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Botanical Essence No.1

Liz Earle

houdini

This is superb! To say Essence No.1 is a fresh citrus/vetiver is just not the entire story. I can't place my finger on quite what it is about No.1 that makes it so special? There's a more herbal feel over all and the citrus fruits are natural & beautiful but not even the main player. Essence No.1 is not just another fleeting lemony blast or a zesty mandarin orange it's a delicate balance which really does contain the lavender and possibly even some rose? It dries down to a vetiver kind of skin scent but again unlike anything I've smelled before, basically Liz Earle does what Jo Malone and Diptyque do with many of their fresh offering but with something better and more wearable, at least to my nose. I'm really impressed and tempted to add this to my collection as a perfect summer fragrance, which didn't last all that long but was acceptably average and hey I'm willing to let it off.

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10 years ago

Botanical Essence No.15

Liz Earle

houdini

I really love this warm, easy going fragrance which was an unusual find for me in John Lewis. I say unusual as it was a John Lewis 'home' and doesn't normally stock cosmetic or fragrance products but this was among the few that were in store. The opening is one of fresh spices, clove, cinnamon, pink pepper and a host of other lovely stuff which is never overbearing for a second. You're immediately immersed in a softly edged vanilla, milky sandalwood, and guaic. Quite stunning really. Lasts okay and dries down to a sweet vanilla, I was reluctant to buy because there was no price on the bottle and I figured it might be expensive but I would definitely wear this delicate scent and have my eye on it.

10 years ago

This is magic! Really excellent, and my favourite so far from this line, I'm a big Monotheme fan just a crime that I don't own more of them really? A supreme mixture of zesty orange opening which is so fresh and lovely all the while maturing to something quite earthy in the base...woody for sure vetiver and even a hint of patchouli. If you're thinking orange? Vetiver? Could this be like TdH? You couldn't be more wrong this is very different much juicier but not lacking in a full body. Again not the longest lasting but I can forgive it as it lasts a bit longer than the bergamot one and smells as good if not better than many other orange fragrances.

10 years ago

Monotheme fragrances have a special place in my heart, not only are they great value but they deliver the goods too. These orange bottle ones are not just one note, rather a perfect compliment to bring out the featured note. Here it's bergamot and a great representation it is, lovely fresh opening with a touch of woods and white florals, and even a tiny hint of vanilla in the drydown. This is not particularly long lasting, but you get a couple of hours of really well crafted fragrance.

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10 years ago

Fortis

Les Liquides Imaginaires

houdini

Yes okay we get it...Fortis smells like the divine and amazing Black Afgano. A couple of things to note, I think this has a slightly lighter, mellower, touch. Sometimes BA can go on hard and become a little overwhelming. Fortis is sweeter in the opening too and a bit more towards Carner Cuirs. I don't hold anything against Les Liquides Imaginaires for having a BA type scent, I mean we're not exactly falling over them are we? Not exactly like Aventus clones or yet another Oud/Rose combo is it? Most of the BA type scents are by Gaultieri himself so that doesn't count as a rip off either. I was happy with this one, smells exceptionally good, if not a little bit familiar.

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11 years ago

Bello Rabelo

Les Liquides Imaginaires

houdini

Usually a big fan of Deadidol's reviews but not in this case it would seem. Yes Bello Rabelo has it's faults, the longevity is not there and it's not as instantly great as HdP Marquis de Sade (which I do agree is similar) but hey it's trying to be something different. Namely a wine scent and for me this wine trio from Liquides Imaginaires are perfectly executed. I'd go as far to say Bello Rabelo opens like a very fine red wine and as it dries down to port and then almost brandy. The immortelle, labdanum are a pungent basis for this perfume but never live up to there full resinous potential. There's a rounded almost gourmand sweetness in the dry down from a hint of vanilla. The point is, Bello Rabelo is so close, it's knocking on the door of perfection for me. I love the smell, it's sublime and sophisticated but ultimately becomes a skin scent too quickly, which I can almost forgive it for. Worth a sniff for sure.

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11 years ago

Dom Rosa

Les Liquides Imaginaires

houdini

Wow! Liquides Imaginaires certainly know how to do wine notes. My first experience of this house was in Paris and I bought Bloody wood on the spot, Dom Rosa is another winner in my book. This is the most accurate champagne smell I've encountered it fizzes up your nose and is instantly recognizable. This is followed by soft pears & grapes and the delicate perfume of rose. Dom Rosa is stunning and I don't even like champagne! It's also quite feminine but I really don't care, it's fresh, original and I can't help but love it. If you like champagne (which is most people except me) then you should try this right now...it's brilliant! Not especially strong or long lasting...it's been about 3 hours and I can still smell it but hey I'd forgive this scent almost anything!

11 years ago

I like this! Love the concept, name and the smell although challenging is nothing short of brilliant. Burning Barbershop is especially for those of us who are fans of Slumberhouse I'd say. The notes listed here make sense in a pinaud powder, barbershop sense and that in mind are perhaps just detectable, underneath a heap of smokey remains. I could hazard a guess as to what this smokey note is, the first review below say Cade, so lets go with that. The opening of this fragrance was reminiscent of the recent Imaginary Authors A city on fire. This is because of the savoury quality of the smoke evoking a BBQ or something? Well, I got from Burning Barbershop, very specifically... Hot dog wieners. Not sauages in the general terms or gourmet sage & onion stuffed ones...not even 'pork' in all likelihood... but salty frankfurters. This association passes thankfully and burning barbershop becomes an intensely smoked, woody scent with a hint of mint. It's bonkers. Absolutely mad. The silage is insane at first but dies back to a relatively manageable hum. I like it, I'd much rather Jeke or Norne If I was going this dark but still worth a sniff if you like a smokey, full on experience. Lasts well.

11 years ago

Something made me think this was going to be a very lovely but straight forward Olibanum/Galbanum, fresh, fizzy, green incense...I don't know what gave me that impression because it has the classic signature of Andy Tauer daubed all over it. There's olibanum charm here for sure but Incense Flash is very dry, slightly dirty and full of dense woodsy character. This is kind of incense which possesses virtually no sweetness whatsoever. Like a dry amber accord, that old bookcase vibe but without the warmth and instead more oily with all the exotic charm of the Marrakesh markets he seems to cram into his scents. This is very good and right up my street so many incense fragrances disappoint me, not by being bad just the same tired fragrance I've smelled a million times. Tauer has created an interesting resinous scent here, more in the style of L'ADDM or Lonestar memories than Incense extreme (which I found a bit dull) so credit to him.

11 years ago

Wow! Lampblack certainly grabbed my attention with it's dirty, boozy (make that petroleum) like introduction. There's a sharpness there from the citrus but a dirty coal smell starting to develop which is perfect considering the name. Just to say I haven't sampled anything from Bruno Fazzolari to date but I'm drawn to fragrances with names like Lampblack & Room 237 (anything that references The Shining has to be worth a sniff right?) So top marks for creating intrigue before I've even sampled them. As it settles down on my skin it's all about that Cypriol oil adding a spicy earth to proceedings. However, the further drydown is lighter on it's feet and I can actually smell the grapefruit now and what is more of a vetiver sort of vibe. Interesting stuff, I thought it was going to be hellishly strong after that opening but is actually quite disappointing. I love the way in which it has mellowed now. So a really good scent then but I feel it will be one to divide fragrance fans.

11 years ago

Superb fragrance the quality and finesse shine through in this deep intricate tobacco scent. Immediately does smell like Pure Havane and there's no doubt about it not enough innovation to make me want this over the Mugler. What Naxos does is a more gourmand and accurate smelling tonka bean note and touches of honey, rather than the cherry of TM PH. It reminds me as much of Parfums de Marly Oajan as it does anything else. The fact that I own both the Mugler and the Marly not to mention Tobacco vanille which in terms of lasting power, there's no contest. I've really tried to be fair in my appraisal here because Xerjoff have grown on me as a house but this fragrance is redundant and has been executed better and far far cheaper elsewhere. All it needs is one element to make it pop out from the crowd and I'd give it props for that...unfortunately it doesn't have anything to offer.

11 years ago

A classic floral Chypre here, when you see Tuberose, Castoreum and leather listed in the notes you should hold on to your hats and this is precisely what this fragrance makes you do. The opening is a blinding stinky musk which emanates at the beginning but soon vanishes into a sweeter floral tuberose. This then dirties, offering up some very special, floral qualities for folks who love that sort of thing. The middle section is a stunning leathery, tuberose with hints of the animal, I haven't experienced the base properly yet as it hasn't dried all the way down but speaking from experience of this kind of scent it will last FOREVER! When it finally does settle right back I predict any floral sweetness will dissipate leaving behind a musky castoreum. Brilliant, classical stuff again, just not something I would wear, who knows maybe one day I will change my mind?

11 years ago

Yes I can see the resemblance of sharper citrus, lemon & bergamot mixing with other fruit and berries smells in here to create a not far off pineapple type smell. However, having tried many Aventus clones or fragrances that truly have the same Pineapple note (Mazzzolari Nero) I have to say this isn't one of those. Not easily mistaken for Aventus in my opinion and as someone who is a great believer in the 'reminds me of...' option on here, I'm usually quick to concede that the majority of Fragranticans know better than me. However, I think in this case I think 65 Yes' is strongly misleading, especially as Cedrat Boise dries down and becomes less and less like the Creed at all. So what is it like? Well, after the fruity opening recedes it becomes a really nice masculine woody scent of cedar but upon a chunky base of patchouli and even a hint of vanilla just rounding everything out into a smooth, warm, feel good scent. I like it, lasts pretty well and smells manly enough, however the dry down does remind me quite heavily of a deodorant I had in the 90's. That's not a bad thing really but I'm not mad about this scent at the same time. I think it deserves the love it gets, just not for me.

11 years ago

I've been waiting to try this for a long time now and having been disappointed by Byredo so far I was starting to think this one might be overrated. Well I finally got my nose on it and I can tell you Pulp is fantastic! The opening is very, very intense sweet, jammy and definitely fitting of the name pulp. Then as it dries down becomes less tart with berries and more of a watery fig and some of that exotic floral, Tiare flower which I think makes this fragrance. Beautiful and exotic Byredo have struck upon something really good here, I want a bottle.

11 years ago

Deadidol nails the review below perfectly. Just to echo those sentiments about Aventus being a perfume which has made the pineapple note famous and therefore a comparison we can't help but draw. Nero is more effervescent, fizzing out of the bottle and right into your face with a sharper citrus feel, evoking a lemonade ice lolly or sherbet fizz. There's definitely more focus on the pineapple and berries here and less on woods and crucially... no smoke. To give Creed and Mazzolari some credit I think this is a very masculine smell and this one is of good quality and something is coming through in Nero to tone down the fruit. This release is relatively redundant to me as I have Aventus and clones but it maybe for someone who likes the pineapple of Aventus without the birch smoke? I remarked this was quality stuff but unfortunately it doesn't last.

11 years ago

My word! This stuff is absolutely stunning! Yes, it's feminine as it gets but still somehow palatable. The opening is a tropically sweet, exotic, fruit floral which mellows into more of a rounded vanilla as it settles. This has to be the conspiracy of orange blossom fruity and uplifting without the usual waxiness and the powder and character of delicate iris both of which are present. There's a hinted at chunkiness of patchouli too as it dries down but largely it's that vanilla and sandalwood and iris left at the base. It vaguely reminds me of a exotic, femme florientals the likes of a Black orchid but much softer, warmer and although sweet, still less cloying. It's honestly not for me to wear but I really enjoyed the sweet opening.

11 years ago

I'd never sampled a Byredo until a couple of weeks ago and I have to say I'm not impressed with the three I've tried. This is categorized in the 'mystic wood' section. A disappearing act the french might call 'Bois de santal secrète' perhaps? I usually like these fragrances, I can site two (and frequently do) which I love... Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin and Xerjoff Ivory Route but even these seem loud in comparison to this very, very, subtle fragrance. Gypsy water is a name with so much promise but sadly it doesn't deliver on it. The opening is a squeeze of lemon and pine needles then almost immediately 'shhhhushed' by vanilla and very uninspiring sandalwood. I say uninspiring because it seems to lean firmly towards creamy rather than spicy and with vanilla already lowdown, just serves to make this snug & cozy straight away. The freshness and 'watery' nature which may have been deliberate due to the name is juxtaposed against the softest base and for me doesn't work. It's too weak and barely detectable on my skin in minutes. Nothing to hate about the smell as such just nothing of it...not impressed.

11 years ago

I have to be firm and say I don't like this, nothing especially wrong with it but I see Comme des Garcon as futuristic, quirky scent trailblazers. Dot seems to have all the quirk but is seriously lacking in the usual innovative substance. I genuinely don't like everything from CdG nor do I think they are consistently good performers in strength or longevity but what I loved about them was their individuality and this just seems a bit of a half arsed effort. Seems sad that I would get so serious about such a lightweight of a fragrance, Dot is a flouncy fruity floral that isn't quite sure what fruits or flowers it is derived from? The shapeless, blobby bottle is about as about as focused and refined as the perfume inside. More feminine than anything and I'm sure ladies out there could find similar perfume aimed at young teens or celebrity fodder. I'm only disappointed and gave it a Dislike because it's CdG and I (perhaps unfairly?) expect more from them. Otherwise the smell is 'blah' and it doesn't last very long...that's all I can tell you.

11 years ago

Dear oh dear! The reformulation horrors were all true. I take back what I said about YouTube reviewer the Fragrance apprentice when I sat through his diatribe and figured he was overacting... and I still think he was to some extent. I never owned a bottle of the original myself but my dad had it, and I'm very familiar with the smell. This is quite pitiful really, it's still desperately trying to cling onto its former glory as there's a remnant of the cypress, cinnamon and woods in there but it's missing all the manly stuff and the oakmoss and leather which made it a true great. Now sadly it starts of like a bitter lemony booze (limoncello) then a powdery poof of something clean and soapy then cinnamon and very subdued woods in the drydown. Oh well I guess I had to see/smell for myself, I'm glad it was cheap. I'm not offended by it by any means and will persevere and see what it's like on subsequent wears but I doubt my opinion will change much. Is Italian Cypress a viable alternative to getting some of that greatness from the original, at the price point you'd perhaps say no but no doubt the Tom Ford smells great. My main gripe is that the longevity is not that good either...so where is my fix going to come from? Oh speaking of longevity, Z14 has died back to almost nothing already so I don't figure the longevity to be too good. Shame. Update: Actually some of the soapy, cleaner, awfulness of the opening has subsided and there's some very weak tones in the base, reminiscent of the more masculine oakmoss and woods I was missing. Definitely smells better now it's dried right down.

11 years ago

Yeah can't really add much to the reviews here other than Yuquawam is far less annoyingly in your face than other TL dopplegangers like Golden boy. I can definitely tell the difference between this and Tuscan leather too, Yuqawam is sweeter, certainly in the opening and has a far more pronounced raspberry note. It's rich and opulent and all the lovely things this sort of fragrance is but without as much of the dirt. This is what we want though, 'Leather' isn't it? TL has it and I would argue Clive Christian C has even more. The saving grace of Yuquawam is that it's inherently more wearable everyday than a TL or CcC because to me at least it has less of the special occasion about it. Really good again from Rasasi, I'll be wearing mine for sure.

11 years ago

Few perfumes hit you this hard with petitgrain in the opening, fizzy and citrus like but lacking in any sort of yesty refreshment. As Mister Marvelous settles down a bit it does get slightly pissy I'm afraid, but hey I can deal with that as I sort of find it interesting when it's not too dominant. I think the neroli coming through gives it a saving lift but the base is a peppery cedar which again doesn't help with the overall vibe of this perfume. Not something I'd wear I'm afraid, Byredo aren't doing particularly well in my favour being a house I hadn't tried until now. I don't hate it but put it this way, we can't talk longevity I'm afraid, because it got scrubbed.

11 years ago

Opens with almost cream soda like playful vanilla which soon dissipates to reveal a throbbing Amber core. The sweetness retreats too which is welcome and it becomes much more dusty, and woody after a sweet couple of hours. There could even be a hint of patchouli earthying up the drydown but make no mistake this is an amber dominant fragrance of the highest quality and lasting power. Really, really good stuff for Orlov and I only applied a tiny amount and it lasted for hours. I rate flame of Gold but does it have enough to set it apart from other high quality ambers? That's for you to decide....I'm saying it's worth a sniff and was a pleasure to wear for me.

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11 years ago

Hermann À Mes Côtés Me Paraissait Une Ombre

Etat Libre d'Orange

houdini

Just to say I think the reviewer below was smelling something different to me, I get no rose or patchouli in here? I'm a fan of Ambroxan for the record, although obvious and seemingly flavour of the month at the moment, it's a versatile base for fragrances to go in any direction. It can be clean and masculine, the base for a citrus/aquatic (as it is here) or even warming, underneath more oriental notes. I'm also a fan of ELDO because of the quirk they seem to get into most of their creations, but in all honesty, this is less unique. Herman opens with a big clean fruity/floral vibe and a generic aquatic type feel. It's kinda exaggerated in the opening which is obviously what the house were going for but I'm afraid after that it's a little flat, fading back to a nice fresh skin scent. Personally I like it, My girlfriend liked it too, commenting that it's something she would wear, rather than me and I think she's right there. It seems to last okay but very low in the mix, which after quite a loud and pronounced opening, seems disappointing but perhaps isn't? The thing with ELDO fragrances is that there's always a jarring note or a twist in the tale and unfortunately, I was waiting and it just didn't come. I'm still somehow satisfied with Herman...in it's rawest essence I like the smell...simple.

11 years ago

I can only imagine it must be the 'Fig tree' note in here which makes Sandalo Nobile open so much like a fresh wonderful fruity smell, I can literally feel the fibrous innards as the juicy flesh is torn open. I think it's the most accurate and beautiful fig note I've ever smelled, it's also reminiscent of a real plum, not the jammy sweetness we think of as 'plum like' in perfumery, plum Japonais or CdG Floriental etc...this is a genuine green smell, more like that of Philosykos. Then proceedings start to get powdery, a lovely Iris note backed with creamy sandalwood but hints of the fig in there too. I think this fragrance has wonderfully complimentary ingredients but something doesn't quite ring true about it for me? I'm not sure if I think it's a bit too feminine for me or that it's just too clean, there's not enough dirt in here for my liking? Still a great fragrance if not just for that opening...not something I'd wear but totally worth checking out for sure. Update: 23/01/23 It's interesting when I look back on reviews like this, it's usually to say that I was wrong for being so down on a fragrance, but in this instance I'd say I don't really have the same enthusiasm I clearly had back in the mists of 2016. I still like the opening but it's kinda more of the coconut facet of fig leaf that I get rather than the lush greenery of fig flesh now. The body is a musky, creamy sandalwood which is very pleasant clearly well crafted but does little to excite me. So, My feelings have ended up being largely similar.

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11 years ago