Samesy same same Céline vanilla base with benzoin up top. Let's face it, most of their perfumes are this exact same thing, with one particular thing changed up top. Lavender (Rimbaud), galbanum (Nightclubbing), orris (black tie), laurel/coriander (Dans Paris) etc etc, always over the fluffy, vanilla cloud. It's a very nice trick, but it's one trick.
This is the other actually New, New one from Balmain. Bronze is immediately in a similar vein to Ebene and Sel d'ambre in that it's a spicy, woody, resinous driven perfume and I can only equate this to being a sort of thread the perfumer/perfumers who've jazzied up (who is that BTW?) this line have included to tie together some disparate vintage faves with new fangled releases. That's what impressed me about the core of this collection, not the individual fragrances themselves, or indeed the distinctive branding and definitely NOT the high price it's the collective cohesion I like. Anyway, Bronze to me has a dominant hay note which comes over as more than a little honied, heavy, woolen, waxy almost animalic, like some opaque honey you'd get direct from a beekeeper. Although we consider that sweet it's a great juxtapositon to the rest of the stuff here which again is a sort of peppery, cedarwood, spicy patchouli amalgam. I like this perfume to smell it, not especially to wear but I will update this review once I've worn it again, because I think it deserves more thought.
Wow is the opening of this perfume ever gorgeous? sheesh!!! Immediately the olibanum which persists and crudely, is the main theme of this perfume, but it's not all about that, I want to say a sweet but not saccharine accompaniment (could be the orris listed in the notes here?) but the quality and sparkle of the olibanum gives a really chic, classy feel. So the Olibanum is evident throughout and settles to more of that once the top notes fade, this can be a difficult balance, to not get that Avignon, Mark Birley...Etc... Frankincense sort of dominant thing, and I think this avoids it well. I can't quite figure out what's going on, it's not complicated and I think that's the charm here. The amber accord is warm but quite mineral like, modern, comparisons to Serge Lutens amber below I find a bit puzzling and the Sahara Noir comparisons might be valid, unfortunately I can't recall the smell, I remember loving that perfume though (foolishly not enough to buy it) so they might be on to something? Enjoyed this then, and it's in a lovely bottle, haven't mentioned that on my reviews of the 'new' Balmain collection so far but I think they are among the prettiest around. Still not worth retail but what is nowadays?
I like what Balmain(Estee Lauder) have done with this collection, a combination of revamped classics (Vent Vert, Ivoire), new stuff (Sel d'Ambre) and surprising Tweaks and switcheroo's (Ebene>Carbone) Let's hope they are in The EL discount store soon because the prices are a little too rich for my blood. This is not specifically a criticism of this collection but a reflection of the entire industry and this designer label BS of... can we get away with charging more? Well we charge £200-£300 for a pocket square or a beanie hat, why should the perfumes be any different? Gone are the days when perfume was the relatively, (I'm not rose tinting the whole thing) affordable, aspirational purchase, you know? You can't afford a Chanel bag or a Cartier watch but you can still have an entry level piece of the pie in the form of a luxurious perfume. Now it seems to be an arms race for who can charge the most and all it's doing is driving the clone markets, which have also increased in price. Anyway... Ebene has a lovely deep, sepia tinged opening of spicy woods and dark peppery incense, and that peculiar sweetness of myrrh. It settles fairly quickly but largely the description from the opening persists throughout into a modern, slightly tweaked, airy based version of something like a Gucci PHI or that Bentley (but this is a bit smoother and longer lasting) I feel a little vanillic rounding and aerated amber effect in the base. I don't think this is all the way Carbone de Balmain which was marketed towards Men in the 2010's maybe? But it's closer to that than I imagine the old Ebene (never smelled it, but judging by the comments of folks who have) and the new Carbone which is NOTHING like I remember. This is good outing, it's nothing special but what I like is the balance of these compositions not too intriguing, but not too flat or lacking in personality by the same token.
creamy soybeans, umami jasmine, and sweet amber cooked down into a delicious, dark syrup
Gris Charnel feels like a luxurious wool scarf in a cold wind. It is spicy, figgy but the most prominent note I get is the sandalwood base. Though it remains, spicy, it develops into quite the lactonic wear. I wouldn’t wear this in the early beginnings of fall, where the sun still shines, because if you’re sensitive to fragrance, you might become nauseous. It shines best in the cold, really crisp cold or for rainy days. It has a cocooning effect. I do think that it is unisex even if leaning a tzd feminine. I have to say though that I now much more prefer its extrait counterpart which I find more provoking and interesting
It does smell sort of rustic and a little bit barnyardish, but not challenging. And it's incredible. And yes sometimes you get a waft resembling a pissed-up mattress, but in a good way. The best thing Kurky ever did.
It's like a cross between 8 88 and Fate Woman, but lighter than both of those. I have a vintage bottle, not sure what the new one is like.
Nothing floral or powdery listed but for me it both of these things in addition to the listed notes, especially powdery. It's very nice, but smells a bit like ancient soap, not sure if I can wear it easily. I have a vintage, square bottle.
Love this one so much. That calone is no joke on this one. Smells fantastic
Excellent
Yes, Yes, Yes.
Nauseating chemical stench. As subtle as a sledgehammer. It's like a mint boiled sweet with pool chemicals and some sort of metallic blood type effect. Absolutely horrible. I haven't smelled a scent from this house that didn't piss me off immediately, but this one is particularly bad.
Absolutely godawful, sickening (in a bad way) immediate scrubber. Nooud is a fitting name. This is an insult to oud fragrances.
I tried this thinking it would smell like the original Carbone de Balmain and it’s NOTHING like it at all. Good news is that I’m a sucker for a musk fragrance and this is predominantly a massive hug in a bottle. The challenge or edge to this perfume comes in the shape of translucent, plastic opulence giving saffron/patchouli feel and a gentle rose undertone. I love it. I mean it’s a bit heavy, like being rear naked choked by a Care bear but it’s pretty wonderful. I don’t mean this is cutting edge perfumery or the best thing ever but as I said, I love how similar this is to something like The musc by Essential parfums but still different enough to own both. I think they switched Carbone and Ebene because the new Ebene smells much more like how I remember Carbone being.
I wish it lasted and projected. Feels like a wasted potential. It’s so good up close, but you’d have to sniff your arm all the time to catch any smell.
I have been using it for years.
Probably my favourite Amouage perfume. It’s a creamy composition with a hint of tobacco. Very unique, very sophisticated and cool.
It’s a creamy sandalwood and pear sauce, it’s aggressively beautiful. Never smelled anything like it
If you wanna smell rich and fabulous - this is it
I’m feeling so good when I wear this!
There’s a vanilla in here but it’s not the main focus. And it’s not very interesting…
It’s a hyper realistic scent, it evokes a walk through the park when lilacs are blooming. Beautiful, fresh and delicious.
I wouldn’t wear it in public, unless I attended some raves or similar events. It’s so unique, so green.
This is definitely one of the best man Amouages I have, and is at least it's as good as the other crème de la crème fragrances from the house like Interlude and Gold. As is often the way, the initial experience seemed bizarre and I wasn't sure, but a full wear had me completely hooked. Perfumery doesn't get better than this. Imitation Woman is also incredible (and insane). Long live the Chong era (sob).