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Loewe Solo Loewe Origami

Solo Loewe Origami

oh dear. This fragrance is a real chameleon, cool bottle, unusual name, herbal/woody opening but sadly dries down to the same old Solo accord. This is why I've put all the Solo's in 'reminds me of'...because it does. I'm not a hater when it somes to this line, I own Solo platinum and I'm an admirer of the brand, but redundant flankers annoy me slightly. Most of the time I couldn't care less about them, or let them bother me but when they promise a different experience and deliver much the same, it irks me slightly. I suppose the opening being a fresh, fir like pine and woods/clean cardamom/vetiver smell sets you up for something else to what you eventually get. It's so odd then that it transmutes from that after about 10 mins into an even more annoying version of the original Solo. Like I said I have platinum which does have a similar smell but is much more resinous and amber like which completely negates the cheap, orangey/lemon haze of the original...and with a minor tweak becomes palatable.

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Memoize London Era

This fragrance is all about balance. Era somehow conveys a misty, hazy, frosted glass, translucent vibe to me. Both creamy and warmly exotic, sweet but also sour and with a slightly funky edge. The opening is quite discrete but the overwhelming smell in here is oud. The combination in the opening is mainly a iris/leather/saffron but it's not that extremely earthy, sharp saffron, just to stress again it appears in a very complementary dose. As this kinda satin, gourmand leather settles and the iris dies quickly, I get the oud and it's almost that cheesy (I quite literally mean cheese) smell of 70's flat-pack furniture, seriously! Slightly barnyard but not all the way and perfectly fitting for this perfume giving it some animalic edge. The drydown is a very familiar accord to me but I can't place what perfumes it reminds me of. I get a sugared, sweetness of a powdery amber, almost ambergris meets synthetic (maybe even ambroxan) then with the oud coming on strong in a kind of heady, Arabic sort of way. This is a very luxurious composition, which at first you might think could be a shrinking violet, not lasting or projecting but you'd be very wrong, this thing is a real silent killer, just speaking even more to the quality of the ingredients. I've sampled the whole line but this is my first experience actually wearing one and I've got to say they are very Impressive brand, and era is a great example. I've got a sneaking suspicion that Era will be a polarising/marmite type affair. I love so Marmite so it's all good.

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Memoize London Avaritia

Opens up with a fir resin and musky sharpness, this doesn't mess around in letting you know it's a indie bomb of a fragrance but crucially not a patchouli one...at least not for the first few minutes. Then the patchouli comes on stronger and stronger as it settles to a very earthy, soil tincture that would satisfy any patchouli lover. For me though I like patch when offset or tempered by other elements, this however uses darkly resinous tones and other stuff which makes it slightly too rich and peaty for my blood. Don't get me wrong it's really good and in fact turns on it's head again in the 3rd act because the drydown gets really cozy and resinous again almost to the point of an oriental amber. Great quality and thanks to Memoize for the sample, I enjoyed it.

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Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Now

The notes sound great! I’m hugely nostalgic about the original Tommy so news of this release is welcome in this camp.

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Robert Piguet L'Entier

When this opened I thought to myself...oh no! It's a hugely generic, messy modern blob of designer crap! My attitude has mellowed slightly because it is indeed a quality perfume but still not entirely to my tastes. Comparisons to oud minerale and Armani BT are fair enough, you get that salty sea vibe which I equate to an ambergris smell, kinda warm but with salty undertones. The clary sage is very obvious and the usual juxtapostion you get in Piguet fragrances of dumping a load of tonka, orris and vanilla in for good measure adds to the designerish versace eros maybe even a little Invictus type vibe this has. Basically many cooks conspiring to spoil the broth...but that's the fashion. The drydown is a lot more of that hand cream, fresh but off putting smell that you get in these sea breeze fragrances, but clearly some people love this vibe. I've got to say that this stuff is strong and long lasting I had one of those feeble cardboard sample things which dispensed a meagre 0.3 of a ml of fragrance and it's enough for me. I don't want to blast it too much because it does have complexity, and depth and somethings which I like about it...but it's not a keeper.

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Frederic Malle Dries Van Noten Par Frederic Malle

Dries Van Noten Par Frederic Malle

I didn't know what to expect from this fragrance, I'd seen it and it stood out due to the fact it's not in the usual FM label format. I've always been limited to trying FM fragrances as I have to order samples because no stores near me stock them. Thankfully that has changed now so I got to finally try this and I have to say it's very nice. The style is similar to both Musc Ravegeur and the custard like vanilla of Guerlain's L'Art a Matiere line. However this has a sensual and slightly brutal floral kick in the form of strong musk (at least in the beginning) and saffron. When this earthy, slightly rough, musky nature is curdled into a soft creamy, gourmand, milk with touches of nutmeg and tonka on a sandalwood base, it becomes something very special indeed. In the same way I feel about Musc Ravageur, as much as I enjoyed it, Dries van Noten is one of those 'when do I wear it?' type of fragrances. I own Musc Rav but it doesn't get worn very much, I suspect this is slightly more versatile and I am genuinely considering adding it to my wardrobe because I really liked it.

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Clive Christian Chasing the Dragon Euphoric

Chasing the Dragon Euphoric

Clive Christian

So 'Chasing the dragon' (or 'smoking heroin' as it's less colloquially known) has a feminine side and it's just as intoxicating as the name would suggest. The opening is very nice indeed and you get more of the subtle warmth and nuance before it becomes a combination of white and yellow flowers. Ylang ylang can be a really lovely thing and there's a jasmine note in here but it's not typical. I'll be honest I don't know what Muguet or Narcissus are, but I get a nearly tuberose smell from this, it's basically a very heady floral scent. There's a smooth vanilla type feel super creamy and nice. I'm not one to complain about price but I believe these are right up there in price, but I think value will very much be in the eye of the beholder. I liked it, and I like the way Euphoric tied in with Hypnotic which I felt had similar floral notes in as well. I think the quality is good but it wasn't the super strong and lasting scent I thought it would be from the opening. Don't get me wrong performance is very good, just not atomic like some white/yellow florals of this calibre.

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Parle Moi de Parfum Chypre Mojo 45

Parle Moi de Parfum

So this was the last one I tried from Michel Almairac's brand and probably had the most lasting impression. He's somebody I recently wrote about as not really a one hit wonder but someone who hasn't been as prolific as some perfumers. Maybe this is just because he's done lots of stuff that I wouldn't neccesarily gravitate towards. (most scents marketed for women) If you look at his back catalog he's been consistantly working but considering the fact he created one of the most seminal fragrances of the last 30 years, maybe I wrongly expected to have had more hits from him? However, Parle Moi de Parfum is a really eclectic showcase of his talent. This being a prime example. Now I'm a sucker for a tropical, fruity notes in perfume but it's rare that they don't end up smelling like cheap shampoo, Chypre Mojo just about manages it though. The mango note is MASSIVE and grows from the initial spritz of bergamot and lighter weight citrus into a full grown, fleshy tropicana juice of a fragrance. I was really excited when the SA told me that it was mango and carnation but although clearly floral I didn't get a typical carnation experience from Chypre mojo. Carnation is pretty complex though and The overriding quality smell in here is almost one of resins, maybe labdanum? something in there driving it anyway. I absolutely loved it though, maybe more feminine leaning and totally bonkers really but if you enjoy a cocktail or a fruity smelling fun fragrance but with serious quality this could be for you?

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Parle Moi de Parfum Papyrus Oud 71

Parle Moi de Parfum

A darkly spiced, dry vetiver, the oud is a cleaner base for the potent earthy, herbal scent to sit upon. This is another surprising Papyrus (a note I thought I didn't like incidentally) along with Clive Christian E I've tried recently. This has much more of a traditional origin in things like GPH1 and CdG 2 Man and more pariferally Wonderoud and Encre Noire. To be fair to this it actually transitions further than any of the ones mentioned above, changing from an obvious masculine oud opening to spicy smoked woods and then earthy drydown. There's clearly incense and maybe hints of patchouli with papyrus and vetiver looming large. This stuff is great. I really enjoyed it.

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Parle Moi de Parfum Cedar Woodpecker 10

Cedar Woodpecker 10

Parle Moi de Parfum

A massively sharp citrus and cedar fragrance in the opening, really unrelenting and woody as hell. The cedar starts to turn a trifle pissy for me but it's no where to the extent of some other intense cedars I've tried. Woodpecker seems to just about keep it in check before drying down further to a lovely but slightly lacking, warm woody drydown. On skin it was a nice transition but at no point was I wowed, the card I sprayed and put in my car actually still smells superb. I couldn't really get the iris but the card one, doesn't smell entirely of cedar so I've no reason to doubt it's there. I could see why some might rave about this, I'm less enthusiastic but I liked it somewhat.

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Parle Moi de Parfum Guimauve de Nöel 31

Guimauve de Nöel 31

Parle Moi de Parfum

Now could it just be the fact I saw name before I sampled it but I reckon this perfume does a very good job of evoking Christmas vibes. Although it's through a means I wouldn't necessarily associate with the festive season, ie: Orange blossom. The custard like feel of vanilla and orange blossom's smoothness do work extremely well together and give an almost eggnog vibe. There's a hint of fruitiness at the back of Guimauve de Noel and a caramel/toffee gourmand nature throughout, and then deep into the base. I'll be honest I never thought I would be but I'm actually quite taken with this. Simple composition but executed with clarity, I'm guessing gourmand fans would like it and white floral lovers wouldn't kick it out of bed either. If Francis Kurkdjian did a gourmand, I think it would probably come out like this.

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Clive Christian Chasing the Dragon Hypnotic

Chasing the Dragon Hypnotic

Clive Christian

Hmmmm...there’s no way these are the only notes. I got the promotional material with them and I don’t recall it listing notes but I should double check really. I think both the male and female versions of this release have incredibly opulent openings, complex floral and sensual in the extreme. I get why people are slightly against them, due to price and performance etc...but I think this is a brand where if price is an issue you really ought not to be considering them. The opening to me is a kind of intense, boozy, gourmand, definite warm spices in there and the cherry element does come through backed with a heart of florals. I’d say jasmine or tuberose or something, definitely more feminine leaning to my nose. The drydown is a soft vanillary, smell with more of that cherry edged vibe, but it’s definitely not what I was expecting. Hypnotic is broadly speaking more woody and masculine In the base than Euphoric. I’d say both the perfumes in this release fulfill the promise of an intoxicating, narcotic experience if only limited to the opening 30 mins or so because although I only applied a tiny amount and am still yet to wear properly, Hypnotic was fairly short lived. On the whole I really liked the mixture of gourmand and floral spices it was certainly like nothing I’ve tried before and that to me at least counts for something.

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DS&Durga Debaser

I absolutely loved it. Every note shines. I need to eat some humble pie about this brand, not that I’ve ever slagged them off and I’ve only really tried Burning Barbershop which I thought was a good concept but I wasn’t that fond of it. The name is probably a reference to the pixies song, considering the kind of hipsterish origins of the brand, I think it’s likely. I love the way it opens, uncompromisingly green, slightly tinged with fruit and citrus but evolving into a positive fig smell. The note starts to become more creamy, a milky fig with a hint of coconut. The soft woods and iris in the base finish it off perfectly travelling from a sharp, leafy, green fragrance, to a natural fig that’s a little mouth watering and philisykos like, into milky summery coconut woods and then a kind of grown up quality base which smells great after several hours. I thought debaser was smooth and a superb concept, vividly realised. I don’t have many fragrances like this so I reckon this is going on my list.

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Prada Mirages Midnight Train

Mirages Midnight Train

To me this is a very nice combination of three elements for me, sharp citrus in the opening a touch green, then the patchouli comes on stronger and although prominent might be one that non patch lovers might like. The base to me is amber and cacao although that chocolatey effect might be coming from the patchouli. I thought it was pretty damn nice and the quality shone through.

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Prada Mirages Moonlight Shadow

Mirages Moonlight Shadow

Wow! As a big Prada and Andrier fan I was so glad to try this line and discover that not only are they a departure from the usual, clean stylised sophistication iv come to expect from both, these are supremely interesting, different (for Prada) and really well crafted. The opening of Moonlight shadow...carried me away..(eeeekkk!) no it really did, it’s out of control, sweet, figgy chocolates with a robust smoky spice undoubtedly coming across like oud or something to me. Really bravo on that opening. However, the drydown doesn’t quite live up to it. Don’t get me wrong it’s pretty amazing, just loses some of the complexity of the opening but I’m being harsh because what perfume doesn’t? The scent a big dry, dark cedar woods leather and that cumin really lasting. Great stuff.

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Creed Silver Mountain Water

Silver Mountain Water

This is probably my favourite creed that I've worn. The performance is not great, let's get that straight out of the way. I usually find scents last well on my skin and I'm more into close, skin scents than beast mode, WMDs anyway, but it's weak after 2 hours even for me. Now we've dealt with that, the scent itself is glorious. The opening is absolutely fantastic, the lime and watery mettalic smell, which I would guess is the blackcurrant mixing with something else, is beautiful and fragile. Very glass-like. As it settles it moves more into a soft, slightly mettalic, icy, floral scent, it isn't going to challenge in my opinion but it just smells good. I feel like some might find it boring in the dry down, but I see it more like doing a fundemental with an absolute class and precision. Beautiful. 100% unisex imo. Love it in the spring and summer but I enjoy it on a fresh winters day too. Occasion, I think it's more of a daytime scent but dressed up or down works. Maybe a little dapper and clean for a grungy look, but it works well with more smart-casual or smart dress.

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Pierre Guillaume Paris Hyperessence Matale 12

Hyperessence Matale 12

Pierre Guillaume Paris

A tea fragrance that I've worn a couple of times now but for some reason haven't reviewed? The bright slightly peppery, bergamot opening is soon joined by the tea note. Tea is strange, I love it but it's a mysterious smell, kinda cerebral and like all the best things, multi-faceted both bad and good. The pendulum seems to swing perpetually between, stale and awkward, to sharp, smokey and sublime. 12 wouldn't be out of place as a Duchaufour or L'artisan creation. The vetiver and tea works very well together but not exactly bringing anything new, which is fine. Not every fragrance can be a breakthrough and It has undoubted quality but the longevity wasn't great and I feel this is just one for the tea lovers, because if you don't like tea this ain't gonna work for you.

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Rituals Eau d'Orient

An absolute KO!!! Rituals have made the ultimate meditation on an oriental woody fragrance here. The smell is as complex as it is simple...if that makes any sense at all? The biggest note in here for sure is a sweet creamy bed of sandalwood and resin, accented perfected with incense and pepper in the opening. The picture that denotes 'Oriental notes' on here pretty much sums up Elixir d'Orient in one image. A kind of shimmering pool of golden, warm beauty. It starts to evoke hints of orris and leather such is the powdery smoothness and sweet hint of pencil shavings on a bed of amber and vanilla. I know there's plenty of reference points in feminine perfumery for this stuff and I'm sure I wanted to say Dior hypnotic poison but my knowledge of ladies designer stuff is pretty dire. References I'm more comfortable with are things like Donna Karen Fuel for Men and Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin both of which have this sort of vibe. Elixir d'Orient is very gentle natured in the same way, staying close to skin with occasional wafts reminding you just how nice it is. This is soft, sure, this feminine...absolutely and nothing you haven't smelled elsewhere before, but consider for a moment the price, the quality and the CRAZY longevity (I've showered, washed my hands god knows how many times and can still smell it about 20 hours later, albeit incredibly softly) I got from this scent and it's all shaping to be an absolute winning formula. Bravo to Rituals. Update: The longevity on this perfume is simply the most persistent I've experienced of any perfume I can remember anyway. It was nuts! I sprayed 6 sprays on the back of my hand, now hands are usually not a good place as they get washed and used to do stuff more than other parts of the body so I was amazed that this lasted about 3 showers and multiple hand washes per day. I swear I could still smell the faint, warm vanilla from application Thursday afternoon to Sunday! Completely insane! It's a very subtle and slight fragrance even when first applied but lasted really well.

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Rituals Bleu Byzantin

My first introduction to Rituals was an advent calendar I got for the missus and ended up going 'wow that smells nice.' to many of the products. The one I liked best was the Rosewood and pine but unfortunately they don't do a perfume of that, but when I visited my local store to discover as much, I sampled some of their perfume offerings and I've gotta say I was impressed. The therapy vibe is extremely apparent in everything, and I have to say they all make you sigh a little sigh of comfort such is the cerebral nature of the creations. This one, Bleu Byzantin is probably the most accessible and has a more fresh approach. The juniper note at the beginning of this is really big and unlike the usual dry, g&t, quinine vibe it comes across as watermelon and salty aquaticness circa 1992. This could be a distraction but the herbal pine in the base is very zen, soothing and with a touch of mint it all comes together to make something vaguely familiar but extremely well executed. This wasn't my favourite from the line by any stretch but the solid, salty sea and woods drydown was pleasant even if the fragrance itself is perhaps a little shortlived. The price is great and packaging and overall look of the stores made me think their products were far more expensive than they are.

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Parfums de Marly Layton

Parfums de Marly

Oh, Layton... You're very expensive for a fragrance that's so similar to a lot of other, cheaper fragrances. I'm not going to rag on this too harshly though and I think it's actually a gorgeous scent, so stick with me. The opening I find to be very loud and very jumbled and it reminds me instantly of the spicy, sickly sweet designers that are a bit of a trend as club bangers. It calms down quickly though, within one or two minutes it elevates itself and shows its class a bit more. It still sits in that very sweet category for me, but it's lighter, fresher and for that, infinitely more wearable as I just can't do heavy, sweet fragrances at all. The vanilla, cardamom, apple and sandalwood stick out to me instantly, but I don't get too much pepper until later in the dry-down where its soft and sits nestled right in the heart of the scent. I feel like the orange note is one of the keys to making this a lighter wear than most sickly designers, it sits really hidden away but small wafts seep up out of the undercurrent in the sillage for me and it really shows what a classy, well-blended fragrance this is. Outside of work, I think this fragrance would work anywhere, dressed up or down, though if I was dressing up, I personally might reach for something that sits a bit closer. I absolutely would not wear it in the summer, but for fall, winter and maybe the cooler days of spring it would be a bit of a crowd pleaser I'm quite sure. Layton is definitely one of the more easily likeable niches in my collection and a great fragrance that has made me want to try Herod from the same house next. EDIT: alright, I've been wearing this almost every day for a week straight. Very quickly turning into one of my all time favourites. Gorgeous scent with one of the best, sweet dry downs of all time.

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Maison Martin Margiela By the Fireplace

By the Fireplace

Maison Martin Margiela

Really nice fragrance. I picked this up because I was interested in a chestnut scent but I actually found the cloves to be the real gem note. The opening is really one of my favourite openings ever. The smoke is soft, round and not as dry as some smoke. No spikey ashtray vibes at all. As it settles down, the sweetness in the vanilla rounds it out, it's not an overly sweet, cloying vanilla, just soft and comforting. It's not on the level of Guerlain, whose vanilla notes I think are fantastic, but it's not hyper-synthetic either, it just about sits right. I have one problem with this fragrance and I'm surprised it's not been mentioned in the reviews yet, but in the middle, as the sweet vanilla rounds it out and the smoke dies out a little, I get a very strong, cheap, sandalwood incense stick vibe which reminds me of bong shops from the 90s and it really puts me off. The one saving grace is the clove note which hangs out of this soft round bubble and snags you, drawing you in. It also separates it entirely from the cheap incense vibe. Overall I can look past this stage, as it reaches it late dry-down it drops this and returns to a soft, comfortable blanket. I can see this working really well on cosy nights with a partner, or even really well on a date night, when you don't want to come across as a sex-driven alpha, rather, someone more sensitive and pleasant to be around. Overall, great fragrance. Absolutely love it. Probably one of my favourites for fall/winter casual wear.

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Lacoste Fragrances Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Eau Fraîche

Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 Eau Fraîche

Lacoste Fragrances

Limoncello has a very distinct taste and smell, not just lemons but yest, lemon oil, those compressed lemon pastes they have in north African cuisine and obviously booze and a frosted effect from being chilled in the freezer. Lacoste L.12.12 Eau fraiche really doesn't possess these qualities to my nose at least. Yes there's a delicate citrus in the top notes coming across cold and refreshing, not disimilar to that D&G Light blue Zest edition that came out in the summer. However Eau fraiche is a bit weirder than that and has far more in common with unusual modern, woody perfumes like escentric molecules, than it does with citrus and edc type fragrances. Don't get it twisted, I don't mean it's an ISO E Super fragrance or anything but it does have a stale, cedarish bed and a very slight nature to it, which sits incredibly close to the skin. I found it interesting and not really the fragrance I had expected to find from the notes. It's no Eau de Lacoste Blanc but it definitely warrants further investigation and is more than I'd bargained for. I've gotta say the bottle looks nice with that fade effect too.

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Lalique Encre Noire

This fragrance is insane, for anyone worried about "reformulation" and it being weak.. Well, I dread to think what the original was like. I bought a new bottle today and one spray is enough to fill a room easily. As for the fragrance, it's absolute class. I get the feeling of the earthiness from Terre d'Hermes without any of the brighter edges. This smells like the frag dug down into TdH, ripped out its heart and carried it back off to the forest in a dirty rag. I get a touch of spice which I'm guessing is the Cashmir, other than that, it's all earthy, woods and vetiver. Completely unapologetic in its raw-ness. I think for that you'll either love it or hate it. As a fan of vetiver, I'm firmly in the love crowd. It's deep, rich and well-rounded. Absolutely masculine, but it does have a softness to it, there are no hard edges in sight. If you think you might like the smell of a forest fire, you'll love it. It won't be for everyone, but it's unique and a deep, interesting, enrapturing frag. For the price you can grab this at online, it would be rude to not own this imo.

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Ferrari Leather Essence

Leather Essence

I have to give it a like because I don't dislike the smell and I'm not going to be one of those guys who says 'No leather AT ALL here.' in my review because I suppose this sweetened, oriental mass does pose as what constitutes leather notes in many fragrances, however I would sympathise with that guy. The truth about this line is that they are good and better than expected from one aspect due to Ferrari's earlier efforts. On the other hand due to all the hype they've received, they actually fell sort for me. Bergamot and bright Neroli are fairly nice and decent value for money, as I'm sure Noble fig will be. However, I'm not convinced about this leather one. It's too sweet and icky, just an baggy composition of crowd pleasing spice laden oriental stuff. It's like spicebomb without any of the bomb, or the spice really! Cinnamon and clove yes, on a woody/gourmand/sweet leather/vanilla base. I'm oldskool, I like my leather to be leathery and masculine. I can enjoy Tuscan leather although that's really quite sweet, because it has real smoky leather facets and luxurious ingredients, this just seems lacking and certainly not in the league of the king. In some respects I'm glad it's not another TF clone. Sorry, I really hoped this would be a good budget leather, it does smell good but good as a throwaway oriental fragrance, the leather in the name and on the bottle threw me, oh and the performance isn't too good either, maybe another wear is in order?? I wasn't overly impressed anyway.

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