminiscent of Alessandro Gualtieri's work that kind of heft...for want of a better term? Merely a re calibration, a tweaking of elements I love, but what a tweak! I adore this, lasts really well, clung to clothes madly, projecting and just enough innovation to capture my attention and make me crave it. Black Afgano and Laudano Nero and even Carner's own El Born didn't get me as excited. Black Calamus is a bit of magic!
So glad that firstly I stumbled upon this really old sample (from when it was first released) in my samples box and secondly that I didn’t review it once upon a time, likely calling it a jammy rose concoction I’m unlikely to wear, because I’d have to retract that. Through messing around with hobbiest perfumery it’s often said that rose and geranium are similar in their metallic feel and can be complementary but I’ve never really thought so. Not looking at the notes for this I’d forgotten what it was all about and you’re instantly greated my a faceted jammy fruity rose then a slightly more powdery Bulgarian rose, basically a well rounded rose accord with the best of both aspects. There’s a hint of decay but then a minty wave of geranium, cooling, bright a touch green and metallic. Reasonably long lasting, strong at first, but not loud and a perfect mixture of bright n breezy with the merest suggestion of darkness. It’s a superb rose. Not the deepest or most velvety but by tastes have adapted over the years since I first tried this and the combination of rose and geranium is something I really love now, excellent.
Well let me be the first to say (I quite literally am) that this fragrance is 'meh' at best. You know when you were a kid and you did something wrong and your parents said "We're not angry...we're disappointed." that old chestnut? Well this is that, personified in a fragrance. I looked at the way it was presented and the name, and made certain assumptions and judgements that were clearly in error. Oud....before anyone else can say it ....WHAT OUD?!?!? I'm normally devils advocate to those who expect artisan oud in every scent that dares to have oud in the name and this time I don't care either. I'm more miss led by the 'Occult' part of the title, this stuff is far from occult especially after a week sampling NOT perfumes...now that's occult! Anyway back to oud, I perceive of a woodiness which is transparent and a bit like Tom Ford Oud wood, not very 'real oud' like and not even synthetic either. However now that it's dried down I get a characteristic synth oud smell, of liquorice and ebony/rosewood emerging and again it's not unpleasant. The opening has definitely got a candied orange smell and it's reminiscent of a much better fragrance in Hope by Agonist. Then there's the vanilla or more accurately a vanillin smell, quite custard like and not overly cloying or anything, I like it and I'm not a snob about 'real' vanilla particularly, although I do concede it is more faceted and complex smelling. This stuff reminds of a panna cotta, it has a creaminess but it's also a little gelatinous and see-through.
Yeah yeah Nima80...that’s all very nice but is it ‘beastmode’ and does it get you compliments? In all seriousness I enjoyed the poem and look forward to explore the relationship and eagerly anticipate my samples when they arrive and I will update with a proper review.
Me oh my oh me oh my!!! I made that jokey comment below clearly satirising philistinism but perhaps I shouldn’t have been so flippant about Ithaka because it’s magic. (As I suspected it would be) Now this still isn’t going to be a ‘proper’ review yet because I only had one little spritz but boy oh boy was I impressed. I was instantly transported, into the poetic narrative behind Mendittorosa’s creations this one didn’t require any thought about composition or anything else for that matter the smell is divine. The incense opening is clearly driven by the sweeter more opulent resins styrax, and very much labdanum to start with. Then a sweetness of vanilla which might just be coming from the warmth of benzoin, all of which is familiar but assembled in a nigh on perfect way, the labdanum dying back and some of the less jagged components making for a mellow drydown. To say this fragrance is perfect at this early stage would be foolish but it’s very very nice indeed and might well be the perfect excuse to get myself one of these fine perfumes. Anyone who loves big warm, resinous, sweet orientals will love this. I love this.
Notes look interesting. TF output is seemingly relentless at the moment and it hasn’t all been good, consider me intrigued about this one.
Beast mode - Best summer Issey I own
Citrus opening. Versace Eros dry down.
I like it. However, there's nothing inspiring about it whatsoever and it's about as dynamic as some blueprints for a trouser press. The lavender has the same lovely, quality in the opening as Lavender Palm a fragrance I realise this is not the 'Extreme' version of but it's the closest old Tom release so...it basically is. I don't like Lavender Palm incidentally but I kinda have more respect for it that this. LP was a waxy floral heart, awfully lactonic, fatty even and with a salty, seaweed accord giving loads of dynamics to the lavender. This is a kinda sweet coumarin and vanilla haze, and does have a minor almond quality alluding to Soleil blanc and Fuckin' Fab! He's basically made another fougere (to join the raft of them they just released) but minus some of the elements that give a fougere interest, woody accords, greeness and oakmoss or patchouli whatever? I'm not going to be too hard on Lavender extreme because it smells lovely and the creamy base looms larger and sweeter than something like Caron Homme, which is the same combination just with a more subdued vanilla. Some people have questioned the quality levels of TF's recent releases and I'm sure the 'Extreme' label puts some people off. However, The 'Extremes' have gotten off to a good start for me, The Oud Wood one is much better than the original Oud Wood in my humble opinion but this one has nothing extreme about it. Even though I didn't like Lavender Palm, I respected it and an extreme of that which was truly even more hardcore, would've maybe been welcomed by fans of the original. Instead we get this, slightly lacking effort. I like the shiny bottle though, so there's that.
Can never work out which I prefer out of this and Parfum d'Hermes as they are quite similar. I re familiarised myself with rouge Hermes yesterday and I have to say I enjoy it's themes. Powdery rose, talcum powder soft musk, and an exotic soft fruity peach/apricot vibe from Ylang and smoothness of sandalwood and orris/iris in the base. There's also a hint of cloves which with the powdery florals creates a subtle effect of carnation to my nose. Dries down quite feminine and although I don't pay that too much attention and only bring it up as there are several Hermes fragrances I'd like ahead of this, which just happen to be a little more masculine leaning. That's my take!
Well, it's not surprising to see so many negative reviews, I was a little shocked by this and the blue one (forget the name) and just how cookie cutter, men's designer, woody aquatic, synthetic these are. I don't just mean material wise because I suspect the cedar and patchouli etc... in some of the rest of this line are synthetic not too mention 'green' notes. However, they have some jardin feel to them, curious that Nagel is at the helm for both of these I think? I'm not offended or anything, stuff moves on, I just think this is a slightly uninspiring, floral, woody, aquatic, which opens like a drift wood, and 90's aquatic thing doesn't transition that much but the very last skin remnants smell like a salty, jasmine/hedione approximation and some woody synth base bizz. Some folks don't think this represents the heritage of the brand very well, and they may have a point.
Okay so this is nothing short of fantastic! I'm pretty sure this one didn't exist in the old style bottles, or I'd have tried it for sure. Anyway I have now and the opening is sumptuous as hell, a chocolate accord which feels rounded and deeper than a poof of cacao. It's warm, sort of musky, sweet and creamy but not too much so and has a bitterness delivered by the finest dark chocolate. What is apparent is a kind of coffee note too, in fact I'd say the sense of coffee liqueur is there from the get go. Could even be tonka in here too? I've no doubt that patchouli is adding to both the effect of chocolate and a natural smooth earthiness, with a peppery, smoke from what can only be described as an incense accord. Then the base is woody as anything and this 'Oud noir' that is mentioned on the little card I also sprayed and put in my pocket, is responsible for this opulent, leathery, spiced wood smell. I don't know the origin of the 'oud' and frankly I don't care, Sleek suede is a knockout regardless. The best part about this fragrance is that it's not a gourmand in the sense of it existing to emulate food or just be a 'smell' of the sake of it. Sleek suede feels like perfume, rather than an attempt to have a 'foodie' one in the line. I love Indy perfumers don't get me wrong, and much of the time have a bias towards them for the creativity and lack of regard for the so called 'rules'. However, some perfumes have that, 'I trained in Grasse' sort of feel, a kind of untouchable, jus ne sais que. The sort of subtlety that makes you marvel at it. Sleek suede is one of those, sadly it's quite pricey or I'd want a bottle and I'd prioritise it too. I wasn't looking for a gourmand but this one found me in the middle of summer, I love it!
Well funnily enough, I'm on the coattails of Christi, yet again and in fact her's was one of the few reviews I actually allowed myself to read before trying these. I felt it was informative and entertaining but somehow 'spoiler free' at the same time which is a great quality to have. I've got to say I concur completely with the consensus that Miracle of roses is a startlingly unique interpretation of a 'rose based' (or at least has it in the title) perfume and without over egging it too much, restoring faith in the creativity of Indy perfumers, not that it was in danger. What I mean is... this release is made more Poignant because rose is such a difficult material to put your own mark upon.I think Miguel Matos has managed that. I really can't pick out a Ta'if or a Moroccan or a damask rose in here, it's not one to be fathomed easily, just sit back and enjoy. In fact the top notes in this fragrance give it a warm, oriental feel with a gourmand sense that we will come to in a moment. The rose really is nestled between a milky, nutmeg and cinnamon spiced smell and a kind of incense like accord, maybe olibanum? but that's not even giving the foodie associations, more a sense of sexy, warmth. There's a bready note and I do mean bready, not brioche or baked goods sweet, I'm talking more savoury and wheaty, but it's never to the extent of Serge Luten's Jeux de peau a fragrance I've always wanted to like, but just could never wear because frankly...it's horrible. Another thing is that this doesn't feel too opulent or regal to me, or even perfumey with more of a muted feel. (in a really good way) This is fantastic and proabably my pick of the bunch. I haven't worn it properly but I suspect it will be a rewarding experience and Miguel should be proud and really be praised for a fine piece of work in Miracle of Roses. I think I want a bottle?
Sooooo... I was aware of Miguel because between us we've graced more fragrantica pages than a Luckyscent ad!! But never really properly put a face or character to the articles I'd read here, until I saw more of Miguel on Instagram. This coincided with the release of his modest selection of fragrances, so seeing behind the scenes somewhat, him sat at his perfume organ etc... I was highly anticipating what he could some up with. Germaine is the first one I tried and baring in mind that I only dabbed once then spritzed some on my arm a second time and don't tend to like to post a review until I can 'wear' something properly. Having said all that I think the conclusion with Germaine is that I really like it...but with caveats of course. The opening to me at least is a very peppery, smoky, dry vetiver and despite being a base note in my experience can oddly manifest in the opening in this way. I think it gives an unusual impression but not entirely misleading because this fragrance is very woody and grounded in dry, earthiness. Having said that the next phase comes on within a matter of seconds and it's an incredible, blossoming, violet note/accord which is almost visual in it's progression, by that I mean you can figuratively 'see' it coming. Its a little powder purple, button mushroom, popping it's way out of the earthy undergrowth, which by now is even tinged with a kind of leathery aspect. This opens out into a poof of powdery and sweet violet, I mean it's very much the penhaligon's violetta variety, transporting me to my youth and chomping on Parma violet sweets. Then as it reaches a crescendo in the first fifteen minutes or so, beginning to play peekaboo with a much more woody, dry and distinctly 'Indy' perfume flavour of parched, Ionone heavy, floral, woods. This 'Indy' smell I describe is at the heart of this fragrance and it's a mulched, paper sort of stale, woodiness (perhaps the herbal sage?). It reminds me of primary school and that rough, sugar/craft paper that you used to get, or a roughly pulped, jotter or exercise book cover. To be perfectly honest this is my least favourite aspect of this fragrance but are we due for another twist in the tale? Yes!! It comes in the form of the vetiver and leathery note/accord reemerging and giving more heft and making it much more enjoyable for me. I actually think that Germaine is a really good example of light and shade and balancing apposing aroma auras (if you like?) to make something cohesive and something I enjoy. A good start for me with Miguel's stuff but not something I'd rush to add to my collection.
Okay so I was mightily impressed by Golden Neroli, a really fantastic mixture of natural and futuristic, kinda minimal perfumery. Having said that many brands that rely heavily on their natural virtues are too minimalist and reliant on one amazing centrepiece whereas these feel a bit more like true compositions. The Labdanum in the name is a touch misleading but as I wear this I can't help but feeling without it this fragrance wouldn't be as good. I think it's working a catalyst in more of a supporting role, pulling everything together. It's not overt, you do get a bit when initially sprayed I'd say the opening is sweetly resinous but it soon reveals the true players in this scent. Patchouli clearly emerges, cloaked in a kind of metallic tinged, herbal aspect. This could be the clary sage listed? although it doesn't smell like the one I know from other fragrances or the EO material I have. However, after reapplying after several hours (not because it was a bad performer more to get the opening again) I have to say the opening has the herbal masculinity I hadn't picked up of first time, coupled with sweetness, it's actually extremely appealing almost heavenly to me. It actually smells a little reminiscent of golden neroli in that the citrus (which lasts throughout btw) has a bitter grapefruit and petitgrain herbal, green aspect to it. The orange note to me is undeniable too especially in the opening and blends fantastically with patchouli, a combo I have used in a creation of my own. Patchouli here is really lovely, light and lacking that overly chunky, chocolate or rubbery note you can get. This is a bright patch, with just the right amount of earth, I really like it a lot. This is an original composition but just because I like to do this, I'm going to give some examples of perfumes it evokes. Firstly Jo Malone Oud and Bergamot, the freshness the woodiness, the fact that it doesn't smell like oud or bergamot? Secondly, By Killian Straight to heaven, which is much darker and boozier etc... however the patchouli comes across with the same translucency. Thirdly, Lush Lord of Misrule a fragrance that is definitely heavier and spicier, more hippy and full bodied in it's patch dominance but has the citrus/herbal aspect of the Jo Malone O&B running throughout. Loved this. Only two from this line down and they are both superb.
Wow! I thought I loved Venenum kiss for one reason and it turns out I actually love it for another. When I tried it in store I was treated to what I perceived as quite a kitsch, pastiche of a fluffy, pink fragrance echoed by the colour of the perfume itself. It still is this hot pink Cadillac of a scent with an extremely fruity, Jammy rose accord in the opening clearly backed with vanilla, it’s crystal clear and almost too cloying and too much to bare after about 30 minutes. I’m not one for labelling a fragrance too feminine for being sweet and rosy but VK nearly had me beat. However it’s when the Base notes of creamy sweet sandalwood and vanilla and a heart of leathery and opulent saffron take over this fragrance transforms (and not even in smell because all this is there from the get go) with the rose dying back and everything else chiming in, exuding quality. There’s something modern about it that I love, it has an almost pop art attitude, technicolour and unabashed. I really like it, I must say.
Totally confused by this fragrance. It’s either a work of stirring, modern, genius or a unusual and synthetic take on the classical citrus fragrance. The base is just plain aroma chemical woody warmth, I’m not saying I don’t like it, in fact I’m very fond of it this sort of stuff, just seems like an odd and jarring sidestep for this line, (certainly the green and citrus ones anyway) and left me a little confused. I got Basenotes of synthetic Amberone cedar, and even synthetic Oud but definitely a heavy leathery slightly smoky accord. The citrus opening isn’t even that bright or dominant to mask this effect, and Citron Noir comes straight out of the bottle a touch on the harsh side for me. As I mentioned I do kinda like it but not enough to buy or wear again.
I'm a big fan of Ormonde Jayne and I've pretty much tried everything from the brand even the new Elixir's, so it was a bit odd that this didn't stand out first time, but it certainly has on this revisit. Schoen's output for this brand has to be marvelled at clearly a fusion of his modern architecture and more traditional luxury brand naturalism. They all have a neutrality and balance without being bland, sort of inscrutable but not lacking definition. Nawab of Oudh is no exception in fact it's pretty special stuff, The opening is airy, cool and aldehydic and the feel Geza manages to capture is OJ to a T and although doesn't smell like it has the same vibe as Montabaco. The rose note is so delicate just suspended and floating through the middle of the composition. Because this has the same synthetic feel as many Ormonde Jayne's I would say there's real oud, It's not overt though like the Cambodian oud added to Ta'if Elixir but this is more the slightly rubbery, woody variety. Some warm in this just a heavenly drydown caps off a stunning fragrance. This is not the most hardcore or 'Oud' fragrances so if you're after that look elsewhere.
These NOT Perfumes have an interesting concept and exploitation of a 'loophole' (as Joanna Venables calls it) is what drew me in really. The whole Nordic/pagan/celtic style appeals to me, they are almost a bit black metal or something? (NOT that I'm a fan of that) Right down to the constant double negatives and the Borat inflected marketing statements which I found as tedious as the fragrances...Nahhhht!!! (tee hee) Vaan is a murky, dirty vanilla fragrance which doesn't seem for a second like it's a NOT a deliberate stylistic choice, but perhaps I've giving too much credit? This is actually quite, animal quite intimate but chaotic...if it was a colour it would be dark brorange a deep shade of yurquoise. Vaan has the feeling of something that has been left to ferment or hung to age like some artisan meat or cheese? Or more aptly Oud or Ambergris. In fact I wouldn't be surprised if Ambergris featured in here, it does have animal facets and that grounded feeling you get from perfume anchored with treasured whale vomit/turd. So the opening is actually quite resinous, darker resins I'd say myrrh, labdanum, opoponax, tolu etc... but it's never all about those, the most prominent and growing note is one of cocao. This merges into the general warm naturalist feel of the purfume, and smells maybe a touch like patchouli but still warmly, vanillic, kinda furry but never over sweet. The drydown strips back the chocolate and becomes that little bit more resinous again. This was a nice experience, I don't if having prior knowledge of the origins of the brand gives this impression but something about Vaan is incredibly Scandinavian, almost viking like and this fragrance is a big pussycat really. It has spooky forest vibes all over it though. Now I'm not sure but there seems to be a large constituent of naturals in these, you can just tell. The statement about the NOT being perfume because they clearly aren't complying with any guidelines is slightly lost on me and I think it's because I just associate banned stuff oakmoss (wrongly coz there's loads of restricted materials) but because there's not even one that has super predominant oakmoss or animal notes I just feel a bit disappointed. That's with the line in general...Vaan is one of my favourites but they are all worth sniffing out. The initial strength and potency does die back very quickly but the drydowns are often long, evolutionary affairs. NOT has my vote.
Sorry not a fan. My history with the Ideal line was bewilderment at the first one, despite understanding the older Guerlain's it was nodding to. Then elation at the later ones the edp and Parfum (I think they are called?) As they really doubled down on the coumarin/tonka oriental gourmand elements making fragrances that weren't just a sort of modern mess, but rather a clearly recognised vision....in my humble opinion of course. However, there was another flanker in the line which took the acceptable face of Ideal and made it even more 'fresh' and mass appealing in the cologne version...cue alarm bells in my head. To my surprise this one really worked, the bitter, sharp grapefruit top combined with that milky almond base just worked incredibly well, finally I started to 'get' the line and enjoyed the others much more as a result. So after that brief history of my thoughts on Guerlain Ideal comes Ideal Cool and frankly it's a step too far for me. I must say the coolness is certainly evoked in the smell, giving a superbly airy, cool effect. I think people who like this will really like it because it's undoubtedly created with Guerlain's usual carefully consideration. I just don't like the combination of almond, tonka bean and smooth woodiness with aquatic and minty notes. I get the balance, mint kinda works with vetiver and in turn with the rest of the composition you can pick out aspects that chime well in both contexts, neroli for example. I just don't like it personally and I believe this is the replacement for Ideal Cologne which is little sad but I suppose things have to move on. I will have to try it again as nothing about my feeling on this line would surprise me, I might end up reverting my position, stranger things have happened. for now it's a No though.
Nobody? Not one person has reviewed this yet and that just about sums up this brand and this scent for me. Oh there's nothing wrong with the smell of it. I fell head over heels for this fragrance it's superb, The problem is that these are victims of absurd packaging and marketing. The perfumers they have on board are very competent and some of the ideas are really great, they all feel a little safe or not very artisan or indy, more like designer crowd pleasers (not true of ALL of course) and that's very much what Vibrant scent is. Let's start with the name...I mean come on? it's a bit lack lustre isn't it? But it's a scent and it's vibrant so no one could accuse them of false advertising and I guess I'm the asshole here? The opening is a pink pepper and smoothed out nutmeg/cardamom to my nose and it's heavenly I mean really special stuff, but wearable and accessible. There's generally a synthetic feel to Vibrant scent I'd say, but in a good way. If this was a designer fragrance even a higher priced but still 'designer' Tom Ford I'd march to the counter with it but it's not. Some odd brand that look like Montale bottles if they were cast in a Marvel franchise (Quoting myself from previous reviews again....I'm such a dick!) and this is partly what I think alienates me. Still maybe this will be marked down one day and I'll be able to pick it up cheap online, this brand has that feeling it won't be long before that happens. The base is a kind of cuddly cosy sandlewood creamy orris and casherean which I adore and I think that's what gives the nutmegish vibes in the opening. I'm actually in love with this fragrance but it's too exensive or I would've bough it, also performance isn't exactly brilliant but I can forgive it because wearing it was a very pleasurable experience. Reminds me of the style of 90's/2000's designer men's stuff like By D&G, Gucci Envy and Rush. All sadly discontinued. I want to like the brand and I'm really not one to complain all that much about money, I mean if you love it you can find the money but with so many other things vying for my affections this does get bumped down the list. Please try it though because if you like stuff I like this is a peach of a fragrance.
It's taken me a while to finally sample this one and surprising too because although I don't own the original Declaration I have great affection for it's themes and it's place in men's designer perfumery. So to say this mirrors the original is completely accurate, in that it's a spicy affair with a fresh opening but that's where the comparison's end for one simple reason...genre. They are essentially the same fragrance done in different genre's. The original is a fresh, citrus Eau de Cologne type fragrance with a juniper sharpness and quinine feeling of a freshly poured G'n' T. In fact this is some kind of sorcery whereby botanicals with cumin/cardamom are infused into the spirit, giving this thorough yet at the same time, airy effect. This parfum version is not just a cranked concentration but an oriental re imagining, abandoning the fresh feel of the original declaration for what I would consider a much more complimentary and expected resinous base. This is beautiful with the cumin spice, giving a sort of smooth, suede leather effect, some cleaner aspects because It can't go too avant garde after all. I need to test it again properly but I thought it was fantastic, faithful to the original Declaration but way more up my street in terms of it's resinous quality. I want a bottle simple.
Okay so this is my second Hiram Green review having sampled most of the line now and my thoughts are mixed. Not just because of taste or my preferences, but in as objective a sense as I can be. My opinion now that I've dabbled myself in blending perfume (in a cackhanded manner but still) is that there's somewhat of an over reliance on fantastic featured materials and not quite enough innovation for me. I'm also aware how naive this comment is, knowing just how hard it is to create a base that will hold or top notes that will pop through, also why not showcase amazing things??? Like tuberose/ jasmine concretes or honey or Bulgarian rose absolute?? They are wonderful things! So my critique is minimal in light of these facts because the quality is clearly there and plain for all to see, but I like a perfume to be slightly more layered whether in a classical sense or a more challenging one. The main note/accord having many facets is not quite the same. So that being said Hyde was one that I could smell in the bag of samples I got (as it had leaked slightly) and infected he others with a MASSIVE birch tar smoke that is almost visible from space. When applied, and though it is strong sure, it actually becomes a bit of a pussycat on me. The smokiness it's self is raw but has a hay like, cade quality with a massively malty undertone and a spicy aspect which doesn't quite go into that BBQ'd meat smell nor does it go thin & harsher like the direct smoke from a garden fire. This is hefty and rounded but mellows down into a cozy, warm skin smoke and hyper woody effect. The malt in this fragrance is the key underpinning birch tar and when it's appreciated from a distance(not literally), is actually really good and far more wearable to me than many other smoky concoctions. The key difference being many smoky Indy/niche fragrances kinda go for shock and awe and that's exactly what I I had this one pegged as. Like a macho bro off, who can eat the hottest chilli or whatever?? What brand can go the smokiest and most dark. Well instead of starting out massive and progressively just smouldering away (imagery intended) actually starting to grate on your nerves after a short time and persisting for hours. Hyde actually improves over the course of wearing, after arguably one of the more potent openings in this genre it becomes quite subdued and a very pleasant experience. Nothing can touch the colossal Slowdive though and I'm wearing it today just magic. Hyde is good for those who like a malty fragrance as well as a smoky one and that's just something to bear in mind.
