I think Tom Ford's leather accord relies heavily on cypriol, because I get a strong whack of it here, as I do from all of the other TF leathers I've smelled. Not that it's bad, but it isn't what I expected. I prefer Rose de Chine [EDIT: Nope, I prefer this!], however this is more wearable for me out and about, at work etc. as a 43 year old man. Anyway, I was lucky enough to get a grey market bottle for 150 euros so I'll be eeking it out carefully over the years. Update: Giving it a proper wear today, and it smells 100 times better on skin than on card or clothes. Imagine the aftermath of a Shakespearean tragicomic massacre, with one guy left alive with a precious rose he salvaged clenched between his teeth to take home to his loved one. That's what this is. I've realised I love this so so much, and for the first time I feel like it's "me" through and through, perhaps a signature scent finally. Not only have I had several compliments from clients over the last two days, one of them said "it's perfect for you". It's bold, but not aggressive, and the jammy, dripping rose on the leather base is to die for. This is waaaaay better than Ombré Leather whilst sharing a little of the leather DNA. Re. comparisons to Rose et Cuir... It's like comparing two different fruit tarts. It's the same principle but one has apple and the other apricot. Here we have rose, the inaccurately named Rose et Cuir has geranium, and minty geranium to boot, so the resemblance is there, but it's more of a genre resemblance, and one certainly cannot substitute for the other. I prefer Rose de Russie, it's jammier and way easier to wear, while Rose et Cuir is perhaps more technically impressive. Another update: I reckon there's a hefty dose of cypriol here. Shem by Nishane does the same trick, using cypriol with rose to make a rosey leather, but Nishane overdid it, this is much better, although not actually any cheaper.
I have a boxed, sealed 50ml bottle, Paris, France, if anyone is interested in buying.
I blind bought this, and while I was waiting to collect it I read through the endless repetitive "it's synthetic", "it's not synthetic", "oh the price the price!" blah blahdee blah zzzzzz reviews, and felt buyer's regret creeping in. Now I have the bottle and I've sat with the scent for a while. People can gripe and moan and whinge about price, but taking the scent at face value, it's an exquisite example of fine perfumery. For me, it's close to perfect. Since the beginning of my scent journey, I've come to learn that, despite not wanting to believe it, vanilla and honey are among my favourite notes (when done well, I'm not talking about the likes of Gaultier or most designer houses). Fig is another one I didn't like, but now love sincerely. Here, my favourite notes are perfectly balanced atop a bed of warm oudy, cedar (which mercifully doesn't scream AMBROCENIDE like most). All listed notes are discernable if you look for them, but nothing dominates. It's balanced and refined, delicate yet rich, a real work of art, divine.
My first thoughts (with it on my skin fresh from the shower) were "hmmm, more like Aqua Petroleum Burning Tyres Yuzu". It doesn't smell like oud, but there's something definitely something going on underneath the citrus. But I don't hate it! I may even be compulsively sniffing my arm right now.....
Nice but smells very designer ish. Gives me black opium/si/olympea vibes. Point is... TOOOOOOO FEMININE
If you find Ormonde Jayne Montabaco to be too strong and too cheap then buy this
41 Burlington Arcade is a very safe and masculine scent which has some unique notes, but overall settles into something not so exciting. It opens with some gentle medley of citrus - grapefruit and lemon namely, alongside an absolute boatload of white pepper. The first time I smelled this it made me sneeze from the strength of the pepper in the opening. From here, thankfully the pepper settles down, and reveals a heart of warm, dry spices. Liquorice and nutmeg are cosy and sharp, while cardamom and pimento are smooth and fiery. This is backed up by a gentle hint of incense and a classical masculine base of Vetiver and cedar. There’s no denying this smells good, but it for me it lacks a certain excitement and journey. The combination of cardamom, nutmeg and pimento resting on Vetiver and cedar remind me of Clive Christian No. 1 - the quality is not quite the same but for the price difference this is a good alternative.
Nuit de Feu is one of my absolute favourite incense fragrances and I want a bottle so badly. Structurally, this is one of the more simplistic scents from Louis Vuitton, but that doesn’t make it boring in the slightest. This is an overdose of brooding, smoky incense backed up by an incredibly smooth and rustic leather. Alongside this is a thick, resinous dose of oud and a hint of animalic musk to create something primal and alluring. The quality of ingredients is fantastic as usual, and the blending and master craft of perfumery here is brilliant. Definitely one of the more underrated releases from the brand, won’t match up to everyone’s tastes but for me this is an exquisite perfume with exceptional lasting power.
Fougere Royale is the original fougere, it defined an entirely new fragrance family which countless scents have drawn inspiration from and I have to respect it for that. It opens straight away with a heady burst of lavender, the most iconic note of the fougere. This is accompanied by refreshing bergamot, and a touch of green chamomile. The heart is softened around the edges, imbued by a collection of clean florals - namely geranium and carnation which add a gentle green spiciness. From here, the scent settles very well into a soft, creamy oakmoss base alongside sage and patchouli. This fragrance is undeniably masculine and classic, it’s one of the all time greats and will always be remembered for its cultural importance. However, the longevity on the EDP is shockingly bad and for me personally, Scandal and Invasion Barbare are my preferred fougeres.
The closest you'll get to the vintage OG.
Definitely smells nothing like Haltane. Amazing sent completely like the pyramid. Hours of longevity.
🌹 FREDERIC MALLE: Une Rose (Rose Tonnerre) Edouard Flechier 2003 🌹 SERGE LUTENS: La Fille de Berlin Christopher Sheldrake 2013 It has been rainy days In Finland lately and these two beautiful rose perfumes - especially Une Rose - performs best in rainy days and high humidity. LFdB works well in shiny weather as well. These two are often compared to each others and that’s why I wanted to make a post of them together. There are only few similarities in these two scents: both are very realistic roses, both are very bright but I don’t see them as green. The smell of them start to separate straight away after the opening. 🌹 La Fille be Berlin is a very safe choice, and if you are used to Serge Lutens’ perfumes you may even think that it’s boring. It’s not unique but it’s beautiful for sure. The petals are fragile and thin and the smell of a rose is clean. There are no other notes which I can detect, just luminous rose with a metallic undertone. I would say it’s linear and one of the easiest scents to wear and for people around you. 🌹 The petals in Une Rose are thick and a little bit shiny - like there is some waxy surface on those. The smell is much deeper and stronger. If I compare it to LFDB it reminds me of a lipstick - not in a vintage way but it feels that there is something over the instant smell of a rose. On the other hand Une Rose is like some amazing rose water but powerfull one. In sunny day I don’t understand it so well but it bursts into flower and begins to shine in the rain, there is something amazingly melancholic in it and it’s beautiful. It lingers in the air while you move and it feels that every raindrop absorbs the scent from around you. This is not so complex either but very interesting one and the longevity is very good. Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
Some words which came i to my mind: Surprising Interesting Balsamic Fruity Ambery Evocative Distinct Warmth Unusual charm PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA OF SCENTS* Impossible to imagine without experiencing it! 🥝 The chaos of notes in Interlude made me so curious about it and the scent was even more than all my expectations. That chaos works perfectly. I didn’t have a patience to wait and find an older batch but I will definitely buy that one too once I will get a chance. 🥝 I LOVE this complex mix, where everything performs in a very different way that we are used to. It’s easy to detect accords but the result is somewhat abstract. Balsams and resins doesn’t feel spiritual and calming, fruity doesn’t mean playful and joyous, base with Oakmoss, Leather, Musk and Oud is not heavy and edgy. This is unique sweet and exotic addictive blend with solid rich base which I find very difficult to describe in the right way and what it deserves. I need to get the original formula in my hands even if this is already so captivating. I think that the base has a bigger role in original formula - I mean those notes are more potent. ➡️ NOTES from Amouage’s website TOP: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Ginger, Tagete HEART: Frankincense, Rose Absolute, Orange Blosson, Helichrysum (called Immortelle as well, brings note of honey), Jasmine, Opoponax 🥝 I don’t know if Kiwi has been mentioned in the official notes back in times but it’s there and imo it has an important role here. EDIT: Walnut and Coffee has been in the original notes as well. BASE: Vanilla, Benzoin, Amber, Sandalwood, Agarwood, Oakmoss, Leather, Tonka Bean, Musk, Animalic notes (I don’t find any) Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
💐Very well blended flower bouquet Mostly roses with sweet, rich and warm exotic, tropical flowers (Champaca, Frangipani, Ylang-Ylang). The rose is just dominating so much that the experience of the other flowers which I was so interested in this blend don’t shine enough. I was expecting a little bit more uniqueness with Dusita dna but I don’t find it on my skin. On the other hand this is very amazing rose with the sweetness of tropical flowers. Some people describe this “retro” or “old fashioned” style but I don’t agree. The scent is potent in the opening but settles down into sophisticated beautiful floral. The base is creamy and soft with Vanilla and Sandalwood in it but surprisingly this doesn’t change sweeter in the drydown which is good. La Douceur de Siam may be too strong in the opening for some but otherwise this is the easiest perfume which Pissara has made for sure. I find myself reaching this mostly when I don’t have time or power at all to think the weather and match my mood, clothes and scent together. One of the most worn scents during summertime! EXACT NOTES ✨Top: Rose de Mai, Frangipani, Champaka, Carnation, Ylang Ylang, Violet leaf ✨Middle: Cinnamon, Thai Chalood Bark (a sensual woody, vanillic accord from old Siam ✨Base: Vanilla absolute, Sandalwood Mysore, Amber, Ambergris Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
Before a full depth reviews: 🤎 PARFUM de la NUIT 1 Very sensual and seductive, not the easiest one of these three. There are light leathery tones and an animalic touch in this -very sophisticated though- with soft Vanilla. This is definitely my favorite and it performs best on my skin of these three. Absolutely stunning and sexy, a tad naughty, resinous scent. 🤎 PARFUM de la NUIT 2 Three notes - Rum, Cocoa and Vanilla - together with balsamic notes creates a pleasant a little bit sweet, not exactly but Coca Cola kind of scent which is chic. This is the most versatile of these three because of the missing animalic nuance (in 1) and leather (in 3) and this is the most unisex one. You have to like boozy note tho. Anyway on my skin something bothers me. 🤎 PARFUM de la NUIT 3 Rose, Labdanum, Leather and earthy Saffron create the soul for this blend. This is not at all a rosy scent though, it’s only a supportive note. This is the driest one of these with woody, balsamic warmth of Amyris. Not at all sweet. This is the best on men imo. PDLN1 is my favorite even if now while wearing them all I want to have them all. In-depth reviews will follow. Thank you for reading and I would appreciate a lot if you will to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
✨Stupendous classic vintage scent with sparkling aldehydes in the opening. Complex notes creates slightly soapy soft clean smell which is very classy, luxurious, sophisticated, yet powerful and long lasting. ✨Dia Woman has been said to be a lighter day version of Gold Woman which was intended for evening scent. I understand totally the idea but since I have an old batch of Dia and a new batch of Gold I have to say that Dia’s longevity is amazing compared to Gold. Both are different anyway and worth to own both if you love a vintage style scents. Dia is more linear while Gold has clearly different stages. ✨Absolutely for everyone who loves vintage scents of Chanel and Guerlain ✨Amazing, I want to bath in this! I’m totally in love with this elegant and mesmerizing scent! 🤍🤍🤍 Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
Perfumes surprise me every day somehow. 😍🌹 Yesterday I was answering for someone’s question about Elixir is it spicy and is it oudy. I was thinking almost for one year that I don’t like this at all. For sure I knew that there is no spices neither oud in this scent (someone was asking about those in this scent) but I didn’t remember exactly how it smells and revisited this cute little bottle. Something has changed and now I loved this scent with roses, apples and Jasmine with a heavenly dry down with warm woody notes from Patchouli, velvety ambery notes and a little amount of sweetness from Vanilla. Longevity is great, I could still smell it on my wrist next morning. Very pleasant and sophisticated, seductive scent! I will update longer review. Thank you for reading and I would appreciate if you follow me IG @ninamariah_perfumes
Musc Shamal is an incredibly addicting and enjoyable take on clean, soapy musks which I really enjoy. It opens with a thick, soapy cloud of aldehydes with a touch of citrus to aid that fresh kick, before the musk presents itself. Most likely ambrette has been used here for that musky accord, it’s sweet and clean yet does have a subtle hint of bitterness to it which is lovely. Soft rose and Jasmine add to the cleanliness of the scent, while vanilla and cedar enhance the powdery, sweet facets. This is a strange one to me - my mind keeps switching between whether I love it or not, but I think I do. It’s a great addition to any aldehyde lover’s collection, and is a brilliant interpretation of ambrette. This is one of my go to’s when I want something clean, simple and sophisticated without getting bored.
Ambre Eccentrico is one of the most easy-going, mass appealing ambers on the market in my opinion. It’s built around a classic Amber accord of vanilla, benzoin and labdanum, but with especial focus on the vanilla which is intensely sweet, creamy and gourmand. Adding to this addictive sweetness is a subtle accord of dried fruits, with touches of spicy cinnamon and earthy patchouli. All in all though, this is a vanilla fragrance at heart and a damn good one. Tonka bean enhances the vanilla even further, while also maintaining that smooth and slightly rubbery characteristic a lot of Armani Privé fragrances have. I’ll admit I underestimated this one when I first got it, but after a few wears I’ve been really enjoying it. It’s not a particularly complex or interesting fragrance, but it’s incredibly addicting and delicious - a perfect option for an easy going sweet scent bubble on a cold autumn evening.
Oud Royal is one of my favourite offerings from the Armani Privé line. It follows a very simple structure and stays relatively linear throughout the life of the scent. A soft, sweet amber accord, smoky myrrh and some faint warm spices act as supports for the main note of oud. The oud here does not smell real in the slightest, or even particularly high quality, but for some reason it keeps drawing me in. Everything is so smooth and well blended that it creates the most addicting scent trail and will easily have others asking you what you’re wearing. This for me is a fantastic Westernised interpretation of a clean cut oud fragrance, with some degree of darkness and mystery to it. This is not for those searching for an authentic natural oud - instead more suited to smart, formal occasions that call for something easier on the nose.
Clive Christian E for Men takes the idea of a Gourmand Oriental to the extreme. Upon initial spray you’re blasted by an intense accord of oak barrels housing beautifully aged rum and red wine of the highest quality, with a noticeable alcoholic burn hitting the back of your throat. From here there’s a slight fruity, leathery touch from peach and labdanum, which paves the way for the dominant note of clove. Clove is the biggest hitter in this fragrance - it’s dark, earthy, powerful and intoxicating, supported ever so slightly by cinnamon. The base is where the gourmand qualities shine through however; bourbon vanilla, maple syrup and caramel make up the delicious edible facet of this scent. This takes gourmand perfumery to a whole new level and is perfect for those who love boozy scents. It smells like gorgeously sweet and syrupy mulled wine which makes it perfect for the Christmas period. Completely unapologetic and overpowering, this is definitely not one to blind buy but so so incredible for the right audience.
This is molecular perfume, like Escentric Molecules, as others here have said, and just as is the case with EM scents, Not a Perfume, etc., there is a high likelihood of anosmia for the wearer. I don't find Trash to be weak, if anything I find the Iso E Super almost too strong, and I suspect others around me may smell it even more. I like the perfume, and I really appreciate the concept and ethos. I for one am glad it doesn't smell like bin juice.
