Comparisons to Jubilation XXV (I've seen a couple below) are unfounded really, other than Londinium containing notes of berries and resin. The truer comparison came to me pretty much instantly. Despite thinking I have a fairly vast knowledge of fragrances now I often go completely blank when I try things in store. What usually happens is that I know a scent smells familiar but can't place it right away. Londinium however was instant...'squirt'...."Spicebomb?...No...Gucci PHII!" That's it folks Londinium is a sparkling thick, berry like, sweet spiced opening but with all the metallic tea and everything from PHII but definitely hyped up. Londinium is more boozy and not as musky and aloof as the Gucci but no where near as blatant and sledgehammer like as Spicebomb, It's a really good balance. However, the fact that I own both of the comparison scents is slightly off putting but that's not to say Londinium doesn't have it's own unique charms and allure because it definitely does. Lasting power was average to pretty good and the fruity top notes stayed strong for several hours which is a big plus.
EOh snap!!! I'm in love big time with this fragrance. I always foolishly overlook Molton Brown as a 'serious' fragrance contender but this is incredible stuff. As soon as I smelled the stunning opening I was like "Wow! Oud!" Not what I was expecting at the price point, until I realised this one is more pricey than the others in this range and it makes sense too, the quality is evident immediately. Yeah anyway is a kind of spice bizarre of Oud, sandalwood, with saffron coming on stronger and stronger as it settles, heady almost plasticky, earthiness The saffron is almost too much even for me and it's one of my favourite ingredients. Seriously the balance in Shisur is just right making it potent and smooth at the same time. I've smelled a few fragrances similar to this before but nothing quite the same, I'm a total sucker for Oud and saffron, then sandalwood and spices, put them all together and basically I'm happy, certainly in this context the Oud & Saffron smells quite different to even one of my big favourites MFK Oud. Superb Molton Brown! Well done and no doubt I will have to get this fragrance it is immense!!! I don't even have to wait for it to drydown to know it will take me on a journey of hedonistic, woody pleasure. Take me now Shisur I'm all yours! Update: as predicted the saffron smooths out and gets silkier, the Oud and sandalwood create a warm, sweet, humming bed of loveliness. I think I'm going to get this. It isn't cheap £95 for 50mls but I'm enjoying it so much I don't think I can pass it up? Longevity is good but it's a very subtle skin scent, but I'm more than happy with the performance. The testers I tried had some really poor sprayers but the actual bottle is nice looking and the TDH style twisting lock sprayer is an innovative and nice touch (providing you get one that functions correctly!) from Molton Brown adding value to what is quality scent already but perhaps needs that perception of quality to achieve such a price. Although having said that the rest of the line are in these bottles and some are only £65...anyway nevermind.
Not much to say about this one, except for that it's a very nice vetiver. Simple, incredibly smooth and palatable, perfect scent for summer with the fresh uplifting hint of citrus & greens in the opening giving way to a truly clean vetiver. There's a dash of earth in there too from some moss, Monotheme don't disappoint, producing yet again, a really decent fragrance. There's actually been a packaging change which usually means a reformulation, I actually got the opportunity to try both versions and I have to say they are both really nice. One lasted longer than the other, unfortunately I got my arms mixed up and I don't know which one was which? The older formula (bottle & box pictured here) or the newer version. (dark green bottle) Lasting power is a problem across the board for Monotheme but they are so well priced and great smelling that I really don't care if they only last a couple of hours. I know some pricier vetivers that are nice from Jo Malone or Diptyque that don't last either, so why not get this instead? If you like vetiver I'd check out Vetiver Bourbon, it isn't quite up there with Guerlain or Tom Ford but a worthy purchase for sure.
Okay...So I get the 'smells like Raghba' or '24 Gold' but that is but a tiny part of the story. I cannot understand the criticism waged against this great fragrance? The opening is a smokey, dense guaic wood and creamy sandalwood which doesn't quit, it's peppered and spicy. This scent to me comes off as more of an incense based thing than anything else. Sure there's that sugar sweet Arabic tone to the whole composition but all in all much less cloying than the original Raghba or indeed 24 Gold. Intense wood actually delivers more promise of woodiness than 24 Gold Oud edition did and I was even pleased with that one. I'm so glad I didn't get the original Raghba (although very nice) as I felt I had that base well and truly covered with the Scent Story fragrances I own. Intense wood on the other hand is a valued fragrance in my arsenal. Last well on my skin and there's enough of everything else going on to counter the cloying sweetness...at this price you can't complain, it's a real winner this juice.
I took a huge punt on Tobacco blaze considering it's fairly pricey but still cheap for the quality compared to say...Tom Ford. Oh while we are on the subject I decided to get this Yuqawam as apposed to the much talked about on here Tuscan Leather one, because I wanted to be surprised by the smell and despite reading reviews beforehand, Tobacco Blaze has certainly done that! I honestly can't say I'm convinced by this yet but what it has delivered is a interesting but not totally unique experience. The opening is a dark, ashy sort of affair which is dry and unpleasant like a burnt tobacco. Lingering only a molecule or two underneath this vail of ash is a poofy, lighthearted fruit affair which opens like passion fruit and soon dries to an unmistakable creamy apricot yogurt smell. This is all well and good but then Tobacco blaze starts to get more powdery leather with floral hints just peeping through. The ash like, spiced wood smell reminds me of ELDO Jasmine et cigarette and a patchouli dry note (which reminds me of that rough, recycled type paper you got in primary school...was it called sugar paper?) with the apricot note persisting throughout. My main complaint with this fragrance is...Did smokey and apricots every have to meet? Really? The jury is still deliberating, overall I'm happy with the purchase because It's a talking point of a fragrance and part of a family of scents I like very much. Everything said Tobacco blaze is a success of a blind buy and performance & silage are very good, the presentation is fantastic. I've got a feeling this one will grow on me.
I've been waiting ages to try this and that anticipation has turned to disappointment upon trying. Is Lancôme Autre Oud a very opulent and nice smelling dark woody, Oud rose with earthy hints of saffron, patchouli and smooth resins??? Well yes it is...and by far not the worst I've tried in fact it's quite lovely but nothing to set it apart by the same rule. I had kinda hoped it was more like Rose d'arabie or Xerjoff's 'more than words' and then I would've definitely purchased as the amazing flacon tipped me over the edge. High quality, lasts forever and smells really good but this sort of fragrance has to have the most minor of tweaks, that lightness of touch to elevate it and make it world class. Thinking in cookery terms that next level from an already superior dish to something 2-3 mitchelin star level. I had expected that from this hearing all the positive reviews and in my humble opinion it doesn't deliver making it just another Oud rose if not a very lovely one.
Dear, oh Dear! Just when I thought Paul Smith had sorted his act out fragrance wise, he releases this banal, drivel of a scent. I thought getting in the perfumer he did on Portrait would spark a glut of cool, interesting releases...but sadly not. Paul Smith Essential is a soaped up, messy composition which to me is stingy and harsh in the opening and for a good hour or two before a vaguely more pleasant drydown. The effect is clean and not dissimilar to Gucci's excuses for a men's line...but somehow cheaper smelling. Not a bad move I suppose, because men will continue to buy these fragrances and I will continue to moan about them, inevitable really? Like the movement of the planets or the tides...this was set in motion long before I was around and it's sure to go on long after I'm gone. Sorry to be so down on this fragrance, I expect if it was a new release from an unknown house I wouldn't be so hard on it. I just expect someone as creative as Paul Smith to strive for more when associating his name with a fragrance. Probably still sells and I expect that's why he's the millionaire designer and I'm some faceless internet gimp, moaning about scented water. Still... Worst fragrance ever.
Just because this isn't typical of a sandalwood perfume, doesn't mean it doesn't smell like sandalwood, because it does. The sandalwood manifests itself differently here, a very laid back cologne approach with aromatic woods and gentle spicing. Generally its calming lavender and clean vetiver with a hinted at, creamy wooden heart which is more soapy than anything else. I like it but can't say it's the most exciting or well composed example of the Sandalwood genre. The performance was pretty dire too and was all but gone far too quickly.
Have Calvin Klein recaptured the spirit and success of the 90's CK One with CK2...? Well not quite but perhaps partially? I acquired a sample of another new(ish) fragrance on the same day and I have to say CK2 out did it massively. It's quite the understated, metro sexual (rather than unisex) juice. CK2 has an opening of freshness and green qualities which take it to new levels, truly the freshness of this fragrance is something to behold. It doesn't feel chemical or harsh or aquatic like, just very very fresh. It didn't annoy me or become cloying, just sits low and hums naturally if slightly femininely. I don't say this as a criticism, others would see it as a perfectly androgynous entity but I get a slightly translucent, ladylike, summer scent when it's settled. The level of pretentiousness is in danger of disappearing up it's own backside, when we talk about 'Pebble notes' but I can forgive them in this case as I can get the association. I wish I got the wasabi but sadly I just don't. However, there is some spicing here but very subtle and more reminiscent of a very, very, light incense maybe something like moschino Forever(+ Forever sailing)? The base is woody for sure, clean vetiver and more predominantly as it dries down, a warmer, powdered feel emerges I detect the orris root but something more associated with a few recent releases. Can you guess? Well it's ambroxan and in the same way that these minimalist creations have been dividing opinion, CK2 has transformed over the course of a few hours from a one thing into another. I like it, I have to say, you'd go a long way to find something fresher, especially in the opening. It's not groundbreaking but comes along at a time where there's many worse, fresh fragrances to choose from. Lasting power was average and projects lighty but maybe more than I expected for such a translucent fragrance. The bottle and campaign are innovative enough but ultimately you've seen it all before. Bravery should be rewarded and if this fragrance was as weird as the notes suggested, I would more than willing to praise it. However, everything said I would wear this happily in summer and smell very nice, and that is it's purpose. Update: 22/07/21 I actually bought this. I got it knockdown price. I'm fascinated by the CK aesthetic, pebble note bs and all! There's a touch of Joy to everything they make, one might make the assumption that they just just bang stuff out there, flanker after flanker but Calvin Klein consider their releases more than many other brands, guaranteed!!! So it's a sparse structure pushed out with transparent aroma-chemicallyness(TM) BUT I'm partial to a bit of that. This has a perceptible fresh top, a definite but at the same time nondescript floralcy and then a hint of warmth in the base, it's not irritating cotton candy or BR540 but there's a certain hiding sweetness that is clearly derivative but is so mild in the mix it works unlike all the saccharine sweet monstrosities of modern designer releases. Won't blow your socks of but functional for summer heat and smells pretty good.
Unfortunately the tester I managed to locate a few weeks back had been broken the previous day according to the SA. Frustratingly although the bottle was full I only managed to eek out a minuscule amount of fragrance. I can't base a review on it unfortunately but what I deduced was a complex scent which definitely has elements of the original. The main thing I got was a spicy, white floral thing with a woody base, kind of interesting in the way Icon was. I will update when I get a proper sniff and some samples to wear.
Finally I've found a tester that worked, I was beginning to think I was cursed and doomed to never actually find a properly working tester or samples but luckily I found both. As I suspected from my first review this is a complex beast, mainly comprised of a warm but synthetic Oud accord which is surrounded by opulent earthy saffron, musk and a fresher peppery accord from the original Icon. I genuinely think it's clever the way Absolute still has this nod to Icon while being a totally different fragrance in many ways and a new direction for Dunhill a brand I already like. Lasts okay on me but not great thing is it just smells right up my street in terms of slightly Arabian in flavour with the synthetic vulgarity of Montale then with the modern, western elements of a masculine fragrance. My only minor criticism is the price and I'm not normally someone to quibble about such things but £90 is a little steep. Having said that I will probably still get it and the factor that pushes me over the edge is the wel crafted bottle. What a fantastic design in either silver or gold.
I think 'powdery notes' is the best way to describe the poofy opening of this fragrance but then almost immediately turning to a white chocolate vibe. I must say I really, really like this subtle gourmand approach. As Flower L'Elixir settles though it's much more of a vanilla and deep caramel than the hint of berries and maybe something similar to orris in the opening? I like it...A straight up creamy, sweet fragrance which has a very light touch, which is a good achievement in that it isn't cloying but bad in terms of longevity and scent trail, both of which are very fleeting. I don't try 'feminine fragrances' (let me clarify...fragrances marketed towards women with notes typically I don't enjoy.) as often as perhaps I should but I do remember trying the original Flower and it was nothing nearly as enjoyable as this change of direction. Worth checking out for gourmand fans just let down by a lack of staying power.
What a sensation this fragrance is! I have to say I've very impressed and wasn't expecting to be so taken with a fragrance I immediately deemed to be 'Too feminine' just from looking at the name and the little card my sample came on. The truth is Rose Pompon is a fresh, breeze of loveliness and in actual fact not too rosy. The rose note is pride of place of course but sits on a thirst quenching and metallic background and foreground of palette cleansing, cool notes allowing the warmer rose to be suspended in and amoungst them. The opening is instantly berry like and that blackcurrant note doesn't give way to jammy raspberry but becomes greener and more metallic seeming extremely natural in the process. This works fantastically well with a light musky, uplifting feel all around and reminds me at times of Amouage Lyric man, with very clean and consise vibes. Rose Pompon doesn't quite reach the heights of lyric for me and if I'm honest dries to a slightly more powdery version of that opening but still very, very nice indeed and something I'd have no trouble wearing. I didn't apply a great deal and performance has been okay so far but difficult to judge, I'd say it's on the lighter end of the spectrum. Reminds me of an old school teacher I had when I was a kid too, strange how that association just popped into my head, she obviously wore something similar. I'd have to say this is not your typical rose scent, we'll certainly not the deep oud/rose bombs I've become accustomed to sampling and it's great to appreciate rose in a different context. Rose pompon delivered for me I actually love this scent and I'd love it on a woman even more...hats off to Annick Goutal.
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that Marc Jacobs is a brand that is marketed more toward women than men. I say this because there's only one dedicated 'Men's' fragrance which has been out for some years now and always seems to be relegated to the bottom shelf in department stores. Women (well the few I know) seem to display a better knowledge of the brand, and I've often wondered why? Perhaps the other products or feminine perfumes are really good? (I pondered...) Because some of the unisex 'splashes' I've tried smell really quite good but don't last due to rubbish concentration and being light by nature. (same story with for men) I actually like a innovative bit of design and the chintzy handbag look of the bottle, serves to appeal to another accessory women love...shrewd. I actually really dig the colour of the bottle too, that deep teal is visually appealing to me. However, the scent itself is not something I'd recommend due to the fact I see this as a slightly second rate perfume in the mould of Tom Ford Black Orchid. Doesn't quite have the mystery of BO even, the top notes are an exotically sweet cocktail of tart, plummy berries and exotic flowers (I'm surprised there's non listed? although could be the orris/jasmine sambac combo?) which is actually really pleasant and although too feminine for me, I like it. The problem is this lasts for all of about 5 mins before that same fruity smell becomes cloying and a bit nauseating to tell the truth. This is made worse by that Black orchid association, notes of thick chocolaty patchouli and a powdered amber base just make this thick and stodgy. The mid stage of this scent is really powdery orris/amber which coupled with the top notes was a slightly dizzying and painful wear for me. Okay this is the perpective of a man and as such no authority on women's fragrance but I do occasionally dip in when something takes my fancy or in this case I was given samples. Marc Jacobs Decedence is worth a try but I honestly didn't think it was anything special...good job the performance was average and washed off quite easily.
I hate to say this, and especially as the first review but I was disappointed with this release from Cerruti. I blind bought as it was cheap, which was another oddity. A fragrance so new it wasn't even on Fragrantica nor did it have a tester (in the store I went to) and yet was already reduced in the bargain bin? Bizarre!!?!?! This is the fragrance equivalent of a straight to DVD movie and unfortunately it smells that way too. It reminds me of the new line of Gucci fragrances with a touch of a hand-cream type vibe, which I hate! Opens with citrus/bergamot and then enters a powdered, synthetic,'clean' feel which could maybe account for a soapy cardamom spice? There is a touch of lavender and aquatic sebreeze maybe? I don't get a vetiver base from it either, 1881 Sport is just a bit of a mess. Basically if you are expecting (like I was) a delivery of the notes listed here with the classy touch of the original Cerruti 1881 then prepare to be disappointed. This is a bland affair, generic and just not good enough. I hate to be so negative but I smelled it before and it wasn't inspiring the first time. Performance is actually very good, which will be good news for those young men going out on the town leaving choking clouds in their wake but not for the average user who won't care how long it lasts as I guarantee you'll be sick of it within an hour. I'm being hard on this because my expectations were high (not that high but hey) and it still didn't measure up. The smell isn't awful and not 'Bad' as such but I had to vote dislike because I can't put up with this kind of release anymore. The main reason I'm so hard on 1881 Sport is because I foolishly blind bought it, like an idiot! (remember there was no tester) and I've just no room for this kind of mediocrity in my wardrobe.
This is yet another amazing and unique smelling perfume. There's no messing around here, the name perfectly suits what this is, a dark earthy and sensual fragrance. The noise my girlfriend made upon sniffing this was almost one of arousal and there's me thinking it might be a bit too strange for her. The opening is a spicy dense ebony woods and oud with non of that medicinal, ambery sensibility just dank, hardcore, strength. There's a hint of the natural greenness from vetiver, papyrus and patchouli but nothing strong enough to dominate the incense wood of the base. Whatever else is in Black ebony conspires to make yet another unique signature from this house, even the patchouli in this which is earthy yes but somehow is transformed in this context into something I haven't smelled before. Bella Bellissima could never be accused of lacking innovation and this is another wonderful example. Brilliant!!!
I enjoy this fragrance for what it is, an east does west, not quite fresh, I'd say more trying to be 'fresh' but with a heavy core. The notes are blended into obscurity but in a good way, a definite opening of citrus which becomes more orange like as the fragrance settles. I'm not sure what pepper smells like in Madagascar but it certainly isn't what I'm used to and there's no sharp spice in here, Chastity is smooth and rounded out. Not quite sure what it reminds me of? I wanted to say more balsamic brews like Scent Story 24 or Loewe Solo...but it's better and more appealing to me than either of those. There probably is patchouli in here bulking up the base and a definite musk, I have to say I really like it and I'm impressed with the few Arabic houses I've sampled recently. Rasasi probably making the most westernized, mainstream type scents but they still have an eastern grandeur to them. The longevity is good and the projection light but meaningful.
Well I feel privileged to be the first reviewer of this scent because it exudes a confident charm. The fact that Francis Kurkdjian is a collaborator is not surprising at all because this has the mark of MFK style perfumes like APOM or Amyris. I'm very suprised there's no white florals listed in the notes here because after a gorgeously fresh opening of citruses and a hint of ginger there's a core of pure orange blossom/neroli. These elements are tempered very well indeed because usually not my cup of tea I find them elegant and respectfully handled. I can see how the soapy spice of cardamom could be a big player in the overall sensation the fragrance gives. Additionally the boost of that waxy floral core serves to prolong the bitter citrus top note of grapefruit making the freshness not a brief flirtation but a more lasting affair. The drydown is warmer too, compared to something in a similar vein...let's say Mugler Cologne and that is perhaps some of that amber coming through? I really can't say for sure but it definitely behaves better on my skin that many seemingly similar fragrances. I'm wearing it today and find it massively enjoyable even more so than the occasional dip into MFK samples. Carven L'eau Intense strikes up a really good balance and that to me is what makes a good fragrance, even when it contains less of my favourite notes. Longevity I can tell already is going to be fairly good for such a delicate scent, especially when it gets on clothes. (I suppose that's not really saying much as most things last on clothing but you know what I mean.) I'm singing L'eau Intense's praises then and about time because I wasn't that keen on the last two revamped releases. This one is a must try and (I'm assuming?) a cheaper alternative for MFK fans.
Hard to pick out the notes in this one, but sandalwood is definitely the basis for this very pleasant creamy fragrance. The opening is a modern smell citrus which does have a hint of pepper but that's more spice from the sandalwood rather than being anything like the original bang. Another noticable difference is that BB lasts quite a while if retreating to a mellow skin scent quickly, I can still smell it a good 6 hours later. I actually really like this as I do with the original but I'm always reluctant to buy because of the poor longevity but in terms of creativity this one is just as innovative and likeable as the pepper bomb. I might well add this to my collection.
A very soft floral vanilla, which in my opinion is just a little too feminine for me to wear and I reckon I have a pretty high tolerance for the soft, sweet and even at times peachy. The opening is a lucious Amber and hints of exotic flowers and some clean white florals, it settles to more of a caramel, vanilla a kind of gourmand Amber. To my nose a very lovely fragrance and in keeping with the excellent releases from this house if you are looking for a vanilla fragrance with very soft edges and great performance then it's worth checking out, just not for method one.
Wow! Posting this review now and looking at Endymions comment I thought exactly the same...surely the original Issey is as fresh as it gets and to some just as irritating. Yeah so my thoughts on a fresh version are...is it going to be one of those watery, cucumber and kiwi summer editions all packaged up in yet another tired new flanker. I was pleasantly surprised though when I smelled it, discovering a nicely nuanced, fresh but masculine addition to the range. Opens with bitter citruses and it almost has something rough of vetiver or oakmoss to it and a peppery twang which rules it out of being just another boring aquatic or really smelling like the Original L'eau d'Issey. It undoubtedly has that DNA but not in anywhere near as full effect as you'd expect. So 'Fraiche' is not the most suitable name for this one it dries down quite earthy on my skin but still with a long lived citrus. In fact the longevity was very very good indeed and is still clinging to clothes days later. I like this outing from IM it's not bad at all and worth consideration among many mundane fresh fragrances like this around.
I definitely tried this perfume before I'm sure of it, there's so many 212 Flankers now it's a little hard to keep track. If you wanted to create a Sexy version of 212 this would certainly be how you'd go about it, much warmer than the original and a generally sweeter, more cozy, oriental feel to the whole thing. Upon re-sampling recently, It reminded me of fragrance flankers like Hot Water, or the older Xeryus Rouge but still with those synthetic and green tones of the original poking through. The overall feel though is one of creamy vanilla, musk, amber and spiced woods which oddly retains quite a masculine demeanor throughout. It's quite a throw away flanker and truly nothing special but I really like it, the same way I did the original in the late 90's. I didn't really pay much attention to the performance but that tells me it can't have been anything remarkable. If I see it marked down in price I'd buy 212 Sexy Men as it's typical of something I might reach for when I'm not sure what to wear.
I have to give it a 'like' because it's not bad...but what is Parisian break? I'd say uber generic piffle. It's mainly Ambroxan to my nose, there's a ton of citrus and sage and its minty too, which reminds me of Invictus/Eros/some Gucci blah...and the recent Sauvage. For all its powdered, homogeneousness (yeah yeah you won't find that in any dictionaries.) it does have something slightly masculine in there could be some vetiver? Not that it's very evident, certainly not worthy of being the top of the vote notes...bizarre. Like I said it's not bad but really doesn't excite me and is even a touch incipid after a while but hey it lasts very well, not that it matters.
Opens with a lushious, sharp, green texture which is fresh and definitely smells of poppy, a floral smell I'm actually familiar with. It's not particularly pleasant or sweet but very naturally, sappy and slightly metallic I also detect a hint of resin in here perhaps galbanum seeing as it's a lasting fresh, greenness. Throughout Piment Brulant there's a strength from that pimento at the back, peppered heat in all its glory and a definite hint of that earthy, bitter-sweet Cocoa which works as perfectly in this perfume as it does in a chocolate & chili dessert. As it dries down this becomes stronger and more and more what the fragrance is all about, really feels like it might burn your nose if you sniff it for too long. I think the desired effect is similar to others from this perfumer, a real challenge to the senses, coupled with something I actually enjoy wearing, like Timbuktu. I think Bertrand Duchaufour great and although this isn't my favourite of his work I can't help but appreciate the craft. I think if you like green openings coupled with very spicy drydowns but at the same time quite weak, translucent, skin scents....then I'd recommend this one. Not a big projector and with average lasting power Piment Brulent was an enjoyable fragrance for me.
I took the name as a literal description of the ingredients and was ready to comment that the orris root has a very violet like quality...well turns out judging by the notes here there's violet in there too, not a surprise. I have to say it opens with more of the sandalwood oddly, I got a very nice smooth milky quality with iris and a hint of earth. As Orris & sandalwood settles and drys down becomes much more floral powder than spicy woods, delivering everything I expected from this fragrance. So it's good but not mind blowing, I like the simple compositions Jo Malone has released of late, especially when the notes complement each other so well, and even if it's something I don't particularly like. Suffers slightly from the old Jo Malone longevity issues, even in its Cologne Intense concentration...but it's not bad, lasts several hours but sits low due to the nature of this scent. Worth a sniff I think.