Germaine, from Miguel Matos was released in 2019. The perfumer behind this creation is Miguel Matos. It has the top notes of Bergamot, Juniper, and Lavender, middle notes of Basil, Sage, and Violet, and base notes of Leather, Musk, Patchouli, and Vetiver.
Sooooo... I was aware of Miguel because between us we've graced more fragrantica pages than a Luckyscent ad!! But never really properly put a face or character to the articles I'd read here, until I saw more of Miguel on Instagram. This coincided with the release of his modest selection of fragrances, so seeing behind the scenes somewhat, him sat at his perfume organ etc... I was highly anticipating what he could some up with. Germaine is the first one I tried and baring in mind that I only dabbed once then spritzed some on my arm a second time and don't tend to like to post a review until I can 'wear' something properly. Having said all that I think the conclusion with Germaine is that I really like it...but with caveats of course. The opening to me at least is a very peppery, smoky, dry vetiver and despite being a base note in my experience can oddly manifest in the opening in this way. I think it gives an unusual impression but not entirely misleading because this fragrance is very woody and grounded in dry, earthiness. Having said that the next phase comes on within a matter of seconds and it's an incredible, blossoming, violet note/accord which is almost visual in it's progression, by that I mean you can figuratively 'see' it coming. Its a little powder purple, button mushroom, popping it's way out of the earthy undergrowth, which by now is even tinged with a kind of leathery aspect. This opens out into a poof of powdery and sweet violet, I mean it's very much the penhaligon's violetta variety, transporting me to my youth and chomping on Parma violet sweets. Then as it reaches a crescendo in the first fifteen minutes or so, beginning to play peekaboo with a much more woody, dry and distinctly 'Indy' perfume flavour of parched, Ionone heavy, floral, woods. This 'Indy' smell I describe is at the heart of this fragrance and it's a mulched, paper sort of stale, woodiness (perhaps the herbal sage?). It reminds me of primary school and that rough, sugar/craft paper that you used to get, or a roughly pulped, jotter or exercise book cover. To be perfectly honest this is my least favourite aspect of this fragrance but are we due for another twist in the tale? Yes!! It comes in the form of the vetiver and leathery note/accord reemerging and giving more heft and making it much more enjoyable for me. I actually think that Germaine is a really good example of light and shade and balancing apposing aroma auras (if you like?) to make something cohesive and something I enjoy. A good start for me with Miguel's stuff but not something I'd rush to add to my collection.