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Aramis Tuscany Per Uomo

Tuscany Per Uomo

I'm not a fan of Azzaro pour homme and I can even smell the similarities here but weirdly Tuscany per uomo has to be my favourite from Amaris. I love the bitterness of the lemon in the opening and it's truly a powerful citrus with a zesty lime to it as well! The base is the usual suspects, classic leather and oakmoss with a spicy sandalwood base and herbaceous basil and caraway too. I have to say I really enjoy this fragrance because it doesn't open harshly (except maybe the citrus) and it drys down to be more delicate and less butch than some other Aramis offerings, especially the original. I quite like this and the Longevity and projection are what you'd expect from Aramis.

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Aramis Aramis Devin

Strong, classic Aramis fragrance. I had imagined I would like this take on the Chypre but instead it just wasn't to my taste. Strong leathery pine, oakmoss and carnation classic elements blended in such a way that they are not appealing to me. I think the reason being the opening is musky, too harsh and lasts to the point where I'm put off before I can reach a dry down, which in all fairness is nice. No doubt about it this is a purely masculine animal and some will love it. Great projection and longevity.

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Montblanc Emblem

Nothing wrong with this scent at all, just insanely ordinary! It's pedestrian central Mont Blanc emblem has something inherently cheap about it. I've actually begun to revise my opinion of Mont Blanc, a luxury manufacturer with a great reputation and their fore into fragrance has to be deemed as a success to most due to the fact they have some winning fragrances. However, I've totally changed my opinion on Individuel for example and I'm not as keen on it as I used to be. Also scents like Exceptionel are frankly suffering from the same issues as Emblem...just too safe and maybe a little boring? Controversially perhaps...I think Legend is a pale version of A&F Fierce a scent which I like the smell of generally. I think if you're going to copy a fragrance at least make it on par with longevity and projection. Fierce is more intrusive for me and smells more industrial, which in a fragrance of this type is oddly better. Starwalker was 'pretty nice' but sadly discontinued I think... because I don't see it anywhere. The only one I still love is Presence which is just such an odd creamy, spicy oriental it's the only one for me with any novelty value. I think the most important thing to note is that they've never made a bad fragrance and there's not one I wouldn't wear so despite all the naysaying I do rate Mont Blanc. They choose good perfumers and solid concepts that sell. Anyway...Emblem! Emblem opens with inviting fresh citrus and maybe a hint of exotic fruit? The heart is another Tonka washout for me though very pleasant but all too familiar and very much the en vogue accord for bland designer fare at the moment. There's a hint of violet and spices, clary sage and cardamom, cinnamon is evident. This scent although not similar does lean toward Legend more than their other efforts. Likable, wearable and as many have mentioned the bottle is great and a perfect way to ram home the brands logo. I'll be honest I would like to try this fragrance again because I didn't really get much idea of longevity or projection and you never know it might grow on me?

Nah....not feeling it. I got some samples and have worn a couple of times now and I'm afraid I'm even going to revert on my original thoughts which were that this is average at best, it's not. Emblem is such a lacklustre outing from Mont Blanc very disappointing. Has that same synthetic, aquatic colone molecule thing which comes on strong in the opening and settles to a creamy Tonka affair...not good. Similar to many recent releases Invictus, Eros, and Burberry Brit rhythm. Surely there is more interesting olfactory songs to sing? Lazy stuff designed purposefully to have mass appeal, Mont Blanc have steered themselves in that direction after very original scents to begin with. Can't really blame them for chasing popular concepts they are in business after all, who cares about maintaining integrity with true fragrance fans who obviously weren't in big enough numbers to make starwalker, Individuel and Presence big sellers.

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Tauer Perfumes 04 Reverie Au Jardin

04 Reverie Au Jardin

This Tauer is typically french like classic french cuisine or something? Simple elements brought together to create something multi faceted...Andy has nailed the brief on that one. An unfamiliar take on a lavender fragrance which from the name I had incorrectly assumed was going to be a very green affair. However, Reverie au Jardin is a slightly creamy vanilla/tonka/resinous base, sweet powder from orris root and rose but classic notes of oakmoss and lavender. It's clean, nice, interesting and great for a spring/summer fragrance but ultimately not to my taste. It lasts well and projects nicely too.

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Tauer Perfumes 12 Eau D'Epices

12 Eau D'Epices

Andy Tauer just has this knack of making really unique scents. He's either a very gifted creative force or he has researched other fragrances massively because they seem to be very consciously different from anything out there...not an easy thing to do. His first two (Masculines) were great and could've been thought of as a one trick pony, not that Lonestar memories and L'air du desert Marocain smell alike but are certainly share the same signiture feeling. Having tried a few more of his fragrances now I see that he's very diverse and tackles lots of different accords in a unique way. This is not to say that they're always to my taste but I appreciate his innovative approach and commitment to the craft. So Eau D'Epices is a surprise package and strangely as complex and as many notes as it has, cinnamon is big player giving both sweetness and warmth. The opening is sweet swirling around with jasmine, orange and spices mainly of cinnamon/clove it's almost too much to bare. I think the orris root and ambergris are responsible for the sweetness too. I get labdanum and and overriding warm base of amber but here's the kicker...an orange blossom/tuberose white floral which develops and becomes the heart of Eau D'Epices. Just thought I'd mention I smell a definite tea in the drydown too...not sure what's giving that effect and it takes a while to come out but it's definitely there. That could've spelled disaster for this fragrance as I'm not a huge fan of them but it works really well with the spicing in this composition. I like this one but like many recent smaples I've tried...it's not for everyone. I'm gonna have to wear it again properly to see how it performs in a typical situation. Long lasting and good projection from what I can tell so far.

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Mazzolari Ambra

Wowee!!! What a sweet intense opening it's a fruity tangerine and bergamot then exotic ylang ylang and jasmine with labdanum. This beautiful amber accord is not for everyone and I can totally understand some being sickened by Mazzolari's Ambra. This could be construed as feminine and it sort of is but I really love it because it's warm throughout. The drydown is a total contrast to the opening, with all that stickiness and floral business out of the way it becomes a very deep and sensual amber accord with sandalwood. This for me represents a distinct gender shift because to me it becomes a more masculine affair way into the drydown. I really like the smell of Ambra it satisfies my love of Amber accords and super sweet fragrances with exotic floral elements, also expensive feeling resinous qualities...so it ticks lots of boxes. You know what though? I wouldn't wear it...far too sweet and cloying and I know it would get on my nerves after a while, this is one I can appreciate from afar. If I smelled this on a woman... I think I would fall in love. I understand why this one has the votes divided...not everyone's cup o tea.

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Carthusia Numero Uno

Numero Uno can't help but have high expectations with a name like that. It's a classic take on the chypre type perfume I'd have sworn there's oakmoss in here as it has that trditional feel. In essence it's a woody warm, slightly floral, herbal, musk fragrance. Opens with bergamot and clean vetiver then the sharp labdanum, and myhrr start to come through. Then as it dries down settles to a more herbal type fragrance with patchouli, all these elements excellently balanced and don't take long to transition & quickly settle into a singular entity. I get a kind of animal smell, it's a natural one of pheromones, like skin or more specifically...scalp. Bare with me on this one. Some fragrances evoke this quality of when I kiss my girlfriend on the top of her head and I get a slightly herbal, soapy, shampoo, hair and warm scalp smell. Sounds a bit pervy I know...I don't have a scalp fetish honestly. So a good fragrance then...good but not great. It certainly communicates what it needs to with clarity and has good longevity and projection on my skin.

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Odin 03 Century

I was just through thinking how I've enjoyed all the ODIN samples I've tried so far without exception but not one has blown me away yet and I was really hoping Century would be the one to really wow me! I had a sneaking suspicion it wouldn't but that's no attitude to take into a blind fragrance test! Anyway....as I applied Century I was treated to a sweet opening of vanilla, amber and myrrh which set my pulse racing! It's an almost caramelised sweetness but you can tell it has a base firmly rooted in woods...yet it's not very woody in a tradition sense...if that makes sense??? Maybe it's the combination of birch tar, vetiver and patchouli that lend it the quality? I dunno? The mint note is there and comes on after a couple of minutes but it's very soft indeed, no sharp, cold menthol blast more of a hint of creamy peppermint . I found it unpleasant in this middle stage and a bit lacklustre after an opening I perceived as beautiful Century started to turn on me. Now I'm just bored by it, it's still smells good and arguably nicer again as it dries down but strength wise it's very poor I'm lucky to get a couple of hours from it. I will be wearing it again and will update this review if my second wear somehow liberates some magic...but somehow I doubt it. I have to hand it to Century I audibly moaned in a sexual manner when I first smelled it (not many fragrances make that happen!) but it just disappointed thereafter. Like sleeping with a beautiful woman then waking up in the morning and realising she will probably never love you, you have nothing in common, it'll never last! Realising... ultimately you're alone in the world.

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Odin 08 Seylon

Seylon from ODIN opens with citrus and a bitter orange which remains throughout. The vetiver comes on after the settling few seconds and it's a slightly smoky earthy texture with a definite hint of nutmeg. When everything settles finally the vetiver becomes very clean and woody with oakmoss and the warmth of benzoin too but with an almost powdery feel. It's a very good interpretation of vetiver nothing jarring or cloying, no intrusive top notes and the drydown only improves the overall smell. ODIN continue to impress me with their repertoire of fragrances, their signature seems to be warmth and balance. I'd wear ODIN 08 Seylon but I'm not crazy about it, if you like scents like Tom Fords Grey vetiver you will like this one.

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Tauer Perfumes Pentachords Verdant

Pentachords Verdant

Pentachord verdant is a dark horse it's not like anything I've tried before, which is something that Andy Tauer does well and should be proud of. The opening is a fresh blast of green leaves and the unmistakable scent of ivy encased in a puff of smoke which quickly dissipates. This is quickly backed by a menthol coolness of mint, strangely although this is a green scent the mint doesn't smell very authentic...if that makes sense? What I mean is it's not like smelling mint leaves more like a clean, cold, minty sensation. Mint is very evident thoughout and I'm surprised it's not listed in the notes here. Then Verdant takes a turn for the earthy and soil like which is not that typical patchouli dirt but somrhting which to my nose is entirely more palatable. The drydown is still lush and green but with sweetness, a hint of leather and tobacco but only a hint this fragrance is not deep but has a lovely mixture of green metallic and earthy notes. Pentachord Verdant is very interesting stuff...I like it! The projection is actually good it's a sneaky one just when it seems very quiet you'll get a wave of it coming at you. Doesn't last on my skin though but worth a sniff for the initial reaction, couldn't justify buying it but I enjoyed sampling.

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Xerjoff Richwood

This is my last Xerjoff sample (probably ever!) and I was really hoping for the masculine tones of the last one I tried 'Kobe' (I think?) Anyway, the opening is absolutely spectacular in that I was completely tricked into thinking I knew what to expect from this fragrance. WRONG!!! That opening is a quality wonderfully spicy sandalwood, labdanum & musk absolutely intoxicating. Okay it's not very original but very masculine and the quality of ingredients is translated clearly for me. However that lasts all of a few minutes before Richwood becomes unbearably floral and has a creamy edge from sandalwood and vanilla which is being soured by other notes to come off as hand cream. There's still some vague fruitiness and Remanence of that opening which just about makes it bearable and interesting to sniff. It's a remarkably well blended fragrance again from Xerjoff but not something I enjoyed all that much except the first 3 minutes or so. (update: it does improve again into the drydown and becomes woodier again with lovely sandalwood then right at the death... earthy patchouli which smells really, really nice when this subdued and in the vein of something like LIDGE or Tom Ford Noir.) The argument about price will rage on. I've said it time and time again, I believe if you have to take price into consideration... you can't afford it! This is what luxury brands rely on, people who have the money regardless of how much quality the ingredients have. The price reflects the exclusivity and name of the brand and that's what you're paying for! I don't have a huge disposable income but I do love fragrance and purely on my personal taste I could be tempted by a fragrance at this price point but it would have to be very, very, special indeed! More and more I realize that many exclusive brands like Xerjoff just aren't worthy of the expenditure.

Okay...so I first reviewed this several years ago (below) and have recently got another sample as I’d forgotten what Richwood was all about. It’s an interesting excercise, to revisit some perfumes, especially because my tastes are a constantly shifting landscape. However, my thoughts remain unchanged and reading my review was interesting because I thought EXACTLY the same thing. This fragrance is high quality, complex, interesting and pretty wonderful perfumery, and there’s definitely something about it but the florals at the heart of Richwood make it boarderline unwearable for me. Very unusual to love something (because I do) and not like it at the same time, a peculiar paradox.

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Xerjoff Dhofar

Wow! Dhofar is masculine no doubt about it this is the old spice/brut but for princes or fools depends how you look at it really? I'm not a huge fan of these classic, old skool masculine 70's/80's type fragrances but they have a time and a place and I do appreciate and wear some. I'm not one to gush or exaggerate (hopefully?)and although I'm comparing it to cheap & dated male fare, Dhofar is very classy and multi-faceted beyond belief! The journey from opening sniff do dry down is surely an interesting one. Opens strong with a slight petrol type vibe you find in a few Xerjoff frags it then becomes clear what this one is about. There's clean citrus fruits pop out and then a hint of lavender nods toward a fougere type fragrance. Then a heavy woody spice from sandalwood with a bold, clean and green pine note. The resinous nature of labnanum and an incense vibe with a calming herbal aspect too. Then very clean, powdery, soapiness of carnation as it dries down this is more complex than the first impressions would indicate. What I love about Dhofar is that it has none of the sour, mossy or musty elements which sometimes drag these fragrances down for me. The nose here has been very careful to create something which although not unique, gives the impression of it by re-imagining, like a great cover version of a classic song. The bottom line is, would I pay the extortionate price for this fragrance? and the answer is... Almost... but probably not. One thing is for sure Dhofar reminds me of my dad and it's sure to do that for people of a certain age. I think for all the positives I've stated about just how good Dhofar is and I'd even go as far to say it's probably the best masculine aromatic I've ever smelled. However the price tag is prohibitive it's only for those who can afford it and if you can.... great! If not stick to Fendi Uomo or Versace pour homme...or nameless other classics.

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Pierre Guillaume Paris Tonkamande

Pierre Guillaume Paris

Aldehydes with a milky, wheaty perfume seem to curdle unless properly handled. I have to agree with Roge here this comes across floral in the opening and not at all what I was expecting. The base is creamy but not really almond like in my opinion, there's sandalwood and a hint of tonka that's it for me. Not very balanced for me but not unpleasant and another thing Roge points out this fragrance is supposed to be aimed at women so my comments are pretty redundant. Put it this way I wouldn't wear it! Some positives are that Tonkamande dries down nicely and does reveal a yummy creaminess of vanilla but it's too little too late. It projects well for the first hour or so but the longevity was poor on my skin.

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By Kilian Imperial Tea

Okay so I was really looking forward to both sacred wood and imperial tea but I'm left feeling a bit underwhelmed. This fragrance is mainly jasmine and that's not a bad thing it's a lovely thing but I had expected the bitter, metallic, dryness of tea and although it's there it's not nearly enough to satisfy the name. This is a clean fragrance in which the tea note balances with the jasmine nicely but kind of removes the sweetness a little which to me is the whole point of jasmine. What you're left with is just a vaguely floral scent with hints of tea. The main problem with imperial tea is the longevity, not very good at all. Pleasant fragrance but I was expecting a really special tea and as such am a bit disappointed.

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Odin 11 Semma

An interesting outing from ODIN a house which has produced two good fragrances so far and with the addition of this effort...a third. I'm not instantly reminded of Spicebomb as many are I find it opens like a warm spicy tobacco which is much more pronounced than V&R Spicebomb. When Semma dries down further though the aspects of spicy pepper and cinnamon become more apparent and the balance of sweetness is tipped more in the direction of Spicebomb territory. However this scent is all about the tobacco note for me which is deep and cosy with a great balance of sweetness and a hint of resin. A classy scent then and not the best tobacco I've smelled but certainly not the worst. Longevity is pretty good sillage is okay too.

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Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée

Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée

Oh wow leather! I can't wait to try this as the Oud one is unusual and very nice.

(THIS REVIEW WAS PENNED A WHILE AGO WHEN THIS CAME OUT.) I've Been waiting to try this for ages! Took so long for stores to get it that I actually stopped looking and forgot about it to an extent. The reason I was anticipating this so much was due to my love of leather fragrances and my hope that this would be the holy grail...and is it? Well, sort of? It is and it isn't... Reason being the opening was stunning, really great, rich, opulent almost dark, slightly smoky leather. When I say 'leather' I do mean an accurate and stunning leather note. So far so good you might think and you'd be right it's worthy of praise but then starts to change into familiar territory. By this I'm talking TF Tuscan leather and Clive Christian C complete with raspberry note and all...again not a criticism, C is one of my absolute favourite fragrances and I've extensively tested Tuscan leather (which I controversially said is not as good) so I like to think I know what I'm talking about here. In fact I think this is less complex than C more toward Tuscan leather but still very complex and different to both in the most subtle way. It tightropes between smelling like an accurate leather, maybe even a hint of citrus, something slightly more soapy and cleaner then back to CC C/TF TL. Now I have Oud concentree and that has epic longevity and obnoxious silage on my skin, almost to the point of it being too much even for me to wear and I was expecting the same from this juice. Don't get me wrong here the performance of this juice is very good and way, way up there. Silage and trail are pretty massive for the first few hours but doesn't quite have the godlike longevity status of Clive Christian C....nor is it as heady and complex, magical or even 'harsh' for want of a better word.

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Odin 06 Amanu

Wow! gorgeous green ivy like opening which then reveals a sweetness of clean white florals it must be the jasmine and magnolia, although it doesn't smell like Jasmine...more magnolia perhaps? The overall accord is one of cedar but it a sweet refreshing cedar and musk. This is due to the mastic/lentisque resin which gives a turbo charged cedar smell that is sweeter than cedar alone. I don't get a great deal of much else from this scent but I really like Amanu it's a clean, bright green effort from Odin. I'd wear this in summer for sure. Projection & Longevity are average.

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A Lab on Fire Liquidnight

This opens with a bang strong, zing of lime and lavender, with a slightly smokey incense accord reminiscent of CdG Zagorsk (smells nothing like it BTW) but has that fresh pine/fir thing from the hinoki and a church sort of a vibe. Peppery wood and with something of the carming meditative zen about it. The dry down is laid back and woody. I'm an incense lover(whatever that means?) and this instantly delivers a hit so don't be perturbed by this luke warm appraisal because I'm going to wear it properly a couple more times and update my feelings. Initial thoughts are positive. Next wear.... This is my second wear and I'm in love with Liquidnight it somehow does evoke the night to me. It's not a quiet peaceful night in the countryside but a sexy night out in a bustling metropolis, complete with a slight smokiness of exhaust fumes. Don't let that description mislead, this is a smooth, aromatic beauty which for a split second evokes the leather and magic of Clive Christians C or TF Tuscan leather. It must be the hinoki wood which makes this fragrance such a winner. I recently got to smell hinoki in its pure form and it's gorgeous! Starts out a little resinous and heavy but with such a light touch all the same, then into the drydown comes a greener more woody quality and still odd hints of lime from the long forgotten top notes. Liquidnight is a magnificent fragrance, complex, elegant, masculine I love it and I'm really tempted to get a bottle because I'd wear it a lot! Latest....I bought a bottle and I absolutely adore it a great fragrance this one!!!

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Xerjoff Uden

Okay... Uden from Xerjoff is a calm creation which is sweet and subtle. The quality is evident and although it puts me in mind of vanilla/tonka designer fair like Le male or Armani code, I think it's a bit unfair to tar Uden with the same brush as it's undoubtedly better. The opening for example is a beautiful mix of citruses and the main note I get is one of coconut which is only very brief but really nice. Uden dries down to a lovely soft, sweet vanilla, musk and creamy sandalwood. Also I get the coffee note after about 2 hours I thought it wasn't there but it is very subtlety is... like Rocas Man. I've no doubt there's superb quality in this fragrance but has it blown me away? not really. This is the problem with Xerjoff the greats are too few but to be fair they're getting better as I try more & more.

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Ex Idolo Thirty Three

I've tested my fair share of Oud/Rose fragrances now and frankly I'm getting a tired of the staggering array of them out there. This goes on pretty deep and stays that way but the rose in the opening hour or so, is quite unpleasantly floral and rosy for my taste. However the drydown reveals quite an elegant scent of rose, iris, patchouli and Oud which definitely has more magic when it develops. Great quality and longevity, projection etc... A good outing generally but I can afford to be more particular with so much choice out there.

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Profumum Roma Victrix

The first thing that hits me about Victrix are the green notes of bay leaf and coriander then the spice of pepper. It's gets very peppery then balances out beautifully and for me Profumum have another hit on their hands here with Victrix. The drydown is clean and really enjoyable, slightly earthy vetiver, I love the mixture of wet and dry notes in this fragrance it's aromatic, woody, herbal great stuff. I'm thoroughly impressed. Longevity is good and sillage and projection pretty quiet but that's more than okay.

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Mark Birley Mark Birley

Ahhhh...Mark Birley For Men, it's amazing that this fragrance has been around for nearly 20 years and yet you never see it anywhere...I mean who sells it? For a British brand it's not exactly readily available in Britain. Just briefly on Birley himself I kinda like the idea of a multimillionaire creating his own fragrance and tasking two of the best in the business with the challenge of getting it right. Oh how they got it right! This fragrance is wonderfully fresh, masculine, refined and with a hint of mystery. The opening to me is a lovely blend of citruses, leaning more towards lemon but still with accents of bergamot & orange. Then after the initial few seconds the sweet, refreshing citrus is bittered by musk and it's then you realise Mark Birley is a little more complex than your run of the mill citrus. The primary players in this fragrance are vetiver, Cedar, carrot seed and incense which give a subtle spice but ultimately an overriding clean quality. I can't say I detect violet (listed here) or that this is particularly powdery. The smell is very addictive and nods at a more balsamic, incense type fragrance but with the light touch and cleaness of a vetiver/citrus combo. It's great and in my book is worthy of the praise it receives. To echo other comments regarding longevity and projection which are not good but acceptable at about £60 for 125ml which is around a higher end designer price such as Dior or Chanel. Just treat it like a cologne and spray more, also put some on your clothes to get the lasting effect. Really keen to try the other Birley fragrance now, which is leather based.

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Penhaligon's Tralala

Basically I can sum up Tralala in a few notes... Musk, vanilla, BOOZE, and saffron. I'll just mention the saffron it has an odd sharp quality and is pungent but I love it in fragrances. Although it's not a major player in this one, you can detect it and it adds to overall opulence. Quite a theatrical bright, rough, almost gourmand opening which is pretty spectacular in truth and the whisky element is present straight away. A whisky note is not something I like in many fragrances I'll be honest but here in Tralala it's somehow exceptable. As it calms the fragrance becomes quite smooth and vanilla like almost like a milky drink with alcohol in...a white russian prehaps? (But far dirtier of course!) In fact I had a bourbon whiskey float cocktail a few weeks back and this reminded me heavily of the curdling combo of strong booze and ice cream which is not such a pleasant thing! So as Tralala rages on my skin it starts to become cloying and there's only so much I can take of the musky vanilla which does get a bit much after a while. It's a little more complex than I'm giving it credit for and after you get past the cloying faze and it really dies down it goes nice again, even a bit soft and leathery. So all in all an interesting fragrance and great longevity one of the stronger Penhaligon's I've come across. Tralala is an acquired taste maybe but so is the creepy dolls head stopper on the bottle. I wasn't familiar with Meadham & Kirchhoff's fashion house before but I get the picture with the style and this scent certainly ties in with the look of there clothes, bold and slightly eccentric!

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Penhaligon's LP No.9 for Men

LP No.9 for Men

In my experience Penhaligon's deliver very well blended compositions and LP No.9 is no exception. Usually when looking at the notes (especially on here) I'm a little perturbed by the main note sometimes and clove isn't one of my favourites. However, Penhaligon's deliver yet again on quality and none of the notes in this are too prominent. It has a opening of bergamot with the warmth of amber and the spice of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. LP No.9 is also peppery, dark feeling and musky...typical complexity which comes off as effortless simplicity. It's quite intoxicating really and very masculine, I've got to admit I'm really taken by it. Longevity is not bad at all either and it projects pretty well.

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