Clandestine, from Guy Laroche was released in 1986. The perfumer behind this creation is Daniel Moliere. It has the top notes of Aldehydes, Bergamot, Currant Leaf and Bud, Pineapple, and Plum, middle notes of Carnation, Heliotrope, Honey, Iris, Jasmine, Rose, Tuberose, and Ylang-Ylang, and base notes of Amber, Benzoin, Cedarwood, Civet, Musk, Patchouli, and Vanilla.
If you ever wondered what an 80’s fruity floral smell(ed)s like, here you have it! Main difference? Bigger sillage, long lasting and downright sexy. Clandestine, coming out a year after Poison, was a departure from Fidji and J’ai Osé. And it inevitably borrowed some of it. And from La Nuit. Starting out plummy and liquor like, Clandestine doesn’t take much time to show what it’s all about. Underneath a short lived metal ray of aldehydes, the top is about fruit. Big, decaying fruit. Plum, peach, a slightly pissy blackcurrant... it’s playful, carefree but yet, debaucherous. It also crams big bold flowers; tuberose, rose, jasmine...add some ylang with its custardy sweetness and a big dollop of honey, and what you get is a massively indolic heart. Sexy, decadent, narcotic. There’s a powdery veil that prevents it from going all the way...yet. But the drydown! Oh, the drydown, long and skanky filled with the last remains of honey, carnation, and joined by a big slice of civet and musk, dims the lights and lets the animal out. Clandestine starts fun and sexy, goes wild midway down the night, ending up in a dark alley making out with a stranger. There’s a ‘Poisonesque’ fruitiness, the same dirtiness of La Nuit but dialed down a bit, and lots of class. For all it’s notes and progression, Clandestine could just as easily go to a party, to a gala, or for dinner and drinks. 80’s volume, and yet, there’s a bit of elegance taken from earlier decades. The animalic aspect is far more amplified on warm skin, but never reaching the levels of other monsters. A fruity floral with a kick! Yeap! Just like they don’t make ‘em anymore. Review based on a splash from 1986 (Edt). Sillage and longevity? I’ll see you in the morning!