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The current formulation (at least, the sample I got from Jovoy a couple of months ago) has an extremely loud and persistent kiwi note, and in general the perfume is VERY loud and agressive. I liked it though, and when I found a 100ml on Vinted for under 100 euros I didn't hesitate. The batch of my flacon is from 2020, and while being the same on the opening, it develops very differently. The synthetic fruit note is instead more natural smelling, and it quickly withdraws, allowing a rich mix of resins, amber and incense to take over. I get the walnut here, whereas in the more modern version I can't find it. This is probably full of synthetics, but the effect is much more old-school and natural seeming, not a million miles away from one of the old Serge Lutens ambers. While at first I thought, oh OK this is more wearable and tame than the sample I have, but I kind of like the craziness of the sample, the more I wear this old batch, the gladder I feel that I got this one. Don't get me wrong, it's still loud and it's still fruity, but it seems more classy and polished, and way less screechy and needy. The lack of top-note fanfare for hours allows me to perceive the ginger, benzoin, and leather, and overall there's a sort of cola accord that I didn't get at all from the sample. Another thing I get here which I struggled to perceive in the sample is the immortelle, which is perhaps why it put me in mind of some of Uncle Serge's œuvre. It's wondeful and maple syrupy!
Some words which came i to my mind: Surprising Interesting Balsamic Fruity Ambery Evocative Distinct Warmth Unusual charm PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA OF SCENTS* Impossible to imagine without experiencing it! 🥝 The chaos of notes in Interlude made me so curious about it and the scent was even more than all my expectations. That chaos works perfectly. I didn’t have a patience to wait and find an older batch but I will definitely buy that one too once I will get a chance. 🥝 I LOVE this complex mix, where everything performs in a very different way that we are used to. It’s easy to detect accords but the result is somewhat abstract. Balsams and resins doesn’t feel spiritual and calming, fruity doesn’t mean playful and joyous, base with Oakmoss, Leather, Musk and Oud is not heavy and edgy. This is unique sweet and exotic addictive blend with solid rich base which I find very difficult to describe in the right way and what it deserves. I need to get the original formula in my hands even if this is already so captivating. I think that the base has a bigger role in original formula - I mean those notes are more potent. ➡️ NOTES from Amouage’s website TOP: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Ginger, Tagete HEART: Frankincense, Rose Absolute, Orange Blosson, Helichrysum (called Immortelle as well, brings note of honey), Jasmine, Opoponax 🥝 I don’t know if Kiwi has been mentioned in the official notes back in times but it’s there and imo it has an important role here. EDIT: Walnut and Coffee has been in the original notes as well. BASE: Vanilla, Benzoin, Amber, Sandalwood, Agarwood, Oakmoss, Leather, Tonka Bean, Musk, Animalic notes (I don’t find any) Thank you for reading and if you want to follow me on IG: @ninamariah_perfumes
This is a heavy, intense and complex chypre. The opening features slightly spicy citrus notes with ginger, followed by a strong combination of incense, flowers and fruits, with a generous amount of honey. The base is deep and rich, woody and leathery, with amber and musk; slightly smoky and balsamic. There is a lot going on in this fragrance, but for me it is simply overwhelming. It fills the entire room, and after six hours I had to wash it off as it became too much for me.